Auberge du Chocolat
By Anne Scott and Ian Scott
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About this ebook
Anne Scott
Anne and Ian Scott set up Auberge du Chocolat in 2005 and have rapidly established a significant presence in the premium chocolate community with their prize-winning chocolates and bars. Their workshops, parties and corporate events are designed to be fun. In October this year, they introduced a new Signature chocolate range designed by their 18-year-old son Jonathan (who is the youngest winner of an Academy of Chocolate award). The company is committed to sourcing products in a sustainable and ethical way.
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Auberge du Chocolat - Anne Scott
All about chocolate
Chocolate has been eaten and enjoyed for hundreds of years. Understanding more of its intriguing history and the processes by which it is made can only enhance your enjoyment of making and eating it.
IllustrationIllustrationThe History of Chocolate
The history of chocolate is full of myths and mystery and sometimes it can be hard to separate fact from fiction. What follows are generally perceived to be the basic facts.
FOOD OF THE GODS
The earliest records we have of chocolate date back some 1500–2000 years ago in the Central American rainforests. Here we find the Cacao tree, worshipped by the Mayan civilization. Cacao is Mayan for ‘God Food’, which later gave rise to the modern generic Latin name of Theobroma cocoa, being ‘Fruit of the Gods’. Although we might agree with the sentiment behind the name, this is certainly not a form of chocolate that we would recognize today. The Mayans produced a spicy, bittersweet drink made by roasting and pounding the cocoa beans and then adding maize and capsicum. This was then left to ferment. This very special drink was used in religious ceremonies and by the very wealthy. It is also thought to be something only men were allowed to drink, as one of the properties attributed to the drink was that it was a powerful aphrodisiac. It was thought that allowing women to drink it would give them all manner of ideas above their station.
The cocoa bean also held significance for the Aztecs. Unfortunately, their climate and land did not lend itself to the cultivation of cocoa trees and this may have given the beans an even higher value. Beans were used as a currency and it is reported that 100 beans could buy you a slave.
IllustrationThe Mayans made a chocolate drink by pounding the beans from a cocoa pod.
As they were unable to grow the beans, the Aztecs obtained them through trade or the spoils of war. As well as needing the beans for currency, the Aztecs made a similar drink to the Mayans. Like the Mayan Cacao, the Aztec Xocolat was linked with religion and the supernatural. According to legend, their creator and god of agriculture Quetzalcoatl arrived on a beam of the morning star, carrying a cocoa tree from Paradise. Wisdom and power came from eating the fruit of the tree. The value given to Xocolat can be seen in the description of the drink by Emperor Montezuma, who reportedly drank Xocolat 50 times a day: he is supposed to have said that the divine drink ‘builds up resistance and fights fatigue. A cup of this precious drink permits a man to walk for a whole day without food.’
MORE THAN JUST A DRINK
In 1519 the Spanish conquistador Henri Cortes found cocoa beans while ransacking Aztec treasure stores. He realized the beans had commercial value and took them to Spain where a drink more suitable for the European palate was eventually produced by mixing the powered roasted beans with sugar and vanilla. Chocolate remained highly valuable and its origins were kept secret in Europe for almost a century. So much of a secret that in 1579 when some English buccaneers boarded a Spanish treasure galleon and found what looked like ‘dried sheeps’ droppings’, rather than the gold and silver they’d expected, they set fire to it in frustration. Traders in Europe eventually discovered Spain’s secret and chocolate soon became available throughout Europe.
IllustrationShown here top left, Quetzalcoatl is often depicted holding a cocoa bean or cocoa tree.
In 1520 chocolate arrived in England and it rapidly became all the rage. In 1657 London’s first chocolate house, the ‘Coffee Mill and Tobacco Roll’, opened and the new chocolate drink quickly became a bestseller. Clubs built up around the drinking of chocolate and many a business deal was conducted over a cup. Chocolate houses were in effect the forerunners of today’s popular coffee houses. As chocolate became more sought after, politicians imposed an excessive duty of 10–15 shillings per pound (comparable to approximately ¾ its weight in gold). This made chocolate very much a luxury item and therefore something to be enjoyed by the aristocracy and the business community. It was nearly 200 years before this duty was dropped.
IllustrationChocolate houses sprang up all over Europe selling a popular chocolate drink. This was eventually sold to make at home.
FROM DRINK TO MILK CHOCOLATE BAR
The next main event was the production of the first chocolate bar. In 1828 Dutch chemist Johannes Van Houten wanted to make a smoother, more palatable chocolate drink so invented a process to remove the cocoa butter from the cocoa beans. This paved the way for production of chocolate as we know it today. In 1847 the Fry & Sons factory in Bristol, a family-run business that had been making chocolate since the mid-18th century, used the Van Houten process to add sugar and cocoa powder to the extracted cocoa butter and were thus the first to produce a chocolate bar fit for widespread consumption. In 1875 Daniel Peter, a Swiss manufacturer, then further developed the chocolate bar by adding milk powder to the mix, thereby creating the first milk chocolate. Earlier attempts to make a milk chocolate had used liquid milk but this did not combine well with the other ingredients and soon turned rancid. Peter, after years of experimentation, was in the end inspired by his neighbour Henri Nestlé’s invention of condensed milk, which Peter used to make milk drinking chocolate, and farine lactée, a milk food he used to feed his own daughter.
IllustrationThe first chocolate bar was produced in the mid-19th century and changed the way the public enjoyed chocolate.
How Chocolate is made
All chocolate starts life as a cocoa pod. Although cocoa pods come in various colours, shapes and sizes, most are the size and shape of 25–30 cm (10–12 in) rugby ball. These are cut from the tree, slashed open, the flesh scooped out and the many small fruits piled onto a plantain leaf mat. Here they are left to ferment for up to seven days, depending on their quality, in order to take on their chocolatey flavour. Ideally, they are then left in the sun to dry but in a rainforest climate, roll-on covers can be used, or the fruits can be dried in an oven, a process that unfortunately can affect the flavour of the chocolate. The farmer will then sort and bag his crop and sell it to international buyers.
ROASTING AND SEPARATING
The conditions under which the cocoa is grown affect the taste of the final chocolate but so do the processes used at factories. The beans are roasted at 120–140°C (250–275°F) for long enough to bring out their wonderful intense flavour but not so long that they end up burnt. This is where the skill of the roaster comes in. The outer layer of the bean is then removed (and used in gardens as ground cover and decoration), in a