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    Beyond Nose to Tail: More Omnivorous Recipes for the Adventurous Cook
    Beyond Nose to Tail: More Omnivorous Recipes for the Adventurous Cook
    Beyond Nose to Tail: More Omnivorous Recipes for the Adventurous Cook
    Ebook238 pages1 hour

    Beyond Nose to Tail: More Omnivorous Recipes for the Adventurous Cook

    By Fergus Henderson and Justin Piers Gellatly

    4.5/5

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    About this ebook

    Written in the same entertaining and accessible voice that made Nose to Tail Eating a certified foodie classic, this beautiful new collection of recipes by Fergus Henderson teaches you everything you'll ever need to know to prepare even more mouthwatering offal classics, from pork scratching, fennel and ox tongue soup, and pressed pig's ear to sourdough loaves and lardy cakes, chocolate baked Alaska, burnt sheep's milk yogurt, and goat's curd cheesecake, among others. While taking you through more than a hundred simple, easy-to-follow recipes, Henderson explains why nearly every part of every animal we eat is a delicious treat waiting for the hands of a patient cook to prepare it.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherBloomsbury USA
    Release dateDec 6, 2008
    ISBN9781596918054
    Beyond Nose to Tail: More Omnivorous Recipes for the Adventurous Cook
    Author

    Fergus Henderson

    Fergus Henderson trained as an architect before becoming a chef. He opened the French House Dining Room in 1992 before two years later starting St. John, which is on the S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants list. Fergus continues to develop projects in the principle of Nose to Tail eating.

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    Reviews for Beyond Nose to Tail

    4.5/5

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    • 5/5
      This book possesses a whimsical verve which shows up much of he ghost-written tv-fodder masqerading as cookbooks in a most unflattering light. A rare of example of a book where the recipes are as pleasurable to read as to cook. A book which really succeeds in inviting you into the author's own little world - just don't forget your Trotter Gear!

    Book preview

    Beyond Nose to Tail - Fergus Henderson

    BEYOND

    NOSE

    TO

    TAIL

    Copyright © 2007 by Fergus Henderson

    and Justin Piers Gellatly

    Photographs copyright © 2007 by Jason Lowe

    All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.

    For information address

    Bloomsbury USA, 175 Fifth Avenue,

    New York, NY 10010.

    Published by Bloomsbury USA, New York

    Distributed to the trade by Holtzbrinck Publishers

    LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION

    DATA HAS BEEN APPLIED FOR.

    eISBN: 978-1-59691-805-4

    First U.S. Edition 2007

    1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

    Designed by willwebb.co.uk

    Printed and bound in Italy by L.E.G.O.

    The paper this book is printed on is certified by the © 1996 Forest

    Stewardship Council A. C. (FSC). It is ancient-forest friendly.

    The printer holds FSC chain of custody SGS-COC-2939

    BEYOND

    NOSE

    TO

    TAIL

    MORE

    OMNIVOROUS

    RECIPES FOR THE

    ADVENTUROUS COOK

    FERGUS

    HENDERSON

    &

    JUSTIN PIERS

    GELLATLY

    PHOTOGRAPHS BY

    JASON LOWE

    BLOOMSBURY

    FH

    For Brian and Elizabeth Henderson

    JPG

    For Louise, my wonderful wife

    FOUR MORE THINGS I THOUGHT

    IT MIGHT BE WORTH MENTIONING

    Nose to Tail Eating was admittedly short on the world of puddings, baking and bread, but we now have a chance to correct that failing with the aid of Justin Piers Gellatly, my pastry chef and head baker, who has spread his pastry wings and taken us beyond Nose to Tail.

    The perfect recipe manages to steady and uplift at the same time.

    One afternoon my flat was broken into. The strange thing is, before I went out I had put a hare in the oven to braise, which filled the flat with delicious gamey smells. I cannot help but think that it must have been very distracting to the burglar, the musk of a braising hare.

    Unctuous potential: Trotter Gear is your gastronomic friend.

    CONTENTS

    SOMETHING TO GET THE JUICES GOING

    Campari and white wine

    PIG SKIN AND FAT

    Salted back fat and wet walnuts

    Pork scratchings, a version of

    SOUP

    Fennel, butter bean, ox tongue and green sauce Nettle and snail soup

    Potato and back fat soup

    Veal tail and pea soup

    SALADS

    Bacon, egg and bean salad

    Bread & Wine salad

    Butter bean, leek and cauliflower salad

    Beetroot, red onion, red cabbage, creme fraiche and chervil

    White cabbage and brown shrimp

    Kohlrabi

    PIG'S HEAD

    Pressed pig's ear

    Confit pig's cheek and dandelion

    Pig's head and beans

    Pot-roast half pig's head

    TROTTER GEAR

    Recipe for a healthy jar of Trotter Gear

    Pot-roast bacon, trotter and prune

    Deep-fried rabbit

    Bacon, trotter and prune on foie gras toast

    Guinea fowl, red cabbage, trotter and prune

    Beef and pickled walnut stew

    Braised squirrel

    Snail, trotter, sausage and chickpeas

    Pie possibilities

    TWO PIES

    Chicken and ox tongue pie

    Pike pie

    Puff pastry

    MISCELLANEOUS DISHES WITHOUT TROTTER GEAR

    Deep-fried tripe

    Spinach, Dijon mustard and creme fraiche

    Braised shoulder of lamb

    Grilled mackerel

    Grey mullet, fennel twigs and Jerusalem artichokes

    Cold roast beef on dripping toast

    Venison liver

    Mince and tatties

    Roast whole suckling pig

    Orbs of joy

    What a baked potato

    CHEESY MOMENTS

    Wigmore and potato pie

    Fennel and Berkswell

    BREAD

    Mother

    White loaf

    Old dough Wholemeal loaf

    White sourdough loaf

    Brown sourdough loaf

    Raisin loaf

    Sandwich loaf

    Soda bread

    BAKING AND DOUGHNUTS

    Seed cake and a glass of Madeira

    Little chocolate buns

    Little prune buns

    Little anchovy buns

    Prune loaf

    Trencher

    Madeleines

    Shortbread

    Thins Hazelnut biscuits

    Speculaas

    Eccles cakes

    Doughnuts

    Creme patissiere

    Chocolate custard

    Apple and cinnamon

    Lemon curd

    Raspberry jam

    PUDDINGS

    Hot chocolate pudding

    Chocolate baked Alaska

    Treacle tart

    Queen of puddings

    Bitter chocolate cream

    Damson jelly

    Apple and Calvados trifle

    Summer pudding

    Black hat

    Quince and prunes

    You fool

    Rhubarb crumble cake

    Profiteroles stuffed with vanilla ice cream

    Rice pudding with Marc and raisin custard

    Burnt sheep's milk yoghurt

    Baked goat's curd cheesecake

    STEADYING PUDDINGS

    Black cap

    Apple and blackberry cobbler

    Bread pudding

    Sticky date pudding

    Gingerbread pudding

    Victoria pudding

    Brigade pudding

    Prune and suet pudding

    Steamed lemon and vanilla syrup sponge

    ICE CREAM

    Vanilla ice cream

    Treacle toffee ice cream

    Chocolate ice cream

    Ripple ice cream

    Sultana and Marc ice cream

    Spiced ice cream

    Brown bread and Armagnac ice cream

    Dr. Henderson ice cream

    Honey and brandy ice cream

    Blackcurrant leaf ice cream

    Lemon sorbet

    BASIC, BUT VITAL

    Making a brine

    To clarify broth

    Vinaigrette

    Green sauce

    Pickled shallots

    Conversion tables

    SOMETHING TO GET THE JUICES GOING

    CAMPARI AND WHITE WINE

    Having ended my last book on a cure for overindulgence, I thought, on a positive note, we should start this book on something to lead you into your indulgence, a cleansing glass to get the juices going. It's known in Italy as a bicyclette, as old men drink it and then wobble home on their bikes. Interestingly, Harry's Bar in Venice refuses to serve this concoction, rather as if it's Italy's version of a snakebite, but do not be deterred.

    In a wineglass pour a measure of Campari, add some ice and top up with dry white wine. With trial and error, you shall find your chosen strength.

    Your good health and appetite!

    PIG SKIN AND FAT

    SALTED BACK FAT

    AND WET WALNUTS

    Rather like eating grown-up peanut butter.

    Take a piece of pork back fat (the Middle White pig has a good layer) and cover it with sea salt. Leave it in the fridge for a month. When its time is up, brush the salt off and slice very thinly on to a plate.

    Crack your walnuts open and extract the nuts. Break into pieces over the plated back fat.

    Eat with fingers, rolling the back fat around some walnut and popping it in your mouth.

    PORK SCRATCHINGS, A VERSION OF

    A most steadying nibble.

    pig's skin (ask your butcher), with some fat attached

    sea salt

    enough duck fat to cover the skin

    Spread a layer of sea salt on a plastic tray, or anything that won't react with the salt. Lay the skin on top and sprinkle liberally with sea salt. Leave in the fridge for 5 days.

    When its time is up, remove the skin from the fridge and soak overnight in cold water. Rinse in clean water. Thoroughly dry with a clean tea towel and lay it in an oven tray. Cover with duck fat, then cover the tray with foil. Cook in a medium oven for 2Vi hours. As with all things cooking, keep an eye on it.

    Take it out of the oven and allow to cool, smearing it with the solidifying duck fat. At this point you can keep it in the fridge until your next drinks party, or a frail moment when you are in need of such nourishment.

    When such a moment arrives, place a rack on an oven tray, then lay your skin on top. Again put into a medium oven, in which it should slightly puff up into a sheet of golden, crispy joy (be careful not to brown it, as this is bitter and sad). Now remove from the oven and allow to cool. Place the crispy skin on a board and chop it with a heavy knife. It should break up into pieces. Serve.

    A word of warning, though: with fragile dental arrangements, eat with caution.

    SOUP

    (Never underestimate the power of Soup)

    FENNEL, BUTTER BEAN, OX TONGUE AND GREEN SAUCE

    Makes a pot that will do a hearty lunch for six 1 ox tongue, brined for 10-14 days (see page 208)

    a few stock vegetables, such as carrot, leek, celery, onion, garlic, roughly chopped

    olive oil

    6 heads of fennel, sliced thinly against the grain

    4 firm white onions, peeled and sliced 3mm thick

    8 cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole 1 small glass of Pernod

    chicken stock

    2 handfuls of butter beans, soaked overnight

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