Hot Cocoa Comfort: 50 Recipes for Comforting Cups of Chocolate
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About this ebook
The everyday comfort of true hot cocoa is grounded in memories of grandma’s kitchen, where slow food was a practice, not a movement. And now, rediscovery is in the air—what once was old is new again, with high-end chocolate producers creating pure cocoa powders, and these quality ingredients now compete with coffee in progressive coffeehouses and cafés.
Convivial and resourceful, Cocoa Comfort invites the reader to reconsider the gentle but deep, complex flavor and amazing versatility of made-from-scratch cocoa as a simple pleasure during any moment in daily life, as well as for life’s special occasions. The book recalls cocoa’s ancient origins, offers instructions on tools and techniques for preparation, then stretches palate perspectives with fifty home kitchen-friendly drinks and paired small plates. These delightfully nuanced recipes include:
Consider Cocoa Comfort a re-introduction to an old favorite—with imaginative and original, yet accessible recipes that open the door to new possibilities.
Michael Turback
Michael Turback not only created and nurtured one of Upstate New York’s first destination restaurants, he built a reputation around his ability to stalk, procure, and support the best of local food and wine. The Los Angeles Times called Turback’s “the first Finger Lakes restaurant to really devote itself to New York’s culinary and enological bounty.” A true culinary pioneer, his efforts sparked trends that are seen throughout the hospitality industry today. He is the author of a culinary trilogy (Hot Chocolate, Mocha, and Coffee Drinks), and has taken on, in print, such topics as the ice cream sundae, the banana split, artisan cocktails, food and cocktail pairings, and the pleasures of Finger Lakes Wine Country. He lives in Ithaca, New York.
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Hot Cocoa Comfort - Michael Turback
Introduction: Life in a Cup
Animal crackers, and cocoa to drink, That is the finest of suppers, I think. When I’m grown up and can have what I please, I think I shall always insist upon these.
—Christopher Morley
Oh, comfortable cocoa! There are few indulgences in life more easily obtained. Cocoa is a simple pleasure during any season of life, at any moment in daily life, and for life’s special occasions.
The story begins with ancient Mayans, rulers of what is now the Mexican Yucatan and Guatemala, who domesticated the cocoa tree, roasted and pounded its beans into a grainy liquid, added seasonings, and placed the nourishing beverage at the center of their fantastic civilization. When Spanish conquistadors arrived to plunder riches of the New World early in the 16th century, they discovered treasuries stockpiled, not with silver or gold, but with cocoa beans.
Tempered with sugar and spices to suit European tastes, what became known as chocolate
emerged as the fashionable libation of lords and ladies. They sipped the drink from deep, straight-sided cups, while members of royalty flaunted their wealth by drinking from golden chalices. By the time drinking chocolate made its way to the British Isles, milk had been added to the mixture, and, although chocolate houses flourished in major cities, the steaming cup was still very much a privilege of society’s upper crust.
Hot chocolate was most closely associated with the aristocratic bedroom, as it was popular to drink first thing in the morning as well as in the evening before going to sleep. A painting by French artist Jean-Baptiste Le Prince from 1769 depicts a woman lying in bed, reaching out for her departed lover, the morning light illuminating her figure. A chocolate pot and cups sit by her bedside.
In 1828, everything changed. Casparus van Houten, proprietor of a chocolate factory in Amsterdam, invented and patented a hydraulic press that extracted the butter
from roasted cocoa beans to create a cake.
It was then pulverized and sieved through mesh silk to produce a smooth, soft, uniform powder. The van Houten method led to the mass production and consumption of cocoa, or, as some have pronounced, the democratization
of chocolate.
After visiting an exhibition of innovative German-made chocolate-producing machines at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893, a young American confectioner by the name of Milton Snavely Hershey purchased every single piece of equipment on display. Within a few months, his plant in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, was grinding cocoa powder for drinking and baking, and Hershey’s Cocoa quickly became the first nationally marketed product of its kind. Thanks to Mr. Hershey, the warm, filling, comforting qualities of cocoa became an essential staple in American life.
Yet as time moved toward the present, paled by comparison to the beverages consumed in an ever more caffeinated culture, cocoa lost some of its appeal, considered the mundane alternative to lattes, cappuccinos, macchiatos, and other such things. To make matters more confusing, Americans have come to use the terms hot chocolate
and hot cocoa
interchangeably, obscuring the considerable difference between the two. European-style hot chocolate or drinking chocolate tends to be richer and more intense than its gentle, powdery relative, hot cocoa.
Everyday comfort is grounded in memories of that tin of cocoa in grandma’s kitchen, where life was better inside a warm sweater and slow food was a practice, not a movement. Best of all, rediscovery is in the air—what once was old is new again. This book invites the reader to reconsider the gentle but deep, complex flavor and amazing versatility of pure, natural cocoa as a return to our culinary roots and reconnection with one of the good things in life.
Finding comfort has been a human pursuit since the beginning of time. A warm cup of stovetop hot cocoa practically requires an unhurried moment; it begs to be sipped quietly, savored as a treat that kindles feelings of safety and innocence while it gently warms the heart and lifts the spirits. The humble cup, taken in leisure, offers a change of pace from the fast lane. Life can never feel rushed while sipping cocoa, either alone or with friends. The slowness of the ritual makes it more profound and more valuable. According to Gandhi, There is more to life than increasing its speed.
The time may come when you make the simple pleasure of hot cocoa part of your daily life. When that moment graces you, and it will, it’s a wondrous thing.
The Cocoa Kitchen
Cocoa Powder
Cocoa powder is made by extracting most of the cocoa butter richness from chocolate liquor (ground roasted cocoa