Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes
5/5
()
About this ebook
Doris Anderson
Doris Anderson has taught thousands of students--many haunted by secrets just like Annie’s--during her long teaching career. When her own children were young, she learned how important horses can be for young people. Anderson has published plays to help teenagers with life issues. She lives in Southern California.
Read more from Doris Anderson
Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Six, Fittings Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Two, Pattern Alteration Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Related to Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes
Related ebooks
Pattern Fitting and Alteration for Beginners: Fit and Alter Your Favorite Garments With Confidence Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Tailoring for Women Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Intermediate Guide to Pattern Fitting and Alteration: 7 Projects and Little-Known Tricks to Fit and Design Garments Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsFirst Steps In Dressmaking - Essential Stitches And Seams, Easy Garment Making, Individualizing Tissue-Paper Patterns Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsHow to Draft a Pattern: The Essential Guide to Custom Design Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTeach Yourself Stitch Craft and Dressmaking Volume VII: Important Tips Before Stitching - Estimation of cloth and other tips Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsDress Making - Drafting and Pattern Making Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Intermediate Guide to Serger: Get Better Finishing, Improve Stitch Formation and Troubleshoot Effortlessly Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSuccessful Serging: From Setup to Simple and Specialty Stitches Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5The Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Bare Essentials: Bras - Third Edition Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Ultimate Illustrated Guide to Sewing Clothes: A Complete Course on Making Clothing for Fit and Fashion Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Sewing 101: Master Basic Skills and Techniques Easily Through Step-by-Step Instruction Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsEssential Sewing Reference Tool: All-in-One Visual Guide Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Modern men's tailoring: A Basic Guide To Pattern Drafting Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Beginner's Guide to Serger: What Every Beginner Needs to Know to Unlock Her Serger's True Potential Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsHouse of Pinheiro's Work to Weekend Wardrobe: Sew Your Own Capsule Collection Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Serger 101: From Setting Up & Using Your Machine to Creating with Confidence; 10 Projects & 40+ Techniques Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Big Sewing Book: Basics & Techniques Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The New Sewing Essentials Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSew Your Own Activewear: Make a Unique Sportswear Wardrobe from Four Basic Sewing Blocks Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Singer: The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Savvy Seamstress: An Illustrated Guide to Customizing Your Favorite Patterns Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Better Bag Maker: An Illustrated Handbook of Handbag Design • Techniques, Tips, and Tricks Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5A-Z of Sewing: The Ultimate Guide for Everyone From Sewing Beginners to Experts Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5How to Use a Sewing Machine: A Beginner's Manual Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Perfect Fit: Creating and Altering Basic Sewing Patterns for Tops, Sleeves, Skirts, and Pants Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Crafts & Hobbies For You
Morpho: Anatomy for Artists Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Merch by Amazon Blueprint: Six Figure T-Shirt Business In One Year With Amazon Merch Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Floriography: An Illustrated Guide to the Victorian Language of Flowers Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Sharpie Art Workshop: Techniques & Ideas for Transforming Your World Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5The Big Book of Maker Skills: Tools & Techniques for Building Great Tech Projects Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Learn How to Play Piano Keyboard for Absolute Beginners: A Self Tuition Book for Adults and Teenagers! Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Crochet in a Day: 42 Fast & Fun Projects Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Kawaii Crochet: 40 Super Cute Crochet Patterns for Adorable Amigurumi Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Rockhounding for Beginners: Your Comprehensive Guide to Finding and Collecting Precious Minerals, Gems, Geodes, & More Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsCrocheting in Plain English: The Only Book any Crocheter Will Ever Need Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Complete Language of Flowers: A Definitive and Illustrated History Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Crochet: Fun & Easy Patterns For Beginners Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The CIA Lockpicking Manual Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Modern Crochet Bible: Over 100 Contemporary Crochet Techniques and Stitches Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/540+ Stash-Busting Projects to Crochet! Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Big-Ass Book of Crafts 2 Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Little House Living: The Make-Your-Own Guide to a Frugal, Simple, and Self-Sufficient Life Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Teach Yourself VISUALLY Crochet Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Floret Farm's Cut Flower Garden: Grow, Harvest, and Arrange Stunning Seasonal Blooms Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Cozy Minimalist Home: More Style, Less Stuff Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Summary of Dr. Julie Holland's Moody Bitches Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSnuggle and Play Crochet: 40 Amigurumi Patterns for Lovey Security Blankets and Matching Toys Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Easy Crochet Dishcloths: Learn to Crochet Stitch by Stitch with Modern Stashbuster Projects Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Reviews for Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes
1 rating0 reviews
Book preview
Simplified Systems of Sewing Styling - Lesson Five, Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes - Doris Anderson
Buttonholes
Bound Buttonholes
Buttonholes are meant to be either functional or decorative. A functional buttonhole is one that is used as a closing of the garment; while a decorative one is placed strategically, is accompanied by a decorative button and serves as the major accent of the garment. Whether functional or decorative, buttonholes must be attractive and therefore must be perfectly constructed. The few important steps upon which this depends are clearly defined under Construction of Bound Buttonholes
.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
The most widely used buttonhole in women’s apparel is the bound buttonhole; it is the most attractive and is always used when the buttonhole is to serve a decorative purpose. It can be made in all types of fabric without difficulty, although it should not be made in garments of transparent material. In fact, no buttonhole should ever be made in a transparent fabric, since it is too sheer for such a tailored construction, and the buttonhole would not be in harmony with the material. This holds for blouses as well as other garments; select a style that does not call for this construction.
Although there are several techniques for making a bound buttonhole, the welt method has been selected for this text because it is the strongest and the simplest type, and because it takes less time to construct.
Size of Button: Before the buttons can be selected and the buttonholes made, the size of the button must be determined. The maximum size that can be used on the garment depends upon the pattern, since the spacing of the button is made in the drafting of the pattern.
To learn the requirements of the pattern you must first analyze the type of facing that is used and decide what line will become the finished edge of the garment. There are two types of facings: the attached facing and the applied facing. The attached facing and the garment section it is to face are cut as one. The facing is turned to the inside and the line on which it is folded becomes the finished edge of the garment. In construction this line is referred to as the fold line. Fig. 1. The applied facing is a separate section, which is stitched to the garment and then turned to the inside on the seam line. In this construction the seam line is the finished edge of the garment. Fig. 2.
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
To determine the largest size button you can use, measure the pattern from the marking for the buttonhole to the line that will become the finished edge of the garment. Fig. 3. Subtract 1/4-inch from this measurement and your result will be one-half the width of the largest button you can use on that garment. When an allowance of 1/4-inch is made there will be a 1/4-inch space from the edge of the button to the edge of the garment when the garment is closed. Fig. 4(A). If a larger button is used than this measurement allows, the button will overlap the edge of the garment and obviously will look wrong. Fig. 4(B).
Size of Buttonholes: To determine the length of the buttonhole, measure the diameter of the button and to this measurement add 1/8-inch. A thick button requires a longer buttonhole than a thin one; in this case, measure the diameter of the button plus one-half its depth, plus 1/8-inch.
The width of the buttonhole should be 1/4-inch; if it exceeds this width it looks clumsily and poorly made. If the length of the buttonhole is less than 3/4-inch, make it 1/8-inch wide.
The length and width of each buttonhole must be so exact that one does not vary so much as the width of a thread from the other. You can attain accuracy by counting the number of stitches that will give you the length and width needed. For example, if you are stitching with twelve stitches on your machine and your buttonhole must be 1 1/4-inches long, you will stitch 15 stitches to give you the length and 3 stitches to give the width required. If you are stitching with 16 stitches on your machine for the same length buttonhole you must have 20 stitches for the length and 4 stitches to give the 1/4-inch width required. Count your stitches as you stitch each buttonhole and make each with the same number of stitches.
Spacing Buttonholes: Buttonholes must not only be equal in width and length, but the distance between must also be precisely accurate. The markings transferred to the material from the pattern by means of tailors’ tacks are not sufficiently exact to be used as a correct marking when more than two buttonholes are used in succession.
When the button closing is down the center-front or center-back, the buttonholes must begin on the center-front or center-back line. In the finished garment it is very apparent if the closing is off-center; often the pattern markings must be disregarded in order for the buttonholes to be started on the center line.
To provide a greater overlap in the front, often with men’s pajamas and sometimes with women’s coats, the buttonholes are marked beyond the center-front line toward the edge of the garment; the buttons in this case would be sewed beyond the center-front toward the inside of the garment, so that when the garment is closed the front lines coincide. When the space between the line of the buttonholes and the center-front is not great enough to make the line significant and interesting, the buttons look misplaced, except in