Gourmet Traveller

Riesling rules

John Hughes is ignoring the GPS on the dashboard. “At the next intersection, turn right,” instructs the electronic voice. But Hughes just keeps driving straight.

“Turn back,” says the GPS. Hughes pays no attention. He’s sticking to his own route.

That’s John Hughes for you. A winemaker who has spent the past decade going his own way, ignoring trends and pursuing his passion, picking up plenty of loyal customers, multiple trophies and the glowing respect of his peers in contestant, who became a social-media sensation in 2011 when he refused to present his dish to the judges, saying he wasn’t satisfied with what he’d done.

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