IN THE KITCHEN WITH Neil Jewell

Neil is hunched over the stainless-steel pass, deep in thought. He’s dressed in his customary striped apron, what looks like one of those buffs contestants wear on his head, army-green shorts, blue ankle socks with a red lobster-print worn over compression stockings, and a pair of black chefs’ clogs. Two pencils are tucked behind his right ear and another is clutched in his hand as he stares intently at a piece of paper. “I’m living dangerously,” he says. “I’ve decided to take the vegan ribollita off the menu and add a soft-baked celeriac salad with a savoury granola and confit quail. I’m also taking the porridge off and doing a pearl barley risotto cooked in vegetable stock with peas, broad beans, sweet pickled fennel, roast