Gourmet Traveller

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NSW

SMALL TOWN

4/41 Wason St, Milton

Neighbourly is the operative term at the new south-coast venue from the St Isidore team. Due to open as the first spring shoots appear, Small Town, a 20-seater just off Milton’s main drag, sees the team refocusing on the simple things. “We never intended for St Isidore to be a special-occasion place,” says co-owner Jo Thomas. “Here we’ll be distilling the dining experience to good wine and simple, delicious food. More fun. More concise.” Inside, the space is bright and warm, with marble and timber accents, and food is stripped back and coastal. Expect mud crab with rice, curry leaves and fried garlic, and snacks such as sea urchin roe on nettle crackers. Sasha Siljanovic’s wine list, meanwhile, ramps up the by-the-glass options with an emphasis on thirst-quenchers from small producers, plus a few classics.

What to order: A vin de soif-style cinsault from South African maker Testalonga. And there are always longnecks of Melbourne Bitter.

SUPERNATURAL

9 Bay Ln, Byron Bay, (02) 6680 9606, supernaturalcellars.com.au

Scrawled on the wall of Byron’s first natural wine bar are three rules: eat with your

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