All Sorts of Carpentry Joints: A Guide for the Amateur Carpenter on how to Construct and use Halved, Lapped, Notched, Housed, Edge, Angle, Dowelled, Mortise and Tenon, Scarf, Mitre, Dovetail, Lap and Secret Joints
By Anon Anon
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All Sorts of Carpentry Joints - Anon Anon
Halved, Lapped, Notched and Housed Joints
UNLESS woodwork joints are neatly and well made, the best after-finish cannot conceal a clumsy effect, nor can proper strength and durability be expected. The careless worker often relies on tightening with the cramp, or on slight alterations when fitting, but by far the most satisfactory and least time-wasting way is to follow sound and craftsmanlike principles from the start.
Fig. 1.—Straight Half-lap Joint
The number of different joints employed in woodworking is surprisingly large. Joiners, carpenters, cabinet-makers, wheelwrights and many other trades each have their own favourite methods, and, oddly enough, often have distinctive ways of making what is really the same joint. Even national variations are met in the work and tools of one country as compared with another.
It is here proposed to deal with many descriptions of jointing in such detail as to be practically helpful. Fully illustrated instructions will be given for constructing all the ordinary kinds of joints employed by skilled artisans, besides numerous others of an unusual and unique type.
Halved Joints.—Figs 1 to 17 show simple examples, in wood of rectangular section, of joints commonly met with in carpentry and cabinet work. They are very easy to make, and, in some cases are quite as suitable as more difficult joints. The straight half-lap joint (Fig. 1) can be used for lengthening posts or rails in hut-building, etc., also for forming wall plates, joists and rafters for roofs, floors, and temporary structures. It is readily set out. A marking gauge, marking knife (or pencil) and square are employed in setting out the pieces. As the name of the joint indicates, the depth of each piece cut away is half the thickness of the wood, and in cutting down with the tenon saw care should be taken to keep inside the line; the four cuts are made with a tenon saw. The terms halved
and lap
are often used interchangeably; but, as a matter of fact, while a halved joint is always a lapped one, a lap joint is not invariably halved. Fig. 2 shows the angle half-lap joint, suitable for corners or angles in framework, and in framed grounds for the fixing of joinery.
Fig. 2.—Angle Half-lap Joint
Fig. 3.—Tee Half-lap Joint
Fig. 4.—Lapped Frame with Tee-stretcher
Tee and Cross Half-lap Joints.—The Tee half-lap (Fig. 3) is useful where a rail meets a post, or post meets sill, in the framework of huts. Fig. 4 shows a square frame halved at the angles, and with a Tee stretcher fitted at the middle. The sinking for the Tee joint is marked out for the width and gauged for depth; then, after making the usual saw-cuts, the waste is removed with a paring chisel, used either horizontally or vertically, as proves most convenient.
Fig. 5.—Cross Half-lap Joint
The cross half-lap (Fig. 5) is obviously a double Tee, and is very handy where pieces are required to cross each other with a flush face. A familiar instance is the Oxford frame, and the centre of a barrow-wheel may also be cited. In making Tee and cross half-joints, the parts should be gauged to a width, so that they may be set out with the certainty of fitting truly. When marking for the width of sinking, care must be taken that the saw kerfs are not too far apart. It is better to have the slot too narrow rather than too wide, and fit the joint afterwards by planing the opposite piece or paring the joint. But this precaution should not be depended upon to give good work. It is only suggested that it is better to have the joint a little tight rather than a little slack. The former can be remedied, but the latter cannot. The aim should be to saw the joint right first time, and so that the pieces can be fitted together hand-tight.
Fig. 6.—Straight Bevelled Half-lap Joint
Fig. 7.—Angle Bevelled Half-lap Joint
Fig. 8.—Double Bevelled Angle Half-lap
Bevelled Half-lap Joints.—Examples of this useful joint are shown by Figs. 6, 7, and 8. It is occasionally employed for heavy framing work, wall plates, sills and binders, to withstand a pulling stress, also in good half-timbering for the exterior of Elizabethan-style houses. The marking down and across is similar to the simpler form of lap, but a tapered piece of wood is used as a template for the depth, instead of the gauge, though the latter is sometimes used as well, to give the right starting point for the taper.
Fig. 9.—Dovetailed Tee Half-lap
Fig. 10.—Stopped Dovetailed Half-lap
Fig. 11.—Marking Sinking from Pin
Fig. 12.—Sawing Dovetail Socket; note Saw-kerfs in Waste Wood
Fig. 13.—Dovetail Half-lap for Upward Pull
Fig. 14.—Dovetailed Acute-Angle Half-lap
Dovetail and Diagonal Half-lap Joints.—The dovetail half-lap may be regarded as a Tee half-lap modified to resist a lateral pull (see Figs. 9 and 10). It is extensively used in cabinet work. The pin part should be made first, commencing as for an ordinary lap joint, then sawing the shoulders to the necessary angle and carefully finishing with the chisel. The pin half is next held over the piece for the socket, the sinking accurately marked, as in Fig. 11, squared down, sawn sparely so as to fit the pin tightly (see Fig. 12), and the waste chiselled out. Fig. 13 illustrates a similar joint designed to resist an upward pull. An adaptation of dovetail and half-lap joints will be seen in Fig. 14, which shows the same kind of joint as in Fig. 10, but not having the two pieces at a right angle; this is known as diagonal halving. Fig. 17 is a cross diagonal joint.
Fig. 15.—Portion of Chest of Drawers, showing Dovetail and Half-lap Joints
The corners of the frame illustrated in Fig. 18 are secured by bevelled half-lapping, while in the centre are two diagonal crosspieces or braces. To set out the latter, the sliding bevel is used to take the exact angle, which is then transferred to the first portion of the cross. The second piece is then laid on the first and marked in. The marked piece is now gauged for depth and cut; the other being next laid in position in the halving and marked to fit in the usual way. To insert the completed cross into the frame, one is laid on the other and the positions marked for all the cuts, the depths on both frame and cross-ends being then gauged.
In Fig. 16 we show the application of the ordinary form of the ship-lap joint (there is a more complicated form of this joint which will be described later); this is only suitable for use between two absolutely fixed posts or something similar, but in such positions it is a handy way of fixing rails or uprights. The reason why it is necessary that the timbers between which this joint is used must be rigidly fixed is, the joint being made on the slope