BURGUNDY

CHABLIS

98 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018 Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). While the nose on this wine has a rich sense of creaminess and chalk, an insistent sense of juicy Mirabelle and ripe lemon breaks through with sheer exuberance. Something fresh-faced and honest in that fruit expression seems aware of the depth and seriousness of the wine. Despite the profundity, the wine conveys an eternal sense of joy. Concentrated and generous, but also so cool and linear, the wine is wonderful. Drink by 2040. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.

abv: 13% Price: $NA

97 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit La Moutonne Monopole Grand Cru (Chablis). A subtle nose on this wine references chalk, lanolin and lemon, drawing you in with a promise of depth. Just as secretive, the palate presents pure lemon essence from its depths of chalkiness. The wine is concentrated and bright, with effortless elegance. We will have to wait for this profound yet restrained wine to reveal itself. Drink 2025–2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K.

abv: 13% Price: $237

97 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Beautiful subtlety on this wine’s nose recalls smoky lemon, citrus pith and molten candlewax. The palate also holds these notions, bolstering that lemony waxiness with thick, layered chalkiness and pithy, mouthwatering freshness. This is concentated and bold, offering energy and drive, with a contradictory heat emanating from a cool core. A compelling wine, it needs to calm down a little. Drink 2025–2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K.

abv: 13% Price: $120

97 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit Vaudésirs Grand Cru (Chablis). Bright, tender lemon and fragrant summer blossom give a sense of delicacy to this wine’s chalky nose. The chalky, concentrated and textured palate is also pervaded by lemon zestiness that makes the mouth water. Yet the wine also has generosity and lovely balance. Richness and freshness are anchored in the stony depth of the wine, making it a joy to drink. Over the years the chalkiness will become even more pronounced. Drink by 2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K.

abv: 13% Price: $122

This wine’s shy nose suggests clear, molten wax. Waxy richness also plays on the concentrated palate where everything seems compact, bundled in richness and almost viscous. There is