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Skincare Bible: Dermatologist's Tips For Cosmeceutical Skincare: Beauty Bible Series
Skincare Bible: Dermatologist's Tips For Cosmeceutical Skincare: Beauty Bible Series
Skincare Bible: Dermatologist's Tips For Cosmeceutical Skincare: Beauty Bible Series
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Skincare Bible: Dermatologist's Tips For Cosmeceutical Skincare: Beauty Bible Series

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Skincare Bible - A Milennia Beauty Edit 

Dermatologist's Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare

 

Get behind the doors of a dermatologist's office

 

Access advanced skincare knowledge imparted by a board-certified dermatologist with a beauty guarantee 

Any and every beauty question you ever wanted to ask, or can ever think of is answered in this skincare book.

 

With Complete Skincare Masterclass Video Course & Bonus Lecture Notes

Includes access to 5 demonstrative video lectures. Concepts in dermatological science, Skin disorders & cosmetic effects, Functional dermatology, Skincare fundamentals, Tips for masking better*

 

Why this is the best skincare bible for all your beauty questions?

This one of a kind skincare book compilation - the most comprehensive tome of skincare questions ever compiled is guaranteed to up your skincare knowledge no matter what level you are at. Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an international beauty KOL and host of Asia's premier beauty podcast Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty that has collaborated with top industry names like the AMORE-Pacific group, Eucerin, Dior Beauty, Skinceuticals, FOREO and the L'Oréal group, to name a few. An expert in cosmeceutical formulations, she is a key voice in the asian beauty industry where her brand Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals dominates the dermatologist-formulated skincare market in the region. 

 

How did this skincare book come about?

Specially written for Dr. Teo's patients, specific knowledge and tips from behind the doors of the dermatologist's office now available in a complete skincare book. All the questions asked by beauty writers and journalists answered in a readily accessible FAQ format, this skincare book is a trusted resource of skincare advice widely quoted by beauty writers. 

 

Teach yourself the skills of a basic to advanced skincare analysis and consultation 

Detailed beauty regimes -backed by the latest science, get better than any aesthetician with the best beauty advice. Discover the solid principles behind skincare vehicles - the true differences between a serum, lotion and a cream. Master the art of the ideal skincare routine suited for YOU.

 

*Offer valid till 31 Dec 2022, details in book. 
 

Digital skincare masterclass full subtopic content list:

MASTERCLASS 1: Concepts in dermatological science

0:12 Skin as a universal organ

1:10 Tolerability of Cosmeceuticals

1:54 Serums, Lotions, Creams or Ointments

4:58 The Science Behind Emulsions

 

MASTERCLASS 2: Skin disorders & cosmetic effects

0:12 Acne is a medical disorder that can be treated

1:37 Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma and solar lentigo

2:25 Skin sensitivity, reactivity & eczema

 

MASTERCLASS 3: Functional dermatology

0:30 The importance of vehicles in skincare formulation

1:21 A gender-neutral universal mask bar

2:25 Functional dermatology

3:16 The science behind microdermabrasion

 

MASTERCLASS 4: Skincare fundamentals – cleansing

0:14 Cleansing considerations for acne-prone, seborrheic skin

1:35 How cleansers work

2:43 Cleansing formulas and mechanical stress

 

MASTERCLASS 5: Masking better  

0:15 Plant polysaccharides for skin

1:04 Wet occlusion therapy

2:07 Textile cosmeceuticals and sustainability

3:33 Cosmeceuticals for glass skin

5:04 Polyglutamic acid

LanguageEnglish
Release dateMay 30, 2019
ISBN9781393669630
Skincare Bible: Dermatologist's Tips For Cosmeceutical Skincare: Beauty Bible Series
Author

Dr Teo Wan Lin

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is a board certified dermatologist with published original research on sensitive skin, acne and the skin microbiome in top journals such as the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology and the International Journal of Dermatology. She is known for her holistic approach to dermatology, integrating functional skincare-—with a focus on repairing the skin barrier, building skin resilience from the inside-out with plant-based actives from Asian ethnobotany. In her beauty bibles, Dr. Teo imparts her skincare and haircare acumen from over a decade of working as a dermatologist. Her dermatology practice focuses on skin health with an emphasis on healthy self-perception, while managing complex chronic dermatological conditions such as sensitive/reactive skin, eczema, rosacea and adult acne. Her dermatology practice uniquely blends dermocosmetics and quasi-drugs (cosmeceuticals) for the treatment of common facial skin conditions. As the chief scientist of prominent Asian beauty skincare brand Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, headquartered in Singapore and Korea, she offers insider perspectives on skincare formulation for universal skin types, K-beauty approaches to skincare and haircare in her collection of skincare and haircare bibles written for women and estheticians. Dr. Teo is the host of Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty, Asia's premier beauty podcast that has collaborated with industry leaders like Laneige, L'Oreal Paris, Eucerin, SkinCeuticals, FOREO, Dior Beauty, amongst others for skincare education. The author of "On Thoughts, Emotions, Facial Expressions and Aging," published by top scientific journal WILEY BLACKWELL, Dr. Teo is regarded as an international expert on the brain-skin connection and the field of neuroaesthetics—her inspirational activity books for women are guided mindfulness practices that improve self-esteem and well-being. Her podcast explores the neuroscience behind beauty perception as well as her research linking thoughts, emotions and facial expressions with the aging face. Her coloring activity books are created to harness the power of imagination therapy for anxiety and stress, a science-backed method of mindfulness which reduces the inflammatory processes contributing to aging and immune stress. Dr. Teo is also the Director of Skin Masters Academy which provides on-demand skincare, cosmetology and cosmetic formulation workshops to estheticians and skincare professionals. Follow her for skincare education tips on Instagram and Tik Tok @drteowanlin and for courses at www.twlskin.com.

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  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    This book is a skin encyclopedia - the amazing thing is the way complex topics are broken down into FAQ that actually feels intuitive. Literally felt like the book was reading my mind with the next question and answer segment. There's a code that allows you to access the author's community for any unanswered questions you may have on her podcast, though the book was so comprehensive I couldn't think of any more questions

    1 person found this helpful

  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Very comprehensive, especially for a beginner in skincare like me. Especially liked the dermatologist-recommended tips on how to choose the best skincare for your skin which was extremely helpful considering there are so many choices out there

  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Good read, practical tips to improve my skincare routine whilst understanding the science behind it!

    1 person found this helpful

  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    The book was engaging yet informative, and easy to understand. Best of all, it contained actionable tips that I can incorporate into my daily routine. So glad that I chanced upon this book- highly recommend it to anyone with skin issues but don't really have time to consult a professional.

    3 people found this helpful

  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    This book was extremely informative and easy to read in a FAQ format. Dr. Teo dishes out expert tips and answers all the questions I had and then some! Would recommend to anyone who wants a dermatologist consult in the form of a book!

    2 people found this helpful

Book preview

Skincare Bible - Dr Teo Wan Lin

About the Book

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is one of Singapore’s prominent consultant dermatologists. She is regularly interviewed and consulted as an expert by the media on skincare, skin diseases like acne, sensitive skin and eczema, as well as on new product launches relating to cosmetic ingredients and skin technology. She is passionate about educating the public on the science of cosmeceutical skincare and is widely quoted by women’s magazines as a regular contributor and resident beauty specialist for various beauty magazines such as ZCOOP by Zalora, BURO 24/7, Daily Vanity, Female Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, Men’s Health and Men’s Folio. From 2017, she entered into an exclusive collaboration with Singapore’s leading women’s magazine Her World, for a monthly Ask a Dermatologist feature, which answers some of the most pressing beauty and skincare questions. She was the lead author of the only medical study on pigmentation led by skincare supplement giant, Crystal Tomato®, performed at the National Skin Centre in 2014, published in the Journal of Pigmentary Disorders. She is involved as a beauty panel judge on Singapore Women’s Weekly and Her World for their yearly skincare and cosmetic makeup product reviews.

She is an expert in cosmeceutical formulation, with her background in dermatological research and her work with leading chemists for development of cosmeceuticals. In 2016, Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical line was born. A joint collaboration between her and her pharmaceutical engineer brother, Mr Teo Zhi Liang, it features a cosmeceutical range that combines the expertise of a dermatologist together with pharmaceutical engineering quality controls.

Dr. TWL Dermaceuticals is one of the top dermatologist formulated cosmeceutical lines in Asia, which has been featured with top reviews in magazines such as The New York Times Style Magazine, Elle Beauty Book, Her World, CLEO, Clozette and Ellément, to name a few. In an oversaturated beauty and aesthetic industry, it distinguishes itself by its dermatologist-backed formulations with manufacturing standards compliant to pharmaceutical standards as opposed to mass market doctor brand products. The skincare line is committed to using only the purest bioactive ingredients and is developed using state-of-the-art technologies in a certified biotechnology laboratory, with production processes conforming to manufacturing standards certified by the Euro ISO 22716, a standard that complies with the European regulation for cosmetics for the European market.

In this book, she presents a unique FAQ format of the commonest beauty questions that is catered to both beauty aficionados as well as sufferers of skin conditions such as acne, sensitive skin and rosacea for tips on home skincare. Chemists who seek to understand the perspective of a dermatologist in skincare formulas, and individuals with an interest in skincare formulations will find these perspectives from an accredited dermatologist useful in their skincare journey.

About the Author

Dr. Teo Wan Lin, Founder and Medical Director of TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, is a Ministry of Health accredited dermatologist, specialising in both medical and cosmetic dermatology. From a dermatologist’s perspective, she stands by her practice of combining evidence-based aesthetic treatments with cosmeceuticals. She integrates her artistic sensibility with her research background and specialist dermatologist training, by means of customised, evidence-based aesthetic treatments using state-of the-art machines and injectables (fillers and toxins) which work synergistically with her proprietary line of specialist dermatologist-grade cosmeceuticals – Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals. She is widely quoted in women’s, men’s and parenthood magazines, as well as on television for her dermatological expertise.

Dr. Teo attained her Bachelor of Medicine, Bachelor of Surgery Degree from the National University of Singapore and subsequently went on to qualify as a specialist dermatologist accredited by the Specialist Accreditation Board, Singapore. Dr. Teo is a Fellow of the Academy of Medicine, Singapore (College of Physicians, Chapter of Dermatologists) and a Member of the Royal College of Surgeons (UK).

Dr. Teo also holds the United States Medical License (ECFMG), as well as membership of the American Board of Laser Medicine and Surgery. She is a Member of the European Society of Cosmetic and Aesthetic Dermatology (ESCAD) and the International Society of Pediatric Dermatology (ISPD).

Prior to founding TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, Dr. Teo was a dermatologist at Raffles Hospital and National Skin Centre, where she practised medical and cosmetic dermatology, catering to a diverse patient clientele. Dr. Teo spent a year prior to entering the dermatology advanced specialty training (AST) programme at the Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery at Singapore General Hospital, Singapore’s largest surgical training centre. She also completed her paediatric dermatology rotation at Texas Children’s Hospital, Houston, Texas, while attaining her United-States Medical License in 2009. Dr. Teo has expertise in treating challenging conditions in cosmetic and medical dermatology affecting both the caucasian and asian skin types, in adults and children.

On the research front, Dr. Teo was the first author of several research articles in peer reviewed scientific journals, in the field of skin cancers, skin surgery, drug allergies as well as pigmentation disorders. These findings have also been presented in numerous international conferences. She was the recipient of the 2015 Dermatological Society of Singapore-Neutrogena Scholarship for the American Academy of Dermatology Meeting, San Francisco. She was also the scholarship recipient for the prestigious 22nd World Congress of Dermatology(WCD) 2011 held in Seoul, Korea, awarded by the International League of Dermatological Societies (ILDS).

Dr. Teo was awarded the Best Poster Presentation for her paper Loss of EBER expression in Cutaneous Extranasal spread of nasal-type Natural-Killer T-cell Lymphoma which was subsequently published in the Journal of Clinical Oncology (American Society of Clinical Oncology) in 2011.

Her rapport with her patients, medical knowledge and surgical expertise contribute to Dr. Teo’s popularity with patients in both medical and cosmetic dermatology. She received the Best Service Award 2009, awarded by the Service Quality Department of Singapore General Hospital, in recognition of excellent patient care. She is passionate about the science and evidence behind treatment of medical and aesthetic dermatology and is well-known amongst her patients to provide exceptionally precise explanations of skin physiology and their skin conditions to help them understand the treatments involved.

A contemporary art lover, her keen eye for a modern aesthetic is reflected in the minimalist space which she designed for her practice at TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre.

Dr. Teo was previously on the Singapore national fencing team for women’s epee and had represented Singapore in numerous regional and international competitions. She was awarded the German Ambassador’s Cup in 2003 for being the valedictorian in the German language.

Besides her expertise and dedication in the realm of dermatology, she is also passionate about botany, including the role of phytochemicals for skin health. An interesting fact? The power ingredient Artemisia Vulgaris (also known as Mugwort) found in the Miel Honey Cleanser™ with anti-inflammatory properties, is also found in her own garden. She loves having a home-cooked meal with fresh herbs and salads harvested from her own aeroponic vertical garden. She believes that a good diet, coupled with good skincare is how you can easily start taking charge of your own beauty.

SKINCARE BIBLE

Dermatologist’s Tips For Cosmeceutical Skincare

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to thank Mr Justin Teo Zhi Liang for his transcription from my media interviews and Ms Leong Wan Ern for her assistance in text editing.

I would also like to show my appreciation to the beauty editors of ZCOOP, HerWorld, Singapore Women’s Weekly, BURO 24/7 and many others who have reached out to my team to share our skincare journey together.

Special thanks to my patients who have allowed me to share my passion for cosmeceuticals with them and have trusted me with their skin health.

INTRODUCTION

Who am I and why am I writing this book?

As an accredited dermatologist, I have treated thousands of patients with skin problems in the course of my practice and have also been regularly interviewed by women’s magazines about common skincare problems as well as skincare tips. My purpose in writing this book is really to compile and share my tips on skincare from an accurate dermatologist’s perspective as well as to throw some light on what real skincare and skin health should be focused on.

I am a strong believer in natural beauty, the definition being that which makes us unique individuals and the foundation of it being healthy skin. My focus is in promoting healthy skin through my dermatology practice and the daily use of cosmeceuticals – customised, evidence-based cosmetics infused with pharmaceutical-grade ingredients that stimulate the skin’s natural intelligence to target skin problems and promote skin health. In achieving that, I have developed Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals with my brother, a pharmaceutical engineer, combining our respective expertise as well as my artistic sensibilities to create a line of cosmeceutical skincare underpinned by a theme of precision.

We want to keep this book very accessible, hence we wrote it in a FAQ format for beauty aficionados. Through this book, I wish to share my experience as a dermatologist, discuss the common skin conditions and tackle the commonest questions about skincare routine. I would also like to share my expertise and passion in formulating cosmeceuticals.

I wish to share some scientific facts about skin which I share with my patients which makes medical conditions easier to understand and we have included diagrams which are what I usually draw for my patients in my practice as well to help them understand better what is happening before prescription is discussed.

We will also touch on common skin conditions such as acne, eczema, sensitive dry skin, skin allergies mainly to share the pathophysiology of these conditions i.e. why they occur, what causes it and what treatments are available. As far as possible, we will also share some skincare tips which you may try by yourself at home to reduce chances of flare-ups for some level of improvement. However, it’s key to understand that if you do suffer from any of these conditions, it is advisable to seek the care of an accredited dermatologist.

We have shared at the end of each relevant chapter a skincare tip section whereby I share my own experience with the formulation of cosmeceuticals and hopefully it can help you.

My journey in cosmeceuticals is very much a journey of both my medical training, where we emphasise the efficacy of topical prescriptives and cosmeceuticals in the treatment of disease (e.g. acne, rosacea, sensitive eczema skin) and ageing skin, and my personal skincare journey as a woman who also is concerned about anti-ageing.

In my journey of formulating this cosmeceutical line, I have learnt much from the chemists as well in terms of skincare ingredient stability and how we can ensure, with my dermatologist expertise, that the final product will be safe and efficacious.

One of the best perspectives to have about this book is an honest take on what goes behind the scenes in the beauty industry and perhaps it will help to better guide you in skincare choices.

Who should read this book?

I hope that this book will reach out to beauty editors and aficionados as well as my patients who are interested in finding out more about the science of skincare because my passion is really in sharing with them all my medical knowledge.

CHAPTER ONE

What Is The Skin And Its Function?

Skin Anatomy And Physiology

Figure 1.1: Diagram showing structure of skin

The skin is made up of 3 layers – epidermis, dermis and hypodermis (otherwise known as ‘subcutis’ or ‘panniculus’).

The epidermis has 5 layers – stratum corneum, stratum granulosum (granular cell layer), stratum spinosum (spiny layer) and stratum basale (basal cell layer) from the outermost to the innermost layer. This outermost layer of the skin mainly consists of keratinocytes, cells which produce a protein called keratin that is a key structural material in the hair, skin and nails. These cells mature over a two-week life cycle. During these two weeks, they are first differentiated from epidermal stem cells in the basal cell layer and are further differentiated as they move upwards towards the epidermis. At the end of the 28-day cycle, they are shed off after reaching the stratum corneum.

The dermis has 2 layers – the papillary dermis and reticular dermis. It mainly consists of fibroblasts, collagen and elastic fibers.

The final layer of the skin called hypodermis is where the adipose tissue (fats) lie.

Figure 1.2: Diagram showing skin structure

Concept Of Skin Function And Barrier Dysfunction

1. Skin barrier function – the skin acts as a physical barrier between the internal and external environments to retain moisture and protect the skin against mechanical, chemical and microbial injury; dysfunction of the skin barrier may result in injury, dehydration, infection and inflammation

2. Immunologic – the skin senses and responds to pathogens; dysfunction of the immunologic barrier may result in infection, allergy, inflammatory skin conditions and in the worst case scenario, could lead to skin cancer

3. Temperature regulation – the skin maintains a constant body temperature by regulating heat loss in the form of sweat production, with insulating properties of fat and hair and with a dense superficial microvasculature; the failure to maintain a constant body temperature could lead to hyper- or hypothermia

4. Protection from radiation – a dark pigment in the epidermis called melanin protects the skin from harmful ultraviolet radiation; disruption of the production of melanin increases the risk of skin cancer

5. Nerve sensation – the skin constantly monitors the environment through sensory receptors and mechanoreceptors found in the skin; dysfunction in the nerve sensation may lead to pruritus, dysesthesia (an abnormal sensation) and insensitivity to injury (as in the case of diabetes and leprosy)

6. Injury repair – the skin has the ability to repair cutaneous wounds in four phases: coagulation, inflammatory, proliferative-migratory (tissue formation) and remodelling; the loss of this ability results in delayed wound healing (e.g. post-radiation treatment)

7. Appearance and quality of life – besides medical conditions, deteriorations to the skin such as skin defects or physiological ageing can lead to psychological distress (e.g. lipoatrophy and vitiligo)

Skin diseases can all be localised to a problem when any one of these functions of skin are disrupted and will be covered in the following chapters.

Skin Barrier And Hydration

Any detailed research you may have done about the skin would have returned you with the term ‘skin barrier’, or in scientific terms the ‘stratum corneum barrier’. You may be aware of how important the skin barrier’s function can affect the condition of the skin, but how exactly does the skin barrier work?

Skin hydration and the stratum corneum barrier has been active areas of study for many years. Yet, consumers are only beginning to get their interest piqued about the skin barrier, largely due to many marketing techniques. Before you commit to any product or treatment that promises to ‘repair’ the skin barrier, have a read on what these terms and processes mean.

The stratum corneum barrier

The skin barrier prevents foreign material from entering the human body. But it does more than just that. It also prevents water loss and serves as a shield against environmental factors. The barrier works to maintain the body’s homeostasis (or stable equilibrium) level. The loss of water from the body through evaporation from the surface of the skin is common, thus a need to keep our corneocytes hydrated.

Corneocytes are the cells found in the stratum corneum layer, that is the outermost layer of the epidermis.

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