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    Digesting Recipes: The Art of Culinary Notation
    Digesting Recipes: The Art of Culinary Notation
    Digesting Recipes: The Art of Culinary Notation
    Ebook129 pages2 hours

    Digesting Recipes: The Art of Culinary Notation

    By Susannah Worth

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    About this ebook

    Digesting Recipes: The Art of Culinary Notation scrutinises the form of the recipe, using it as a means to explore a multitude of subjects in post-war Western art and culture, including industrial mass-production, consumerism, hidden labour, and art engaged with the everyday. Each chapter is presented as a dish in a nine-course meal, drawing on examples from published cookbooks and the work of artists such as Alison Knowles, Yoko Ono, Annette Messager, Martha Rosler, Barbara T. Smith, Bobby Baker and Mika Rottenberg. A recipe is an instruction, the imperative tone of the expert, but this constraint can offer its own kind of potential. A recipe need not be a domestic trap but might instead offer escape – something to fantasise about or aspire to. It can hold a promise of transformation both actual and metaphorical. It can be a proposal for action, or envision a possible future.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherJohn Hunt Publishing
    Release dateJun 26, 2015
    ISBN9781782798590
    Digesting Recipes: The Art of Culinary Notation
    Author

    Susannah Worth

    Susannah Worth is a writer and editor, and has worked in arts publishing since 2006.

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      Book preview

      Digesting Recipes - Susannah Worth

      WHAT PEOPLE ARE SAYING ABOUT

      DIGESTING RECIPES

      Digesting Recipes switches beautifully between questions of genre, language, art and meaning. Susannah Worth thinks carefully and fruitfully about feminist arguments relating to art history and domesticity in particular, with sensitivity and great insight. Her sparkling prose is smooth and engaging, with fresh readings of some by-now classic feminist artworks as well as more recent and obscure pieces. Her focus is acute and laser-like, moving with ease between politics, history and aesthetics. The format of the piece – presented as courses of a meal – is ingenious and highly successful, allowing the inclusion of an interview, short critical entries, readings of specific artworks, an excellent cookbook bibliography, and so on.

      Nina Power, author of One-Dimensional Woman

      This is a wonderful book. As with the most seemingly casual of chefs, such acute intuition comes as the result of a great deal of work and a complete understanding of materials. The range of sources is expansive, and across many disciplines, and they are handled with confidence and an easy familiarity. As with many dishes, the simple things are the most difficult to achieve well, as there is no means of hiding bad ingredients or poor method. Neither is found here; indeed, good ideas, well presented are to be found on every page. This is a work that somehow manages to be both well done and rare.

      Jeremy Millar, artist and writer

      Food and hunger have long been recurrent themes in my own work. But I am not the only one! We are all hungry for guidance and recipes and instructions which make it easier for us to get out of bed in the morning, easier for us to swallow the media’s news, National Enquirer’s fibs, easier for us to face our aging faces and IT-ed minds. Thankfully, Susannah Worth’s book, Digesting Recipes, helps to get us to the truth of ART+LIFE.

      Linda Mary Montano, performance artist and author of Art in Everyday Life, Performance Artists Talking in the Eighties, Letters from Linda M. Montano, Mildred’s Death and You Too Are A Performance Artist

      Susannah Worth sifts and pares the familiar genre of the recipe so that we might better appreciate how politically calorific this bearer of cultural codes really is. The manifold approach of Digesting Recipes to an apparently singular subject is invigorating, its visual art and literary leanings enriching. At a time when competitive leisure cooking, not to mention eating, saturates the television, the high street and the more prosaic channels of the brain, the book performs the important job of reestablishing critical and historical perspectives onto a quotidian authoritarian form.

      Sally O’Reilly, writer of The Body in Contemporary Art (World of Art)

      Digesting Recipes takes an off-beat and highly refreshing postmodern look at cookbooks as markers of cultural identity. Recipes, it makes clear, are far more than cooking directions. After reading this, I have a whole new appreciation for what recipes can tell us about the deeper meanings of modern society.

      Marion Nestle, Professor of nutrition, food studies, and public health at New York University and author of What to Eat

      First published by Zero Books, 2015

      Zero Books is an imprint of John Hunt Publishing Ltd., Laurel House, Station Approach,

      Alresford, Hants, SO24 9JH, UK

      office1@jhpbooks.net

      www.johnhuntpublishing.com

      www.zero-books.net

      For distributor details and how to order please visit the ‘Ordering’ section on our website.

      Text copyright: Susannah Worth 2014

      ISBN: 978 1 78279 860 6

      Library of Congress Control Number: 2014958370

      All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in critical articles or reviews, no part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission from the publishers.

      The rights of Susannah Worth as author have been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

      A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      Design: Lee Nash

      Printed and bound by CPI Group (UK) Ltd, Croydon, CR0 4YY, UK

      We operate a distinctive and ethical publishing philosophy in all areas of our business, from our global network of authors to production and worldwide distribution.

      Menu

      Introductions

      1

      Hors d’oeuvre

      The Recipe as Escape

      2

      Salad

      The Recipe as Event Score

      3

      Entrée

      The Recipe as Mimicry

      4

      Main course

      The Recipe Re-formed

      5

      Side dish

      The Recipe as Reciprocity

      6

      First entremet

      The Recipe as Criticism

      7

      Second entremet

      The Recipe as Critique

      8

      Dessert

      The Recipe as Immaterial Capital

      9

      Cheeseboard

      Some Cookbooks 1941–2015

      Select Ingredients List

      A toast to my grandmothers: wonderful women, terrible cooks

      Start first begin take put chop roughly chop finely chop prepare cut ready boil remove float drain singe sear slice trim snip tie cook overcook steam broil soak grill char chargrill fry deep-fry flash-fry pan-fry cover sprinkle splash reduce mix plunge knead stir thicken place preheat steep sieve wash add blanch whip chill put to decorate flavour braise season clean empty pour dry pour over skewer brown skim simmer purée cube dice peel peel off mash strain heat make surround press melt separate beat tip tap reserve set aside roll roll up roll out unroll cover drain bring to a boil shell put aside set aside pound wet moisten smoke singe roast poach bake bone crush grind layer oil grease flatten shake flip beat toast skin flour paint marinate wipe keep break scramble inject pluck stuff blend allow to cool snare salt baste sift form wrap divide drain drain off evaporate spread stick grate refrigerate double run a knife core scoop scrape substitute repeat mould unmould shape plait ice fold brush squeeze shave score whisk cool chill form halve scatter pipe crumble dot pulse pulp return warm dissolve cream rinse bring together work caramelise coat wrap measure sweat process open wait pull scald smear rub throw in pop tap empty whiz sew slash scale gut hang grab snip angle a blade crack start lift lower make sure test taste top dollop uncover draw away tilt transfer butter scramble combine allow to cool drizzle make a well quarter split tear rip pile toss griddle barbecue lay soften turn turn on turn up turn down turn over turn out turn off microwave defrost freeze rest dip break ladle swirl sauté flambé top and tail dry-roast pick invert shake reheat continue fill adjust stew blitz discard top up line bake blind press down pat dry par-boil shred spoon spoon over trickle blacken incorporate knock-up check shuck sizzle sit fillet pickle store thread twist up stone seed load seal liquidize prick glaze deglaze dress heap present plate up arrange stack accompany dust garnish finish serve

      Introductions

      ‘Let’s open a dictionary to the words Potential Literature. We find absolutely nothing. Annoying lacuna. What follows is intended, if not to impose a definition, at least to propose a few remarks, simple hors d’oeuvres meant to assuage the impatience of the starving multitudes until the arrival of the main dish.’

      —François le Lionnais

      La LiPo: Le Premiere Manifeste (1962)

      ‘I want to be there in the kitchen with you; my words are merely my side of the conversation I imagine we might have.’

      —Nigella Lawson

      Nigella Bites (2001)

      In 2001, Professor David Warburton, head of psychology at Reading University, announced the discovery of a new disorder which he termed Kitchen Performance Anxiety (KPA). Symptoms include mental block, distraction, sensitivity to noise and onlookers, as well as rapid heart rate, difficulty in breathing, nausea and headaches. He attributed the occurrence of Kitchen Performance Anxiety to the high standards set by Jamie Oliver’s effortlessly sun-touched antipasti, Nigella Lawson’s languorous linguine and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s authentic rustic River Cottage rough-puff pastry pies. As

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