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THE ANATOMY OF DRAPERY

T HE ANAT OMY OF DRAPERY _______________________________ BY IT SELF, DRAPERY IS QUIT E FLAT. BUT UNDER T HE FORCES OF GRAVIT Y, T ENSION, COMPRESSION AND PRESSURE, CLOT H FORMS INT O A VARIET Y OF SHAPES AND FOLDS. ________________

DRAPERY ON T HE HUMAN FIGURE t T HERE ARE SEVERAL IMPORTANT LANDMARKS ON T HE HUMAN FIGURE, PRODUCING FOLDS OF GRAVIT Y (A). YOU CAN USUALLY FIND T HEM AT T HE HIPS, SHOULDER, ELBOWS AND CHEST. SOMET IMES FOLDS CAN HANG PENDULOUSLY, UNBROKEN FROM T HE HIPS(1) T O T HE SHOES., OR FROM T HE SHOULDER (2) T O T HE HAND. AT OT HER T IMES, T HE FOLD IS BROKEN BY COMPRESSION AT T HE KNEE (3) OR ELBOW(4). YOU CAN FIND COMPOUND FOLDS OF T ENSION

AND COMPRESSION (B), WHERE LIMBS FOLD UPON T HEMSELVES AND AT T HE JUNCT URE OF LIMBS AND T HE T RUNK. T HE FOLDS OF T ENSION (C) OFT EN HELP T O DRAMAT IZ E T HE T HRUST OR GEST URAL MOVEMENT OF T HE LIMB, AS IT IS T UGGED FROM IT S POINT OF SUPPORT. T HE HUMAN FIGURE 1S IN CONSTANT MOVEMENT, AND SO ARE T HE FOLDS. BUT WIT H ST UDY, YOU WILL FIND T HAT FOLDS WILL T END T O GROUP AROUND T HESE MAJOR LANDMARKS. WHEN DRAWING CLOT HES, FIND T HESE MAJOR FOLDS FIRST, AND T HEN DRAW T HE SECONDARY, MORE T RANSIENT WRINKLES RUNNING OFF OF T HESE.

DONT LET YOUR FOLDS HANG IN AN EVEN, FLAT OR PARALLEL MANNER. LOOK FOR T HE OBLIQUE, T WIST ING AND T URNING QUALIT Y IN T HE PAT T ERN OF FOLDS. OFT EN, T HERE IS A COMMON POINT FROM WHICH T HESE FOLDS RADIAT E (G). BUT NO T WO FOLDS ARE EVER T HE SAME SIZ E. LOOK FOR VARIET Y IN T HE SIZ E OF YOUR FOLDS, WIT H SOME T HICK AND BROAD, AND OT HERS MINUT E AND DELICAT E. AND T RY NOT T O CONTAIN OR OVER SEPARAT E T HE FOLDS FROM T HE WHOLE, UNDERLYING MASS OF DRAPERY, OR YOUR DRAWING WILL LOOK AS IF IT HAD BEEN RENDERED FROM A DOLL OR FIGURET T E. T