Fashions and Fashion Plates 1800-1900
By James Laver
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Taste and Fashion - From the French Revolution to the Present Day Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsChildren's Fashions in the Nineteenth Century Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
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Fashions and Fashion Plates 1800-1900 - James Laver
PLATES
INTRODUCTION
THAT everybody is now fashion-conscious to a degree which a few years ago would have been thought incredible is due less perhaps to the innumerable books on the history of costume which have been published during recent years than to the influence of the films. It is true that the producers of historical films still sometimes make grave blunders, but on the whole they do their best to get things right, and some of the larger companies have permanent staffs of experts and extensive libraries of material. That is one of the reasons why fashion plates are becoming rarer and rarer. Many thousands have made their way to Hollywood, and our only consolation must be the prospect of seeing them come to life before our eyes, to see this favourite or that simpering in the robes of the ’forties or sweeping majestic in voluminous draperies through the salons of the Second Empire.
Fashion plates are almost exclusively a nineteenth-century thing, which is one reason for limiting the present survey to that period. They hardly exist before the French Revolution; by 1900 they have been replaced by mechanical reproductions which have none of the charm of the genuine fashion plate.
The fashion plate properly so-called is an etching, or a line engraving, or a lithograph, coloured by hand, and some of the best reach a very high degree of aesthetic value. Many of them are to be found in the ladies’ magazines which made their sudden appearance in the last years of the eighteenth century, the notion that women could want a magazine devoted to their own interests being then a very revolutionary idea indeed. One of the earliest of such journals was The Lady’s Monthly Museum, which came out first in 1798. It soon had rivals in Le Beau Monde and La Belle Assemblée, and the last contains, for the first twenty or thirty years of the nineteenth century, some of the best fashion plates ever published. The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine belongs to a later period. It has all the ‘improving’ characteristics of the early Victorian age, but it is still a valuable reflection of the frivolities of fashion. In later journals such as The Young Englishwoman we find rumours of ‘emancipation’ and even hints of something called ‘the Vote’, but they still have fashion plates. It is curious to note that about the middle of the century most of the English fashion magazines gave up trying to produce their own plates or even to copy those of France. They contented themselves with importing French plates from such papers as Le Follet, Courrier des Salons, sometimes not even troubling to re-engrave the titles. The leading French journals were Le Moniteur de la Mode, Les Modes Parisiennes, Le Journal des Demoiselles, Le Petit Courrier des Dames, and Le Magazin des Demoiselles, and the plates which they issued are among the best that have ever appeared. The principal artists were Hélène Leloir, Compte Calix, and Anaïs Toudouze, and