Beyond Nose to Tail: More Omnivorous Recipes for the Adventurous Cook
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About this ebook
Fergus Henderson
Fergus Henderson trained as an architect before becoming a chef. He opened the French House Dining Room in 1992 before two years later starting St. John, which is on the S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants list. Fergus continues to develop projects in the principle of Nose to Tail eating.
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Reviews for Beyond Nose to Tail
11 ratings1 review
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5This book possesses a whimsical verve which shows up much of he ghost-written tv-fodder masqerading as cookbooks in a most unflattering light. A rare of example of a book where the recipes are as pleasurable to read as to cook. A book which really succeeds in inviting you into the author's own little world - just don't forget your Trotter Gear!
Book preview
Beyond Nose to Tail - Fergus Henderson
BEYOND
NOSE
TO
TAIL
Copyright © 2007 by Fergus Henderson
and Justin Piers Gellatly
Photographs copyright © 2007 by Jason Lowe
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
For information address
Bloomsbury USA, 175 Fifth Avenue,
New York, NY 10010.
Published by Bloomsbury USA, New York
Distributed to the trade by Holtzbrinck Publishers
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION
DATA HAS BEEN APPLIED FOR.
eISBN: 978-1-59691-805-4
First U.S. Edition 2007
1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2
Designed by willwebb.co.uk
Printed and bound in Italy by L.E.G.O.
The paper this book is printed on is certified by the © 1996 Forest
Stewardship Council A. C. (FSC). It is ancient-forest friendly.
The printer holds FSC chain of custody SGS-COC-2939
BEYOND
NOSE
TO
TAIL
MORE
OMNIVOROUS
RECIPES FOR THE
ADVENTUROUS COOK
FERGUS
HENDERSON
&
JUSTIN PIERS
GELLATLY
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
JASON LOWE
BLOOMSBURY
FH
For Brian and Elizabeth Henderson
JPG
For Louise, my wonderful wife
FOUR MORE THINGS I THOUGHT
IT MIGHT BE WORTH MENTIONING
Nose to Tail Eating was admittedly short on the world of puddings, baking and bread, but we now have a chance to correct that failing with the aid of Justin Piers Gellatly, my pastry chef and head baker, who has spread his pastry wings and taken us beyond Nose to Tail.
The perfect recipe manages to steady and uplift at the same time.
One afternoon my flat was broken into. The strange thing is, before I went out I had put a hare in the oven to braise, which filled the flat with delicious gamey smells. I cannot help but think that it must have been very distracting to the burglar, the musk of a braising hare.
Unctuous potential: Trotter Gear is your gastronomic friend.
CONTENTS
SOMETHING TO GET THE JUICES GOING
Campari and white wine
PIG SKIN AND FAT
Salted back fat and wet walnuts
Pork scratchings, a version of
SOUP
Fennel, butter bean, ox tongue and green sauce Nettle and snail soup
Potato and back fat soup
Veal tail and pea soup
SALADS
Bacon, egg and bean salad
Bread & Wine salad
Butter bean, leek and cauliflower salad
Beetroot, red onion, red cabbage, creme fraiche and chervil
White cabbage and brown shrimp
Kohlrabi
PIG'S HEAD
Pressed pig's ear
Confit pig's cheek and dandelion
Pig's head and beans
Pot-roast half pig's head
TROTTER GEAR
Recipe for a healthy jar of Trotter Gear
Pot-roast bacon, trotter and prune
Deep-fried rabbit
Bacon, trotter and prune on foie gras toast
Guinea fowl, red cabbage, trotter and prune
Beef and pickled walnut stew
Braised squirrel
Snail, trotter, sausage and chickpeas
Pie possibilities
TWO PIES
Chicken and ox tongue pie
Pike pie
Puff pastry
MISCELLANEOUS DISHES WITHOUT TROTTER GEAR
Deep-fried tripe
Spinach, Dijon mustard and creme fraiche
Braised shoulder of lamb
Grilled mackerel
Grey mullet, fennel twigs and Jerusalem artichokes
Cold roast beef on dripping toast
Venison liver
Mince and tatties
Roast whole suckling pig
Orbs of joy
What a baked potato
CHEESY MOMENTS
Wigmore and potato pie
Fennel and Berkswell
BREAD
Mother
White loaf
Old dough Wholemeal loaf
White sourdough loaf
Brown sourdough loaf
Raisin loaf
Sandwich loaf
Soda bread
BAKING AND DOUGHNUTS
Seed cake and a glass of Madeira
Little chocolate buns
Little prune buns
Little anchovy buns
Prune loaf
Trencher
Madeleines
Shortbread
Thins Hazelnut biscuits
Speculaas
Eccles cakes
Doughnuts
Creme patissiere
Chocolate custard
Apple and cinnamon
Lemon curd
Raspberry jam
PUDDINGS
Hot chocolate pudding
Chocolate baked Alaska
Treacle tart
Queen of puddings
Bitter chocolate cream
Damson jelly
Apple and Calvados trifle
Summer pudding
Black hat
Quince and prunes
You fool
Rhubarb crumble cake
Profiteroles stuffed with vanilla ice cream
Rice pudding with Marc and raisin custard
Burnt sheep's milk yoghurt
Baked goat's curd cheesecake
STEADYING PUDDINGS
Black cap
Apple and blackberry cobbler
Bread pudding
Sticky date pudding
Gingerbread pudding
Victoria pudding
Brigade pudding
Prune and suet pudding
Steamed lemon and vanilla syrup sponge
ICE CREAM
Vanilla ice cream
Treacle toffee ice cream
Chocolate ice cream
Ripple ice cream
Sultana and Marc ice cream
Spiced ice cream
Brown bread and Armagnac ice cream
Dr. Henderson ice cream
Honey and brandy ice cream
Blackcurrant leaf ice cream
Lemon sorbet
BASIC, BUT VITAL
Making a brine
To clarify broth
Vinaigrette
Green sauce
Pickled shallots
Conversion tables
SOMETHING TO GET THE JUICES GOING
CAMPARI AND WHITE WINE
Having ended my last book on a cure for overindulgence, I thought, on a positive note, we should start this book on something to lead you into your indulgence, a cleansing glass to get the juices going. It's known in Italy as a bicyclette, as old men drink it and then wobble home on their bikes. Interestingly, Harry's Bar in Venice refuses to serve this concoction, rather as if it's Italy's version of a snakebite, but do not be deterred.
In a wineglass pour a measure of Campari, add some ice and top up with dry white wine. With trial and error, you shall find your chosen strength.
Your good health and appetite!
PIG SKIN AND FAT
SALTED BACK FAT
AND WET WALNUTS
Rather like eating grown-up peanut butter.
Take a piece of pork back fat (the Middle White pig has a good layer) and cover it with sea salt. Leave it in the fridge for a month. When its time is up, brush the salt off and slice very thinly on to a plate.
Crack your walnuts open and extract the nuts. Break into pieces over the plated back fat.
Eat with fingers, rolling the back fat around some walnut and popping it in your mouth.
PORK SCRATCHINGS, A VERSION OF
A most steadying nibble.
pig's skin (ask your butcher), with some fat attached
sea salt
enough duck fat to cover the skin
Spread a layer of sea salt on a plastic tray, or anything that won't react with the salt. Lay the skin on top and sprinkle liberally with sea salt. Leave in the fridge for 5 days.
When its time is up, remove the skin from the fridge and soak overnight in cold water. Rinse in clean water. Thoroughly dry with a clean tea towel and lay it in an oven tray. Cover with duck fat, then cover the tray with foil. Cook in a medium oven for 2Vi hours. As with all things cooking, keep an eye on it.
Take it out of the oven and allow to cool, smearing it with the solidifying duck fat. At this point you can keep it in the fridge until your next drinks party, or a frail moment when you are in need of such nourishment.
When such a moment arrives, place a rack on an oven tray, then lay your skin on top. Again put into a medium oven, in which it should slightly puff up into a sheet of golden, crispy joy (be careful not to brown it, as this is bitter and sad). Now remove from the oven and allow to cool. Place the crispy skin on a board and chop it with a heavy knife. It should break up into pieces. Serve.
A word of warning, though: with fragile dental arrangements, eat with caution.
SOUP
(Never underestimate the power of Soup)
FENNEL, BUTTER BEAN, OX TONGUE AND GREEN SAUCE
Makes a pot that will do a hearty lunch for six 1 ox tongue, brined for 10-14 days (see page 208)
a few stock vegetables, such as carrot, leek, celery, onion, garlic, roughly chopped
olive oil
6 heads of fennel, sliced thinly against the grain
4 firm white onions, peeled and sliced 3mm thick
8 cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole 1 small glass of Pernod
chicken stock
2 handfuls of butter beans, soaked overnight