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    Investigations of the Flor Sherry Process
    Investigations of the Flor Sherry Process
    Investigations of the Flor Sherry Process
    Ebook107 pages1 hour

    Investigations of the Flor Sherry Process

    By William V. Cruess

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    About this ebook

    This book comprises a detailed investigation of the 'Flor Sherry Process', with information on acidity, oxidation, fining and stabilizing, effect of temperature, and much more besides. Written in clear language and full of useful information and helpful diagrams and tables, this text will be of considerable value to anyone interested in the production of flor sherry. It is not to be missed by the discerning collector. The chapters of this volume include: 'Classes of Spanish Sherry', 'The Vintage in Jerez', 'First Classification', 'The Solera System', 'The Film', 'Blending and Finishing', 'Spoilage', 'Properties of Flor Yeasts', 'Classification', 'Microscopial Appearance', 'Chalon and Jarez Compared', 'Alcohol Tolerance of Film', etcetera. We are proud to republish this vintage text, now complete with a new and specially commissioned introduction on wine-making.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 9, 2016
    ISBN9781473359253
    Investigations of the Flor Sherry Process

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      Investigations of the Flor Sherry Process - William V. Cruess

      wineries.

      SPANISH SHERRY MAKING

      SHERRY derives its name from the city of Jerez de la Frontera in the province of Cadiz in southern Spain. According to Spanish law, only wines made in this city and in a small specified area surrounding it are entitled to the name Jerez, Xerez, or sherry. The most popular Spanish sherries today are very pale to light amber in color, and dry, or nearly so.

      CLASSES OF SPANISH SHERRY

      In their natural, unblended condition, Spanish sherries fall into two main classes, FINO and OLOROSO, each having several sub-types.

      Fino-type wines are made with the use of flor yeast, oloroso without it. Blending of the two types is sometimes done.

      Some fino wines are bottled as such after suitable blending and finishing, and are available under brand names. They are pale to very pale in color, dry or nearly so, and of pronounced, rather pungent bouquet and flavor, with a powerful, characteristic, and lasting after-taste.

      Manzanilla wines are fino-type wines made at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, about 18 miles northwest of Jerez de la Frontera. Grapes for manzanilla are grown on sandy soil and have a lower sugar content than those of Jerez. These wines are very pale, and are best when very dry. For export, brandy is added.

      Amontillado, a fino, is probably the most famous of all types of the wines of Jerez. While it is basically a fino sub-type, it is often considered in a category of its own. In its early years it is aged under flor film as a fino. Because of increase in alcohol content, naturally or by fortification, the flor yeast is eventually no longer able to grow, and continued aging without the flor film gives amontillado its characteristic deep color and the bite or sharpness greatly appreciated by connoisseurs.

      If held in wood a sufficient time, amontillado wines become dark brown in color, lose most or all of their fino character. and become distinctly bitter. They are then known as vinos viejos, or old wines, which are of great value in blending.

      (Received for publication December 24, 1947)

      Oloroso type wines, because of their naturally high alcohol content (16 per cent or above by volume), or because of fortification of the new wine, develop without flor film. They are full-bodied, full-flavored wines before blending, and lack the peculiar pungency of flavor and bouquet of the finos. They are darker in color than most wines of the fino class. However, very old amontillado and very old oloroso wines resemble each other markedly in color, bitterness and lack of fino pungency. According to de Bobadilla (1947), alcohol content of oloroso wines is raised to about 18 per cent before they enter the solera.

      Fig. 1. A good vine of Palomino grapes, Jerez de la Frontera. (Courtesy of Pedro Domecq.)

      For blending with wines of the fino and oloroso groups, several other classes of wines are made in Jerez. One of these is vino de color, which, de Castella (1926) states, is made by adding arrope, a dark brown, caramelized grape concentrate, to fresh or fermenting must, and fermenting out nearly all of the sugar, or by adding arrope to the wine. This wine is very dark in color, and bitter and caramelized in flavor. When sufficiently aged it is very useful in blending.

      Pedro Ximénèz (or Pedro Jimenez or P.X.) is a very sweet blending wine made by fermentation of the very sweet must of Pedro Ximénèz grapes that have been partially dried in the sun. It is used to impart sweetness to other sherries.

      Dulce apogado and mistela are similar to California Angelica and are made by fortifying unfermented or slightly fermented white musts.

      THE VINTAGE IN JEREZ

      Herein is described what grapes are grown and how they are handled in Jerez, in an account drawn mainly from the writings of de Castella (1909, 1926), Gonzales-Gordon (1935), Bobadilla (1940, 1943, 1944), and personal communications of Dr. M. A. Amerine and others.

      The Palomino is the grape most used for sherry in Jerez.

      This variety, also called Listan, is used to make wines of both fino and oloroso types. It is grown in California as Napa Golden Chasselas, as well as Palomino, and in Australia as Sweet Water.

      Another white variety, Pedro Ximénèz, is used for sweet blending wine. Other less important varieties are Mantuo de Pilas, Mantuo Castellano, Albillo, Perrano, and Cañocazo.

      A white calcareous soil produces the best grapes for sherry. This soil, of Miocene age, is known locally as albariza, and is of exceptionally high calcium content. Vines grown on it give a low yield, but produce grapes of the highest quality. Barros soils are more extensive, and are a mixture of clay with limestone soil, or with sand. Barros soils are said to produce much heavier crops than do the albariza soils. Arenas soils are very sandy, and in the Sanlúcar district produce Palomino grapes used in making manzanilla wines. Vines in the Jerez area are planted close together, pruned very low, and grown without irrigation.

      Harvesting begins in September and continues to mid-October.

      The grapes are cut at desired maturity (after the main stems have become brown) with short-bladed knives, rather than with clippers, and are placed in small shallow wooden boxes with handles, known as tinetos, or in small baskets. The tineto holds about one arroba (about 25

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