The Rough Guide to Sri Lanka (Travel Guide eBook)

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Introduction to

Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka has seduced travellers for centuries. Marco Polo called it the finest island of its size in the world, while successive waves of Indian, Arab and European traders and adventurers flocked to its palm-fringed shores, attracted by reports of rare spices, precious stones and magnificent elephants. Poised just above the Equator amid the balmy waters of the Indian Ocean, the island has inspired a sense of romance even in those who have never visited the place. Fancifully minded geographers, poring over maps of the island, likened its outline to a teardrop falling from the tip of India or to the shape of a pearl (the more practical Dutch compared it to a leg of ham), while even the name given to the island by early Arab traders, Serendib, gave rise to the English word serendipity – an unexpected discovery leading to a happy end.

Marco Polo’s bold claim still holds true. Sri Lanka packs an extraordinary variety of attractions into its modest physical dimensions. Idyllic beaches fringe the coast, while the interior boasts a compelling variety of landscapes ranging from wildlife-rich lowland jungles, home to extensive populations of elephants, leopards and rare endemic bird species, to the misty heights of the hill country, swathed in immaculately manicured tea plantations. There are plenty of man-made attractions too. Sri Lanka boasts more than two thousand years of recorded history, and the remarkable achievements of the early Sinhalese civilization can still be seen in the sequence of ruined cities and great religious monuments that litter the northern plains.

The glories of this early Buddhist civilization continue to provide a symbol of national pride, while Sri Lanka’s historic role as the world’s oldest stronghold of Theravada Buddhism lends it a unique cultural identity which permeates life at every level. There’s more to Sri Lanka than just Buddhists, however. The island’s geographical position at one of the most important staging posts of Indian Ocean trade laid it open to a uniquely wide range of influences, as generations of Arab, Malay, Portuguese, Dutch and British settlers subtly transformed its culture, architecture and cuisine, while the long-established Tamil population in the north have established a vibrant Hindu culture that owes more to India than to the Sinhalese south.

It was, for a while, this very diversity that threatened to tear the country apart. For almost three decades Sri Lanka was the site of one of Asia’s most pernicious civil wars, as the Sri Lankan Army and the LTTE, or Tamil Tigers, battled it out in the island’s north and east, until the final victory of government forces in 2009. The decade of postwar peace since then hasn’t always been easy, but the island is now looking once again to the future with a fresh sense of optimism and energy.

Where to go

All visits to Sri Lanka currently begin at the international airport just outside Colombo, the island’s capital and far and away its largest city – a sprawling metropolis whose contrasting districts offer an absorbing introduction to Sri Lanka’s myriad cultures and multilayered history. Many visitors head straight for one of the west coast’s beaches, whose innumerable resort hotels still power the country’s tourist industry. Destinations include the package-holiday resorts of Negombo and Beruwala, the more stylish Bentota, and the old hippy hangout of Hikkaduwa. More unspoilt countryside can be found north of Colombo at the Kalpitiya peninsula and in the vast Wilpattu National Park nearby, home to leopards, elephants and sloth bears.

Beyond Hikkaduwa, the south coast is significantly less developed. Gateway to the region is the marvellous old Dutch city of Galle, Sri Lanka’s finest colonial town, beyond which lies a string of fine beaches including the ever-expanding villages of Unawatuna and Mirissa along with quieter stretches of coast at Weligama and Tangalla, as well as the lively provincial capital of Matara, boasting further Dutch remains. East of here, Tissamaharama serves as a convenient base for the outstanding Yala and Bundala national parks, and for the fascinating temple town of Kataragama.

Fact file

• Lying a few degrees north of the Equator, Sri Lanka is slightly smaller than Ireland and a little larger than the US state of West Virginia.

• Sri Lanka achieved independence from Britain in 1948, and did away with its colonial name, Ceylon, in 1972. The country has had a functioning democracy since independence, and in 1960 elected the world’s first female prime minister.

• Sri Lanka’s population of 22.5 million is a mosaic of different ethnic and religious groups, the two largest being the mainly Buddhist Sinhalese (75 percent), and the predominantly Hindu Tamils (15 percent); there are also considerable numbers of Christians and Muslims. Sinhala, Tamil and English are all officially recognized languages.

• Sri Lankans enjoy a healthy life expectancy of 77 years and a literacy rate of almost 93 percent, but also have one of the world’s highest suicide rates.

• Cricket is a countrywide obsession, although the official national sport is actually volleyball.

• The country’s main export is clothing, followed by tea; coconuts, cinnamon and precious gems are also important. Revenues from tourism are vital to the national economy, while remittances from the hundreds of thousands of Sri Lankans working overseas (mainly in the Gulf) are also significant.

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ASIAN ELEPHANT, MINNERIYA NATIONAL PARK

Sri Lankan Buddhism

Buddhism runs deep in Sri Lanka.  The island was one of the first places to convert to the religion, in 247 BC, and has remained unswervingly faithful in the two thousand years since. As such, Sri Lanka is often claimed to be the world’s oldest Buddhist country, and Buddhism continues to permeate the practical life and spiritual beliefs of the majority of the island’s Sinhalese population. Buddhist temples can be found everywhere, often decorated with superb shrines, statues and murals, while the sight of Sri Lanka’s orange-robed monks is one of the island’s enduring visual images. Buddhist places of pilgrimage – the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy, the revered footprint of the Buddha at Adam’s Peak, and the Sri Maha Bodhi at Anuradhapura – also play a vital role in sustaining the faith, while the national calendar is punctuated with religious holidays and festivals ranging from the monthly full-moon poya days through to more elaborate annual celebrations, often taking the form of enormous processions (peraheras), during which locals parade through the streets, often accompanied by elaborately costumed elephants. For more on Buddhism, turn to our Contexts chapter.

Inland from Colombo rise the verdant highlands of the hill country, enveloped in the tea plantations (first introduced by the British) which still play a vital role in the island’s economy. The symbolic heart of the region is Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second city and the cultural capital of the Sinhalese, its colourful traditions embodied by the famous Temple of the Tooth and the magnificent Esala Perahera, Sri Lanka’s most colourful festival. South of here, close to the highest point of the island, lies the old British town of Nuwara Eliya, centre of the country’s tea industry and a convenient base for visits to the spectacular Horton Plains National Park. A string of towns and villages – including Ella and Haputale – along the southern edge of the hill country offer an appealing mixture of magnificent views, wonderful walks and olde-worlde British colonial charm. Close to the hill country’s southwestern edge, the soaring summit of Adam’s Peak is another of the island’s major pilgrimage sites, while the gem-mining centre of Ratnapura to the south serves as a starting point for visits to the elephant-rich Uda Walawe National Park and the rare tropical rainforest of Sinharaja.

North of Kandy, the hill country tumbles down into the arid plains of the northern dry zone. This area, known as the Cultural Triangle, was the location of Sri Lanka’s first great civilization, and its extraordinary scatter of ruined palaces, temples and dagobas still gives a compelling sense of this glorious past. Foremost among these are the fascinating ruined cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the marvellous cave temples of Dambulla, the hilltop shrines and dagobas of Mihintale and the extraordinary rock citadel of Sigiriya.

The two main gateways to the east are the cities of Trincomalee and Batticaloa, each boasting a clutch of colonial remains backed by bays and lagoons. Elsewhere, the east’s huge swathe of coastline remains largely undeveloped. A cluster of upmarket new resort hotels dot the seafront at Passekudah, north of Batticaloa, although most visitors prefer the more laidback beachside charms of sleepy Nilaveli and Uppuveli, just north of Trincomalee, or the chilled-out surfing centre of Arugam Bay, at the southern end of the coast. Further afield, the north remains relatively untouristed, although increasing numbers of visitors are making the journey to the absorbing city of Jaffna, while a side trip to remote Mannar, closer to India than Colombo, is another enticing possibility.

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GALLE

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When to go

Sri Lanka’s climate is rather complicated for such a small country, due to the fact that the island is affected by two separate monsoons – though this also means that there is usually good weather somewhere on the island, at most times of the year. It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that the basic pattern described below can vary significantly from year to year, and that global warming has disrupted these already complex weather patterns.

The basic rainfall pattern is as follows. The main southwest (yala) monsoon brings rain to the west and southwest coasts and hill country from April or May to September (wettest from April to June). The less severe northeast (maha) monsoon hits the east coast from November to March (wettest from November to December); there’s also a inter-monsoonal period of unsettled weather preceding the Maha monsoon in October and November during which heavy rainfall and thunderstorms can occur anywhere across the island. In practical terms, this means that the best time to visit the west and south coasts and hill country is from December to March, while the best weather on the east coast is from April or May to September.

Sri Lanka’s position close to the Equator means that temperatures remain fairly constant year-round. Coastal and lowland areas enjoy average daytime temperatures of around 26–30°C (often climbing up well into the 30°Cs during the hottest part of the day). Temperatures decrease with altitude, reducing to a temperate 18–22°C in Kandy, and a pleasantly mild 14–17°C in Nuwara Eliya and the highest parts of the island – nights in the hills can be quite chilly, with temperatures sometimes falling close to freezing. Humidity is high everywhere, rising to a sweltering ninety percent at times in the southwest, and averaging sixty to eighty percent across the rest of the island.

Average monthly temperatures and rainfall

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Author picks

Our much-travelled authors have visited every corner of Sri Lanka in order to uncover the very best the island has to offer. Here are some of their personal highlights.

Classic journeys Ride the hill-country train through tea plantations to Badulla or drive the A9 north to Jaffna.

Multi-faith island Make a pilgrimage to one of Sri Lanka’s myriad religious destinations, including Adam’s Peak, the church of Madhu, or the spiritual melting-pot of Kataragama, held sacred by Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims alike.

Colonial Ceylon Step back in time amid the colonial streetscapes of Galle, Colombo Fort or at the old British tea-town of Nuwara Eliya.

Once more unto the beach Escape the crowds at the unspoiled southern beaches of Talalla or Kalametiya.

Wildlife on land and at sea Experience Sri Lanka’s wonderful range of fauna with highlights including whales at Mirissa, turtles at Rekawa, dolphins at Kalpitiya, birds in Sinharaja, elephants at Minneriya and leopards at Yala.

Boutique bliss Crash out in style at one of the island’s boutique hotels, ranging from modern beachside villas like Rock Villa in Bentota to atmospheric colonial-era lodgings like Ferncliff in Nuwara Eliya.

Flavours of Sri Lanka Dive into a hopper, unpack a lamprais, crunch some chilli crab or feast on a classic rice and curry – Nuga Gama in Colombo is a great place to get your taste buds oriented.

Rugged rambling Take a walk on the wild side through the spectacular hill country at Adam’s Peak, Horton Plains or the Knuckles Range – Sri Lanka at its most scenically dramatic.

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NUWARA ELIYA

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YALA NATIONAL PARK

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25

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Sri Lanka has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights, including astonishing religious and historic sites, unforgettable wildlife, scenery and beaches, and vibrant festivals. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more; the coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide section.

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1 CRICKET

Join the crowds of cricket-crazy spectators for a Test match in Colombo or Kandy.

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2 ADAM’S PEAK

One of Sri Lanka’s foremost pilgrimage sites, this summit bears the revered impression of the Buddha’s footprint, and offers one of the island’s most magical views.

Gavin Thomas/Rough Guides

3 BIG BUDDHAS

The Buddha’s superhuman attributes are captured in the statues dotting the island, from the ancient figures of Aukana, Sasseruwa and Polonnaruwa’s Gal Vihara to the contemporary colossi at Dambulla and Wehurukannala.

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4 GALLE

Sri Lanka’s most perfectly preserved colonial townscape, with sedate streets of personable Dutch-era villas enclosed by a chain of imposing ramparts.

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5 YALA NATIONAL PARK

The most popular national park, home to elephants and the island’s largest population of leopards.

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6 WORLD’S END

Marking the point at which the hill country’s southern escarpment plunges sheer for almost 1km to the plains below, these dramatic cliffs offer one of the finest views in the hill country.

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7 RICE AND CURRY

Eat your way through this classic Sri Lankan feast, with its mouthwatering selection of dishes and flavours.

Gehan De Silva Wijeyeratne

8 BIRDS

Sri Lanka is one of Asia’s classic birdwatching destinations, with species ranging from bee-eaters and blue magpies to colourful kingfishers and majestic hornbills.

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9 KATARAGAMA

Join the crowds thronging to the nightly temple ceremonies at this pilgrimage town, held sacred by Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims alike.

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10 ANURADHAPURA

This vast, mysterious ruined city bears witness to the great Sinhalese civilization that flourished here for some two thousand years.

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11 BAWA HOTELS

With their blend of modern chic and superb natural settings, the hotels of architect Geoffrey Bawa exemplify contemporary Sri Lankan style.

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12 SIGIRIYA

Climb the towering rock outcrop of Sigiriya, home to the fascinating remains of one of the island’s former capitals, complete with ancient graffiti and elaborate water gardens.

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13 ELLA

One of the island’s most popular destinations, with marvellous views and walks among the surrounding tea plantations and hills.

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14 THE PETTAH

Colombo’s colourful, chaotic bazaar district offers an exhilarating slice of Asian life.

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15 WHALE- AND DOLPHIN-WATCHING

Take to the waves in search of blue and sperm whales, or pods of spinner dolphins.

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16 POLONNARUWA

Quite simply the island’s finest collection of ancient Sinhalese art and architecture.

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17 BENTOTA

The unspoiled southern end of Bentota beach is home to a fine selection of luxury beachside hotels.

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18 KANDY ESALA PERAHERA

One of Asia’s most spectacular festivals, with huge processions of magnificently caparisoned elephants, ear-splitting troupes of Kandyan drummers and assorted dancers and acrobats.

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19 SINHARAJA

Unique region of pristine rainforest, home to towering trees, opulent orchids and rare endemic birds, lizards and amphibians.

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20 AYURVEDA

Sri Lanka’s ancient system of healthcare uses herbal medicines and traditional techniques to promote holistic well-being.

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21 ARUGAM BAY

This remote east coast village has great sand and surf, lots of local wildlife and an appealingly chilled-out atmosphere.

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22 KANDYAN DANCING AND DRUMMING

Traditional Sinhalese culture at its most exuberant, with brilliantly costumed dancers performing stylized dances to an accompaniment of explosively energetic drumming.

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23 DAMBULLA

These five magical cave temples are a treasure box of Sri Lankan Buddhist art, sumptuously decorated with a fascinating array of statues, shrines and the country’s finest collection of murals.

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24 MIRISSA

Laidback beachside village with a fine stretch of sand and world-class whale-watching.

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25 KANDY

Beautifully situated amid the central highlands, this historic city remains the island’s most important repository of traditional Sinhalese culture, exemplified by the great Esala Perahera festival and the Temple of the Tooth.

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Itineraries

Sri Lanka is one of the biggest little countries in the world. The island’s modest size means that it’s possible to get a good taste of what’s on offer in just a couple of weeks, although, equally, attractions are crammed together so densely that you could easily spend a year in the place and still not see everything.

THE GRAND TOUR

Two weeks suffice to see Sri Lanka’s headline attractions, while an extra week would allow you to add on the places listed in the itineraries below.

Kandy Start in Kandy, cultural capital of Sri Lanka and a marvellous showcase of Sinhalese religious art, architecture and dance.

Dambulla Drive north to the cave temples at Dambulla, crammed with Buddhist statues and decorated with Sri Lanka’s finest murals.

Sigiriya The nearby rock citadel at Sigiriya is perhaps Sri Lanka’s single most dramatic attraction: the remains of a fifth-century palace perched on the summit of the vertiginous Lion Rock.

Polonnaruwa Another short drive leads to the marvellous ruined city of Polonnaruwa, home to some of medieval Sri Lanka’s finest art and architecture, including the giant Buddha statues of the Gal Vihara.

Horton Plains National Park Return to Kandy and then continue to Nuwara Eliya for a trip to Horton Plains National Park, a marvellously rugged stretch of unspoiled hill country culminating in the spectacular view at World’s End.

Ella Continue to lively little Ella village, set in a dramatic location amid tea plantations on the edge of the hill country.

Yala National Park Drive south to Yala National Park, home to one of the world’s densest populations of leopards, and much more besides.

Mirissa Spend some time on the beach and go on a whale-watching trip at the village of Mirissa.

Galle Continue around the coast to the city of Galle and its time-warped old Dutch Fort – colonial Sri Lanka at its most perfectly preserved.

Colombo Finish with a day or two in the nation’s energetic capital.

WILDLIFE AND NATURE

The following itinerary, which picks up on some of the best natural attractions not covered in the Grand Tour, could be done in a week, at a push, and could thus be combined with other attractions en route during a fortnight’s visit to the island.

The Knuckles Range Hike from Kandy into the rugged Knuckles Range, one of the island’s most beautiful and biodiverse areas.

Nuwara Eliya Head south to this venerable old colonial town in the heart of the hill country, with spectacular walks in the surrounding countryside.

Horton Plains National Park Sri Lanka’s most scenically stunning national park: a misty mix of moorland and cloudforest, home to rare indigenous flora and fauna.

Haputale Dramatically perched on the edge of the southern hill country and with fine hiking through the surrounding tea plantations, particularly the walk down from nearby Lipton’s Seat.

Bundala National Park One of Sri Lanka’s premier birdwatching destinations, spread out around a stunning string of coastal lagoons.

Rekawa Watch majestic marine turtles haul themselves ashore to lay their eggs on beautiful Rekawa beach.

Uda Walawe National Park Superb elephant-watching opportunities, either in the wild or at the attached Elephant Transit Home.

Sinharaja Stunning area of unspoiled rainforest, home to an internationally significant array of rare endemic flora and fauna.

BUDDHISM AND BEACHES

A slightly offbeat two-week alternative to the Grand Tour, featuring fewer mainstream destinations and mixing religion, culture and wildlife.

Kalpitiya Superb dolphin-watching, kitesurfing and some of the island’s finest eco-lodges on beautiful Alankuda beach.

Wilpattu National Park Enormous and very peaceful park famous for its leopards and elephants.

Anuradhapura The greatest city in Sri Lankan history, packed with monuments from over a thousand years of the island’s past.

Mihintale The birthplace of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, with a cluster of absorbing monuments clinging to a jungle-covered hillside.

Polonnaruwa Medieval Sri Lankan art and architecture at its finest, from the flamboyant Vatadage to the brooding statues of the Gal Vihara.

Batticaloa Vibrant but little-visited east coast town, famous for its singing fish and with a fine beach and lagoon.

Arugam Bay This quirky village is one of the most appealing places to hang out for a few days around the coast.

Kataragama Vibrant multi-faith pilgrimage town, a holy place for Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims.

Adam’s Peak The strenuous climb to the top of Adam’s Peak is the island’s ultimate pilgrimage, rewarded by a glimpse of the Buddha’s own footprint at the summit.

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HAPUTALE

Basics

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Eating and drinking

Health

The media

Festivals and public holidays

Sport and outdoor activities

National parks, reserves and eco-tourism

Cultural values and etiquette

Shopping

Travelling with children

Costs

Travel essentials

Getting there

Unless you arrive on a cruise ship, the only way to get to Sri Lanka is to fly into Bandaranaike International Airport (BMI) at Katunayake, just north of Colombo – at least pending the unlikely resumption of direct flights to Mattala Rajapakse airport at Hambantota (see below) or international ferries between Sri Lanka and India. Air fares remain fairly constant year-round, although the further ahead you book your flight, the better chance you have of getting a good deal.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

The only nonstop scheduled flights from the UK thaiairways.com).

Travelling from Ireland, you can either make your way to Heathrow and pick up an onward connection there, or fly from Dublin via one of the three Gulf cities that have direct connections with Colombo, currently Dubai (Emirates), Abu Dhabi (Etihad) and Doha (Qatar Airways). Scheduled fares from London to Colombo start at around £500 return year-round.

Flights from the US and Canada

It’s a long journey from North America to Sri Lanka. The flight from North America to Sri Lanka takes around twenty hours minimum, necessitating at least one change of plane. From the east coastqatarairways.com), Boston (Emirates, Qatar), and Washington and Toronto (both Emirates and Etihad).

Travelling from the west coast, the most direct routes go via east or Southeast Asia, stopping in Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Bangkok, Shanghai or Guangzhou, all of which have nonstop connections on to Colombo. There are also one-stop services to Colombo via the Gulf from Los Angeles (Emirates, Etihad, Qatar), San Francisco (Emirates) and Seattle (Emirates). Other USA cities with one-stop connections to Sri Lanka via the Gulf include Chicago (Emirates, Etihad, Qatar), Atlanta (Qatar), Dallas (Emirates, Etihad), and Orlando and Fort Lauderdale (both Emirates).

Fares to Colombo start at around $900 from New York, $1000 from Los Angeles, and Can$1400 from Toronto and Vancouver.

Flights from Australia and New Zealand

The only nonstop flight between Australia srilankan.com). Otherwise, the most direct routings to Colombo are via Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. There are also a few one-stop options from New Zealand jetstar.com), who operate flights to Singapore (from Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Brisbane) and to Bangkok (from Sydney and Melbourne), from where there are direct connections to Colombo. Fares from Sydney to Colombo with most carriers generally start at around Aus$800, and from Auckland at around NZ$1300.

How do you solve a problem like MRIA?

A few miles outside the southern town of Hambantota, the gleaming Mattala Rajapaksa International Airport (MRIA) flydubai.com, via Colombo), and according to latest rumours the hangars are now being used to store not planes, but paddy.

SRI LANKA BY BOAT

The ferry service that formerly connected Talaimannar in northern Sri Lanka and Rameswaram in southern India was suspended at the outbreak of the civil war in 1983. Rumours that ferries would be restarted did the rounds constantly following the 2002 ceasefire, although in the end it wasn’t until 2011 that services finally resumed, sailing between Colombo and Tuticorin. Sadly, after the long wait, the new ferry company lasted just six months before collapsing due to commercial difficulties. Rumours of the ferry’s revival continue to surface regularly (most recently in 2017, when the state government of Tamil Nadu attempted to initiate talks on the subject), although judging by past events, it might be quite some time before this particular ship leaves harbour – if it ever does.

Pending the revival of the ferry, short of hitching a ride on a commercial vessel, the only way to get to Sri Lanka by boat is to take one of the increasing number of cruises which now visit the island, docking at Colombo, Galle and Hambantota.

Flights from the rest of Asia

Sri Lanka isn’t normally considered part of the overland Asian trail, although the island is well connected with other countries in South and Southeast Asiacathaypacific.com); and Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou with SriLankan. There are also direct connections to many places in the Gulfomanair.com)

Organized tours

Organized guided tours of the island – either with your own car and driver, or as part of a larger tour group – can be arranged through numerous companies both in Sri Lanka and abroad. Tours obviously take virtually all the hassle out of travelling. The downside is that they tend to be much of a muchness and you might also end up in a large group.

Almost all the leading international Sri Lankan tour operators are based in the UK; travellers from North America and Australasia shouldn’t have any problems booking tours through these companies, although you might have to organize your own flights. Setting up a tour with a Colombo-based operator is a very viable alternative to arranging one at home, although they may well not work out any cheaper than their overseas rivals.

tour operators in the uk

Ampersand Travel ampersandtravel.com. Wide selection of upmarket cultural, nature and activity holidays.

CaroLanka carolanka.co.uk. Small Sri Lankan specialist offering two general fifteen-day tours, plus customized itineraries.

Insider Tours insider-tours.com. Sri Lanka specialist offering customized, ethical tours in conjunction with local organizations.

On the Go Tours onthegotours.com. Mainstream but inexpensive eight- to fifteen-day group tours.

Red Dot Tours reddottours.com. Leading Sri Lankan specialists offering holidays based around wildlife, adventure, culture, cricket, golf and more, along with wedding and honeymoon packages. They also offer cheap flights and represent an outstanding selection of properties around the island in most price ranges.

Tell Tale Travel telltaletravel.co.uk. A range of private tours aiming to take you off the beaten track, including itineraries in the east, and photographic tours.

Tikalanka tikalanka.com. Tailor-made tours by a small Sri Lanka and Maldives specialist.

TransIndus transindus.co.uk. Leading South Asia specialist offering nine- to sixteen-day, islandwide tours plus customized trips.

Wildlife Worldwide wildlifeworldwide.com. Wildlife-oriented trips, including whale- and dolphin-watching tours.

Tour operators in Sri Lanka

Ayu in the Wild ayuinthewild.com. Bespoke holidays designed to get you under the skin of the island, with special tours including Sri Lanka with kids and unusual slow travel experiences.

Boutique Sri Lanka boutiquesrilanka.com. Huge portfolio of mid- and top-range properties, including a vast selection of villas, plus itineraries customized to suit your interests, from beaches or Ayurveda to nature, surfing and adventure.

Destination Sri Lanka dsltours.com. Reliably excellent, very competitively priced customized islandwide tours by Nimal de Silva, one of Sri Lanka’s most professional and personable driver-guides, and his team.

Eco Team srilankaecotourism.com. Specialist eco-tourism and activity-holiday operator, offering a vast range of water- and land-based activities at locations islandwide – anything from surfing and caving to photography tours and nature weddings.

Firefly fireflysrilanka.com. Sri Lanka’s only tour agency devoted exclusively to family travel, run by leading local expert (and long-term Galle resident) Emma Boyle and offering tailor-made family tours island-wide. Also rents out essential equipment for families travelling with small children.

Jetwing Eco Holidays jetwingeco.com. Sri Lanka’s leading eco-tourism operator, offering a vast range of wildlife and adventure activities including birdwatching, leopard-spotting, whale-watching, trekking, cycling, whitewater rafting and much more. Nature activities are led by an expert team of guides, including some of Sri Lanka’s top naturalists.

Jetwing Travels jetwingtravels.com. Travel division of Sri Lanka’s largest hotel group, with a range of islandwide tours including trekking, cycling and Ayurveda tours.

Soul Riders Tours soulriderstours.com. Specializes in tours on Royal Enfield motorbikes from their bases in Galle and Kandy, as well as Enfield rentals.

Sri Lanka Driver Tours srilankadrivertours.com. Family-run business, with honest, reliable drivers and a small selection of two- to ten-day tours – or create your own.

Sri Lanka in Style srilankainstyle.com. Luxurious tours with unusual and insightful itineraries (including golf, yoga and family) either customized or off the peg and accommodation in some of Sri Lanka’s most magical villas and boutique hotels.

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Visas and entry requirements

Citizens of all countries apart from the Maldives, Singapore and the Seychelles require a visa to visit Sri Lanka. Visas can still be obtained on arrival, although it’s much easier (and significantly cheaper) to apply in advance at eta.gov.lk for an online visa (also known as an ETA, or Electronic Travel Authorization).

The visa is valid for thirty days and for two entries and currently costs $30 if bought online ($20 for citizens of SAARC countries) or $40 if bought on arrival. It’s also possible to get a ninety-day tourist visa either in person or by post from your nearest embassy or consulate. You can also buy a thirty-day business visa online ($40, or $50 or arrival; $30 for SAARC nationals). For all visas your passport must be valid for six months after the date of your arrival.

www.immigration.gov.lk; they’re currently $54 for UK nationals, $16 for citizens of the Republic of Ireland, $30 for Australians, $34.50 for New Zealanders, $50 for Canadians, $100 for US citizens and $44 for South Africans. Conditions for extensions are an onward ticket and proof of sufficient funds, calculated at $15 a day, although a credit card will probably suffice. Expect the whole procedure to take an hour or two. Foreign embassies and consulates are virtually all based in Colombo.

Sri Lankan embassies and consulates

Australia and New Zealand srilanka.embassy.gov.au.

Canada www.canadainternational.gc.ca/sri_lanka.

South Africa dirco.gov.za/colombo.

UK and Ireland gov.uk/world/sri-lanka.

US lk.usembassy.gov.

Sri lanka in the fast lane

Sri Lanka’s nineteenth-century highway infrastructure received a long-overdue upgrade in late 2011 with the opening of the country’s first proper motorway, the E01 Southern Expressway from Colombo to Galle (subsequently extended from Galle to Matara in 2014, and with a further extension to Hambantota currently underway), while 2013 saw the opening of the country’s second motorway, the E03 Colombo–Katunayake Expressway, linking the capital with the international airport. A third expressway, the E02 Outer Circular Expressway (serving as a Colombo ring-road and linking directly to the E01 – but not the E03) followed in 2014, and is also now being extended. The E04 Central Expressway from Colombo to Kandy is due to open in 2020, while there are also plans for an E06 Ruwanpura Expressway, connecting Colombo to Ratnapura and Pelmadulla.

The 350km network will, when finished, transform travel around many parts of the island. The Southern Expressway has already reduced the three-hour-plus slog from Colombo to Galle into a pleasant hour’s drive and made the whole of the southwest and south coasts accessible as never before. Similarly, the Central Expressway to Kandy is also likely to cut current journey times by about two-thirds and significantly reduce onward travel times to other places in the hill country – making many of the travel times given in this book obsolete in the process.

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Getting around

Getting around Sri Lanka is very much a tale of two halves. The construction of the island’s ever-expanding expressway network (see above) has given Sri Lanka its biggest infrastructure upgrade since colonial times and speeded up access to some parts of the country immeasurably. Equally, recent railway improvements mean that major inter-city expresses are now both swift and comfortable. Away from the expressways and major train lines, however, getting around many parts of the island can still be a frustratingly time-consuming process.

Buses are the standard (and often the fastest) means of transport, with services reaching even the remotest corners of the island. Trains offer a more relaxed means of getting about and will get you to many parts of the country – eventually. If you don’t want to put up with the vagaries of public transport, hiring a car and driver can prove a reasonably affordable and extremely convenient way of seeing the island in relative comfort. If you’re really in a rush, domestic flights operated by Cinnamon Air and Helitours offer speedy connections between Colombo and other parts of the island.

Details of getting around by bike and specialist cycle tours are covered in the "Sports and outdoor activities" section.

By bus

Buses are the staple mode of transport in Sri Lanka, and any town of even the remotest consequence will be served by fairly regular connections. Buses come in a variety of forms. The basic distinction is between government or SLTB (Sri Lanka Transport Board) buses and private services.

SLTB buses

Almost all SLTB buses are rattling old TATA vehicles, usually painted red. These are often the oldest and slowest vehicles on the road, but can be slightly more comfortable than private buses in that the conductor won’t feel the same compulsion to squeeze as many passengers on board, or the driver to thrash the vehicle flat out in order to get to the next stop ahead of competing vehicles (accidents caused by rival bus drivers racing one another are not unknown).

Private buses

Private buses come in different forms. At their most basic, they’re essentially the same as SLTB buses, consisting of large, arthritic old rust buckets that stop everywhere; the only difference is that private buses will usually be painted white and emblazoned with the stickers of whichever company runs them. Some private companies operate slightly faster services, large buses known variously as semi-express, express or intercity, which (in theory at least) make fewer stops en route.

At the top end of the scale, private minibuses – often described as express and/or luxury services (although the description should be taken with a large pinch of salt) – offer the fastest way of getting around. These are smaller vehicles with air-conditioning and tinted, curtained windows; luggage usually ends up in the space next to the driver (since there’s nowhere else for it to go), although some conductors might make you put it on the seat next to you, and then charge you an extra fare. In theory, express minibuses only make limited stops at major bus stations en route, although in practice it’s up to the driver and/or conductor as to where they stop and for how long, and how many people they’re willing to cram in.

Fares, timetables and stops

Bus fares, on both private and SLTB services, are extremely low. For journeys on non-express buses, count on around Rs.60–70 per hour’s travel, rising to around Rs.100–120 on express minibuses (more if travelling along an expressway – the Colombo to Galle bus costs around Rs.400). Note that on the latter you may have to pay the full fare for the entire route served by the bus, irrespective of where you get off. If you do want to get off before the end of the journey, let the driver/conductor know when you board.

Exact timings for buses are difficult to pin down. Longer-distance services operate (in theory, at least) according to set timetables; shorter-distance services tend to simply leave when full. Note that on all routes there tend to be considerably more buses early in the day, and that most services tail off over the course of the afternoon. The details given in the Arrival and departure sections in the Guide are an estimate of the total number of buses daily (both private and government). Given journey times represent what you might expect on a good run, without excessive stops to pick up passengers, roadworks or traffic jams en route, although all timings are extremely elastic, and don’t be surprised if some journeys end up taking considerably longer. On longer trips expect the driver to make at least one stop of around twenty minutes at a café en route, especially around lunchtime. Seat reservations are almost unheard of except on Colombo–Jaffna services.

Finding the bus you want can sometimes be tricky. Most buses display their destination in both Sinhala and English, although it’s useful to get an idea of the Sinhala characters you’re looking for. All bus stations have one or more information booths (often unsigned wire-mesh kiosks) where staff can point you in the right direction, as well as providing the latest timetable information. If you arrive at a larger terminal by tuktuk, it’s a good idea to enlist the help of your driver in locating the right bus.

quicker by train or bus?

As a rule of thumb, buses are generally faster than trains, especially once you’ve factored in the possibility of trains running behind schedule; hill-country services from Kandy to Badulla, in particular, are grindingly slow (although very scenic). Exceptions to the bus-faster-than-train rule include the journey between Colombo and Kandy, where express trains are notably quicker than buses (although this will change when the new expressway opens), and services on the new line up to Jaffna, where trains also generally beat the bus. For specific timings, check the train timetables and the Arrival and departure sections for individual destinations in the Guide.

Express services generally only halt at bus terminals or other recognized stops. Other types of services will usually stop wherever there’s a passenger to be picked up – just stand by the roadside and stick an arm out (although it’s best to find an official bus stop if possible – a bus icon on a blue square). If you’re flagging down a bus by the roadside, one final hazard is in getting on. Drivers often don’t stop completely, instead slowing down just enough to allow you to jump aboard. Keep your wits about you, especially if you’re weighed down with heavy luggage, and be prepared to move fast when the bus pulls in.

By train

Originally built by the British during the nineteenth century, Sri Lanka’s train network has seen massive changes over the past decade, transforming from a charmingly antiquated but not particularly useful relic of a bygone era to a comfortable and, on some routes, refreshingly fast way of getting around. The lines to Jaffna and Mannar, closed for decades, were reopened in 2014 and 2015 respectively, while islandwide track improvements and the addition of modern rolling stock (including smart new a/c carriages on intercity lines) have brought the entire system into the twentieth century – although many of the old rust-red-coloured colonial carriages remain in use, and trains on the gorgeous hill- country line are as grindingly slow as ever.

Observation cars and tourist carriages

Some intercity services on the hill-country route from Colombo to Kandy and Badulla carry a special carriage, the so-called observation car, usually at the back of the train and with large panoramic windows offering 360-degree views and seating in rather battered armchair-style seats. All seats are reservable, and get snapped up quickly, especially on the popular Colombo to Kandy run. The fare between Colombo and Kandy is currently Rs.800 one way.

rajadhani.lk) also run special tourist carriages which are attached to a few of the main hill-country and south coast express trains, although their services were suspended at the time of writing and the carriages themselves, although comfortable, have small windows and limited views.

Timings for journeys on some routes vary massively between express services (making only a few stops), standard intercity services, which make more stops, and slow services (such as night mail trains), which halt at practically every station en route. Latest railway timetables seat61.com for more detailed coverage of Sri Lanka’s railways and latest developments.

The train network

The network comprises three principal lines. The coast line runs along the west coast from Puttalam in the north, heading south via Negombo, Colombo, Kalutara, Bentota, Beruwala, Aluthgama, Ambalangoda, Hikkaduwa and Galle to Weligama and Matara (with an extension as far as Kataragama now largely complete). The hill-country line runs from Colombo to Kandy then on to Hatton (for Adam’s Peak), Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya), Haputale, Bandarawela, Ella and Badulla. The northern line runs from Colombo through Kurunegala to Anuradhapura and Vavuniya before terminating at Jaffna. Three additional branches run off this line: the first to Polonnaruwa and Batticaloa, the second to Trincomalee, and the third to Madhu Road, Mannar and Talaimannar.

Trains comprise three classes, though most services consist exclusively of second- and third-class carriages. There’s not actually a huge amount of difference between the two: second-class seats have a bit more padding and there are fans in the carriages. Both second- and third-class seats can be reserved on some trains – the major benefit of pre-booking a seat is that no standing passengers are allowed in reserved carriages, so they don’t get overcrowded. In unreserved carriages, the main advantage of second-class is that, being slightly more expensive, it tends also to be a bit less packed.

First class covers various different types of seating. These are available only on selected trains and must always be reserved in advance. The most common type of first-class seating is in conventional a/c carriages on intercity trains. On the hill-country and northern lines there are also first-class seats in blue Chinese-built trains with smart modern a/c carriages, although you can’t open the windows and are rather shut off from the outside world. Some people prefer second or third class, which have open windows and are therefore much more atmospheric and breezier, and also better for photography. First class also includes the observation car on hill-country trains; and (rather grotty) sleeping berths on overnight services.

The island’s compact size means that, unlike in neighbouring India, there are relatively few overnight trains. These comprise first-class sleeping berths and second- and third-class sleeperettes (actually just reclining seats), plus ordinary seats.

Fares and booking

Despite recent price increases, fares are still extremely cheap. You can travel all the way from Colombo to Jaffna in third class, for example, for just Rs.335, while even a first-class berth on the same route costs a relatively modest Rs.1100.

Many trains now have seats in all three classes which can be booked in advance365). Sri Lankan Railways don’t offer a web-booking service but it’s possible to reserve tickets online visitsrilankatours.co.uk are the best.

The bad news is that on many services, reserved seating (particularly in first class, where available), tends to sell out as soon as it goes on sale, and even lower classes may be booked solid – meaning that it definitely pays to book more than a month in advance using an online service. The good news (sort of) is that virtually all trains have at least some second- and third-class unreserved carriages. Tickets for these are sold only on the day of departure, sometimes not until an hour before departure, and there’s no limit on the number of tickets sold, meaning you’re guaranteed to get a ticket – if you’re told a train has sold out it just means all the reserved seats have gone). It also, of course, means that carriages can sometimes get packed solid.

By plane

Domestic air services provide a superfast alternative to long journeys by road or rail and are memorable in their own right, with frequently beautiful views of the island from above. The main operator is Cinnamon Air cinnamonair.com), which has regular scheduled flights out of Katunayake international airport and from Water’s Edge (on the southern side of Colombo) to Koggala, Dickwella, Weerawila (near Tissamaharama), Kandy, Castlereagh (near Adam’s Peak), Sigiriya, Batticaloa and Trincomalee. Fares aren’t particularly cheap (a one-way flight from Colombo to Trincomalee, for example, cost $262 at the time of research), although the flights are wonderfully scenic, and on many routes you’ll either take off from and/or land on water, which adds an extra pinch of fun.

Much cheaper flights are offered by Helitours helitourstickets@slaf.gov.lk.

Train timetables of major intercity services

The following were correct at the time of research though are likely to change (perhaps significantly) during the lifetime of this guide. Times from Colombo given below are from Fort Station. All trains run daily unless otherwise indicated. Always check the latest times before travelling.

Trains in the south

In addition to the following, there are a considerable number of slow commuter trains running stretches of the line between Colombo and Galle; the following timetable lists express services only.

COLOMBO–KANDY EXPRESS TRAINS

TRAINS IN THE HILL COUNTRY

TRAINS IN THE EAST

TRAINS IN THE NORTH

By car

As Sri Lankans say, in order to drive around the island you’ll need three things: good horn, good brakes, good luck. Although roads are generally in reasonable condition, the myriad hazards they present – crowds of pedestrians, erratic cyclists, crazed bus drivers and suicidal dogs, to name just a few – plus the very idiosyncratic set of road rules followed by Sri Lankan drivers, makes driving a challenge in many parts of the island.

Reliable car hire companies casons.lk), both of which have a good range of cars at competitive rates, with or without driver.

Self-driving

If you’re determined to drive yourself, you’ll need to bring an international driving permit with you from home and then acquire an additional permit to drive in Sri Lanka. To acquire this you’ll need to visit the Automobile Association of Ceylon, 3rd floor, 40 Sir M.M. Markar Mawatha, Colombo, just a few metres from the Ramada 011 755 5557; office open Mon–Fri 8am–4pm). Permits cost Rs.3636, are valid for up to twelve months and are issued on the spot.

It’s also worth equipping yourself with a good map or atlas (such as the Arjuna’s Road Atlas) – or some smartphone or tablet equivalent. In terms of driving rules, you’d do well to remember that, in Sri Lanka, might is right: drivers of larger vehicles (buses especially), will expect you to get out of the way if they’re travelling faster than you. In addition, many drivers overtake freely on blind corners or in other dangerous places. Expect to confront other vehicles driving at speed on the wrong side of the road on a fairly regular basis.

Car and driver

Given the hassle of getting around by public transport, virtually all visitors opt to tour Sri Lanka by hiring a car and driver, which offers unlimited flexibility and can be less expensive than you might expect. Some drivers will get you from A to B but nothing more; others are Sri Lanka Tourist Board-accredited chauffeur-guides, government-trained and holding a tourist board licence, who can double up as guides at all the main tourist sights and field any questions you might have about the country.

The main problem with drivers is that many of them work on commission, which they receive from some, but not all, hotels, plus assorted restaurants, shops, spice gardens, jewellers and so on. This means that you and your driver’s opinions might not always coincide as to where you want to stay and what you want to do – some drivers will always want to head for wherever they get the best kickbacks (and you’ll also pay over the odds at these places, since the hoteliers, restaurateurs or shopkeepers have to recoup the commission they’re paying the driver). If you find you’re spending more time stressing out about dealing with your driver than enjoying your holiday, find another one – there are plenty of decent drivers out there.

Cars and drivers can be hired through virtually every tour companies and travel agents around the island, while many hotels and guesthouses can also fix you up with a vehicle. To make sure you get a good driver, it pays to go with a reputable company (such as DSL Tours or Sri Lanka Driver Tours) which pays its drivers a decent wage so they don’t have to rely on commission to make ends meet. Make sure your driver speaks at least some English and emphasize from the outset where you do and don’t want to go. Some drivers impose on their clients’ good nature to the point of having meals with them and insisting on acting as guides and interpreters throughout the tour, even if they’re not qualified to do so. If this is what you want, fine; if not, don’t be afraid to make it clear that you expect to be left alone when not in the car.

Prices depend more on quality than size of transport – a posh air-conditioned car will cost more than a non-air-conditioned minivan. Rates start from around $40 per day for the smallest cars, plus the driver’s fees and living allowances. Most top-end hotels provide meals and accommodation for drivers either for free or for a small additional charge. If you’re staying in budget or mid-range places, you’ll have to pay for your driver’s room and food – as ever, it’s best to try to establish a daily allowance for this at the outset of your trip to avoid misunderstandings and arguments later. Your driver will probably also expect a tip of $5–10 per day, depending on how highly trained they are. You’ll also probably have to pay for fuel – now pretty expensive in Sri Lanka – which can add significantly to the overall cost. In addition, some companies only offer a decidedly mean 100km per day free mileage, which doesn’t go far on the island’s twisty roads, so you may well have to stump up for some excess mileage as well. Alternatively, you could always just hire vehicles by the day as you go round the island. The actual vehicle-hire cost may be a bit higher, but you won’t have to worry about having to house and feed your driver.

By rickshaw

The lines of motorized rickshaws that ply the streets of every city, town and village are one of Sri Lanka’s most characteristic sights. Known by various names – tuktuks, three-wheelers, trishaws or (rather more optimistically) taxis – rickshaws are the go-to option for short journeys and can also be useful for tours and excursions and even, at a pinch, for long journeys if you get stranded or can’t be bothered to wait around for a bus, although they’re not particularly comfortable, and you can’t see much