Seasons in a Vermont Vineyard: The Shelburne Vineyard Cookbook
By Lisa Cassell-Arms and David Seaver
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About this ebook
Lisa Cassell-Arms
An avid cook, with years of experience cooking for friends and family, Lisa is passionate about food and wine--and the delightful and surprising combinations they make together. Lisa has a background in marketing and design, experience in catering and a range of cooking education sprinkled throughout. She lives, works and cooks in Shelburne, Vermont.
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Seasons in a Vermont Vineyard - Lisa Cassell-Arms
Published by American Palate
A Division of The History Press
Charleston, SC
www.historypress.net
Copyright © 2017 by Lisa Cassell-Arms
All rights reserved
Photographs by David Seaver
First published 2014
The History Press edition 2017
e-book edition 2017
ISBN 978.1.43966.070.6
Library of Congress Control Number: 2016952744
print edition ISBN 9781.46713.787.4
Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the author or The History Press. The author and The History Press disclaim all liability in connection with the use of this book.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
CONTENTS
Contributors
Acknowledgements
Preface
Our Story: Viticulture and Winemaking in Vermont
Pairing Wine and Food
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
A Commitment to Community
Basics
Recipe Contributors
Resources
About the Author
CONTRIBUTORS
The team at Shelburne Vineyard is composed of a dedicated and talented group of individuals who have a passion for excellence and a love of Vermont, its land and community. Thank you to all the wonderful folks there who shared recipes, articles and wine wisdom, including Ken and Gail Albert, Scott Prom, Ethan Joseph, Sam Coppola, Rhiannon Johnson, Macy Mullican, Steve Chick and the tasting room staff. Thank you also to Ashley Arcury for her input early in the project.
Important contributions to the content of this book, both in print and in kind, are listed below:
Ken Albert, Owner/Founder—Our Story: Viticulture and Winemaking in Vermont
Ethan Joseph, Winemaker/Vineyard Manager—Bottling,
Canopy Management,
Harvest,
Winter Pruning
Gail Albert, Director of Marketing—A Commitment to Community
Rhiannon Johnson, Tasting Room Manager—Pairing Wine and Food
Scott Prom, Partner/Winemaker
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
My sincere thanks go to the people who contributed in so many ways to the creation of this book. First, thanks to David Seaver for his gorgeous photography. Many thanks to Sarah Strauss for her encyclopedic knowledge of food and cooking, recipe development, tireless recipe testing and honest feedback. I am grateful to my dear friend Jean Hessel, an avid and devoted cook whose contagious enthusiasm inspired me from afar. A huge thank you goes to Alli Neal for her editing assistance, to Gordon Troy for his legal expertise and to Rebecca Solheim for her valuable feedback early on. And many, many thanks to the following people who tested additional recipes for me: Chris Riley, Lynn Younquist, Deena Frankel, Sandy Lewis, Dana Cassell, Amy Kirk, Edye Graning, Katie Arms, Olivia Arms, Anne Carvey, Lynda Van Kleeck, Jill Spell and Judy Hill.
Heartfelt thanks go to my husband, Steve, and our kids, Katie, Olivia and Nick, who provided honest criticism, as well as loving support, as they ate their way through this fun project. And finally, a huge debt of gratitude goes to my parents, Alan and Helen. My mother is, above all and beyond a doubt, the very best cook. She embodies the heart that is at the center of every meal, lovingly shared with family and friends.
—LISA CASSELL-ARMS
PREFACE
The seed for this cookbook was firmly planted in my head a few years back when I was entertaining some out-of-town friends. They were unfamiliar with Vermont wine—shocked, in fact, that wine grapes could be grown here at all and that outstanding wine could indeed be made from them.
I told them about the new hybrid grape varietals that were being cultivated in Vermont with great success. I explained that Marquette, a red hybrid grape that boasts Pinot Noir parentage, could survive winter temperatures that dipped to twenty-five degrees below zero and still produce excellent, big, dry reds. I sang the praises of ice wine and described how certain grape varietals are allowed to hang on the vine until they freeze and then picked and pressed while frozen to extract only the sugars, resulting in a concentrated rich and sweet elixir that is the best thing you’ve ever tasted with blue cheese.
But some people need to taste to believe. I decided to prepare a dinner that would highlight our wines, attempting to craft a menu that would bring out the best in each food and wine combination from first course to cheese course. Four courses and four wines later, we had found our favorites, our friends had become devotees and I was fermenting ideas for a cookbook in which I could share some of my own favorite wine-friendly recipes, along with some time-honored dishes from family, friends and Shelburne Vineyard staff.
As a passionate home cook, I am sent into a flurry of cooking activity by each new Shelburne Vineyard wine release. I’m always looking for ways to use wine in a dish, as well as finding the best wine to pair with a dish. I’ve learned that simple, rustic foods are often best and really allow the wine to shine. The recipes in this book come from varied sources, some original, some adapted and some passed down for generations. I invite you to try them and pair them with some of the exciting northern varietal wines we and our friends at other Vermont wineries produce. Remember, the wine-pairing suggestions I’ve made here are simply that: suggestions. The right wine is always the wine you like to drink.
In this book, I attempt to evoke not only the romance of a lush vineyard heavy with fruit but also a sense of the agricultural and work cycles that mark each season. Some of the seasonal activities of the winery are explored in brief sidebar articles by our winemaker, Ethan Joseph. Tasting room manager Rhiannon Johnson provides some essential tips on wine- and food-pairing principles, co-owner Gail Albert shares her thoughts about sustainability and community identity and owner/founder Ken Albert writes about the beginnings of the vineyard, as well as Vermont viticulture at present and in the future.
Vermont is a food and wine lover’s paradise. From its verdant and fertile farmland, regional specialties are emerging. We have an abundant selection of locally raised meats, poultry, produce and fruits available, as well as world-class artisanal cheeses, award-winning spirits, ciders, beers and, of course, wine. Shelburne Vineyard is recognized as a pioneer in cold-climate winemaking, producing expertly crafted wines from Vermont and regionally grown hybrid grapes. Along with our fellow Vermont winemakers, we seek to celebrate a new generation of outstanding wines and the affinity of food and wine produced from the same northern terroir.
OUR STORY
Viticulture and Winemaking in Vermont
Ken Albert, Founder and Winemaker, Shelburne Vineyard
Grape growing and winemaking in Vermont? It’s been going on for millennia in the Mediterranean and for a couple of hundred years in California and New York. In Vermont, modern wine grape history began in 1997, the year Snow Farm Winery on Grand Isle and Boyden Valley Winery in Cambridge, Vermont, began their operations, followed by Shelburne Vineyard in 1998. All three were inspired by Quebec. Commercial-scale grape growing had begun in Quebec a mere decade earlier, and each of these three Vermont pioneers was guided by a Quebec vigneron.
Shelburne Vineyard’s beginnings were sparked by a short business trip I took to Quebec for my then employer, IBM. I had been growing grapes in my Shelburne backyard with dreams of starting a winery. On that fateful trip, I discovered numerous vineyards and wineries on southern Quebec roads. I asked myself, If they could do it in Quebec, why not Vermont?
Our first planting was in the spring of 1998, on a three-acre site leased from Shelburne Farms with spectacular views of Lake Champlain. Grapes take three years from planting to first fruit, and it took a bit of convincing to get Shelburne Farms to agree to a long-term lease with this onetime city boy. We planted grapes that thrived most seasons. But in seasons after severe winters, these marginally hardy vines yielded meager fruit.