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    Practical Glove Making
    Practical Glove Making
    Practical Glove Making
    Ebook110 pages56 minutes

    Practical Glove Making

    By Isabel M. Edwards

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    About this ebook

    This vintage book contains a complete guide to making a gloves, with detailed directions for using leather, employing patterns, cutting, stitching, and everything else one might need to know. With simple instructions and a wealth of useful tips, this timeless handbook will be of considerable utility to readers wishing to make their own gloves. Contents include: “Gloving Leathers”, “Patterns”, “General Instructions for Marking Patterns”, “General Instructions on Cutting”, “Seams and Stitches”, “Needles, Threads and Pressing”, “Knots”, “Back Lines or Points, by Hand of Machine”, “Instructions for Washing and Cleaning Gloves”, “Furs”, etc. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on sewing gloves.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateJun 14, 2011
    ISBN9781446549360
    Practical Glove Making

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    • 4/5
      El contenido es muy interesante pero las imágenes para el patronaje son de mala calidad.

    Book preview

    Practical Glove Making - Isabel M. Edwards

    MAKING

    CHAPTER I

    GLOVING LEATHERS

    THE names under which gloving leathers are sold are legion, since leathers made from the same skins are often given different trade names, according to the methods of preparation employed by the various manufacturers. The leathers referred to here are those which the writer has found, after considerable experience both of manufacture and supply, are actually being used by workers making their own gloves.

    Chamois in its natural shades, cream and yellow, ranks easily first. For this leather we are indebted to the homely English sheep or lamb. To obtain chamois leather the skin, after the removal of the wool, is subjected to a splitting process, by which two complete skins are obtained from the same pelt. The inner half, taken from next the flesh, and containing practically all the skin’s strength, is now known as a lining. This lining is subjected to a somewhat lengthy treatment with cod oil, ultimately emerging as crust chamois. Only the best of these skins are suitable for gloving work.

    Once the skin has been passed for gloving, it can be finished on the flesh or on the grain side. The flesh side, or flesher, has the advantage of permitting generally a stouter substance, and is almost invariably used in hunting gloves. Grain chamois possesses a closer texture, and makes perhaps the finest gloves, though it must be admitted that the very tightness of nap which gives the attractive appearance does render imperative a more thorough washing, in order to remove all traces of dirt, than in the case of the more loosely textured flesher.

    Chamois skins are offered not only in the natural shades, but also as coloured fleshers, as Wear-clean or Unsoilable suedes. These are grain-finished skins, to which pigment colouring has been applied. They are in considerable demand in the light flesh, beige, and putty shades, to which this production especially lends itself. The justification for the terms Wear-clean or Unsoilable lies in the fact that the tightness of the nap tends to resist rather than admit the dirt. When eventually the gloves require treatment, dry cleaning is generally to be recommended.

    White Washable is made from the same skin as chamois, but the base of this leather is formaldehyde (formalin) instead of cod oil. To obtain this leather satisfactorily a most exclusive selection of skins is necessary, since its nature is to show up every conceivable defect.

    Crème Washable, a light leather of remarkably fine texture, is actually a white washable that has been delicately tinted.

    For chamois, whether in natural or colours, white or crème washable, the same glove pattern is employed. For stouter or firmer leathers allowance is made in the cutting of the patterns.

    In these heavier gloving leathers, generally the whole skin is employed, though in the case of Degrains the actual grain is removed, to allow of more suppleness and stretch, and also to give the gloves a warmer feel to the hands.

    One of the most popular leathers, especially for men’s wear, is that sold as Cape Tan, Nappa, or Oak Grain. A good proportion of these skins actually comes from Cape (South African) sheep.

    Dogskin is a leather of similar type, made from a good quality sheep or lamb, whilst Gloving Lambs—somewhat similar—are an inexpensive type of leather finished either for grain or flesh (suede) use. These are dressed by a combination tannage, a mixture of bark or bark extract (vegetable) and alum (mineral) being employed. These gloving lambs are in considerable demand for girl guides’ or for cycling gloves.

    The Degrains are a superior type of suede leather, the nap being worked up on the flesh side and the grain being removed. The highest grade are made from Arabian hair sheep, but good results are also obtained from skins hailing from the Cape, Spain, etc. Degrains provide a satisfactory substitute for reindeer, antelope, and other varieties of leather whose price places them beyond the reach of the majority of glove makers.

    In conclusion, mention should be made of an attractive grain finished and often washable leather, made from Persians (East India sheep). The leathers arrive in this country in the crust state, having already undergone a native tannage, of turwah bark. A certain amount of the original tannage having been stripped out, the skins are then re-tanned and dyed, the retanning giving a waterproofing effect in the case of the washable types.

    CHAPTER II

    PATTERNS

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    EXTENSIONS. Since but few skins cut the required or true size of the glove, it is wise to leave to your skin merchant the decision as to which pattern best suits the texture and tightness of the skin employed, simply stating the size of your usual glove. A hard, unstretchable skin needs a wider pattern; possibly more than one size 1X even to 4X or 5X. Certain types are sent out only with suitable extensions, such as those for fur-back, and for all lined gloves there are regulated extensions, and these are sent out according to requirements.

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