Decanter

Jane Anson

I can still remember one of the sadder lunches that I had in Bordeaux about 10 years ago. It was with a group of winemaking friends that I met when I first came here, all from family estates in the Bordeaux, Blaye and Entre-Deux-Mers appellations, and all aged under 30, full of big ideas for how to transform their properties.

During lunch, one after the other, three winemakers announced that

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