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    Guide to men's tailoring, Volume I: How to make shirts, trousers and vests
    Guide to men's tailoring, Volume I: How to make shirts, trousers and vests
    Guide to men's tailoring, Volume I: How to make shirts, trousers and vests
    Ebook431 pages1 hour

    Guide to men's tailoring, Volume I: How to make shirts, trousers and vests

    By Sven Jungclaus

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    About this ebook

    Step by step to self-sewn men's clothing.

    You quickly learn to sew - but tailoring requires passion, dedication and perseverance. Similar to learning an instrument, dexterity and an eye for the essentials must be trained.

    The step-by-step instructions in this book with numerous photos and drawings lead safely to the finished garment. Detailed explanations ensure that you always have an overview and that the individual working steps are carried out in the correct order; different processing variants leave room for individuality.

    Absolute beginners may need a little more patience than experienced - but with the tips and tricks provided by master tailor Sven Jungclaus and a little practice, the first successes can be achieved quickly. Those who proudly hold the self-sewn piece in their hands, easily find the courage for further tailoring projects.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherBooks on Demand
    Release dateJan 27, 2021
    ISBN9783753428772
    Guide to men's tailoring, Volume I: How to make shirts, trousers and vests
    Author

    Sven Jungclaus

    Sven Jungclaus completó su formación como sastre de señora y caballero en los años 90 con Heinz-Josef Radermacher en Düsseldorf. Ya entonces trabajó para producciones musicales como Grease y Forever Plaid en Düsseldorf o La Bella y la Bestia y La Danza de los Vampiros en Stuttgart. Tras ocho años en la Ópera Estatal de Baviera en Múnich como sastre de caballero y maestro de batas de caballero, perfeccionó sus conocimientos en la Royal Shakespeare Company de Stratford upon Avon, la Deutsche Oper am Rhein de Düsseldorf y el Festival de Salzburgo. Desde marzo de 2013, confecciona prendas a medida para hombre y mujer en su taller de confección de Salzburgo. Además, el polifacético sastre trabaja repetidamente para el taller de vestuario Das Gewand de Düsseldorf y es solicitado para producciones de ópera o musicales -por ejemplo, para la Metropolitan Opera de Nueva York, la Nationalsje Opera de Bergen, el Theater Basel, el Musical Chicago de Stuttgart y Berlín, Het Muziektheater de Ámsterdam, el Festival de Salzburgo o el Theater of Nations de Moscú. Website: https://www.becomeatailor.com

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      Book preview

      Guide to men's tailoring, Volume I - Sven Jungclaus

      tailoring!

      Tools for sewing

      1

      Sewing tools

      1 Buttonhole spring punch

      2 Phillips screwdriver

      3 Clothes brush

      4 Gauge

      5 Pins

      6 Sewing needles

      7 Bonefolder

      8 Awl

      9 Basting thread

      10 French chalk

      11 Sublimating chalk

      12 Tape measure

      13 Waist tape measure

      14 Thimble

      15 Scissors

      16 Shears

      17 Chalk sharpener

      18 Pinking shears

      2

      Useful tools

      1 Small french curve

      2 Big french curve

      3 Armhole template

      4 various cardboard templates according to your needs

      3

      The ironing tools

      1 Sleeve board

      2 Torso pressing pad

      3 Shoulder pressing pad

      4 Ironing board for edges / clapper

      5 Steam iron

      6 Spray bottle

      7 Heavy dry iron

      8 Ironing cloth

      9 Beeswax

      Hand sewing

      Tailor tacking part 1

      This transfers the chalk marks to the right side of the fabric and the other piece of cloth. First, loosely pinch with a double thread and cut open the stitches.

      Tailor tacking part 2

      Then carefully cut between the pieces of cloth. At the end, cut off the protruding threads. See also tacking the vest (p. 81).

      Basting

      For a quick connection, fixing and securing of 2 or more layers of cloth.

      Pad stitching

      For a permanent connection of 2 or more layers of cloth and canvas. Mainly used for the canvas itself (horsehair), under collars and lapels.

      Blind stitching

      For sewing in the lining. But it can also be useful in other places.

      For

      elastic seams such, e.g. the buttocks seam. But can also be used for all other seams, if you want to do it without the sewing machine.

      Prick stitch

      Is often used as decorative stitching for sewing in the lining. Unlike sink stitching, a nodule should be visible.

      Quick sinking stitch

      For places that are not obvious, such as, e.g. hem edges and back vents.

      Carefully sewn sinking stitch part 1

      For edges, lapels, flaps and other things, so that they remain flat and do not swell due to moisture.

      Carefully sewn sinking stitch part 2

      This variant is a bit more elaborate but gives a lovely stitch pattern on both sides.

      Cross stitch

      This stitch is not used very often but still is very important in some places.

      Hemstitch

      As the name indicates, it is suitable for fixing hems. Unlike the cross-stitch, the seam allowance is not visible on the right side when ironing flat.

      4

      The shirt

      Cutting the shirt

      Before cutting, it is essential to wash the fabric - which is usually made of cotton or linen - in the washing machine with the gentle or wool program at 30° C. The fabric can shrink significantly. With prewashing, the collar fits even after processing and when the shirt is rewashed.

      5

      6

      7

      8

      9

      10

      11

      12

      The cutting

      Pictures 5/6

      When cutting the shirt, you do not necessarily have to pay attention to the threading, unless you work with corduroy, flannel or something similar.

      For white fabrics, it is advisable to draw the cutting parts carefully with a thin, soft pencil. These marks will be removed with the next washing.

      The back darts

      Picture 7

      With pins, the dart is transferred and retraced to the other side.

      Picture 8

      Then the darts are folded at the dart-center-line and pressed.

      Picture 9

      When stitching, the seam must be locked at the beginning and the end (sewing back and forth). After that, the darts are ironed flat in the direction of the side seam.

      The lower flap

      Picture 10

      The edge of the right front part - the lower flap - is first folded by 1 cm and ironed flat, then folded by 3 cm and ironed flat to the wrong side of the fabric.

      To reinforce the lower flap, for holding the buttons, a strip of adhesive interlining can be added inside. Now the lower flap is sewn from the back very narrow to the edge (about 1-2 mm).

      The button bar

      Picture 11

      The edge of the left front piece, the button bar, is folded and ironed twice by 3 cm. The cutting edge has to lie exactly in the fold. To reinforce the button bar, a strip of adhesive interlining can be added inside.

      Then the edge is stitched by approx. 5 mm.

      After that, the front part is folded back and ironed flat.

      For symmetry, the button bar is also stitched on the other side by approx. 5 mm.

      Picture 12

      Left and right finished edges placed side by side.

      13

      14

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