THE TWIST

Once you enter La Pícara’s doors, you’re bound to bump into Isabel Calvo. Long, tall Calvo, the Spanish restaurant’s big boss (underlined by her business card that says “The Boss”) is a whirling dervish of energy, swirling and swinging along the bar, kitchen, dining area, and to every table. Salvo makes it a point to try and meet all her diners, checking if they’re well taken care of and often to converse—sometimes in the local vernacular. The latter catches many off-guard, especially since