California's Wine Country - Sonoma & Mendocino
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California's Wine Country - Sonoma & Mendocino - Lisa Manterfield
California’s Wine Country:
Sonoma & Mendocino
by
Lisa Manterfield
Hunter Publishing, Inc.
To Jose
For the good life
Introduction
Picture rolling hills, with long rows of vineyards trailing off into the distance. Imagine the early morning sun filtering through a low veil of mist. Think of historic stone buildings perched on hillsides overlooking the valley below, and you can form a picture of Wine Country.
No matter where you’re visiting from, Wine Country has the ability to transport you, for however long you’re staying, to a bucolic world, where exceptional wine flows freely and world-class cuisine is the expected norm. It’s almost impossible not to relax and unwind here.
Spring vineyards
Even if you don’t come for the wine and the food, Wine Country has something to offer almost every visitor. If you’re an outdoor-type, you’ll find beautiful state parks for hiking, biking, and nature watching, or you can take to the water and paddle your way down scenic rivers. If history is more your thing, you’ll know that the region played an important role in the history of California, and you’ll find several historic sites to visit.
And if you just want to relax and indulge in some personal spoiling, Wine Country has spas, luxury hotels, limousine tours, and boutique shopping.
Whether you visit for a weekend or a week, Wine Country has plenty to offer, no matter where your tastes lie.
About Wine Country
More than a dozen counties throughout California produce wine, but the North Coast region is by far the best-known. Four counties make up this region: Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Lake. Of these, Napa – or more accurately, the Napa Valley – is the most famous. Consequently, it’s the busiest and most commercialized of the regions, but it shouldn’t be missed. It’s a relatively compact region, so it’s easy to plan a tasting route. You’ll find excellent restaurants and a broad range of accommodations, from luxury resorts to homey B&Bs. Many famous winemakers call Napa Valley home,
and you can still find undiscovered gems in small boutique wineries all around the valley.
Napa Valley vineyard
North Coast winemaking began in Sonoma County, and this region has managed to maintain much of its country living feel. The wineries here are spread over several areas, so your route may take a little more planning, but it’s easy to find both major producers and small, family-run operations. Sonoma may not have the glitz of Napa, but its wines rival any. Aside from wine and food, Sonoma also offers plenty of activities for visitors. You can visit the Russian River, redwoods, and, of course, the stunning Sonoma Coast.
Mendocino County sits just north of Sonoma County and seems almost to have shunned the tourist industry. Not that visitors aren’t made welcome. Tasting rooms are friendly and seldom crowded, and you’ll find little pretentiousness here. You will, however, find good food and wonderful wines, in fact several renowned Napa Valley winemakers also own wineries in the region. There are fewer accommodations in this region, and some visitors opt to stay in northern Sonoma County or on the stunning Mendocino Coast, and drive into the Anderson Valley and other Mendocino wine regions.
This guide focusses primarily on the Sonoma & Mendocino Counties. The Napa Valley wineries are covered in another eBook by Lisa Materfield – California's Wine Country: The Napa Valley.
A Brief History of Wine Country
Russian settlers first planted grapes at Fort Ross on the Sonoma Coast in 1812. More than a decade later, the Sonoma Mission was founded, and Father Jose Altamira planted several thousand vines, presumably for the making of sacramental wines. Over the hill in Napa, George Yount began planting grapes in 1838 in what is now known as Yountville. It wasn’t until 1857, when a Hungarian Count by the name of Agoston Haraszthy founded the Buena Vista winery in Sonoma, that California’s wine industry was born. A few years later Charles Krug founded Napa’s first winery in St. Helena.
By the 1920s, the region was home to around 500 wineries with over 22,000 acres of planted vineyards in Sonoma County alone, but Prohibition was just around the corner. Although many winemakers went underground,
making wine in their homes, and others weathered the period by producing only sacramental wines for the church, by the end of Prohibition, less than 100 wineries survived.
By the 1960s, Americans began to develop a taste for wine and the industry grew steadily, but it wasn’t until the 70s that California, and more specifically the Napa Valley, rocketed to winemaking fame.
In 1976 a British wine merchant living in Paris made a stunning claim that California wines could rival their illustrious French counterparts. He put his preposterous idea to the test by selecting 12 California wines and pitting them head-to-head with their French equivalents in a blind tasting by nine revered French judges. The outcome, as one wine journalist wrote, was like a vinous shot heard around the world
as the 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon took the red wine category and the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was voted the best of the whites. Suddenly, the Napa Valley was firmly on the international winemaking map.
Today the North Coast region boasts more than 400 wineries in Napa, over 300 in Sonoma, 100 in Mendocino, and several dozen in Lake County.
Planning Your Trip
When to Go
There’s never a bad time to visit Wine Country. Even in the winter, when the weather can be cool or rainy and some restaurants and wineries operate on reduced hours, visitors can enjoy the benefit of quiet roads, winter fixed-price dinners, and personal attention in the tasting rooms, not to mention seasonal deals on accommodations. The winter months also bring crab season, whale watching, and the olive festival – all good reasons to visit.
The tourist season generally begins in March, when days begin to be warm and sunny. Average daytime highs reach the 60s and 70s, although the evenings can still be chilly. Springtime also brings wildflowers to the hillsides and the stunning yellow mustard to the vineyards.
The summer and fall months of June through October mark the region’s peak season, with high temperatures in the 80s and 90s, cool summer nights, and early morning fog. It’s a great time for outdoor activities, particularly at the coast and rivers. You’ll find the event calendar full of outdoor summer concerts, county fairs, and music festivals.
The fall finds Wine Country in all its glory, with bright sunny days and the vineyards in their magnificent fall colors. This is harvest time, when winemakers are at their busiest, and harvest fairs mark the end of the season. As always, sunshine is on the menu, but the first chill of fall is in the air.
November generally marks the beginning of rainy season in the region. Although average daytime highs still reach the 50s and 60, winter often sees spells of cold weather, with heavy nighttime frosts and daytime temperatures in the 40s. Snow in Wine Country is rare, and sunny or partly sunny days, with periods of rainfall, are the norm. Winter belongs to the locals and many restaurants boost business by offering affordable fixed-price menus and free corkage on local wines. (Note: The lines defining local wine
are clearly drawn: Napa Valley wine in Napa; Sonoma County in Sonoma.)
A Word About Hours
Because Wine Country has its seasons, visitor-oriented business owners take advantage of the quiet winter months for their own vacations. Many restaurants and wineries have winter hours and may be closed on certain days or operate on reduced hours. Some may even close altogether during the month of January. Before making a special trip during winter months, it’s a good idea to call ahead.
During the summer months, many wineries and restaurants host special events. Check local newspapers for upcoming events if you want to participate, but also be aware that businesses may not be open to the public on event days. Again, check ahead of time.
Finally, at the time of writing, many of the state parks were feeling the grip of California State budget cuts. Some parks now operate under reduced hours, and others are under threat of complete closure. Be sure to check park websites for updated information and help to keep them open by paying entrance fees.
Getting There
By Air
Horizon Air, part of Alaska Airlines, offers direct flights into Charles M. Schultz -Sonoma County Airport (STS) (2290 Airport Blvd; www.sonomacountyairport.org; 707-565-7243) from Los Angeles, Portland, Oregon, Seattle, and San Diego. One added perk of this option is that travelers leaving Sonoma County can check one box of wine at no charge. The airport is close to Highway 101, midway between Santa Rosa and Healdsburg. The drive to Sonoma takes about 45 minutes; Napa and Ukiah are each about an hour away.
Many major airlines offer both domestic and international flights into either Oakland (OAK) (www.flyoakland.com; 510-563-3300) or San Francisco (SFO) (www.flysfo.com; 800-435-9736). You can reach Napa or Sonoma from either airport in 1-1½ hours. Ukiah is about a 2½-hour drive.
At Sonoma County Airport, Hertz, Avis, Enterprise and Budget have car rental desks in the terminal. In Oakland, take the free rental car shuttle to the Oakland Rental Car Center. In San Francisco, take the free AirTrain Blue Line to the Rental Car Center. The following rental agencies are available at Oakland and San Francisco airports:
Alamo (www.alamo.com; 800-462-5266)
Avis (www.avis.com; 800-331-1212)
Budget (www.budget.com; 800-527-0700)
Dollar (www.dollar.com; 800-800-4000)
Enterprise (www.enterprise.com; 800-261-7331)
Fox (www.foxrentacar.com; 800-225-4369)
Hertz (www.hertz.com; 800-654-3131)
National (www.nationalcar.com; 800-277-7368)
Thrifty (www.thrifty.com; 800-847-4389)
Airport Express runs frequent services from all three airports, with drop-off and pick-up points in Petaluma and Rohnert Park in Sonoma County. www.airportexpressinc.com; 707-837-8700. One-way fare $34.
Mendocino Transit Authority runs a daily service from Sonoma County Airport to Hopland and Point Arena, with connections to Mendocino and the Anderson Valley. www.4mta.org; 800-696-4682.
Evans runs regular daily shuttles from Oakland