Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
We are extremely delighted to express our indebtedness and deepest sense of gratitude to our supervisor Md. Dewan Mahbub Kamran(Sr.Executive, Dyeing).for his able guidance, untiring efforts, stimulating influence and valuable comments during the training period . We would like to offer sincere thank to the DGM (Dyeing) Engr. Md. Shamim Rahman for his invaluable suggestions regarding this training period. The authority of the VIYELLATEX GROUP who gave us the opportunity to complete our industrial attachment with great success is remembered with honor. Thanks are due to all Engineers, officers, technicians, employees, stuffs, all section in-charges for their cordial behavior. We are really lucky that we have gotten such helping hand without whom, this attachment could not be completed. We also like to thank Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah-ur-Rahman, department of Wet Processing Technology for his encouragement, valuable suggestion, and for the completion of this Industrial attachment successfully. Last but not least, thanks goes to my precious family for their never-ending support and loves in every stages of my life which has motivated me to do such type work.
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The internationally recognized Buyers or clients are looking for those countries for producing their apparel products where different types of mills have established as a one stop source for the global apparel market, satisfy and meet customer's expectation by developing and providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety & Environmental impact. And also assure complete compliance with the international quality standards and also to provide the employees internationally acceptable working condition/standards. In Bangladesh, there are different types of Textile Industry those are producing high quality textile and apparel product. VIYELLATEX GROUP is one of them. VIYELLATEX GROUP is a Knit Composite Garments, having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They have different types of Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A, Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30 Metric tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in VIYELLATEX GROUP are textiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded. They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from international market like U.K, Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A, Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and top end such as Esprit, M&S, SOliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production can not hamper. In this report, we have tried to give some information about VIYELLATEX GROUP and we have observed that VIYELLATEX GROUP produce high quality fabric and fulfill the special requirements from the different types of buyers by following different internationally recommended standard method.
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INTRODUCTION
The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various processing stages. By means of practical knowledge its not possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the practical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equal important in association with the theoretical knowledge. It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. the above mentioned can not be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage and inspiration to take self responsibility. Textile education cant be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at VIYELLATEX GROUP, which is a 100% export-oriented composite Knit Dyeing Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing. .
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TABLE OF CONTENT
TOPIC NUMBER 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 TOPIC NAME GENERAL INFORMATION KNITTING SECTION BATCH SECTION LAB SECTION DYEING SECTION FINISHING SECTION INSPECTION SECTION GARMENTS SECTION WASHING SECTION PRINTING SECTION EMBROIDERY SECTION MAINTENANCE SECTION UTILITY SECTION CONCLUSION PAGE NUMBER 5-11 12-40 41-43 44-59 60-98 99-121 122-124 125-137 138-146 147-153 154-157 158-163 164-175 176-177
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Factory:
VIYELLATEX GROUP. 297 Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur-1712.,Dhaka Bangladesh. Tel : 880-2-9813001, Ext: 110 Fax : 880-2-9811400 http//www.viyellatexgroup.com
VIYELLATEX LTD. is a well established knit composite industry. The industry stands on industrial area of Gazipur. VIYELLATEX GROUP. is a Group of Companies, Viyella spinning, Youngones fashion LTD. Viyella knitting and dyeing~ VIYELLATEX LTD. is going to prove its own standard about product quality in world market as they know that their reputation depends on its quality. VIYELLATEX LTD. is a profitable project and contributes the economy of our country.
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KA I A lluminim .d Co.Lt
V IYELLATEX
M asco In d u stries Ltd .
TO N G I
G A J IPU R A DH A KA AYM A N SH IN G H IG H W AY -M
BO ARD BAZAR
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PROJECT DESCRIPTION
Name of the Company : VIYELLATEX GROUP Status : Private Ltd. Company Type : 100% Export oriented composite knit Dyeing Year of establishment : 2001 year of starting production : 2002 Location : Gazipura, Tongi Address: Factory: 297, Khortoli, Tongi, Gazipur-1712 Head Office : 297, Khortoli, Tongi, Gazipur-1712 Tel : No: 88192812 Fax No: 880-2-8810445 E-mail: www.viyellatexgroup.com Sponsors :Mr. Rezaul Hasnat Product Mix 100% cotton 100% polyester Spun Filament Nylon Chief Value Cotton (CVC) Polyester Cotton (PC) Grey melange (15% Voscose 85% cotton) 10% Voscose 90% cotton
Ash melange (1% Viscose 99% cotton)
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d) Maintenance section:
e) Store Section f) Administration Section g) Security Section h) Marketing Section i) Production Planning & Control j) Human Resource & Development Section
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Qualify Certification:
Award:
Name of The Buyer Marks & Spencer S.Oliver Tesco Gap Puma Esprit G-Star PVH Woolworths Celio Abercrombie& Fitch Gerry Weber . CSRP:
Country U.K Germany U.K U.S.A Germany Germany Netherland U.S.A France U.S.A Germany
Run ETP to treat dyeing water before release to environment Donate Blood transfusion Thalassaemia Hospital. Donated Kidney Dialysis Machine by Rotary Club Dhaka North-West. Scholarship to meritorious students. A Local school runs by Viyellatex Welfare Trust. Projected 80 bedded general Hospital. Carbon Footprint Project by BASF. Reuse of Generator exhaust to run chiller & Boiler. Preserve Rain water. Free Eye Camp & health Campaigns for local community. + Take part on others social & national activates, disaster etc.
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Sources of mellange: Patartoli Prime Shohag pur Thermax Sources of polyester: Kader Synthetic. China. Count: 75den, 100den, 150den. Sources of Lycra: * Brand : Roica Country : Taiwan. * Brand : Texlon Country : Korea. *Brand : Acelen Country: China *Brand : Creora Country: Japan *Brand : Lioli (In Viyellatex used mostly) Country: China
Price list of different types of yarn: Cotton: Yarn Count 40/1 34/1 32/1 30/1 28/1 26/1 24/1 22/1 20/1 Combed Yarn 3.65 $/Kg 3.00 $/Kg 2.90 $/Kg 2.70 $/Kg 2.70 $/Kg 2.65 $/kg 2.60 $/Kg 2.55 $/Kg 2.50 $/Kg Carded Yarn 2.65-2.7 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg 2.15-2.2 $/Kg
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Manager /Asst. Manager (Production & Plan)(02) Sr. Executive (Production, Plan & Sample)(02)
Sr. Feeder/Feeder(07) Executive / Jr. Executive (Prod. & Sample)(05) Asst. Feeder(04) Sr. Supervisor/Supervisor(06) Sr. Operator/Operator(135) Asst. Operator(33) Servicing Helper(06) Production Helper(21) Sample Supervisor(02) Needle Man(03) Sample Asst.(05) Servicing Man(06)
Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric)(03) Store Asst.(Grey Fabric)(07) Batch Helper/Loader (35)
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Oil tank
Worker Toilet
Officer Toilet
Exit
69
70
71
72
Office Are a
=Single jersey
65 Temporary Yarn Store 66 67 68 Office Are a 64
59
60
61
62
63
56
55
58
57
44
43
42
41
54
53
35
36 36
37 37
38 38
39 39
40 40
34 52 51 22 50 49 21 21 47 48 48
33 33
32 32
31 31
30 30
29
=Wt. Balance
23 24 25 26 27 28
20
19 19
18 18
17
16
15
08
09
10
11
12
23
14
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KNITTING:
KNITTING IS THE PROCESS OF PRODUCING A FABRIC BY FORMING A SERIES OF CONNECTED LOOPS FROM A SERIES OF YARN. IN THIS METHOD FABRIC IS PRODUCED BY INTERMESHING OF LOOPS.
KNITTING TYPES: warp knitting: each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a
different thread and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row.
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Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%) 24S,26S,28S Anthra Mlange (C-65% V-35%) CVC PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)24S,26S,28S,30S 24S,26S,28S,30S
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Knitting section is divided in four sections, 1. 2. 3. 4. I. Inspection section Flat knitting section Circular Knitting section Store section
In cloth inspection section two machines are available. Specification of those machines is given below Type Cloth Inspection Machine Manufacturer name Uzu fabric Inspection County Thailand Model No. UZ 900.31 2. Flat Knitting Section: Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this section there are 25 flat knitting machines. all of them are same type and also have same specification. The specification of all machines is given below: Type Automatic Flat knitting machine Manufacturer name Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd. Country Japan Model No. \l-100 Gauge G14
3. Circular Knitting Section: This section contains 72 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications. In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different specifications of different machines are given one after another 4. Store section: In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.
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Machine no: 01 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin: Kobe, Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G Extra cylinder: 30; 20G \o of needle: 1860 Machine no: 03 Industrial attachment Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin: Kobe ,Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 26; 24G Extra cylinder: No of needle: 1932 No of feeder: 78 Machine no: 05 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36~ 24G No of needle: 2712 \o of feeder: 108 Machine no: 07 Machine type: Single jersey(2 truck) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:25;24G No of needle: 1872 No of feeder: 74
Machine no:02 Machine type: Single jersey Brand : Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin : Kobe, Japan Machine dia&Gauge:26.24G No of Needle : 1932 No of feeder : 78 Machine no: 04 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin: Kobe, Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G Extra cylinder: No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 90 Machine no: 06 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:25;24G No of needle: 1872 No of feeder: 74 Machine no: 08 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30;28G Extra cylinder : 33, 24G No of needle : 2236
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Machine no: 09 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30;28G Extra cylinder: 30;24G No of needle: 2256 No of feeder: 90 Machine no: 11 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Fukuhara (B.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30;24G No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 13 Machine type: Single jersey
brand: Fukuhara (B.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30-24G No of needle: 2268
No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 15 Machine type: Terrot Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30:20G Noofneedle:1872 No of feeder: 96 Machine no:17 Machine type: Rib Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:34-18G No of needle: 3840 No of feeder: 60
Machine no :19 Machine type : Rib / Interlock Brand : Terrot Origin : Germany Machine dia & Gauge : 36 28G Extra cylinder : 36` 22G No of needle : 4080 No of feeler :64
Machine no: 10 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Fukuhara (v.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30;24G Extra cylinder: 30;20G No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 12 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Fukuhara (B.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30;24G No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 98 14Machine no: 14 Machine type: Fleece Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30~20G Noofneedle:~872 No of feeder: 96 16. Machine no: 16 Machine type: Rib\Interlock Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30;18G Extra cylinder: 30~22G No of needle: 3368 No of feeder: 54 Machine no: 18 Machine type: Rib Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:36; 18G No of needle : 4080 No of feeder :64 Machine no : 20 Machine type : Single jersey Brand : Mayer & Cie Origin : Germany Machine dia & Gauge : 30: ; 28G No of needle:980 Machine no: 22 Machine type: Rib Page 2
Brand: Mayer & Cie Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30,28G Extra cylinder: 30,24G No of needle: 2640 No of feeder: 96 Machine no: 23 Machine type: Rib Brand: Fukuhara (v.er-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36,18G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64 Machine no: 25. Machine type: Rib Brand: Fukuhara (v-er-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36-l8G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64 Machine no: 27. Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung(pl-xr2b\ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:38,18G No of needle: 2124 No of feeder: 76 Machine no: 29 Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung(pl-xr2b\ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:38,18G No of needle: 2124 No of feeder: 76 Machine no: 31 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:26;24G No of needle: 1944 No of feeder: 78 Machine no: 33 Machine type: Single jersey (Auto Stripe)(pl-xscsl 6) Brand: Pai Lung
Brand: Fukuhara(V-ER-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36,18G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64 Machine no: 24. Machine type: Rib Brand: Fukuhara (v-er-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36,18G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64 Machine no: 26 Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung (pl-xra\ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:3818G Noofneedle:2160 No of feeder: 76 Machine no: 28. Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung (pl-xr2b/ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:38,18G No of needle: 2124 No of feeder: 76 Machine no: 30 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:24~24G No.of needle: 1800 No of feeder: 72 Machine no: 32. Machine type: Interlock Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36,22G No of needle: 2484 No of feeder: 72 Machine no: 34 Machine type: Single jersey (Auto Stripe)(pl-xscsl 6) Brand: Pai Lung Page 2
Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30,24G Extra cylinder: 30,16G No of needle: 2256 No of feeder: 42x6
Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30:24G Extra cylinder: 3O~16G No of needle 22~6 No of feeder: 42x6 Machine No. 36 TAIWAN Type Auto striper Double jersey Brand PA! LUNG. Origin TAIWAN. Model No. PL-XDCSI6-L Machine Dia 36 Gauge 18G PL \F3B-LP Machine No. 38 Type Fleece Brand PAl LUNG. Type Single jersey Brand PAT LUNG. Origin TAIWAN ModelNo. PL-XS4BACE. Machine Dia 36 Gauge 24G Feeder No. 144
Machine No. 40 Tvpc Single jcrscv. Brand PAl LUNG. Origin TAIWAN. Model No. PL-XS4B/AICE Machine Dia 23 Gauge 24G
Machine No. 35 Type Auto striper Double jersey. Brand PAL LUNG. Origin TAIWAN. lodJ No PL-XDCS/6-U Machine Dia: 36 Gauge 18G
Machine No. 37 Type Fleece Brand PAl LUNG. Type Single jersey Brand PAT LUNG. Origin TAIWAN ModelNo. PL-XS4BACE. Machine Dia 36 Gauge 24G Feeder No. 144
Machine No. 39 Type Single jersey Brand PAT LUNG. Origin TAIWAN ModelNo. PL-XS4BACE. Machine Dia 36 Gauge 24G
Feeder No.
144
Feeder No.
78
Machine No. 41 Type Double jersey Brand PAl LUNG Machine Dia 38 Gauge 18G Feeder No. 76
Machine No. 42 Tvpe Doublc jersey. Brand PAI- LUNG. Origin: TAIWAN Dia 38 Gauge I 8G
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Fccdcr No. Machine no: 43 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand:Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No of feeder: 98
76
Machine no: 44 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 46 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle: 2850 No of feeder: 144 Machine no: 48 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x24 No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 50 Machine type Single jersey(Auto strip) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gawie:30x2 No of needle: 2256 No of feeder: 42x6 Machine no: 52 Machine type: Rib(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung
Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x18
Machine no: 45 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 47
Machine type: Single jersey.
Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle: 2850 No of feeder: 144 Machine no: 49 Machine type: Single jersey(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 3 0x247 No of needle:2256
No of feeder: 42x6
Machine no: 51 Machine type: Rib(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x1 8
No of needle:2040
No of feeder54x6 Machine no: 53 Machine type: Single jersey (Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia & gauge : 30x24 industrial attachment No opf needle : 2256 no of feeder 42x6
Machine type: Single jersey(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle:2712 No of feeder: 50x6
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Machine no: 56
Machine no: 57
Machine type: Single jersey (Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle: 27U No of feeder: 50x6
Machine no: 58
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x24 No of feeder: 86
Machine no: 59
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x4 No of feeder: 86
Machine no: 60
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x4 No of feeder: 86
Machine no: 61
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x24 No of feeder: 86 Machine no: 62 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x28 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 64
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x8 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 63 Machine type: Single jersey
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No. of feeder: 30
Machine no: 66
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Machine dia &Gauge8x24 No of feeder: 84 Machine no: 67
Kobe Japan
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:32x24 No of feeder: 106
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:32x24 No of feeder: 106
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Machine no: 68
No of feeder:
118
Machine No: 69 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90 Machine No: 71 Machine type: Single jercy Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90
Machine No: 70 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90 Machine No: 72 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90
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Product Mix
SINGLE JERSEY S/J LYCRA S/J YARN DYED S/J POLO PIQUE SINGLE LACOSTE DOUBLE LACOSTE FLEECE LYCRA FLEECE
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DOUBLE JERSEY 1*1 RIB 1*1 LYCRA RIB YARN DYED RIB 2*1 RIB 2*2 RIB 2*2 LYCRA RIB INTERLOCK Type of Collar TIPPING COLLAR SOLID COLLAR RAISING COLLAR PEACOT COLLAR WAISY BAND / HEM
PRODUCTION CALCULATION:
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency
= RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL(mm) 3527 .80 Yarn count
B. Production/shift in meter
Course / min . Course / cm RPM No. of Feeder 60 12 Efficiency = Course / cm 100 C. Fabric width in meter: = Total no. of wales Wales / cm 100 Total no. of Needles used in knitting = Wales / cm 100 =
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PRODUCTION PARAMETER:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Machine Diameter Machine rpm (revolution per minute) No. of feeds or feeders in use Machine Gauge Count of yarn 6. Required time (M/C running time) 7. Machine running efficiency
Production
Calculated Fabric Production = 18 M. Ton Actual Fabric Production = 12-14 M. Ton Circular Knitting m/c production= 200 -500 kg per m/c/day Auto Stripper production = 60- 150 kg/mc Collar production= 11500-13500 pc/ day
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SAMPLE AND ANALYSIS OF VARIOUS TYPE OF KNITTED FABRIC: Fabric: Single jersey
SAMPLE
NOTATION DIAGRAM
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Fabric: 1 1 Rib
SAMPLE
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
HL LS
N.B: = Knit cam H =High butt needle L = Low butt needle 1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle
22
22
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Fabric: 2 2 Rib
SAMPLE
LH S
N.B: = Knit cam H = High butt needle L= Low butt needle C= Cylinder D= Dial 1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle Fabric: Plain Interlock SAMPLE 1 C
22
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NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
2 N.B: = Knit cam H = High butt needle L = Low butt needle 1= One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle = Miss cam C = Cylinder D = Dial
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NOTATION DIAGRAM
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
1 2 N.B: = Knit stitch = Knit cam =Tuck cam = Tuck stich 1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle
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NOTATION DIAGRAM
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 N.B: = Knit stitch = Tuck stitch = Tuck cam = Knit cam
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NOTATION DIAGRAM CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT 1 NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 3 NB: = Knit stitch = Tuck stitch = Tuck cam = Knit cam = Miss cam 2 3 4
1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle 3 = Three butt needle = Miss stitch
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Fabric: Fleece (Three Thread) SAMPLE NOTATION DIAGRAM CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 3 NB: = Knit stitch = Tuck stitch = Tuck cam = Knit cam = Miss cam
1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle 3 = Three butt needle = Miss stitch
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If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density. Badly knot or splicing. Yarn feeder badly set. Remedies: Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform. Use proper count of yarn. Correctly set of yarn feeder. Knot should be given properly. 2. Needle Mark Causes: When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics. If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics. Remedies: Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch. 3. Sinker Mark Causes: When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes. If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies: Sinker should be changed. 4. Star Causes: Yarn tension variation during production. Buckling of the needle latch. Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
Maintain same Yarn tension during production. Use good conditioned needles. 5. Drop Stitches INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Causes: Defective needle. If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook. Take-down mechanism too loose. Insufficient yarn tension. Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies: Needle should be straight & well. Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation. Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension. Yarn tension should be properly. 6. Oil stain Causes: When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line. Remedies: Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics. Well maintenance as well as proper oiling. 7. Rust stain
Causes: If any rust on the machine parts. Remedies: If any rust on the machine parts then clean it. Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling. 8. Pin hole Causes: Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies: Change the needle 9. Grease stain Causes: INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 2
Improper greasing Excess greasing Remedies: Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance 10. Cloth fall- out
Causes: Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles. Remedies: Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch. 11. Barre: A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) Stripe. Causes: This fault comes from yarn fault. If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn. Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn. During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics. In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver. Remedies: We can use this fabric in white color. 12. Fly dust:
Causes: In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies: Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 2
By cleaning the floor continuously. By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor. Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric. 13. Yarn contamination Causes: If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing, If lot, count mixing occurs. Remedies: By avoiding lot, count mixing. Fault less spinning. 14. Yarn Faults:
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Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order.
Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.
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: Air turning m/c : 02 : Taida : China : 300-500m/min : DF 200 : 150 kg :Shandong Taida Dyeing &
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Test Name: Colorfastness to Washing, Dry cleaning. Name of the m/c : Rota Wash Origin : U.K Test Method :ISO105-C06, ISO105-D02
Test Name: Dimensional Stability, Spirality, Appearance after washing. Name of the m/c : Eltrolux wascator. Origin Test Method : U.K : ISO 6330, ISO 26330
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Test Name : Shrinkage Test. Name of the m/c : Eltrolux Origin : U.K
Test Name : Color Fastness to Wash Test. Name of the m/c : Gyro wash Origin Test Method : U.K : ISO 105-C06
Lab Dip m/c: No.of m/c: 02 M/C NO- 01 Brand name : Ahiba Nuance Lab Dip Dyeing m/c Origin : U.S.A
M/C NO- 02 Brad name : Ahiba Nuance Lab Dip Dyeing m/c Origin : U.S.A
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Laboratory is the heart of dyeing Industry. An efficient laboratory can increase the efficiency of dyeing. So, laboratory in-charge is sometimes called pilot. Before bulk production a sample is sent to buyer for approval. Laboratory supplies the recipe to the floor. Purpose of Laboratory: Get color approval from buyer. Recipe supply to the floor. Shade correction. Minimize the deviation between bulk and laboratory. Laboratory line: Standard sample: At first recipe % of standard sample is measured by CCM (computer color matching) system.
Laboratory Trial: Then by taking those recipe laboratory officers produce laboratory trial and match with standard according to buyer requirement. Approved Sample: Then sample swatch, which is matched with the standard, is send to buyer for approval.
Off-Line Tests:
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Off-Line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as follows: Physical tests Chemical tests Scope for Quality control, quality assurance and testing 1 Testing lab 2.Machine auditing system 3.A good training system 4.Excellent analytical back up 5.Technical expertise
On-Line
Off-Line
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Online Quality control: There are two types of online quality control. These are as follows: Raw material control:
Raw material control means control the quality of raw materials (e.g.Quality of Grey fabric, Dyes, Chemicals and Auxiliary) Process control: Process control means the selection of right process and controlling of some parameters. Such as PH, Water hardness, water volume, Temperature, Reel Speed, Pump pressure, etc. Online Tests: Dyed fabric. Shade check. Wash fastness. Water fastness. Crocking fastness. Off-Line Tests: Off-Line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as follows: Physical tests Chemical tests Physical Tests: GSM of Fabric. Abrasion resistance / Pilling. Dimensional stability test. Spirality test. Color fastness to rubbing test (Dry / Wet). Bursting strength test (For Knitted fabric). Tensile Strength test (For Woven fabric).
Chemical Tests:
Color Fastness to washing. Color Fastness to light. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 62
Color Fastness to heat. Color Fastness to actual laundering Color Fastness to Chlorinated water. Color Fastness to water spotting. Color Fastness to perspiration. Color Fastness to Seawater. Flammability test. Fibre analysis. PH test. Spray test (water repellency). Phenolic yellowing.
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Make the R2R continuity of each dye lot by cutting small piece from each roll of dye lot. Inspect 30-40 % of each dye lot under 4-point inspection system & report accordingly. If found any problem then re-inspect 100% of that dye lot and make report & re-process card (if re-process able) for dyeing. If it is knitting faults then immediately inform to officer asking decision. Check the evenness of a dye lot by checking R2R continuity. Check the shade of body to rib, body to collar & cuff. In charge: Monitor the all Q.C.S (finishing) work including shade Q.C. Take decision when asking advise from his subordinate. Make daily problematic batch report. Make daily production report. Maintain resister khata. Make daily batch re-process job card.
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Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at VIYELLA TEX Ltd. Acceptance Calculation Roll yardage (A) Total points founds(B)
40 points
41-60 61-80
Above 8Opoin =
Tests
There are two types of tests are done in Quality Assurance Department. They are 1. Physical Tests 2. Chemical Tests Physical Tests: Yarn Grade GSM test Shrinkage test Spirality test Tensile strength Abrasion resistance Button Strength Testing Lycra% determination Crease resistance Chemical Tests: Fastness to washing. Fastness to light
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Fastness to actual laundering Fastness to sea water Fastness to water Fastness to perspiration
water & cooled at 20C & measured PH (where necessary). 3. Run the program in the following way: Test no. TempC C2S 60C Liq.volume ml 50 Time min. 30 Steel balls Adjust pH 25 10.51
4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water. 5. Dry at 60C by hanging or by flat iron pressing but temperature should not less more than 150C.
Pilling test:
Procedure: INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 62
Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm & balance mark should be 10cm by using template. Then sewn the fabric so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a moulded polyurethane tubes. Then four tubes are placed in a box & start 602 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyer requirement. Here mainly used 3hrs(1100 cycle). Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimen on the viewing cabinet & compare with standard photographs.
Procedure: At first take two ply of fabric & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has 8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm at 3 places. Then we mark the 8 holes by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template. Then sewn the fabric & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60C for 60minutes with water. After that dry the sample & then measure the fabric Spin speed --- 500rpm Drum speed--500rpm
Calculation:
Shrinkage Test:
Lengthwise: After wash Before wash = ----------------------------------100 Before wash Width wise: After wash Before wash = ----------------------------------100 Before wash
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Spirality test:
Left side + Right side = 2 100 % Length(width for H & M)
Color fastness to perspiration Alkaline & Acid solution (Method: ISO 105 E04):
1) Procedure: Cut the specimen & multifibre at 102cm & sewn together. 2) Prepare solution: Alkaline Solution: 0.5g/l of 1-histadine mono hydrochloride monohydrate 5g/l of sodium chloride This solution is brought to pH -8 with 0.1 mole/l caustic solution. Acid solution: 0.5 g/l of 1-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 62
5g/l of sodium chloride. 2.2 g/l of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate. This solution is brought to pH-5.5 with 0.1 mole/l caustic solution. 3) M: L = 1: 50 4) Wet the specimen in flat dish containing acid & alkaline solution & keep for 30min. Then take the specimen & squeeze the excess solution by two glass rods. 5) Put the specimen in to the acrylic resin plates & put wt. on the plates. 6) Keep it in the woven at 37C 2C for 4hrs. 7) Open the specimen 6 multi fibre & dry separately in the air temperature not exceeding 60C. 8) Access the staining & shade change with grey scale.
PH Test:
Procedure: Take 2gm sample fabrics and cut into small pieces. Then put it conical flax with 100cc water (M: L -1:50). Then shake it 15 min, then place it in a shaker m/c for 1 hour. Then check PH by PH meter.
GSM TEST:
Procedure: GSM is the most important factor. There is a GSM cutter. The sample cut by the GSM cutter is weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm) from the balance is multiplied by 100 to get the value of GSM.
Remarks:
They have a well-equipped Testing laboratory called Textile Testing Services limited for all kinds of Textile Testing. The laboratory of viyellatex is approved by world renowned buyer Marks & Spenser and also Puma. Now they are just testing their internal tests but they are trying to develop their
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laboratory. So that external author can send their textile material for testing by suitable testing fees.
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Dept: Dyeing Report to: Senior production officer. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.
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textile engineers in the industry 11 for dyeing & 1 for Finishing. It is sufficient for Finishing). It is sufficient for fluent production. The efficiency of the \\orker should be increased for more quality production.
Total Capacity=
11,360
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Total Capacity= 350 Total capacity of Bulk dyeing & Sample dyeing machine= 11,710 Kg
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Dyeing Machine: 02(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction Thies (High temperature m/c). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 1000 kg 45506 04 140C 17696 liter 0.35 Mpa : 0.55 Mpa 2004
Dyeing Machine: 03(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction Thies (High temperature m/c). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 1000 kg 43891 04 140C 17696 liter 0.35 Mpa 0.55 Mpa 2003
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Dyeing Machine: 04(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction Thies (High temperature m/c). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 250 kg 41346 01 140C 6605 liter 0.35 Mpa 0.525 Mpa 2002
Dyeing Machine: 05(THIES) Machine Name Thies (High temperature m/c). Type Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Origin Germany Capacity 500 kg Model 41350 Number of nozzle 02 Max. working Temperature 140C Max. Liquor Capacity 10193 liter Working Pressure 0.35 Mpa Test pressure 0.525 Mpa Year of Construction 2002 Dyeing Machine: 06(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction Thies (High temperature machine). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 750 kg 41354 03 140C 13901liter 0.35 Mpa 0.525 Mpa 2002
Dyeing Machine: 07(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Origin Capacity Model No. Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
CHINA 200 kg SHI 0515416/25 01 PD 5500 2003 CAT2 140C 380 KPa 585KPa 380 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN)Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 08(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 250 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/07 Number of nozzle 01 Design code PD 5500 2003 CAT2 Design Temp. 140C Design Pressure 380 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 585KPa Safety Valve Set 380 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 09(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 750 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/17 Number of nozzle 03 Design code PD 5500 2003 CAT2 Design Temp. 140C Design Pressure 380 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 585KPa Safety Valve Set 380 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 10(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 1120 kg
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SHI 0515416/23 04 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140C 350 KPa 520KPa 350 KPa 2007 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 11(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 840 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/19 Number of nozzle 03 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140C Design Pressure 350 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 520KPa Safety Valve Set 350 KPa Year of Construction 2007 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 12(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 560 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/03 Number of nozzle 02 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140C Design Pressure 350 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 520KPa Safety Valve Set 350 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 13(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 1680 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/27
Model No. Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
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Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
06 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140C 390 KPa 585KPa 390 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 14(FONGS)
Machine Name Origin Capacity Model No. Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 840 kg SHI 0515416/22 03 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140C 380 KPa 585KPa 380 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 15(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 1120 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/29 Number of nozzle 04 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140C Design Pressure 380 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 585KPa Safety Valve Set 380 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
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Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
01 PD 5500 2000 CAT2 140C 400 KPa 650KPa 400 KPa 2003 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 02 (THIES) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Max. Operating Pressure Max. Operating Temp. Liquor Capacity Year of Construction Thies (High temperature machine). GERMANY 25 kg 01 0.35MPa 140C 523 lit. 2002
Dyeing Machine: 03 (FONGS) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 30 kg 01 PD 5500 2003 CAT2 140C 400 KPa 650KPa 400 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 04 (FONGS) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 120 kg 01 PD 5500 2003 CAT2 Page 176
Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
140C 400 KPa 650KPa 400 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 05 (FONGS) Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 30 kg 01 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140C 350 KPa 520KPa 350 KPa 2006 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
Dyeing Machine: 06 (FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 60 kg Number of nozzle 01 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140C Design Pressure 350 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 520KPa Safety Valve Set 350 KPa Year of Construction 2007 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 07 (FONGS) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 60 kg 01 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140C
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Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
350 KPa 520KPa 350 KPa 2007 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Controller FC 28 T 737xL T 737Xl T 737xL T 737xL T 737xL FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22
Grey fabrics
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Following types of gray fabrics are dyed in ViyellaTex: Single jersey Single jersey with lycra Polo pique Back Pique Single lacoste Double Lacoste Fleece Rib Rib with lycra 11 rib
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Type
Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye
Source
Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dychufix Dychufix Dychufix Dychufix Dychufix Sumitomo Sumitomo Sumitomo Sumitomo
Origin
GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN KORIA KORIA KORIA KORIA
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Sunfix Yellow S3RD Sunfix Red S3BD Bezactive Red VBN Bezactive Yellow V2R BezactiveTurquisVC Bezactive Red S2B Bezactive blue-SLF Imcozyn Black VB Imcozyn Red 3BF Imcozyn Yellow E3R Irncozyn Blue V3R Imcozyn T. Blue VG ImcozynBr.OrangeVR Terasil Yellow W4G TerasilG.Yellow W3R Terasil Navy WRS Terasil Red W4BS Terasil Blue WBLS Terasil Black WNS Terasil Black BFE Levafix Blue CA Levafix Rubine CA Levafix Amber CA Ciba Yellow HG Ciba Blue HRN Ciba Red HBL Ciba Orange EBR
Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye
Sumitomo Sumitomo Bezema Bezerna Bezema Bezerna Bezerna Impo color Impo color Impo color Impo color Impo color Impo color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color
KORIA KORIA SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY
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Germany India China India China Srilanka India Germany India Germany China China Germany Germany
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Check pH
70%progressive 50 minutes
Check pH Runtime20
Runtime10
Runtime20
10
60C
Sample check
In case of s/j low gsm fabric anti-creasing agents have to use in scouring & with R- hot. In case of s/j low gsm fabric heating and cooling during scouring & R- hot have do with gradient. Heating-2.5C/min. Colling-1.5C/min It is 60C isothermal dyeing.
MIR 10
Bath drop
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Check pH
10 minutes
70%progressive 50 minutes
Leveling agent
60C
Runtime10 Runtime15
In case of s/j low gsm fabric anti-creasing agents have to use in scouring & with R- hot. In case of s/j low gsm fabric heating and cooling during scouring & R- hot have to do with gradient. Heating-2.5C/min. Colling-1.5C/min It is 60C isothermal dyeing.
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Color= Black
Nature of fabric=PC(Fleece) GSM= 280 M:L=1:6 For Polyester part dyeing Feloson NOF=1% AB-45=1% T Yell W-3R=0.16800% T Red W 4BS=0.3400% T Black SNRL=2.3880 % For Reduction Cleaning Hydrous=3 g/l Caustic=3 g/l Pretreatment WBL=0.7% CBB=0.5 g/l Caustic=2 g/l H2O2=2.5 g/l PC=0.75 g/l Acetic Acid=1 Enzyme INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Acid=0.8 B11=0.75 Securon-540=0.5 Cotton part dyeing A41=0.5% SUN Yell MF3RD=0.73% SUN Red MF3BD=0.3365% RS Black-WM=5.6416% Salt=90 g/l Soda ash=5 g/l Caustic=1.75 g/l After treatment Acetic Acid=0.8 g/l JS100=1.5% SAMPLE
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Taurquies color
Nature of fabric: S/J GSM= 160 Pretreatment NOF=0.5% CL=0.5% Feloson NOF=0.7% KAPAZON-h53=0.5% KAPAVON CL=1% Caustic=2 g/l H2O2=2.5 g/l ROCORIT-WEZ=0.75 g/l Acetic Acid=1 Acetic Acid=0.8 Biopolish-B11=1.5 g/l Securon-540=0.5% Dyeing CS=0.5% KAPAVON CL=0.5% SV=1.5% ADM=1% IM BR YELL V-4GL=0.8060% TURQ V-G=0.6800% BLUE VCR=0.0132% Salt=50 g/l Soda=ash=14 g/l After treatment Acetic Acid=0.8% Sapamine C.W.S=1.5% SAMPLE
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SELECT M/C NO. FABRIC LOADING SELECT PRODUCTION PROGRAMME PRETREATMENT SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO DYEING POST TREATMENT UNLOAD
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Fabric load Water fill NOF + A. Acid (Run time10) At 60C Drain bath Water fill( From PT) Detergent/wetting agent + Stabilizer +Anticreasing agent (inject) At 60C Caustic (Linear dosing 5) At 60C H2O2 dosing At 70C Then temp. raised to 105C & run 30 Water drain H2O2 Killer hot wash (800C X10 min) HOT WASH (10) Water Drain & Water fill Acetic Acid (Run 10 at 60C) Water drain
Enzyme wash
As per Buyer requirement Enzyme wash is given. Water fill + fabric load Temp. raised to 55C A.Acid(inject) PH check (4.5-4.7) Enzyme (Dosing for 10 ) Run 60 at 55C Sequestering agent at 90C Run 10 Water drain
Process Sequence of Dyeing (for different types shade) Flow Chart for OBA Treatment
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Water fill + fabric load Temp. raised to 70C Detergent/wetting agent + Stabilizer (Inject) Caustic dosing 10 at 70C Run 10 H202 Dosing 10 Run 10 OBA dosing 10 Temp. raised to 105C & run 50 Cooling to 78C Water drain & Water fill Normal hot wash at 80C Bath drain & water fill Temp. controlled at 55C Acetic Acid inject & run 10 Water drain & Water fill CS hot wash at 90C Run 10 Water drain & Water fill Normal wash at 45C 10 Fabric unload
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Check ph 6.5-7 Leveling agent injection Run 10 min Color dosing linear (600 c x 35 min) Run 20 min Salt dissolving (600 c x 15 min) Run 20 min Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (600 c x 50 min) Check ph 11.5 Sample check MIR rising 10 min Bath drop
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MIR wash 10 Normal hot 70C Run time 15 MIR wash 15 Acetic Acid inject at 45C & run 10 Hot with NOF + Soaping agent At 80C & run 10 Sample check Wash at 90C for 10 Sample check at 78C Rinsing Fixing agent + Softener Sample check If OK , Then bath drain If not OK, Then Addition is given
Addition
Dye dosing for 20 Run 20 at 60C Sample taken If ok, Then Bath drain If not ok, Then Topping is Done
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Reduction cleaning
Water fill Caustic Dosing (700C X 5 min) Run 20 Raising Temp at 900C Hydrose dosing Run time (20 min) Bath Drain Normal wash Drain
Drain
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Salt dosing (10 min x 60C) Run time 20 min Color dosing (30 min x 60C) Run time 20 min Soda dosing (50 min x 60C) Run time 10 min Caustic dosing (30 min x 60C) Check ph Sample check Normal hot wash Drain MIR rising 10 min Bath drop
After Treatment
Water fill Temp. raised Acetic Acid inject at 45C & run 10 J.S100 at 80C & run
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About Machine
In VIYELLATEX two Brands of machines are usedTHIES (GERMANY) FONGS(CHINA) Comparison between Fongs And Thies dyeing m/s Parameter 1 .Manufacturer 2.No of additional 01 tank 3.Heat exchanger Vertical 4.OperatingT 737 XL System 2 Production nozzle/lid,So 5.Nozzle& Thies Germany Fongs China 02 Horizontal FC 22/FC 28 1 nozzle/lid, Less pro dn.
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Compressed air
Filter
The filter eliminates the loose fibres in the dye bath, consequently it reduces the loose fibre loads on the fabric. Changing and cleaning the filters is sometimes forgotten, with the result that the dyeing machine's nozzle pressure decreases, with the effect that running is disturbed and tangles can occur. automatic self cleaning filter system No cleaning of filter. No pressure variation in the nozzles due to lint buildup due to automatic regulation system. No lint on fabric due to 100 % filtration of the circulation liquor.
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Additional Tank
Addition tank is used for Color dosing Salt dosing Chemical dosing Auxiliaries injection Salt dissolving Theory of Application Two fluids, of different starting temperatures, flow through the heat exchanger. One flows through the tubes (the tube side) and the other flows outside the tubes but inside the shell (the shell side). Heat is transferred from one fluid to the other through the tube walls, either from tube side to shell side or vice versa. The fluids can be either liquid or gases on either the shell or the tube side. In order to transfer heat efficiently, a large heat transfer area should be used, so there are many tubes. In this way, waste heat can be put to use. This is a great way to conserve energy.
Heat exchanger
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Two standard nozzle sizes with sufficiently large diameter are available. Circulation pump is sized for heavy fabric Production capacity:500kgs Max temperature:98C Max pressure:1atm
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MIR RINSING
Multi-function intelligent rinsing system If the temperature is below 80C It is a Low Level Continuous Rinsing Shorten Rinsing Time Save Rinsing Water Fill and Drain at the same time at low level
MSR Rinsing
MULTI- SAVING RINSING SYSTEM
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If the temperature above 80c It is Combined Cooling and Rinsing at high temperature Save Steam in Hot Rinsing Rinsing efficiency at higher temperature is faster, so rinsing time is shortened
The factors to feed and check before loading Variable Chamber setting according to the linear density and loading. Calculate and feed the exact MLR and feed in batch Data Ensure the MSR level and MIR level and flow. Ensure the pH of Dyeing
The factors to concentrate during dyeingThe operator should change the filter After Enzyme wash After Drain dyeing Bath After Rinsing Bath
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DYEING
Water level (Lit) Check PH before color/salt dosing Total time for color dosing Total run time Total time for salt dosing Total run time Check PH after salt dosing Total time for soda dosing Check PH after soda dosing(Afterrunningthem/c05min) Total time need to B/D Drain the m/c Total time for MIR/ Rinsing Drain the m/c Total time for acid Check PH and TDS(ppm) Temp for soaping Soaping time Drain the m/c 2ndsoapingtemp Soapingtime Drain the m/c Total MIR/Rinsing time
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Using dyes of high fixation property. Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Lack of control on dyeing m/c Remedies: By ensuring even pretreatment. By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
Remedies: Use standard dyes and chemicals. Maintain the same liquor ratio. Follow the standard pretreatment procedure. Maintain the same dyeing cycle. Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. .
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The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
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Use standard dyes and chemicals. Proper m/c speed. Use of soft water
Crease mark:
Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope Shock cooling of synthetic material If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal Due to high speed m/c running Remedies: maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Reducing the m/c load Higher liquor ratio
Dye spot:
Causes: Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath. Remedies: By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
Wrinkle mark
Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope
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Shock cooling of synthetic material High temperature entanglement of the fabric Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Higher liquor ratio
Softener Mark:
Causes: Improper mixing of the Softener. Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Proper Mixing of the softener before addition. Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
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Finishing:
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber
Objective of finishing:
Improving the appearance Luster, whiteness, etc
Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness suppleness fullness, etc.
, ,
proofing, etc. Covering of the faults in the original cloth. Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Types of finishing:
a) b) 1) Chemical finishing: Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers. Application of the handle modifying products / additives. 2) Mechanical finishing: Mechanical treatment with machines
Finishing effects:
Easy - care Crease recovery. Dimensional stability. Good abrasion resistance. Improved tear strength. Good sew ability Soft or stiff handle. Shine or luster
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Finished Fabric
Finished Collar / Cuff Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor Quality Controller Asst. Quality Controller
On line System
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor Quality Controller Asst. Quality Controller Quality Controller Asst. Quality Controller
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INSPECTED FABRIC
DEWATERING M/ C
STENTER
ROLLING M/ C
WEIGHTING M/ C
TUBE COMPACTOR
DRYER
STENTER
RAISING M/ C
RAISING M/ C
TOILET
RAISING M/ C
SUEDIN G M/ C
FABRIC INSPECTION M/ C
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Tube fabric Dewatering machine Drying Machine Tube compacting machine Final inspection
Flow chart:
For Lycra:
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SLITTING MACHINE
Slitting Machine specification: No of Slitting m/c : 02 Slitting m/c-1: Brand name- Corino(SH) Country- Italy Year of manufacturing-2007 Slitting m/c-2: Brand name- Bianco(SH) Country- Italy Year of manufacturing-2007 Velocity maximum-90m/min Slitting: Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing.
Machine parts:
1. Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break Wales line. 2. Ring: To help cutting. 3. Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting. 4. Plaiting: To plait the fabric. 5. Sensor: Sense for cutting through break Wales line.
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Slitting Machine
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Working principle:
The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device. Operational parameter: -Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar) -Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
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DEWATERING MACHINE
Dewatering Machine specification: No of Dewatering m/c Machine no Machine name Brand name Country Padder pressure Pressure capacity Machine no Machine name Brand name Country Padder pressure Pressure Capacity : 02 : 01 : Dewatering : Heliot : France : 1-1.5 bar : 4 bar : 02 : Dewatering : Heliot : France : 1-1.5bar : 4 bar
Function:
Reduce water content. Apply chemicals. Apply over feed to give some compaction. Open the fabric from the rope form. Width wise stretch the fabric. Plait the fabric.
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Dewatering Machine
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DRYER
Machine specification : No. of Dryer : 02 Dryer no -1 Brand name- Heliot Origin- France Chamber-3 Year of construction 2006 Ratiomatic Burner: Brand name:ECLIPSE Year-03/2002 Capacity-300 kw Voltage-230/400 v Frequency-50Hz Fuel- Natural gas Pressure- (150-500) m bar Dryer no- 2 Brand name-Santex AG Origin Switzerland Type-SANTASHINK Chamber -5 Year of construction- 2008 Fuel combustion chamber: Fuel- Natural gas Fuel pressure-7.2m bar Capacity-300kw Voltage-240/400v Frequency-50Hz Year-12/2007
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Dryer
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Stenter machine
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FUNCTION OF STENTER:
Drying Shrinkage control. Heat setting. Width control Finishing chemical application. Loop control. Moisture control. Spirility control.
PARAMETER
FOR
Padder Pressue 2 bar 2.5 bar 2 bar 2 bar 1.52bar 2 bar 2 bar 2 bar 2 bar 2 bar
DIFFERENT
Speed (rpm) 30-35 25-30 25-30 24-28 25-30 20-25 20-25 24-28 20-25 20-25 Blower rpm 11001300 12001400 12001400 12001400 12001400 12001400 13001400 13001400 12001400 12001400
Tempera Over ture Feed 110-140 120-170 130-160 140-160 130-160 130-160 140-170 130-160 140-160 130-160 4045% 4045% 50% 50% 4045% 50% 4045% 45% 45% 50%
Single 115-150 2+ jersey Single 160-220 2+ jersey Lycra Single 160-200 4+ jersey Lycra Single 200-250 4+ jersey Pique Lycra Pique Fleece/Terry 1x1 Rib 2x2 Rib Interlock 160-200 3+ 190-220 4+ 260-300 4+ 160-220 2+ 190-220 2+ 190-220 3+
*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle. *Others fabric feed, straight.
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COMPACTOR
Machine specification of compactor: No. of Compacting m/c: 02 Tube Compactor: Machine name Tube compactor Brand name Heliot Country - France Manufacturing Year 2004
Tube Compactor machine Open Compactor: Machine name Open compactor Brand name FERRARO Country Italy Manufacturing Year 2004
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Function
To control shrinkage. To control width. To control GSM. To smooth fabric. Heat seating of fabric for lycra.
Important parts
Over feed roller. Expander. Blanket(2)
Operational parameter:
-Set the temperature at 120 C (as required) -Set the speed as much as possible (15-25 m/min).GSM m/c speed. -Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to increase to a certain limit.
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FOR
DIFFERENT
Speed 15-18 15-18 15-18 15-18 12-16 12-16 15-20 15-20 12-15 12-15 12-16 12-16
Over Feed 25-30 25-30 30-35 30-35 Full over feed 20-30 20-30 25-30 25-30 Full over feed
Temperatur e 90-110 110-120 100 110-120 100-110 100-120 100 110-120 100 110-120 100 110-120
36psi 36psi
Lycra s/j White Colour 1x1 Rib 2x2 Rib White Colour White Colour White Colour
36psi 36psi
Interloc k
36psi
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*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle. *Others fabric feed, straight.
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RAISING MACHINE
Machine specification of Raising Machine : No. of Raising m/c : 02 Raising m/c - 01(Single drum) Brand name - Lafer Country - Italy Cylinder -1 Drum Speed - 110 Drum Dia - 68 inch Machine Speed - 40 m/min Pile Roller - 12 Counter Pile Roller - 12 Manufacturing Year 2002
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Raising m/c-02(Double drum) Brand name Lafer Country Italy Cylinder- 2 Drum Speed - 110 Drum Dia - 68 inch Machine Speed - 40 m/min Pile Roller - 24 Counter Pile Roller - 24 Manufacturing Year 2002
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SUEDING MACHINE
A sueder is sometimes referred to a s a sander since the machine consists of one or more rolls covered with sand paper as the abrasive. Fabrics traveling over these rolls develop a very low pile and the materials surface can be made to feel like suede leather. The hand will depend on the fiber composition, the filament count in the yarn and the intensity with which the fabric is worked. Filament fabrics can be made to feel like a spun fabric and all fabrics will have a softer hand. Machine Specification of Sueding Machine: No.Of Sueding m/c: 01 Brand name Country Cylinder Company name Model Drum Speed Drum Dia Machine Speed Manufacturing Year : Lafer :Italy :1 : SPA Machine Tessili : GSI 106 : 110 : 72 inch : 40 m/min :2002
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Sueded Fabric
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FAULT
HOLE RUB MARK OIL STAIN DYE STAIN WATER SPOTS FLY YARN YARN CONTAMINATION SOFTENER SPOT PATCHES HAIRY NEEDLE LINE DEAD COTTON CREASE MARK
CAUSE
DUE TO YARN BREAKAGE AND YARN FAULT IF THE DUST OF ENZYME IS NOT CLEAN PROPERLY OIL STICK ON FABRIC FROM NEEDLE, SINKER OR CYLINDER DYES POWDER FALLS ON TO THE WET FABRICS BEFORE INSPECTION IF FABRIC STORED IN WET FLOOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF YARN MIXED DURING KNITTING DIFFERENT DUST OR SLUBS MIXED DURING KNITTING IF SOFTENER IS USED UNDER 45C
REMIDIES
USE GOOD QUALITY OF YARN FLOW CONTINUOUS AIR TO FABRIC DURING COMPACTING USE SOLUBLE OIL AND KEEP THE M/CS CLEAN STORE THE FABRICS BY COVERING BY WASHING AND STORE FABRIC IN DRY PLACE COVER THE KNITTING M/C DURING KNITTING KEEP THE M/C AREA CLEAN
USE SOFTENER UNDER REQUIRED TEMP. IF SODA IS NOT USED USE SODA PROPERLY PROPERLY IF THE ENZYME WASH GIVE ENZYME WASH IS NOT PROPERLY PROPERLY DONE FOR FAULTY NEEDLE REPLACE THE FAULTY NEEDLE FOR IMMATURE FIBRE USE YARN OF MATURED FIBRE FOR THERMAL SHOCK, INCREASE DYEBATH UNEVEN TEMP. NOZZLEPRESSURE SLOWLY,MAINTAIN AND BAD QUALITY NOZZLE PRESSURE LEVELLING AGENT AND USE GOOD QUALITY LEVELLING AGENT
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Sample Development :
Sample is the prototype or model o the garment, upon what the buyer can decide on how and whiter to confirm the order or not.
Officer/Coordinator Fabric Coordinator Sample man Accessories Issue Man Cutter man Iron Man Purchase/Marketing man Sample Asst. Sample Input man Sample Operator
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Grading of sample
Sending sample to the buyer
software for pattern making. 3. Sample Making: Sample making is the ultimate goal of this department. After making the pattern, the sample is made by using the pattern set. 4. Size Setting: After making the sample, size is set according to the Tec Pack. If there is any fault, the sample is redone 5. Pre Production (PP) Meeting: after the buyer has inspected the sample, a preproduction meeting is called. In this meeting buyer or his agent, merchandiser, sample manager. all remain present. They decide on how to and when to start the production. If the decision Okayed. the sample is ready to go for final production. 6. Grading of Sample: After finalizing the sample. grading is done to separate the samples and patterns from each others. 7. Marker After grading the samples. the design is inputted into the marker software. This software specifies how to set the pattern in the actual fabric. By using the marking software efficiently, fabric can be saved. Viyellatex uses Gerbar Garment Technology (GGT) for marker making. 8. Cutting: After making the pattern is delivered to the cutting unit and the fabric is cut for final production.
Sample Procedure
There are some standard sample procedures after pattern making, the are as follows, Sourcing the Fabric and Accessories for making the Garment Cutting (For Sample Only) Emblishment Sewing Iron Quality Control (QC) Pre check from Buyer QC Forwarding form the merchandiser Sending sample to the buyer
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Sample
Proto/ Development Sample Size set/Grad / Fitting Sample Additional Sample (White only magazine , Photo)
Use
To converts pattern in to actual garment. To fit the styling of the garments All these samples are made to how the garments no the rack To gain approval before the bulk production To gain approval before the bulk production To gain approval for shipping the garments To gain approval for shipping the garment To show the garment on the rack
04 05 06 07 08
Contract Seal / Seal sample Per Production (pp) sample Production Sample Sales Man Sample (SMS) Rack Sample
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Types of Machine
Sampling process is the most important department in a garment factory . With proper sample, one can not achieve enough order. Do there is several number of machine are used in the sampling section and craftsmanship in also very important Serial no 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 Type of machine Single needle Lock Stitch 4 Thread Over Lock Flat Lock Blind Lock Chain Stitch Machine (Single Needle) Over Lock Open stitch PMD Kansai Bar tack Button Attach Button Hole Shade stick Thread Recone snap button Plain Machine Zig Zag Back Neck beck tape attack Total Qty in pcs 52 20 17 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 102 Use Single Stitch Using 4 treads to lock the joint Normal Stitch Straight Overlock Hem Making chain stitch in the garment Over Lock Attaching Parts Heavy Stitch Attaching button in the garment Making button hole Straight sewing Thread transferring between bobbins Metal button Attachment Crosses sewing Attaching back neck tape
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If it is found that an adjustment is required in the master pattern, than cutting manager, buyer QC and pattern master check and make necessary correction as per grading and informs pattern and CAD section.
Then cutting department collects fabrics for bulk production from store and checks whether the GSM of every roll is fine or not and check the width of fabric for that lot.
If fabric GSM is ok, cutting department sends information to CAD section containing in which width and ratio of fabric they are going to cut that particular cutting.
CAD prepares marker and sends it If in that style self fabric for neck is required, to the cutting section. Cutting in charge informs the spreading machine operator to keep particular amount of fabric from each roll. Spreading starts and completed. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
Marker is placed on the lay and then costape is attached. Cutting starts and completed.
A spread sheet containi number of ng layer in that cutting, how many parts in a garment goes to the ckering sti Section by p reader machine operator. s Bundle cards are made ready.
Stickersare made ready. Stikering starts and completed and sticker attached parts are send to bundling area.
If other operations are needed such as Print, Embroidery , cutting departmentsends the cut panels to the storeand later collects them from the store and checks whether there is any alte or not. r Print and Embroidery panels are checked and if some alter and rejects are found bundle cards the are re-written making necessary adjustments.
Solid parts.
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SEWING SECTION
List of machines in Sewing Unit:
Machine name
Plain Stitching m/c Over Lock Stitching m/c Flat Lock m/c Button Hole m/c Button Stitching m/c Bar Tack m/c Picoting m/c Plain zig zig m/c Kansai m/c Two Needle Chain Stitching m/c Two Needle Lock Stitching m/c Suttle Stitching m/c Fusing m/c Heat Transfer m/c
M/C quantity
1290 600 400 25 25 40 02 04 10 40 06 04 09 13
Machine Specification:
Brand Name Juki Pegasus Kansai Brother Pup Sun Star Country Japan Japan Japan Japan Japan Korea
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Check hole body of the garments i.e., inside & outside , stitch, neck, placket, 4 point etc.
Q. Pass
Q. Fail Recheck
Q. Pass
Q. Fail
Q. Pass
Q. Fail
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Reject
Q. Pass
Fail
Pass
Reject
Fail
Pass
6. Get-up check
Pass
Fail
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Pass
Fail
Pass
Fail/reject
9. Getup iron (If appearance is not good) 10. Metal detector 11. Q. check (only appearance check due to new buyer or buyer requirement but all body are passed ) 12. Folding 13. Poly pack 14. Assorting 15. Blister (According to buyer requirement) 16. cartoning 17. Carton sticker attach 18. SHIPMENT Hard tag attach (if buyer requirement)
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ORGANOGRAM
CEO COO DGM EXECUTIVE PRODUCTION OFFICER SUPERVISOR SHIFTSUPERVISOR QUALITY SUPERVISOR SUPERVISOR OPERATOR Q.I STORE STUFF HELPER LOADER
STORE
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MACHINE CAPACITY
DRYING MACHINE: COSMOTEX: CAPACITY=50-60 KG TEMP= 150C ORIGIN = SPAIN GREENMAC: CAPACITY=40-50 KG TEMP = 70-75C ORIGIN = CHINA DYEING MACHINE: COSMOTEX: CAPACITY=150 KG TEMP.= 100C ORIGIN = SPAIN SAMPLE DYEING MACHINE: COSMOTEX: CAPACITY=30 KG TEMP.= 100C ORIGIN = SPAIN HYDRO-EXTRACTOR: GREENMAC: R.P.M= 2000 ORIGIN= CHINA
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PURPOSE increases the spreading and penetrating properties of a liquid by lowering its surface tension low foaming, ensure smooth dyeing process. Are slowing down the exhaustion speed of the dyestuffs REDUCE COLOR BLEEDING TO FIX THE DYE MOLECULES INTO THE FIBRE FASTNESS IMPROVEMENT, REDUCE UNFIXED DYE FEELING SOFT OF THE FABRIC INCREASES THE STRENGTH OF THE FABRIC to create acidity medium and to control the PH.
LEVELLING AGENT
DBC
BASF
GERMANY
GERMANY ITALY
TEX CONCERN
TO CHANGE THE ORGINAL COLOR TO REMOVE HAIRINESS TO CONVERT THE FABRIC INTO ANIONIC FORM TO CATIONIC. to bind the pigment particles and develop adhesion to a surface
MULTI CHEMI
SRILANKA
2. 3. 4. 5.
GARMENT WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD DETERGENT DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C) RUN 5 MIN. BATH DRAIN NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES WATER FILL SOFTENER DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C) RUN 5 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD HYDRO-EXTRACTOR DRYER
ENZYME WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD NOF DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55C) A. ACID DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55C) CHECK PH=4.5 ENZYME DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55C) RUN UNTIL DESIRED RESULT BATH DRAIN NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES SOFTENER DOSING (3 MIN. AT 45C) RUN 10 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD HYDRO-EXTRACTOR DRYER
VINTAGE WASH
SODA+ DETERGENT, DOSING (5 MIN. AT 60C) RUN 20 MIN. BATH DRAIN A. ACID DOSING (3 MIN. AT NORMAL TEMP.) RUN 5 MIN. SOFTENER DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C) RUN 10 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD HYDRO-EXTRACTOR DRYER
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD POTTASH DOSING (10 MIN. AT 45C) RUN UNTIL REQUIRED RESULT BATH DRAIN META DOSING (10MIN. AT 45C) RUN 10 MIN. BATH DRAIN SOFTENER DOSING (3 MIN. AT 45C) RUN 10 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD HYDRO-EXTRACTOR DRYER
ACID WASH
NORMAL WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
DETERGENT DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C) RUN 5 MIN. BATH DRAIN NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD HYDRO-EXTRACTOR DRYER
Check Points
Require of shade Hand feeling Printing Embroidery Fabrics fault Washing effects Spirality Label Zipper
Bleeding
Reject
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PRINTING
General Overview Area Covered=50,000 sft( 2 flo0r) Manpower=450 Per table=12-13 Auto screen m/c=7-8 Heat press m/c=3-4 Curing m/c=2-3 Capacity of Printing= 40,000-45,000 pcs per day Machine Type Screen shot Drying Expose shot Heat press Curing Machine information Auto screen shot Manual screen shot Auto dryer Hand dryer Auto expose shot Manual expose shot Depends on pressure & temp. range Depends on temp. & belt speed NO. of M/C 4 4 100 1 3 6 7
Printing System
Sereen Printing Hand screen printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing
Brand name: Diamond back Red chili Country : USA No. of Head : 12 Max. Color used : 8 Drying head :2 M/C NO:4 Brand name: Diamond back Red chili Country : USA No. of Head :8 Max. Color used : 6 Drying head :2
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Count the fabric Inspection the fabric Fabric adjusted Bulk production start Hydro extractor from dryer Inspection Finishing Delivery
Types of print
Rubber print Pigment print(Water base print) Foil print Discharge print Puff print Glitter print Afsan print High density print Plastisol print Crack print Gel print Sticker/transfer print Reflective
Design
Artwork receive from development Detail design perform & analyze by Adove photoshop & illustrate INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
Prepare individual film for different color by work express software Send to expose room
Screen Preparation:
Mesh fabric tight with frame Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air. Placed design paper under the mesh. Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min. Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.
Sequence of printing
Count garment parts Screen preparation Printing paste preparation Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion Printing the garment part by using screen Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 1800 c Inspection is done in qualify control department
Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec
Print Type
Glitter Afsan, Discharge pigment Rubber,Puff, High density, Foil, Gel, Plastisol, Reflective, Crack
Not properly attach Dirty marks Uneven print Air bubble Air hole Shade variation
1. Generally all types of print are performed 2. More time consuming 3. Drying performed by hand or auto dryer
Drying
1. Hand drying 2. Auto drying It is performed to dry previous color temporally Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color
Curing
Curing is the ultimate drying of print Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.
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EMBROIDERY
ORGANOGRAM OF EMBROIDERY CO (Embroidery) Embroidery manager Assistant manager (designer) Supervisor man Q.I operator Helper Senior operator Assistant operator Frame men M/c men Helper Iron men Helper senior ( A.Q.C) Sample
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Method
Bed:
Interlining: Four types of interlining are used in Viyellatex3. Soft 4. Hard 5. Dot line
6. EB-50(PUMA)
Design Analysis
Art work from buyer Input to ES-65(Software) Design analysis INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Send to buyer Recommendation & correction from buyer Sample prepare Send to buyer If approved then for bulk production
Embroidery Faults
Stitch gap Bobbin out Oil spot Thread loose Embroidery position wrong Needle hole Over stich INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
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Maintenance
Maintenance is a procedure by which we can maintain active functioning in operation according to the behavior and utility of a particular element. Machine, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use and exposure to environmental condition. Process of deterioration, if unchecked. culminates in rendering these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a standstill. In Industry, therefore has no choice but to attend them from time to time to repair and recondition them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically and physically possible to do so. In engineering, we use this terminology for maintaining smooth and uninterrupted performance of machines, tools and metallurgical characteristics in practical uses
Objective of maintenance:
To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working condition. To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer. To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thuds to have control over the production program. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range. To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
Preventive
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful description.These actions are performed to prevent or reduce consequences of failures. Schedule maintenance: Maintenance of different machines are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department. It is time-based maintenance and pre-planned to perform on machine and equipments Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different important parts are done. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
Maintenance:
Items need to be checked & Serviced Check and tightening all motor terminals. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and circular fan on top machine. Check and clean the interfacing and data cables. Check and tightening the proximity switch terminals. Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the panel. Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and emergency switch. Functional test of the yarn detector.
items need to be checked & Serviced Check and tightening all motor terminals and clean the motor (3odays). Check activity of wide and sensor and pneumatic regulator. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals Clean the A/C ventilation fans of panel board Check the fan and the heat sink o the inverters in the panel board. Check and tightening the edge sensors. Check and tightening the photo sensor terminals. Check and tightening the safety light barrier and tightening terminals. Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the panel. Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and emergency switch.
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Check List of Different Parts Maintenance : Mechanical Machine : Dyeing machine SL. No.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ii 12
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Visual checking of all power & control cables. Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank Check all pneumatic solenoids Check calibration of heating/cooling modulating value Check setting of tangle sensor. Check setting & operation of lid safely switches. Check all emergency switches Check all indicating lamps Check all on/off switches Check all signal isolators. 1. Combination tools / spanner Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 2. Socket ratchet set Function: Tightening of nuts & bolts. 3. Slide range Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 4. Monkey pliers Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 5. Pipe threat cutting tools Function: To cut the threat in pipe. 6. Bearing puller Function: To assist the opening of bearing from shaft. 7. Pipe range Function: Tightening & loosening of pipe joint. 8. Pipe cutting tools Function: For pipe cutting. 9. Hole punch Function: Punching the hole. 10. Divider Function: For circle marking on metal & wood. 11. Easy opener Function: To open the broken head bolt. 12. External threat die Function: For external threat cutting. 13. Heavy scissor Function: Cutting of gasket & steel sheet. 14. Oil can Function: Oiling of moving parts. 15. Drill machine and drill bit. Function: For drilling. 16. Grease gun Function: For greasing of moving parts of rn/c. 17. Grinding m/c Function: For grinding & cutting of mild steel. 18. Welding m/c INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
Function: For welding & cutting. 19. Spirit leveler Function: For perfect leveling. 20. File Function: For smoothing the surface. 21. Hammer Function: For scaling & right angling. 22. Circlip tools Function: Circlip opening & closing. 23. Hacksaw blade Function: For metal cutting.
Maintenance:
They
always
follow
preventive
Solution
Remarks:
Maintenance of m/cs are very essential to prolong the m/c life and good maintenance is important consideration. It is necessary to check that all routine maintenance is being done regularly and properly otherwise efficiency of each department will be reduced.
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Number of Generator= Four Capacity= 4.25MW Manufacturer= Jenbacher (AUSTRIA) 1. Generator: 2. Panel:
To generate the power (volts & amps) for every section in the Factory. To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for every section in the factory.
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PFI panel:
To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for the boiler house, finishing section & dyeing section in the factory. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts
LT panel:
To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for the boiler house, finishing section & dyeing section in the factory. According there need. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts.
3. Distribution:
To supply the power (volts & amps) for the light, AC, fan etc in the different section. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts. 4. Generator control panel: To control the generator for generate power.
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BOILER Boiler:
The equipment used for producing steam from water is called steam generator or boiler. The boiler used for producing steam in GKL is Cochran boiler which is a fire tube type boiler. This produced steam is supplied by the steam line in different section. Simple vertical boiler of fire tube type is mainly used in small plant requiring small quantity of steam and where floor area is limited.
Classification of boilers: 1) Fire tube boiler( gas ) : Low pressure , low running cost , less chance
of busting but greater risk of damage . 2) Water tube boiler: High pressure, high running cost high chance of bursting & dont damage the whole boiler. As this factory used fire tube boilers and its description is given below. In boiler house, steam is produced at high temperature and pressure. This produced steam is supplied by the steam line in different section.
Working principle:
The gas is fed through the front side to the furnace where fire created by electric spark. The blower move the fire into the flue pipe by compress air and then the flue gases enter through the combustion chamber which is lined with fire bricks on the outer wall of boiler. The hot gases passing through the horizontal smoke tubes give their heat to the water and convert water into steam. This steam gets accumulated in the upper portion of shell from where it can be supplied to the users. Finally, the flue gases are discharged to the atmosphere through the smoke box and chimney.
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Gas
Burner
Boiler
Blower
Steam
Factory house
Capacity= 17ton
Boiler Specification
Boiler No Machine Name (Functional) Boiler Type Brand Name Model Name Max. Steam Output Test Pressure Volume Year of Manufacture Country Name : : : : : : : : 01 Steam Generate Fire Tube Boiler : OMNICAL BOILER : 20424 6 t /h 20.5 bar 12540 L 2008 Germany.
Boiler No
02 Page 176
Machine Name (Functional) Brand Name Model Name Max. Working Pressure Minn. Steam Temp. Max. Steam Temp. Test Pressure Volume Year of Manufacture Manufacturer's Name Boiler No Machine Name (Functional) Boiler Type Brand Name Model Name Max. Steam Output Test Pressure Volume Year of Manufacture Country Name
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
Steam Generate : SCHNEIDER-KESSEL BERLIN : HDD-P5000-10 10 bar 20C 185C 13.5 bar 5200 L 2006 German Thai Boiler Manufacturing Ltd. 03 Steam Generate Fire Tube Boiler : OMNICAL BOILER : 20424 6 t /h 20.5 bar 12540 L 2008 Germany.
COMPRESSED AIR
Compressed air is produced by air compressor. There are four air compressors for producing compressed air. Manufacturer= GERMANY(KAESAR)
STEAM
Steam is produce by Boiler. From the Water Treatment Plant, water is stored in a reserve tank and from there water goes to boiler & steam is produced.
GAS
The source of Gas is TITAS GAS LTD. The gas is supplied to gas generator or different section (Boiler- for heating water) from the main line of the TITAS GAS LTD.
Sources of Electricity:
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
Remarks:
As the biggest project the VIYELLATEX GROUP., so the vast utility systems. There is a skill manpower group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these utility services. They have to remain aware of solution on a great sense of responsibility for any type of problem due to utility supply.
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The back wash process to clean the vessel no-1,2 & 3. The back wash process should be done after 8-12hrs. After 40-48 hrs later the regeneration process should be done. It should be done after back wash process. After back wash the common salt dissolved with water in to the STT (salt saturated tank) the solution of common salt is ringing the resin by the injector. The use of 18% salt in the total solution. (Suppose, 5000 lit of solution the amount of salt 600kg). The resin is activated by the salt rising. Here used cationic resin (NaHSO3). If the PH of the water increase or decrease it should be control by the dosing chemical (Sodium Hypochlorite) from the chemical tank. A B C D E
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Permissible concentration
Colorless No bad smell < 50 7-8 Neutral < 150 mg/1 < 500 mg/1 < 0.1 mg/1 < 0.01 mg/1 < 0.005 mg/1 < 50 mg/1 < 5 mg/1 <0.i mg/1 < 50 mg/1 < 0.5 mg/1
Hardness check
The hardness should be checked after every 6 hrs. It should be checked by the hardness test kits. The using hardness test kits are Hanna Instrument. Made in Italy. If the hardness is going to be 0.5 on the syringe scale. Then have to do the regeneration process.
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Discharge Effluent
Sludge bed
Multifilter
Chlorintion Tank
Secondary clarifier
Aeratio n Tank
Biological.
Washing.
Bleaching:
2. dye include:
Reactive. Disperse.
3. Chemical includes:
Detergent Soda ash Caustic soda. H2O2 Stabilizer. Acetic acid.
Equalizer Tank:
Air circulation is water. occurred in this tank to reduce the temperature of the
Reaction Tank:
Use chemical: Soda Lime. Function: To remove the various color.
PH Control Tank:
Flocculation Tank
Use chemical: Polyelectrolyte & alum. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX Page 176
Function: To monitor performance of flocculation clarifier & separate solid waste. Function: Solid waste dried & send to outside for burial
Aeration Tank:
Use chemical: Urea, Phosphoric acid. Function: Bio logical oxygen demand & Chemical oxygen demand reduced here & diffused aeration system ensures high oxidation efficiency.
Secondary Clarifier:
Function: Remaining solid waste separate here. Reduced total solid.
Chlorination Tank:
Used chemical: Sodium hypochloride Function: Disinfection done here.
Multi filter:
Function: Extra suspended impurities separation by passing into the sand. Here removed suspended solution and correction the water color.
BSTIS standard:
Ph = 6-9 BOD = 50 mg/L COD= 200 mg/L Suspended solid = 150 mg/L Page 176
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CONCLUSION :
We have completed our industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah. Industrial attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the two months Industrial attachment at VIYELLATEX GROUP, we have got the impression that factory is one of the most modern export oriented knit composite complex in Bangladesh. Though it was established only a few years ago, it has earned very good reputations for its best performance over many other export oriented textile mills. During our training period, talking with the clients of this mill we knew that the mill is fulfilling the countrys best export oriented white finished fabric as well as very good colored fabric due to its modern machinery & good management system. Mill is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty-four hours. It had self-power generator system to satisfy total power consumptions of the mill. We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill. During the training period we are received cooperation and association from the authority full & found all man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. .\ll stuffs & officers were very sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal. There are some suggestions from us within our limited knowledge Some Suggestions: The dyeing floor is watery most of the time: it should be cleaned all the time. To increase overall efficiency, more skilled labor should be used in a project. The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance should be carried out when the m/c is out of action (wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out regularly. There should be a yarn dyeing project. Sitting arrangement of production officers should be improved.
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Lastly:
We tried our best to gather all necessary information but it is true that within this short period it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success but as a whole this industrial training was a satisfactory one and once again wed would like to thank the authority of VIYELLATEX GROUP. as well as our honorable teachers far their altruistic help and advice. We are fortunate enough that we have got an opportunity to have training in this mill. During the training period we have received enough co-operation and association from the authority and found all personnel. All stuffs and officers were very sincere and devoted their duties to achieve their goal.
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