A Guide to Grafting the Grapevine
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A Guide to Grafting the Grapevine - Read Books Ltd.
Grafting the Vine
by
George Husmann
GRAFTING THE VINE.
I hardly need call attention, after the foregoing chapter, to the importance of this operation, on which so much of the success of our vineyards depends. But it is not alone the advantage it gives us in transforming a non-resistant vine into a resistant one. Its advantages are manifold, and may be summed up as follows:
1. The facility by which new and rare varieties may be rapidly increased, by grafting on old, healthy vines, often making a growth of from 10 to 20 feet the first season.
2. The short time it takes to fruit new and untried varieties, as the grafts, if strong enough, will bear a few bunches the first season, and nearly a full crop the second.
3. The facility by which vines of worthless or inferior varieties can be changed into valuable bearing vines of superior fruit.
4. Varieties which will not grow readily from cuttings will generally graft easily, and can thus be propagated faster.
5. Most important of all, it gives us the means to successfully combat the phylloxera, as we can change a non-resistant vine into a resistant one, by grafting on a resistant root near or above the surface; or by reversing the case, grafting eight or ten inches below the ground resistant cuttings on non-resistant roots, when the scion will take root at the junction, thus transforming itself into a resistant vine in time; while the stock will furnish the sustenance temporarily, to make it grow rapidly and vigorously.
All these advantages are so great that they will be obvious to any one. Being convinced of its importance, we will now consider when and how the operation should be performed. I shall not try to worry and confuse my readers with many complicated methods, but only mention a few of the simplest. Although the vine may not graft with the same ease as some other fruits, as the cambium and inner bark of the vine is very thin, yet it presents no serious difficulties, and if properly performed, from 75 to 90 per cent, of the grafts will grow.
First, as to the proper time. Although it may be done in this State as early as February; yet, if the scions are left dormant, I would rather wait until April or even May, although this will vary with the seasons and location. If the sap is flowing rapidly at the time, no matter; the junction will be formed all the more readily, provided it is done rapidly and well, so as to avoid exposure to the air in stock or scion. A lot of grafts were put in by me the first week in April this season. As I was called away by business, I could not finish until ten days later, and a few vines of new varieties were grafted still ten days later than these-Strange to relate, the last started first, the second lot next, and the first last of all. At the present date, June 28, many of the grafts have made a growth of seven feet, and show from three to nine bunches of fruit. These are Marsanne, grafted on four-year-old Charbono, Vinifera on Vinifera. This may serve as an illustration. About 90 per cent, of the second and third lot are growing; of the first, about 75 per cent., and only now starting into vigorous growth. All the scions were kept dormant, by being buried in a shady place.
Next, as to the proper choice of the scions. This I consider very important. The soion should be of medium sized, short jointed, firm wood, with well developed buds, and, of course, well ripened. The large canes are inconvenient, and generally too loose and pithy in their texture to make good scions, while the small wood has generally only a single bud, which is easily rubbed off and therefore liable to fail. About the size of a common lead pencil will be best, though somewhat larger scions may be used on heavy vines, and smaller ones on correspondingly small vines. Here the good sense of the grafter is the best guide, and a little practice will