A Guide to Making Leather Gloves - A Collection of Historical Articles on the Methods and Materials Used in Glove Making
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A Guide to Making Leather Gloves - A Collection of Historical Articles on the Methods and Materials Used in Glove Making - Read Books Ltd.
LEATHER GLOVES
1. Introduction
Gloves have long been a necessary part of the well dressed man or woman’s full attire, and are being worn today in ever increasing numbers. All fashion magazines indicate the importance of gloves to complete a costume for street, party, or sport. Both cleaners and leather workers have felt this increased use of gloves in a growing volume of glove cleaning and glove renovating problems.
This chapter might be considered as having more application to the dry-cleaner than to the shoe and leather processer. But the association is so close and has such an over-lapping of interests, that it should undoubtedly be of value in this text.
2. Kinds of Leathers Used
Gloves fall into two distinct groups, i. e., gloves for work and gloves for dress. It is quite natural that these functions are sufficiently separated to require individual discussion, especially in regard to the kinds of leathers used, and the care of them. The following outline describes the physical features of the various leathers and their application to gloves:
1. Sheepskin. Is a soft, supple, pliable leather, and is used in gloves, both in the smooth finish and suede finish. The softness lends itself to glove making. Because of the low cost and abundant supply, sheepskin leather provides the greater bulk of work gloves and semi-dress gloves. Some are found more finely finished into dress gloves. The dress gloves are more commonly found in the suede, rather than in the smooth finish. In sheepskin leather for gloves, there is practically no finish on the leather other than the fatliquors and stuffing, and the grain surface is entirely unglazed.
2. Calfskin. Forms a less pliable leather than the sheepskin. It possesses a more tightly interwoven collagen grain surface, which is not very suitable for gloves and glove making. The leathers that might be used from this source are usually from the Kip leathers (small calf), but even in this leather the same grain surface characteristic prevails.
3. Doeskin. Is a fine, flexible, smooth faced leather that is particularly applicable for fine dress gloves, for both men and women. The soft finish eliminates it as a very satisfactory work glove leather.
4. Cowhide. Is a heavy, stiff, thick leather, not at all applicable for gloves except in low grades of split leathers, that are used as the leather facing of work gloves, where the wearer needs the maximum heavy protection on the palm or front of Ms hand. Where these leathers are used in work gloves the backs are composed of cloth.
5. Horsehide. Is also a thick, heavy leather. Like the cowhide, it is not suitable for gloves, except the split grade which is used in the same function as the split cowhide in work gloves.
6. Goatskin (Kid and Morocco). Is a fine, flexible leather, with tightly interwoven collagen grain surface, which will impart an unusually fine dressed appearance. Kid leathers are found almost exclusively in dress gloves for both men and women.
7. Chamois. Is a wash leather, tanned from the flesh split of sheepskin, and is possibly the softest leather made. It can be adapted to fine, soft dress gloves with considerable success.
8. Pigskin. Is a strong, spongy, pliable leather, that has been applied quite widely for men’s semi-dress sportswear gloves. Its distinctive yellow shade and characteristically bristle pitted grain surface, make this leather unusually well adapted for men’s gloves and for sports-wear.
Other specialty leathers that may be used are buckskin, rawhide, artificial leather, etc.
3. Cleaning Leather Gloves
The dry-cleaning method for the cleaning of leather gloves (like the same process for leather coats) has proved the most satisfactory, and is most generally used. General techniques are outlined as follows:
a. White