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    Making Stained Glass Lamps
    Making Stained Glass Lamps
    Making Stained Glass Lamps
    Ebook534 pages48 minutes

    Making Stained Glass Lamps

    By Michael Johnston

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    About this ebook

    Step-by-step photos illustrate the entire lamp-making process. Includes full-size, fold-out patterns to make 12 beautiful shades. Features "Pro Tips" from a master glass artist.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherStackpole Books
    Release dateDec 17, 2009
    ISBN9780811741088
    Making Stained Glass Lamps
    Author

    Michael Johnston

    Michael Johnston was the oldest of the group of young National Service officers who served together in HMS Warrior during Operation Grapple. Already a published author, he has, with input from his erstwhile shipmates, now friends of 60 years standing, complied and written this first-hand account by those who were there.

    Read more from Michael Johnston

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      Book preview

      Making Stained Glass Lamps - Michael Johnston

      Resources

      introduction

      Shortly after the invention of the incandescent bulb, stained glass lampshades were being created to light the fancier homes in the country. Taking flat pieces of glass and fashioning them into three-dimensional objects was not only a revolutionary concept, but it also opened a door to a more functional side of the craft.

      In this book, we have provided you with two different designs and complete step-by-step different designs and complete step-by-step inch shade is large enough to hang over a dining room table or a bar but can just as easily be displayed on a large table or floor base.

      A project of this magnitude is not meant for a novice stained-glass crafter. However, we have included detailed primers in glass cutting and soldering. We have also provided a flat panel design to complete as practice. Once your glass is separating cleanly along your score line and your solder seams are round and smooth, you will be ready to start your lamp.

      As you work through the lamp project, you will learn advanced cutting and foiling techniques as well as the proper use of a lamp leveler and bracing blocks. You will also learn how to tin a vase cap and attach reinforcing wire. Procedures for building the lamp’s cone, attaching the skirt, and soldering all connections will also be detailed. Chapter 7 includes stained glass repair instructions in the event that you break a piece or two of glass along the way.

      While all of the ideas and procedures presented here are intended to facilitate the successful completion of your lampshade, you will be developing skills that will allow you to complete almost any other shade. So be patient. Read all of the instructions and refer back to the cutting and soldering primers if you need to.

      As you are building your lamp, if you have questions or comments about this book, please contact us through our website (www.rainbowvisionsg.com). We will make every effort to send you a response. And when your shade is finished, be sure to send us a photograph of your masterpiece so we can add it to our Internet gallery.

      Are you ready to begin? Let’s get started!

      AS YOUR INTEREST IN STAINED GLASS BLOSSOMS, you will soon discover that you are spending a great deal of time in your glass shop. Four elements contribute to a comfortable and efficient working environment.

      good light source

      sturdy work table

      nearby water source

      adequate ventilation

      All aspects of stained glass making (cutting, foiling, soldering, and so on) involve a need for precision, and the better you see, the better the final product will be. A two- or four-bulb fluorescent light hanging over a workbench is generally adequate.

      A work table should be sturdy and at a height comfortable for the user. If you are of average height, a tabletop approximately 34 inches from the floor will probably work well. Plywood construction is ideal, and a size of 30 inches by 72 inches will handle most projects. The gray-colored work surface shown here is a piece of fire-resistant Homasote about 2 feet by 3 feet in size that can be placed on the plywood.

      Homasote has a firm surface with a slight spring, which makes it perfect for glass cutting. (Plywood by itself is a bit rigid.) Pins and nails are easily secured in Homasote, and soldering is easier and safer due to its fire resistance. Homasote used to be readily available at all building supply stores but is no longer as common. You might have to call around to find it or settle for a substitute product.

      In addition to providing the crafter with a handy place to wash up, a nearby sink will make it easy to clean the project at several stages. Any size basin can work, but one with an opening 12 inches by 20 inches or larger is ideal. Plan to use a screen strainer to prevent sand and other debris from making their way into your drainpipes.

      Set up a shop in an area that is convenient to you based on what rooms you have available. You will only have so many options, and often you do the best you can with your space. Ideally, you will want a room with good ventilation so air can move through your work area during the soldering stage. If this type of setup is not possible, use a small table fan on your work table or purchase a smoke absorber, which is available at stained glass supply stores. You can also experiment with opening adjacent doors and windows to create a cross breeze in your work area.

      In addition to the shop features previously listed, several other items will be very useful:

      bench brush and dustpan for cleaning up glass shards and other debris

      storage bins for sheets of glass

      cabinet for chemicals and tools

      comfortable stool

      radio or CD or MP3 player

      multi-receptacle surge suppressor with LED light for operating several electrical items at once (the light will act as a visual reminder to turn off your soldering iron at the end of each work session).

      STAINED GLASS SAFETY

      Stained glass making is generally a very safe craft, and by adopting the safety precautions listed here, you will greatly reduce the likelihood of injuries and health problems.

      The most common injury that occurs in crafting stained glass is a cut finger. Prevention includes careful handling of the glass and frequent brushing of your work area to eliminate shards and specks of glass.

      If you do get a cut, tend to it immediately by applying an antiseptic and adhesive bandage. Keep these items at close hand in your shop.

      Never eat, drink, or smoke while engaged in any of the steps in making stained glass items.

      Be careful and use common sense when working with lead cames and solder. Generally, stained glass crafters are exposed to only very low levels of lead while building their projects. Make sure to bandage any open wounds and thoroughly wash your hands after working with lead or solder.

      Wear closed-toed shoes at all times to avoid glass injuries to your feet.

      Do not allow children or pets in your work area.

      Wear rubber gloves when working with patinas and etching cream. These substances can cause chemical burns on exposed skin and be harmful if absorbed into the bloodstream.

      Always wear safety goggles when cutting or grinding glass.

      Use care when handling large sheets of glass. Grip the sheet by its top edge and move it slowly to avoid jarring. Never hold a large sheet of glass horizontally because it might crack from the strain. Never try to catch a falling sheet of glass—let it go and move quickly out of the way.

      To avoid burns, use a heavy-duty stand to hold your soldering iron when not in use.

      Take care that the cord of the soldering iron does not become entangled in the spirals of the stand; otherwise, the cord may be damaged and electrical problems may occur.

      When soldering, position your head so that you are not directly breathing in fumes from the flux.

      Always wash your hands thoroughly after working in any phase of stained glass construction.

      Avoid soldering in tight spaces with little ventilation. Create airflow with a small fan or open windows. Smoke absorbers (shown

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