The Illustrated Hassle-Free Make Your Own Clothes Book
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The Illustrated Hassle-Free Make Your Own Clothes Book - Joan Wiener Bordow
Tools
Here are some supplies for the well-stocked sewing kit. The first group are the things you need to begin, the second group those you’ll acquire as you go along. When you start a project, buy the things that you need: thread, zipper, snaps or buttons. You’re bound to have leftovers and will soon gather a lovely collection of odds and ends for future use.
Things to Start With:
Brown Paper or Paper Bags for making patterns
Needles—assorted sizes
Seam Ripper
Scissors
Straight Pins—large box, medium size
Tailor’s Chalk
Tape Measure
Things You’ll Acquire:
Beeswax
Buttons
Elastic
Embroidery Needles—assorted sizes
Embroidery Threads
Hooks & Eyes
Leather Needles—assorted sizes
Safety Pins—assorted sizes
Seam Binding
Snaps—assorted sizes
Thread—large spool black
large spool white
assorted colors
Zippers
Sewing Machines
If you have a sewing machine—great!—but not having one shouldn’t keep you from sewing. In many places, electricity isn’t available and it’s better not to depend on machines.
Hand sewing is sturdier than machine sewing. It’s also a lot more relaxing. What machines can do is shorten sewing time considerably. If you do have access to a machine, don’t be afraid to use it. They’re extremely simple to operate and can be used for all seam sewing. Hems, however, should always be done by hand.
If you don’t know how to use a machine, have someone show you how. This is always better than relying on a diagram.
When using a machine, be careful not to sew in a straight line directly over pins. This can damage the machine. Rather place pins facing the machine’s needle, pulling them out before the needle reaches them—or, place pins perpendicular to the needle and sew over them that way.
e9781602393097_i0002.jpgGuide to Illustrations
e9781602393097_i0003.jpgTerms and Helpful Hints
Casing: This refers to folding over and sewing down the fabric in such a way as to form a tube through which you can string elastic or a ribbon tie—for waistbands on elastic top pants, string gathered necklines or elastic gathered cuffs at wrist or ankle.
Clip Curves: Material sewn on a curve tends to bunch up when worn. Therefore, it’s necessary to clip curves at armholes, necklines, crotches, etc. This allows the material to lie flat. Always start your clipping at the ragged edge, cutting up to, but not over, the seam.
e9781602393097_i0004.jpgDarts: We don’t use darts on tops because we don’t use bras —they give your clothes a funny shape. If you want to make darts, you can figure out easily enough how to add them to the tops. On some pants and skirts, though, darts are useful to make waistbands fit better. You don’t have to have them, but here’s how in case you want to:
1. On the front, you’ll want a small dart about 2 or 3
long, going from the waistband out at an angle toward the point of the hip, if you’re slim, or straight down toward your belly if that’s nice and round.
2. Same in back: make a dart 3 to 4
long going from the waist straight down to the part that sticks out the most. This makes things go in where you go in and go out where you go out.
Hold the front piece up to you and mark in tailor’s chalk where you want the dart to be. Measure carefully to make sure both darts are an equal distance from the center. Do the same with the back pieces.
3. Fold along the line, right side to right side and sew on a diagonal line, starting at top edge about ½″ from fold, down to the bottom of your measured dart. Press flat.
e9781602393097_i0005.jpgElastic: Whenever you use elastic for a waistband or cuff, you can prevent it from curling and twisting if you tack it into place at the sides, front and back of your garment. After the elastic is inserted in the casing, make sure it isn’t curled, adjust the gathers evenly, then tack by sewing through the elastic and the front and back of the casing, using a small stitch the way you would sew on a button—it won’t show in the folds of the fabric.
Facings: Don’t be scared by the word facing.
It is merely an easy way to get a smooth turned edge at garment openings like necks and armholes. The facing is a 2 or 3
piece of fabric that follows the shape of the opening. Instructions will be given with each pattern where a facing is necessary.
1. Sew the facing into place.
2. Press it out flat, away from the garment. Sew another seam ⅛″ from the first seam, taking in the seam selvage and the facing. Trim selvage. This will help it stay flat and keep it from turning to the outside.
If your fabric is stretchy and pliable, facings aren’t absolutely necessary—the ragged edges can be turned under neatly and sewn down. Also, whenever a facing is indicated, you can sometimes use ribbon or lace if you don’t have enough extra fabric.
e9781602393097_i0007.jpgHem Binding: Ribbon or lace can be used whenever you want to give a smooth, unragged look to hems. It’s especially good on heavy fabric where it’s hard to turn the ragged edges under.
1. Sew the ribbon to the right side of your fabric so that the ribbon extends just a little beyond the ragged edge.
2. Then turn up your hem to the right length, pin and hem stitch.
e9781602393097_i0008.jpgIroning (Pressing): It’s good to keep an iron hot and handy while sewing so you can press seams open and flat as you go. You’ll frequently find yourself sewing over seams and pressing makes the whole process much simpler.
e9781602393097_i0009.jpgReinforcing Seams: Wherever there will be strain on a seam —at the crotch or underarm areas, for example—it is helpful to reinforce this by sewing a piece of ribbon or