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Modernist Cuisine
The Art and Science of Cooking
Volume 6
Kitchen
Manual
The Cooking Lab
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER 8: COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 2
How to Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven ............. .... 2
Cantonese Fried Rice ........ ........ ........ ........ .... .... ... ... ......... ....... 2
How to Roast a Chicken in a Combi Oven .......... ... ..... ....... .. 3
Combi Oven Roast Chicken .......... ... ................ ........ .............. 3
Combi Oven Rib Eye .......... .... ............ .. ............. .. ............. .. .... . 4
Roast Pigeon Crown .... ........................ .. ........ ............ .......... .... 4
Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli .. ...... .. .. .. ......... ....... .. ............ 5
CHAPTER 10: THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 6
Best Bets for Stocks .. .. .. .. .... .. ................................................... 6
Best Bets for Stock Aromatics .... ... .... ....... .. ............... ......... .. .. 8
Spiced Shellfish Stock .......................... ........ .... .... .... ........... .... 9
Paella Stock .. ................................................... ... ............ ... ... .... 9
Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock Infusion ............... 10
Brown Beef Stock .............. .. .. ...... .... .... ...... .......... .. ....... ......... 10
Brown Veal Stock .. .. .. .. ... ..... .. ........ .... ..... .... ..... .. ..................... 11
Pressure-Cooked White Chi cken Stock ...... .... .... .... ........... 11
Onion Stock .. .... .. .. .. .... ............... ... .. ... ...... .... ..... .. ....... ....... ..... 11
How to Make Stock Sous Vide .... ... ... .... ....... ........................ 12
Sous Vide Fish Stock .......... ..... ... ...... ..... .. ... .... ... ........... ......... 12
Sous Vide Vegetable Stock ............ .... .. ............ .. ..... ............... 13
Best Bets for Broths ............... ...... .. .... .. .... .. ............... .... ... ...... 14
Borscht Broth .. .. .................. ... ...... .... .... ..... ... ........ ........ ...... .... 14
Hon Dashi ............ .. ...... .. .... ..... ..... .. .... .. ..... .. .... .. ...... ..... .......... 15
Ham Broth .................. ........ .. ... ... .. ........... .......... ... ....... ...... ..... 16
Oxtail Pho Broth ................................................................... 16
Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf.. ...... .. ...................... 16
Laksa Broth .................. .... ...... .. ........................ ....... ... ............ 17
Bouillabaisse Broth .. ...... ...... ... ..... ........ .. ... .. .. ........... .. .......... . 17
Bacon Dashi ............... .. ..... .... ... ... .... .. ... ... ......... ...................... 18
Tom Yum Broth .... ........... ........... ... .. .... .... ... ...... .. ................... 18
Cured Ham Broth .... ....... .......... ... ..... ... ..... ..... .. ........ ........ ... ... 18
Baked Potato Broth ........ ...... .. .... ... .. ..... .. ........ .. ...... .. ... .......... 19
Goulash Broth ... ............ ......... ..... ................ ... .. ....... .. ....... ..... . 19
Mushroom Broth ............ ....... ....... .. ........ .. ..................... ........ 19
Best Bets for Infused Liquids .. .. .... .. .......... ....... ............ ........ 20
Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers ............. 21
Sous Vide Ponzu .................. .. ........................ ............. ....... .... 22
Best Bets for Lowering pH .. .. ......... .. .. .. .. ..... .... ... .. .. ....... ....... 22
Typical Acid Concentrat ions ........ .. ..................................... 23
Seaweed Vinegar .. ........ ..................... .. ..... ... ......... .. ..... ........... 23
Elder Flower Vinegar .......... ........ ............................... .. ........ . 23
Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette ...... ... .. .. .. ... .-.... 23
Constructed Red Wine Glaze .. ........... .. .............. .. .. .. .. .. ....... 24
Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol ......... .. ............... 24
Clove Oil ............................................. ........ .......... .. ....... ..... ... 25
Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice ......... ... : .... ..... ... ..... .. ..... .. ........ 25
Condrieu Butter ..................... ... .. .............. ..... .. ..... .... ..... ........ 25
Glazed Carrot ........................ ..... .... .. ..... ... ... .. ... ........... .... ...... 25
Marinated Spaghetti Squash .......... ... ........ ...... ....... .. ... .. .... ... 26
How to Wash Citrus Oil... .... ................ .. .... .... ....................... 26
Extracting Flavor with Alcohol. ....... ... ... ... ..... .. ..... ....... ....... . 26
Brown Butter Fumet.. ............... .. ..................... .. ....... ........ .... . 26
Hazelnut Oil Extract ........................ ... ......... ... .. ... ....... ....... ... 26
Best Bets for Extract s ...... .... ......................... ...... .. ... .............. 27
House Bitters .... .... ... ............... .. ......... ...... ........... .......... ..... .. .. 27
Fines Herbs Extract ................ .. ... ............ .............. ........... ..... 27
Best Bets for Infused Fats .. .... .. .......... ... .. .. ................ ............ 28
Shellfish Butter ..... ..... ........... .... ....................... ........... ... ........ 29
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil ........ ....... .... .. ..... .. .. .. ....... ... ........ 29
Spiced Chili Oil .......... ......... ........ : ...... .......... .... ........ ... ........ .. 29
Molasses Butter ........ .... .... .................... ... .......... ................ .. ... 29
Curry Oil ..... ......... .. ...... .......... .... .... .... ... ...... ......... ..... ............. 30
Crab Oi l .......... ......... ... ....... ..................................................... 30
Malaysian Aromatic Oil .. ... ..... ... .... .......... ....... ......... ............. 30
Additives to Preserve the Color and Flavor
of Fresh Juice ...... ....................... .......................................... ... 31
Meyer Lemonade ................................... .. ............. ..... ....... ... .. 31
Melon Water .... : .. .................... .... ... ........................ .... ....... ...... 31
Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi ........ .. ...... .. . 32
Sous Vide Berry Juice ............................................................ 32
Strawberry Consomme .......... ........ .............. ...... ..... ............. . 32
Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus ............. 33
St rawberry Gazpacho ................................. .... .... ........ .... ....... 33
Best Bets for Jus .. .. ................................... .. .. .. ...... ............... ... 34
Jus de la Presse ....................................................................... 34
Root Vegetable Jus .. ......... ..... ..... ..... .... .. ... ...................... ........ 36
Sous Vide Vegetable Jus ...................................... ...... ............ 36
Clam Juice .................. .......................................... .......... ........ 36
Lamb GarlicJus in a j ar ....... .... .... ............ .... .. ...... .... ............. 37
MushroomJus ...... ...... ..... ... ............................. ............ ...... ..... 37
Sous Vide MusselJuice ......................................................... 37
Toasted Oat Jus .. ... .. ....... ... ....... .. ...... .. ............ ....... ........ .... ... .. 38
Banyuls Glaze ...... ........ ..... ..... .. ...... ....... .. ...... .... .... ... ......... ..... 38
Tagine Base .............. ... ....... ...... ...... .. ........ .. ..... ....... .. ......... ..... 39
Squash Glaze ........ ............ .. ..... ... ..... ..... .......... .. ...... .............. .. 39
Sous Vide PrawnJus .... ... .... ...... ........... ..... ... ...... ................. .. . 39
Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus ................... ...... .. ........................ .. .. .40
Sous Vide Beef Juice .... ........................... .. ...... .. ....... ... .. ...... ... 40
Centrifuged Carotene Butter ......... .. .. .. ... .. .. .. .... .... .. .. ........ .. .40
Tomato Water ............ .. ... ... .......... ... ................. .... ...... .. .... ....... 40
Centri fuged PeaJuice ............................. .. .. ............ ... ........... 41
Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil .... .. .. .................... ...... .. . 41
Banana Yogurt ......... ...... .... ........ ... ................................ ......... 41
Best Bets for Consomme.. ....... .. ....... .. ..... .... .. .. .. ...... ........ ...... 42
Oyster Consomme.. .... ... ..... ...... ..... ... .. ....................... .... .... .... 42
Clar ifying a Consomme .. .......... .. ........................................ .. 43
Apple Cider Consomme ............................ ......... ..... .. .. .......... 43
Spring Garlic Consomme ....... .... .. .. ... ......... .... .......... .... ........ 44
Bagna Cauda Consomme .... ... .... ....... ....... .. ............ .... ...... .... .44
Pistachio Consomme .. ... ........... ........... ..... ..... ...... ................. 44
Pot-au-Feu Consomme ...... ... ........ ............. ....... ...... ... ... ...... .. 45
Oxtail Consomme .......... ...................... ............. .... .. .............. 46
Red Coleslaw ........ .... ....... ..................... ... ............................... 46
How to Distill wit h a Rotavap ...... ................ ..... .. ................. 47
Buddha's Hand Vodka .. ............... .............. ... .............. ....... .... 47
Vacuum- Concentrated Apple and Cabbage Juice .............. 47
Mock Turtle Soup ..... .................... ............. ..... ............. .... ...... 48
Indies Spice Blend ..... .... ...... .. ........ .. ... ............ ................. ...... 48
Quatre Epices ......... ...... ....................................... .. ....... ....... .. . 48
Chili Tomato Spice Blend .............. .... ........ .. .. .. ............ ......... 49
Page references of the form 4381 refer to volume 4, page 381. Selected component
recipes from the plated-dish recipes in volume 5 have been reprinted here. Each
appears in the chapter for which it is most relevant.
MOD ERNIST CUISI NE v
Memphis Rub ......................................................................... 49 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk ......... .. .. .. ............... 75
Kansas Rub .............................. ............................................... 49 Escolar with Red Wine Butter. .... .... ........... ... ..... .... .............. 75
Chaat Masala ...... .... ........ ................. .. ......... ....... ..................... 50 Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth ........... .... ... ... .......... 76
Sweet Spice Blend .................................................................. 50 Black Cod .. .. ............. .... .................. ... .... ................................. 76
Passion Fruit Granita ...... ....... ........... ...... .................... .......... 50 Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad .......... ........... .. .. 77
Fish Spice Mix .......... .... ........... .. ................................. .. .......... 51 Sous Vide Monkfish Pave ................................... .................. 77
Pain d 'Epices Powder ....................... .... ................................. 51 Sous Vide Snapper .. ... ... ....................... ........ .......................... 78
Citrus Spice .................................... .............. .. ........ .. .............. 52 Sous Vide Salmon ............................. ... ........................... .. ..... 78
Licorice Powder ................................. .. ................................ .. 52 Skate Pave with Bread Crust .................................. ... ...... .... . 78
Ras el Hanout .. .. .. .. ............ ....................... ..... ......... ... ........ ..... 52 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide .. .... .... .. 79
Exotic Spice Mixture .................... ... ...................... ................ 53 Sous Vide Mussels ......... .. ............... .................. ..................... 79
Pacojet Pea Soup .................. ... ............... .... ............................ 53 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry and Cocoa .. ..... . 80
Mozzarella Powder ............... ................. ...... ....................... ... 53 Shrimp Cocktail ..... .......... .... .................. ............................... 80
Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder ................ ......................... 53 Oyster Escabeche ............... .... ............ ... ................ .. ... .. ..... .... 81
How to Mill a Creamy Nut Butter ....................................... 54 Steamed Live Spot Prawn ............................ ....... .................. 81
Frozen Creme-Fraiche and Pine-Nut Cream ..................... 54 Poached Lobster Tail ........ .... ....... .. ....... ....... .. ....... ................ 81
Sour Rhubarb Sorbet.. .............................................. ............. 54 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry ...... ....... .................... 82
Romesco Sauce ....................... ............. .............................. ... . 54 Sous Vide Duck Confit Pave ........................ ...... .................. 82
Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees ............................ 55 Sous Vide Guinea Hen ........ .................................................. 83
Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree .... .... .......... .. ...... .............. 56 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Shellfish .... .... .... .... ............... 83
Creamed Watercress ... .... .. ........................... .. ............ ............ 56 Sous Vide Braised Snails .......................... .......... ................... 83
Pistachio Puree .. ......... .... ............. ..... .. ...... .. ... ............. ... ..... .. . 57 Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style .................... ..... .... ........ ...... .. 84
Black Truffle Concentrate ...................... ...... ..................... ... 57 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki..84
Celery Root Mousseline ............................................ .. ......... 57 Razor Clam with Sauce Verte ..... ......... ..... .. ..... ........ ...... ....... 85
Best Bets for Freeze-Drying ................................................. 58 Sous Vide Octopus ............... ....... .. ......... ..... ... .. .... ...... ..... .. .... 85
How to Use a Spray Dryer ... .. ..... .. ........................................ 59 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts ....... .... .. ... .................. .... 86
Spray-Dried Buttermilk ... ................... .. ....... ........... ... ........... 59 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and Orange Sauce ..... 87
Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice ........... ............................... 59 Crispy Duck Tongues ........................................ ................. ... 87
Prefreezing Temperatures for Freeze-Dried Foods ........... 59 Beef Shank Rillette .... .................... .. ..... ..... ... .... .. .. ...... .... .. .... . 87
Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules .... .... ............................. 60 Sous Vide Pork Belly ...... ...... .................... .................. .... ....... 88
Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster ...................... .. ....................... 60 Braised Lamb Shoulder ......... .. ...... ........ .. .... ...... .................... 88
Ramen Vegetables ....... .... ....................................................... 61 Beef Brisket .............. ............... .. ..... .. ..... ........ ......................... 88
Ramen Stock Powder ............................................................ 61 Pork Ribs .............................................................................. .. 88
How to Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice ........................... .. .... 62 Pulled Pork Shoulder .................... .. ........................ .. ...... .. .... 89
Strawberry Milk Shake ......................................................... 62 Braised Veal Foreshank ...................... ... ................................ 89
Orange Soda ...... .. .. ....... .. .... ............... .... .. ...... ........................ . 62 American Wagyu Beef Cheek ....... .................... .................... 89
Carbonated Golden Raisins ......................... .... .................... 63 Rare Flatiron Steak ........................................................ .. ..... 89
Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, Braised Short Ribs ................................................................. 90
and Miso Powder .................................................... ............... 63 Sous Vide Veal Tongue .................................................. .. .... . 90
Beef Short Ribs ..................................... .. ........ .............. ......... 90
CHAPTER 11: MEAT AND SEAFOOD 64 Glazed Oxtail ................. ........................... ... .......................... 90
Best Bets for Tartares ...................................................... ..... . 64 How to Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results ..... 91
Hanger Steak Tartare ....................................... ..................... 65 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal Breast
Beef and Oyster Tartare ..................... ...... ........................ ..... 65 with Bulbous Vegetables ........ .. ............ ... ............... .. ............. 91
Scallop Tartare ........ ... ... ........... ........................................ .... .. 66 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas .. ................................................. 92
Salmon Tartare Cornets ..... ............ ...................................... 67 Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and Ginger ................. 92
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide .............. ... 68 How to Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast ...... .... ....................... 93
Rack of Lamb ....... ......... ... ..... .. ... ........................... ... .............. 68 Ultra crisp Chicken Crown .... .............. ............ .. .... .... ........... 93
Pork Tenderloin withJuniper ...... ..... .. ........... ..... .................. 69 Pork Loin Roast ................... .................................................. 94
Venison Loin Rossini ........ ...................... .............................. 69 Puffed Cockscomb ................................................................ 94
Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini .... 70 Monkfish with Constructed Skin ........................................ 95
Sous Vide Rabbit Loin .......................................................... 70 Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows ...... ........................................... 95
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide ...... 71 Puffed Chicken Feet... ........... ... .. .............. ............ .... .... ......... 95
Best Bets for Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide .. 71 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide ................... 96
Poulet au Feu d' Enfer.. .......................................................... 72 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide ..... 96
Pigeon with Shellfish Butter ......................... ...................... . 72 Sous Vide Foie Gras .......... .... .......................................... ...... 96
Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts ... 73 Ankimo Torchon ......................... ............ .. ......... ... ...... ...... ... . 97
Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide .................... ..... ........ 74 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake ........ 97
\/f'\IIIUC t. . 1{ IT f)..ll=N MANIIAI



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Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart ............. ... ..... .. .... ..... 98 Saucisson Sec ............... ... ............................ ................... .... .. 134
Sous Vide Pigeon Offal ........................ .. .............................. . 98 Fermented Shrimp Sheets ....................................... ........... 134
Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea Lettuce .... ........ 99 Fast-Cured Pepperoni ......................................................... 135
Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads ................................................. 99 Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage ...................................................... 136
Crispy Sweetbreads ...................... .. ........ .. ................ .. ......... 100 Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel ................................. ... .. . 136
Best Bets for Brines .. .............................. .. .. .. ............. .... ... ... 101 Low-Fat Chicken Sausage .......................... ................ ..... .... 136
Best Bets for Wet Cures .... .. ....................... .... ........... .... ...... 102 Rare Beef Sausage ....................... .... .. ............................... .... 137
Best Bets for Dry Rubs ......................... ........ ...................... . 102 Fried Chicken Sausage .............................. ............ ........ ...... 137
Best Bets for Brining .................... ... .... ................................ 103
Best Bets for Cur ing ...... ......... ........................ ........... .......... 103 CHAPTER 12: PLANT FOODS 138
Foie Gras Torchon .................... ....... ....................... ............. 104 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender. .... 138
Foie Gras Parfait .................... ... ....................... ......... .. .. ....... 104 SOllS Vide Baby Beet Salad ................................. .. .... .. ........ 138
Bacon Chip ............... .. ..................... ....... .............................. 10 4 SOllS Vide Glazed Pearl Onion ......................... ........ .... ...... 138
Shaved Foie Gras .................. .. ....... .. .................................... 105 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide
Duck Leg Confit wi th Pommes Sariadaises ........... .. ......... 105 Until Tender .. .. ................................... ............ .... .................. 139
Confit Cure Mix ........................................... .... ................... 106 Sous Vide Turnip ..... ............. .. .. ......... ........................... .. ..... 139
Miso-Cured Black Cod .............. ... ........ ... ...... ... .................. 106 Glazed White Carrot ... ...... ................. ....................... .... ...... 139
GrapefrUit-Cured Salmon ................ ........................ ... ... ..... 107 Braised Turnips with Saffron ............. ..... ... ....... .. ...... .......... 140
House-Cured Bacon ........... ................. .......................... ... ... 107 Glazed Pearl Onion ... ......................... .. ... .. ................. ......... 140
Microwaved Beef J erky ..... ..... .. .. .......... .. ................... .. ....... . 108 Potato Salad ... ... ........... .............. ........ .......... ........................ 140
Crispy Beef Strands ...... .. ................................. .. .................. 108 Fresh Bean Salad .......... .................................... .... ...... .......... 141
Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad ................ ........... ......... ........ 108 Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion ............................ .... ...... 141
Juniper Brine ............................................... ... ..... ....... ..... ..... 109 Carrot and Dill Fricassee ............................ ..... ..... .. .... ... ..... 141
Sous Vide Duck Ham ............. ......... .. .... .............................. 109 Sous Vide Lentils .......... ..... .......... .. ........... ... ...... .......... .... ... . 142
Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache ............. ...... .. .. .... ... ........ 109 Sous Vide Green Asparagus ............... ...................... .......... 142
Fluke Cured in Kombu ................... ............. ...... ................. 110 Sous Vide Artichoke .. ...... .................... ........................... ... .. 142
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham .................................. . 110 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat
Cured Beef Tenderloin "Bresaola Style" ............... ............ 111 Until Tender ..... ............... .................... ....................... .. ........ 143
Sea Urchin Bottarga ..... ................. .... .. .. ................ .. ............ 111 Chestnut Confit ..... .... ........................ .... .............................. 143
Salted Halibut ........................ ................. ................. .. .. ..... ... 112 Salsify Fondant ......................... ... .................... ............. .... ... 143
Halibut Brandade .......................... ......... .... ... ..... .. ............... 112 Sweet Potato Fondant .. .... .. ..................... .. ......... .... ............. 144
Seafood Paper .. ....... .. .............................. ............. ................ 113 Lobster Mushroom Confit .. ............................ .. ................. 144
Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and Thyme ....... 113 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide
Kalbi Flank Steak .......................... .. .................................... 114 for Purees .. .. ... ............... ........ ..... ...................... .. ................ ... 144
Lutefisk ...... .... ....... .. .......................................... .................... 114 Salted Ca ramel Apple Puree .. ......... .. .............. .... .... .... ....... 145
Yakitori .............. ........................................... .. .. .. .................. 115 Tamarind Paste .......... .. .. ......... ............................................. 145
Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade ............. .. ..... .. ......... 116 Date Puree ............................ .. .. .... ............................. ...... ..... 145
Fluke Ceviche ...................................... .. ..................... .. ....... 117 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup
Chicken Tikka Masala ................... ............. .... ............. .... ... 118 Until Tender .... ..... ............ .................................................... 146
Gong Bao Chicken ..................... .. ........................................ 119 Pink Grapefruit Confit ........................ .. ............. ... ..... .. ... ... 146
BeetJuice-Fed Oysters ....... ................................ ................ 119 Best Bets for Warming Vegetables Sous Vide ................... 147
Best Bets for Smoking Meats ........ .................... .. ..... .. ......... 120 Red Wine Cabbage ............................. ................................. 147
Russian Smoked Salmon ............. .. ...................................... 121 Best Bets for Potato Purees ..................... .. ............... .... ...... 148
Beef Cheek Pastrami .................... ........ .. .. ..... .... .......... ........ 121 Potato Puree ........ ....... .. ............................ ...... .. .................... 148
Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown ... ...... ....................... ...... ....... 122 Best Bets for Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods .......... .. ....... 149
Smoked Pork Cheek ................... ........ ............................. .... 122 Baked Beans ........ ........... .................... ............................ .. .... 149
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon .. ....... .................... ......... ........ ... 122 Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans ............ .. ................. .. ... .... 149
Smoked Octopus ...... .. ................. ............... ...... ..... ... .. .......... 123 Caramelized Carrot Soup .... ........... ..... .......... ........ ............. 150
Best Bets for Burgers ........................................................... 123 Autoclaved Onion Soup ... ...... ... ................... .. ..................... 150
Best Bets for Coarse-Ground Sausages ............................. 124 Potato Puree ....... ................................. ................................. 151
Farce Royale ............ .. ........... .. ..... ......... ................................ 126 Crispy Boiled Peanuts ................................... .................. .. .. 151
Toulousain Garlic Sausage ................. ................................ 126 Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds .. ....................... .. ............. 151
Green Garlic and Pork Sausage ................. .. ....................... 127 Best Bets for Risotto .......... .... .. ...... ....... ............. ............ ..... 152
Best Bets for Emulsion-Style Sausages ............ ........... ....... 128 Steamed Sticky Rice .......................... .................................. 152
Italian Sausage .................................. .. ......... ...... .................. 130 Risotto Milanese ........ ....... .. .... .. .. ..... ....... .... ........................ 153
Frankfurter ......... ......... ... ............ ........ ..... .......... ................... 130 Paella Rice ............................................................................ 153
Boudin Blanc ............................ ..... ......... ....................... ....... 1 31 Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto ....................................... 154
Best Bets for Fermented Sausages ......... .... ........................ 132 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto ................................. 154
MODERNIST CUISINE
vii


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Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash ......... .. ................ .. 155 Green Papaya Pickle ...... .... ... ...... .. ...... .. ...... .............. ..... ...... 180
Ragout of Gra ins ...... ... ... .... ...... .................. ..... ... ........ .......... 156 Pickled Butternut Squash .............. ........... .......................... 180
Root Vegetable Risotto ..................... ............................. .. .. . 156 Crispy Dosa ............. .. ..... ..... ................ ...... .. .... ... ... .... ... ... ..... 181
Best Bets for Microwaving Vegetables .............................. 157 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade ........ ....... .... .... ...... ...... .. .... 181
Microwave-Fried Parsley ......... ... ..... ... .............. .. ................ 157 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit ... ......... ..... .... ........... ...... 182
Tomato Powder ........ .... .............. .... .. ............ ...... ....... ........... 157 Best Bets for Preservation ............ ...... ...... ........ .... ............ .. 182
Artichoke and Potato Chaat.. ............................................. 158 Best Bets for Heat-Treated Fruit ...................... ..... ...... ....... 183
Sichuan Bok Choy ............................................................... 158 Best Bets for Smoked Plant Foods ...... ................. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 183
Best Bets for Naked Frying ..................... .. ............ .. .. ......... 159 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune Sabayon .. ...................... 184
Toasted Garlic Chips ......... ......... ..... ... ........ .. ..... ....... ...... ..... l 59 Smoked Potato Confit ...................... .............. ..................... 184
Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts ....... .... .. ....... ... ..... ... ............... 1S9 Best Bets for Dehydration .... .. ...... .................. .. ............ ..... .. 18S
Pommes Pont-Neuf .............. ...... .... .... ..... .. ....... ....... ............ 160 Garlic Nougatine ............ ......... .... ..... ...... .... .... ........ ............. 185
Pectinase-Steeped Fries ..... .. .. .... ..... ... ... .. ...... .. .... ... .. ... .. ... .. . 160 Formulas for Dehydrating Produce ................. .. ................ 186
Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns ............................................... 160 Green Pea Wafer .......... .... ............ .... .................... ............ .... 186
Starch-Infused Fries .. ..... .......... ......... ... ....... ...... .. .... ........ .... 1 61 Crystallized Rose Petals ......................... .......... .. ................ 187
Ultrasonic Fries ....................... ....... .... ... .. ...... ......... ........... .. 161 Spinach Paper .. ... .. ... ...... ............................ .. ...... ... ......... ..... .. 187
Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries ........................................ 161 Mandarin Leather ....... .... ..... .... ... .............. .. .. ....... ................ 18 7
Best Bets for Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips .. .. ............. 162 Pineapple Glass .. .. ...... .............. ............................................ 187
Watermelon Chips ...... ...... ........ ....... .... ................. ........... .... 162 Best Bets for Freeze-Drying Plant Foods ......................... 188
Restructured Potato Chips ........ .. ................... .. .................. 162 Onion Sable .......... ............ .. ........................... ... .......... ........ .. 188
Bes t Bets for Batters .... ... ..... ..... .. .. .. .... .......... .. ........ ... ...... ... . 163 Seared Strawberry ... ... ....... .. .. ..... .... .. .. ................................. 189
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura Caesar Sal ad ......................................................................... 189
with Smoked White Soy Sauce .... .... ....... ... ...... .. ............ .... . 164 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder .. .. .............. ... ... ... ..... .... .......... 189
Fried Pickles ................. ... .. ... .... .. ............... .. ... .... ...... .......... .. 164 Shrimp and Grits ...... .................... ...... .... .. ......... ..... ..... ........ 190
Crispy Halibut Cheek ............................................ .. ........... 165 Best Bets for Pasta Doughs ...... .... ...... .......... .. ... ..... .......... ... 191
The Colonel's Fried Chicken ......................... .. .................. 165 Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil ............. ........ .......... ...... .. ......... 191
Modernist Fried Chicken ....................... ... ..... .. .... ..... ...... ... 166 Spaghetti Carbonara .... ......................... ..... .... ... .... .... .......... 192
Oyster Beignet ..... ... ... ..... ... ....... .. ... ... .. .. .... .... ................. ..... . 166 Mac and Cheese ..... .. .............. .................. .. ................ .......... 19 2
Breading .................... ..... .............. ..... ..... .......... ..... ....... ........ 167 Pad Thai ................. .................. ..... ....................................... 193
Crispy Okra ................. ...... .. .. .. .. ............. ....... ...... ......... .. ... ... 167 Pasta Marinara .... ..... .. ...... .. ... ... .. .... ........ ...... ........................ 193
Cromesquis .......... .. : ..... ... ....... ... .. .. ...... .... ... .... .... .. ..... ..... ...... 168 Cocoa Tajarin ........................ ... ..... ..... ........ ........ ..... ............. 194
Fried Green Tomatoes ........ ... ........ .. ................ ... .. ... ....... .... 168 Ramen Noodles ............ .... .... ... .. .... ....................... ............... 194
Corn Croquetta ... ....... ... ... ... ..... ........ ...... ... ..... .... ........ ........ . 169 Buckwheat Dough ... ..... ..... .................... ............................. . 194
Pork Trotter Beignet ... .... ........ ..... .... ... ... .. .. ............ ... .......... 169 Semolina Pasta ...... .............. ..... ............ ............. ... ... ...... ....... 195
Onion Rings .. ... .. .... ...... ..... ... ... .. .. ... ........... .. ...... ....... ............ 170 Best Bets for Compressing or Impregnating Produce ..... 195
Razor Clam "Takoyaki " ...... ........... ......... ... ... .... ..... ............. 171 Smoked Lettuce .. ....... .. ........... .... .............. ............ ........ ... .... 195
Crispy Corn Pudding ..... ... ...... .. ....... ... .. ..... ...... .. ................. 172 Curry-Impregnated Apple ............. .... .... ..... .. ....... .. .... ..... .... 196
Salting, Pickling, and Fermenting ..................................... 173 Compressed Muscat Grapes ............................................... 196
Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil.. ..... .. ....... ..... ...................... 173 Compressed Melon Terrine ..... .... ..... ... ....... ...... .... ... .......... . 196
Preserved Lemons .......................... ......... ... ... ...................... 174 Watermelon Meat ...................... ..... ...................... ...... .. ..... .. 197
Pickled Garlic ................... ...... .... .. ... ... ............. ......... ............ 174 Vegetable Coals ........... .................. ....................................... 197
Pickled Tapioca PearI.. ................................................... .. .. . 174 Pulled Mushroom ... ... .... ... .... .... .... ........ ............... ........ .. ...... 197
Kimchi ............................ ....... ....... ... .... ................ ....... .......... 175 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto ........ .. ............... ... .. .... .. ..... 198
Watermelon Rind Kimchi .............................................. ..... 175 Frozen White "Truffle" ....................................... .. ....... ...... 198
Nukazuke ... ............. ...... ........... ........ ............... .......... ............ 175 Clay Potatoes ......... ...... ......... ..... .. .. .. .... ...... ...... ..... .. ....... ... .. . 199
Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles ........... ...... .. ......... ..... .. .. ...... .. 176 Fossilized Salsify Branch ...... .. ........ .... ...... .. .... .. ............ ...... 199
Garlic Confit ........................................................................ 176
Aromatic Alsatian Mustard .......... .......... ...... .. ............ .... .... 176 CHAPTER 13: THI CKENERS 200
Sauerkraut .......... ..... ....... .............. .. .... .. ....... ..... .................... 177
Best Bet s for Thickening with Natural Starch .. .. ............ 200
Braised Sauerkraut .. ........ ............ ... .... .............. ....... ....... ..... 177
Pregelatinized Starch Paste ........ ...... ....................... .... ...... 200
Pickled Figs ..... .. ....... .................... ..................... ....... ... ......... 177
Best Bet s for Thickening with Modified Starch .............. 201
Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables .......... ... ................... 178
Avocado Puree ................................ ...... ......................... .. .... 201
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes ................ .... ...... ....... .. ........ . 178
Modernist Bechamel ...... ..... ................................................ 202
Pickled Ramps .................................................. ... .. ..... .. ... .... 178
Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding ............................................ 202
Pickled Lemon ..... ..... ........ ... ........ ..... .......... ....... ...... ... ... ..... . 179
Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute ...................... .. ......... 203
Pickled Celery Root ...... ........ ...... ....... .. .... .. ................ .. ....... 179
Smoked Pepper Puree ........ .... .... .. ............. .. ......... .. ............. 203
Tomato Con fit ..................................................................... 179
Caramelized Creme Fraiche ....... .......... .............. .. .... ..... .. ... 203
.Pickled Bing Cherry ....................... ....... ..... .................. ....... 180
Pomegranate and GarumJus ...... .......................... ... .. ..... ... 204
VO LU ME 6 . KITCHE N MANUAL
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TurkeyWing .... ... ................ ............. .... ..... ...................... .... . 204 Toasted Almond Milk ........ .... ....... .... ..... ........ .. ........ .. .. ....... 228
Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy ............................................. 204 Horchata (Chufa Milk) .............. .. ...... ..... ... .. ............. .......... 228
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes ................ .. ............... 205 Lemon Strips .. .. .. ...... ............... ............................................. 228
Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta Dumpling .................. .. ....... .. . 205 Best Bets for Edible Films ................. .. ............................... 229
Marcona Almond Butter Paste .......................................... . 205 Crispy Cream Cheese ... ..... ............................................. ..... 229
Malt Vinegar Powder .................... ..................................... 206 Spiced Honey Glass ........ ..................... ... ............................. 230
Bacon Powder Squares ............................. ..... ............ ......... 206 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine ............................ 230
Parmesan Nuggets ............... ... .......... ............ .. ..... .. ............. 206 Edible Wrappers ............. .......... ... ........... .... .............. .. .. ....... 230
Spiced Ash .... ... ...... .......................................... ...... ............. . 206 Onion Arlette ................ ....... ........................ ...... .. ............. ... 231
Vanilla Olive Oil Powder ............... .. .................................. 207 BBQCaramels ......... ...... .. ............ ... ... .... ......... ........... .......... 231
Cashew Halvah ......... ................ .. ..... .. ....... .... ...................... 207
Almond Polenta ... .. ... .......................................................... 207 CHAPTER 14: GELS 232
Edible Earth ...... ....................................... .. .......... ................ 208 Best Bets for Cooking Whole Eggs ............ .. ....... .. ............. 232
Corn Pebbles ...... ............... .... .... ... ................. .. .. .................. 209 Liquid Center Duck Egg ..................................................... 232
Best Bets for Thickening Hot Liquids ............... .... ........... 210 Egg Blossom ...... ................................... ...... .... .... ....... ..... ...... 232
Best Bets for Thickening Cold Liquids ............................ . 211 Deviled Eggs ..... ... ............. .......... .... ... ..... ............................. 233
Ham Consomme with Melon Beads .. .. .............................. 211 Custard Textures ...... ................... .................................... .... 233
Tomato Whey Broth .. ..................... .............. .. ............ .... .... . 212 Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs ........................ 234
Truffle Jus ...................... .................... ...... ................ ..... ....... 212 Century Egg ............ ..... ..... ... ...... .......... ......... ................... ... 234
Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti ....................................... 212 Pickled Quail Eggs ...... ...................... ......... .. ....... .. ............. 234
Olive Oil Spread .................................................. .. .. .... ........ 213 Best Bets for Separated Egg Gels .. ......... ............ ...... .......... 235
White Grape Syrup .... ........................... ... ........ .................... 213 Cauliflower Creme Anglaise .. .. ...... .... ................................ 235
XO Sauce .................... ..................... ...... ... ........ ............. ... .... 213 Eggs Benedict .............................................. ...... ... ... .. .. ..... .... 236
Caramelized Coconut Cream ............................................. 214 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets ...................................................... 236
Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry Marinara ..... 214 Parmesan Creme Bnilee ..................................................... 237
Creamed Spinach ................................................ ............... .. 215 Sauce Allemande .... ............... ... .. ................. .. ...... ... ... .... .. .... 237
Warm Potato and Pistachio Pes to Salad .................. .. ....... 215 Egg Salad Sandwich ................................... .. ....... ........ ........ 238
Aged Rare Beef Jus ................................................. .. ... ........ 216 Best Bets for Blended Egg Gels ...................... .... .... ............ 239
Shiitake Marmalade ......................... ........... ............. ....... .... 216 Boudin Noir Custard ......... ............................... .. ...... ....... .... 239
Maple Vinegar Gastrique ..... ...... ... .............. ...... ..... .......... ... 216 French Scrambled Eggs ...................................................... 240
Mushroom Ketchup ............................................................ 217 Ham and Cheese Omelet.. .......... .. ...................... ............... 240
Apricot and Jasmine Puree ............ .. .......... ......................... 217 Asparagus Royale ...... ...... ............................... .... .... .. ......... .. 241
Seaweed Tapenade ............. .................. .. ............. ......... ........ 218 Dashimaki Tamago .... ......................................................... 241
Tamarind Puree ..... .. ... ..... .............. ........ ...... .. ...... .... ... ......... 218 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast ............................................... 241
South Carolina Barbecue Sauce .................. .. ................. .. .. 219 Chawanmushi .......... ....... ..... ........ ........... .... .. ...... ..... ....... ..... 242
Kentucky Barbecue Sauce ........................... .. ..................... 219 Boudin Noir Bread Pudding ............. .................................. 242
North Carolina (Lexington-Style) Chorizo French Toast ... ................... .... ......... ..... ............ ..... 243
Barbecue Sauce ....... ....... .......... ..... ............ .. ........ ................. 219 Olive Marmalade ..... .......... ...................................... ............ 243
House Barbecue Sauce ...... ... ......... .... .. .......... ......... ..... .... .... 220 Omelet Base ......................................................... ...... .... ...... 243
Kansas City Barbecue Sauce ................... ........... ..... .... ....... 220 Best Bets for Smoking Dairy and Eggs ........... .. ........ ........ 244
Memphis Barbecue Sauce ...... .......... ................................... 221 Smoked Egg Creme CarameL .......................................... 244
North Carolina (Eastern Region) Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar ................... ........ 244
Barbecue Sauce .................................. ........................... ....... 221 Best Bets for Protein Curds .......... .......... ......................... ... 245
East Texas Barbecue Sauce ................................................. 221 Cocoa Nib Curd .................................................................. 246
Mughal Curry Sauce ................ ......................... .. .... ... ..... ..... 222 Goat Cheese Dumplings ........... .. ........... .. .......................... 246
Pea Vine Salad ................ .................... .. ............. ................... 222 Silken Tofu .... .................... ...... ........... ... ........................ ...... 246
Muslim Curry Sauce .. ......... ................................................. 223 Fresh Cheese Curds .................... ..... ........................... .. ..... .. 247
Green Mango and Cashew Salad ....................................... 223 Modernist Burrata ................ ... ................... ... ..................... . 247
Goan Curry Sauce .............................................................. 224 Goat Milk Ricotta ........ ........... ................ .. .. .... ................ .... 248
Kerala Curry Sauce .... ...... ...................................... ............. 224 Firm Tofu ..... ............... .... ... ................. ... ........... .................. 248
Masala Curry Sauce ........... ................ .. ........... ... .. ................ 225 Mozzarella Balloons .... ............ ...... ... ...... .................. ....... ... 249
Red-Eye Gravy ................ .. .............................. .......... ........... 225 Green Pea yuba ................................................................... 249
Best Bets for Making Milks and Creams ............ .. ............ 226 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle Puree ........... 250
Low-Fat "Cream" .............. .. .. .......... ........ ......... ...... ....... ....... 226 Best Bets for Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) ... 252
Instant Creme Fraiche .. ..... ....... .. ...... ........................... ....... 227 Sour Cream Spaetzle .. ..... .......................................... .......... 252
Herbed Cheese Spread .......... ........... ........ ...... ..................... 227 Salmon Custard .................... .......................... ... ...... ............ 253
Soy Milk .......................................................... ... ........ .... .. 227 Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon Dashi .............. 254
Toasted Rice Milk ........ ....................... .... .................... ........ 228 Flourless Gnocchi ... ...................... ................. ... ....... ........ .... 254
MOD ERNIST CUISINE
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Deep-Fried Custard ......... .. .. ...... .. ....... ..... ... ... ...... .............. .. 255 Confit Egg Yolk Puree ...... .. ................. ... .. .. ... .......... ............ 288
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa ............... .... .. .. ................... 255 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel .. .. .... ............... .. ........... ... ....... 289
Corn Bread ....................... .... ... .... .... ............... ....... ......... ...... 256 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel ... ........ .... ............ ..................... ......... 289
Corn Custard ........................ .. ....... ...................................... 256 Best Bets for Spherification ....................................... ......... 290
Peanut "Tofu" ..... ...................................................... ............ 257 Carbonated Mojito Spheres .. ............ .............. .................. .. 291
Idiazabal Gnocchi .. ... .... ..... ................ .............. ............. .... .. . 258 Melon Caviar ........................................................................ 291
Everything Bagel Broth .......... ........ ............... ................... .. 258 "Poached" Egg ............... ........ .. ................................... ......... 292
Dill Spheres .......... ................... ............................................. 259 Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil... ............ .... ........ ................ 292
Squid Ink Fluid Gel ......... .. ................................................. . 259 Gruyere Spheres ........ ....................................... .................... 293
Best Bets for Cold Gels ............................... .. .. .. ................. 260 Caper Droplets .................. ....... ............................................ 293
Salt Gel ... .............................................................................. 261 Mussels in MusselJuice Spheres .. .. .................................... 294
Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto ....................................... 262 Liquid Pimento Olive .... .. ... ...... ................ .... .................. ..... 294
Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot ........................................... 262 Prosciutto and Melon "Raw Egg" ........... .. ......................... 295
Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel ............................... ...... ........... 262
Cauliflower Panna Cotta ........... ........ ............ ..... ........... ..... 263
CHAPTER 15: EMULSIONS 296
Knot Foie ........................... .. ................................................ 264
Ultras table Beurre Blanc ........ ................. .... ..... .... .. ..... ....... 296
Madeira Gelee ..... ...... ..................... ............. ........................ 264
Poached Lobster ................ ... ........... ... .. ..... ...... .. .. ...... .......... 296
Chili Pearls ............................... ............................................ 265
Beet Flexicurd ........ ... .......... ................................. ............. .. . 296
Guinness "Pate de Fruit" .................................. .. ..... .. ........ . 265
Sea Urchin Butter ..... ........................................................... 297
Olive Oil Noodles ........... ............... ... .... ...... .. .. .................... 266
Oyster Butter Emulsion ...... .. ... ... ... .. .. ... .... ........... .. ......... ... . 297
Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame, Ponzu ..... ........... 266
Black Butter Emulsion ......................... .......... ........... ...... .... 297
Olive Oi l GummyWorms .... .. ........... ... .................. ... ......... . 267
Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter .. .... .... ...... .. .. 298
Sherry Gel Cube ............ ............... ... ................... ........ ......... 267
Blood Pudding Custard ........ ......... .... .... .. ........................... 298
Sunny-Side Up "Eggs" ........................................................ 268
Best Bets for Constructed Cheeses ........ ....... .. .......... .. ...... 299
Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels ........................................ 269
Constructed Veal Cream ................................................... 300
Foie Gras Parfait Spheres .................................................... 270
The American Cheese Slice .............................................. 300
Halibut Cheek Gel Base ...................................................... 270
Cheese in a Tube ........ ......................................................... 300
Foie Gras Cherries ........ ....... ............................... ........ ...... ... 270
Cheesy Whip ................ ....... ..... ... ...... ................................... 301
Crimini in Amber .............. ..... ... .... .. .................................... 271
Cheddar Soup ............. ......................................................... 301
Salmon Poached in Licorice .................... ............ .............. . 272
Remoulade Sauce .... .... .... ... .................... ................. .. ........... 302
Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze .......... . 272
White Coleslaw ................... ........ .. .. ... .... ..... ...... ................... 302
Halibut in Verbena Bubble .......... .. ............. ........ ............ .. .. 273
Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce ......................................... ..... ...... . 303
Best Bets for Hot Gels .. ........ ......... .................... ...... ............ 274
Basic Mayonnaise ..... .... ...... ............ .......... ........................... 303
Agar Carbonara ...... ........... ......... ..... .. ... ...... .. ...... .............. ... 275
Hot Egg Mayonnaise ... .... ....... ....... ..... ........... .. .......... ......... . 303
Gruyere Custard ......... .............. .... ... .. .. ......... .. ....... ........ ...... 275
Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion ............................... 304
Shellfish Custard ...................... ........................................... 276
Sous Vide Lemon Curd ..................................... .. ............... 304
Bone Marrow Custard .................... ...... __ ....... ......... ......... ... 276
BaconJam .................... .. .......... .. ..... .. ...... .. ........ ... ........ ... ..... 304
Boeuf en Gelee ... .......... ........................................................ 277
Deep-Fried Hollandaise ...................... .... .. ............. ... ....... .. 305
Fruit and Vegetable Acidities ......... .. .... .................... .......... 278
Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise ........................................... 305
Best Bets for Hot Fruit Gels .......... ............... ...................... 279
Black Olive Puree .............. ................ .. ....... ............... ..... ..... 306
Hot Orange Gel .............. .. ........ ....... ....... .. ..... .. ....... ........... .. 279
Thickened Oil ..... ............................ .. ........ .. ............... .......... 306
Hot Banana Gel ..................... ................................ ............ . 280
Invincible Vinaigrette ........................................ ... .. .......... .. 306
Hot Green Apple Gel... .... .. ...... ....... : .... .............. ....... .......... 280
Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage ........ .. .................. ......... 307
Hot Quince Gel.. ..... ............ ..... ... .. ..... ..................... ......... ... 280
Eggless Citrus Curd .... ..... ...... ...... ..... ... .. ... .......................... 307
Quinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito Stock Veil .. ...... ... .. ..... 281
Mustard Vinaigrette ............... ......... ... ..... .... .. ....... .. ... .. ........ 308
Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade ................................. 281
Sauce VinJaune ....... .. ............ ...... .... .. ...... .................. .......... 308
Best Bets for Methylcellulose Gels ................................. ... 282
Eggless Mayonnaise .. .... ..... .................... .... ...... ..... .......... .... 309
Properties and Applications of Cellulose Gums .. ............ 282
Spice Mix Emulsion ......................................................... .... 309
Instant Tofu Noodles .. ... ............................ ........... ........ ...... 283
Olive Oil "Margarine" ...... ....................... ............. ............... 309
Potato Beignets with Caviar.. ...... .. ........... ....... ......... .......... 283
Pistachio Gelato ............... .......... ... .......... ............. ... ............ 310
Sweet Pea Clusters ........ ....... ... ...................................... ...... 284
Hazelnut "Cream" .......................................................... ... .. 310
Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin .................................... 284
Jus Gras .............................................................. ................... 310
Best Bets for Fluid Gels ...................... .. .............................. 285
Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup ..................... ................. ..... 311
Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel... .............. .. .... ........ 286
Ginger Cola .... .. ........... .. ..... .............................. .................... 311
Hot and Cold Tea ..................... ........................................ .... 286
Passion Fruit Jelly .... .......................... ............................. .. ... 287
CHAPTER 16: FOAMS 312
Popcorn Pudding ...................................... ..... .. .................... 287
Best Bets for Airs, Bubbles, and Froths ...... .... .. ..... ..... ....... 312
Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel .... ...... .. .. ...... .... ... .. .. ................. . 287
Citrus Air ........................ ..... ...... ..................... .. ......... ..... ... .. . 312
Parmesan "Polenta" ... .. ............... ..... ........ .. ...... .. .... ......... .. ... 288
Onion Fluid Gel .... ..... .......... .. ......................................... ..... 288
Oysters with Mignonette Air ............................................. 313
Parsley Foam ................... .... ........................... .... ... .. ... ......... . 313
vnlliMF 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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Kanpachi Sashimi wit h Citrus Foam ........ ... .......... ....... .... 313
Pommes Soufflees .............. ..... .................. ... .. ....... ... ... .... ... . 342
Geoduck with Seawater Foam ... .... ....... ... .... ........ ... ... .... ..... 314
Tapioca Starch Cracker .............. .... ... .... ... ................ ... ........ 343
Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles .. ......... .. .... .. .... ......... 314
Black Sesame Rice Crisps ... ..... .. .... ..... ...... ..... .. ...... ..... ..... ... 343
Saffron Honey Foam .. .......... .... .. ... ................. .................. ... 314
Rice Crisp ... .. .... .............. ... ......... ...... ........ .... ........ ....... ...... ... 343
Lychee and Lime Soda ........ ......... .... ............... ..... .. .. ... ... ..... 315 Puffed Chickpeas ....... .... ..... .. ....... ... ........ ..... .... .. .... .. ..... ..... 344
Tomato Vinegar Foam ... ............. .... ....... .............. .. ............. 315
Puffed Crab Cracker. ...... ....... ...... ........ .... ... .......... .. ......... ... 344
Cappuccino Foam ... ........ ........ ... .. ...... .. .. ....... .. ....... .............. 315 Cheese Puffs ..... ....... ............... .. ...... .. ...... ...... .... .... .............. . 344
Best Bets for Light Foams ...... .... .... ... ..... .. .... ..... ........ .......... 316 Soccarat Tuile .. ............ ..... ... ... .. ... .... .... .... ... ... .... ... .... ......... .. 345
Horchata Foam ... .......... ... .. .... ..... ... .. ....... ............. ... .... .... ..... 316 Candied Puffed Oats .... ... ...... ... .. ................... ..... .... .. ........... 345
Whipped Cheese .......................... ....... ...... ....... ..... ............... 317 Scallop Mochi ..................... .... ...... ... ....... ........ ....... .............. 345
Blood Orange Foam ... .......... ....... ....... ..... .. .. .. ... ........ ........... 317 Gremolata CriSp ... ... ..... ........... .... .......... ..... .... ..... ...... ......... 346
Milk Foam ...... ... ............ .. ...... ... .. .. ... ... ..... ..... .. ..... ..... ............ 317 Aerated Mango Sorbet ....................... .... ... .... .. ..... ... ... ...... .. . 347
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth ......... ... ............. .. ... ......... 318 Edible Prune Coals .... ..... .. ........ .................... .. ........... ... .. ... .. 347
Corn Foam ...... ........... .......... .... ...... ... ... ........ .... ........ ... .. ... ... . 318 Aerated Foie Gras ............................. ....... .. ...... .. ................. 348
Blood Orange Sabayon .... ....... .. .. .......... .... ... ........ ...... .... ...... 318 Aerated Gruyere ... .. ... .. ...... .. ......... ......... ........ ..... ... ..... ... ..... 348
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon .... ... .... ... ... .... ..... .. 319 Aerated Coffee Ice Cream ..... ... .... .... ... ... .. ... ... ... .... ... ... ....... 349
Coconut-Lobster Emulsion ...... .... ... ..... ... .......... ... ..... .. ... .. .. 319 Aerated Chocolate .... ... ............. ............ ..... .... .... .. ................ 349
Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino .. ............... .... ........... ... 320
Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam ................. .. ..... .... .... . 320
CHAPTER 18: COFFEE 350
Grapefruit and Black Pepper ... .. .... .. ..................... ...... ........ 321
Coffee Butter .... ............. .... ... ..... .. .. .... .. ... ... ........ ............... ... . 350
Best Bets for Thick, Fine-Textured Foams ... ...... .... .. ........ 322
Stable Latte Foam ..... ......... ...... ......... .. ..... .... .... ............ ........ 350
Chocolate Chantilly ..... ... ....... ........ ...... ..... ..... .. ......... ..... ..... 322
Instant Swiss Meringue ............ .......... ... ...... ..... ....... .... .... ... 323
REFERENCE TABLES 352
Eggplant Foam ..... .. ............ ....... .... .......... ..... ... .. ................... 324
Converting Temperature ... ... ......................... ....... ......... .. ... 352
Baked Potato Foam ..................... ... ........ .. ... ... ..... .. ........ ...... 324
Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients .. . 354
Hot Butter Foam ..... .............. ................... ......... .... ........ ....... 324
Converting Weights ..... ... ..... ......... .. ............................... ..... 354
Coconut Chutney Foam ....... ...... .. ..... ..... ... ... ...... ................. 325
Common Conversion Factors ........ .................. ...... ... ... ... ... 356
Suet Mousseline (Thick) .... .... .......... ........ ... ......... ...... ........ 325
Converting Volume Measures .............. ....... ............ ........... 357
Dairy-Free Whipped Cream .................. .. ...... ... ... ... ....... ..... 326
Water Content of Typical Foods ......... .. ........ .. ..... .... .... .. .. .. 358
Cauliflower Foam .............................. .. ........... .. ...... ... ......... . 326
Fat Content of Typical Foods ...... ......... .. ... ... .. ...... .......... ... . 361
Fried Egg Foam ............. ....... ... ..... ..... ... ... ... ......... ... .. .. ...... .... 326
Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods .... 362
Horseradish Foam ....... ....... ......... ... ... .... ..... ...... ... .... .. ..... ..... 327
Oysters with Cava Foam ..... .............. ..... ... ....... ...... ........... .. 327
Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel... ..... ......... ............ 327
Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca ......... .... ..... ......... ..... 328
Chestnut Cream .................. .................. ... ............. ... .... .... .... 328
Whipped Butter ................. ....... ....... ..... ............. ....... ........... 329
Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips ..... .......... ...... .. ........ 329
Best Bets for Set Foams ..... .. .. ... ...................... ... ... ... ..... ...... . 330
Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo Powder. ...... ... 332
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour .... .... .......................... ..... ..... 332
Whipped Yogurt Crisps .................... ..... .. .. .. ...... ........ ......... 333
Green Tea Cake ... ...... .......... .. .... .............. .... .. ...... .. ........ .... .. 333
Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake ..... .. .......... ... ..... ........ 333
Hot Apricot Marshmallow ... .. ...... .... ..... ...... ....... ....... ... .. ... . 334
Hamburger Bun ....... ... ....... ........... ........ ... .... ...... ..... ...... ...... . 334
Beet Meringue ... ......... ........ ...... .... ......... ..... .. ............... .. .. .... 335
Steamed Blancmange ...... .. ................ ... .... .. .... ...... .. ..... ........ 335
Chestnut Puffs .... .. .................... ... ... ..... ......... .. .............. ..... .. 336
Buttermilk Biscuits ..... ...... .. .. .......... .. ..... .. .. ... ... .. .. ........ .... ... 336
Rye Bread .. .. ............... ...... ... .... .... ........ ......... .. ... ..... ... ... .... ..... 337
Moroccan Batbout Flatbread ...... ...... .... .. ............ .. ............. 338
Siphoned Souffle it la Lorraine .. ...... ..... .. ............... .... ... ..... . 338
Green Olive Meringue ........ ... ............ ........ .... .... ........... .. .. .. 339
Soy Sauce Cloud ..... .. ....... ... .... ... ....... ....... ... ..... .................... 339
Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam .... .. .... ...... ...... ... ....................... 340
Gruyere Souffle ..... ... .... ... ...... ...... ...... .............. ........ ..... ...... 340
Zucchini Blossom Beignets ..... .... .. .. ...... ........ ....... .............. 341
Pate it Choux ... .......... .............. ..... ................. ...... ..... ....... ..... 341
Best Bets for Puffed Snacks ...... ...... .. .... .. ......... .. ..... .. .. ... ..... 342
MODERNIST CUIS I NE xi
.II
HOW TO MAKE BACON AND EGGS IN A COMBI OVEN
FOR THE BACON: FOR THE EGGS:
CD Assembl e two sheet trays and two si li cone mats for each batch
of bacon.
(3) Slice the bacon to lV2 mm / % in thick. Pa rtiall y freezing the bacon before
sli cing may make this step easier and more precise.
CD Butter several 10 cm / 4 in baking rings and place them on a very flat
baking sheet lined with a silicon mat. Alternatively, use the Rational
baking tray designed fo r cooking eggs (see page 21 66).
(3) Place one eggwhite in each buttered ring, reserving yolks.
Arrange the sli ced baco n on the trays in an even layer. Pl ace a second
si li con mat o n top of the bacon a nd top it with a second baking sheet
to hold the sli ces fl at.
Cook the egg whites in a pre heated combi oven at 79 C/ 174 OF and
90% humidity fo r15 min.
o Cook in a combi oven at 160 C / 320 OF and 0 % humidit y until the bacon
is brown and crisp, 20-30 min. If you prefer reall y dry bacon, remove the
top tray and si li con mat, reduce the heat to 79 C / 174 OF, and then
dehydrate fo r another 20-30 min. The exact cooki ng time de pends o n
the moisture content of the bacon. A sugar-based bacon cure browns
quicker and needs a lower temperat ure.
o Reduce the oven temperature to 63 C/ 145 OF. You may need to leave
the door o pen a bit to cool the oven down. Check oven temperature
(via tempe rat ure pro be o r by pressing the tempe rature-control button)
to verify that it is at the proper temperature before going on to the
CANTONESE FRIED RICE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Chicken fat, rendered, 56g
see page 3116
Shiitake mushroom, thinly BOg
sliced
Chinese sausage, thinl y sli ced
BOg
Jas mine rice, cooked BOOg
and cooled
Garlic chives, cut into BOg
5 cm / 2 in lengt hs
Scallions, white only, fin e 40g
juli enne
Red Thai chi li, seeded and 2g
cut in fin e juli enne
English peas, sh ucked and BOg
blanched (frozen peas work)
Duck egg, beaten 160g
(four eggs)
White soy sauce 32g
Dark soy sauce 24g
Mushroom soy sauce 12g
Toasted sesame oil 1. 5 g
from page 2176
SCALING
7%
10%
10%
100%
10%
5%
0.25%
next step.
Place a single egg yolk in the cente r of each egg white and cook
fo r 25 min.
@ Unmo ld the "fried" eggs a nd serve.
Yields 1.2 kg
PROCEDURE
CD Preheat oven to 245 C / 475 OF.
(3) Add fat to nonstick roasting pan, an d let heat.
Add mushrooms, fo ll owed by sausage, and oven-fry until mushrooms soften and
sausages blister, about5 min.
o Add, stir to evenly di stribute othe r ingredients into rice.
Oven-fry fo r 3 min.
@ Add, stir to distribu te evenl y, and oven-fry for about 30 s.
10% 0 Fold into rice and oven-fry for about 2 min.
Re move rice mi xture from oven, leaving heat on.
20% Make a well in the middle of the fri e d rice.
4%
3%
1. 5%
0.4%
@ Return rice mixture to 245 C / 475 OF oven to heat.
@ Add egg, and all ow to cook until just coagulated, about 1 Yz min.
@ Remove fried rice from oven.
@ Combine liq uids and stir into fr ied ri ce eve nly to season.
@ Check seasoni ng and serve.
Note that this recipe can be made in a CVap oven just as well. Be sure to
vent heat from the oven in step 4, and wait until the temperat ure stabil izes,
about5-10 min.
HOW TO ROAST A CHICKEN IN A COMBI OVEN
CD Ma ke brines. Whisk together200 gofwaterwith 16 g of salt until
d issolved to make 8% brine. Repeat with 200 g of water and 10 g of salt to
make a 5% brine. Reserve.
(3) Separate the skin from the meat. Wearing gloves, work your fingers under
the skin to detach it from the surface of the meat over the entire body of
the chicken. Be very careful not to tearthe skin.
Inj ect the breast meat with an 8% salt brine.
o Fill the syringe with brine equal to 10% of the weight of the bird. For a 1 kg
bird, for example, use 100 g of brine.
Ha ng the chicken by its legs in the refrigerator for 48 h. The brine will
diffuse fully, and the skin will dry out. Just before cooking, inject the
breast again, this time with the 5% salt brine. Use an amount of brine
equal to 5% of the weight of the bird.
Cook at 64 C/ 147 OF and 0% humidity un til the core temperature of the
breast meat is 60 C/ 140 of, about 4 h. Cook the bird hanging in the oven
above a drip tray.
o Remove from the oven, and hang at room temperature for 45 min. Resting
will help the meat retain its juices when it is cut (for details, see page 384).
Brush chicke n evenly with clarified butter or neutral frying oil.
Cook at 296 C / 565 OF and 0 % humidity until the skin is brown and crisp,
about7 min.
@ As an alternative to air-drying in a refrigerator for three days, put the
chicken in a blast chi ll er for 2-4 h on the chi ll (not freeze) setting. The
air-drying step can also be omitted-the first cooking step may take a bit
longer, and the skin will not be quite as crispy, but it wi ll still be much
crispierthan when roasted conve nti onall y.
@ Holding the core tempe rature ofthe bird at 55- 60 C/ 130-140 OF for
about 2 h effectively pasteurizes the meat. For more on pasteurization
times for poultry, see page 1181.
COMBI OVEN ROAST CHICKEN Yi e lds 650 g
INGREDIENT
Whole chicken
Water
Salt
Water
Salt
Fryi ng oi l or clarified unsalted butter
from page 2178
PROGRAM
STAGE TEMPERATURE HUMIDITY
1
2 62 C/ 144 F 0%
3
4 300 C / 575 OF 0%
QUANTITY SCALING
2.0 kg 100%
200g 10%
16 g 0.8%
200g 10%
10 9 0.5%
as neede d
COMMAND
CD Preheat oven to 62 C / 144 OF
(3) Roast to core temperature
of60 C/ 140 of, about3 h.
Remove chi cke n, and let rest 45 min.
o Brush chicken with oil.
When oven has reached temperature,
place chi cken in oven, and sear for 7 min.
COOKING IN MODERN OVENS
/
-'
COMBI OVEN RIB EYE Yields 900 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beef rib eye, bone in
Unsalted butter, melted
Salt
from page 2180
PROGRAM
900g
as needed
to taste
100% CD Brush rib eye with butter.
(3) Place meat on perforated rack,
and begin program.
After stage 5, brush with more butter.
This cooking program uses 25 min
STAGE TEMP HUMIDITY COMMAND
of dryi ng to prepare the surface for
searing. During the drying steps, t he
temperature is increased, butthe
humidity is decreased so that the
wet-bulb temperature does not exceed
the cooking temperature. The tempera-
ture is increased in stages to give the oven
time to get rid of the extra humidity.
55 ' C/ l3l ' F 100%
2 55'C/ 131 ' F 100%
3 55 'C / 131 'F 0%
4 58 'C/ 136 ' F 0%
5 61 ' C/ 142 ' F 0%
6
7 300 ' C/ 575 ' F 0%
8 300 ' C / 575 ' F 0%
STAGE RARE
51 ' C/ 124 OF with 100% humidity
to core of 50 ' C / 122 ' F
o Preheat the oven to 54 ' C / 131 ' F in steam mode
Steam until core temperature reaches 54 C / 129 ' F, aboutl h.
The temperatures at left are for what we
judge to be a medium-rare steak. The
temperatures can be adjusted for other
levels of done ness by using the table
below.
Dry for 5 min.
(!) Dry for 5 min.
Dryfor15 min.
Remove steak from oven.
@ Preheat oven unt il it reaches temperature, about 10 min.
@ Sear for 2 min.
@ Turn and sear another 2 min.
MEDIUM RARE
55 ' C / 131 ' F with 100% humidi ty
to core of 54 C / 129 OF
MEDIUM
60 ' C / 140 OF with 100% humidity
to core of 5B ' C / 136 OF
2 51 ' C/ 124 ' F with 0% humidity for 5 min 55 ' C / 131 ' F with 0% humidity for 5 min 60 ' C / 140 ' F with 0% humidity for 5 min
3 53 ' C / 127 ' F with 0% humidity for 5 min 58 ' C / 136 ' F with 0% humidity for 5 min 63 ' C / 145 ' F with 0% humidity for 5 min
4 56 ' C/ 133 ' F with 0% humidity for15 min 61 ' C / 142 OF with 0% humidity for15 min 66 ' C/ 151 ' Fwith 0% humidityfor15 min
ROAST PIGEON CROWN
INGREDIENT
Pigeon crown
Farce royale
see page 126
Activa RM orGS
Duck fat
Salt
QUANTITY
600g
200g
as needed
as needed
to taste
Toasted oat jus, warmed 200 g
see page 38
from page 5132
YieldsBOOg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Remove skin in one piece, making sure to remove skin around arm and shoulder.
(3) Cut out shape from sti ll-cold skin to fit over crown, using actual crown as template.
27%
27%
Dust farce sheet with Activa, and place over crown.
o Pull skin over crown.
Wrap crown ti ghtly in plastic wrap, and vacuum seal.
Place on small baking sheet in vacuum machine, and pull fu ll vacuum to coll apse any residual
air pockets.
(!) Refrigerate for 6 h to all ow enzyme to bind proteins.
Sear prepared pigeon crown in dry, hot nonstick pan, rotating and applying pressure to brown
evenly, about5 min.
Brush with duck fat, and season with salt.
@ Bake in 65 ' C/ 150 ' F oven for 40 min.
@ Carve breasts off crown, and cut into sli ces 1 cm / Yo in thick.
@ Serve with jus.
-
--
-
--
-
-
-
-
.....
-
'"'"
-..,.
-
-
-

-
.......
-
1!\
-
.......
-
-
,..,
-,..,
-
COMBI OVEN-STEAMED BROCCOLI
Yields 1.5 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Rice vinegar 100 g
Sherry vinegar 100g
Water 64g
Sugar 28g
Salt 3g
Broccoli stems, peeled 40g
and thinly sliced
Shall ots, thinly sliced 28g
Currants 18g
Broccoli florets 1 kg
Broccoli, small florets 200g
Fryingoi l 50g
Salt to taste
Pickling brine, to taste
from above
Toasted pumpkin seeds SOg
Chili oil 30 g
see page 29
Salted lardo, frozen and 100 g
very thinly sliced
from page 2181
SCALING
10%
10%
6.4%
2.8%
0.3%
4%
2.8%
1.8%
100%
20%
5%
5%
3%
10%
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk together to make pickling brine.
CD Bring to simmer.
Reserve.
@ Combine.
Pour warm brine over broccoli-stem mixture to pickle.
Cool completely.
0) Reserve.
Arrange fl orets in one layer in combi oven steam basket.
Steam at 90 ' C/ 195 ' F and 100% humidity for 8 min, or until desired texture is achieved .
@ Toss small florets in oi l, and place on baking sheet.
@ Oven fry in combi oven at 270 ' C / 520 ' F and 0% humidity for 4 min.
@ Drain.
@ Season steamed and fried broccoli.
@ Strain reserved pickled mixture, reserving brine.
@ Toss steamed and fried broccoli with pickles, brine, pumpkin seeds, and chili oil.
@ Drape over warm broccoli mix, and serve.
COOKING IN MODERN OVENS
STOCKS
CD Weigh cold water. Scale all other ingredie nts relat ive to the water weight.
For every1 kg of wate r, for example, use 200 g of chicken wings an d 750 g
of ground chicken meat for chicken stock. Although the amount of water
used is t he biggest factor in the yield, t he moist ure ofthe ingredients
used, the cooking t ime, and the cooking met hod all affect the yield.
o Mix vegetables and aromatics. See Best Bets for Stock Aromatics on page 8
for our recommendations.
Add stock ingredi e nts and water. See the Best Bets fo r Stocks table below
fo r our recomme ndat ions. You can use more or less water than indi cated
depe nd ing o n the purpose of you r stock.
Cook. The tabl e lis ts sugges ted cooki ng met hods, times, and
te mperatures. If press ure-cooking, set t he press ure shown o n the gauge
to 1 bar / 15 psi. Vacuu m seal ingredi e nts before cooking so us vide.
@ Rest until press ure cooker has depress urized, abo ut 20 mi n. Strain.
Best Bets for Stocks
Stock Fat (scaling) Bone
chicken, duck, frying oil 8% wi ngs
or pigeon
beef sue t 5% calf's foot, split
veal frying oil 5% veal knuckle
lamb frying oil 5% lamb shoulder
and neck
pork frying oil 7.5% pork ribs
shellfish cl arifi ed 5% lo bst e r, shrimp,
unsalted o r crab she ll s and heads
butter
vegetable vegetable o il 5% n/ a
fi sh oli ve oi l 10% fis h bo nes
Chinese banquet po rk ribs
duck wings
chicke n wings
Chinese chi cke n carcass
everyday
Japanese chi cken carcass
chi cken feet
pork trotte r
Thai chi cke n wings
pork ribs
fro m page 2296
VARIATION: WHITE STOCK
CD Foll ow steps 1 and 2 at left.
o Blanch bones. Cover the bones in cold wate r, and bring to a boil.
Sweat stock ingredie nts and aromatics in fat. See the Best Bets fo r Stocks
table below for recommended ingredients.
@ Foll ow steps 3-5 at left.
(scaling) Meat (scaling) liquid (scaling)
40% ground chicken 75% water 100%
20% ground beef 80% water 100%
red wine 10%
(for brown stock
on ly)
50% ground veal 25% water 100%
Madeira 15%
35% ground lamb 100% water 100%
50% ground pork 50% water 100%
white port (dry) 8%
65% squ id or scallo p 20% water 100%
meat (optional)
dry vermout h 15%
n/a water 100%
100% n/ a water 100%
white wine 10%
20% cured ham, 10% water 100%
20% thinl y sli ced Shaoxing wine 5%
15%
30% ground pork 40% water 100%
24% ground pork 8% water 100%
6% shou lder
12%
20% gro und po rk 35% wate r 100%
12% coconut wate r 40%
...
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-
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--

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-
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-
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-
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-

VARIATION: SHELLFISH STOCK
@ Follow steps 1 and 2 in Stocks, previous page.
o Saute shellfish, aromatics, and tomato paste in fat on stove top. See the
table below for recommended ingredients.
Foll ow steps 3-5 in Stocks.
Preparation (brown stock only) (h) Cook
roast meat and bones Y2 pressure-cook
roast meat and bones 1 pressure-cook
roast meat ; pressure-cook
roast meat 1 pressure-cook
roast meat and bones 1 pressure-cook
fry shell s with tomato paste 10 cook sous vide
until golden brown min
saute sliced vegetables 1 cook sous vide
until golden brown
roast bones 20 cook sous vide
min
pressure- cook
pressure-cook
cook so us vide
pressure-cook
VARIATION: RICH BROWN STOCK
@ Weigh water.
o Roast meat, bones, and vegetables. Cook at 190 C / 375 OF for the time
indicated in the table at left. Add tomato paste if desired.
Deglaze roasting pa n. Use wine or water.
o Combine aromatics with roasted ingredients .
Follow steps 3-5 in Stocks, previous page .
(h) (OC) (oF)
1h n/ a n/ a
2Y2 n/ a n/ a
2h n/ a n/ a
1Y2 n/ a n/ a
2 n/ a n/ a
3,4
88 190
3 85 185
11/1 88 190
2 n/ a n/ a
11/1 n/ a n/ a
11/1 90 194
1Y2 n/ a n/ a
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 7
1
Best Bets for Stock Aromatics
Stock Vegetable (scaling)' Herb
vegetable onion 33% parsley
carrot 25% bay leaf
leek 8% thyme
tomato, peeled and seeded 8% chive
celery 5%
mushroom 5%
poultry onion 6% parsley
carrot 5%
leek 5%
meat, beef onion 10% thyme
carrot 10% rosemary
cele ry 2%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5%
game, lamb onion 7% bay leaf
carrot 7% thyme
celery 2% sage
shellfish carrot 5% parsley
onion 5% t hyme
leek 2% basil
fennel 2%
button mushroom 2%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5%
fish carrot 33% n/ a
onion 26%
leek 13%
fennel 13%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5%
Chinese banquet scalli on 0.2% n/ a
Chinese everyday scallion l.2% n/ a
Japanese onion 3.5% n/ a
carrot 3.5%
scalli on 1%
Thai scalli on 1% cilantro stalks
cabbage 1% Thai basil
fried shallot 4% makrud lime leaf
from page 2298 ' (set weight of water to 700%)
,; _ .... _.
(scaling)' Spice
0.75% black peppercorns
0.01% coriander seed
0.10% star anise
1.00%
0.50% black peppercorns
garlic
0.8% star anise
0.15% garlic
0.01% star anise
1.00% garli c
0.20% black peppercorns
0.25% fennel seed
0.10% saffron
0.20%
garl ic
coriander seed
star anise
ginger
white peppercorns
cinnamon sticks
ginger
ginger
garlic
kombu
bonito flakes
0 .20% gi nger
0.30% garli c
0.40%
(scaling)'
0.1%
0.2%
0.2%
0.1%
1%
0.05%
1%
1.5%
2%
0.2%
0.01%
0.005%
2%
0.3%
0.2%
0.4%
0.01%
0.05%
1%
0.4%
0.75%
0.1%
5%
0.4%
0.5%




w
-

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,



~
~
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SPICED SHELLFISH STOCK
Yields 800 g
;;;,
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chicken wings, chopped 500g 33% @ Roast together in 230 c / 450 OF oven until uniformly
-=-
Ground pork 500g 33%
golden brown, about25 min, and reserve.
~
Dungeness crab (whole) 1.5 kg 100% Crush crab shell s and meat into small e r pieces.
(about
Fry in bottom of pressure cooker in oils until golden,
~ three medium)
about8 min.
~
Grapeseed oil 150 g 10%
@ Remove crab pieces from oil, and reserve crab pieces
Coconut oil 25g 1.7% and imbued oil.
-
-
leeks, thinly sliced 250g 17% Fry prepared vegetables together wit h reserved crab
--
Carrots, peel ed and 200g 13.5%
oil in pressure cooker until golden.
-
thinly sliced Add tomato paste.
......
Green onions, 150g 10%
o Continue fryi ng until mixture is amber and cooked
-
--
thinly sliced
tomato flavor develops, about3 min.
-
Shallots, thinly sl iced 150g 10%
--
Tomato paste 50g 3.5%
-- .... Water 1.5 kg 100% Deglaze pressure cooker.
-
100 g Carrot juice 7%
......
(from 250 g
-
....
carrots)
-
Shaoxingwine 82.5g 5.5%
....
Star anise 1.8 g 0.12% Combine, and place in sachet.
..-
....
Black peppercorns 0.8g 0.05% @ Combine reserved pork and chicken mixture,
-
Grains of parad ise 0.6g 0.04%
vegetable mixture, and crab pieces in pressure
.....,
Coriander seeds O.4g 0.03%
cooker.
--
...... Cardamom pod 0.3g 0.02%
@ Add sachet, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
--
1 bar / 15 psi for 1 h.
....
@ Strain, and refrigerate until use .
-
......
from page5186
---
....
PAELLA STOCK Yields 750 g
-

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
~
Rabbittrimmings 350g 35% @ Brown in 190 C / 375 OF oven until golden, about
Rabbit carcass 335g 34%
25min.
....
Yellow onions, 125g 12% Sweat onions until translucent, about 5 min.
-
........
thin ly sliced
-
Grapeseed oil 100 g 10%
....
Tomatoes, peel ed 100g 10% Add to onions, and saute vegetable mixture until
--'
~
and seeded golden, about 7 min.
Carrots, thinly sli ced 75g 7.5%
~
leeks, thinly sliced 60g 6%
....
Fennel, thinly sliced 55g 5.5%
--'
Piquillo peppers, 40g 4%
--..,
thinly sliced
--'
~
Pimenton de la Vera 6g 0.6%
(sweet)
-. Thyme 2.25g 0.2%
--
--..,
Water 1 kg 100% @ Combine in press ure cooker wit h browned rabbit
--
White chicken stock 550g 55%
pieces and vegetable mixture.
.... see page 11
Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi
-
for1 h .
.....,
--
Cool.
......
o Strai n through fin e sieve.
--
Refrigerate until use .
......
~
from page 5240
~
......
~
....
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--..,
~
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 9
......
........
iii
TRIPLE DUNGENESS CRAB AND PORK STOCK INFUSION Yields 850 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Dungeness crab, chopped 1.35 kg
Chicken wings,
finely chopped
Ground pork
Grapeseed oil
Scallions, thinly sliced
Carrots, peeled and thinly
sl iced
Leeks, thinly sliced
Fennel, thinly sliced
Shallots, thinly sliced
Tomato paste
Sake
Wate r
Star anise, li ghtly crushed
Cinnamon stick
Black peppercorns
Sugar
from page 5254
1 kg
650g
315 g
400g
280 g
280g
246g
135 g
50 g
10 9
1 kg
19
O.4 g
0. 3g
3g
BROWN BEEF STOCK
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY
Beef chuck, fin ely ground 200 g
Oxtail, thinly sliced 500g
on a band saw
Rendered beef suet 75g
Water 500g
Red wine (full-bodied) 100 g
Carrots, peeled and 50g
thinl y sliced
Yellow onions, peeled 50g
and thinly sliced
Celery, peeled and 20 g
thinly sli ced
Leeks, whites only, 20 g
thinly sli ced
Red port (dry) 20 g
Parsley leaves 10 9
Thyme
19
Bay leaf 0.5g
from page 2301
SCALING PROCEDURE
135% CD Panfry until golden brown, about 15 min.
100% 0 Remove fro m pan, and reserve.
65%
31.5%
40% o Add to pan used fo r meat, and saute vegetables unt il lightl y browned.
28%
28%
24.6%
13.5%
5% o Add to vegetabl es, and continue to saute until mi xture is golde n brown, about4 min.
1%
100%
0.1%
0.04%
0.03%
0.3%
SCALING
40%
100%
15%
100%
10%
10%
10%
4%
4%
4%
2%
0.2%
0.1 %
Deglaze pan of vegetable mix ture with sake.
@) Add water and rese rved browned crab, chi cken, and pork mi xt ure.
o Pressure-cook mixture at gauge press ure ofl bar / 15 psi forl h.
Cool, and then strain through fin e sieve, yie lding about 850 g of stock.
Bring stock to boil , and remove from heat.
@) Add spices, and steep for 1 min.
@ Strai n through fin e sieve.
@ Whisk sugar into stock infusion until dissolved.
@ Cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal.
o Cook sous vide in 90 ' C / 194 ' F bath until jui ces are released, aboutl h.
o Strain, reserving jui ce; discard meat.
o Cool beef jui ce, and reserve.
Roast oxtail with suet in 190 ' C / 375 ' F oven until oxtail is brown, about30 min.
@) Discard excess fat.
o Cool and reserve.
Combine in press ure cooker with beef juice and oxtail.
Pressure-cook at gauge press ure of l bar / 15 psi for 21/2 h.
@) Strain.
@ Cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refri gerate unt il use.
Yields 650 g
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BROWN VEAL STOCK Yields 650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Veal knuckle and neck bones, 500g
sawed into 5 cm / 2 in pieces,
ifpossibl e
Neutral oil 75g
Veal trimmings, finely ground 500g
Neutral oil 50g
Unsalted butter 15 g
Sweet onions, peeled 50g
and thinly sliced
Carrots, peeled and thinly 25g
sliced
Leek, thinly sliced 25g
Tomato confit 40g
see page 179
Water 1 kg
Vodka 20g
Parsley leaves 3g
Black peppercorns, crushed 19
from page 2-300
SCALING
50%
7.5%
50%
5%
1.5%
5%
2.5%
2.5%
4%
100%
2%
0.3%
0.1%
PROCEDURE
@ Cover with water.
o Bring to boil , skimming often.
Drain, discarding water.
@ Coat bones with oi l.
Roast in 190 C / 375 of oven until golden brown, about 30 min.
@ Reserve bones, and discard excess oil.
o Combine on nonstick baking she et.
Roast in 190 c / 375 OF oven until evenly brown, about 20 min.
@! Strain, and reserve meat.
@ Melt butter in press ure cooker.
@ Add vegetables to pressure cooker.
@ Cook uncovered, stirring frequently, until moisture has evaporated and vegetables
are tender, about 7 min.
@ Add to pressure cooker, and increase heat to high .
@ Saute vegetables and confit uncovered, stirring constantly until brown, about 4 min.
@ Add to pressure cooker with bones and meat.
@ Pressure-cook mixture at gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 2Y2 h.
@ Cool.
@ Strain.
@ Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
PRESSURE-COOKED WHITE CHICKEN STOCK Yields400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chicken wing meat and bones,
chopped
Water
Chicken thigh meat, finely ground
Sweet onions, peeled and
thinly sliced
Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
Leeks, thinly sliced
Garlic, thinly sliced
Parsley leaves and stems
Black peppercorns
from page 2301
ONION STOCK
350g
500g
350g
50g
25 g
25 g
5g
19
0.5g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 400 g
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g
Water
Vermouth (dry)
from page 5264
500g
30g
70% @ Cover wit h cold water.
100%
70%
10%
5%
5%
1%
0.2%
0.1%
o Bring to boil , and then drain chicken
immediately. Alternatively, for brown stock,
roast wings and bones, and fry ground
chi cken unti l golden brown.
Combine with blanched chicken in press ure
cooker.
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar /
15 psi for 1Y2 h.
Strain through fine sieve.
@ Cool.
o Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Yields 650 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
12.5%
125%
7.5%
@ Saute onions over medium-high heat, stirring
frequently unti l golden, about 15 min.
o Simmer with sauteed onions for 1 h.
Strain.
o Cool, and refrigerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCHE N
, ~ . --- . ~ - ...
11
HOW TO MAKE STOCK SO US VIDE
CD Prepare ingredi e nts. Gri nd meat fine ly, and sli ce vegetables thinly.
Use ratios recommended in the tabl e of Best Bets fo r Stocks on page 6.
Roast bones.
o Cavitate in ul trasonic cl eaning bat h fo r 30 min (optional). If the ultrasonic
bath has a temperature setting, put it at the hi ghest degree avai lable,
typically 60 ' C/ 140 F.
(3) Vacuum seal ingredi e nts together.
Cooksous vide in 85 'C/ 185 ' F bath for3 h.
SOUS VIDE FISH STOCK
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Fi sh bones, cl eaned and rinsed 2 kg
Ne utral oil 50g
Vermou th 350g
White wine (dry) 200g
Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 500 g
Onions, peeled and thinly sli ced 400 g
Fenne l, thinly sliced 200 g
l eeks, thinly sli ced 200g
Garli c cloves, thinly sli ced 30g
Neutral oil 20 g
Water 15 kg
Coriander seeds 5g
Star anise 2.5g
from page 2303
SCALING
133%
3%
23%
13%
33%
27%
13%
13%
2%
1 5%
100%
0.3%
0.17%
Refrigerate fo r12 h, and then strain.
@) Vacuum seal again, and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
PROCEDURE
CD Panfry bones unti l golden.
(3) Deglaze bones.
Cool mi xt ure compl etely, and rese rve.
o Pre pare vegetabl es as noted.
Combine, and cook until soft.
@) Cool completely.
o Combine wit h bones and vegetables.
Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 80 ' C/ 176 ' F bath for";' h.
@ Strain.
@ Cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Yields 1.5 kg
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SOUS VIDE VEGETABLE STOCK
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Water sOOg 100%
Onions, peeled and 280g 56%
thinly sliced
Carrots, peeled and 200g 40%
thinly sliced
Celery, peeled and 100g 20%
thinly sliced
Leeks, whites only, 100g 20%
thinly sliced
Button mushrooms, sOg 10%
thinly sliced
Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, sOg 10%
and chopped
Chives
109
2%
Parsley 109 2%
Coriander seeds 1.sg 0.3%
Black peppercorns 1 g 0.2%
Thyme 1 g 0.2%
Bay leaf O.sg 0.1%
Star anise O.sg 0.1%
from page 2303
PROCEDURE
CD Prepare vegetables as noted.
(3) Combine.
Vacuum sea l.
8) Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 3 h.
Yields3s0 g
Transfer to ultrason ic cleaning bath, and cavitate for 30 min to improve extraction.
If unavai lable, proceed with remaining steps.
@ Cool, and refrigerate for12 h.
o Strain.
Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCH EN 13
BROTH
CD Select a broth from the table.
o Prepare and scale the liquid, meat,
vegetables, and aromatics. Weights in
the table are proportional to the liquid
scaled to 100%. For example, to make
dashi, for every 100 g of water used,
add 5.2 g of bonito flakes and 2.5 g of
kombu.
Pressure-cook (set to 1 bar 115 psi),
orvacuum seal and cook sous vide.
Recommended cooking methods,
temperatures, and times are given
in the table.
o Sieve.
When making dashi, the bonito flakes
are added only after the kombu has
been cooked sous vide.
Best Bets for Broths
Broth Stock
pot-au-feu wh ite beef stock*
vegetable stock*
madeira
ham broth water
madeira
fino sherry
game broth brown chicken stock*
gin
red wine
capon broth white chicken stock*
white wine (d ry)
salt cod broth water
dashi water
pho broth water
Chinese ginger Chinese fish stock**
soy fish broth Shaoxing wine
light soy sauce
"Marmite broth" red wine
adapted from
water
Heston Blumenthal
from page 2304 *(see page 6)
..
(sca ling) Meat (scaling)
100% oxtail, chopped 30%
50% short rib meat, ground 20%
4%
100% prosciutto, thinly sliced 62.5%
25% ham, thinly sliced 25%
19% Iberico ham, thinly sliced 25%
100% venison, ground, roasted 50%
10%
pigeon wings, roasted 12%
10%
pheasant trimmings, 10%
blanched
100% capon meat, ground 30%
25%
100% salt cod skins, soaked for 20%
12 h in cold water
100% bonito flakes 5.2%
100% beef knuckles, roasted 44%
100% nl a nl a
1.5%
1.5%
750%** nla nla
100%
**(reduced to 250%)
BORSCHT BROTH Yields400g
INGREDIENT
Red beet juice
Water
White fish stock
see page 6
Rhubarb juice
Red wine vinegar
Caraway seeds, finely
ground
Salt
from page 5235
QUANTITY
200g
110 g
gOg
16g
8g
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Vacuum seal together.
55% 0 Cooksous vide in 85 C/ 185 OF bath for30 min.
45% Pass through fine sieve.
8%
4%
o Warm borscht broth, and season.
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Vegetable (scaling) Aromatic Method (h)
carrot 10% clove 0.01% press ure-cook 2
turnip, thin ly sli ced 10% bay leaf 0.05%
onion, thinly sliced 8%
shallot, thinly sli ced 25% black pepper 2.50% pressure-cook 11/2
ga rlic, thinly sli ced 12.5% sherry vinegar to taste
whole onion 5% juniper berries, 0.2% pressure-cook 1
carrot, thinly sliced 5% crus hed
celery, thinly sli ced 2% sage, thinly sl iced 0.1%
shallot, thin ly sliced 15% Parmesan, grated 10% cook sous vide 2
cinnamon extract 3%
(see page 27)
sage, thinly sli ced 0.15%
onion, thinly sliced 20% thyme 0.2% cook sous vide 3
garli c, thinl y sli ced 10%
kombu 2.5% n/ a cook sous vide 1
whole onion, charred 24% bl ack pepper 0.04% pressure-cook 11/2
ginger, charred 5% star ani se 0.02%
ci nnamon 0.02%
all spice 0.01%
scallion 3% Szechuan pepper 0.05% cook so us vide 35 min
ginger 2% rice vinegar to taste
chili 0.05% honey to taste
leek, thinly sli ced 1,000% black pepper to taste cook sous vide 45min
carrot, thinly sli ced 500% Ma rmit e to t aste
onion, thinly sli ced 1,000% sherry vinegar to taste
HON DASHI ADAPTED FROM YOsHIHIRO MURATA Yie lds360 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 475g
Rishiri kombu, or best quality 12g
seaweed avai lable (brown kelp)
Bonito flakes (katsuobushil 25g
from page 2306
SCALING
100%
2.5%
5.3%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacu um seal together.
o Cook sous vide in 60 C / 140 OF bath for 1 h.
Cool, and refrigerate for 2 h.
o Strain.
Heat broth to 85 C / 185 F.
@) Add bonito flakes, and steep for10 s.
o Strain.
Cool.
Vacu um seal, and refrigerate until needed.
THE MODERN I ST KITCHEN
(OC) (oF)
See page
n/ a n/ a
n/ a n/ a next page
n/ a n/ a 72
88 192
90 196
60 140 below, 241
n/ a n/ a 16
80 176
80 176
The kombu flavor can be increased
by extending the refrigerator time
from 2 h to as lo ng as 12 h. The
longer the time, the stronger
the flavor.
15
' :7
Any cured meat can be used he re
instead of ham.
The sachet is a pouch made of
cheesecl oth that keeps the spi ce
mi xture together in much the same
way that a tea bag holds tea leaves.
The broth can be made without the
sachet, but then you will have to
filter out the loose spi ce mi x to get
a pe rfectl y cl ear broth.
HAM BROTH Yi e lds535g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Wate r 500 g
Prosciutto ends, thinl y sli ced 250 g
Cooked white ham, 100 g
thinly sli ced
Jam6n Iberico, thinl y sli ced 100 g
Made ira 100 g
Shallots, thinly sli ced 100 g
Fino sherry 75g
Garlic, thinl y sliced 50 g
Bl ack peppe rcorns, crushed 10 9
Ham broth, from above 500 g
160 Bl oom gelatin 4g
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.75g
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
from page 2306
OXTAIL PHO BROTH
100%
50%
20%
20%
20%
20%
15%
10%
2%
100%
0.8%
0.15%
CD Pre pare ingredi ents as noted.
o Combine in press ure cooker.
Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi
fo r lY' h.
@ Stra in.
Cool compl etely.
Measure 500 g.
(2) Disperse gelatin and gum in cold broth.
Heat brot h just e nough to di ssolve gelatin.
Season and cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
Yields 4.75 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Black peppercorns
Cinnamon sti ck
Star a ni se, ground
Allspice
Wate r
Beef knuckl es, blanched
White onions, whol e, unpeeled,
a nd cha rred
Oxta il, jointed and seared
Ginger, halved and charred
Fish sauce
Salt
Sugar
from page 2307
2g
19
19
0.5g
5 kg
2.2 kg
1. 2 kg
900 g
250 g
to tas te
to tas te
to taste
0.04%
0.02%
0.02%
0.01%
100%
44%
24%
18%
S%
CD Combine.
o Toast spi ce mi x.
Pl ace in sachet made of cheesecloth.
@ Combine in press ure cooke r.
Add sachet.
Press ure-cook broth at1 bar / lS psi
for 3 h.
(2) Discard sachet.
Season and cool.
Vacuum seal, and refri gerate until needed.
DUCK BROTH WITH VANILLA AND BAY LEAF Yi e lds500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Duck meat, fin ely ground 400 g
Duck wings, chopped 100 g
Duck fat 30 g
Sha llots, thinly sliced 12S g
Leeks, thinly sliced 7Sg
White port (dry) lS0 g
White wine lS0 g
Water 700 g
Va nilla bean seeds 1.5 g
Bay leaf O.S g
Limejuice to tas te
Salt to tas te
from page 5110
SCALING
400%
100%
30%
125%
7S%
l S0%
l S0%
700%
1.5%
0. 5%
PROCEDURE
CD Brown toget her lightl y in pressure cooker,
about10 min.
o Add to du ck parts, and cook until translucent.
Add to duck parts, and reduce to 225 g.
@ Place with duck reducti on in pressure cooker, and
press ure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / lS psi
for1 Y, h.
Strain through fin e sieve.
Season and serve broth, or cool and refrigerate until
use.
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LAKSA BROTH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Onions, peeled and chopped 100 g
Lemongrass, finely minced 40 g
Candlenuts, roasted and grated 30 g
Shrimp paste
Dried chili
Galangal, peeled and chopped
Turmeric(fresh), peeled
a nd chopped
Laksa paste, from above
Neutral oil
White fis h stock
see page 6
Caramelized coconut cream
see page 214
Fish sauce
Limejuice
from page 2307
20g
5g
5g
0.7 g
28g
20g
360g
100g
to taste
to taste
BOUILLABAISSE BROTH
INGREDIENT
Tomatoes, peeled, seeded,
and diced
Whi te oni ons, thinly sli ced
Fennel, thinl y sliced
Shall ots, thinl y sliced
Leeks, thinly sli ced
Carrots, thinly sli ced
Oli ve oil
Garlic, thinly sli ced
Tomato confit, pureed
(or tomato paste)
see page 179
Fish bones and head
Neutral oi l
Water
White wine (dry)
Pastis
Thyme
Black peppercorns, crushed
Bay leaf
Saffron threads
QUANTITY
120g
115g
100g
85g
80g
75 g
50g
25g
60g
800g
75g
900g
200g
50g
3g
19
0.6g
0.3 g
Blood orange juice 17 g
Red miso paste 13 g
Blood orange zest, finely grated 1 g
Salt to taste
from page 2308
SCALING
28%
11%
8.3%
5.5%
1.4%
1.4%
0.2%
7.8%
5.5%
100%
28%
SCALING
13%
13%
11 %
9.5%
9%
8%
5.5%
3%
7%
89%
8%
100%
22%
5.5%
0.33%
0.1%
0.06%
0.003%
2%
1.4%
0.1%
Yields500 g
PROCEDURE
CD Prepare ingredients as noted.
o Blend together in food processor.
Measure 28 g of paste, reserving the rest.
@) Saute until golden and very fragrant,
about3 min.
Transfer paste to large pot, and whisk
in stock and cream.
Simmer broth for 5 min.
o Season and cool.
o Vacuum seal, and refr igerate until needed.
PROCEDURE
CD Prepare vegetables as noted.
0 Combine.
Yie lds 750 g
Cook ove r low heat unti l tender and golden,
about25 min.
@) Add, and increase heat to medium high.
Saute until browned, about5 min, and
reserve.
Coat bones in oil.
o Bake in 180 ' C / 325 ' F oven until golden,
about45 min.
o Cool.
Combine wit h vegetable mi xt ure and fish
parts.
@ Vacuum seal.
@ Cook sous vide in 80 ' c / 175 ' F bath
for 1'/4 h.
@ Strain.
@ Cool.
@ Skim fat from surface.
@ Season.
@ Cool.
Vacuum seal, and refri gerate until needed.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
La ksa is one of t he great dishes
of the Peranakan culture that
merges Chinese and Malay
traditions. Many feel that the best
laksa is found in the food- hawking
centers of Singapore.
17
BACON DASHII NSP IRED BY DAV ID C HANG Yields 800 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 1 kg 100% 0) Vacuu m seal together.
Kombu 25 g 2.5%
o Cook sous vide in 60 ' C/ 140 ' F bath for1 h.
Strai n out kombu.
Bacon, thin ly sli ced 250g 25% o Vacuum seal wit h kombu-infused water.
The quality of the bacon used
determines the quality of the final
das hi.
Sake (dry), flamed off 30g 3%
Cook sous vide in 85 ' C / 185 ' F bath for1 h 30 min.
Mirin
Soy sauce
Sake
Sugar
from page 2308
TOM YUM BROTH
INGREDIENT
Shallots, chopped
Lemongrass, bruised a nd
sli ced thinly
Palm sugar
QUANTITY
160 g
78g
60g
Tamarind paste 60 g
Garlic, chopped 50 g
Ginger, peeled and cut 45 g
into coin shapes
Cilantro stems, washed 40 g
and chopped
Galangal, peeled and chopped 40 g
Belacan shrimp paste 10 9
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf, bruised 8 g
Bird's Thai chili, chopped 5 g
Neutral oil as needed
Shrimp stock (or vegetable stock) 500 g
see page 6
Palm sugar
Fi sh sauce
Salt
20 g
7g
2g
Lime juice to taste
fro m page 2309
SCALING
32%
15.6%
12%
12%
10%
9%
8%
8%
2%
1.6%
1%
100%
4%
1.4%
0.4%
Strain out bacon.
10 9 1% o Combine.
109 1%
Adj ust seasoning as needed.
6g 0.6%
l .4g 0.14%
PROCEDURE
0) Pre pare ingredients as noted.
o Combine in blende r.
Puree.
o Measure 100 g of paste.
Saute paste until dry and very fragrant, about 5 min.
Whisk into sauteed paste in large pot, and bring to simme r.
o Season.
Cool.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
Yi e lds 750 g
CURED HAM BROTH Yields350g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly sli ced 50g 16.7% 0) Saute onions and leeks in oil until trans lucent.
Qliveoil 25g 8.3%
Leeks, thinly sliced 21 g 7%
Dry-cured ham, thinly 50g 16.7% o Add to onion and leek mixture, and saute for 5 min.
sliced
Garlic, thinly sliced 5.5 g 1.8%
Brown pork stock 300g 100% Combine with sauteed mi xture.
see page 6
o Press ure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for1 h.
Sa lt 1.2 g 0.4%
Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
Thyme 0.3g 0.1%
Season, and serve or refrigerate unt il use.
from page 584
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BAKED POTATO BROTH Yi elds300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Russet potato skins
Frying oil
100g
20g
100%
20%
Russet potatoes, peeled and
thinly sliced
75g 75%
Clarified unsal ted butter 15g 15%
Potato juice, decanted from
starch residue
300g
(from 700 g
of potatoes)
300%
Water 300g 300%
Salt to taste
from page 2309
GOULASH BROTH
INGREDIENT
Tomato confit
see page179
Grapeseed oil
Red bell pepper juice
Red onions, thinly sli ced
Re ndered suet
Brown beef stock
see page 10
Caraway seeds, toasted
Black peppercorns,
toasted
Sweet paprika
Hot paprika
Black cumin seeds,
toasted
Cumin seeds, toasted
Sherry vinegar
Sugar
Salt
from page 556
QUANTITY SCALING
100 g 17%
50g 8.5%
120 g 20%
(from 300 g
red bell peppers)
600g 100%
100g 17%
800g
3.5g
3g
2g
1. 25 g
0.5g
0.5g
45g
6g
to taste
133%
0.6%
0.5%
0.3%
0.2%
0.08%
0.08%
7.5%
1%
MUSHROOM BROTH
@ Coat skins with oil.
o Bake in 95 C / 200 OF oven for 7 h, until golde n and compl etely desiccated.
o Cool.
8) Panfry over medium-high heat until deep golden, about15 min on each si de.
o Cool.
Vacuum seal with cooked potato skins and sli ces.
o Cook so us vide in 80 C/ 176 OF bath forlY2 h.
Strain .
Season and cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
Yields 1 kg
PROCEDURE
@ Panfry confit with o il, sti rring constant ly to prevent
burning, until dark, about l0 min.
o Degl aze pan.
Scrape away and discard any bits on bottom of pan.
8) Measure 250 g of mixture, and reserve.
o Cook o ni ons slowly in suet until deep ambe r and dry,
about 45 min. If pan becomes too dry, add small
amount of water to prevent onio ns fro m becoming
too dark.
Combine all ingredients with both reserved tomato
confit mixture and redu ced onions.
o Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 85 C/ 185 OF bath for2V2 h.
Strai n through fine sieve.
@ Clarify with centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h.
@ Refrigerate until chi ll ed.
@ Measure 25 g offat fro m surface of broth; reserve fat
and broth separately.
@ Season broth.
Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, thinly sliced
Olive oil
Water
Crimini mushrooms,
thinly sliced
from page 514
37g
8.5g
250g
140g
25% @ Saute unt il golde n, aboutl 5 min.
6%
180% 0 Pressure-cook with shall ots at gauge pressure of
100% l.4 bar / 21 psi for 45 min.
o Strain and cool.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 19
6
~
y - - - -- --
.....
..s....
-
.:L.
INFUSING FLAVOR INTO A LIQUID
~
-L
~
o Combine ingredi ent with cold liquid. Quantities in the tabl e Best Bets for Infused
.L
Liquids below are proportional to the weight ofthe li quid. For exampl e, to infuse rice
vinegar with lemongrass, add 10 g of crushed lemongrass for every 100 g of vinega r. ~
Vacuum seal (optional), and cook. Recommended cooking methods, temperatures,
-
and times are given in the tabl e. Sieve.
~
-

...
...
Best Bets for Infused Liquids
..
...
Infusion
...
(scaling)* Method
(OC) (O F) (h) Example use
So.
Ingredient See page
...
cured bacon, thinly sliced 30% cook so us vide 85 185 2 bacon water
....
black pepper, crushed 0.50% infuse so us vide 3 37 12
....
..
chili, dried 2% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 Chinese broth
-
...
cinnamon, finely crushed 3% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 cinnamon dashi 248
....
coffee, grounp 7% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 beef jus
"-
ginger, thinly sliced 120% blend, infuse 3 37 12 Chinese broth
...
...
juniper, crushed 7% cook sous vide 70 148 15 min game broth
,.
..
lemon zest, grated 10% infuse so us vide 3 37 12 broth for pasta
-
lemongrass, thinly sliced 50% cook so us vide 85 185 20 min Thai or Vietnamese broth
..
lemon verbena 30% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 le mon verbena sponge 318
..
licorice root, grated 5% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 broth for fo ie gras
..
mushroom, dried 6% cook so us vide 60 140 20 min mushroom cappuccino 320
infuse so us vide
..
nutmeg, grated 0.2% 3 37 12
Parmesan cheese, grated 80% cook so us vide 85 185 12 Parmesan water
..
prosciutto, thinly sliced 30% cook so us vide 80 176 2 prosciutto water
,-
..
saffron threads 1.5% infuse so us vide 3 37 24 tomato vinegar 315

star anise, crushed 3% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 ,.
tarragon 20% infuse so us vide 3 37 12 be urre blanc, fi sh broth
tea, black 3% ultrasonic bath 85 185 5 min be rgamot sabayon 319
'"
tea, green 2% infuse sous vide 3 37 12
..
"
tea, white 4% cook so us vide 70 158 7min
"
paprika, finely ground 2% infuse sous vide 3 37 3 gou lash
..
A
young pine buds 8% boil and refrigerate 3 37 12 citrus seafood broth

vanilla 1.5% infuse sous vide 3 37 24 broth for fo ie gras 5109
from page 2310 *(set weight o/liquid to 700%)
-
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-
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-
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-
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-
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-
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-
-
Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers
When cooks judge the flavor balance a nd seasoning of b es ides sprinkling salt crystals over your food: a nchovies,
a dish, salt is typically checked first. Ge t th e salt leve l wrong, dri ed scallops, a nd shrimp paste a ll layer on t astes ofthe
and diners will quickly be distracted from t heir enjoyment sea a nd the shore. Ingredie nts s uch as bacons, hams, a nd
of the food. Table salt e nhances our p e rception of flavor, c heeses carry hints of the country, barnyard, a nd some-
and so do nucl eotides and monosod ium glutamate (MSG), times smoke. Soy sauce, fish sauce, mi so, and natto are
which are savory salts that trigger diffe rent taste re ceptors a ll fe rme nte d seasoning agents, a nd each has a certain
than salt does. You can e nha nce fl avor in many ways tanginess a nd vegetal qua lity.
Salts Taste Aroma (scaling)' Note
salt defines salty none 0.5%-2.0% most useful flavor enhancer in the kitchen; most
people find 0.75-1% best for savory foods
monosodium defines umami none 0.1%-2.0% found naturally in all hi gh-protein foods; some
glutamate
(also cal led savory) peopl e find >1% harsh and metallic-tasting
5' savory none 0.02% found naturally in most foods; boosts existing
ribonucleotides
savory fl avors
Seasonings
aged cheese salty, sharp, acidi c, varies greatly 3%-10% hard cheeses like Parmesan contain both salt and
strongly savory glutamate
anchovy salty and oil y fis hy; roasted sce nt when 0.2%-0.8% used as a seasoning since the time of Imperial Rome
cooked
bacon salty smoky, fri ed, meaty 3%-15% can qui ckl y overwhelm a dish
capers salty, sli ghtl y bitter mustard oil, hint of thyme 2% add at the last moment; high heat degrades aromas
(salt-packed)
and astringent
cured meats salty, strongly savory, va ri es greatl y; often nutty, 5%-15% use with moderation; combination of salt, sugar, fat,
sli ghtl y sweet fruity, and floral and Maill ard fl avors with smoke aromas is powerful
dried scallops slightly sweet pungent, slightly fi shy, cured 3%-5% used primarily in As ian cooki ng
fish sauce salty, strongly savory, pungent, sli ghtly fishy 2%-10% adds depth and savory flavor; tastes bette'r
sli ghtly sweet than it smells; a favo rite in anci ent Rome
garlic pu ngent, sl ightly sulfurous 1%-7% when garlic is crushed and raw or li ghtl y cooked,
sweet, enhances its alli cin compounds trigger pain and temperature
savory receptors in the mouth, thereby enhancing flavors
Marmite or salty, strongly savory yeasty, meaty, malted 0.3%-1.5% adds meat- li ke fl avors to vegetarian dishes
Vegemite
miso, red slightly sweet, savory strong, roasted, hint of cocoa 1%-8% includes all three primary salts li sted above;
miso, white mild, caramel, toasty 1%-8%
pungency varies with degree of fermentation
natto salty, savory pungent, fermented, roasted, 1%
cheesy
shallots pungent, sli ghtl y sul furous 5%-30% similar to garli c but does not cause onion breath
sweet, enhances because su lfuro us compounds do not enter
savory bloodstream
shrimp paste salty, sli ghtl y sweet, pungent, slightly fishy, cured 1%-3% used primarily in Southeast Asian cooking
savory
soy, dark salty, slightly sweet, strong, fermented, roasted, 2%-5% tastes and aromas vary greatly among styles and
mildly astringent molasses brands
soy, white mellow, sli ghtl y sweet, floral 2%-5%
tomato sweet, aci dic, savory fr uity, musky, someti mes 5%-9% ri ch source of sugars, aci ds, and salts when ripe;
floral enhances roasted aromas when browned with
meats
Worcestershire salty, sweet, savory, fe rmented, roasted, 2%-5% has many applications; underused as a seasoning;
sauce
acidic, sli ghtl y spicy molasses, spi cy, vinegary a distant relative of Roman fish sauce (gorum)
from page 2-312 '(set weight offood being seasoned to 700%)
THE MOD ER NIS T KITCHEN 21
:
SOUS VIDE PONZU ADAPTED FROM KYLE CONNAUGHTON Yields 1.95 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Yuzu 120 g
(about
four whole)
Sudachi (opti onal) 35 g
Mirin 700g
Sake 65g
Kombu (Rishiri if available) 15 g
Tamari soy sauce 550g
Red ri ce vinegar (yusen) 525 g
Shoyu soy sauce (us u-kuchi 1l0g
shoyu)
Bonito fl akes (katsuobushi)
109
from page 2313
Best Bets for Lowering pH
SCALING
17%
5%
100%
9.5%
2%
79%
75%
16%
PROCEDURE
CD Grate zest, and jui ce fl esh.
CD Combi ne in pan, and simmer until reduced to
about 80% of original volume.
Toast over open flame on all sides.
o Combi ne with citrus zest and jui ce, kombu, and
reduced mirin-sake mixt ure.
Vacuu m seal.
@ Refrigerate for 3 weeks.
1.4% 0 Strain.
Use immediately, or vacuum seal and
refrigerate unti l needed.
As it does for vegetable stocks,
putting a broth in an ultrasonic bath
for 30 minutes improves fl avor
extraction. This should be done
after the sous vide cooking step.
Ingredient Typical pH Flavor profile Exampl e uses
Vinegar(pH 2.4-3.4)
cider vinegar 2.4 sharp, apple
malt vinegar 2.4 bittersweet, hops, ca ramel
red wine vinegar 2.4 currant, tanni c
rice vi negar 2.8 sweet, subtle, toasty
sherry vinegar 3.4 sweet, oak, cherry, earthy
white wine vinegar 2.8 clean, bri ght, green grape
Citrus (pH 1.8-3.9)
grapefruit juice 3.7 flora l, light citrus, coffee
lemon juice 2.3 bri ght, perfumed
lime juice 1.8-2 sharp, coconut, pine
orange juice 3.9 sweet, ne roli
Pure acids (diluted 1:10 with water; pH 2.4- 2.9)
acetic acid (vinega r) 2.9 punge nt
ascorbic a cid (vitamin C) 2.9 crisp
citric acid (citrus) 2.4 sharp, citrus
lactic acid (dairy) 2.6 buttermilk, sour cream
ma lic acid (apple, cherry) 2.4 t angy with li ght fruit notes
tartaric acid (grape) 2.4 heavy acidity, li ght fl avor
Tartfruit (pH 2.5-4.2)
salad dress ing, marinade, coagul ation
sauce, marinade
dressing
salad dressing, marinade, coagul ation
salad dressing, fin ishing meat sauce
salad dressing, fish broth, butter sauce
finis hing sauces, seasoning seafood di shes
dressing, sauce, bala ncing o il
sour broth, finis hing fruit and vegetable water
mellows othe r acids
wine sauce, dressing
color preservative
f ruity sauce for fish
dai ry applications, e nhancing fermented flavors
for quick kimchi and saue rkraut
fini shing glaze, sauce, raw fruit sauce, and water
re duction, wine sauce, fr uit sauce
re d currant 3.1 tannic, bitte r, berry glaze or sauce for red meat, game
rhubarb juice 3.4 astringent, herbal, me ll ows when cooked sauce or broth for fish, fo ie gras
tamarind paste 3.7 sour, caramel, punge nt sauce, sweets, dressing, broth
tomato juice 4.2 earthy, complex, vegetable vegetable broth, dressing
verjus 2.7 tannic, grape must finis hing sauce (best used raw)
gooseberry juice 2.6 bitter, sour, floral dressing for shellfish a nd oysters
from page 2314
,.


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Typical Acid Concentrations
Acid type
kitchen aci ds
citrus juice
astringent fruit
vinegar
For seasoning
(pH 5.5-6.5)
0.2%- 0.5%
1%-3%
3%-10%
1%-5%
Forsouri ng For vinaigrettes
(pH 4.0-4.5) (pH 3.0-3.8)
1%-3% 3%- 6%
5%-15% 10%-100%
10%-50% 10%-60%
25%-75% 30%-100%
from page 2315
Kitchen acids include asco rbi c, acetic, citric, lact ic, mal ic, and tartaric acids. Note that the wide
ranges in th is table are due to variations in the initial pH and in the buffering capacity ofthe food.
SEAWEED VINEGAR
Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cidervinegar 200g
Muscovado sugar 26g
Palm sugar 16g
Cori ander seeds, toasted 2g
and crushed
Kombu, shredded, soaked 30g
for 45 min in warm water,
and d rained
Ginger, grated 3g
Whiskey
10 9
Salt to taste
from page 2315
ELDER FLOWER VINEGAR
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White wine vinegar 500g
Elder blossoms, 170g
thoroughly washed
Maltvinegar 100g
Rice vinegar 100g
Sugar 65g
Mal ic acid 2g
from page 2315
100%
13%
8%
1%
15%
1.5%
5%
(;) Combine.
Bring to simmer.
Stir mixture until sugar is dissolved, and reserve
warm.
o Combine, and add to vinegar mixture.
Vacuum seal and steep at room temperat ure
forl2 h.
Strain.
o Whisk into strained vinegar.
Season.
Yields 700 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% (;) Whisk together.
34% Vacuum seal.
20%
20%
13%
0.4%
Infuse refrigerated for at least 1 week.
o Strain.
Use to dress salads or as condiment for raw shellfish.
PASSION FRUIT-WHITE SOY SAUCE VINAIGRETTE Yields 70 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Passion fruit juice 55g 100% (;) Mix together until malic acid is fully dissolved.
White soy sauce 10.5g 19% Refrigerate until use.
Limejuice 7g 13%
Jalapeno, brunoise 3g 5.5%
Malic acid 19
1. 8%
from page 5183
THE MODERN IST KITCHEN
For pickles
(pH 2.3-3.0)
5%-10%
65%-100%
65%-100%
50%-100%
Japanese flavo r combinations often
include multipl e variations on the
umami f1 avorthe me. In this recipe,
different soy sauces and kombu
provide umami notes, which are
balanced by the bright yuzu citrus
flavors.
Many foods have compounds in
them that wi ll react with any acid
you add, which tends to neutralize
t he acid. Chemists call this prop-
erty buffering. A foo d with a hi gh
buffering capacity requires more
acid to be added to reach a given
level of final acidity than one wit h
a low buffering capacity. Because
this capacity varies from food to
food, it is hard to give precise
numbers on how much acid to
add. A pH meter is the best way
to achieve consistency.
23
/
i
CONSTRUCTED RED WINE GLAZE Yields 6Sg
INGREDIENT
Blackberries (fresh)
Blueberries (fresh)
Verjuice (store-bought)
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100 g 100% 0 Vacuum seal.
50 g 50% Cook sous vide in 65 C / 149 OF bath for 1 h.
Cool and puree.
@) Pass through fine sieve.
50 g 50% 0 Blend well with 50 g of berry puree.
Kalamata olive brine (from store-bought olives) 2 g
Tannin powder(Obipektin brand Enocianin-A) 1.5 g
2.0%
1.5%
1.0%
0.5%
0.25%
0.2%
Vacuum seal, and refri gerate.
Tartaric acid 1 g
Fructose
Oak chips, grated
Malic acid
Unsalted butter, cold
Salt
from page 5221
0.5 g
0.25g
0.2g
5g
to taste
5%
Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol
Broth Sauce
Ingredient (scaling)' (scaling) ' Characteristic aromas
aquavit 2%-7% 10%-30% caraway, fenne l
Armagnac 1%- 5% 10%-30% smoke, oak
beer or a le 10%-20% 15%-40 % ma lt, barl ey, bitter
Cognac 2%- 6% 10%-30% smoke, oak, tobacco
gin 1%-5% 10%-30% juniper, pine, cass ia
Madeira 5%-10% 20% pe ppe r, plum
pastis 1%-5% 1%-5% a nise, li corice, suga r
port, red 10%- 20% 15%-40% cherry, be rry, oak
port, white 15%-40% 15%-100% pear, sour grape
sake 5%- 16% 25%-75% li ght pe ppe r, ho neydew
Shaoxing 3%- 15% 10%-30% sweet rice, flora l
sherry, dry 3%-8% 15%-40% almond, hazelnut
sherry, sweet 5%- 10% 5%-20 % che rry, curra nt
vermouth 5%-20% 15%- 40% chamomil e, cardamom
vinjaune 2%-20% 25%-74% walnut, a lmo nd, melon
whiskey 7%-10% 20%-60% smoke, leather, vanilla,
char, peat
wine, red 7%-15% 25%-100% tannin, berry, oak
wine, white 7%-15% 25%-100% app le, pear, flor al
o Warm wine glaze, and whisk in cold butter until fully emulsified. Check
salt and acidi ty; add salt if needed.
Alcohol content
hi gh
hi gh
low
hi gh
hi gh
low to mode rate
moderate
low to mode rate
low to moderate
low
low to mode rate
low to mode rate
moderate
moderate to high
low to moderate
hi gh
low to mode rate
low to mode rate
Example uses
finis hing raw, cold ite ms
glaze, sauce, adding body
a nd subtle flavors
meat sauce, glaze, add ing grain
fl avors a nd bitterness
glaze, sauce, adding body
and subtl e flavors
See
page
347
42
109
marinade and game sauce, adding 109
spice
sauce with dairy or mushrooms,
adding
sweetness a nd fr uit flavors
seafood broth, soup
broth and sauce 212
broth, sauce, adding sweetness 16
fish broth, adding sweetness and a 5197
littl e spice
pork, fish sauce, adding 5167
acidity a nd sweetness
shellfish broth, adding body and 5-31
ta nnins
glaze broth, adding sweetness and
compl exity
fish broth, sauce, e nhancing flavors 5233
broth, sauce, adding acidity and 5113
body
glaze, adding sweet 566
a nd smoky fl avors
glaze, meat sa uce, adding 34
complexit y and fruit fl avors
broth and sauce, adding acidity 76
and complexity
from page 2-317 '(set weight of broth or sauce to 700%)
-
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-
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-
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-
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-

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-
-
-

-
--
-
-.
....
-
..
-
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-
~
~
CLOVE OIL Yields100 g
~
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
~ Grapeseed oil 100g 100% @ Combine and reserve.
~
Clove essential oil 0.5g 0.5%
~
from page 552
~
CINNAMON-SCENTED PEA JUICE Yields210g
...... INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
-
Sweet peas, frozen and @ Whisk together. 200 g 100%
~
juiced
Centrifuge at 27,5009 for 1 h.
-
Cinnamon essential oil 0.05g 0.025%
Strain.
-
(optional)
--
Lime juice to taste o Season broth.
--
--
Salt to taste Refrigerate until use.
-
from page 5275
-
-......,
CONDRIEU BUTTER Yields340 g
--'
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
......,
Condri eu wine 750 g 500% @ Vacuum reduce to 150 g, and reserve.
-
.." Shallots, thinly sliced 60 g 40% Saute until tender, aboutlO min .
-'"
--
Clarified unsalted butter 50g 33%
-'" lychee juice {fresh} 100 g 67% Deglaze shallots.
-
o Remove from heat.
-'
--
Strain.
-"
Condrieu reduction, 150 g 100% Whisk into deglazed shallots.
--
from above
-
-
Unsalted butter, 75g 50% (2) Warm Condrieu butter base, and bl end in cold butter
--
cold and cubed until fu ll y emul sified.
~
Osmanthus vinegar 15 g 10% Season.
---
-
Orange blossom 0.05g 0.03%
--
essenti al oil
~
Rose essential oil 0.05g 0.03%
-

Salt to taste
from page 5172
~
--
"'"""
GLAZED CARROT Yields 120 g
-

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
~
Young carrots {preferably 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
~ Thumbelina}, peeled
o Cook sous vide in 80 C/ 176 OF bat h for40 min.
~
Carotene butter(or 20g 20%
Cool, remove carrots from bag, and reserve.
~
regular butter}
--
-'0\
seepage40
--' Mandarin juice 48g 48% o Vacuum reduce {or reduce over heat} to glaze, about
~
Val encia orange juice 45g 45%
7min.
---
Honey 5g 5%
~
Mandari n essential oil O.l g 0.1% Season glaze.
"""'
Salt to taste Stir in carrots and warm through.
_J
""'"'
from page 5186
-
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---
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-
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---

~
~
~
THE MODERNIST KITCH EN 25
~
~
"
MARINATED SPAGHETTI SQUASH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Spaghetti squash 130g 100%
Orange juice 24g 18.5%
Honey vinegar 11 g 8.5%
Extra virgin olive oil 8g 6.2%
Sichuan peppercorns, 2 g 1.5%
coarsely ground
Orange zest, finely grated 0.5g 0.4%
Acetaldehyde 0.01 5 g 0.01%
Salt to taste
from page 5149
PROCEDURE
o Steam until tender, about 15 min.
o Shred strands while still hot.
Cool and reserve refri gerated.
o Combine to make dressi ng.
Marinate squas h in dressing forl0 min.
Yi e lds150 g
HOW TO WASH CITRUS OIL EXTRACTING FLAVOR WITH ALCOHOL
o Combine the ingredi ents in a separatory funne l with the stopcock
closed. Use 10 parts essenti al oil , 40 parts distill ed water, and 50
parts pure alcohol (eit he r ethanol or Everclear), or use a high-proof
vodka that has been run through a water fi lte r a few times in pl ace of
both the water and the ethanol.
o Stopper the funne l and shake until the mixture becomes cloudy.
Let stand undisturbed until the mi xt ure separates. The oi l ri ses to the
to p. When the liquid is cl ear- afte r a day or even a week of resting-
the essence is ready. Longer time will yield a more inte nse extraction.
o Remove the stopper, open the stopcock, and drain the flavored
waterthrough a coffee filter. The filter wil l remove any waxes and
impuriti es. Close the stopcock just before the oil starts to emerge.
o Select and prepare ingredi ent . The tabl e Best Bets for Extracts on the next
page suggests a number of good options.
o Vacuum seal ingredi ent wit h neutral vodka. Quantities indicated in the table
are proportional to the weight of the vodka. For exampl e, use 25 g of chili for
everyl00 g of a lcohol.
Infuse. Recommended in fusing temperatures and times are li sted in the
table. Some preparations benefi t from cooking; for others, infusion at
refrigerator temperatures does a better job of capturing their deli cate flavors.
o Sieve. Reseal, and refri gerate until needed.
Add recommended concentrat ion of alcohol extract to broth or sauce. For
exampl e add 4 g of brown butter extract for eve ry 100 g of broth or sauce.
Adding more than 5% wi ll make the alcohol fl avor pe rceptibl e.
BROWN BUTTER FUMET Yields150g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Brown fish stock 200 g
see page 6
Sake 150g
Vermouth (dry) 50g
Rice vinegar 109
Brown butter extract 8 g
see page 4213
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.3g
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste
from page 5158
HAZElNUT OIL EXTRACT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Roasted hazelnut oil 300g
see page 41 (or store-bought)
Vodka 300g
from page 2321
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Simmer together until reduced to 200 g.
o Cool.
75%
25%
5%
4%
0.15%
Whisk in.
o Season and serve, or refrigerate unti l use.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
100%
o Combine in separatoryfunne l.
o Shake vi gorously for 2 min.
All ow oil and alcohol to separate overnight.
o Decant alcohol from bottom offunnel.
Yields300 g
Use hazelnut oil - infused alcohol to season broths or sauces without adding fat.
- ...
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-
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Best Bets for Extracts
Infuse
Example
Ingredient (scaling )* (OC) (OF) (h) concentration** Example use
bay leaf, fresh 1% 60 140 4 5% fish sauce, broth
brown butter, melted 100% 65 149 5 4% vegetable broth
butter, melted 100% 65 149 3 4% popcorn broth
chili (dry), crushed 25% refrigerate 24 2% Sichuan-style broth
cinnamon stick, crushed 5% 60 140 4 3%- 4% meat sauce
citrus zest, finely grated 27% 50 122 3 3% fish sauce, broth
coffee bean, ground 20% refrigerate 12 3% meat sauce, red-eye gravy
coriander seed, crushed 20% 60 140 3 5% seafood sauce
fennel seed 5% 3 37 24 3%-4% pork broth, Parmesan jus
ginger, thinly sliced 25% 60 140 4 3% Chinese broth
roasted hazelnut oil 100% 65 149 3 8% root vegetable broth
nutmeg, grated 7% refrigerate 24 2%-3% gui nea fowl consomme
rosemary 10% refrige rate 24 1.5%-2.5% la mb broth, lamb jus
saffron threads 1% refrigerate 24 0.6% cream sauce
star anise, crushed 5% 60 140 4 4% oxtail consomme
thyme leaf 10% 60 140 4 3%-4% beurre blanc
vanilla bean, spl it 5% refrigerate 24 3% sauce or broth of foie gras
or lean fish
from page 2-326 *(set weight of vodka to 700%) **(set weight of broth or sauce to 700%)
HOUSE BITTERS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Vodka 500g
Kumquat, thinly sli ced 40g
Burdock root 12g
Vanilla beans, halved 12g
Orange zest 10 9
Gentian flowers 6g
Cinnamon 5g
Cloves 3g
Heather tips 2g
Anise seeds 1.5 g
from page 2327
FINES HERBS EXTRACT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Vodka 100g
Chervil, thinly sliced 33 g
Chives 33 g
Parsley leaves, whole 33 g
Tarragon, crushed 15g
from page 2327
SCALING
100%
8%
2.4%
2.4%
2%
1.2%
1%
0.6%
0.4%
0.3%
SCALING
100%
33%
33%
33%
15%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
o Seal in glass bottl e with airtight lid.
Shake bottl e twi ce a week for 4 wk.
Yields500 g
13) Pour mi xture through fine sieve into sterili zed bottle.
PROCEDURE
CD Combine and vacuum seal.
o Refrigerate for 24 h to steep.
Strain through fine filter.
Yields100 g
13) Add 2%-5% of extract to season broth or sall ce, or
reseal and refri gerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
-
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See page
46
42,297
14
5101
46
27
INfUSING fLAVOR INTO A fAT
@ Wash and dry all produce thoroughly to prevent contamination of the fat.
(3) Vacuum seal ingredient with fat. The table Best Bets for Infused Fats
below lists many good combinations. Quantities are proportional to the
weight ofthe fat. When making coffee butter, for example, add 55 g of
coffee beans for every 100 g of butter.
Cook sous vide to infuse the fat. Recommended temperatures and times
are given in the table.
Best Bets for Infused Fats
o Place food in bag into an ultrasonic bath for15 min to 1 h (optional).
Ultrasonic treatment enhances extraction and should be done while the
food is still hot. Use the same bath temperature used for infusion or the
highest setti ng possibl e. Or use a sous vide bath that has ultrasonic
capability to do the infusion.
Si eve, and then refrigerate. Do not sieve truffle or other infusions in which
the flavorful fl ecks are desirabl e.
This recipe works with crab, crawfish, shrimp, prawn,
and lobster of all varieties. It is a culinary classic that
dates to traditional French cuisine.
Cook so us vide,
or infuse cold
Ingredient (scali ng)* Fat
(oc) (0 F) (h)
Example use See page
cured ham, thinly sliced 40% peanut oil 70 158 8 add to XO sauce, season fresh melon
dried chili, crushed 3% sunflower oil 70 158 24 poach fish, season sautee d broccoli next page
cocoa nib, crushed 40% sunflowe r oil 65 149 6 garnish sashimi
coffee beans, whole 55% unsalted 70 158 12 ga rni sh sea urchin, she llfish, lemon risotto 350
butter
garlic, thinly sliced 50% olive oil 90 194 4 garnish pizza, roasted potatoes 5211
fresh ginger, thinly sliced 45% sunflower oil puree until smooth garni sh steamed fish
70 158 3
Iberico ham fat, thinly 75% olive oil 90 194 20 min serve warm, blend into ham broth, garnish
sliced grilled peaches or watermelon
langoustine (or other 125% unsa lted 88 154 5 poach shellfish, blend into shellfish sauces next page
shellfish) shell, crushed to butter
a fine paste and roasted
thyme leaves 20% grapeseed oil 55 131 45 min season cooked fish and she llfi sh, finish lemon
risotto
lemon zest, finely grated 45% grapeseed oil 60 140 2 garnish salads a nd fish
makrud (kaffir) lime leaf, 15% grapeseed oil 3 37 24 drizzle over gri ll ed fish, brush on pork cutlets next page
sliced
fresh mint, thinly sliced 16% olive oil 80 176 1 mix into vinaigrette
molasses 50% unsalted 80 176 20 min fry sweetbreads or foie gras next page
adapted from Michel Bras butter
refrigerate for 4 d
after cooking
dry porcini 50% sunflower oil 70 158 1 blend into game broth
rosemary 10% olive oil 80 176 1 drizzle over roast lamb
rose petal, untreated 80% sweet apricot 55 131 1Y-t make salad dressing, beurre blanc for fish
oil
truffle, minced 30% unsalted 55 131 1 garnish poached scallops or artichokes
butter
ultrasonic 15 min
bath
from page 2-329
*(setweightoffatto 700%)
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SHELLFISH BUTTER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Crustacean heads, bodies, and shell s, 500 g
finely crushed or ground
Clarified unsalted butter 400 g
from page 2329
SOUS VIDE LEMON HERB OIL
INGREDIENT
Crapeseed oil
Le mongrass, thinly sli ced
Lemon thyme leaves
lemon balm leaves
Makrud (kaffirl lime leaves
from page 2-330
QUANTITY
400 g
80g
50g
20g
20g
SCALING
100%
80%
SCALING
100%
20%
12.5%
5%
5%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
o Cook so us vide in 88 C / 190 OF bath fo r 5 h.
Remove from bag, and cool at room temperat ure.
o Refrigerate for 12 h.
Heat mixture to melt.
Strain; discard heads.
(2) Decant butter.
Vacuum seal, and refri gerate unt il use.
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
o Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 60 C/ 140 OF bath for1 '/> h.
o Chill and refri gerate for 12 h.
Strain.
Refri gerate until use.
SPICED CHILI OIL ADAPTED FROM JEAN -GEORGES VONGER I CHTEN
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oi l 1 kg 100% CD Vacuum seal toget he r.
Chipotle chili es, thinly sli ced 180 g 18% 0 Cook sous vide in 70 c / 158 OF bath fo r 24 h.
Cori ander seeds, toas ted and crushed 30 g 3% Cool and refrige rate fo r1 2 h.
Mace, crushed 30 g 3% o Strain.
Dry red chilies, crushed 30 g 3% Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Star anise, crushed 30 g 3%
Cinnamon sticks, toasted and crushed 20 g 2%
Fennel seeds, toasted and crushed 12g 1.2%
from page 2330
MOLASSES BUTTER ADA PTED FROM MI C HEL BRAS
INGREDIENT
Unsalted butter, melted
Mol asses
QUANTITY
200g
100 g
SCALI NG
200%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD 81end together.
o Transfer mi xture to mason jar, and seal.
Place sealed mason jar in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 30 min.
o Remove jarfrom bath, and ta ke off li d.
Yields400 g
Yi elds400 g
Yi elds 1 kg
Yi elds200 g
Rest in jar at room temperature for30 min to a ll ow butter and molasses to separate .
Pour butter into sealable container, and discard molasses.
(2) Seal, and refri ge rate infused butte r for 4 d.
Decant butter, and refrigerate for use.
from page 2331
TH E MODERNIST KITCHEN 29
CURRY OIL ADAPTED FROM THOMAS KELLER
Yields1 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Coriander seeds, 90g 9%
toasted and crushed
Cinnamon stick, crushed 35 g 3.S%
Canolaoi l 1 kg 100%
or other neutral oil
Chaat masala 140g 14%
see pageSO
Cayenne pepper 30g 3%
Mace 15g 1.5%
from page 2331
CRAB OIL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Fryillgoil 400g 200%
Crab shell and liver 200g 100%
from page 5190
MALAYSIAN AROMATIC OIL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Grapeseed oi l 350 g 100%
Tomatoes, peeled and 140g 40%
seeded
Red shall ots, thin ly sliced 75 g 21 .5%
Sweet onions, sliced 65 g 19%
Sichuan chilies, seeded 40g 11. 5%
and crushed
Garlic, pounded to paste
109 3%
Shrimp paste (belacan) 109 3%
Ginger, grated 7.5 g 2%
Red bird's eye chili, 2.5 g 0.7%
th i n Iy sliced
fro m page 5 1 6 8
PROCEDURE
0) Toast separately in small pans until just fragrant.
Remove from heat.
Blend fu ll y with toasted spices.
@) Vacuumseal.
Cook so us vide in 90 C/ 194 OF bath forl h.
@ Refr igerate for 12 h.
o Strain.
Repackage, and refrigerate until use.
Yields400 g
PROCEDURE
0) Deep-fry crab parts in 175 C / 350 of oil for1 h to
infuse.
Strain through fine sieve.
Cool, and reserve in dry place.
Yields500g
PROCEDURE
0) Combin e, and simmer until oi l is deep red and heavily
saturated with aromatics, about45 min.
Cool.
Vacuum seal.
@) Refrigerate for 12 h to finish infusion.
Strain through fine sieve.
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Additives to Preserve the Color and Flavor of Fresh Juice
Function Ingredient
inhibits ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
browning,
citric acid
preserves color
malic acid
tartaric acid
oxalic acid
honey
sodium benzoate
sodium metabisulfite
(Campden tablets)
restores or fresh juice
preserves flavor
essential oil
alpha tocopherol (vitamin E)
from page 2339
MEYER LEMONADE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Meyer lemon juice 300g 100%
Fructose 30g 10%
Citric acid 1.Sg 0.5%
Gum arabic Sg 1. 7%
Water 2g 1%
Lemon essential oil 0.1 2g 0.04%
(seven drops)
from page 2340
MELON WATER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Melonjuice 100 g 100%
(from 200 g of
melon)
Fructose 5g 5%
Lime juice 2.Sg 2.5%
Tartaric acid O.Sg 0.5%
Salt to taste
from page 2340
(scaling) Note
0.1%-0.3% works best with citric acid
0.5%-2.0% these fruit acids interfere with browning enzymes directly and by lowering
pH; they work best in conjunction with asco rbic acid
10% ormore high concentrations have preservative effects
0.05%-0.1% use only for foods with a pH $ 4.5; maximum permitted quantity is 0.1%;
slows both browning and bacterial and fungal growth
0.01%-0.05% most effective at 0.03%; unpl easant flavor above 0.05%
5%-10% add just-squeezed jui ce before serving to produce fresh volati le aromatics
that refresh the flavor in some juices
0.001%-1% add a few drops of the appropriate citrus essential oil just before serving to
re pl e nish natural oils from the peel and restore fresh flavor
0.025%- antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E help protect aromas from the
0.05% ravages of oxidation
Yields325g
PROCEDURE
o Centrifuge at 27,5009 for1 h.
o Decant jui ce and strain through fine sieve.
Whisk into clarifi ed juice unt il dissolved and
reserve.
o Blend together until fu ll y emulsified.
Add 1.5 g of emul sion to sweetened juice.
o Hand-blend until smooth.
o Strain through fine sieve.
Chill before serving.
PROCEDURE
o Whisk together and season to taste.
(3) Centrifuge at 27,5009 for 1 h.
Decant only clear juice.
o Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
Yields100 g
Always add the essential oi l just
before serving. The acidity of the
juice will destroy the essence. This
is why the best quality citrus oils are
made by removing the peel before
cold pressing so there is no chance
for the acidic fruit juice to damage
the peel oil.
The Aavorof melon is created by
enzymatic reactions during juicing.
The fresh flavor can be reinvigo-
rated by adding a small amount of
fresh melon juice to the batch just
before to serving.
31

PEN SHELL CLAM, PLUOT, MYOGA, SCALLOP MOCHI Yields 650g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pluots (or red plums) 400g
Mali caci d 2g
White soy sauce to t aste
Pen shell clams, shucked 200g
200%
1%
100%
@ Jui ce.
o Clarify jui ce using preferred method.
Measure 200 g.
o Season juice.
Refrigerate.
Measure and refrigerate.
Scallop mochi 60 g (four pieces, o Measure and reserve individually.
see page345
15 g each)
Freeze-dried scall op 28g
powde r
(opt ional, see page 58)
Fryingoil as needed
Gingeroi l 20g
see page20
Salt to taste
Dinosaur Pluot (or red 20g
plum), thinl y sli ced
Myoga, fine julienne 12g
from page 5202
This process works equall y well for
blueberries, raspberries, and
strawberri es.
14%
10%
10 %
6%
Dust pen shell clams with scallop powder, if using, a nd then sear in oil over hi gh heat for 1 min.
Season, and allow to rest at room temperature.
@ Deep-fry scallop mochi in 190 C / 375 OF oi l un ti l puffed, about 2 min, and then optionall y,
season with scall op powde r.
@ Toss pluot and myoga with small amount of seasoned pluotjuice.
@ Arrange pen shell clams and pluot slices on each plate.
@ Garnish with scallop mochi.
@ Pour addit ional pluot juice at table.
SOUS VIDE BERRY JUICE Yields50g
INGREDIENT
Blackberri es (fresh)
Sugar
Isomalt
from page 2340
QUANTITY
100 g
7g
5g
SCALING
100%
7%
5%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine.
o Vacuum seal sweetened berry mixture.
Cook sous vide in 65 C / 149 OF bath for1 h.
o Remove from bag, and cool at room
temperature.
Strain through fine sieve; discard pulp.
Chill before serving.
STRAWBERRY CONSOMME Yi elds265 g
INGREDIENT
Strawberry juice
Fructose
Malic acid
from page 5278
QUANTITY
250g
(from about
400g
strawberries)
15.5 g
1.25 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% @ Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h.
6% 0 Season, and refrigerate unt il use.
0.5%
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GREEN ASPARAGUS AND MORELS WITH ASPARAGUS JUS Yields 650 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM JE AN-GEORGES VONGER I CHTEN
.... INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
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Pencil green asparagus, unpeeled 200g
Asparagus juice, from above 50 g
Ascorbic acid 0.4 g
Jumbo green asparagus, stalks peeled 250 g
(eight stalks)
Clarified unsalted butter see page 4213 25g
Jumbo green asparagus, stalks peeled 250g
(eight stalks)
Clarified unsalted butter 25g
Morels, thoroughly washed 120g
Unsalted butter 50g
Shallot, finely minced 30g
Vin jaune (or Fino sherry) 25g
Heavy cream 15g
Instant hollandaise 80g
see page305
Asparagus puree 50g
see page 55
Unsalted butter 109
Limejuice to taste
Salt to taste
Flaky sea salt to taste
Chive blossoms (or finely minced chives) 10 g
from page 2341
STRAWBERRY GAZPACHO
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Strawberries, sliced 560 g
Cucumber, peeled, 140g
seeded, and sliced
Red bell pepper, steamed forlO min, 115g
peeled, and thinly sliced
Sweet onions, thinly sliced l15g
Extra virgin olive oil 50g
White balsamic vinegar 20g
Balsamic vinegar 13g
Garlic clove, crushed 2g
Strawberry consomme 65g
see page 32
Limej ui ce 15g
White balsamic vinegar 4g
Malicacid 2g
Black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5278
80%
20%
0.16%
(O.8%)*
100%
10%
100%
10%
48%
20%
12%
10%
6%
32%
20%
4%
CD Juice with Champion-style juicer.
o Measure 50 g for recipe.
Whisk ascorbic acid immediately into fresh juice to prevent browning.
o Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate .
Saute for 3 min on all sides until just tender and golden.
o Remove from heat, and reserve.
Vacuum seal.
Cook so us vide in 85 C/ 185 OF bath for12 min, immediately remove from bag,
and reserve.
@ Meanwhile, sweat together for 5 min until tender and just cooked through.
@ Add to morels, and cook for 3 min.
@ Warm to 65 C/ 149 OF.
@ Dispense from siphon, and fo ld into morels.
@ Set aside, and keep warm.
@ Warm prepared asparagus juice over medium heat.
@ Whisk in puree .
@ Whisk into warm thickened jus until fully emulsifi ed.
@ Season jus.
@ Reheat reserved asparagus stalks.
@ Season.
@ Place two so us vide cooked stalks and two pan fried stalks in center.
4% @ Garnish with warm morels and blossoms.
@ Pour jus around plates at table.
*(% of total weight of asparagus juice)
SCALING
100%
25%
20.5%
20.5%
9%
3.5%
2.5%
0.5%
12%
2.7%
0.7%
0.4%
Yields850 g
PROCEDURE
CD Pre pare ingredients as noted, blanching onions if
needed, to remove sulfurous notes.
o Vacuum sea l together.
Macerate in refrigerator for12 h.
o Blend to fine puree.
Pass gazpacho through fine sieve.
Add to gazpacho.
o Serve, or vacuu m seal and refrigerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
Preparing gazpacho in
advance? Create iJ 10
minute flavor with this
trick from Heston
Blumenthal. At the last
minute, juice a small
amount of the principle
ingredient-whether red
cabbage, tomatoes, or
strawberries-then add it
to the existing gazpacho.
Enzymes already present
in the soup attack com-
ponents of the added
juice and rapidly regener-
ate some of the aromas
lost over time. The fresh
flavor comes right back.
33
MAKINGJUS
Best Bets for Jus
Recipe
beef juice
beef jus
chicken juice
brown chicken jus
mushroom jus
mussel jus
pork and Banyuls
roastingjus
rare beef jus
rare salmon jus
shellfish jus
vegetable jus
from page 2344
JUS DE LA PRESSE
INGREDIENT
Lobster heads
Clarifi ed unsalted butter
White wine (dry)
Lobster stock
see page 6
Cognac
Lobster roe
Unsalted butter
Olive oil
Lemonjuice
Salt
from page 2347
liquid (scaling) Protein (scaling) Aromatic
not applicable ground beef 100% not applicable
brown beef stock 100% ground beef 35% carrot, thinly sl iced
red wi ne 30% oxtail, jointed 15% onion, thinly sli ced
not applicable ground chicken 100% not applicable
brown chicken stock 100% ground chicken wing 15% shallot, thinly sliced
chicken juice (from 40% chicken foot 8% dried morel
above)
fino sherry 20% thyme
mushroom stock 100% not applicable crimini mushroom, thinly
sliced
fino sherry 20% shallot, thinly sliced
white port 10% wh ite miso
tamari 1% thyme
white wine 10% mussels 100% shall ot
bay leaf
brown pork stock 100% ground pork shoulder 75% sweet onion, thinly sli ced
Banyuls wine 25% ground pork trotter skin 10% carrot, thinly sli ced
and meat
water 5% beef, cubed 100% not appli cable
water 5% salmon fillet, cubed 100% not appli cable
shell fish stock 40% shellfish heads 100% tarragon extract
white wine 38% white pepper
vermouth 13%
onion juice, clarified 100% not applicable not applicable
carrot juice, clarified 80%
celery juice, clarified 55%
leek juice, clarified 30%
INSP IR ED BY ALA IN DUCASSE
QUANTITY
600g
(about four heads)
60g
200g
120g
30g
BOg
BOg
35g
to taste
to taste
SCALING
100%
10%
33%
20%
5%
13%
13%
6%
PROCEDURE
@ Saute until shells are golden and very aromatic, aboutlO min.
(3) Baste constantly with butter to cook through.
Place heads in basket of wine press.
@ Extract juices by crushi ng shell s completely with wine press.
o Combine with extracted lobster juices.
@ Reduce lobster juice by half.
(2) Blend with warm reduction until fu ll y emulsified.
Season.
IInl l lt.H ~ . K I T r ~ f N MANIIAI
(scaling)
12%
10%
20%
5.0%
0.1%
75%
20%
7.0%
0.1%
10%
0.01%
8%
7%
1.5%
to taste
Yields350 g
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Method (bar) (psi) (oC) (OF) (h) See page
-
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cook sous vide
pressure cook
cook so us vide
brown meat and bones,
pressure cook
pressure cook
90 194 1Y2 40
15 1Y2
90 194
15
15 25 37
min
.;::-----------------------------------------------------------------
cook sous vide 100 212 4 min 294
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brown meat and bones,
pressure cook
cook so us vide
cook so us vide
cook so us vide
cook so us vide
15
53 127 4
50 122 1
88 190 1Y2
85 185 3
517
40
5161
CD Select a recipe from Best Bets for Jus.
(3) If cooki ng sous vide, vacuum seal the liquids, proteins, and
aromatics together. Otherwise combine ingredi ents in a
pressure cooker. Quant ities are proportional to whichever
ingredient (usuall y the protein or the stock) is set to 100%. For
example, use 38 g of wine and 13 g'ofvermouth for every100 g
of heads when making shellfish jus.
Cook. Recommended cooking methods, temperatures, and
times are indi cated in the table. Press ures given are gauge
pressures.
@) Press, strain, or sieve.
Season. For seasoning options, see Best Bets for Lowering pH on
page 22, Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers on
page 21, and Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol on
page 24.
THE MODERN I ST KITCHEN
-
35
ROOT VEGETABLE JUS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Salmon bell y, trimmed 200 g 200% CD Vacuum seal.
Turnip juice 270g 270%
(from400g
turnips)
Rutabaga juice 115 g 115%
(from 300 g
rutabagas)
Cele ry root juice 75g 75%
(from 150 g celery
root)
Sweet oni on juice 50g 50%
(from 120 g onions)
Leekjui ce 30g 30%
(from 90 g leeks)
Parsnip juice 15g 15%
(from 65g
parsnips)
Strained salmon juice, 100 g 100%
from above
Cold-smoked butter 70g 70%
see page 244
Limejuice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5163
SOUS VIDE VEGETABLE JUS
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY
Yellow oni ons, thinly sliced 400 g
Carrot, peeled and 270 g
thinl y sli ced
Water 160 g
Celery, peeled and 120 g
thinly sli ced
Leek, white only, 120g
thinly sl iced (fro m 275 g peeled leeks)
Unsalted butter, cubed
Lemonjuice
Salt
from page 2347
CLAMjUICE
INGREDI ENT
Clams, rinsed and
soaked to remove sand
Shall ots, minced
Thyme
Bay leaf
from page 5230
36
45g
to taste
to taste
QUANTITY
475g
109
0.3 g
0.1 g
SCALING
100%
2%
0.06%
0.02%
o Cook so us vide in 43 C / 1 09 OF bath for 1 h.
Strain through fine sieve, and measure 100 g of salmon juice.
o Refrigerate.
Vacuum seal together.
@) Cook sous vide in 85 C/ 185 OF bath for 3 h.
(2) Strain through fi ne sieve.
Reduce to 200 g.
Stir into vegetable jui ce reduction.
@ Blend in smoked butter until fully emulsified.
@ Season with li me juice and salt.
SCALING
100%
67.5%
40%
30%
30%
11 %
PROCEDURE
CD Prepare vegetables as noted.
o Combine, and vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 3 h.
o Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
To serve, heat stock to 85 C / 185 OF.
@) Blend in butter unti l fu ll y emul sified.
(2) Season.
Yields 175 g
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
o Vacuum seal.
Steam or boil for 3 min until clams have just re leased
the ir jui ces.
o Cool.
Strain juices and reserve. Soli ds can also be reserved
for another use.
VOLUME 6 . KI TCHEN MANUAL
Yields 350 g
Yields 750 g
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LAMB GARLIC JUS IN AJAR
INGREDIENT
lamb trim, ground
Frying oil
Carrots, peeled and thinly
sliced
Shallots, thinly sl iced
Sweet onions, thinly sli ced
Fennel, thinly sli ced
QUANTITY
1 kg
90 g
300 g
200g
150 g
125 g
Garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 50 g
Red bell pepper, thinly sliced SO g
Tomato paste
Star anise, crushed
Water
White wi ne
Thyme
Bay leaf
lemon juice
Salt
from page 2348
MUSHROOM JUS
INGREDIENT
Crimini mushrooms,
thinly sliced
Shallots, thinly sliced
Clarifi ed unsalted butter
Mushroom stock
see page 6
Fino sherry
White port (dry)
Mushroom jus, from above
Whitemiso
Tamari soy sauce
Thyme
Konjacgum
Salt
Sherry vinegar
from page 2348
25g
3g
SOOg
200 g
5g
2g
to taste
to taste
QUANTITY
l S0 g
40g
2Sg
200g
40g
20g
2S0g
14 g
2g
2g
O.7Sg
to taste
to taste
SOUS VIDE MUSSELjUICE
INGREDIENT
Mussels, rinsed thoroughly
with beards removed
from page 2-346
QUANTITY
lkg
SCALING
100%
9%
30%
20%
15%
12.5%
5%
5%
2.5%
0.3%
50%
20%
PROCEDURE
CD Pan fry ground lamb unt il golde n.
(3) Reserve meat and 10 g of rendered fat.
Prepare vegetables as noted.
@ Saute together in saucepan with reserved lamb fat, unti l tender.
Add to vegetables, and in crease heat to high.
Stir mixture continuously until golden brown and fragrant, about3 min.
(2) Deglaze pot, and stir in browned meat.
Re move from heat.
Yields300 g
0. 5% Divide mixture equall y between two mason jars.
0. 2%
SCALING
60%
16%
10%
80%
16%
8%
100%
5.6%
0.8%
0.8%
0.3%
SCALING
100%
@ Seal jars, and place on rack in pressure cooke r.
@ Fill cooker with water to cover bottom 2.5 cm / 1 in of jars .
@ Press ure-cook at gauge press ure of 1 bar / 15 psi for lY2 h .
@ Remove jars from cooker, re move lids, a nd cool jus to room temperature.
@ Strain stock.
@ Reduce strained stock unti l th ickened, about 12 min, and season.
Yields270 g
PROCEDURE
CD Saute mushrooms and shallots together in butter until deep golde n brown, abo ut
12 min.
(3) Combine wit h cooked mushroom mi xt ure in press ure cooke r.
Pressure-cook at gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi for 25 min.
@ Strai n through fine sieve, and discard solids.
Measure 250 g of mushroom jus.
Bl end together until dissolved.
(2) Strain.
Season.
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum sea l in one eve n layer.
(3) Steam for 4 min.
Shock in ice-water bat h.
Yields 100 g
@ Shuck, and reserve meat fo r another use.
Strain rendered mussel juices fro m bag and
she ll s.
Vacuum seal and refri gerate until use.
THE MOD ERN I ST KITCHEN
Mussel jui ce is classica ll y used to
accentuate the flavor of seafood
broths and sauces. This sous vide
method extracts the juices from
the mussels without overcooking
them so the meat can be used as
a garnish for cooked fish (see page
5151). Inspect mussels carefully and
discard any dead or sandy shellfish.
These can spoil the juice.
37
TOASTED OAT JUS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pigeon carcass 650g
Pigeon wings 200g
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300g
Grapeseed oil 45g
Garlic, thinly sliced 109
Brown pigeon stock 750g
see page 6
Red wine (dry) 300g
Rendered foie gras fat 65g
Cognac 50g
Steel-cut oats, rinsed to 30g
remove surface starch
Sherry vinegar 20g
Sugar 13g
Black peppercorns 2g
Reduced oat jus, 250g
from above
Pancetta 25g
Cognac 7.5g
Sherry vinegar 5g
Salt 2.5g
Black peppercorns 0.25g
from page 5133
BANYULS GLAZE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Ground pork 2.25 kg
Pork trotter, bone in, 500g
finely ground
Frying oil 225g
Sweet onions, peeled SOOg
and thinly sliced
Carrots peeled, 450g
thinly sliced
Water 1.2 kg
Brown pork stock 400g
see page 6
Banyuls wine (or other 350g
semisweet red wine)
Bay leaf (fresh) 4.5g
Banyulsvinegadorother 50 g
semisweet red vinegar)
Unsalted butter 50 g
Salt to taste
from page 519
SCALING PROCEDURE
87%
27%
40%
6%
1.3%
100%
40%
8.7%
6.7%
4%
2.7%
1. 7%
0.25%
100%
10%
3%
2%
1%
0.1%
o Roast in 175 C / 350 OF oven until golden, about 35 min.
(3) Saute onions until translucent.
Add garlic, and saute for 5 min.
o Combine wit h roasted carcass, wings, a nd onion mi xture.
Bring mixture to simmer.
@) Skim surface.
o Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 1'/2 h.
Strain, and reduce to 250 g.
Combine.
@ Simmer for 25 min.
@ Season.
@ Strain through fine sieve, and serve or refrigerate until use.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Coat meats with oil.
Yields250g
Yields300g
22% (3) Roast in 190 c / 375 OF oven until golden brown, stirri ng frequently to ensure even browning.
Remove browned meat from pan, reserving fat.
10%
22% 0 Sweat vegetables in pressure cooker with reserved fat until tender.
20%
50%
18%
16%
0.2%
2%
2%
Deglaze vegetables.
@) Add with browned meatto vegetables in cooker.
o Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl .4 bar / 21 psi forlY2 h.
Cool and strain.
Reduce to glaze.
@ Blend in butter and vinegar until fu ll y e mulsified.
@ Season.
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TACINE BASE Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
-
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 100 g 100% @ Saute onions until translucent.
-
Neutral oil 25g 25%
Brown chicken stock 325 g 325% o Add to onions, and bring mixture to simmer.
-
see page 6
Reduce by half, about 20 min.
.-;;;;;.
Ginger juice 21 g 21%
Water
10 9
10%
-
Garli c, thinly sliced 9g 9%
-
Lemonjuice 9g 9%
-
Clear honey 5g 5%
---
Salt 3.5 g 3.5%
-
Cinnamon, fres hly ground 1 g 1%
~
-
Preserved lemon peel, 8.5g 8.5% o Whisk into reduction and adjust seasoning.
-
brunoi se
Serve or cool, a c u ~ m seal, and refrigerate until use.
-
see page 174
-
Pickled fig, small dice 6g 6%
..,.,.
see page 177
-
-
Saffron threads 1 g 1%
--
from page 5137
......
-......
SQUASH GLAZE Yi elds 150 g
-......
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
-
Butternutsquash jui ce 100g 17% @ Combine.
......
(from400g
o Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
-......
squash)
Strain through fine sieve to clarify .
---
Sweet onion juice 100g 17%
...... (from 200 g
-
onions)
......
Carrot juice 50 g 8.5%
-- ......
(from 200 g
-
carrots)
-
White veal stock 600g 100% o Combine wit h strained vegetable juice, and blend
---
see page 6
until smooth.
-
--' Shank cookingjuices 100 g 17%
Reduce to 150 g.
~
see page 276
-
Tomato confit 7g 1.2%
...... see page 179
~
Blend in butter and oil until fully emulsifi ed. Unsalted butter, cubed 25g 4%
......
-
Ext ra virgin olive oil 15 g 2.5%
-
Lemonjuice to taste o Season glaze.
-......
Salt to taste
-
from page 563
~
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SOUS VIDE PRAWN JUS Yields250 g
-
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE INGREDIENT
--
Prawn heads 400g 100% @ Combine.
~
Shellfish stock 160 g 40% o Gri nd coarsely in food processor.
~
see page 6
Vacuum seal.
--
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Vermouth (dry) 80g 20%
o Cook sous vide in 88 C/ 190 OF bath forlY2 h.
-
Strain through fine sieve.
-'"
-
Tarragon extract 6g 1.5% Whiskin.
...-
see page 27
--
Salt to taste o Season.
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from page 2347
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THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 39
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Rare beef jus created t his way
can be used for many purposes.
To ugher meats may require more
time to release their jui ce.
This process can be appli ed to all
typ'es of meats. Using the resu lting
jp'ice, although more costly than
water, is a more fl avorful alternative
than using water to make broths
and sauces.
SOUS VIDE RARE BEEF JUS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beef(preferablya tough cut) 1 kg
Bromelain powder (optional, 2 g
NOW brand)
Water 50 g
Salt
Sherry vinegar
from page 2349
to taste
to taste
SOUS VIDE BEEF JUICE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
SCALING
100%
0.2%
5%
Yields350g
PROCEDURE
@ Cut into 1 cm / 'h in cubes.
(3) Combine meat and bromelain (optional)
Cook sous vide in 53 c / 12B OF bath for 4 h.
@) Strain rende red juices through fin e sieve, and
measure 300 g of juice.
Combine with jui ce.
Season.
o Vacuum seal, and refrige rate. Do not reheat
above 53 C / 127 of, or jus wi ll coagulate.
Yields300g
SCALING PROCEDURE
Ground lean beef 1 kg 100% @ Vacuum seal.
from page 2-349
(3) Cook sous vide in 90 C / 194 OF bath forlY, h.
Strai n juice, and discard meat.
@) Cool juice compl etely.
Vacuum seal, an d refrigerate until us e.
CENTRIFUGED CAROTENE BUTTER Yields 1.4 kg
INGREDIENT
Carrot juice
see page 2336
Unsalted butter, cubed
from page 2365
QUANTITY SCALING
2.2 kg 100%
(from 3.5 kg of
carrots)
1.4kg 64%
PROCEDURE
@ Bring1.4 kg of carrot jui ce to simmer.
(3) Blend in butter, and simme r for 30 mi n.
Blend in re maining 800 g of carrot jui ce.
@) Di vide mixture equally (check weight) among centrifuge bottles.
Centri fuge bottl es at 27,500g for 1 h.
Refrigerate bottles until butterfat has solidifi ed, about 2 h.
o Pierce congealed butterfat on top of each bottle.
Pour out clarified carrot juice, and set as ide for anothe r use.
Warm bottles in water bath, or microwave to melt butter.
@ Decant clear, melted butter, and discard accumulated solids from bottoms of bottles.
@ Vacuumseal and refrigerate until use.
TOMATO WATER
Yields 1.2 kg
Vacuum filters, wine filters, and
enzyme clarificatio n are good
alternatives to centrifugingwhen
making tomato water.
INGREDIENT
Tomatoes, peeled, seeded,
and chopped
Salt
from page 2366
QUANTITY
2 kg
to taste
SCALING
100%
PROCEDURE
@ Process with Champion-style juicer.
(3) Measure evenly among centrifuge bottl es.
Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h, and decant.
o Season jui ce, and refri gerate until us e.
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CENTRIFUGED PEA JUICE
INGREDIENT
Frozen sweet peas, thawed
Water
from page 2367
QUANTITY SCALING
700g
70g
100%
10%
Yields 325 g
PROCEDURE
@ Blend to fine puree.
(3) Divide evenl y among centrifuge bottl es, ensuring filled bottles are of equal weight.
Centrifuge bottles at 27,500g for1 h.
@) Decant juice, and filter, to obtain about 325 g.
Skim off and reserve layer of surface fat, about 50 g.
CENTRIFUGED ROASTED-HAZELNUT OIL Yields150 g
.... I NSPIRED BY NILS NOREN AND DAVE ARNOLD
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INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Hazelnuts 400 g 100% @ Roast in 160 c / 325 OF oven for 25 min.
(3) Transferwhile warm to food processor.
Blend to form smooth butter.
Sugar
Water
from page 2367
40g
40g
BANANA YOGURT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Bananas, un peeled 500g
Banana puree, from above 100 g
Banana juice, from above 40 g
Creme fraiche 30 g
Salt to taste
from page 598
10%
10%
@) Combine, and bring to boil to make syrup
Remove from heat.
Blend syrup with hazelnut butter.
o Divide mixture evenly among centri fuge
bottles.
Centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h .
Decant oil on top, and refrigerate until use .
Yields150 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
500% @ Cook sous vide in 88 C/ 190 OF bath for12 mill .
(3) Peel, puree, and measure 100 g.
100%
40%
30%
Centrifuge 400 gof puree at 27,500g for1 h.
@) Decant juice, and reserve 40 g.
Puree unti l smooth.
Season yogurt.
o Refrigerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
The sugar syrup dramaticall y
improves the yield of the product
by helping to force a cleaner
separation between the layers.
It also sweetens the result,
however. Use plain waterto boost
yield without addi ng sweetness.
Adding 0.2% of Pectinex Smash XXL
e nzyme to fruit and vegetable
purees and juices before centri-
fuging can both speed the
separation process and increase
the yield by up to a factor of
two- see page 43.
41
Best Bets for Consomme
Recipe liquid (scaling) Flavoring (scaling) Aromatics
bacon consomme white pork stock 100% bacon, thinly sli ced 50% sweet onions, thinly sli ced
lager 8%
black pepper
maple syrup
brown butter white chicken stock 100% brown butter extract 5% star ani se
consomme
butternut squash juice 20%
see page 4213 saffron
vodka 5%
chocolate water water 100% dark chocolate (80% cocoa) 24% cocoa nib
adapted from Sam Mason
cocoa powder
consomme madrilE!ne white chicken stock 100% ground chicken, browned 30% coriander seed
tomato water 100% tomato, peeled a nd seeded 15% star anise
see page 40
vermouth 5%
kimchi consomme ramen stock 100% kimchi, pureed 6% fish sauce
lime juice
Parmesan water water 100% Parmesan cheese, grated 100%
pea consomme pea juice 100% cinnamon essentia l oil to taste lime juice
(optional)
rhubarb water rhubarb juice 100% white soy sauce 12% lime juice
fructose
shellfish consomme shellfi sh stock 100% lobster bodi es 30% onion, thinly sliced
crab knuckl es 20% carrot, thinly sli ced
shrimp shell s 12% tomato paste
from page 2374
OYSTER CONSOMME Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Clarified unsalted butter 95g
Scallions, thinly sliced 20g
Ginger, peeled and thinly 11g
sliced
Galangal, peeled and 9g
thinly sliced
White vegetable stock 425g
see page 6
Roasted coconut juice 100g
(store-bought!
Clam juice 150g
see page 36
Sake (dry) 110g
lemongrass, thinly sliced 20g
Cilantro leaves and stems 5g
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf 2g
Oyster juice SOg
lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5206
SCALING
95%
20%
11%
9%
425%
100%
150%
110%
20%
PROCEDURE
CD Saute prepared vegetables together until fragrant and
scalli ons are translucent, about 7 min.
o Add to scallion mi xt ure, and mix together.
Reduce to 300 g, about15 min.
@) Strain.
Cool.
5% Add to strained li quid.
2% 0 Steep in refrigerator for 2 h.
50% Strain infused liquid, and season.
Clarify with vacuum fi lter.
@ Refrigerate until use.
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5.0%
0.3%
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10.0%

0.5%
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0.1%
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to taste

to taste
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Method
cook sous vide
cook sous vide
cook on stove top
cook sous vide
infuse sous vide
cook sous vide
Cook
(OC) (OF)
88 190
80 176
90 194
80 176
refrigerated
88 190
n/ a
n/ a
(h) Clarify
2 freeze filtration CLARIFYING A CONSOMME
CD Select a recipe. See the table at left for suggestions.
o Combine the liquids, flavoring agents, and aromatics.
vacuum filtration
Quantities given in the table are proportional to the weight
of the principal liquid. For example, use 8 g of lager for
every 100 g of stock when making bacon consomme .
Cook (if appl icable). Recommended cooking methods,
10 min centrifugation temperatures, and times are indicated in the table. If
cooking so us vide, vacuum seal all ingredients together.
methylcellulose fini ng
o Clarify. See Strategies for Filtering Liquids and Clarifying
Consommes on page 2352 for more details on the clari-
fication methods suggested in the table; alternative
strategies may work as well.
Season. For seasoning options, see Best Bets for Lowering
24 agar filtration
pH on page 22, Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor
Enhancers on page 21, and Best Bets for Adding Flavor with
Alcohol on page 24.
1h freeze fi ltration
centrifugation
Buon Vino wine filter or Buchner
funnel with Whatman 597 paper
: ; - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ ~ -
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-

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--,
-
--,
-
--,
-
--,
-
-
--,
-

-
fry shells, cool, 88 190
cook sous vide
APPLE CIDER CONSOMME
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sugar 40g
Water 20g
White miso paste 109
Water 40g
Apple cider 500g
Green apple juice 250g
Cider vinegar 109
Malic acid 6g
Salt 6g
Thyme leaves 6g
Pectinex Smash XXL 1.6 g
(Novozymes)
from page 2377
centrifuge
SCALING
8%
4%
2%
8%
100%
50%
2%
1.2%
1.2%
1.2%
0.32%
(0.2%)*
PROCEDURE
CD Cook over high heat; allow caramel to become dark.
o Deglaze caramel.
Whisk until dissolved.
o Cool.
Combine with caramel water.
@ Vacuum seal.
(7) Refrigerate for 4 h to infuse.
Strain.
Whisk into juice.
@ Pour into tall, clear container, and refrigerate for 24 h to clarify.
@ Decant clarified liquid without disturbing solids settled at bottom.
@ Check seasoning.
@) Serve with gri ll ed mackerel or raw foie gras dressed in walnut oil.
*(% of total combined weight of apple cider, green applejuice, and cider vinegar)
During the clarification process, the enzyme will force solids to the bottom of the
container. See page 2-352 for more clarification methods.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
Yields 850 g
43
r
SPRING GARLIC CONSOMME
INGREDIENT
Carrots, thinly sliced
White onions, thinly sliced
Unsalted butter
Duck meat, ground
Water
Black peppercorns
Green garlic spears
Limejuice
Salt
from page 586
QUANTITY
80g
80g
25g
350g
200g
0.2g
200g
to taste
to taste
SCALING
40%
40%
12.5%
175%
100%
0.1%
100%
BAGNA CAUDA CONSOMME
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Garlic cloves, green 80g
removed and thinly sliced
Grapeseed oil 80g
Sweet onions, sliced 7Sg
Unsalted butter 50g
Olive oil 2Sg
Clam juice 155g
see page36
Water 15S g
White wine (dry) 50g
Garlicconfit 27g
see page 176
Anchovy, chopped 2Sg
Chives, minced 2g
Thyme, minced 19
from page 5230
PISTACHIO CONSOMME
SCALING
52%
52%
48%
32%
16%
100%
100%
32%
17.S%
16%
1.3%
0.6%
PROCEDURE
CD Saute toget her until onions are translucent.
(3) Combine with carrots and onions.
Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi forl h.
o Strain through fine sieve.
Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h.
Strain, measure 100 g of consomme, and reserve.
o Blanch for 3 min.
Puree.
Centrifuge at 27,SOOgfor 1 h.
@ Meas ure 20 g of res ulting clear juice, and whisk into consomme.
@ Season and serve, or vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
PROCEDURE
CD Saute garlic in oi l until golden, and reserve.
(3) Saute onions in butter and oil until translucent.
Add reserved garli c and re maining ingredi e nts to onions, and simmer for20 min.
o Cool.
Process in centrifuge at 27,SOOg for 1 h, or use alternative clarification method.
Refrigerate until use. Serve hot or cold.
Yields 80 g
Yields250 g
Yields200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Raw pistachios, shelled
Sugar
Grapeseed oil
Water
Pistachio oil
Salt
from page 2376
100g
15g
109
300g
20g
to taste
100%
15%
10%
100%
20%
CD Combine.
(3) Roast in 190 ' C / 375 ' F oven until very dark and sugar
has caramelized, about20 min.
Puree wit h roasted pistachios unt il smooth.
o Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for12 h.
Centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h.
o Decant cl ear liquid through fine sieve, and discard
remaining solids.
Season.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
The remaining nut solids in the
centrifuge bottles are not used
for anything in this recipe orthese
volumes, but they're a delicious
snack for the chef.
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POT-AU-FEU CONSOMME
INGREDIENT
Oxtail
Ground beef shank
Neutral oil
QUANTITY
300g
7S0 g
7Sg
Sweet onions, cut in half 280 g
Turnips, peeled and thinly 200 g
sliced
Leeks, thinly sliced 170 g
Celery root, peeled a nd 100 g
thinly sliced
Garlic head, halved 70 g
Rendered beef suet SOg
White beef stock 800 g
see page 6
Carrot juice 3S0g
(from about
550 g carrots)
Parsnip juice 180 g
(from about
650 g parsnips)
Bl ack peppercorns l.l g
Cloves, whole
19
Allspice berri es O.SSg
Salt to taste
She rry vinegar to taste
from page 552
SCALING
40%
100%
10%
37.3%
26.6%
22.6%
13.3%
9.3%
6.6%
106.6%
46.6%
24%
Yields200 g
PROCEDURE
o Cut through center of bone and joints to release marrow.
(3) Coat oxtail and ground beefshank with oil.
Roast in 190 c / 375 OF oven, stirring often to ensure even browning, until golden brown,
about 15 min.
o Prepare vegetables as noted.
Sear onions, cut side down, unti l dark brown.
@ Sweat vegetables and garli c in suet until tender.
o Combine wit h roasted meats and vegetables.
Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2 h.
Strai n, discarding soli ds.
@ Clarify liquid with preferred method.
@ Reduce to 200 g.
0.15% @ Add to consomme.
0.13%
0.07%
@ Infuse at room temperature to desired fl avor, about 5-7 min.
@ Season.
THE MOD ERN I ST KITCHEN
45
OXTAIL CONSOMME INSPIRED BY DAVID BOULEY Yields 2.5 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Spanish onions, peeled and halved SOOg
(two large
onions)
Water SOg
Oxtail, jointed 1.5 kg
Neutral oil 30g
Brown beef stock 2 kg
see page lO
Onion jus, from above 250g
Gin 250g
Veal marrow 250 g
Button mushrooms, thinly sliced 150 g
Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 100g
Celery stalk, peeled and thinly sliced 30g
Oxtail broth, from above 2 kg
Ground beef 300g
Super methylcell ulose SGA 150 2g
(Dow brand}
Bay leaf extract to taste
see page2?
lovage leaves, fine jul ienne to taste
Salt to taste
Star anise extract to taste
see page2?
from page 2-376
RED COLESLAW
SCALING
25%
2.5%
75%
1. 5%
100%
12.5%
12.5%
12. 5%
7.5%
5%
1.5%
100%
15%
0.1 %
PROCEDURE
CD Sear cut side down until li ght golde n, about 8 min.
o Cool.
Vacuum seal with seared onions.
o Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 7 h.
Transfer mixture from bag to bowl, and cool.
Strain, discarding onion solids.
o Measure 250 g of onion jus, and reserve.
Brown oxtail over hi gh heat on a ll sides until golde n, about1S min.
Combine with browned oxtail in pressure cooker.
@ Pressure-cook at gauge press ure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 2 h.
@ Strain, discarding solids.
@ Measure 2 kg of oxtail broth.
@ Mix200 gofbrothwith super methylcellulose.
e Whisk into ground beef to make paste.
@ Mix paste into re maining oxtail broth for consomme.
@ Simmer consomme on low until clarified, about 45 min.
Strain.
@ Season.
Yields300 g
For photos of the steps involving methyl-
cellulose, see page 2-359.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Green apple juice,
clarified
Red cabbage juice,
clarified
Red wine vinegar
Honey
Black peppercorns,
fine ly crushed
Salt
Red cabbage, julienne
Pickled mustard seeds
see page 3348
from page 572
41i
400g
400g
400g
30g
0.4 g
to taste
lS0 g
10 9
267%
267%
267%
7.5%
0.1%
100%
6.5%
CD Combine.
o Vacuum concentrate, using vacuum reduction
equipment, to 150 g, about 2 h.
Season juice reduction.
o Mi x with juice reduction, and serve immediately.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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HOW TO DISTILL WITH A ROTAVAP
o Pl ace the zest-vodka mixture in the evaporation flask of a rotary
evaporator.
Set the target vacuum to 50 mbar / 38 torr and the bath temperature to
35 ' C / 95 ' F. Set the condenser chi ll ing water temperature to 1 ' c / 34 ' F
if you are using a helical condenser. If you are using a cold-trap-styl e
condenser, fill it with ice water, and prepare a salt brine (see page 2260).
You may have to use a highe r bath temperature if the rate of distillation is
too slow.
Distill . The time required depends the size ofthe batch and many other
factors. Check the condensation coil periodically; if the condensation
line rises more than three-quarters of the way up the coil, or if you can
smell what is being distilled, too many volatiles a re escaping. There are
several ways to correct this probl e m. You can decrease the condenser
chilling watertemperature, increase the flow, or do both. Or yo u
can decrease the bath temperature, but in that case, you must also
decrease the vacuum. Re lease the vacuum when distillat ion is
complete.
o Separate the oil from the solvent. Pipette the thin layer of oi l floating
on top ofthe receiving flask into a separatory fu nne l. Allow the oil to
separate overnight, or use a centrifuge (see page 2360) to separate the
components more quickly.
Drain any solvent from the funnel, and then drain the essential oils into a
separate vessel.
@) Keep the essential oil refrigerated in an airtight container.
BUDDHA'S HAND VODKA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Boiling Point vs Vacuum Pressure
To set your rotary evaporator, choose a temperature
appropriate for the boiling point of the solvent or
material you want to distill, and then adjust vacuum
pressure accordingly.
Boiling point Water
(OC) (OF) (mbar)
20 68 23
30 86 42
40 104 72
50 122 120
60 140 194
Because we start this recipe with
vodka and end up diluting the
result to 40% (80 proof) alcohol,
no concentration of alcohol occurs.
We are simply using alcohol as a
solvent forthe citrus essential oils.
Ethanol
(torr) (mbar) (torr)
17 58 44
32 102 77
54 167 125
90 289 217
145 463 347
One can also ext ract citrus essen-
tial oil mechanically, instead of
distilling it. Commerciall y, this is
done by pressing; the result is
called a pressed essential oil.
You can make your own by homog-
eni zing citrus zest and alcohol as
in step 1 (preferably by treating the
mixture in an ultrasonic bath).
Then use a centrifuge to separate
the oil. It will have a different
aromatic quality than the oil
produced by disti ll at ion.
Yields 1.5 kg
Vodka 1.5 kg
Buddha's hand citron zest 400 g
100%
27%
o Blend together for 3 min. Optionally, infuse in so us vide bag or jar placed in an ultrasonic
bath for 1 h (see page 2302).
Distilled water as needed
from page 2389
Place liquid in rotary vacuum disti ll er for 3 h with vacuum pressure at 50 mbar / 38 torr and
bath temperature at35 ' c / 95 ' F. Set condenser chill ing water to 1 ' c / 34 ' F.
Distill.
o Dilute distillate to 40% alcohol. Use hydrometer to measure ethanol concentration.
VACUUM-CONCENTRATED APPLE AND CABBAGEJUICE Yields180 g
INGREDIENT
Green apple juice, centrifuged
Red cabbage juice, centrifuged
Red wine vinegar
Juice concentrate, from above
Honey
Black peppercorns, finely crushed
Salt
from page 2-389
QUANTITY
400g
400g
400g
150 g
30g
OAg
to taste
SCALING
267%
267%
267%
100%
7.5%
0.27%
PROCEDURE
o Combine.
o Set bath temperature to 50 ' C / 122 ' F, condenser chilling water to 5 C/ 41 ' F and
target pressure to 50 mbar / 3B torr.
Distill .
o Reserve concentrated source liquid.
Season.
Because we discard the solvent, the concentra-
tion can be done by using a vacuum evaporator
instead of a rotary evaporator.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 47
s
MOCK TURTLE SOUP ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL
Yi elds 4 kg (about 90 servings)
INGREDIENT
Brown beef stock
see pagelO
Cherry tomatoes, quartered
Mushroom jus
see page 37
Fino sherry
White soy sauce
Freeze-concentrated stock,
from above
Gelatin, 160 Bloom
Gold leaf sheets
from page 2394
QUANTITY
1 kg
120 g
290g
165g
133g
500 g
60g
as needed
SCALING
200%
24%
58%
32%
26%
100%
12%
PROCEDURE
CD Gently warm stock until no longer gell ed but still cool.
o Add cherry tomatoes, and infuse at room temperature fo r 20 min. Strain, and reserve
infused stock.
o Combine, and mi x with infused stock. Vacu um seal, and freeze.
@ W ~ e n froze n, remove from bag, and place on pe rforated tray lined with doubl e layer
of cheesecloth.
Refrigerate, whil e freeze-fi ltering fo r 72 h (see page 2370).
Vacuum seal fi ltered stock, and freeze.
(2) Transfer froze n stock to food processor; pulse unti l coarsely crushed.
Drain crushed, frozen stock over fine sieve lined wit h doubl e layer of cheesecloth.
eEl Coll ect thawed, concentrated stock, and discard remaining ice.
@Transferconcentrated stock to Genevac Rocket bottl es, and reduce by half at 8 mbar /
6 torr, heating temperature of 50 C/ 122 Of, and condenser at 1 C/ 34 Of.
@ Reserve 500 g of reduced stock.
@ Combine, and vacuum seal.
@ Cookin 60 C/ 140 Of bath un til all gelatin dissolves, about5 min.
e Transfer to depositing funne l, and dispense 6g into each pocketwatch silicone mold.
@ Refrigerate, and allow to set completely, about 4 h.
@ Remove gell ed stock from molds, and place flat side down on corner of gold leaf sheet.
Use tweezers to gentl y fo ld gold leaf over top of each gell ed stock portion; use fin e
brush to tuck gold leaf under bottom edges.
@ Refrigerate unti l needed.
@ Toserve, place each stock portion in bottom of teacup; pour 40 g of hot water over
stock. Stir until gell ed stock dissolves.
INDIES SPICE BLEND ADAPTE D FROM O LIVI ER ROELL1NGER Yields20 g
Most Indi an recipes start with
toasting spices in a dry frying pan
to develop the fl avor. A better way
to toast spices is to put t hem in a
s"hallow pan in a combi oven or
convection oven at 170 C / 338 Of
until fragrant. This avoids scorching
the spices.
To make the vanilla seed-pod
scrapings, split a vani ll a bean
lengthwise with a knife then
scrape the seeds and the residue
surrounding them from the
seed pod.
INGREDIENT
Coriander seeds
Black pe ppe rcorns
Caraway seeds
Cinnamon sti ck, grated
Mace
Sichuan peppercorns
Star anise
Clove
Turmeric powder
Orange peel, grated
Vanilla seeds a nd pulp
Cayenne pepper
from page 2-403
QUATRE EPICES
INGREDIENT
Black peppercorns
Cinnamon, ground
Nutmeg
Cloves
from page 2-403
QUANTITY
2.1 g
1.7 g
1.5 g
19
19
19
0.4g
0.2g
7.5 g
2.5g
1. 5g
0.5g
QUANTITY
200g
100 g
80 g
40g
SCALING
28%
22.7%
20%
13.3%
13.3%
13.3%
5.3%
2.7%
100%
33.3%
20%
6.7%
SCALING
100%
50%
40%
20%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine and toast in frying pan until fragrant.
o Remove from heat, and cool.
o Combine in coffee grinder with toasted
spice blend.
@ Grind to fine powde r.
Store in airtight container until needed.
Yields420g
PROCEDURE
CD Toast spi ces in dry ski ll et until fragrant.
o Combine in coffee grinder and grind to
fine powder.
o Store in airtight container until needed.

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CHILI TOMATO SPICE BLEND
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Freeze-dried tomatoes 30g
see page 188
Freeze-dried piqui ll o pepper 25g
see page 188
Coriande r seeds, toasted and ground 5g
Sweet paprika powder 5g
Controne hot pepper, finely ground 2g
Hot-smoked paprika powder 1 g
Saffron threads 1 g
Fennel seeds, toasted and ground 0.6g
Ajowan seeds, toasted and ground 0.5g
from page 2403
MEMPHIS RUB
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Sweet Hungarian paprika 12.5 g 100%
Salt 7.sg 60%
Garlic powder 3g 24%
Chili powder 2.5 g 20%
(McCormick brand)
Onion powder 2.sg 20%
Sweet paprika 2.sg 20%
Black peppercorns 2g 16%
from page 568
KANSAS RUB
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Brown sugar 50 g 100%
Salt 4g 8%
Black pepper, ground 3.5 g 7%
Chili powder 2.5g 5%
(McCormick brand)
Sweet paprika 2.sg 5%
Garlic powder l.sg 3%
Onion powder 19 2%
Red chili, minced 1 g 2%
from page 568
Yields 70 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% o Grind together to fine powder.
(3) Store in airtight contain er unt il needed.
83%
16.7%
16.7%
6.7%
3.3%
3.3%
2%
1.7%
Yields 32.5 g
PROCEDURE
For our friends who think barbecu-
o Grind fin ely, and sieve.
ing is throwing a piece of meat on a
fl aming- hot grill : it's not. That 's grill-
ing. Barbecuing is done low and
slow, with lots of smoke (see
Smoking, page 2132). In some
places, you'd be laughed out of
town orwors e for suggesting
otherwise.
Yields 60 g
PROCEDURE
o Gri nd fine ly, and sieve.
Dry rubs are usuall y put on 12 hours
before cooking. However, we also
use the m as a spice mix added at
the end.
THE MODERN I ST KI TCHEN
49
"
L.
L
L
L
CHAAT MASALA Yi elds 70 g
\.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cori ande r seeds 19 g 76% CD Combine, and roast in 175 O( / 350 OF oven until
\.
Cumin seeds 15 g 60%
golden, about 7 min.
"-
Ajowan 3g 12%
Bl ack peppercorns 3g 12%
\..
Dried chili es 19 4% \..
Salt 25 g 100% o Combine roasted spi ce mi x with remaining
\.
Dried green mango 8g 32%
ingredie nts.
powder {amchoorl Grind mixture to powde r. \.
Dry pomegranate seeds 4g 16% o Pass through fin e sieve, and vacuum seal and
(anardanal refri gerate until use.
\.
from page 5282 \.
SWEET SPICE BLEND Yi elds25 g
\.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE \.
Star a nise, toasted 10 9 100% CD Mi x togethe r.
\.
and ground
o Vacuum seal a nd reserve until use.
,.
Dri ed ginger, ground 4g 40%
\.
Vanill a bean seeds and 4g 40%
,.
pulp
\;

Bl ack peppe r, ground 3g 30%
\
Cinnamon, toasted 3g 30%
and ground
"
Nutmeg, ground 1. 5g 15%
,
fro m page 5212
\
PASSION FRUIT GRAN ITA Yi elds180 g
,
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE ,
Passion fruit juice 150 g 100% CD Combine.
Sugar 20 g 13.5% o Transfer to Pacojet beaker, and freeze. Alternati vely,
,
Lime juice
10 9 6.5%
freeze mi xture in container, and break it up with fork
,
Salt 1. 5g 1%
into fl akes pe ri odi call y as it freezes. Reserve frozen.
Pacotize once to serve.

from page 5177

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FISH SPICE MIX
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Hazelnuts, peeled, 24g
roasted, and coarsely
ground
Sesame seeds, toasted 22g
Coriander seeds, toasted 6g
White poppy seeds, 5g
toasted
Dried ginger, ground 2g
Salt 1.6g
Dri ed chamomile, ground 1.2 g
from page 5154
PAIN D'EPICES POWDER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Cinnamon stick 8g
Star anise 3.2g
Cloves 2.5g
Aniseeds 2g
Coriander seeds 2g
Spray-dried honey 240g
powder (store-bought)
Salt 12g
Ginger powder 3g
Nutmeg, grated 3g
Mace blade 1.5g
Orange zest, grated 1.2g
from page 522
SCALING
100%
92%
25%
22%
8.5%
6.5%
0.5%
SCALING
3.3%
1.3%
1%
0.8%
0.8%
100%
5%
1.3%
1.3%
0.6%
0.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Prepare ingredients as noted.
(3) Combine in food processor or mortar.
Grind to coarse powder.
o Vacuum seal to preserve aroma.
@) Refrigerate until use.
PROCEDURE
Yields450 g
Yields300 g
@ Toast spices together in 170 c / 340 OF oven.
(3) Grind spices to fine powder.
Blend into toasted spice powder.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
This spice mixture is incredibly
versatile. We highly recommend it
for sole, turbot, or any simil ar fish
simply panfried in butter.
51
~
~
--
CITRUS SPICE ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL
Yields30 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Orange zest, finely grated llg
{from two oranges}
Lemon zest, finely grated 9g
{from two le mons}
Lime zest, finely grated 3g
{from two limes}
Licorice root, finely ground 3g
Vanilla seeds and pulp 1.5 g
Coffee beans, roasted and 1 g
finely ground
Coriander seeds, deeply toasted 1 g
and finely ground
Mint leaves, freeze-dried 19
see page 188 {20 leaves}
from page 2-404
SCALING
100%
82%
27%
27%
13.6%
9%
9%
9%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
(3) Spread on si li cone baking mat.
Dehydrate at50 ' C/ 120 'F until completely dri ed, about35 min.
o Combine with dried zest and gri nd to fine powder.
Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
LICORICE POWDER ADAPTED FROM MICHEL BRAS
Yields280 g
INGREDIENT
Black olives, pitted
Dried black olives, from above
N-ZorbitM
{National Starch brand}
Almond powder (meal)
Demerara sugar
Licorice root, finely ground
Salt
Tonka beans, finely ground
from page 2-405
RAS EL HANOUT
INGREDIENT
Ginger powder
Turmeric powder
Black peppercorns, finely ground
Coriander seeds, finely ground,
toasted
Grains of paradise, finely grou nd,
toasted
Cinnamon stick, finely ground
Star anise, finely ground, toasted
Dried chili, finely ground
Dried rosebuds, finely ground
Allspice, finely ground
QUANTITY
400g
160g
20g
80g
109
5g
5g
19
QUANTITY
40g
30g
25g
15g
12g
5.5g
5.5g
5.4g
5g
4g
Cubeb pepper, finely ground, toasted 3.6 g
Clove, finely ground 2g
Nutmeg, finely ground 2g
from page 2405
SCALING
250%
100%
12.5%
50%
6.25%
3.1%
3.1 %
0.625%
SCALING
100%
75%
62.5%
37.5%
30%
13.75%
13.75%
13.5%
12.5%
10%
9%
5%
5%
PROCEDURE
CD Arrange on nonstick baking sheet in one even layer.
(3) Dehydrate in 80 ' C / 175 ' F oven for 8-12 h until completely dried.
Meas ure 160 g of dried oli ves.
o Grind together to fine powde r (N-Zorbit M will prevent powder from turning
into paste), and rese rve.
Mi x together, and spread on nonstick baking sheet.
@) Bake in 135 ' C / 275 ' F oven until light golden, about 35 min, and cool.
(]) Blend into olive powder.
Stir into powder.
PROCEDURE
CD Dry-bl end together.
(3) Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Yields155 g
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EXOTIC SPICE MIXTURE INSPIRED BY OLIVIER ROELLINGER
Yields 90 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Sesame seeds 50g 100%
Cumin seeds B.2g 16.4%
Sumac 1B g 36%
Ajowan seeds 6.5g 13%
Dried oregano 2.9 g 5.B%
Cardamom seeds 2g 4%
Ground cinnamon 2g 4%
Nutmeg, freshly ground 1. 5g 3%
from page 2405
PACOJET PEA SOUP
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Green peas, frozen
Heavy cream
Pea juice
300 g 100%
200g 67%
150g 50%
see page 41
(or white vegetable stock, page 6)
Salt
Mint leaves, fine julienne
from page 2410
(from 500 g of
peas)
6g
3g
MOZZARELLA POWDER
INGREDIENT
Buffalo mozzarella
Buffalo mozzarella brine
Glucose syrup DE 40
from page 2-411
QUANTITY
2S0g
100 g
100 g
2%
1%
SCALING
100%
40%
40%
FROZEN CHEDDAR-CHEESE POWDER
INGREDIENT
Water, cold
Agar
Sodium citrate
QUANTITY
250g
2g
Bg
Cheddar cheese, fin ely grated 150 g
Salt 2.5 g
from page 2-411
SCALING
100%
O.B%
3.2%
60%
1%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, and toast in frying pan unti l golden.
(3) Cool completely, and reserve.
Grind together in spice grinde r.
o Add sesame and cumin bl e nd, and grind to fine powder.
Store in airt ight containe r until needed.
Yields 660 g
PROCEDURE
CD Combine and transfer to Pacojet beaker.
(3) Freeze to at least -20 c / -4 of.
Pacotize once.
o Optionally, freeze and Pacotize o nce more fo r
smoother texture.
Transfer soup to pot, and warm until just melted
and velvety.
@ Season.
This soup is best served when at
or below 60C/ 140 of, so that it
retai ns its sweetness. At hi ghe r
temperatures, the peas will taste
cooked and less sweet .
Yi elds450 g
PROCEDURE
CD Cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.
(3) Dissolve glucose into whey.
Blend whey mixture wit h mozzarella cubes until smooth.
o Transfer mi xture to Pacojet beaker an d freeze to at least -20 C / - 4 OF.
Pacotize once without venting.
@ Serve powder immediately, o r store frozen for up to 1 h.
PROCEDURE
(D Combine.
(3) Bringto boi l, and hold for1 min to fully hydrate.
Blend over ice-water bath to create fluid gel.
o Di sperse into fluid gel.
Bring mi xture to simmer.
@ Incorpo rate slowly into simmering mi xt ure unti l full y melted.
o Transfer mi xture to Pacoje t beaker, and freeze to -30 C / -22 OF.
Pacotize once, and refreeze to - 60 c /-76 OF.
Pacotize again o nce more to make very fine powder.
@ Serve immedi ately o r store frozen for up to 1 h.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
Yields400 g
53
".
HOW TO MILL A CREAMY NUT BUTTER
CD Place the nuts in th e feed fu nnel of the mill. Any tree nuts or peanuts will work.
o Run nuts through the machine. Repeat as many times as necessary to achi eve the desired texture, tightening the
coll ar for each successive pass. In using our machine, we have found that four passes yields a si lky-smoot h butter.
FROZEN CREME-FRAICHE AND PINE-NUT CREAM
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY
Water 500g
Glucose syrup DE 40 135g
Creme fraiche 100 g
Pi ne-nut butter 100 g
see above
Skim milk powder 79g
Iso malt 60g
Salt 10 9
Sugar 10 9
Guargum 2g
from page 2-411
SCALING
500%
135%
100%
100%
79%
60%
10%
10%
2%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend together.
o Place in Pacojet beaker, and freeze to at least -20 C / -4 OF.
Pacotize once.
@) Serve frozen cream immediately, or freeze.
Yieldsl kg
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SOUR RHUBARB SORBET
Yields 780 g _
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Rhubarb, thin ly sliced 500 g
Glucose syrup DE 40 BOg
Sugar 30g
Rhubarb jui ce 200 g
(from 350 g
rhubarb)
White balsamic vinegar 9g
(or other semisweet whi te
vinegar)
Mali cacid 3g
from page 5279
ROMESCO SAUCE
SCALING PROCEDURE
100 % CD Vacuum seal.
26% 0 Cooksous vide in 90 C/ 194 OF bath for2 h.
6% Pass through fine sieve.
40% @) Blend wit h cooked rh ubarb.
Adj ust acid ity to taste.
1.8%
Freeze in Pacojet container. Alternat ively, churn in ice cream machine, and store in freezer.
o To serve, Pacotize ortemperchurned sorbet.
0.6%
Yields 950 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 150 g
Smoked Hungarian paprika 20g
peppers, dri ed
Olive oil 250 g
Pine nuts, toasted 250 g
Hazelnuts, peeled and toasted 150 g
Piquillo peppers (store-bought 150 g
in jar, seeded)
Red wine vi negar 90g
Garlic cloves, blanched 19.5g
Paprika 9.5g
Pomegranate molasses 8g
(store-bought)
Salt to taste
from page 2-419
.<;4
60%
8%
100%
100%
60%
60%
36%
7.8%
3.8%
3.2%
CD Soak peppers at room temperat ure for 2 h.
o Remove peppers from water, a nd blend into paste.
Press through fine sieve.
@) Combine with paste.
Process mixture 3-4 times through coll oid mill, using increasingly fi ne settings unti l
desired texture is achi eved.
Season.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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MAKING A SMOOTH PUREE
~
CD Prepare the vegetables by cutting into evenly shaped, small pieces, as
Combine vegetable with the liquid or seasoning indi cated in the table.
~
indicated in the table below.
Set the weight of the produce to 100%. For example, use 12 g of butter for
~
(3) Cook as indicated. Suggested methods, temperat ures, and times are every 100 g of mushrooms.
listed in the table.
o Puree by using the tool indi cated, and pass through a fin e sieve.
~
Optionally, process with rotor-stator homogenizer, ultra high pressure
~
homogenizer, or ultrasonic homogeni zerforfiner texture. For large
quantities, a colloid mill is an ideal tool.
~
Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees
~
Cook
:=
Ingredient Prep Method
(OC) (oF)
(min) Liquid (scaling)* Tool See page
--
apple peel ed, quartered so us vide
--
90 194 21Jz h commercial 517
bl e nder
~
asparagus thinly sliced saute hi gh heat 10 vegetable stock 25% commercial 33
.....,
unsalted butte r 15%
blender
-
---. artichoke hearts, thinly sli ced sous vide 80 176 45 vegetable stock 50% commercial
- bl e nder
o live oil 5%
~
beet pee led, thinly sous vide 80 176 1 h cooked beet 50% commercial
~
sli ced juice bl e nder
""11!11 unsalted butte r 15%
-
broccoli stems, pee led medium heat saute 12 ne utral oil 3% commercial next page
~
--'
and sliced ble nder
~
florets, sli ced boil high heat 4 hazelnut oi l 10%
~
carrot peeled, saute medium-low heat 30 carrot juice 50% commercial 150
thinly sliced
carote ne butter 15%
bl e nder
~
cauliflower florets, sli ced saute medium-low heat 1Y2 h vegetable stock 50% commercial 5281
~ unsalted butter 15%
bl e nder
.:::J
corn kernels so us vide 85 185 1 h corn juice 25% commercial 5101
unsalted butter 15%
blender
~
celery root peeled, sous vide 90 194 1Y2 h skim milk 34% commerci al 57
~
thinly sli ced
unsalted butter 15%
blender
--
Jerusalem thinly sliced saute medium 45 whole milk 25% commercial
,....;
~
artichoke heat blender
unsalted butter 15%
~
mushroom thinly sliced saute medium- 30 water 50% commercial 57 ..,-
~
high heat unsalted butte r 12% blender
onion peeled oven roast 175 345 35 whole milk 12.5% commercial next
~
bl e nder
~
parsley leaves sous vide 90 194 7 water to cover Pacojet
~
parsnip peeled, sous vide 90 194 45 unsalted butter 25% commercial
thinly sliced blender
~ pea whol e freeze and n/ a pea jui ce 50% Pacojet 53
""
thaw
heavy cream 10%
~
..".
potato peeled, so us vide 100 212 35 unsalted butter 50% food mill or ricer 144, 148, 151
-
thinly sliced
heavy cream 30 %
.,
~
shallot peeled, saute medium heat 30 unsalted butter 25% comme rcia l
'"'
thinly sliced blender
..-'
~
spinach leaves blanch 90 194 7 water 15% Pacojet
winter peeled, sous vide 90 194 45 commercial 560
.;:;\
squash thinly sliced blender
,.;:) from page 2-425 *(set weight of prepared vegetable to 700%)
,.:;.
~
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 55
~
I
r
ill
BROCCOLI AND HAZELNUT-OIL PUREE INSPIRED BY JACQUES MAXIMIN Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Broccoli florets
Broccoli stalks,
peeled a nd sli ced
Neutral oil
Roasted hazelnut oil
(Walnut oil or other nut
oils can also be used for
this recipe)
Salt
from page 2-426
300g
220 g
10 9
30g
to taste
CREAMED WATERCRESS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Watercress, 450 g
large branches removed
Wate r 125 g
Low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel 7 g
F, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium citrate 2g
Wate rcress puree, from 300g
above
Glucose syrup DE 40 60g
White onion, thinly sli ced 51 g
and blanched
Water 21 g
Oli ve oil 51 g
Maltodextrin DE 19 27g
Eggwhite 24g
Garlic, thinl y sliced and 20 g
blanched once
Capers 15 g
Salt 9g
from page 2-426
100%
73%
3%
10%
CD Blanch florets in 2% saline water for 3 min.
(3) Rinse in ice water.
Saute stalks until golde n and te nde r, about 4 min. Cool.
o Combine with florets and stalks.
Puree in bl e nder on hi gh power until smooth.
Trans fe r pu ree to beaker.
o Process with rotor-stator homogeni zer at 4, 000 rpm until extre mely silky, about 3 min.
Season and drizzle wi th more hazelnut oil if desired.
Wa rm through or refrigerate unt il use.
SCALING PROCEDURE
150% CD Cook so us vide in 90 c / 194 OF bat h for 7 min.
(3) Shock in ice water, and the n remove fro m bag.
Puree.
42%
2.3%
(7.2%)*
0.7%
(0.35%)*
100%
20%
17%
7%
o Pass through fine sieve.
Measure 300 g of puree for recipe, and reserve.
Dry-bl end ge ll an a nd sodium citrate, and di sperse in water.
o Vacuum seal solution.
Hyd rate sous vide in 85 C/ 185 OF bat h for 5 min.
Refrigerate gel stock until set.
@ Combine with gel stock.
@ Puree.
@ Combine with puree.
@ Pour into Pacojet beaker.
@ Freeze to at least -20 c / - 4 of.
Yi elds700g
17%
9%
8%
7%
@ Toserve, Pacotize once and serve cold as garnish for roast beef, or warm and use as sauce for
roasted fish .
5%
3%
*(% of total combined weight of the puree and subsequent ingredients)
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PISTACHIO PUREE ADAPTED FROM ALE X STUPAK Yields 445 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sicilian pistachios, shelled 200 g
Water 125g
Pistachio oil
Glucose syrup DE 40
Salt
N-Zorbit M (National
Starch brand)
from page 2427
75g
40g
4g
2.5g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% @ Soak pistachios in waterfor12 h, refrigerated.
62.5%
37.5% 0 Puree together pistachios and soaki ng water, o il,
20% and glucose.
2% Pass through fine sieve.
o Season with salt.
1.25% Whisk into puree to thicken.
(0.6%)* Vacuum seal and refri gerate unti l use.
*(% oftotol combined weight offtrstfour ingredients)
BLACK TRUFflE CONCENTRATE
Yie lds 325 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Black winter truffles, scrubbed 100g
thoroughly and thinly sliced
Brown chicken jus 25g
see page 34
Red wine (dry) 15 g
Porto bello mushroom gills
109
Tawny port(medium dry)
109
Black truffle oil (store-bought) 7 g
Champagne vinegar
Salt
from page 2-427
to taste
to taste
SCALING
100%
25%
15%
10%
10%
3.5%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine and puree in blender or with rotor-
stator homogenizer.
o Vacuum seal puree.
Cook sous vide in 80 ( / 176 OF bath for 1 h.
o Transfer sealed puree to ultrasonic bath
if avail able (see page 2415), and process for
30 min. If bath is unavailable, proceed with
remaining steps.
Refrigerate sealed puree for later use, or
prepare to serve.
To serve, warm sealed puree in 80 ( / 176 OF
bath for10 min.
(2) Remove from bag, and bl e nd until compl ete ly
smooth.
Season, and serve immediately.
CELERY ROOT MOUSSELINE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sugar 30g
Celery roots, peeled and 300g
thinly sliced
Skim milk 100g
Unsalted butter 45g
Roasted peanut oil 30g
Salt to taste
from page 2427
SCALING PROCEDURE
10% @ Heat to 190 O( / 375 OF to make caramel.
o Cool completely.
100%
33%
15%
10%
Break into small pieces.
o Vacuum seal with caramel.
Cooksous vide in 90 0( / 195 OF bath forlY2 h.
Combine, a nd bring to simmer.
(2) Add celery roots, and puree to fine consistency.
Pass through fine sieve.
Season puree.
@ Serve or cool and refrigerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
A colloid mi ll works superbly for
making pistachio puree, as shown
on page 54. A blender or Pacoj et
also works.
This puree is quite expensive
and a small amount can go a long
way. Use it sparingly as a seasoning
for sauces and dress ings. To make
a more di luted puree that can be
served as a garnish, use more
liquid, and the n thicken with a fluid
gel (see page 4176) or blend into a
mushroom puree (see page 5216).
European summer and aut umn
truffles, Oregon truffles, and
Australian truffles are all accept-
able substitutes.
Yields 500 g
57
FREEZE-DRYING
CD Prepare the ingredients. Cut the food into bite-size pi eces or thi n sli ces
to greatly reduce drying times. Arrange the food in a single layer on
conductive trays that fit in your dryer. Aerate liquids and purees before
freezing or grind them into small pi eces aft erfreezing.
o Prefreeze the food to below the critical temperature. See the table
PrefreezingTemperatures for Freeze- Dri ed Foods on the next page for
suggested temperatures. Fasterfreezing will yield better texture but will
slow sublimation. Some foods have critical temperatures so low that
liquid nitrogen or a laboratory freezer is needed to reach them.
Set the freeze dryer temperatures. Set the shelf temperature to 20 ' c 1
36 ' F above the critical temperat ure of the prefrozen food . Set the
condenser to 20 ' C 1 36 ' F below the critical temperature.
@ Freeze-dry t he food. Ins ert a fine temperature probe into the core of
the frozen food. Engage the vacuum pump, and run it until the core
Best Bets for Freeze-Drying
temperature of the food is wi thin 1 ' C 1 2 ' F of the shelf temperature.
Because of the physics offreeze-dryi ng, the core temperature of the food
may fa ll at fi rst. This is not unusual. But if the core temperature ofthe
food fails to increase within a few hours, increase the shelf temperature
by 5 ' C 110 OF to supply more energy.
Increase the shelftemperature to 5 ' C 1 40 ' F. When the core
temperature of the food exceeds 0 ' ci 32 ' F, preliminary drying
is complete.
@) Begin secondary drying. Set the condenser to the coldest temperature
avail able and increase the shelf temperature to the temperature
recommended in t he tabl e on the next page, or20-60 ' ci 70-140 ' F
(as warm as the food will tolerate without damage). When the core
temperature of the food reaches the shelf temperature, freeze-drying
is complete.
Drying temperatures
Primary Secondary
Total
drying
Dimension Shelf Condenser Shelf time
Ingredient Prep (em) (in) (' C) (' F) (' C) (' F) (oC) (OF) (h) Example use
beef raw, sli ced 1 Yo
- 20 - 4 - 45 - 49 30 86 8 grind to a fine powder, and use to form a meaty
crust on steaks and hamburgers
beef raw, pounded paper-thin -20 - 4 - 45 - 49 30 86 4 break into "carpaccio chips," and dust with
tenderloin
oli ve oil, grated Parmesan, and arugula powder
eggs
cooked, peel ed sliced or - 35 -31 - 60 - 76 60 140 12 Astronaut Ramen
quartered
fruits sliced 0.1 'h2
- 40 - 40 - 65 - 85 30 86 4 enjoy whole; use in cereal or as a garnish or
pureed 1 Yo 8
seasoning
chunks 2
3,4 64
ice cream sli ced 2.5 1 -30 - 22 - 55 - 67 40 104 96 sold commercially as astronaut ice cream
lettuce and leaves whole - 25 -13 - 50 - 58 40 104 12 Caesar Salad (see page 189)
tender greens
lobster raw, whole, shell ed - 10 14 -35 - 31 20 68 120 reconstitute in melted butter; grind to a
powder, and use as a seasoning
noodles cooked 0.1 'h2 -15 5 - 40 - 40 70 158 12 Astronaut Ramen
pork belly cooked or raw, 0.5 1,4 - 20 -4 -45 - 49 30 86 6
thinly sliced
pork shoulder cooked tender, shredded - 20 - 4 -45 - 49 30 86 12
scallops raw, pureed -10 14 -35 - 31 20 68 8 grind to a fin e powder, and use as a seasoning
whole 48 break into panko-like slivers, and use as a
breading or garnish
stocks, broths, cubed 2 o
- 15 5 - 40 - 40 70 158 36 instant bouillon, breading; use to enrich soups
and sauces
ground 1
Yo 8
and sauces
vegetables fine julienne - 25 -13 -50 - 58 40 104 4 Astronaut Ramen, breading, onion tart, instant
minced 4
potato flakes
sliced 0.1 'h2 4
mushroom caps whole 24
pureed 1 % 8
~ ~ - - -
from page 2-451
58 VOLUME 6 . KI TCHEN MANUA L
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HOW TO USE A SPRAY DRYER
@ Prepare the liquid. Add a bulking agent and any fl avoring as needed. @ Begin spray-drying. The powder will coll ect in a receptacle at the bottom
of the machine. lft he liquid is too wet and sticky, or ifit clumps, increase
the amount of bulking agent, and set the inlet and outlet temperatures
5-10 ' C/ 10-20 ' F hi gher.
Pl ace the li qu id into the intake system of the spray dryer.
o Set the temperature of the liqui d spray. Use the dial at the top of the
machine to setthe spray or inl et-control temperature. We have found
70 ' c / 160 ' F to be a good starting point for kitchen-scale machines.
Set the air temperat ure or outlet temperature. The control is at the base
of the machine. Start at 50 ' C / 120 ' F.
Evaporat ive cooling keeps the jui ce much cool er as it dri es than the outl et
temperature would suggest.
SPRAY-DRIED BUTTERMILK Yields200 g
INGREDIENT
Buttermilk
Dextrose DE 36
Microcrystalline cellulose
(Avicel CG 200, FMC
Biopolymer brand)
Lactic acid
from page 2-443
QUANTITY
2 kg
20g
20g
0.4 g
SCALING
100%
1%
1%
0.04%
SPRAY-DRIED BLOOD ORANGE JUICE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Blood orange juice, clarifi ed 2 kg
Maltodextrin DE 9 100 g
Citric acid 20 g
from page 2-443
Prefreezing Temperatures
for Freeze-Dried Foods
Ingredient
fruit
eggs
ice cream
vegetables
meat
pastas, grains, and legumes
stocks, broths, and sauces
seafood
100%
5%
1%
Freeze to below
(' C) (' F)
- 45 - 49
- 40 - 40
- 35 - 31
- 30 - 22
- 25 -13
- 20 - 4
- 20 - 4
-15 5
PROCEDURE
@ Bl e nd togethe rthoroughly.
o Set spray drye r's inl et tempe rature to 90 ' c / 194 ' F. The out let temperat ure
should read about 57 ' C / 135 'F.
Spray-dry at full pressure unt il li quid is fully processed, about 2 h.
@ Store powder in airtight container.
Yields250 g
PROCEDURE
@ Blend together thoroughly.
o Set spray dryer's inl et temperature to 100 ' C / 212 ' F. The out let temperat ure
should read approximately 65 ' C / 149 ' F.
Spray-dry at full press ure until liquid is fully processed, about 2 h.
@ All ow spray-dried juice to cool completely. If powder clumps, grind in coffee grinde r,
and try adding more maltodextrin and using hi ghe r drying temperat ure for the next
batch.
Store powder in an ai rti ght containe r.
When freeze-drying liquids such as stocks, grind
the froze n li quid before spreading it out as a thin
layer for much faste r drying. A Pacojet does a
good job on the grinding.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 59
~
FREEZE-DRIED BEEF GRAVY GRANULES Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beefshank, ground 1.2 kg
Neutral oil 100 g
Carrots, thinly sliced 150g
Button mushrooms, thinly sliced 100g
Leeks, thin ly sliced 100g
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 100 g
Turnips, thinly sli ced 100g
Garlic heads, split 75g
Rendered suet, from above 50g
Redwine 150 g
Brandy 50g
White beef stock lkg
see page 6
Centrifuged beef stock, from above 750 g
160 Bloom gelatin 7.5 g
For re hydration:
Freeze-dried beef gravy granul es
Ultra-Sperse A
Salt
Water, boiling
fro m page 2454
12g
8g
2g
120 g
SALTED, FREEZE- DRIED LOBSTER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Water 100g 167%
Salt 7g 12%
Lobstertail 60g 100%
from page 2-454
60
SCALING
160%
13.3%
20%
13.3%
13.3%
13.3%
13.3%
10%
6.7%
20%
6.7%
133%
100%
1%
1.6%
1.1%
0.3%
16%
PROCEDURE
CD Panfry; brown unti l dark.
Remove beef from pan, and reserve.
Measure 50 g of rendered suet and reserve.
<3) Prepare vegetables as noted.
Brown vegetables together in suet until deep amber.
Deglaze vegetables.
o Add browned beef.
Transfer beef and vegetable mixture to pressure cooker.
Add stock, and pressure-cook at1 bar / 15 psi for1 h.
@ Strain through fine sieve.
@ Pour strained stock into centri fuge bottles.
@ Centrifuge at 27,5009 for 1 h, and strain through fine sieve.
@ Measure 750 g of stock, and cool.
@ Dispe rse gelatin into cold stock, and warm to dissolve gelatin.
@ Pour stock into 30.5 cm by 20 cm / 12 in by 8 in hotel pan, and freeze completely.
@ Wrap frozen stock sheet in cheesecloth.
@ Place perforated hotel pan (30.5 cm by 20 cm / 12 in by 8 in) onto anot her hotel
pan that is same size but deepe r.
@ Lay wrapped frozen stock sheet fl at on perforated pan; allow thawing stock to
drip down into deeper pan below it.
@ Freeze-dry cl arified broth for 12 h, by using tabl e on page 58.
@ Mi x together.
@ Whisk into dry blend.
@ Divide gravy into four servings.
Yields20 g
PROCEDURE
CD Mix until dissolved.
Brine, refrige rated, forl2 h. Cook sous vide in 57 C/ 135 OF bath for 20 min.
Freeze dry for12 h, by using the table on page 58.
<3) To use as seasoning, grate the dried lobster over food.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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RAMEN VEGETABLES
INGREDIENT
Mirin
Water
Soy sauce
Bamboo shoots
Sugar
Carrots, fine julienne
Young ginger, minced
Hon-shimeji mushrooms, tops
Scallions, greens only,
fine julienne
from page 2-455
QUANTITY
205g
205g
105g
100g
50g
100g
40g
100 g
100g
RAMEN STOCK POWDER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Japanese stock 300g
see page 6
Chinese everyday stock 250g
see page 6
Scallions, whites only,
109
thinly sliced
Kombu 6g
Smithfield ham, thinly sliced 6g
Garlic, finely minced 5g
Dried scallop {store-bought} 4g
Bonito flakes {katsuobushi} 2g
White soy sauce to taste
from page 2455
SCALING
205%
205%
105%
100%
50%
100%
40%
100%
100%
SCALING
100%
83%
3.3%
2%
2%
1.7%
1.3%
0.7%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine, vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 80 O( / 176 OF bath for 2 h.
o Cool.
Strain; discard liquid.
o Slice bamboo shoots 1 mm / y,. in thin.
Freeze-dry by using the table on page 58.
Blanch for 30 s.
(2) Shock in ice-water bath.
Freeze-dryas above.
Vacuum seal and cook so us vide in 90 0( / 194 of bath for1 h.
@ Freeze-dryas above.
@ Freeze-dryas above.
PROCEDURE
@ Combine and vacuum seal.
o Cook so us vide in 60 O( / 140 OF bath for 1 h.
Strain.
o Heat broth to 85 0( / 185 OF.
Yields 50 g
Yields38g
For more on how to assemble these components to
make Astronaut Ramen. see page 5247.
Add to simmering broth.
Stee p forlO s.
(2) Strain.
Season.
Freeze-dry by using the table on page 58.
@ Grind into powder.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
61
HOW TO CARBONATE FRUIT WITH DRY ICE
CD Put a layer of crushed dry ice in the bottom of a plast ic, sealable
container. Remember to use all safety procedures whe n hand ling dry ice.
o Seal cont aine r. The lid may pop off a couple oftimes due to a buil dup
of air press ure. That's fine . Just putthe lid back on.
o Place an insulat ing layer of paper towe ls or a clean, dry tea towel on
the ice layer. This protects the fruit fro m the ext re me temperature of
the dry ice.
Let the fru it carbonate. This wi ll take only 30 min for small fruits li ke
grapes and overnight for large r, whole fruits like apples and oranges.
Longer carbonation t imes re quire refrigeration.
Put t he cold fru it on the insulati ng laye r. Let the dry ice and fruit settle a
few minutes so that the "s team" pushes out the oxygen in the contai ner.
STRAWBERRY MILK SHAKE ADAPTED FROM JUA N MAR l ARZAK Yields 1.2 kg
INGREDIENT
Strawberri es,
was hed and trimmed
Fructose
Skim milk
Sweet whey powder
Locust bean gum
(Tic Gums brand)
Strawberry juice, from above
Dry ice
fro m page 2-473
ORANGE SODA
INGREDIENT
Navel orange juice
see page 2352
Fructose
Phosphoric acid
Gum arabic
Water
Orange essential oil
from page 2-472
62
QUANTITY
1 kg
400 g
600g
12g
1.2g
600g
100 g
QUANTITY
SCALING
167%
67%
100%
2%
(7%)'
0. 2%
(0.7%)'
100%
16.7%
PROCEDURE
CD Arrange in one layer, an d dust with fructose.
o Freeze.
Thaw at room tempe rature.
o Puree.
Strain through fine sieve and reserve 600 g of strawberry jui ce.
@) Disperse powders in milk.
(2) Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
CooL
Blend cooled milk into reserved jui ce.
@ Crush dry ice in blender to fine powde r.
@ Divide evenly among four glasses.
@ Pour 200 g of mi lk shake into each glass. Wait lO s; mil k shakes will bubbl e over.
@ Serve alongsi de our Mushroom Swiss Burger (see page 511).
'(% of the total weight of the strawberry juice and milk)
Yields340 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
300 g (from 100% CD Centri fuge at 27,500g for1 h.
o Strain through fine sieve.
700 g of o ranges)
30 g 10%
2g 0.67%
5g 1.67%
2g 0.67%
0.12 g 0.04%
(about
seven drops)
Combine with j uice, and reserve.
o Blend together unti l smooth.
Add 1.5 g of emulsion to sweetened juice, and
refri gerate re maining emulsion for late r use.
@) Hand-blend juice unti l smooth.
(2) Strain through fine sieve.
Transfer to soda siphon, a nd charge with two
carbon dioxi de cartridges.
Refrigerate soda in siphons fo r at least 2 h
before servi ng.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
for other methods of clarifying juice,
see page 2352.
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CARBONATED GOLDEN RAISINS YieldslOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Verjui ce (store-bought) 125 g 250% CD Combine.
Golden raisins 50 g 100% 0 Refrigerate for 2 h to hydrate.
Water 109 20% Transfe r to carbonating siphon, and charge wit h three
carbon dioxide cartridges for lY2 h before serving.
from page 5159
SHIGOKU OYSTER WITH FIZZY GRAPES,
FRESH WASABI, AND MISO POWDER
Yi e lds300 g
INGREDIENT
Shiro miso
Shigoku oysters (or
Kumamoto)
Muscat grapes
Verjuice (store-bought)
Rice wi ne vinegar
Salt
Wasabi (fresh)
Oyster juice, from above
Verjuice
Sucrose esters (Sucro,
Texturas brand)
from page 5200
QUANTITY
150g
120 g
(12 oysters)
120g
50g
5g
19
8g
40g
30g
0.7 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
125% CD Dehydrate at45 C/ l13 OF for12 h.
o Grind to fine powder, and rese rve.
100% Shuck, reservingjuice.
o Clean thorough ly.
Refrigerate oysters.
Strain jui ce, and meas ure 40 g.
100% (2) Blanch forl0 s.
42%
4%
0.8%
6%
33%
25%
0.58%
(7%)*
Shock in ice wate r.
Peel, and halve through stem end.
@ Combine.
Pour over peeled grapes.
@ Place grapes and juice into Siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of carbon dioxide for at
least 5 h before service, and refri gerate.
@ Grate finely, and reserve.
@ Combine.
@ Blend unti l smooth.
@ Remove carbonated grapes from siphon, and place
5h pieces at bottom of each bowl.
@ Top each bowl with one shucked oyster.
@ Garni sh wi th mi so powder and wasabi.
@ Whi p foam until frothy with handheld foaming wand.
@ Dress bowls with oyster-Verjui ce foam.
*(% of total weight of oyster juice and sour grape juice)
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 63
Best Bets for Tartares
Meat Recipe Texture Seasoning
beef traditional French steak tartare coarse raw shallot, raw egg yolk,
ketchup, capers, parsley, mustard,
Worcestershire, Tabasco sauce
Syrian kafta nayyeh fine mint, hot mustard, all spice,
raw onion, olive oil
Ethiopian kitfo fine chili powder, niter kibbeh
Wylie Dufresne's hanger steak coarse Bearnaise ice cream, scallion,
tartare pickled Asian pear, amaro
lamb Lebanese kibbeh fine bulgur wheat, raw garlic, cinnamon
langoustine Pierre Gagnaire's langoustine fine green mango, thyme nougat ine
and poppy seed tartare
mackerel horse mackerel (ajj) tartare moderately young ginger, shiso, sans ho pepper
with gi nger coarse
muskox Rene Redzepi 's musk ox tartare fine paste oxali s, juniper, tarragon
with oxalis and tarragon cream
oyster David Kinch's oyster and beef fine mustard, horseradish, hot sauce
tartare
salmon salmon tartare with citrus coarse makrud lime, sesame oil, chi li ,
yuzu
scallop Alain Passard's scall op and small cubes truffl e, artichoke, hazelnut oil,
truffle tartare lemon, tarragon
Heston Blumenthal 's scall op fine preserved lemon, white chocolate,
and white chocolate tartare caviar
tuna belly Nobu Matsuhisa's toro fine paste soy sauce, caviar
and caviar tartare
tuna loin Hawaiian poke medium ogo, candle nut, sweet onion,
cubes toasted-sesame oil
venison cured venison tartare small cubes blackberry, fennel , coffee,
with coffee smoked salt
from page 363
Note
the classic tartare
traditionally served with injera or
kocho
hanger steak is tenderized sous vide
(see page 2244)
young lamb is best
use only extremely fresh
langoustines
musk ox is dry-aged for 48 days
do not add citrus until just before
serving; otherwise, it will cook
surface offish
sear quickly over high heat before
chopping to develop sweetness
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HANGER STEAK TARTARE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 650 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Champagne vinegar 500g 125% CD Combine, and reduce until syrupy.
Whitewine 400g 100% Strain.
Shallots, diced 290g 72.5% Measure 45 g, and reserve.
Tarragon stems five stems
Water 260g 65% o Combine in small pot.
Sugar 140g 35% Heat whi le wh isking unt il sugar has dissolved completely.
Glucose 60g 15% Remove from heat, and cool syrup slightl y.
Eggyolks 625g 155% o Temperwith warm syrup.
Hand-blend .
Bearnaise reduction, 45g 11.25% Add to egg mixture, to taste.
from above
@ Blend mixture.
Salt 5g 1.25%
@ Freeze in Pacojet containers, or churn in ice cream maker.
Hanger steak 400g 100% @ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 50 ' C / 122 ' F bath for 3 h.
@ Cool quickly in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
Extra-virgin olive oil 6g 1.5% @ Sear one side of steak.
@ Cool completely, and dice finely.
Salt 4g 1% @ Season steak tartare.
Tarragon, minced 3g O.B% @ Pacotize ice cream, if using Pacoj et.
Tabasco sauce 1.5g 0.4% @ Spoon steak o nto plates, and garnish with spoonful of ice cream.
Black pepper 0.75g 0.2%
from page 365
BEEF AND OYSTER TARTARE ADAPTED FROM DAVID KINCH Yields 6BO g (four to eight portions)
INGREDIENT
American Wagyu beef
bavette or rib eye
Pemaquid oysters
Ketchup (Heinz brand)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Orleans mustard
Hot sauce (Crystal brand)
Worcestershire sauce
lemon juice
Whipping cream
Cream cheese
(Philadelphia brand)
Horseradish root,
finely grated
Rice vinegar
limejuice
Salt
from page 366
QUANTITY
400g
BOg
60g
40g
lBg
Bg
5g
3g
120g
100g
40g
to taste
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Trim off fat.
Dice finely.
20% Shuck, reserving juices.
o Keep refrigerated.
15%
10%
4.5%
2%
1.25%
0.75%
30%
25%
10%
Combine.
Adjust ketchup mixture to taste.
o Whip to stiff peaks.
Refrigerate.
Soften with paddle mi xer unti l sil ky.
@ Fold into cream cheese.
@ Fold cream cheese mi xture carefully into cold whipped cream.
@ Season whipped horseradish cream carefull y to taste; chi ll.
@ Mince raw oysters, and combine with reserved oyster juices.
@ Fold oysters into diced raw beef, and season with ketchup mixture as desired.
@ Pl ace spoonful of beef and oyster tartare on each plate, and garnish with spoonfu l of
horseradish cream.
MEAT AND SE AFO OD 65
,..
SCALLOP TARTARE INSPIRED BY ALAIN PASSARO
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Mayonnaise (Kewpie or other good 30 g
quality brand)
Black truffl e concentrate
see pageS7
Black truffle, minced
Lime juice
Roas ted-hazelnut oi l
Lime zest
Sea scall op (sushi quality), minced
Fuji apple, peeled and minced
Chives, minced
Lime juice
Salt
Brioche, frozen and sliced
2 mm IX. in thick
Freeze-dried scall op powder
see pageS8
Clarified unsalted butte r
Chive blossoms
from page 367
hh
20g
109
3g
3g
19
200 g
40g
0.75g
to taste
to taste
10 9
Bg
25g
as desi red
SCALING PROCEDURE
15% CD Whisk to form truffle mayonnais e.
10%
5%
1. 5%
1. 5%
0.5%
100%
20%
0.4%
5%
4%
12.5%
o Fold into truffl e mayonnaise.
Season sca ll op mixture generously.
o Chi ll .
Dust brioche sli ces with powder.
Panfry brioche unti l golden.
(2) Drain on paper towels.
Cut into desired shapes.
Spoon scall op tartare into serving bowls.
@ Garnish with brioche and chive blossoms.
VOL UME 6 . KITCHEN MANUA L
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SALMON TARTARE CORNETS ADAP TED FR OM THOMAS KELLER Yields 400 g (24 cornets)
INGREDIENT
Forthe cornets:
All-purpose flour
Sugar
Salt
QUANTITY
65g
20g
4g
Unsalted butter, softened 115 g
but still cool to touch
Eggwhites, cold 90 g
Black sesame seeds 20g
For the sal mon tartare:
Salmon fillet, preferably 150g
belly
Shall ot, finely minced 7g
Chives, finely minced 5g
Ext ra-vi rgin olive oil 2g
Koshersalt 2g
Lemon zest 1.6g
White pepper, to taste
fresh ly ground
Forthe red-oni on cream:
Red onion, finely minced 9g
Creme frakhe 115g
Salt to taste
White pepper, to taste
freshly ground
Chive tips, 24tips
2Y2 cm / 1 in long
from page 368
SCALING PROCEDURE
4.5% CD Combine and reserve.
13.5%
2.5%
77%
60%
13.5%
100%
4.5%
3.5%
1.5%
1.5%
1%
6%
77%
o Whisk until completely smooth and texture resembles mayonnaise.
Beat egg wh ites into flour mixt ure until smooth.
@) Whisk in softened butter by thirds until batte r is creamy.
Place circular stencil, 10 cm / 4 in. in diameter, on sili cone mat.
o Spread some batter evenly inside stenci l.
o Lift stencil off sheet, and repeat process to make 24 circles.
Sprinkl e over each batter circle.
Bake in 205 C / 400 OF oven until batter is set and rippling, 4-6 min.
@ Transfersheetwith circl es to open oven door to keep warm.
@ Flip one circl e over, sesame seed side down; place an 11. 5 cm / 4Y2 in cornet mold (size #35) at
bottom of circle.
@ If you are right-handed, place pointed end of mold to your left and open end to your right.
Tip of mold should touch lower left edge of circl e. Reverse if left-handed.
@ Fold bottom of circl e up and around mold.
@ Ro ll carefully upward and to left to wrap circle t ightly around mold. Leave circle wrapped
around its mold.
@) Repeat cornet molding process for remaini ng circles.
@ Arrange cornets seam side down and leaning against each othe r.
@ Bake in 205 C / 400 OF oven unti l golde n brown, another 3- 4 min, to set seams.
@ Take out of oven, and cool sli ghtl y fo r 30 s. Remove from molds.
@ Store in airtight containerfor 48 h maximum.
@ Remove skin and pi n bones.
Mince fine ly.
Add to minced salmon.
@) Fold in to combine.
@ Adjust for seasoning, if necessary.
@) Cover salmon tartare, and refrigerate for at least 30 min.
@ Rinse onion in straine r unde r cold water, and dry.
Whisk unt il soft peaks form.
@ Fold oni ons in.
@ Season.
@ Transferonion cream to pastry bag.
() Refrige rate for at least 1 h to firm up.
Pipe onion cream into each cornet.
Spoon 3 g of salmo n tartare over cream.
@ Garnish wit h single chi ve tip.
MEAT AND SEAfOOD 67
!l"-'
TENDER MEATS SOUS VIDE
CD Select an ingredient and target temperature. The table below provides
final core temperatures for many popular tender cuts; our preferences
are highlighted in bold.
@ Cook sous vide until the core temperature of the meat reaches the target.
Use a digital probe thermometer, as described on page 2243.
Optionally, sear the meat by using whichever method you prefer.
(3) Set sous vide bath to l ' C / 1.8 ' F above the target temperature selected.
Vacuum seal the meat with any fl avorings, fats, or liquids desired.
For options, see page 2270.
Season as desi red.
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Ingredient
beef, filet mignon
beef, flank
beef, hanger
beef loin (rib eye)
beef, strip steak
lamb, leg
lamb loin (rack)
veal loin
venison loin
pork loin
pork tenderloin
pork, shoulder blade
rabbit loin
suckling pig loin
from page 396
RACK OF LAMB
INGREDIENT
Rack oflamb, eight ribs,
frenched to loin
Rosemary sprigs
Olive oi l
Neutral oil
Salt
from page 5-29
Rare Medium rare Pink Medium
(0C) (OF) (OC) (OF) (OC) (OF) (OC) (OF) Note See page
50 122 53 127 56 133 62 144
54 129 56 133 59 138 62 144 cut thinly against the grain for maximum 144
tenderness, or use kalbi marinade
51 124 54 129 58 136 60 140
54 129 56 133 58 136 60 140 55
52 126 54 129 58 136 62 144 dry aged is idea l 287
54 129 57 135 60 140 65 149
54 129 57 135 59 138 62 144 68
52 126 54 129 56 133 60 140
50 122 53 127 58 136 60 140 high e nzymat ic activity can cause mushiness; 69
cooking to a hotter-than-core temperature is
recommended; use the same temperatures
for simi lar game
n/ a 58 136 60 140 62 144 94
n/ a 56 133 59 138 61 142 69
n/ a 58 136 60 140 64 147 see page 348 for specific cuts 89
n/ a 56 133 59 138 62 144 cook in 72 c / 162 OF bath to core 70
temperatures to preve nt mushiness
n/ a 56 133 58 136 60 140
(temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
QUANTITY SCALING
600g 100%
109
1.75%
100 g 16.5%
as needed
to taste
Yields400 g
PROCEDURE
CD Wrap rosemary sprigs around bone to prevent them from being pressed into meat.
(3) Vacuum seal rack with oil.
Cook lamb so us vide in 62 ' C/ 144 ' F bath to core temperature of 57 ' C/ 135 ' F, about40 min,
and then rest at room temperature for 10 min.
@ Sear lamb, fat side down, until golden. Slice between ribs into individual chops.
Season with salt.
IInlllMF ~ KITrHfN MANIIAI
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PORK TENDERLOIN WITH JUNIPER Yi elds500 g
INGREDIENT
Pork tenderloin, tendon
and silverskin removed
Juniper brine
see page 109
Water, cold
160 Bloom gelatin
leeks
ActivaRM
from page 536
QUANTITY
500g
200g
100g
10 9
300 g
5g
SCALING
100%
40%
20%
2%
(1%)*
60%
1%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
(3) Refri gerate for 12 h.
Drain, and refrigerate for 24 h.
o Disperse gelati n in water, and warm until fully dissolved.
Reserve.
@) Peel away first layer, a nd discard.
(2) Peel away next four layers, and cut into large sheets.
Vacuum seal leek sheets with gelatin mixture.
Steam for 4 min, shock in ice-water bath, and pat dry.
@ Arrange sheets on plastic wrap to make single large sheet, overlapping sheets every
1 cm/Ya in.
@ Dust sheets evenly with Activa.
@ Roll brined pork in leek sheets, twisting ends of plasti c wrap ti ghtl y to form roll.
@ Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate for 12 h to ensure leek wrapper adhe res to pork.
@ Cook pork tenderloin sous vide in 60 c / 140 of bath to core temperat ure of 59 c / 138 of,
about 50 min.
@ Slice to desired thickness, and serve wit h mushroom jus or red-eye gravy (see pages 37
or 225).
*(% of total weight of tenderloin, juniper brine, water, and leeks)
VENISON LOIN ROSSINI ADAPTED FROM YA NN I CK ALLENO Yi elds 1.1 kg (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Venison rack (first four 600g
ribs only), bones frenched
Olive oil 45g
Duck foie gras, sliced 200g
2.5 cm / 1 in thick
Truffle jus 150 g
see page 212
Game broth or brown 100 g
chicken stock
see page 14 or page 6
Semolina pasta shell s 50 g
Mushroom jus 30g
see page3?
Heavy cream, warmed 25g
and whipped
Salt to taste
Summertruffle, peeled, as desired
thinly sli ced and ring cut
into 1.25 cm / Y2 in circles
(optional)
from page 398
SCALING
100%
7.5%
33%
25%
16.5%
8.5%
5%
4%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
o Cook sous vide in 65 C / 149 OF bath to core temperature of 56 C / 133 OF, about25 min.
Let rest at room temperature forlO min.
o Reserve.
Vacuum seal.
@) Cook so us vide in 55 C / 131 F bath to core temperature of 54 C / 129 OF, about 20 min.
(2) Hold for further 20 min at temperature to pasteurize (optional).
Heat jus until just warmed.
Simmer pasta shells in game broth and mushroom jus until al dente.
@ Fold into pasta.
@ Slice veni son into individual rib cho ps.
@ Cover top of each loin portion with truffle sli ces, if using.
@) Sli ce fo ie gras into sections 1 em / 3/8 in th ick.
@ Season ve ni son, fo ie gras, a nd pasta.
@ Arrange evenl y among pl ates, and garni sh with truffl e jus.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 69
r --
/
Fl aky sea salt is a great way to finish
a cooked piece of meat or fish. It
adds crunchy bursts of saltiness.
The only probl em is that the salt
tends to dissolve into th e natural
jui ces by the time the d ish reaches
the table. He rve This came up with
a solution: toss the salt crystals with
oil or fat. A thin layer of oi l then
separates the flakes from the cook-
ingjuices and prevents the salt from
dissolving.
RIB EYE WITH CHERRY MUSTARD MARMALADE AND PORCINI
ADAPTED FROM ALA I N DUCASSE Yields 1 kg (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beef rib eye, bone in, 800g
5 cm /2 in thick
Unsalted butter 40g
Shallots, finely minced 50g
Fennel, finely minced 25 g
Neutral oil 12.5g
Pickled cherry brine 150g
see page 180
Red wine vinegar 50g
Red wine (Pinot Noir) 40g
Quatre epices 0.5g
see page48
Black peppercorns, 0.4 g
crushed
Juniper berries, fine ly O.4g
ground
Coriander seeds, finely 0.15g
ground
Pi ckled cherries, fin ely 100 g
minced
see page 180
Grain mustard 40g
Morello cherry puree 35g
Pressure-cooked mustard 8 g
seeds
see page lSI
Porcini (fresh) 100g
Neutral oil as needed
Salt to taste
from page 397
SO US VIDE RABBIT LOIN
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Rabbit loins, trimmed 450 g
and silver skin re moved
Activa RM or GS 10 g
Extra virgin olive oil 50g
Freeze-dried piquillo
109
pepper powde r
see page188
Salt to taste
from page 5242
SCALING
100%
5%
6%
3%
1. 5%
19%
6%
5%
0.05%
0.05%
0.05%
0.02%
12.5%
5%
4.5%
1%
12.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal toget her.
(3) Cook sous vide in 54 C / 129 OF bath to core
temperature of 53 C / 127 of, about 1y.. h.
Sear surfaces with blowtorch.
o Sweat until shall ots are tender but not browned.
Add to shall ot mixture.
Reduce to 100 g to form che rry marmalade.
o Whisk into marmalade.
Slice porci ni very thinly, and quickly saute until golde n
and cooked through.
Sli ce meat to desired th ickness.
@ Season meat, marmalade, and mushrooms, and
arra nge on pl ates.
Yields 450 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Dust rabbit loins evenly wit h Act iva.
o Position opposing loins, tapered sides together, to
2.2% form even cylinders 3 cm / 1y.. in. in diameter.
11%
2.2%
Wrap each pair of loins tightly in plast ic wrap, and
vacuum seal.
o Refrigerate fo r at least 6 h to allow enzyme to bind
loins.
Vacuum seal loins wit h oil.
Cook so us vide in 57 C / 135 OF bath to core
temperature of 56 C / 133 of, about 25 min.
o Dust rabbit loin with piquillo pepper powder, and
then sli ce o n bias, 1 cm / % in thick.
Season.
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TENDER POULTRY SOUS VIDE
CD Select an ingredi ent and target temperature. The tabl e below provides
final core temperat ures for many kinds of poultry, both red (top tabl e) and
white (bottom tabl e). We prefer the temperat ures in bold.
o Set sous vide bath to 1 ' cl 1.8 ' F above the target core temperature.
Vacuum seal the poultry wi th any fl avorings, fats, or liquids.
@) Cook sous vide until the core temperature of t he meat reaches the target.
Use a di gital probe thermometer, as described on pages 2-202 and 2243.
Pasteurize (optional). Hold at cooking temperature for the amount of
time indicated in the table to achi eve full pasteuri zation.
Optionall y, sear the meat. See page 2-270 for searing methods.
o Season as desired.
"Time to pasteuri ze" is the amount of time to hold after the core reaches the
specified temperature, if t he bath is 1 'cl 1.8 ' F above core temperature.
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Rare Hold to pasteurize Medium rare Hold to pasteurize Hold to pasteurize
Ingredient (h) (DC) (O F) (h) (min) See page
duck breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 5121
goose breast 50 122 nl a 52 126 5 h 15 min 55 151 40
grouse breast 50 122 n/a 52 126 5 h 15 min 58 136 30
ostrich fillet 50 122 n/ a 54 129 2 h17 min 58 136 30
pigeon breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h17 min 58 136 30 5125
from page 399 (temperatures in bold are those that we pref er)
Best Bets for Cooking Tender White Poultry So US Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Hold to Hold to Hold to Medium rare
(slightly pink) pasteurize Medium
(min) (DC) (OF)
pasteurize Medium well pasteurize
Ingredient
(DC) (OF) (min) (DC) (OF) (min) Note See page
chicken breast 58 136 30 61 142 13 65 149 2 5113
chicken "oyster" 61 142 15 65 149 2 68 154 1/2
guinea hen breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 best te nde ri zed with a 5135
. pheasant breast 56 133 35 54 129 2 h1 7 min 58 136 30
yoghurt- or e nzyme-
e nri c he d ma rinade
quail breast 50 122 12 h 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 73
turkey breast 54 129 2 h 17 min 56 133 35 58 136 30 brine 101
from page 399 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 71
...
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POULET AU FEU D'ENFER ADAPTED FROM FER NAN D POI NT
Yields 1.1 kg(fourto eight portions}
INGREDIENT
Chicken breasts, skin on
Chicken thighs, bone in
and skin on
Salt
Chicken wings, whole,
finely chopped
Shallots, thinly sliced
Unsalted butter
Garlic, thin ly sliced
Brown chicken stock
see page 6
White wine (dry)
Red wine vinegar
Heavy cream
Bl ack pepper, coarsely
ground
Salt
Clarifi ed unsalted butter
Chanterelles, washed
thoroughly
Chives, finely minced
(or chive blossoms)
from page 3100
QUANTITY
500g
500g
to taste
250g
100g
30g
20g
200g
90g
80g
50g
to taste
to taste
as needed
200g
30g
SCALING
100%
100%
50%
20%
6%
4%
40%
18%
16%
10%
40%
6%
PROCEDURE
o Season chicken pieces.
(3) Vacuum seal indi viduall y.
Cook breasts sous vide in 60 c / 140 OF bath to core temperature of 59 C/ 138 of, about
35 min.
o Hold fo r additional 20 min to pasteurize (optional).
Cook thighs sous vide in 65 C/ 149 OF bath for1V2 h.
Saute unt il golden, about12 min.
(2) Deglaze wings.
Reduce liquid by two-thirds unti l syrupy, abo utlO min.
Strain sauce.
@ Season vinegar sauce.
@ Heat thin fi lm of butter over high heat in two separate pans.
@ Saute chanterell es until just cooked through, and season wit h salt.
Sear cooked chicken pieces, skin side down o nl y, unt il skin is just cri sped, about 2 min.
@ Sli ce, and divide evenl y among plates.
@ Garnish with vinegar sauce, chantere ll es, and chi ves.
PIGEON WITH SHELLFISH BUTTER ADAPTED FROM ALAIN CHAPEL
Yields 550 g (four po rtions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pigeon breast roulade 240g
see page 3254
(two roulades)
Shellfish butter 80g
see page 29
Spot prawn tails, peeled 180g
(12 tail s,
15 g each)
Oyster mushrooms, small 80 g
Unsalted butter 12g
Salt to taste
Crystallized ginger, small 10 g
dice
from page 3100
SCALING
100%
33%
75%
33%
5%
4%
PROCEDURE
o Vacuum seal toget her.
(3) Cook sous vide in 55 C / 131 F bath to core temperat ure of 54 "C / 129 of, about 25 min.
Hold for additional 2Y2 h to pasteuri ze (o ptional).
o Re move roulades from bag, and let rest for 5 min.
Reserve infused shellfish butter in warm place.
Vacuum sea l tai ls.
(2) Cook sous vide in 50 "C / 122 OF bath to core temperature of49 C / 120 "F, about 12 min.
Saute mushrooms until just cooked through.
Season mushrooms, pigeon, and prawns.
@ Slice each rou lade into six pieces, discard ends, and divide among fo ur plates.
@ Garni sh evenly with prawn tail s, she ll fis h butter, mushrooms, and candied ginger.
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QUAIL WITH APPLE-VINEGAR EMULSION AND WATER CHESTNUTS
Yields 350 g
ADAPTED FROM CHARLIE TROTTER
INGREDIENT
Quail, whole, semi-
boneless
Confit cure mix
see pagel06
Brown chicken stock
see page 6
Apple cider (fresh)
Apple cider vinegar
Shallots, thinly sliced
Unsalted butter
Salt
Chervil
Unsalted butter, cubed
QUANTITY
400g
(four whol e)
60g
200g
125 g
sOg
50g
30 g
to taste
5g
40g
Water chestnuts, peeled, 40 g
finely diced, and blanched
in boilingwaterfor2 min
Sweet pickled apples, 30 g
brunoise
see page 3348
Salt to taste
Tarragon, thinly sliced 2 g
Crisp Coat UC or potato 100 g
starch
(National Starch brand)
Quatre e pices 20 g
see page48
Frying oil as needed
Quatre epices
see page 48
as needed
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
15%
50%
31%
12.5%
12.5%
7.5%
1.25%
10%
10%
7.5%
0.5%
25%
5%
@ Pack cure evenl y onto quails.
(3) Vacuum seal together.
Refrigerate for 2 h.
o Rinse off cure, and vacuum seal quails indi vidually.
Cook sous vide in 55 O( / 131 of bath to core temperature of 54 O( / 129 of, about25 min .
Hold at 54 C / 129 OF for another 2 h 17 min to pasteuri ze (optional) .
o Remove from bags, and allow to restfor15 min .
Reduce over high heat to 100 g, and strain.
Blend into reduction until fu ll y emul sified.
@ Season.
@ Whisk into apple-vinegar emulsion, and reserve warm.
@ Saute water chestnuts and pickl ed apples in butter until just warmed through, about 2 min, to
make topping.
@ Season topping.
<9 Fold into pickled apple and wate r chestn ut topping, and reserve.
@ Dry bl end powde rs.
@ Dredge cooked quails, and shake off excess coating.
@ Dee p-fry quails in 230 C / 450 of oil for 35 s.
@ Pl ace in center of plates.
@ Garnish with apple a nd water chestnut topping, and apple-vinegar emulsion.
@ Dust with additional quatre epices, if desired.
..,., from page 3101
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MEAT AND SEAfOOD 73
<
FISH AND SHELLFISH SO US VIDE
G) Select an ingredient and target temperature. The tabl e below provides
final core te mperatures for many kinds offish. We prefer the temperatures
in bold.
@ Optionally, sear the food by using whichever method you prefer.
See page 2270 for searing options.
Season as desired.
(3) Vacuum seal the fish or shellfish with any flavorings, fats, or liquids.
Cook sous vide until the core temperature of t he food reaches the target.
Use a digital probe thermometer, as described on page 2243.
The times and temperatures given for "barely cooked" and "tender," and
some of the those for "firm," will not pasteurize the fish. See page 1190 for
more food safety informat ion.
Best Bets for Cooking Fish So US Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Barely
cooked Tender Firm Flaky
Ingredient
(oC) (oF) (oC) (OF) (oC) (oF) (OC) (OF) Note
black cod 40 104 45 113 48 118 52 126
cod' 38 100 41 112 45 114 49 122 use same temperatures for cooking ling cod
eel n/ a n/ a 54 129 59 138
escolar 38 100 41 112 46 115 50 122
hake' n/ a 44 111 50 122 54 129
halibut 40 104 42 108 45 113 50 122
halibut cheek n/ a 45 113 48 118 52 126 use same temperatures for monkfish and cod cheeks
hamachi 34 93 38 100 40 108 46 115
John Dory n/ a 45 113 48 118 50 122
mackerel 40 104 42 108 46 115 48 118 if cooking to less than 46 C / 115 of, brine before cooking
monkfish' 42 108 45 113 48 118 50 122
rockfish n/ a 44 III 48 118 52 126
salmon' 38 100 41 112 43 109 46 115
sardine 34 93 38 100 42 108 46 115
sea bass n/ a 45 113 48 118 50 124
skate n/ a 48 118 52 126 54 129
snapper n/ a 48 118 50 122 52 126
sole n/ a 42 108 45 113 50 122
sturgeon' n/ a 46 115 50 122 54 129
trout 37 99 40 104 46 115 48 118
tuna loin' 38 100 42 108 45 113 48 118 if cooking to 54 C / 129 of, brine in 4% saline solution,
54 129 refri gerated, for 3 h before cooking
tuna belly' 38 100 43 109 48 118 50 122
turbot n/ a 44 111 49 120 52 126
from page 3102
' (Many stocks of these species are considered overharvested and are protected in several parts of the world. We recommend always
checking the status offish before purchasing. For updates and more details, see the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch web site
at www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx. Temperatures in bold are those that we prefer.)
7A 1/ n I II U t" t. v, T rue u u 4 U II II I
See page
76
next
next
112
165
5147
284
77
78
5175
78
78
319
77
76
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LING COD WITH BERGAMOT-INFUSED MilK Yields 700 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM MARTiN BERASATEGUI
INGREDIENT
Verjuice (store-bought)
Golden raisins
Milk
Heavy cream
Bergamot zest, thinly sliced
Salt
Lingcod fillet, skin on
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
from page 3103
QUANTITY
50g
30g
525 g
25g
60g
to taste
400g
80g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
12.5% @ Vacuum seal together.
7.5% 0 Cook sous vide in 80 C/ 176 OF bath for20 min.
Cool completely.
8) Drain plumped raisins, and reserve for garnish.
130% Combine.
6.25% Bringto boil, and the n remove from heat.
15% 0 Add to hot milk.
Steep, covered, for 10 min, and then strain.
Season infused milk, and reserve.
100% @ Divide evenly into four 100 g portions.
20% @ Vacuum seal individually, wit h 20 g of oil each.
@ Cook sous vide in 41 C / 106 OF bath to core temperature of 40 c / 104 of, about 25 min.
@ Season fish.
G Arrange one portion in each offour bowls .
@ Garnish with plumped raisins and infused milk.
If fresh bergamot is unavailable, use bergamot essent ial oi l, page 2310.
ESCOlAR WITH RED WINE BUTTER ADAPTED FROM ER I C RIPERT Yields 500 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
and sliced 1 mm /\1" in thick
Neutral oil
Salt
Red wine (dry)
Red wine vinegar
Shallot, minced
Tarragon
Black peppercorns
Thyme
Red wine reduction,
from above
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Unsalted butter
Brown butter
see page 4213
Salt
Escolar fillet
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Shallot, minced
Tarragon leaves, thinly sliced
Black pepper, coarsely ground
Sea beans, cut into
5 cm /2 in lengths
from page 3104
QUANTITY
150g
(one potato)
as needed
to taste
100g
45g
109
2g
19
0.5g
30g
0.5g
40g
30g
to taste
300g
80g
to taste
3g
19
to taste
4-5 beans
SCALING PROCEDURE
50% @ Deep-fry in 150 C / 300 OF oil unti l crisp and golden brown.
o Drain on paper towels.
Season chips.
8) Reserve.
33% Combine.
15% Reduce to 30 g.
3.3%
0.7%
0.3%
0.17%
10%
0.17%
(7.7%)*
13.3%
10%
100%
27%
o Blend into reduction until fully emulsifi ed.
Blend into reduction.
Strain red wine butter through fine sieve into small saucepan.
@ Season red wine butter.
@ Reserve, keeping warm.
@ Cut fillet into four 75 g portions.
@ Vacuum seal individually with 20 g of olive oil each.
G Cook sous vide in 39 c / 102F bath to core temperature of 38 C / 100 OF, about
20min.
@ Season fillets.
@ Slice, and arrange in center of servi ng plates.
1% Combine.
0.3% @ Garnish center of fish slices.
@ Dri zzle warm red wine butter around plates.
Top fish sl ices with potato crisps and sea beans.
*(% of total weight of red wine reduction)
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 75
~ -
David Kinch recommends aging
very fresh turbot or sole for three
to four days to develop flavor and
make the fl es h more te nder. Ask
your fishmonger when the fish
was caught to make the prope r
adjustment.
BLACK COD
TURBOT WITH ONION AND MARROW BROTH Yields 800 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM DAVID KINCH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White onions, peeled and 1.5 kg
halved widthwise
Veal marrow bones, cut 1.5 kg
into 7.5 cm / 3 in lengths
Turbot, on bone 600 g
Unsalted butter 40 g
Roasted onion juice, from 250 g
above
Propylene glycol alginate 0.2 g
(FMC BioPolymer brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.2 g
CP Kelco brand)
Rendered veal marrow fat, 50 g
from above
Amaranth leaves
Olive oi l
Salt
from page 3105
100 g
109
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
250%
250%
100%
6.5%
42%
0.03%
(0.08%)*
0.03%
(0.08%)*
8.5%
17%
1.5%
@ Place in bottom of deep rectangular baking pan, and
cover with foil.
o Bake in 230 ' C/ 450 ' F oven for1 h.
Lower oven temperature to 90 ' C / 200 ' F, and bake
for 8 h until most ofthe juice has rendered and
coll ected in bottom of pan.
o Pass roasted onion juice through fine sieve.
@) Measure 250 g.
Reserve cold.
o Bake in 175 ' c / 350 ' F oven for 30 min to render fat, or
render a nothe r way (see page 3145).
@) Strain through fin e sieve, and measure 50 g of
rendered marrow fat.
Cut into fo ur equal portions.
@ Vacuum seal individually with 10 g of butter each.
@ Cook sous vide in 50 ' c / 122 ' F bat h to core
temperature of49 ' C/ 120 ' F, about25 min.
@ Blend gums into o nion jus until fully dispersed.
@ Bring to simmer.
@ Blend into warm onion jus unti l emulsified.
@ Reserve warm.
@ Saute leaves until just wilted.
@ Season jus, amaranth leaves, and turbot.
@ Arrange equally in four shallow bowls.
*(% of total weight of onion jus)
Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Black cod fillet
Salt
Sugar
500g
7g
3g
Condrieu wine (optional) as needed
Condrieu butter
see page 25
from page 5173
150 g
100% @ Cut fillet into fo ur equal portions.
1.4% 0 Combine with salt and sugar.
0.6% Vacuum seal portions individually, and refri gerate
30%
for1 hto cure.
o Remove cured fish from bags.
@) Rinse and pat dry.
To cook fish with Girardet method, place fish portions in shallow pan and pour wine around
to submerge fish, leaving its skin exposed.
o Pl ace fish under hot broiler and cook unti l wine reaches 55 ' c / 131 ' F, and skin has darkened
and crisped, 6-10 min.
@) Remove pan from under broiler and wait for core temperature of fish to reach 52 ' C / 125 ' F,
about5 min.
Remove fish from pan and rest for 5 min at room temp.
@ Alternatively, vacuum seal fish and cook sous vide in 53 ' C / 127 ' F bath to core temperat ure
of 52 ' C / 125 OF, about 25 min.
@ Serve with warm butter.
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STEELHEAD TROUT CONFIT WITH FENNEL SALAD
ADAPTED FROM TETSUYA WAKUDA
Yields 560 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Steelhead trout fillet 400g
Garlic-infused olive oil 100g
see page 28
Thyme essential oil O.lg
Rosemary essential oil 0.05g
Fennel bulb BOg
Black pepper, finely to taste
crushed
lemon juice to taste
lemon-scented olive oil to taste
see page 28
Salt to taste
Kombu chips, finely Bg
chopped (store bought)
Flakysalt to taste
Steelhead trout caviar 30g
from page 3106
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Remove skin.
Divide fillet into four100 g portions, and reserve.
25% Whisk together.
0.025%
0.013%
20%
2%
7.5%
e Vacuum seal each fish portion individually with 15 g of oil.
Reserve remaining 40 g of garlic oil for garnis h.
Refrigerate portions for 2 h to marinate.
o Cook so us vide in 43 ' c / 109 ' F bath to core temperature of 42 ' C / lOB ' F, about 25 min.
Shave very thin on mandoline.
Season fenne l shavings.
@ Pl ace portion offish on each plate.
@ Dress each portion with fenne l salad and kombu chips.
@ Season with flaky salt, and drizzle garlic oi l around plates.
@ Garnish fish evenly, and serve.
SOUS VIDE MONKFISH PAVE Yields 450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Salt 2Bg
lemon zest, grated 0.4 g
Monkfish fillet 400g
Extra virgin olive oil as needed
Baby zucchini, sliced 200g
1 mm / X6 in thick
Extra virgin olive oil BOg
Spice mix emulsion 100g
see page 309
from page 5155
SCALING
7%
0.1 %
100%
50%
20%
25%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine to make cure.
Dust cure evenl y over all surfaces of fi ll et.
Vacuum seal, and refrige rate for 45 min.
e Rinse fillet, and pat dry.
Cut cured monkfish into four squares of100 g each.
Brush top surface of each square with ol ive oil.
o lay zucchini sli ces neatly and in overlapping fashion, on top surface of each square to
resemble fish scales.
Vacuum seal each square individually with 20 g of olive oil.
Cook monkfish sous vide in 4B ' C / 119 ' F bath to core temperature of 47 'C / 117 ' F, about
25min.
@ Pour warm emulsion around fish.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 77
?---
SOUS VIDE SNAPPER
INGREDIENT
Sambal badjak
(store-bought)
QUANTITY
70 g
Kejap man is (store-bought) 15 g
Shaoxingwine 10 g
Snapper, fi ll eted 250 g
and ski nned
Salt
Malaysian aromatic oil
see page 30
Crispy snapper skin
see page 5168
from page 5169
to taste
25g
four pieces
SOUS VIDE SALMON
INGREDIENT
Water
Salt
Sugar
Salmon fj ll et
(preferably wi ld king)
Extra virgin olive oi l
Root vegetable jus,
warmed
see page36
from page 5162
QUANTITY
150 g
9g
5g
400g
80g
140 g
Yields350 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
28%
6%
4%
100%
10%
SCALING
37.5%
2.3%
1.25%
100%
20%
35%
@ Combine.
o Pass through fine sieve, and reserve.
Cut snapper into fo ur 60 g portions.
@) Brush sieved mixture in layer1 mm I Jl6 in th ick, onto snapper portions.
Season.
Cook snapper portions sous vide in 52 e / 125 OF bath to core temperature of 51 e / 123 OF,
about20 min.
(2) Garnish.
Yields400 g
PROCEDURE
@ Whi sk together until sugar is fu ll y dissolved to make brine.
o Cut fi ll et into fo ur100 g portions.
Soak in brine for 7 h. For more deli cate texture, reduce amount of salt to 5.5 g (1.35%), and
brine for 24 h.
@) Drain.
Vacuum seal each salmon portion with 30 g of oil.
Refrigerate for 2 h for brine to permeate salmon.
(2) Cook salmon sous vide in 41 e l 106 OF bath to core temperature of 40 e 1104 OF, about
25 min.
Serve wit h warm jus.
SKATE PAVE WITH BREAD CRUST Yields480 g
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Skate wings 600g 100% @ Dust evenly with Activa, ens uri ng grain of all wings faces same direction.
o Stack wings, alternating th ick and thin ends, and vacuum seal.
(fourl25 g wings)
ActivaRM as needed
White bread, crustless 80 g
and cut into four sl ices,
3 mm 1 Ya in thick
Clarified unsalted butter as needed
see page 4213
Salt to taste
from page 5159
7Q
13%
Refrigerate for at least 6 h for proteins to bond.
@) Remove from bag, and cut into 100 g squares.
Vacuum seal individuall y, and refrigerate.
Cut bread sli ces into squares slightly larger than skate squares, and reserve.
(2) Cook skate sous vide in 52 e 1126 OF bath to core temperature of 51 e / 124 OF, about25 min.
Remove skate port ions from bags, pat dry on pape r towels, and pl ace sli ce of bread on each.
Sear, bread sides down, in clari fied butter unt il bread is crisp and golden.
@ Season.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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VARIATION: Cooking Shellfish Sous Vide
CD Select an ingredient and target temperature from the table below.
@ Prep as indicated, and then vacuum seal as in step 2 on page 74. Blanch
cockles, clams, mussels, and razor clams by vacuum sealing them while
in t he shell and immersing the bag in boi ling water for 2 min, and then
shucking. Use a cl ean bag when vacuum sealing the shellfish again for
cooking.
Follow steps 3-5 on page 74.
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Shellfish So US Vide
Ingredient Prep
cockles or
clams
blanched and shucked"
langoustine shell ed
lobster claws shelled
lobster tails shelled
blanched and shucked"
oysters shucked
razor clams blanched and shucked*
scallops
shrimp
(prawns)
from page 3103
whole
peel ed
SOUS VIDE MUSSELS
INGREDIENT
Live mussels, rinsed
and beards removed
Shallots, thinly sliced
Fennel, thinly sliced
White wine (dry)
Pastis (or Ouzo)
Preserved lemon zest,
minced
see page 174
Bay leaf
from page 5154
QUANTITY
250g
70g
50g
50g
5g
2g
0.5g
Core temperature for doneness
Barely cooked Tender
(oC) (OF) (min) (OC) (OF) (min) (oC)
48 118 10 56 133 8 65
48 118 15 56 133 12 70
54 129 to core 60 140 to core 65
46 115 to core 54 129 to core 59
50 122 to core
62 144 10 65 149 10 68
45 113 10 48 118 10 52
45 113 10 60 140 10 65
42 108 to core 50 122 to core 54
48 118 to core 60 140 7 80
54 129 to core
(temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Vacuum seal.
o Cook in boil ing water for 3 min.
Chill in ice-water bath.
@) Shuck, reserving mussels and juice.
Strain juice, and reserve.
Firm
(oF) (min) Note
149 5 cook in its own juice
158 6 sear quickly after
cooking
149 to core best cooked in butter
138 to core best cooked in butter
154 7 cook in its own juice
126 7 cook in its own juice
149 5 siphon only
129 to core
176 4
28%
20%
@ Combine mussels with reserved juice and remaining ingredients.
o Vacuum seal.
20%
2%
1%
0.2%
Cook mussels sous vide in 65 C / 149 OF bath for 12 min.
Serve warm with toasted garlic bread.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
See page
36,5229
next, 81
below
81
85,171
next, 81
Yields450 g
79
~
19TH-CENTURY-STYLE LOBSTER WITH SHERRY AND COCOA Yields 450 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM OLIVIER ROELLINGER
INGREDIENT
Lobster she ll s and
trimmings
Shall ot, minced
Neutral oi l
Shell fish stock
see page 6
Amonti ll ado sherry
Chervi l t ips
Coriander seeds, toasted
Annatto powder
Tarragon leaves
Vani ll a seeds and pulp
Unsweetened cocoa
powder
Unsalted butter, cubed
Lime juice
Lime zest
Salt
Sherry vi negar
Lobstertail s, shell ed
Unsalted butter
Salt
Green mango, brunoise
from page 5154
QUANTITY
50 g
50 g
25g
150g
75 g
1 g
O.B g
0.5g
0.3 g
0.2g
O.lg
20g
to taste
to taste
to taste
to taste
300g
(four 75 g tails)
BOg
to taste
BOg
SCALING PROCEDURE
17% 0 Saute together until golden, about 7 min.
17%
B.5%
50%
25%
0.3%
0.25%
0.15%
0.1%
0.05%
0.03%
6.7%
100%
27%
27%
o Deglaze pan with shell s.
o Reduce stock mi xture to 90 g, and remove from heat.
o Whisk into stock reduction.
Cover, and steep for10 min.
@ Strain.
(2) Warm infused reduction, and bl e nd butter in unti l fu ll y emulsified.
Season sauce, and reserve warm.
Vacuum seal individually with 20 g of butter each.
@ Cook sous vide in 51 ' C / 124 ' F bat h to core temperature of 50 ' C / 122 ' F, about 20 min.
@ Season.
@ Garnish with mango and sauce.
SHRIMP COCKTAIL I NSPIRED BY GRANT ACHATZ Yields 2BO g (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Raspberry gazpacho
see page33
160 Bloom gelatin
Spot prawn tai ls, peeled
Extra-virgin olive oil
Garlic clove, crushed
Tarragon sprigs
Celery, peeled, brunoise
QUANTITY
300g
6g
200g
(about B)
30g
3g
2g
6g
Piqui ll o pepper, brunoise 6 g
Green olives, thinly sli ced 6 g
Horseradish, fin ely grated to taste
Salt to taste
from page 3107)
SCALING
100%
2%
67%
10%
1%
0.7%
2%
2%
2%
PROCEDURE
o Disperse gelat in into 75 g of gazpacho.
o Bring to boil to fu ll y hydrate, and whisk into remainde r of gazpacho base.
o Cast o nto nonstick baking sheet, 2 mm / 1/16 in thick.
o Freeze completely, and cut into 3.75 cm / 1Y, in rectangles. Reserve frozen unt il use.
Vacuum seal together, and cook in 60 ' C / 140 ' F bat h for 7 min.
@ Cool completely and remove from bag.
(2) Reserve refrigerated until use.
Ali gn two prawns down center of each plate.
Season with salt, and garnish with celery, piqui ll o, olives, and horseradish as desired.
@ Lay frozen sheet over prawns and garnish, and allow to thaw and drape over other
components of dish, about 5 min, befo re serving.
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OYSTER ESCABECHE Yields 12 pieces
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Virginica oysters,
or similar
Extra virgin olive oil
lime juice
Sweet onions, finely
minced
White wine vinegar
Bird's eye chili, thinly
sli ced
Bay leaf, julienne
Salt
from page 5206
12 oysters
45g 100%
24 g 53%
12 g 27%
6g 13%
0.8g 1.8%
0.2g 0.4%
to taste
STEAMED LIVE SPOT PRAWN
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
live spot prawns 12 prawns
from page 5183
POACHED LOBSTER TAIL
CD Shuck and cl ean oysters wel l.
@) Vacuum seal oysters, and the n poach so us vide in
45 C/ 113 F bath for 10 min.
Cool in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
o Combine to make escabeche.
Marinate oysters in escabeche, refri gerated, for
45 min.
Yields 12 prawns
PROCEDURE
CD Steam at 90 C / 195 OF with 100% re lative humidity
fo r 3 min. Alternatively, vacuum seal in single eve n
layer, and cook so us vide in 45 C / 114 F bath fo r
20 min.
@) Shock in ice-water bath .
Peel and refrigerate until use.
Yields240g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lobstertails
Carotene butter or
unsalted butter
see page 40
Salt
Coconut-lobster,
emulsion, warmed
see page319
from page 5187
240 g (fourtai ls) 100%
100 g 42%
to taste
100g 42%
CD Vacuum seal togethe r.
@) Cook sous vide in 52 C / 125 OF bath to core
temperature of 51 C / 123 F, about 10 min.
Rest cooked lobster for 2 min, and then sear each side
for10 s to ti ghte n fl esh.
o Cut each tail into three equal medalli ons, and season.
Season medalli ons, and serve with e mul sion.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
8 1
TOUGH MEATS, POULTRY, AND SHELLFISH
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry
Cook sous vide
Pressure-cook
at1 bar / 15 psi
(gauge) Tender and juicy
Ingredient
(OC) (OF) (h) (oC)
chicken leg and thigh 64 147 11/2 68
62 144 15
chicken wing 62 144 12 72
duck leg 60 140 48 62
62 144 12
68
duck tongue 88 190 5
guinea hen l eg 60 140 4
pigeon leg 65 149 3 68
quail leg 60 140 12 68
turkey leg 62 144 8 65
turkey wing 58 136 12 62
Flaky
(Of)
154
162
144
154
n/ a
n/ a
154
154
149
144
(h) (min)
3 15
8
18 35
8
25
7
3
2
18
from page 3108 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
SOUS VIDE DUCK CONFIT PAVE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Salt 200g 24.5%
Allspice berri es 109 1.2%
Thyme 8g 1%
Garlic, thinly sliced 5g 0.6%
Star anise 1.9 g 0.23%
Rosemary 1 g 0.12%
Bay leaves 0.9g 0.11%
Black pepper 0.8g 0.1%
Coriander seeds 0.8g 0.1%
Orange zest, grated O.lg 0.01%
Duck legs, boneless 825g 100%
PROCEDURE
<D Combine.
o Grind coarsely to form rub.
Coat duck legs with rub.
@ Cure in refrigerator for 6 h.
Note
best cured before cooking
make sure to debone while sti ll hot
best marinated in yogurt or other
tenderizing solut ion before cooking
cure with confit mix 2 h before cooki ng
inj ect with 10% by weight of7% brine
brine before cooking
Rinse legs, and pat dry on paper towel - lined tray.
Activa RM 8g 1% Dust meat side of cured duck legs with Activa.
See page
119,5113
below,
105
581
next
5125,72
3174
204, 103
Yields 850 g
(7%)*
o Pack together, with skin sides faci ng out, in mold, 10 cm by 20 cm / 4 in by 8 in, and 5 cm / 2 in
from page 582
R?
deep.
Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 60 . ( / 140 of bath for 48 h.
@ Panfry duck confit (or use griddl e), skin sides only, until golden and cri sp.
@ Carve into slices 1.5 cm /3;'; in thick.
*(% of toto I weight of cured duck legs)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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SOUS VIDE GUINEA HEN
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Live culture Greek-style 50 g
strained yogurt
Garlic, thinly sliced
Guinea hen breasts,
boneless and skinless
Guinea hen thighs,
boneless and skinless
Tagine base, warmed
see page39
from page 5137
25g
150 g
150 g
100g
Yields250 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
33%
16.5%
100%
100%
67%
@ Combine.
Vacuum seal 25 g of yogurt mixture with breasts.
o Vacuum seal re maining 25 g of yogurt mi xture with t hi ghs.
@) Marinate breasts and thighs, refrigerated, for 5 h.
Cook thighs sous vide in 62 C / 144 OF bath for 5 h.
@) Cook breasts sous vide in 55 C / 131 F bath to core temperature of 54 C / 129 of, about
30 min. Hold breasts at temperat ure for 12 min to ensure proper pasteurization.
o Slice guinea hen into pieces 1 cm / Va in thick.
Serve with guinea hen.
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Shellfish
Cook sous vide
Barely cooked Firm Tender braised
Pressure-cook
at1 bar / 15 psi
(gauge)
Ingredient
(oC) (OF) (min) (OC) (oF) (min) (OC) (OF) (h) (min) Note See page
abalone 45 113 15 88 190 8 h
octopus n/a 80 176 3h
geoduck 50 122 30 65 149 7
snail n/a 65 149 15
squid and 50 122 10 65 149 5
cuttlefish
100 212 12
85 185 4
65 190 1%
68 154 5
65 149 4
35
25
15
20
30
freezing and thawing before
cooking can increase
tenderness
the siphon is quite firm; the
bell y meat is far more tender
apply same temperatures for
cooking sea c ucumbers
next
85
314
5239
next
from page 3108 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
SOUS VIDE BRAISED SNAILS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
White chicken stock 600g 150%
see page 11
Burgundy snai ls 400g 100%
(canned), cleaned
Carrots, peeled and thinly 200g 50%
sliced
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 180g 45%
Salt 15 g 3.75%
Thyme 1.5g 0.4%
Bay leaf O.4g 0.1%
Montpellier butter 150g 37.5%
(optional)
see page 298
from page 5243
The times and temperatures given for "barely
cooked" wil l not pasteurize the food; other time-
temperature combinat ions indicated wi ll. See page
1190 for more food safety informat ion.
PROCEDURE
@ Vacuum seal together.
Cook sous vide in 68 C/ 154 OF bath for 5 h.
o Drain, and reserve juices.
@) Pick out snail meat, and discard vegetables and aromatics.
Vacuum seal snails with reserved juices, and refrigerate unti l use.
@) To serve, reheat snails in 58 C / 136 OF bath for about 20 min.
o Melt in pot over low heat and stir in snail s.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
Yields550 g
83
"/
SQUID SICILIAN LIFEGUARD-STYLE I NSP IR ED BY MARIO BATALI Yields550 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Garlic, thinly sliced 10 g
Salt 4 g
Lemon zest 3 g
Squid tubes, cut vertically 200 g
to make sheets and surface membranes peeled
Extra-virgin oli ve oi l
Tomato confit, pureed
see page 179
Israe li couscous, boiled in 2% brine
until al de nte, and then cooled
Pine nuts, toasted
Dry cu rrants
Caper berries, thinly sli ced
Tomato water
see page 40
Red wine vinegar
Salt
Scall ions, whites only, fine julie nne
Chili o il
seepage29
from page 3113
10 9
75g
60g
18g
15g
109
150 g
to taste
to taste
30g
20g
5% CD Combine to make cure.
2%
1.5%
100% (3) Spread cure over surface of sq uid sheets.
Vacuum seal, and refri gerate for 15 min.
5%
37.5%
30%
9%
7.5%
5%
75%
15%
10%
@) Brush off cure, and cut sheets into thin strips.
Vacuum seal strips with o il, and reserve.
Combine, and heat unt il just warmed through.
(2) Reserve tomato confit mixture.
Cook squid strips sous vide in 65 C / 149 OF bath for 4 min.
Season tomato water generously.
@ Spoon reserved warm tomato confit mi xture into bottom of bowls.
@ Top wit h squid strips, and garni sh with scallions and chili o il.
@ Pour seasoned tomato water around each portion.
ABALONE AND FOIE GRAS SHABU-SHABU WITH YUBA AND ENOKI
Yields 900g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Abalone 120 g 100% CD Steam at 100 c / 212 OF fo r12 h. Alternat ively, vacuum seal and cook sous vide in 90 C / 194 OF
Raw foie gras
Soy yuba
see page 249
Enoki mushroom
120g
120g
60g
Pea vines 80 g
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300 g
Rendered foie gras fat 70 g
Hon dashi
see page lS
Soy sauce
Mirin
Agave syrup
Rice vinegar
Foie gras fat or unsalted
butter
from page 5203
All
350g
120g
SO g
24g
20g
80g
100%
100%
50%
66.6%
250%
58%
292%
100%
41.7%
20%
17%
66.7%
bath for 16 h.
(3) Reserve.
Cut into sli ces 3 mm / y. in thick.
@) Refri gerate.
Measure and reserve.
Cut from stem into individua l mushrooms.
(2) Select tender leaves and tips, and refrigerate.
Sweat onions unti l very tender, about 30 min.
Deglaze onions, and simmer for 30 min to make shabu shabu broth.
@ Strain.
@ Centri fuge at 27,500g for 1 h.
@ Cool and refrigerate.
@ Combine to make tosazu (dipping sauce).
@ Refrigerate.
@ Bring broth to boi l, and maintain at simmer in shabu shabu pot over portable gas or electric
stove.
@ Warm tosazu (dipping sauce), and blend in foie gras fat to form loose emulsion.
@ Serve emulsion o n side, an d invite gues ts to dip raw ingredi ents into wa rm broth for desired
done ness and the n bri efly into tosazu.
@ Broth is shared amo ng diners after raw ingredients have been eaten.
VO LU ME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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RAZOR CLAM WITH SAUCE VERTE I NSP IR ED BY ALI CE WATERS Yields 550 g (eight portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Ramp bulbs 100 g
(or scallion whites)
Ramp greens 150 g
(or scallion greens)
Chives 5g
Chervil 4g
Basil 3.5g
Mint 2.2g
Caper berries 28g
Olive oil 25 g
Dijon mustard 10 9
White wine vinegar 10 9
Salt to taste
Marcona almonds, 50g
toasted
Razor clams 500 g
White wine (dry) 40 g
Borage blossoms as needed
(optional)
from page 3112
SOUS VIDE OCTOPUS
INGREDIENT
Octopus legs
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
from page 5194
QUANTITY
500g
(eight legs)
50 g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
20% CD Vacuum seal.
30%
1%
0. 8%
0.7%
0.4%
5.5%
5%
2%
2%
10%
100%
8%
(3) Cook in boil ing water until tender, a bout 5 min.
Cool in sous vide bag placed in ice-water bath.
o Drain and rese rve.
Blanch greens individuall y in boi li ng water until te nder.
@) Shock in ice water.
o Pat dry, and reserve.
Puree wit h bulbs and blanched greens unti l smooth, to make sauce ve rte.
Season sauce verte, and reserve in refri gerator.
@ Pulse in food processor to crumb-size particl es, and reserve.
@ Vacuum seal together.
@ Steam or boil at 100 c / 212 OF for 3 min.
@ Chi ll , in bag, in ice-water bat h.
@ Remove from bag, and st rai n clam cooking juices through fin e sieve lined with coffee fi lter,
reservi ng jui ces.
@ Remove cl ams from shell s.
@ Clean meat, an d vacuum seal with reserved jui ces.
@) Cooksousvide in 60 C/ 140 Fbat hforl0min.
@ Chill sous vide bag in ice-water bath.
@ To se rve, drain, reservi ng clams and jui ce separately.
@ Sli ce clams thi nl y.
@ Whi sksome reserved jui ce into sauce verte, to taste.
@ Garni sh clams with sauce ve rte and almond crumbs.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Blanch for 30 s to re move slime.
(3) Cool in ice-water bath.
Vacuum seal indi vidua ll y.
o Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bat h for 4 h.
Cool in bag, in ice-water bath.
@) Peel skin offfour octopus legs, leaving skins on re maining four legs.
10% 0 Vacuum seal peeled octopus legs wit h 25 g of oil.
Reserve re maining 25 g of oil.
Warm peeled octopus in bag, in 60 C / 140 OF bath, for 15 min.
@ Brush reserved o il o nto skins of un peele d octopus legs .
Yields450 g
@ Grill unp eeled octopus legs on griddl e or over coals until deeply charred, about 2 min. Season
al l legs wit h salt.
MEA T AND SEAFOOD 85
5
;;'/1" t ~ ..... ,;,"' . ~ ~ . , . ~ _ _ .. _ __ _ _
COOKING TOUGH CUTS
CD Select an ingredient and target temperature from the table below.
o If cooking so us vide, set a water bath to the temperature indicated for the
desired texture. If pressure cooking, set the gauge pressure to 1 bar I
15 psi, and cook for the time indicated, and then skip to step 5.
o Vacuum seal the food together with any flavor ings, fats, or liquids.
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts
Cook sous vide
@ Cook sous vide for the time indicated.
@) Serve immediately, or chill, and then refrigerate until needed. Reheat in a
bath set to the cooking temperature.
@) Optionally, sear the food. See see page 2270 for searing methods.
(]) Season as desired.
Firm, steak-like Tender, yielding Tender, flaky Very flaky
Pressure-
cook at 1 bar /
15 psi (gauge)
See
page
Ingredient
(DC) (OF) (h) (DC) (OF) (h) (DC) (OF) (h) (DC) (OF) (h) (min) Note
beef cheek 58 136 72 62 144 72 68 154 36 80 176 12 60 remove connective tissue 555
beef short 56 133 72 58 136 72 60 140 72 88 190 7 50 texture is best when 542
rib, bone in carved just before serving
beef brisket 58 136 72 60 140 72 63 145 72 70 158 72 use the fattier, thick end of 88
the brisket called the nose
beef flatiron 52 126 24 55 131 12 62 144 48 88 190 5 remove central muscle 5-49
55 131 48
sheath, then apply Activa
flank steak 50 122 3 55 131 12 62 144 36 88 190 7
beef hanger 50 122 2 55 131 12 62 144 36 88 190 6
steak 55 131 48
oxtail n/ a 60 140 100 65 149 48 70 158 24 70 549
lamb shank 58 136 48 62 144 48 85 185 5 88 190 5 60 589
lamb 56 133 48 62 144 48 65 149 24 85 185 5 40 coat meat with 5.0% olive 88
shoulder oil and 0.1% thyme to
prevent stronger lamb
notes from developing
pork belly 60 140 72 65 149 36 70 158 18 88 190 8 50 for firm texture, cure with 5101
pink brine before cooking
pork 54 129 48 60 140 72 65 149 36 84 183 4 60 many individual muscles 89
shoulder or can be treated like tender
fresh ham cuts
pork cheek, n/ a 65 149 38 68 154 48 85 185 5 35 122
fat cap on
pork ribs n/ a 60 140 48 65 149 48 75 167 7 88
pork trotter n/ a n/ a n/ a 85 185 12 120 169
and hock
suckling pig n/ a 60 140 36 65 149 24 80 176 8 60
shoulder
and leg
rabbit n/ a 60 140 4 66 151 1 85 185 1 hotter-than-core cooking
shoulder may be required for
younger animals
veal breast 54 129 to core 62 144 5 68 154 24 85 185 6 75 for steak-like texture, use 3216
individual breast muscles;
remove fat and sinew
veal shank n/ a 60 140 72 62 144 72 85 185 8 90 cook veal shanks whole 560
from page 3109 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
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Yields 750 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM JOAN ROCA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Suckling pig shoulders 500g
(one shoulder)
Extra-virgin olive oil 60g
Sugar 20g
Brown pork stock 150g
see page 6
Orange juice, freshly 150 g
squeezed and strained
Shallots, peeled and 400g
halved (about eight
small halves)
Red wine vinegar
109
Cloves, finely ground to taste
Salt to taste
Frying oil as needed
Elderflowers e ight small tufts
Flaky sea salt to taste
from page 3110)
CRISPY DUCK TONGUES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 250 g
Duck tongues 150 g
Salt 5g
Fryingoil as needed
from page 584
BEEF SHANK RILLETTE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beef shank, boneless 200g
White beefstock, cold 125g
see page 6
160 Bloom gelatin 1.5g
Agar 1.15 g
Rendered beef suet 40g
Black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
from page 552
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
12%
4%
30%
30%
80%
2%
SCALING
167%
100%
3%
SCALING
100%
62.5%
0.75%
(7.2%)*
0.58%
(0.7%)*
20%
@ Vacuum seal individuall y.
o Cook sous vide in 65 C / 149 OF bath for 24 h.
Cook in small pot unti l dark caramel forms .
@) Deglaze caramel.
Re duce to 150 g.
@) Add to orange sauce.
(2) Simmer until tender, about30 min.
Season orange sauce and shallots.
Debone warm pork shoulders, leaving skins on and keeping structures intact.
@ Fry, skin side down only, in thin fi lm of o il , until skin is crisp, about 4 min.
@ Cut each shoulder in half.
@ Distribute among four plates.
@ Garnish with shallots, orange sauce, and elde rflowe rtufts.
@ Season pork shoulde r and shallots.
PROCEDURE
@ Vacuum seal.
o Cook sous vide in 88 c /190 OF bath for 5 h.
Remove from bag, and pull out cent ral bone from each tongue while warm.
@) Dehydrate tongues in 50 C/ 120 OF oven until completely dry, about2 h.
Heat oil for duck tongues to 205 C / 400 OF.
@) Deep-fry duck tongues unt il crispy and puffed, about 1 min.
(2) Drain on paper towels, and season with salt.
PROCEDURE
@ Cook so us vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 5 h.
o Cool quickly in ice-water bath. Shred meat.
Disperse agar and gelatin into stock.
@) Boil for3 min to fully hydrate.
Refrigerate until firmly set.
@) Puree until fluid.
(2) Heat fat unt iniquid is warm, but not hot.
Blend into stock fluid gel until fully emul sified.
Fold in shredded meat.
@ Season meat mixture generously, and vacuum seal.
@ Reheat in 50 C / 122 OF bath for 20 min, or refrigerate unt il use.
*(% of total weightafbeefstack and beejsuet)
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
Yields 65 g
Yields365 g
87
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SOUS VIDE PORK BELLY
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whole pork bell y, on bone 2.4 kg
Pink brine
see page 101
Water
Fryi ng oil
from page 5102
480g
800 g
as needed
SCALING
100%
10%
33%
PROCEDURE
o Inj ect brine in amount equal to 10% of pork be ll y we ight.
o Vacuum sea l in remaining brine for 3 d.
Drain brine from bag, and reseal pork be ll y.
@ Refri gerate for 2 d before cooking to d iffuse salt through meat.
Re move meat from bag, and drain.
Vacuum seal pork be ll y wi th water.
o Cook sous vide in 62 C 1 144 of bat h fo r 40 h.
Chi ll in ice-wate r bath unti l fi rm.
Remove bell y from bag, and discard gell e d cooki ng juices.
@ Carve bell y from ribs, and remove skin. Discard bones and skin.
@ Porti o n bell y into square blocks of 150 g each.
@ Vacuum seal each port io n indi viduall y.
@ Refrigerate.
@ Toserve, re heat bagged pork belly port ions in 62 c l 144 of bath, about 15 min.
Yields 1.6 kg
@ Remove pork bell y po rt ions from bag, and sear, fat si de only, unt il golde n, about 2 mi n.
BRAISED LAMB SHOULDER Yi elds500g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Lamb shoul der, boneless 500 g
Brown lamb stock 100 g
see page 6
Re ndered duck fat 50 g
Garl ic, thinly sli ced
Thyme
Salt
from page 583
BEEF BRISKET
INGREDIENT
Beef brisket
Kansas City barbecue
sauce
see page 220
fro m page 579
PORK RIBS
INGREDIENT
Pork spare ribs,
membrane removed
Dry rub,
from above
from page 578
aa
9g
0.4 g
to taste
QUANTITY
700 g
100 g
QUANTITY
1.2 kg
30 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
20%
o Vacuum seal.
o Cook so us vide in 56 c 1 133 OF bath for 48 h.
Slice o r shred as desire d, or cool bagged sho ulder in ice-wate r bat h and refr igerate unt il use.
10%
1. 8%
0.08%
@ Season.
SCALING PROCEDURE
Yields500 g
100% 0 Smoke at 65 C/ 149 OF with 65% re lati ve humidi ty {wet-bul b tempe rature should be 55 c l
131 F)for 7h.
o Vacuu m seal.
Cook sous vide in 63 C 1 146 OF bat h for 72 h.
@ Trim off extra fat.
Sli ce meat to serve.
14% Brush on sliced meat .
SCALING PROCEDURE
Yi elds 500 g
100% o Smoke at 65 C/ 149 OF with 60% re lati ve humidity {wet- bul b t empe ratu re 55 'C/ 131 F)for7 h.
o Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 60 c 1140 of bat h fo r 48 h.
2.5% @ Rub onto ribs just before servi ng.
Flash with blowtorch, or brown lightly if desire d.
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PULLED PORK SHOULDER
INGREDIENT
Pork shoulder, skin on,
boneless
Barbecue sauce
see page 449
QUANTITY
300 g
300g
Yields500 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Smoke at 65 ' ( / 149 ' F wit h 60% relative humidity (wet-bulb temperature at 55 '( / 131 ' F)
for7 h.
(3) Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 65 ' ( / 150 ' F bath for 72 h.
o Pull meat apart with two forks, and discard pieces of fat.
100% Mix into pulled meat.
~ from page 578
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BRAISED VEAL FORESHANK Yields500 g
INGREDIENT
Veal foreshank
Water
Squash glaze
see page 39
Flaky sea salt
from page 562
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
1 kg (one whole) 100%
125g 12. 5%
100g 12.5%
to taste
CD Vacuum seal together.
(3) Cook sous vide in 62 ' ( / 144 ' F bath for 72 h.
Remove foreshank from bag, and cool in ice-water bath for 30 min.
o Divide fores hank into four equal portions, reserving cooking juices and bones separately.
Vacuum seal meat portions individuall y, and refrigerate.
@) Refrigerate cooking juices for making glaze, and reserve bones for making custard.
o Re heat meat portions in 62 ' ( / 144 ' F bath for 25 min.
Brush with glaze, and season with sea salt.
AMERICAN WAGYU BEEF CHEEK Yields450g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Wagyu beef cheeks, 500g
trimmed of sinew and
silverskin
Goulash broth, 75g
see page19
Neutral oil 25g
Goulash broth, 400g
see page19
Flaky salt to taste
from page 557
RARE FLATIRON STEAK
INGREDIENT
Flatiron steak
Activa RM or GS
Neutral oil
Salt
from page 550
QUANTITY
500g
as needed
as needed
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
15%
5%
80%
CD Vacuum seal together.
(3) Cook sous vide in 62 ' ( / 144 ' F bath for 72 h.
Reduce to 75 g to make glaze, and reserve warm.
o Remove beef cheeks from bag and cut into slices 1 cm / Y2 in thick.
Brush sli ces wit h warm glaze.
@) Season and serve.
Yields500 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Butterfly steak to remove tendon.
(3) Dust each piece evenly with thin layer of Activa.
Fold steak closed.
o Vacuum seal together.
Refrigerate for at least 6 h to ensure bonding.
@) Cook sous vide in 55 ' ( / 131 ' F bath for12 h.
o Sear steak until just golden, about 30 s. Slice into portions 1 em / % in thick, and season with
salt.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 89
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~
BRAISED SHORT RIBS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Short ribs, four-bone 3 kg
pl ate with ribs
10-12.5 cm / 4-5 in long
White beef stock 225g
see page 6
Salt to taste
from page 5-44
SOUS VIDE VEAL TONGUE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Veal tongues 550 g
Wate r 100 g
Cider vinegar 45g
Carrot, peeled and thinly 20 g
sliced
Garlic, thinly sliced
10 9
Sweet onion, thinly sli ced 10 g
Salt 7g
from page 550
BEEF SHORT RIBS
INGREDIENT
Beef short ribs
East Texas barbecue
sauce, from above
from page 579
QUANTITY
1. 2 kg
100 g
GLAZED OXTAIL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Oxtai l, cut between joints 300 g
Brown beef jus 75 g
see page 34
fro m page 550
SCALING
100%
7.5%
SCALING
100%
18%
8%
4%
2%
2%
1.3%
SCALING
100%
8%
PROCEDURE
CD Remove fat cap and sil verskin covering ribs.
(3) Vacuum seal ribs with beef stock.
Cook so us vi de at 60 c / 140 of, for 72 h.
o Chill vacuum-sealed ribs quickly in ice-water bat h.
@) Remove ribs from bag, strain juices, and reserve.
@ Peel meat from bones, an d set on plates.
Yields 1.2 kg
(2) Trim gri stl e from meat, and cut meat into eve n block-s haped portions (aboutlO blocks).
Vacuum seal, and reheat braised short ribs in 60 C / 140 OF bath for 30 min.
Remove short ribs from bags, and fl as h briefly with blowtorch to sear surface until golden,
about 30 s.
@ Season.
PROCEDURE
CD Blanch for 2 min.
(3) Drain and cool.
Combine with tongues, and vacuum seal.
o Cook sous vide in 70 c / 158 OF bath for 24 h.
@) Remove tongues and cooking liquid from bag, reserving both.
@ Peel tongues and sli ce thin ly le ngt hwise.
(2) Redu ce cooking li quid until syrupy, about 10 min.
Stra in.
Add sli ced tongues to pan and warm through.
@ Season with additional salt to tas te.
PROCEDURE
Yields 250 g
Yields500 g
CD Smoke at 65 C / 149 OF with 65% re lative humidi ty (wet-bulb temperature 55 c / 131 F) for 7 h.
(3) Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 60 c / 140 OF bat h for 72 h.
o Slide bones out while meat is warm.
@) Sli ce meatto serve.
@ Brush on sliced meat.
Yields 325g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
25%
CD Vacuum seal.
(3) Cook sous vide in 60 C/ 140 OF bath fo r100 h.
Remove oxtai l an d jui ces from bag.
o Dislodge pieces of meat from bo nes a nd gristle, and refrigerate meat.
@) Strain cooking jui ces.
@ Reduce j ui ce to thick glaze. Glaze will thin when combined with oxtail pi eces.
(2) Cool glaze.
Vacuum seal oxtail pi eces with glaze.
Reheat in 50 c / 122 OF bath for 20 min, or refr igerate until use.
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HOW TO Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results
CD Add 0.5-1 cm / )4-Y2 in of water to the press ure cooker.
o Add the meat and any seasonings.
Cook for 20 min to make the meat firm but tender; for as long as 60 min
to make it flaky. Whole muscles or large portions will take longer to cook.
Heat to a gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi, and then lower heat slowl y until
hissing steam no longer leaves the pot.
@)Ventsteamfor l -2 min.
Cool the pressure cooker under cold running water.
(]) Lift the meat from the jus. Reduce the cooking juices to serve alongside
the meat or for later use.
SO US VIDE AND PRESSURE-COOKED VEAL BREAST WITH BULBOUS VEGETABLES Yields 1 kg
INSPIRED BY GRAY KUNZ
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Veal breast, sinew and 1 kg
excess fat trimmed
Neutral oil as needed
White wine (dry) 475g
Apple cider (fresh) 300g
White peppercorns, 9g
crushed
Bay leaf 0.2 g
Clove 0.2g
Cumin seeds 0.1 g
Veal breast, central 500 g
muscle, fat and sinew
removed
White cabbage, quartered 475 g
Sweet onions, quartered 275 g
Leeks, greens removed 175g
and halved
Shallots, skin on 135 g
Garlic cloves, with skin 65g
Vegetable oil as needed
Unsalted butter 20g
Neutral oil as needed
Black pepper, finely to taste
ground
Salt to taste
from page 3111
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Rub veal with oil, and sear both sides in nonstick pan unti l golde n.
47.5%
30%
0.9%
0.02%
0.02%
0.01%
50%
47.5%
27.5%
17.5%
13.5%
6.5%
2%
o Deglaze, and then transfer to pressure cooker.
Add to veal-wine mixture.
@) Pressure-cook atgauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi for1)4 h.
Drain veal, and reserve in warm place with 50 g of cooking liquid.
Reserve remaining cooking liq uid for vegetables.
(]) Meanwhile, cook sous vide in 55 C / 131 OF bath to core temperature of 54 C / 129 of, about
lV2 h.
Allow to rest for 10 min at room temperature.
Cook vegetables in oil in bottom of pressure cooker until golden.
@ Deglaze with reserved cooking liquid.
@ Press ure-cook for 7 min.
@ Remove vegetables, and strain cooking liquid to form sauce.
@ Peel ski ns from cooked vegetables, and reserye warm.
@ Reduce strained sauce to glaze.
@ Season, and reserve warm.
@ Briefly heat cooked vegetables with butter until glazed, about 2 min.
@ Brown both pieces of veal over hi gh heat for 30 s on each side.
@ Season meat and vegetables.
@ Slice meats as desired, and divide among plates.
@ Pour sauce around.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 91
~ .
PRESSURE-COOKED CARNITAS Yields 800 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pork shoulder, boneless, 1 kg
cut into 2 cm / :y.. in cubes
Pork cooki ng juices, from 200 g
above
Achiote paste
Ancho chili powder
Chipotl e chili powder
Neutral frying oil
lime Juice
Salt
from page 3114
15g
5g
5g
as needed
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Remove all tendons and sinew.
20%
1.5%
0. 5%
0.5%
Fill pressure cooke r with 6 mm / ',4 in wate r. Add meat.
o Bring to pressure. When steam e merges, depress valve stem for 2 min to vent fully.
@) Cook at gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi fo r 20 min, for tender but firm texture; or40 min, for
fl aky texture. Allow press ure cooke r to cool for10 min before lifting meat from cooking juices.
Coarsely shred meat, if desired; set as ide.
Reduce cooking jui ces until sli ghtly syrupy.
o Combine, and stir into reduced juices to make sauce.
Deep-fry shredded meat in 180 C/ 355 OF oil until golde n brown, about1 min.
Remove three-quarters of meat, straining out o il. Reserve.
@ Continue to fry remaining meat until very dark an d crisp, about 5 min.
@ Combine all meat with sauce.
@ Season.
MICROWAVED TILAPIA WITH SCALLIONS AND GINGER ADAPTED FROM MRS . ZH U Yields 550 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tilapia, cleaned and 800g
gutted (one whole}
Scallion whites, thinly 150g
sliced
Shaoxing rice wine 5g
Ginger, peel ed and 2.5 g
thinly sliced
Scallion greens, julienne 109
Ginger, peeled and 3g
julienne
Cilantro leaves 19
Pea nut oil 50g
Soy sauce 25 g
Toasted sesame oil 2g
from page 3115
SCALING
100%
19%
0.6%
0.3%
1.3%
0.38%
0.1 %
6.3%
3%
0.25%
PROCEDURE
o Combine on mi crowave-safe plate.
Cover t ightl y wit h pl as tic wrap.
o Microwave at 600 W for 6 min.
@) Re move scalli ons and ginger.
Mound on top of cooked fis h to garni sh.
Heat to 190 c / 375 OF.
o Drizzle hot oil over garnished fish.
Combin e.
Pour over fish evenly.
@ lift fill ets from bones, and serve with sauce and garnish.
VOLUM E 6 . KITCH EN MANUA L
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CD Remove the pork skin from the roast by cutting close to the meat.
Cook the pork skin. Vacuum seal skin with water, and cook so us vide
in a 95 ' C/ 203 ' F bath for12 h or pressure-cook for 60 min at a gauge
pressure of1.4 bar / 20.3 psi to compl ete the transition to a gelatin.
@ Roll the roast in the crumbl ed, dried skin to form an even coating. Allow
1 min before frying to ensure the skin pieces stay adhe re d to surface of
meat during frying.
Lay the skin fl at with the side towa rd the meat facing up, and gently scrape
away the fat.
@ Deep-fry the roast in 200 ' C / 390 ' F oil. Cook just long enough for the
crumbl ed pork ski n to puff into a golden, crispy crust, about 30 s.
@ Dehydrate the prepared skin on a baking sheet in a 115 ' C / 240 ' F oven
until the skin becomes rigid.
@) Use a food processor to chop the dried skin into small pieces. Use sieves
to remove fragments much larger or smaller than 3 mm /!Is in across.
Store the crumbled skin in an airtight container with a silica gel desiccant.
Use the too-bi g or too-small pieces for other purposes.
Truss the meat, and cook it. Bind the frenched and trimmed pork loin
with acetate to form a tight cylinde r. Cook the roast sous vide to the
preferred doneness; we recommend a core temperature of 60 ' C / 140 ' F.
(2) Plunge the cooked meat in liquid nitrogen for 305 to freeze a thin surface
layer (optional). You can also lad le nitrogen over the meat. This step helps
prevent the pork flesh from overcooking in the fryer.
Dip the meat in warm water for 3 s. The surface will become tacky.
Coat the meat with a pregelatinized starch such as Ultrasperse M. Shake
off any excess.
@ Season, slice, and serve the meat.
INGREDIENT
Pork skin, from roast
Water
Rack of pork, skinless,
frenched
. Ultra-Sperse M
(or tapioca starch)
Water
Methocel KlOOM (Dow brand)
Frying oil
Salt
from page 3126
Yields 800 g
QUANTITY SCALING
1 kg 100%
250g 25%
1 four-rib roast
as needed
100g 10%
0.5 g 0.05%
as needed
to taste
@ Disperse the Methocel into boiling water. Cool Methocel solution
completely, and whip to stiff peaks. Dip the roast in foam to evenly coat
e ntire surface. For more on making this foa m, see page 517.
This approach works best fo r meats with a thick skin that otherwise would
be too hard to eat.
ULTRACRISP CHICKEN CROWN
Yields500g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whole chicken skin, removed 200 g
in one piece
Salt 2g
Chicken skin pieces, chopped 250 g
ActivaGS 5 g
Salt
Skin, from above
ActivaGS
Chicken crown
Liquid nitrogen
Neutral frying oil
Salt
2.5g
280g
3g
lkg
asneeded
asneeded
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
20%
0.2%
25%
0.5%
0.25%
28%
0.3%
100%
CD Lay flat, feather side down, on silicone mat.
Dust evenly over skin.
Refrigerate uncovered for12 h to dehydrate.
@ Combine, pack tightly into Pacojet, and freeze.
@) Process three times; pack firmly and freeze thoroughly after each cycle.
Alternatively, puree in food processor, and pass through fine sieve.
(2) Spread onto dehydrated chi cken skin in even layer 2.5 mm /!Is in thick .
Dust Activa GS around perimeter of ski n.
Place skin over chi cken crown, and tuck in all edges. Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate for 30 min to ensure all air pockets between skin and meat are removed.
@ Refrigerate uncovered for at least 5 h before assembly.
@ Cook chicken crown in convection oven at 65 ' C / 149 ' F to core temperature of 60 ' C /
140 ' F, about 40 min.
@ Lowertemperature to 60 ' C/ 140 ' F, and hold for 1 h.
@ Heat oil to 200 ' C / 390 ' F.
@ Dip cooked chi cken crown in liquid nitrogen for 30 5, preferably with wire hook.
@ Deep-fry in hot oi l for 45 s.
Repeat dipping in liquid nitrogen and deep-frying until crown is golden and very cri spy,
about three cycles.
@ Carve chicken from crown, and season with salt.
_ from page 3134
~
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 93
--------------------------------/
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PORK LOIN ROAST
INGREDIENT
Koshe r salt
Pain d'epi ces powder
see page 51
QUANTITY
250 g
100 g
Rack of pork loin 1.5 kg
(first eight ribs from
shoulder) with fat cap
and skin
Gelatinized pork skin, 300 g
dried and finely minced
see page 93
Crisp Coat UC 60 g
(National Starch brand)
Water
Methoce l E4M
{Dow brand)
200 g
5g
Liquid nitrogen (optional) as needed
Frying oil as needed
from page 523
PUFFED COCKSCOMB
INGREDIENT
Cockscombs
White chi cken stock
see page 11
Fryingoil
Salt
from page 3133
QUANTITY
100 g
50 g
as needed
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
17%
7%
100%
20%
4%
13%
0.3%
<D Mi x togethe r thoroughl y.
(3) Roll pork loin in spiced salt wit hout lettingsalttouch ends of loin.
o Wrap in plast ic wrap, an d cure in refrigerator fo r 48 h.
@ Re move skin and fat, and refri gerate.
Meas ure and reserve individuall y.
Bring water to simmer, and mi x in methylce llulose with hand ble nde r.
0) Ho ld at si mmer fo r 2 min whil e ble nding continuously.
Cool, and vacuum seal.
Refri gerate for 12 h to all ow methylcellul ose to hydrat e.
Yields900g
@ Cook pork loin sous vide in 61 C / 142 of bath to core te mperature of 60 c / 140 of, about
1V2 h; longer fo rfull pork loin.
Whi p methylcellulose soluti o n with e lectri c whisk or mi xer until stiff peaks form.
@ Transfersolut io n to containe r large enough to accommodate who le pork loin.
Dip cooked po rk loin in li quid ni t rogen for 30 s, and t he n in warm wate r for 5 s.
(This step is o ptional. See page 3126.)
@ Si ft thin layer of starch over pork loin, and shake off excess.
@ Roll meat in wh ipped methylcellulose, and the n in minced pork skin.
@ Deep-fry in 185 C / 365 OF oil until j ust puffe d a nd golden, about 30 s.
@ Rest meat fo r 3 min.
@ Sli ce roast betwee n each bone and serve.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% <D Vacuu m seal togeth er.
50% (3) Cook in 85 C / 185 OF bat h fo r 2 h to gelatini ze skins.
o Cool.
@ Remove from bag.
Yi e lds100 g
De hydrate at 50 C / 120 OF until cockscombs a re half th eir ori ginal weight, about 2 h.
Deep-fry cockscombs in 190 C / 375 OF oil until sli ghtl y puffe d, very cri spy, and no longer
bubbling, about 5 min.
0) Dra in on papertowe ls.
Season.
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MONKFISH WITH CONSTRUCTED SKIN ADAPTE D FROM ANDON I LUIS ADURIZ Yields 420 g
INGREDIENT
Cod skins, washed
and desalted
Water
160 Bloom gelatin
Vodka
Edible silver powder
Monkfish fillet, trimmed
and cut into 5 cm 12 in
cubes
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
from page 3132
QUANTITY
1 kg
1.5 kg
2g
2.5g
0.5g
400g
30g
15 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
250% @ Coverwithwater,and bringto boil.
375%
0.5%
0.63%
0.13%
100%
7.5%
4%
(3) Simmer until reduced to one-quarter of original volume.
Strain.
@) Reduce broth by half, until it is very thick.
Measure 150 g of reduction, and reserve .
Hydrate gelatin in cold water for 5 min.
o Squeeze out excess moisture in gelatin, and then mix into warm reduction until fully dissolved.
Spread on nonstick surface in layer l mm ~ 2 in thick.
Dry at room temperature until dry film has formed, about 1 d.
@ Mix together.
@ Paint onto film with brush.
.@ Dry film at room temperature for 3 h.
@ Cut into 5 cm 1 2 in squares.
@ Reserve in airtight container.
@ Vacuum seal together.
@ Cook sous vide in 48 ' C 1 118 ' F bath to core te mperature of 47 ' c l 117 ' F, about 20 min.
@ Season monkfish.
@ Lay piece offilm "skin" on top of each monkfish cube.
PUFFED SALMON SKIN PILLOWS Yields 35 g
INGREDIENT
Salmon skin
(one intact pi ece)
ActivaGS
Water,
10-25 ' c 1 50-77 ' F
Fryingoil
Salt
from page 5163
QUANTITY
25g
5g
5g
as needed
to taste
PUFFED CHICKEN FEET
INGREDIENT
Chicken feet
Water
Salt
Fryingoil
QUANTITY
500g
100 g
2g
as needed
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% @ Vacuumseal.
(3) Cook sous vide in 85 ' C 1 185 ' F bath for 3 h.
Remove from bag to cool.
@) Trim, and cut into at least 24 squares, each measuring 3.5 cm I lY2 in.
20%
20%
Whisk together.
Brush mixture on 3 mm 1 Ys in edge of each salmon skin square.
o Sandwich two squares together to seal.
Re peat to make total of at least 12 sandwiched squares.
Vacuum seal without overlapping.
@ Refrigerate for at least 6 h.
@ Deep-fry salmon skin pillows in 175 C 1 350 ' F oil until golden and puffed, about 8 min.
@ Drain, and season with salt.
Yields 80 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% @ Vacuum seal together.
20% (3) Cook so us vide in 90 ' c 1194 ' F bath for12 h.
0.4% Drain.
@) Remove bones using scalpe l and tweezers.
Dehydrate at 115 ' c l 240 ' F for3 h.
Deep-fry chicken feet in 190 ' C 1 375 ' F oil until
puffed, 30-45 s.
Puffed chi cken feet are the chicken
equivalent of a puffed pork skin or
puffed snack (see page 342). Feet
work well because of their high
gelatin content.
- 0 Drain on paper towels.
~ from page 3133
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 95
/
,.
OFFAL SOUS VIDE
CD Prepare the meat. Many organ meats require an initi al preparation step,
such as blanching or soaking in water or a marinade.
o Vacuum seal. Most offal recipes require no other ingredients.
Estimated cooking times are given in some cases; in others, "to core"
indicates that cooking should continue until the core temperature of the
food reaches the recommended temperature.
Cook sous vide to the desired doneness. The tables below list
recommended temperatures; those printed in bold are our favorites.
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide
Tender, juicy
(OC) (OF) (h) (oC)
beef and veal tongue 68 154 12 67
o Sear (optional).
Chill and set (for meat served cold).
Braised texture
(oF) (h) Note See page
153 48 549
duck tongue 70 158 8 88 190 5 remove central bone while sti ll hot 87
chicken gizzard n/ a 60 140 12 cure before cooking 5125
veal heart n/ a 80 176 5
honeycomb tripe n/ a 88 190 2
cockscomb n/ a 85 185 2 blanch and peel before cooking 94
from page 3146 (times in bold are those we prefer)
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Organ Meats So us Vide
Medium rare Pink Medium
(OC) (OF) (h) (OC) (OF) (h) (OC) (0 F) (h)
Note See page
duck foie gras 50 122 to core* 54 129 to core* 60 140 to core* below, 98,
56 133 to core* 99
poultry liver 52 126 to core* 56 133 to core* 60 140 to core*
veal liver 58 136 to core* 62 144 to core' 65 149 to core* soak in milk or water for at least 8 h
before serving
lamb n/ a 55 131 2 65 149 1 soak in water for at least 5 h before
sweetbreads serving
veal n/ a 60 140 1 67 153 1 next page,
sweetbreads 99,100
cock's kidney n/ a 70 158 20min n/ a panfry briefly after cooking for best 98
texture
kidney n/ a 56 133 to core* 60 140 1 pork kidney is ideal because it is
(mammal) often milder tasting than other types
of kidneys
from page 3146 *(/f cooked just to these core temperatures, these meats may not meetfood safety guidelines. To pasteurize, hold at the
cooking temperature for the period of time given by the table on page ].784. Times in bold are those we prefer.)
SOUS VIDE FOIE GRAS
INGREDIENT
Flash-frozen foie gras,
presliced, 2.5 cm / 1 in
Fl aky salt
Duck broth with vanilla
and bay leaf, warmed
see page 16
from page 5110
QUANTITY
400g
(four100 g
portions)
to taste
100g
Yields400g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
25%
CD Vacuum seal portions individually.
Reserve frozen until ready to serve.
Cook foie gras sous vide directly from freezer at 53 "C / 127 "F to core temperature of 52 c /
126 OF, about 35 min.
o Cut each portion into slices 1 cm / % in thick.
Season.
o Pour around foie gras portions.
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ANKIMO TORCHON
INGREDIENT
Monkfish liver
(ankimo quality)
Water
Sake
Salt
Sugar
Daikon, julienne
Sous vide ponzu
see page22
from page 3147
QUANTITY
500g
200g
50g
8.75g
6.25g
as desired
as desired
SCALING PROCEDURE
Yields 450 g Many reci pes forfoie gras, liver,
sweetbreads, and other offal
100%
40%
10%
1.75%
(3.5%)*
1.25%
(2.5%)*
o Remove main veins.
o Cover in water, and soak refrigerated for 3 h, changing
water every 30 min.
Drain and reserve.
o Whisk together to make brine.
Vacuum seal monkfish livers with brine, and
refrigerate for 24 h.
Drain.
(2) Roll livers together into tight cylinder by using pl ast ic
wrap.
Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 63 C/ 145 OF bath to core
temperature of 62 C / 144 of, about 35 min.
@ Cool, and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to
mature.
@ Slice monkfish liver, garni sh with daikon, and serve
with ponzu.
*(% of total combined weight of water and sake)
include a soaking step before
cooking. For kidneys, this step
serves a very simple purpose: to
remove any trace of the animal's
bodily fluids. Recipes often call
for soaking foie gras, live r, and
sweetbreads in milk. It is often said
that milk improves the taste, purges
blood, lightens the color, or affects
some other property of the meat.
We were skeptical, so we tried
several experiments. With
a mild-flavored organ meat like foie
gras, we could taste a difference,
but, frankly, in our tests, we prefer
the taste of water-soaked to
milk-soaked foie gras. With
stronger-flavored organ meats,
there is even less of a difference
than with foie gras. So our sugges-
tion is to simply soak the meat in
water.
SWEETBREADS WITH SOUR MANGO POWDER AND SHIITAKE
ADAPTED FROM JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN
Yields 650 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Veal sweetbreads 600g
White vegetable stock 200g
see page 6
Salt 9g
Carrot, finely minced 60g
Unsalted butter 60g
Ginger, finely minced 32g
Shiitake, thinly sliced 120g
Shallot, thinly sliced 80g
Brown chicken stock 110g
see page 6
White port (dry) 40g
Manzanilla sherry 25g
Amchoor (sour mango 34.5g
powder)
Licorice powder 6g
Freeze-dried carrot 30g
powder
see page340
Clarified unsalted butter 70g
Salt to taste
lemon juice to taste
from page 3151
100%
33%
1.5%
10%
10%
5.5%
20%
13.5%
18.5%
6.5%
4%
6%
1%
5%
11.5%
o Peel off exterior membranes.
\6) Vacuum seal with stock and salt.
Cook so us vide in 67 C / 153 OF bath for1 h.
o Sweat until carrots and ginger are tender, about 5 min.
Add, and cook until tender, about 5 min.
Deglaze sauce base.
(2) Reduce until syrupy, about 5 min.
Whisk 4.5 g of amchoor and 1 g of licori ce into sauce, and reserve.
Combine wit h remaining amchoor and licorice powder.
@ Dust powder over surfaces of cooked sweetbreads.
@ Fry sweetbreads in very hot butter until golden on both sides, about 1 min each.
@ Season sauce and sweetbreads.
@ Slice sweetbreads into desired dimensions.
@ Divide evenly among fou r plates, and garnish with sauce.
MEAT AND SEAfOOD 97
?'
FOIE GRAS AND BUTTON MUSHROOM TART Yields800 g
ADAPTED FROM PASCA L BARBOT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Verjuice (store-bought)
Duck foie gras, Grade A
Button mushrooms
Lemonjuice
Roasted-hazelnut oil
Orange zest, finely grated
Black pepper
Salt
Maple syrup
Unsalted butte r, melted
Brik pastry sheets
Dried mushrooms,
ground to fine powder
Eggless citrus curd
see page307
from page 3148
1 kg
700g
450g
(12 large
mushrooms)
16g
10 9
3g
to tas te
to taste
40g
20g
three pieces
as needed
70 g
140%
100%
6S%
2%
1.5%
0.4%
5.5%
3%
10%
CD Marinate foie gras in verjuice for 3 h.
o Cut carefull y into slices 5 mm / i6 in thick, and reserve.
Peel, and rub with lemon juice to prevent dis colorat ion.
o Slice very thin ly on man doline, and reserve about 20 slices for garnish.
Season re maini ng mushroom slices, and reserve.
@ Whisk together to make maple butter.
(2) Lay one sheet of pate 11 brick on si licone mat.
Brush carefully with mapl e butter.
Repeat with other two sheets until three-layer pastry stack is formed.
@ Punch out 12 cm / 4 ~ in circl es from stack, using pastry cutter; makes about 20 rounds.
@ Place rounds on baking sheet between two si licone mats.
@ Bake in 160 c / 320 OF oven for 12 min.
@ Arrange seasoned mushrooms o n each pate 11 brick round.
@ Top with slices of marinated foie gras.
@ Dust li ght ly with mushroom powder.
@ Top with reserved, unseasoned mushroom slices.
@ Dustwith more mushroom powder.
@ Slice rounds (tarts) into quarters.
@ Serve with dab of curd on side.
SOUS VIDE PIGEON OFFAL Yields300g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pigeon hearts 100 g
(four hearts,
25 g each)
Rendered duck fat 50g
Cock's kidneys 100g
(four kidneys,
25 g each)
Pigeon gizzards, 150g
split and peeled
Rendered duck fat 50g
Neutral frying oil as needed
Salt to taste
from page 5130
98
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Measure and reserve individually.
50%
100%
100%
33%
o Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 70 c / 158 OF bat h for 20 min.
o Vacuum sea l together.
Cook so us vide in 60 C / 140 OF bath for12 h.
@ Reserve duck fat.
(2) Brown kidneys gently in oil to achi eve golden crust.
Slice browned kidneys in half le ngthwise and gizzards into thin pieces, and season with salt.
Brown hearts on all sides in reserved duck fat for 2 min, and season with salt.
@ Serve as garnish for ragout of grains; see page 156.
VO LU ME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields 800 g(four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Foie gras lobe (Grade B) 600g
Whole milk 1 kg
Water lkg
Table salt
109
Sunfloweroi l 50g
Extra-virgin olive oil
109
Yellow onion, finely 25g
chopped
Bomba rice 50g
White vegetable stock, 500g
brought to a boi l
see page 6
Sea lettuce (fresh) 50g
Salt as needed
from page 3149
SCALING
100%
167%
167%
1.7%
8.3%
6.7%
4.2%
8.3%
83%
8.3%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut into two orthree large pieces, depending on size.
If three pieces, cut off e nds by about1 cm / y, in to
facilitate removing blood.
(3) Whisk unti l salt has dissolved, and bringto 30 C/
86 OF.
Add foie gras pieces; keep submerged for 3 h.
o Remove foie gras from milk brine, and pat dry.
Sear brined foie gras unti l golden brown on al l sides.
Bake in 130 C / 265 OF oven to core temperature of
58 C / 136 OF.
o Remove, and place weighted sheet pan on top offoie
gras to press out excess fat and blood.
Rest in warm place for 5 min.
Sweat until lightly golden, about 7 min.
@ Add rice to onion, and toast for 5 min.
@ Pour in hot vegetable broth, and simmerfor 15 min.
@ Add to rice, simmerfor 5 min, and remove from heat.
@ Cover pot, let stand for 15 min, and pass through fine
sieve.
<8 Season broth.
@ Sli ce foie gras into four portions, each 4 cm / 1 y, in
thick, and place in center offour warm bowls.
@ Finish with rice broth.
An alternative to baking fo ie gras in
the oven is to seal raw foie gras in a
sous vide bag and cook it at 58 C /
136 OF. Remove the meat from the
bag, place a weighted sheet pan
on top of the foie gras to press out
excess fat and blood, and then sear
the meat. This procedure replaces
steps 5- 7 in the recipe at left.
SO US VIDE VEAL SWEETBREADS Yields500 g
INGREDIENT
Veal sweetbreads
Water
White veal stock
see page 6
Fino sherry
Dried licorice root
Fennel seeds
Star anise
Kaolin clay
Salt
from page 5-32
QUANTITY
500g
as needed
300g
150g
2.Sg
0.5g
0.5g
2g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Cover sweetbreads with water. Refrigerate for4 h.
60%
30%
0.5%
0.1%
0.1%
0.4%
(3) Drain, and then repeat process twice for total soaking time of12 h.
Discard liquid.
o Peel membrane off sweetbreads, and trim away fat and veins.
Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 67 C / 153 OF bath for1 h.
o Meanwhi le, combine, and reduce to 50 g.
Bring reduction to boil, and re move from heat.
@ Add to hot reduction, and infuse for 7 min.
@ Strai n.
@ Whisk into infused reduction to create glaze.
@ Season clay glaze.
<8 Add sweetbreads to hot glaze, and baste unti l glaze has reduced and sweetbreads are well
coated, about 1 min.
@ Cut sweetbreads into portions 2.5 cm / 1 in thick.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
99
d
r-
CRISPY SWEETBREADS ADAPTED FROM SCOTT AN DERSON Yields 1.2 kg (six portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White soy sauce 140 g
Extra-virgin olive oil 70 g
Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 60 g
Black pepper, 1. 5 g
coarsely ground
Veal sweetbreads 600 g
Wondra flour 20g
Pistachio powder 15g
Salt 3g
Dried orange zest powder 2 g
White asparagus stalks, BOg
chopped
Spanish onion, thin ly 90g
sliced
Extra-virgin olive oil 15g
Soy milk 300g
Macadamia nut butter 35g
Salt to taste
Asparagus tips, blanched 90 g
and cut lengt hwise
Chickpeas, cooked a nd 60g
peeled
Black summertruffle, 12g
juli enne
Chive flowers as needed
from page 3150
SCALING PROCEDURE
23.5%
11 .5%
10%
0.25%
100%
3.5%
2.5%
0.5%
0.3%
22%
15%
2.5%
50%
6%
15%
10%
2%
CD Combine, and vacuum seal.
o Cook sous vide in 93 C/ 199 OF bath for10 min.
Cool, stra in, and reserve.
@) Peel off exterior membranes.
@) Separate along seams, using sharp knife, into 2.5 cm / 1 in pieces, and reserve.
Vacuum seal sweetbreads with cooled infusion.
o Cook sous vide in 60 c / 140 of bath for 1 h.
Cool qui ckly in ice-water bath.
Combine to make dredging powder, and reserve.
@ Sweat together until asparagus stalks are tender.
Add to asparagus mixture, and simmer until very tender, about 15 min.
@ Puree, and pass through fine sieve.
@ Season asparagus stalk puree, and reserve warm.
@ Warm in small pot.
@ Drain cooked sweetbread pieces, and coat wit h dredging powder.
@ Fry in 190 C / 375 OF oil until golde n brown and just warmed through, about 45 s.
@ Drain on paper towels.
@ Spoon asparagus puree into bowls.
@ Topwith crisp sweetbread pieces, asparagus t ips, and chickpeas.
Garnish plates.
@ Dust with additional dredging powder.
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BRINES, CURES, AND DRY RUBS
CD Select a brine, wet cure, or dry rub; the Best Bets tables below and on the
next page suggest many good options.
(3) Combine the ingredients, stir fully to dissolve, and then refrigerate the
solution. Quantities for rubs are given relative to the amount of salt. For
exampl e, to make a basic dry rub, use 10 g of sugar and 5 g of spices for
every100 g of salt. For convenience, quantiti es for brines and wet cures
Best Bets for Brines
Recipe
basic brine
basic seafood brine
basic pink brine
Ingredients
meat a nd water
water
salt
sugar
meat and water
water
salt
sugar
meat a nd water
wate r
salt
Insta Cure No.1
basic phosphate brine meat and water
wate r
(scal ing1)
100%
as needed
1%
0.4%
100%
as needed
1%
0.6%
100%
as needed
10%
0.2%
100%
as needed
salt 1%
umami brine
cola brine
dairy brine
fro m page 3168
sodium tr ipolyphosphate 0.007%
meat and water
wate r
usukuchi shoyu
honey
meat and cola
cola (not diet colal
salt
meat & c ultured whey
cult ured whey
salt
100%
as needed
5.3%
1%
100%
as needed
1%
100%
as needed
1%
The resting step that follows brining works very much like the rest ing one
does after cooking meat. The salt, just li ke the heat, continues to diffuse
through the meat after it is removed from the source. Anotherway to judge
when brining is complete is to calcul ate t he final weight of the meat when it
has reached the desired salini ty, D (in percent), which typicall y ranges from
li ghtly brined at 0.7% salinity to an intense cure of2%. First, determine the
salini ty S of the brine from the weight of salt and water in grams by using the
formula 5 = 100 x salt .;. (salt + water). Next weigh the unbrined meat to obtain
t he starting weight M in grams. Then calcu late the target weight of the meat
T by usi ng the formula T = M + (D x M.;. S).
are given using two distinct kinds of baker's percentages. Quantities in
the scaling1 column are relative to the combined weight of the meat and
water (excl uding the weight of any bones), and are appropri ate for the
equilibrium brining method described on page 3170. Quantities in the
scaling 2 column are for use with the more traditional hi gh-concentration
approach described on page 31 71, and are explained there.
(scaling 2) Note See page
100%
7%
3%
100%
5%
3.5%
100%
10%
2%
100%
7%
0.05%
100%
100%
20%
100%
8%
100%
6%
works well for most appli cations
hi ghe r sugar conte nt balances this brine fo r
delicate fish a nd she llfi s h
has an effective ni t ri te concentratio n'
of 0.12%; works well with color-se nsitive
meats, such as pork belly or tongue
firms meat and ma intai ns moisture; using
more sodium tripolyphosphate than indi cated
here can produce a rubbery t exture
saltiness varies with brand and t ype of soy
sauce but is usually about 19%; usukuchi s hoyu
has an excell ent flavor
popul a r sweet brine in the Ame ri can South;
neve r add curing salts to cola brines because
the mi xture will re lease a letha l gas
has a mild tenderizing effect; adds
characteristic dairy sweetness; especiall y
good with mild meats li ke chicken a nd fish
5113
5161
5101
M = 1,000 g, t he starting weight of the pork chops. To achieve a fina l sali nity
D = 0.7%, brine to a target weight ofT = 1,000 + (0.7 x 1,000 .;. 6.54) = 1,107 g.
The pork chops will thus weigh about 1.107 kg when they have reached the
desired degree of saltiness.
As the meat soaks in the brine, remove and weigh it periodically to check
whether the weight has increased to the target weight. For example, ifbrining
1 kg pork chops in the basic brine recipe above, S = 100 x 7 .;. (7 + 100) = 6.54.
Sometimes cured meats and seafood are also smoked as part of the ripen-
ing process. We discuss the details of smoking food in chapter 7 on Tradi-
tional Cooking, page 22, and in chapter11 on Meat and Seafood, page 3208.
We mention it here to point out that it can be an important step after curing.
Sometimes, it is done early, often during the resting step, after the curing is
complete. Other t imes, it's done at t he end, after the product is fully mature.
The choice to do it early or late comes down to whether or not you want a
dist inct smoky aroma. Over time, smoke aromas dissipate to the point that
you woul d no longer describe the flavor as smoky.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 101
~
Best Bets for Wet Cures
Recipe Ingredients* (scaling1)
basic wet cure water and meat 100%
water as needed
salt 2%
Insta Cure No. 1** 0.14%
basic sweet cure wate r and meat 100%
water as needed
salt 2%
sweetener 1.5%
Insta Cure No. 1** 0.14%
Wiltshire water and meat 100%
tank cure water as needed
salt 2%
sodium nitrite 0.001%
sodium nitrate 0.003%
corned beef cure water and meat 100%
water as needed
salt 2%
brown sugar 1.7%
Insta Cure No.1 0.14%
pickling spice mi x see note
Effective Effective nitrite
(scaling 2) salinity
17%
100%
20%
1.40%
17%
100%
20%
15%
1.4%
19%
100%
20%
0.01%
0.03%
10%
100%
8%
4.5%
1.4%
concentration Note
0.1% keep meats and seafoods submerged and
refri gerated
0.1%
0.10% nitrite
0.25% nitrate
0.1%
sugar, corn syrup, honey, molasses, and treacle
are all commonly used sweeteners
tradit ionally used for bacon
to make pickl ing spice mix, combine 10 g cor-
iander seed, 8 g bl ack peppercorns, 5 g yellow
mustard seeds, 5 g dill seeds, 5 g star anise,
1 g mace, 1 g clove, and two fresh bay leaves for
each 1 kg cure; combine cure ingredients and
bring to boil; cool completely to infuse; inject
10% cure to weight of meat; submerge meat in
remaining cure; refrige rate for 3-5 d; rinse
from page 3169 ' (allow sufficient cure to cover meat or seafood); *'(optional)
Phosphates in brines orwet cures should be dissolved
separately in a small amount of warm water and added
to the main mixture only after full y di ssolved.
Best Bets for Dry Rubs
Recipe Ingredients'
basic dry rub salt
sugar (optional)
he rbs and spices (optional)
sweet dry.rub salt
sugar
herbs and spices (optional)
pink salt rub salt
Insta Cure No.1
sugar (optional)
he rbs and spices (optional)
slow-curing rub salt
Morton Tender Quick
sugar (optional)
herbs and spices (optional)
(scaling)
100%
10%
5%
100%
50%
5%
100%
16%
20%
5%
100%
43%
30%
5%
from page 3169 * (allow sufficient rub to cover meat or seafood)
For the he rbs and spices in the dry rub recipes, use any spice
mi x, such as our Indi es Spice Bl e nd (page 4B), Kansas and
Memphis Rubs (page 49), Pastrami Spice Blend (see page
121), or various curry blends (see page 589).
Effective nitrite
concentration
none
none
less than 0.15%
less than 0.15% for both
nitrites and nitrates
Note
customizable to your own taste
only suitabl e for brief dry-curing or
brining under refrigeration
recipe includes nitrates; must be
used only for dry, long cures
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Best Bets for Brining
Meat Recommended brine
chicken breast, boneless and basic brine
skinless
chicken legs, skin on, bone in bas ic brine
duck breast, skin on, boneless basi c phosphate brine
fish fillet, portion, skinless
lobster tail, whole, shelled
shrimp, whole, shelled
pork belly, whole, skin on,
bone in
pork chop, bone in
pork tenderloin, whole
basic seafood brine
basic seafood brine
basic seafood brine
basic pink brine
basic brine
juniper brine
pork shoulder, whole, skin on col a brine
sweetbreads, membrane
peeled
umami brine
Thickness Soak* Rinse Rest
(cm) (in) (h)
3. 2 1l,4 4
3. 2 1l,4 10
3.8 ]1/2 5
3.2 1l,4 3
1.25 Y2 2
6.4 2Y2 72
2.5
3.8 1Y2 12
23 9 72
3.8 1V2 10
(min) (h)
n/ a 2
n/ a 3
n/ a 5
n/ a
n/ a
n/ a V2
2 h 24
see note
n/ a 8
extend soaking time if skin on or 101
bone in
101
101
101
101
101
adjust soaking time for 101
prepo rti o ned cuts
vacuum seal pork with brine 101
until meat absorbs 10% of liquid
69
2 h n/ a inj ect with 7% brine, and
imme rse in remai ning brine"
101
30 n/ a 101
veal tongue bas ic phos phate brine 7. 6 3 24 2 h n/ a inj ect with 14% brine, and
- - - - - - ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ - - ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ - -
101,90
whole chicken bas ic brine 2.5 kg 24 n/ a 24 immerse in re maining brine**
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
whole turkey bas ic brine 5 kg 48 n/ a 48
from page 3172 , (tumbling or injecting the meat reduces the soaking time required);
" (by weight of meat, which is abaul 60% of weight of whale poultry)
Best Bets for Curing
Meat
beef tenderloin,
whole
brisket, whole
duck breast,
skin on
duck leg,
skin on
Recommended
rub orcure
basic dry rub
pastrami cure
basi c sweet cure,
corned beef cure
basic dry rub
Thickness
(em) (i n)
8.75 3Y2
7.5 3
2.5
Cure time* Rinse Rest
(d) (h) (h) Exampl e use Note See page
2 n/ a 24 cured beef
7.5 n/ a n/ a corned beef we prefer the meat from the 88
wipe off 12
cure
pastrami nose end
corned duck,
duck ham
fo r corned duck, cook after
curing; for duck ham, hang
dry in refri ge rator for 7 d
3.2 1l,4 6 h wipe off n/ a duck confit
cure
can be cured for up to 12 h 105
fo r a fi rmer t exture
fish fill et, whole
side, skin on
3% salt, 1% sugar to 3.75 1Y2 24- 28 h wipe off n/ a smoked vacuum sealing
recommended
121
pork belly, whole,
skin on, bone in
pork leg, skin on,
bone in (fresh ham)
pork jowl, skin on
pork shank, skinless
(ham hock)
from page 3172
weight of fis h
basic dry rub,
Wil tshire tank cure
basi c wet- cure,
bl ackstrap
molasses cure
pink salt cure
sweet dry rub
6. 25 2Y2
17.5 7
3.75 1Y2
7 20/<1
5- 7
12-15
5
cure
n/ a
8
2
qui ck
rinse
7 d
8
n/ a
12
salmon
bacon
honey baked
ham,
prosci utto
guanciale
smoked ham
hock
o mit resting if using
Wiltshire t ank cure
inj ection curing
recomme nded
'(cure time is approximate, but varies with the thickness afthe meat)
MEAT AND SEA f OOD
110
103
.,...
FOIE GRAS TORCHON
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Raw duck foie gras, 800g
Grade A
Water, cold as needed
White port (sweet) 16g
Salt 14g
Cognac 4g
Sugar 4g
Insta Cure No.1 2g
Synthetic sausage casing, 1 piece
5 cm / 2 in diameter,
20 cm / 8 in long
Brioche loaf 300 g
Foie gras fat, from above 50 g
Salt 3 g
Yuzu and kumquat 40 g
marmalade
see page 181
from page 3176
FOIE GRAS PARFAIT
INGREDIENT
Raw duck foie gras
Whole milk
White duck stock
warmed
see page 6
Insta Cure No.1
Salt
Sugar
from page 5268
BACON CHIP
INGREDIENT
Maple syrup
Water
Glucose syrup DE 40
Iso malt
Sorbitol
Cured bacon, sli ced
1 mm / X. in thick
store-bought or see page 107
from page 5220
QUANTITY
425g
as needed
170g
6g
6g
3g
QUANTITY
50g
SO g
45g
25g
19
250g
SCALING
100%
2%
1.75%
0.5%
0.5%
0.25%
37.5%
6.25%
0.4%
5%
PROCEDURE
[) Bring lobe offoie gras to room temperature.
(3) Butterfly lobe carefully to reveal network of blood vessels.
Remove veins and any remaining blood by scraping away with spoon.
o Set as ide foie gras.
Blend to form cure.
@ Rub onto foie gras; cover completely.
(2) Vacuum seal foie gras.
Refrigerate for 12 h to cure.
Yields875g
Cook cured foie gras sous vide in 56 c / 133 OF bath to core temperature of 55 ' c / 131 ' F, about
20 min.
@ Remove from bag, and cool at room temperature for 10 mi n, or until fat begins to congeal.
@ Reserve 50 g of fat.
@ Puree cooked foie gras.
@ Pour into synthetic sausage casing.
@ Tie ends of casing wit h butcher's twine.
@ Refrigerate for at least 3 d to age.
@ Cut into sli ces 2.5 cm / 1 in thick and 75 g each.
@ Brush brioche slices evenly with reserved foie gras fat.
@ Toastslices in nonstick pan until edges a re golden and centers are tender, about 3 min.
@ Serve sli ces of aged foie gras with marmalade and hot, toasted brioche.
Yields 600 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% [) Slice 1 cm /:y. in off each end of lobe.
40%
1.4%
1.4%
0.7%
SCALING
20%
20%
18%
10%
0.4%
100%
(3) Cover foie gras with milk, soak for 5 h in refrigerator to drain blood, and then drain and
vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 57 ' C/ 135 'F bat h to core te mperature of 56 ' C / 133 ' F, about20 min.
o Whisk salts and sugar into stock until dissolved. Cool completely.
Blend foie gras with stock.
@ Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
PROCEDURE
[) Simmer together until dissolved.
(3) Cool syrup.
Yields100 g
Soak bacon slices in syrup in refrigerator for 2 h.
o Dehydrate at 60 ' C / 140 ' F until crisp, 12-14 h.
Store chips in cool, dry place.
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SHAVED FOtE GRAS ADAPTED FROM DAVID C HANG
Yields 1.2 kg (16 portions)
INGREDIENT
Lychees, drained
(canned in syrup)
For Ri esling geh!e:
160 Bloom gelatin
Riesling (dry)
Rice vinegar
For pine nut brittle:
Sugar
Glucose
Isomalt
Pine nuts
QUANTITY
200 g
4 g
(two sheets)
250 g
4 g
100 g
100 g
100g
400 g
Unsalted butter, brought 75 g
to room temperature
Koshersalt to taste
Foie gras torchon, froze n 400 g
see previous page
from page 3-177
SCALING PROCEDURE
50%
1%
62.5%
1%
25%
25%
25%
100%
18.75%
100%
CD Quarter.
o Refri gerate until use.
Combine, and bring to simmer.
o Refrigerate in small mi xing bowl for 6- 8 h.
Stir, and t horoughl y break up gelee once an hour with long-tined fork. This will give
appearance of shattered glass.
@) Cover gelee, and store refrigerated for no mo re than 1 wk.
(2) Cover baking sheet wit h parchment paper o r sili cone mat, and set as ide for carame l.
Combine sugar, glucose, and isomalt in heavy-bottom sa ucepan.
Cook over medium heat without disturbing until golde n caramel fo rms, 12-15 min, and remove
from heat.
@ Meanwhil e, toast nuts in 150 c 1 300 OF oven until golde n and fragrant, 6- 7 min.
@ Fold into caramel.
@ Stir into caramel until full y incorporated, abo ut 30 s.
@ Pour caramel immedi ate ly onto pre pare d ba king sheet in thin layer, and cool.
@ Break brittl e into small, bi te-s ize pi eces.
Place two tabl espoons of quartered Iychees in bott om of each of eight serving bowls.
@ To p Iychees wi th tabl espoon of Ri esling gelee.
To p gelee wit h tabl es poon of cracke d brittl e.
@ Grate mound of frozen fo ie gras with Mi cro plane o nto each bowl, as gene rously as desired.
DUCK LEG CONFIT WITH POMMES SARLADAISES Yi elds 1.4 kg (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM PAUL A WOLF ERT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Moulard duck legs 1. 6 kg 100%
(four legs)
Confitcure mix 288g 18%
see next page
Rendered duck fat 80 g 5%
Waxy potato, sliced 160 g 10%
5 mm 1'X6 in thick and cut
into 3 em 11 'X. in coins
Water 30 g 1.9%
Re ndered duck fat 20 g 1.25%
Garlic, thinly sliced 5g 0.3%
Salt l .4g 0.09%
Thyme leaves 0.5g 0.03%
from page 3178
PROCEDURE
CD Pack cure evenl y onto duck legs.
o Vacuum seal.
Refri ge rate for 10 h.
o Rinse off cure, and bl ot legs until compl ete ly dry.
Vacuum seal legs indi viduall y with 20 g offat each.
@) Cook sous vide in 82 cl 180 OF bath fo r 8 h.
(2) Cool qui ckl y in ice-wate r bat h, a nd refrigerate.
Vacuum seal together.
Cook sous vide in 88 cl 190 OF bath until just te nde r, 20-25 min.
@ Warmduck legs in 80 cl 176 OF bath for 12 min.
@ Brown legs in ski ll et, skin side down, until skin is cri sp, a bout 4 min.
@ Garni sh cri sped legs wit h potatoes.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 105
CONFIT CURE MIX Yields1.1 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Koshersalt 1 kg 100% <D Combine, vacuum seal, and refri gerate unti l use.
Coriander seeds, toasted 100 g 10% (3) Us e to cure poultry and game.
Garlic cloves, mas hed 11g 1.1%
Star anise, finely crushed 7g 0.7%
Orange zest, fi nely grated 5 g 0. 5%
Thyme leaves 2g 0.2%
Black peppercorns, 0. 8g 0.08%
coarsely crushed
Bay leaves, thinly sliced 0.4 g 0.04%
from page 3179
MISO-CURED BLACK COD I NSP IRED BY NOBU MATSUHI SA Yi elds 500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whitemiso 500g
Mirin 100g
Sake 80g
Shoyu 35 g
White soy sauce 25g
Yuzu zest, finely grated 8g
Lime zest, fin ely grated 5g
Lemon zest, fin ely grated 3 g
Black cod fill et, skin on, 400 g
3.25 cm / 1',4 in thick
Unsalted butter 60g
Toasted sesame seeds 15 g
Ginger powder 4g
N-ZorbitM 4g
(National Starch brand)
Clarified unsalted butter 80g
Daikon, fine juli enne 40g
Spring onion, fine juli enne 40 g
Sesame oil to taste
White soy sauce to taste
Yuzujuice to taste
fro m page 3179
10 6
SCALING
80%
25%
20%
8.75%
6.25%
2%
l.25%
7.5%
100%
15%
3.75%
1%
1%
20%
10%
10%
PROCEDURE
<D Combine to make cure.
(3) Cut into fo ur100 g portions.
Spread cure over all surfaces offish.
@ Vacuu m seal indi viduall y.
@) Refrigerate for 12 h.
Remove from bags, and wipe off excess cure.
(2) Vacuum seal each port ion with 15 g of butter.
Cook sous vide in 49 c / 120 OF bath to core
temperature of48 C/ 1l8 OF, about20 min.
Blend in spice grinde r to fine powder.
@ Dust cooked fish generously with sesame powder.
@ Brown in very hot butter unti l just golde n, about 45 s.
@ Toss together.
@ Garnish each fis h portion.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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GRAPEFRUIT-CURED SALMON
Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Salmon belly, 2.5 cm / 400g
1 in thick
Salt 60g
Sugar 40g
Young Douglas fir buds 30g
Vodka 15g
Pink grapefruit zest, 5g
finely grated
Juniper berries, crushed 4g
Black peppercorns, 2g
finely ground
Douglas fir essential oil 0.1 g
Pink grapefruit 0.1 g
essential oil
from page 3180
SCALING
100%
15%
10%
7.5%
3.75%
1.25%
1%
0.5%
0.025%
0.025%
PROCEDURE
CD Trim, and remove skin.
o Set salmon aside.
Blend, forming wet cure.
o Rub cure onto salmon to completely cover.
Vacuum seal rubbed salmon.
Refrige rate salmon for12 h to cure.
(2) Remove cured salmon from bag.
Rinse cure off wit h water, and dry.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate salmon to store.
Fir tree buds can be picked from
early May through mid-June. You
can om it them if they are not
avai lable-the taste will be subtly
different but sti ll good.
HOUSE-CURED BACON Yields3.5kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Salt 100g
Sugar 72g
Insta Cure No.1 24g
Fermento 7g
Black peppercorns, 4g
coarsely ground
Coriander seeds, toasted, 4g
finely ground
Mace, finely ground 4g
Star anise, 4g
coarsely ground
Sodium erythorbate 2.2g
Pork belly, bone in 4 kg
from page 3182
Although we use Fermento culture
for flavor, this is a cured, ratherthan
a fermented, bacon.
SCALING PROCEDURE
2.5% CD Mix to make cure.
1.8%
0.6%
0.175%
0.1%
0.1%
0.1 %
0.1%
0.055%
100% o Rub cure thoroughly on surface of meat.
Let sit 10 min so that spices adhere.
@ Pack re maining cure around meat.
Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for1 wk, turning over once a day.
(2) Brush away cure from surface of meat.
Hang cl eaned meat on meat hook, and refrigerate uncovered for1 wk in well-ventilated area
so that cure can permeate all areas evenly.
Smoke in 77 C / 170 OF smoker with 60% relative humidity for7 h (wet-bulb temperature:
65 C / 150 OF).
@ Chill for 12 h before using.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
107
,....--
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MICROWAVED BEEF JERKY Yields300g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beef flank steak 500g
Soy sauce 125g
Fish sauce 85g
Sugar 14g
Salt 5.3 g
from page 3184
CRISPY BEEF STRANDS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beefflanksteak 200g
Soy sauce 50g
Fish sauce 34g
Sugar 5.5g
Salt 2g
Canolaoil as needed
from page 5-44
SCALING
100%
25%
17%
2.8%
1.06%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut with grain into even, rectangular strips 5 mm / J.\. in thick, and set aside.
o Combine.
Place meat strips in marinade.
@) Vacuum seal together, and refrigerate for 48 h.
Drain.
Place strips on paper towel-lined tray; pat strips dry.
o Lay three strips in center of microwavable plate.
Microwave at 50% power for1 min, and flip strips over. Repeat four more times for total
cooking time of5 min, and remove jerky.
Repeat steps 7 and 8 with remaining strips, always working with batches ofthree.
To dehydrate the jerky without a microwave, dry the marinated beef strips at
60 C / 140 OF until leathery, 10-12 h.
SCALING
100%
25%
17%
2.8%
1.06%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut with grain into even, rectangular strips, S mm / '14 in thick, and reserve.
o Combine, and place meatstrips in marinade.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for48 h.
@) Drain.
Microwave strips at full power (800 W) until dry, 3-5 min.
Pull strips apart, strand by strand.
o Fry strands in 180 C/ 355 OF o il until dry.
Drain.
Reserve in airtight container with sili ca packets.
Yields 80 g
CRISPY BEEF AND SHALLOT SALAD Yields100g
INGREDIENT
Red shallots, sli ced
1 mm / X. in thick
Canolaoil
Salt
Sweet, sour, and savory
glaze
see page 544
Palm sugar
Crispy beef strands,
warmed
see page 108
Cilantro stems, cut into
1 cm / % in lengt hs
Scallion, fine julienne
Small cilantro leaves
Small mint leaves
Small Thai basil leaves
Lime zest, fine julienne
Bird's eye chili, seeded
and sliced paper-thin
Lime juice
Salt
from page 5-47
'0"
QUANTITY
50g
as needed
as needed
100g
18g
80g
3g
2g
2g
2g
2g
1.5 g
19
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
200%
36%
160%
6%
4%
4%
4%
4%
3%
2%
CD Deep-fry shallot slices in 170 C / 340 OF oil until dry a nd golden.
o Drain on paper towels.
Season shallot sli ces.
@) Reserve in airtight container with si li ca packets.
Warm together, stirring to dissolve sugar and reserve.
Toss together with fried shall ots.
o Fold warm glaze in carefully to taste.
Season.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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JUNIPER BRINE Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water SOO g 100% 0) Combine.
Juniper berries, crushed 60g 12% CD Bring to boil, to di ssolve salt full y.
Salt 35g 7%
Cool, and infuse refri gerated for 12 h.
Coriander seeds 12g 2.4% @) Strain.
lemon zest, grated 4g 0. 8%
Angelica root, sliced 3.2g 0.64%
Bitter orange zest, grated 2.5g 0.5%
Malt, roasted 2g 0.4%
Hops 0.8g 0.16%
Cinnamon stick 0.4 g 0.08%
Ginger, minced 0.4 g 0.08%
Allspice berry 0.2Sg 0.05%
from page S36
SO US VIDE DUCK HAM ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yi elds 750 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Salt 18g
Insta Cure No.1 7.5g
Duck thighs, boneless 1.5 kg
and skinless
Water, warm 100 g
Activa GS or RM 25g
see page 3250
from page 587
SCALING
1.2%
0.5%
100%
6.7%
1.7%
(25%)*
PROCEDURE
0) Combine to make cure.
CD Coat duck thighs with cure.
Combine to pre pare slurry.
@) Brush cured duck thi ghs wit h slurry.
Pl ace duck thighs in terrine.
@ Vacuum seal.
o Refrigerate terrine fo r 12 h.
Cook so us vide in 69 C / 156 OF bath for 6 h.
Top bagged terrine wi th weight to fl atten.
@ Refrigerate unti l cool.
@ Freeze and sli ce duck ham into sheets 1 mm / \1,6 in thi ck on meat slicer.
*(% of total weight of water)
FOIE GRAS AND HAZELNUT GANACHE Yields650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Cognac 60g
Sauternes 30 g
Sweet onions, 100 g
finely minced
Rendered duck fat 15g
Raw duck foie gras 300 g
Roasted hazelnut butter 100g
Unsalted butter 50g
Roasted hazelnut oil 25g
Salt 5g
Insta Cure No. 1 3.25 g
from page 5128
SCALING PROCEDURE
20% 0) Reduce to 20 g and reserve.
10%
33%
5%
100%
33%
16.7%
8.3%
1.7%
(7%)*
1.08%
(0.7%)*
CD Sweat unti l tender without coloring, about 10 min.
Combine alcohol reduct ion, onions and remaining ingredients, and pu ree unti l smooth.
@) Pass through fine sieve.
Freeze in Pacojet beaker, and reserve.
@ To serve, Pacotize o nce and fo rm into quenell es. Serve with toasted bread.
*(% of total weight offoie gros, hazelnut butter, unsalted butter, and hazelnut oil)
MEAT AND SEAfOOD 10 9
FLUKE CURED IN KOMBU ADAPTED FROM KYLE CONNAUGHTON Yields350g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Dry kombu sheets, about eight sheets
20 em / 8 in long
Fluke fillets, 1.5 em /:y.. in 400 g
thick, skinned and side fin (four whole
muscle removed fillets)
Salt 40 g
Kombu powder(store- 8 g
bought)
Sugar
So us vide ponzu
see page 22
from page 3181
8g
SCALING
100%
10%
2%
2%
PROCEDURE
CD Soak in cold water for until full y hydrated, about 20 min.
o Grind together to fine powder.
Dust evenl y over one side offi"ets.
o Lay fi ll ets, seasoned side down, on kombu sheets.
Dust evenly with remaining salt, and cover with second sheet of kombu.
@) Vacuum seal, and refri gerate for 1 h to cure surface .
(2) Remove fi ll ets from cure, pat dry, and vacuum seal.
To serve, slice fluke thinly. Serve ponzu o n side.
BLACKSTRAP MOLASSES COUNTRY HAM
Yields 6 kg
ADAPTED FROM MICHAEL RUHLMAN AND BRIAN POLCYN
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Kosher salt 1.3 kg
Insta Cure No.2 340g
(or DQ Curing Salt)
Dark brown sugar 450g
Blackstrap molasses 617g
Dark rum 210g
Ginger, grated or minced 109
Juniper berries, crushed 8g
Cayenne pepper 3g
Coriander seeds, black, 19
toasted and ground
Fresh ham, skin on, 7 kg
aitchbone removed
from page 3183
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine.
26%
35%
47%
16%
0.8%
0.6%
0.2%
0.08%
540%
o Add to salt blend, and stir together.
Rub cure a" over ham, applying more to area around exposed bone.
o Put in nonreactive container large enough for ham and for liquid that cure wi" draw out.
Pl ace 7 kg of we ight on ham, using platter or board with weights on top.
@) Refrigerate for 12-15 d (1 d per '/2 kg). Turn ham; after 6 d, redistribute cure as necessary.
(2) Remove ham from refrigerator, and rinse off cure unde r cold water.
Soak in cold water for 8 h to remove residual surface salt.
Set ham on rack, and refrigerate uncovered for 8 h.
@ Cold-smoke ham at 15 C / 60 OF for 18 h.
@ Hang ham to dry in cool, dark place, ideall y at 15 C / 60 OF with 65%-75% rel ative humidity,
for7wk.
vnlllMF h KITrHFN MANUAL
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CURED BEEF TENDERLOIN "BRESAOLA STYLE"
Yields300 g
INGREDIENT
Beeftenderloin (or
venison tenderloin),
5 cm /2 in thick
Espresso roast coffee,
ground
Salt
Sugar
Cocoa nibs
Black pepper
Juniper berries
QUANTITY
lkg
50g
40g
40g
16 g
10 g
109
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Remove silver skin, and trim tapered e nd for even curing.
(3) Setaside.
5%
4%
4%
1.75%
1%
1%
Grind together to medium coarse.
@) Pack all over surface of tenderloin, and vacuum seal.
If making cured carpaccio, refrigerate for1 wk. Flip bag every 2 d to e nsure even curing.
Rinse, and pat dry.
<2) Slice thinly, and pound to desired thickness; orfreeze, and slice paper thin on meat slicer.
If making true bresaola, cure for 3 wk.
Rinse, and pat dry.
Insta Cure No.2 2g 0 .2%
@ Tiewith butchers twine, and hang for minimum of 1 wk and up to 1 mo in refri gerator. Hanging
time determines dryness of final texture.
Fermented black garlic 80g 8%
(store-bought)
Extra-virgin olive oil 40g 4%
Lemonjuice 15g 1.5%
White balsamic 13g 1.3%
Salt to taste
Wild arugula 50g 5%
Wild blackberries, halved 30 g 3%
Celery stalk, peeled and 25g 2.5%
thinly sliced
Celery leaves
109
1%
Lemonjuice to taste
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
Flaky sea salt to taste
from page 3185
SEA URCHIN BOTTARGA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sea urchin tongues (gonads) 200 g
Salt 500 g
Beeswax 500 g
from page 3186
CD Pass sea urchin tongues through fine sieve.
@ Sli ce thinly.
@ Blend until smooth, and pass through fine sieve.
@ Verify seasoning.
@ Spoon small amou nt offermented garlic paste across each plate.
@ Arrange sl ices of cured carpaccio o r bresaola on each plate.
@ Garnish with celery slices, arugu la, blackberries, and celery leaves.
@) Season with salt, olive oil , and lemon juice.
Yields150 g
SCALING
100%
250%
250%
(3) Pipe into sous vide bag molded into shape offish roe sac, which is a thin, tapered triangle.
Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 64 C / 147 OF bath for 50 min. Leave in bag, and chi ll in ice-water bath unti l
hardened, about20 min.
@) Pack cooked sea urchin in salt. Ensure all sides are completely covered, and refrigerate for 12 h.
Remove from cure. Rinse, and pat dry on paper towels.
Wrap cured sea urchin in cheesecloth. Tie both ends of cheesecloth with butcher's twine. Hang in refrigerator for
2 mo to yield sliceable, fudge-like consi stency, o r for 3 mo to make dry enough to grate.
<2) Melt beeswax, and dip dried sea urchin carefully into wax to coat completely.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
MEAT AND SEAfOOD 111
~
SALTED HALIBUT
INGREDIENT
Salt
Sugar
QUANTITY
750 g
150g
Lemon zest, finel y grated 15 g
Lime zest, finely grated 10 g
Halibutfillet, skin on, cut 2 kg
into strips 5 cm / 2 in thick
from page 3187
HALIBUT BRANDADE
Yields 1.2 kg
SCALING PROCEDURE
37.5% CD Mi x togethe r to form cure.
7.5%
0.75%
0. 5%
100% o Rub cure on strips to cover compl etely.
@) Vacuum seal strips.
@ Refri gerate fo r 48 h.
Remove from bag, and rinse, di scard ing cure and
rende re d jui ces.
Wrap single layer of cheesecl oth aro und each cured
strip.
o Ti e both ends of cheesecl oth with butche r's twine.
Hang wrapped fi sh in refri geratorfo r1 5 d to air-dry.
Re move fro m cheesecl oth.
@Vacuum seal, and refr igerate indefinite ly unti l needed.
@ To serve, soak in water or mil k for 48 h, refrigerated,
changing soaking liquid every 12 h.
@ Use for making brandade or lutefis k.
For a recipe for brandade. see page 112.
For a lutefisk recipe. see page 114.
Yi elds800g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk
Salted halibut
opti onal, see above
as needed CD Soa k hali but in mi lk, refri gerated, for 12 h.
160 g 100% 0 Drain fish, and discard milk.
@) Repeat ste ps 1 and 2 three mo re times, fo r total soaking time of48 h. Reserve 20 g of li quid
fro m fin al soa king.
Garli c, sli ced and
blanched twice
25 g 16% @ Vacuum seal halibut, reserved soaking liquid, and garli c togethe r.
Water lkg
Yukon Gold orotherwaxy 250 g
potatoes, thinly sli ced
Extra virgin olive oil 90 g
Salt
Itali a n basil, julienne
Roasted hazelnut oi l
from page 5152
to taste
to taste
to taste
625%
156%
56%
Cook sous vide in 58 "C / 135 "F bath to core temperat ure of 57 "C / 133 "F, about 20 min. Hold
at te mperature for 15 min.
Pulse in foo d processor until fin e ly shredded.
o Vacuum seal potatoes with wate r in thin, even layer.
Cook sous vide in 90 "C/ 194 "F bat h for 45 min.
Drain potatoes, and pass through ri cer.
@ Mix into potatoes.
@ Pass th rough fin e sieve.
@ Fold si eved potatoes into shredded hali but mi xture.
@ Warm bra ndade and season.
@ Garni sh.
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SEAFOOD PAPER ADAPTED FROM CARLO CRACCO Yields80 g
INGREDIENT
Whitefish
(prawns, scallops, or
squid may be substituted)
QUANTITY
250g
Squid ink (optional) 1.25 g
from page 31BB
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
0.5%
0) Blend to fine puree in food processor or Pacojet, if availabl e.
o Pass through fine sieve.
Cast fish or shel lfish puree paper-thin (1 mm / v" in thi ck) onto si li cone baking mat.
o Cover with anot her sil icone baking mat.
Roll out evenly to 0.5 mm /164 in with roll ing pin.
Dehydrate at 70 c / 15B of until sheets are dry but still fl exibl e, about 15 min.
o Remove top sili cone mat, and return to dehydrator or oven unt il surface of sheet is leathery,
about3 mi n.
Cut to desired dimensions, and reserve.
BACON CHIPS WITH BUTTERSCOTCH, APPLE, AND THYME Yields 160 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ
INGREDIENT
Cured bacon strips,
10 cm / 4 in long and
2 mm / \1,. in t hick
Granny Smith apples,
halved and cored
Sugar
Light corn syrup
Heavy cream
Black pepper
Thyme leaves
fro m page 3189
QUANTITY
100g
400g
250g
150g
375 g
to taste
to taste
SCALING
100%
400%
250%
150%
375%
PROCEDURE
0) Place bacon on dehydrator tray.
o Dehydrate at 80 C / 175 OF for 3 h.
Store dehydrated bacon chips in airtight container.
o Pl ace on tray lined with sili cone mat.
Roast in 190 C / 375 OF oven for 30 min.
Cool.
o Scoop out fl es h from skins.
Puree flesh in ble nder.
Pass through chinois.
@ Spray acetate sheet with nonstick cooking spray, and wipe off excess liquid.
@ Spread puree with pal ette knife in layer 2 mm / \1,. in thi ck.
@ Dehydrate at 70 C / 160 OF for 45 min.
@ Cut resu lting appl e leat he r into strips, 3 mm by 10 cm / 1. in by 4 in.
@ Reserve.
@ Whisk togethe r in small pot, and cook to 190 C / 375 OF to make caramel.
@ Whisk into caramel to make butterscotch.
@) Heatto 11 5 C/ 240 F.
@ Pour o nto silicone mat, and cool.
@ Transfer to pastry bag.
@ Pipe dots of butterscotch onto each bacon chip, starting 2.5 cm / 1 in from top of strip, and
leavi ng 6 mm / '.4 in between dots.
@ Wind six apple leather strips around each bacon chip, using butterscotch as glue.
@ Season.
@Attach to bacon chips using small amount of butterscotch.
MEAT AN D SEAFOOD 11 3
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Instead offlank steak, thin sli ces of
beef short ribs can be used.
The pH level of the marinade
should be around 4.5.
Dependingon howtenderyou like
yourfl ank steak, the cooking time
can be increased to 24 hours.
Jaccarding the steak improves its
tenderness directly and, if done
before marinating, also makes the
mari nade work better. Vacuum
tumbling for 30 minutes reduces
marination time greatly. For more
onJaccarding, see page 350; for
vacuum tumbling, see page 31 74.
Lutefisk is an acq ui red taste and
texture, but it has been a Scandina-
vian delicacy for many centuri es.
The dimensions ofthe fish are
important for a good final result.
The fish should be uniform in size
and at least 4 cm / 1 Y, in thick for
the brining time to be accurate.
Small e r pieces offish require some
experimentation wit h brining ti me.
If making with salted halibut or cod,
omit salt from brine.
1 .
KALBI FLANK STEAK
Yieldsl kg
INGREDIENT
Flank steak, trimmed
Water
Sugar
Li ght soy sauce
Fish sauce
Apple jui ce (fresh)
Toasted sesame oi l
Mirin
Scallions, t hinl y sliced
Garlic, crushed
Rice vinegar
Korean chi li fl akes
Black pepper, coarsely
ground
Kimchi
see page 175
from page 3199
LUTEFISK
INGREDIENT
Halibut
Water
Sodium hydroxide
Salt
Unsalted butter
Salt
from page 3200
QUANTITY
1 kg
300g
175g
150 g
75g
50g
30 g
23 g
20g
10 9
10 g
5g
3g
as des ired
QUANTITY
SCALING PROCEDURE
333% CD Reserve.
100%
58.5%
50%
25%
16.5%
10%
7.5%
6.5%
3.5%
3.5%
1. 5%
1%
(3) Combine, and stir unti l sugar is dissolved.
Vacuum seal steak with marinade.
o Marinate in refrigerato r for 5 d.
Remove steak from marinade, and vacuum seal again.
@) Cook so us vide in 54 C / 129 OF bath for1 h.
o Coo!.
Trim steak to desired size, and sear both sides qui ckly.
Sli ce, and serve wit h kimchi, butter lettuce and shi so
leaves, kochujang paste, an d other banchan (Korean
side dishes).
Yields 800 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
1 kg 100% CD Remove skin, and cut away thin e nds.
(one large pi ece)
3.5 kg 350% (3) Whisk water and sodium hydroxide together until
25g
25g
100g
to taste
2.5%
(7%)*
2.5%
(7%)*
d issolve d to make brine.
Place fis h in brine, and refrigerate for 24 h.
o Drain fish, and d iscard brine.
Vacuum seal, a nd refri gerate for 24 h to all ow brine to
equilibrate through fish.
@) Remove from bag, cover in fres h water, and soak
refrigerated fo r 48 h.
o Change water, and soak again for 48 h, refri gerated.
Drain.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate to store indefinitely.
10% @ Toserve, vacuum seal wit h fish.
@ Cook so us vide in 50 c / 122 OF bath for 45 min.
@ Season.
*(% ojweightojwoterl
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YAKITORI
INGREDIENT
Mirin
Honey (clear)
Light soy sauce
(no vinegar added)
Sake (dry)
Ginger juice (fres h)
Pineapple rind and flesh,
cubed
Rice vinegar
Salt
Chicken skin
Chicken oysters orthigh
meat cut into 2.5 cm/l in
pieces, skinless
Yakitori sauce,
from above
Chicken thigh meat,
coarse ground
Tokyo negi {Japanese
leek), finely minced
Eggwhite
Yakitori sauce,
from above
Toasted sesame oil
Young ginger, finely
minced
Salt
Sansho pepper, ground
Yakitori sauce,
from above
Japanese charcoal
from page 3201
QUANTITY
400g
220g
200g
200g
10 9
550g
50g
30g
200g
200g
30 g
400g
45g
35 g
20g
10 9
6g
4g
19
200g
as needed
SCALING
100%
55%
50%
50%
2.5%
137.5%
12.5%
7.5%
25%
50%
7.5%
200%
11.25%
8.75%
5%
2.5%
1.5%
1%
0.25%
50%
~ For a step-by-step procedure for pressure-marinating,
~ see page 3207.
~
~
Yields 600 g (four portions)
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk together, and bring soy sauce mi xtu re to simmer.
o Pour hot soy sauce mi xt ure over pineappl e cubes, and cool completely.
Vacuum sea l, and macerate 12 h, refrigerated.
@ Strain yakitori sauce.
Season with vinegar and salt, and reserve.
Cook so us vide in 88 C/ 190 OF bath for 2 h.
0) Drain from cooking jui ces, pat d ry, and cool.
Cut cooked skin into st rips 2.5 cm by 12.5 em 11 in by 5 in.
Thread onto soaked bamboo skewers, and reserve.
@ Combine in bottom of 1 I whipping siphon to pressure-marinate.
@ Charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges, shake, and refrigerate for 20 min.
@ Ve nt pressure, remove pi eces from sipho n, and skewe r individuall y.
@ Stir together until all compone nts are evenl y distributed.
<9 Make fo ur meatballs 5 em 11 in. in di ameter by using pl asti c wrap to shape tightly.
@ Skewer meatball s indi viduall y.
@ Blanch in 190 cl 375 OF oil for 5 s to set shape of meatball.
Reserve.
@ Reduce to 65 g (li ght syrup), abo ut 15 min. Cool and reserve.
@ Burn coals in bottom of hibachi or simi lar gri ll until coals are white.
@) Setgrill screen on top of hot coals, and grill marinate d chicke n oysters and meatball s for
2-3 min o n each side.
@ Remove from heat, and brush all pi eces with thin layer of yakitori glaze.
@ Deep-fry skewe red chi cken skin in 190 C I 375 OF oil fo r 2 min until very crispy and li ghtly
puffed.
@ Drain from oil, and brush with thin layer of yakitori glaze.
@ Gri ll glazed chi cken oyster, meatball, and ski n skewers for 1 min on each side.
@) Remove from heat, brush meatball with final layer of glaze, and serve.
MEAT AND SEAfOOD
115
,. ;r= .
TUNA RIBBONS WITH GINGER MARINADE
ADAPTED FROM JEAN-GEORGES VONG ERICHTEN
INGREDIENT
Limejuice
Sugar
Makrud (kaffir) lime
leaves, thinly sliced
Ginger, peeled, thinly
sl iced
Rice vinegar
White soy sauce
Shoyu
Grapeseed oil
Avocado, peeled and
thinly sliced
Lime juice
Salt
Tuna (sashimi-quality),
cut into thin, spaghetti-like
ribbons
8reakfast radish, sliced
very thinly on mandoline
Spi ced chi li oil
see page29
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf,
fine juli enne
from page 3202
QUANTITY
100g
80g
20g
60g
50g
40g
36 g
30g
100 g
to taste
to taste
300 g
50 g
25 g
Sg
SCALING
33%
27%
6.5%
20%
17%
13.5%
12%
10%
33%
100%
17%
8.5%
1.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal togethe r.
@) Cook sous vide in 55 C / 131 OF bath fo r lYz h.
Cool lime syrup completely.
0 Strain.
Measure 40 g of syrup, and reserve.
Saute in dry pan unti l sli ghtl y charred, about 5 min.
o Blend with ginger and reserved lime syrup unti l smooth.
Reserve ginger marinade.
Season avocado sli ces, and arrange in serving bowls.
@ Gently combine tuna with radish sli ces, chi li oil , and lime leaves.
@ Top each avocado portion with spoonful of tuna mixture.
@ Pour ginger marinade around bowls, and serve.
Yields 600 g (eight portions)
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FLUKE CEVICHE ADAPTED FROM ERI C RIPERT
Yields 500 g (four to eight portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fluke fillet (sushi-quality) 400 g
BOg
30 g
30g
100%
20%
7.5%
7.5%
Fluke fill et, diced
Lemon juice (fresh)
Lime juice (fresh)
Red onion, sli ced 20g 5%
(quarter of onion)
Sugar 13 g 3.25%
Fine sea salt
Rendered fluke juice,
from above
1O.sg
sOg
Red onion, juli enne 16 g
Extra-virgin olive oi l 12 g
Cilantro, julienne 10 g
Tomato, blanched, 10 g
peeled, and finely di ced
Jalapeno pepper, minced 4 g
Basil, julienne 2.5 g
Mint, julienne 1.2 g
Lemon-infused oli ve oil to taste
Espelette pepper to taste
Salt to taste
from page 3203
2.5%
12. 5%
4%
3%
2.5%
2.5%
1%
0.5%
0. 3%
G) Sli ce on bias into segments, 1.75 cm by 5 cm / % in by 2 in.
@) Lay slices in single layer on large pl ate.
Cover with plastic wrap.
o Refri gerate.
Combine.
Cover.
([) Refrigerate for1 h to macerate.
Strain thro ugh fine sieve, and reserve SO g of flu ke jui ce.
Combine in bowl to make marinade.
@ Season fluke sli ces.
@ Cover sli ces with marinade, and all ow to stand for 2- 5 min, depending on desired firmness.
@ To serve, divide ceviche among fo ur small bowl s.
@ Garnish with more peppe r, and serve imme di ately.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 117
For better marinade penetration,
use a Jaccard tenderizer after
slat hering the chi cken with the
marinade, but be careful not to
break the blades on the chicken
bones.
Kashmiri chili punctuates a dish
with bright red color and is onl y
mildl y hot.
11 8
CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Water 24g 5%
Saffron threads 0.5g 0.1%
Coriander seeds, toasted 5 g 1%
Cumin seeds, toasted 5g 1%
Cinnamon, toasted 1 g 0.2%
Clove, toasted 1 g 0.2%
Greek-style strained 250g 50%
yogurt (plain, fu ll fat)
Neutral oil 100g 20%
Shallots, thinly sli ced 25 g 5%
Ginger, fine paste 24g 4.8%
Garlic, fine paste 109
2%
Kashmiri chili 109 2%
Annatto seeds 8g 1.5%
Green Thai chili, finely 5g 1%
chopped
Bay leaves, fine julienne 1 g 0.2%
Chi cken breast, skinned 500g 100%
Chicken thigh, bonel ess 500g 100%
and skinned
Marinade, from above 200g 40%
Clarifi e d unsalted butter 40 g 8%
Marinade, from above 50 g 10%
Clarified butter as needed
lime jui ce 100g 20%
Shal lots, finely sliced 50 g 10%
Green chili, finely sliced 15g 3%
Sa lt to taste
Ci lantro, fine julienne to taste
Mint, fine juli enne to taste
from page 3204
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yields1 kg
PROCEDURE
CD Pour hot water over saffron threads.
o Cove r, steep fo r 10 min, and then strain water, and
reserve.
Toast spices in dry skill et or 170 ' C/ 340 ' F oven until
aromat ic.
o Cool.
Grind spices to fine powder.
@) Reserve.
CD Blend together to fine paste.
Add spice powder and saffron- infused water to make
marinade.
Reserve 50 g for later use.
@ Clean, and trim off any excess fat.
@ Cut thighs and breasts into total of e ight pieces,
125 g each.
@ Slice three cuts across thick side of each thi gh for
marinade to penetrate.
@ Place a ll chicke n pieces in 200 g of marinade, and toss
to coat thoroughl y.
@ Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate for 12 h.
@ Remove chi cken from marinade.
@ Vacuum seal breasts and th ighs in two separate bags
wi t h 20 g each of clarified butter.
@ Cook breasts so us vide in 60 ' C / 140 ' F bath for 2 h.
@ Cook thighs sous vide in 65 ' C /149 ' F bath for 1 Y, h .
@ Simmerfor 5 min.
@ Cool at room temperature.
@) Brush over cooked chicken.
Heatthin fi lm of clarified butter over hi gh heat. Sear
chicken pieces, skin side only, until cri sp, about 90 s.
Remove from pan.
@) Combine, and season with salt.
Ga rni sh chi cken wit h lime dressing, cilantro, and mint.
~
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GONG BAO CHICKEN ADAPTED FROM FUCHS IA DUNLOP Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Chicken breast, boneless 400g
Water 50g
light soy sauce 10 9
Potato starch 7g
Shaoxingwine 5g
Bakingsoda 19
White chicken stock 20g
see page 11
Sugar 15g
Chinkiang vinegar 12 g
Toasted sesame oil 5g
Dark soy sauce 4g
light soy sauce 4g
Potato starch
19
Neutral oil 5g
Dried red chili pepper 8g
Sichuan peppercorns 8g
(whole)
Scallions, whites only, 24g
thinly sli.ced
Garlic, thinly sliced 18g
Ginger, thinly sliced 18g
Peanuts, blanched and 75g
peeled
Salt to taste
from page 3205
SCALING
100%
12.5%
2.5%
1.75%
1.25%
0.25%
5%
3.75%
3%
l.25%
1%
1%
0.25%
l.25%
2%
2%
6%
4.5%
4.5%
19%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut into 1.5 cm / % in strips.
o Cut strips into small cubes, and reserve.
Whisk together.
o Mix into chi cken, taking care to coat all pieces evenly.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for12 h to marinate.
Remove chi cken from marinade, and reserve.
o Whisk together until everything is incorporated.
Reserve resulting sauce.
Heatwok, and add oil.
@ Add chili and pepper when oil is about to smoke.
@ Stir-fry until crisp and fragrant.
@ Add marinated chicken, and fry on high flame for
about5 min.
@ Add to wok, and stir-fry until chicken is cooked, about
2 min.
@ Add sauce, and cook until thick, about 45 s.
@ Roast peanuts in 170 c / 340 of oven until colored
golden brown, or us e pressure-cooked fried peanuts
(see page 565).
@ Add peanuts, and adjust seasoning.
BEET JUICE-FED OYSTERS ADAPTED FROM DAVE ARNOLD AND NILS NOREN
INGREDIENT
Kusshi oysters
Red beet juice
Aquarium salt
QUANTITY
12 oysters
1.25 kg
(from 2 kg of
beets)
32.5g
SCALING
100%
2.6%
PROCEDURE
CD Rinse oysters thoroughl y to remove any grit.
o Arrange, upright and evenly layered, in metal container.
Blend.
@) Strain juice through fine (500 micron / 0.02 in) sieve.
Pour over oysters to cover.
Seal containe r tightly with lid.
Known as kung pao chicken to
millions of American fans of
Chinese food, this is a classic dish.
The alkaline marinade, wh ich
includes baking soda, tenderizes
the chi cken and also promotes the
Maillard reaction when the chicken
cooks.
The baking soda marinade tech-
nique works beaut ifull y with other
lean cuts of meats, such as pork and
beef tenderloin.
Yields 12 oysters
o Refrigerate for48 h. Do not disturb, or oysters will not feed on juice.
from page 3206
Us ing a 500 micron sieve to strain the juice is essential to prevent the
oysters from suffocating on larger particles.
MEA T AND SEAfOOD 119
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~
HOT- AND COLD-SMOKED MEATS AND SEAFOOD
CD Select a reci pe from the table be low, an d pre pare the meat as indicated.
See the referenced pages for further instructions.
Cook so us vide or otherwise. Some smoked foods, such as hams or
smoked salmon, are mea nt to be consumed raw after smoking.
@) Smoke. Suggested smoking temperatures, humidities, and times are li sted
in the tabl e. Not all smokers permit humidity control, but an improvised
wet-bulb thermometer will help (see page 3211). Adjust the smoking time
to impart more or less smoke fl avor.
@ Season and finish. Many barbecued items are sea red bri efly at hi gh heat
or glazed. Fin ish by adding spices, dry rubs, or sauces.
Best Bets for Smoking Meats
Prep
Ingredient Method
Cold-smoked
pork, Boston butt nl a
pork ribs nl a
foie gras, torchon cure
ham cure
salmon (Scottish) cure
pork cheek brine
pork chop brine
sablefish, black cod brine
whitefish brine
beef fillet, raw nl a
caviar and fish roe nl a
oyster nl a
foie gras, raw nl a
salmon, Russian style cure
chicken, whole brine inj ected
pork chop brine
_ ... -
Hot-smoked
beef fillet, cured cure
beef cheek pastrami brine
beef short ribs nl a
brisket pastrami brine
pork belly (for bacon) cure
beef tongue brine inj ected
chicken, whole brine inj ected
beefflatiron n/ a
pork ribs nl a
pork butt nl a
sausage nl a
---- ---
from page 3210
120
See page
3176
3183
3256
3168
3168
76
31 68
3168
3168
3168
3185
3257
3257
3182
3168
3168
Dry-bulb
temperature
(OC) (OF)
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
10 50
25 77
25 77
25 77
25 77
52 126
77 171
77 171
77 171
77 171
77 171
77 171
60 140
65 149
65 149
52 126
Smoke
Wet-bulb
temperature
(OC) (OF)
6.5 44
6.5 44
6.5 44
6.5 44
6.5 44
6.5 44
6.5 44
6.5 44
6.5 44
8 46
8 46
8 46
18 64
18 64
18 64
18 64
48 11 8
62 144
66 151
62 144
66 151
66 151
66 151
55 131
57 135
57 135
48 11 8
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Relative Time
humidity (h) Cook See page
60% 24 yes 86
60% 24 yes 566
60% 24 optional 96
60% 24 optional 86
70% 24 no
60% 24 yes 86,535
60% 24 yes 68
60% 24 optional 5170
60% 24 yes 74
80% 24 yes 68
80% 12 no
80% 24 optional 5205
50% 4 no
50% 4 no
50% 4 yes 3,71
50% 4 yes 68
----
80% 12 no
50% 4 yes 121
60% 4 yes 90
50% 7 yes 86
60% 7 optional 86
60% 4 yes 86
60% 4 optional 71,122
77% 4 yes 86,89
65% 7 yes 86,88
65% 7 yes 86,566
80% 12 yes 128, 130
---
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RUSSIAN SMOKED SALMON
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Salt 225 g 15%
Sugar 120 g 8%
--
Salmon fillet, whole side, 1.5 kg 100%
-
skin on, pin bones
-
removed
-
-
-
from page 3212
BEEF CHEEK PASTRAMI
Yields 1.2 kg
PROCEDURE
CD Combine to make cure.
Pack evenly onto both sides offish.
Vacuum seal, and refrige rate fish for12 h to cure.
o Rinse off cure from surface offish.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for another 24 h to allow
the salt to fully diffuse through the meat.
Smoke at 25 ' c / 77 ' F with 60% relative humidity
for4 h.
o Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate until use.
Yields 1 kg
.... INSPIRED BY JEAN PAUL CARMONA AND DAVID KINCH
--'
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Wagyu beef cheeks, 1 kg
cleaned (about 4 cheeks)
Water 2.25 kg
Brown sugar 145g
Salt 75g
Insta Cure No.1 15g
Coriander seeds, toasted 3.5 g
Black peppercorns 2.5g
Mustard powder 2.5g
Pink peppercorns 2g
Cinnamon stick, toasted 19
and crushed
Fennel seeds 1 g
Cloves (whole) 0.5g
Red pepper flakes 0.25g
Bay leaf 0.2g
juniper berries 75g
Sugar 75 g
Black peppercorns 72g
......
.-'
Coriander seeds, toasted 42g
Garlic powder 10 9
Salt 109
Chili flakes 6.5g
from page 3213
......
-
......
-
SCALING
100%
225%
14.5%
7.5%
1.5%
0.35%
0.25%
0.25%
0.02%
0.1 %
0.1 %
0.05%
0.025%
0.02%
7.5%
7.5%
7.2%
4.2%
1%
1%
0.65%
PROCEDURE
CD Trim off any sil ver skin and excess fat.
Boil 500 g of water with suga r and salts to dissolve.
Remove brine from heat, add remaining water, and
cool.
o Combine aromatics with cooled brine.
Vacuum seal beef cheeks with chill ed brine.
Refri gerate for 72 h.
o Re move cheeks from brine, and reserve brine.
Pat dry cheeks.
Reserve.
@) Grind together coarsely in coffee grinder to make
spice rub.
@ Rub cheeks with 50 g(5% of their weight) of spice rub .
@ Smoke for 4 h at 77 ' C/ 171 ' F.
@ Boil reserved brine, and skim off surface foam.
@) Strain and cool.
@ Vacuum seal smoked cheeks with 1 kg of cooled
brine.
@ Cook sous vide in 62 ' C/144 ' F bath for 72 h.
If serving immedi ately, rest for 15 min at room
temperature, and sli ce. Otherwise, cool quickly in
ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
For lox-style salmon, use a 3% salt
and 1.5% sugar rub (with weights
relative to the weight of the fish),
and vacuum seal the fish refrige r-
ated for 48 h.
For Scottish-style salmon, use a
3.5% salt rub, and vacuum sea l
refrigerated for 36 h. Follow the
remaini ng steps described in the
recipe for both styles.
Food critic j effrey Steingarten (see
page 165) likes to say that New York
City has its own local barbecue
tradition: the pastrami prepared by
the city's many j ewish del icates-
sens. The most famous places for
pastrami are Carnegie Deli in
Midtown and Katz's Deli in the
Lower East Side.
Pastrami might seem quite different
than southe rn barbecue, but it
certai nl y qual ifies as part of that
cuisine: cured and spiced meatthat
is smoked and then cooked low
and slow.
This pastrami recipe also works well
with other cuts of meat. Simply use
the table below to adjust the brining
time, and see page 86 for cooking
times and temperatures.
Brine
Cut
(d)
short rib, bone in 6
short rib, boneless 3
beef tongue 7
brisket, fatty end 7
121
~
~
HAY-SMOKED CHICKEN CROWN Yields 1 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole chi cken lkg
Water 400g
Salt 28g
Thyme 2g
Yellow sweet meadow 100g
hay orstraw
from page 5114
Alternatively, smoke cheeks in a
conventional smoker for 2 h. The
taste wi ll be differe nt but still good.
100%
40%
2.8%
0.2%
10%
o Remove legs and wings.
o Cut through ribs to remove bone-in crown, and reserve crown.
Optionally, reserve carcass, legs, and wings for sauce vin jaune (see page 308).
o Combine to make brine.
Immerse crown in brine.
Refrigerate for 12 h.
o Drain and rinse crown.
Lay hay in bottom of hotel pan.
Place crown in centerofhay, and coverwith more hay.
@ Ignite hay with blowtorch until burning.
@ Cover with another pan, and let smolde r for 10 min.
@ Remove crown from hay, and cool completely.
@ Peel away skin, and di scard.
@ Cook chicken crown in 65 O( / 150 OF combi oven with 0% relat ive humid ity until core
temperature reaches 60 O( / 140 OF for about 2 h, depending o n size of chi cken. If using CVap
oven, set browning level to 4 and doneness temperature as above.
@ Optionall y, to pasteuri ze, lower temperature to 60 0( / 140 OF, and hold for 1 h.
SMOKED PORK CHEEK Yields 240 g
INGREDIENT
Pork cheek, sinew
removed
Alderwood chips
Cherry wood chips
Brown pork stock
see page 6
from page 5-38
QUANTITY
300g
(fou r cheeks)
as needed
as needed
150g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
50 %
o Cold-smoke at 7 O( / 45 OF wit h 50% relative humidity
for 24 h, which will produce wet-bulb te mpe rature of
3 O( / 37 OF.
o Vacuum seal pork cheek with stock.
o Cook sous vide in 68 O( / 154 OF bath for 48 h.
o Sli ce and serve, or cool, in bag, in ice-water bath, and
refri gerate.
HEATHER-SMOKED STURGEON Yields450g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Wild sturgeon fillet 500 g
Vodka 35 g
Salt 20g
Sugar 7g
Le mon zest, finely grated 2 g
Cherry wood chi ps 750g
Dried heather blossoms 100 g
from page 5235
SCALING
100%
7%
4%
1.4%
0.4%
150%
20%
PROCEDURE
o Combine vodka, salt, sugar, and lemon zest to make
cure. Coat fillet evenly with cure.
o Vacuum seal.
Cure in refrigerator for 8 h.
o Rinse, and pat dry with paper towels.
Smoke fillet wit h chi ps and blossoms at 52 0( / 125 OF
with 50% relat ive humidity fo r 4 h.
Serve, or cool and refrigerate until use.
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SMOKED OCTOPUS ADAPTED FROM JOA N ROCA
Yields 300 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Baby octopuses, heads 150g 100% CD Pat dry, and coat li ghtl y with oil.
removed and set as ide
Sear on grill until just cooked through, about 4 min,
for other use
turning once.
Frying oil as nee ded
Baked potato foam 150 g 100% o Vacuum seal.
see page 324
0) Warm in 70 ' C/ 158 ' F bath.
Pistou basil leaves to taste Cover four glass bowls with layer of plastic wrap,
Salt to taste
pulling tight ly on each until plastic is invi sibl e.
Sweet smoked paprika to taste
@ Top plastic wrap with warmed potato foam.
{Pi menton de la Vera, (]) Top foam with octopuses.
dulce}
Season and reserve.
Oak wood sawdust, 15 g 10% Place in smoke gun, and warm end of gun.
finely ground
@ Poke tip of gun into plastic wrap, and fi ll bowl with
smoke. Repeat qui ckly for remaining three bowls.
@ Serve immediately.
from page 3215
Although the heads are removed,
the arms of each octopus should
sti ll be connected to its body.
~ HAMBURGERS
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CD Choose a blend of we ll -marbled meat, and chill the meat deeply. Th e
tabl e Best Bets for Burgers lists several good options, each of whi ch has a
different fl avor, text ure, and cooking profil e.
Put ice cubes or liquid nitrogen in the grinder to chil l it to just a bove
o ' c /32 ' F.
o Cut. Cut away any large chun ks offat from the meat, and cut into cubes
about 2 cm / 3A in on a side. Chi ll the meat to -1 ' c / 30 ' F.
Do not sa lt the meat.
0) Grind the cubes t hrough a 3-4 mm I Ys-'X. in plate. (For te nder meat
blends, chop by hand, and t he n shape into a loose patty 3 cm / 1',4 in
thick, and skip to step 9.) Whe n using a gr inder, t ighten the coll ar to
prevent mashing and tearing. Don't force the meat through the
grinder; let the auger pull it through.
Coll ect the extruded stra nds of ground meat in a cyli ndrical mold cut
in half and li ned with plastic wrap. (Select a mold sli ght ly wide r than
t he diameter desired forthe patties.) Slowly pull the mold toward you
as the meat exits the grinder so that t he st ra nds run strai ght a long the
mold. Build up layers of strands to fill the mold.
@ Repeat with a second mold, and then press the two molds together to
form a complete cylinder of meat.
(]) Use the surrounding plastic wrap to re move the meat from the mold.
Tighte n t he wrap slightly to gently compress the cylinder-but ta ke
care not to overt ighten and mash the meat together, which wi ll make
the patties less tender. The meat cylinder ca n be froze n at this point,
but then it will have to be sawed into patties .
Use a sharp knife to cut hamburger discs ofthe desired thickness.
Remove the plast ic wrap from the cut patties, and refrige rate them
until cooking.
Cook, season, and garnish. See the reci pes for Mushroom Swiss Burger
on page 511 and for Sous Vide Hamburger on page 386.
Best Bets for Burgers
leanness Cook
Meat blend Ingredients (scaling) (% fat) (OC) n)
rare beef fillet mignon 100% 20 52 126
rib eye cap 45%
short rib short-rib meat 100% 30 54 129
MCteam favorite short-rib meat 100% 25 56 133
aged r ib eye 100%
ha ngar 25%
steak-house blend chuck 100% 25 54 129
sirloin 50%
flank 50%
from page 3234
When is the best time to add flavorful liquids and powdered seasonings to
ground beef? Mixing them with the cubed meat before grinding is not the
best approach because most additives bind the meat strands together.
Seasonings containing salt, for example, extract the meat protein myosin,
which forms a strong, e last ic gel when cooked. That may be des irable in
sausage making, but it produces a rubbery burger.
For the te nderest burgers, season the meat after you have cut it into
patties. Avoid adding eggs, starches such as bread crumbs, or protein-laden
liquids such as milk. During cooking, these ingredients gel and act like
edible glue.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
123
JI
III
COARSE-GROUND SAUSAGES
CD Choose a reci pe and a binding strategy, which wil l determine the
pregrinding treatment if any-see page 3228. Depending on the strategy
selected, add salt and any polyphosphates during this step. Add Activa, if
needed, during step 3.
(3) Grind meat and fat separately (see page 3228). Before grinding, freeze
the meat partiall y, and freeze the fat fully. Optionall y, prepare a fat gel
wit h fatty tissue or a rendered fat or oil , as described on page 3145.
Combine the ground meats and fats with liquid, spices, and fres h herbs,
plus other ingredients in a kitchen stand mi xer. The spices shoul d be
finely ground, and the herbs finely minced.lfusingActiva, add it now.
Best Bets for Coarse-Ground Sausages
@) Mix at low speed with a paddle mixing blade. Keep mixture below 15 ' c /
59 ' F.
@) Perform a poach test (see page 3225) to check that the sausage binds
properly. Ifbinding is insuffici ent, add polyphosphate or Activa (but not
both}-each yields a somewhat different texture. If binding is too strong,
add water (u p to a few percent) or fi ll ers such as bread crumbs.
Form, mold, or stuff, as discussed on page 3240.
o Cook in a water bath to the core temperature indicated in the table. Note
that vacuum seali ng the meat wi ll affect the cooked texture.
Sausage recipe Meat (sca ling) Fat
-
(scaling) liquid
-
(sca ling) Spice and herbs (scaling)
-
sweet Italian pork shoulde r 100% pork fatback 25% water 14% sweet paprika 1.7%
oregano, fresh 1.7%
basil, fresh 1.7%
fennel seed, cracked 1.1%
coria nder seed, finely 0.6%
crushed
hot pepper flakes (optional) 0.2%
bl ack pepper, coarse-ground 0.1%
British banger, pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 50% water 30% black pepper 0.4%
adapted from
white pepper 0.4%
Heston Blumenthal
mace 0.3%
nutmeg 0.3%
gi nger powder 0.1%
Kielbasa pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 30% water 20% marjoram 0.50%
Kminkowa pork shoulder (80%)* pork fatback 35% caraway, coarsely ground 0.35%
beef chuck (20%)* white pepper 0.20%
breakfast-style pork shoulder 100% pork fat back 35% water 16% sage 0.70%
duck breast, 100% whole duck skin 50% black pepper 0.20%
skinl ess
ground ginger 0.15%
cotechino pork shoulder 100% pork jowl fat 60% wate r 5% wild fennel seed 0.30%
rosemary 0.20%
lemon zest, finely grated 0.10%
merguez lamb shoulder 100% pork fatback 22.5% water 6% sweet paprika, smoked 0.80%
oregano 0.80%
hot pepper flakes 0.30%
black pe ppe r 0.25%
Thai chicken chicken t hi gh 100% chicken skin and fat 20% fish sauce 5% le mongrass 1.1%
inspired by
pork fatback 20% soy sauce 1% cilantro 1.0%
David Thompson
ga la nga l 0.6%
makr ud lime leaves 0.6%
dried Thai red chi li 0.2%
long pepper 0.1%
cassia 0.1%
from page 3236 *(set total weight of pork shoulder and beefchuck to 100%)
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Other ingredients
sugar
white bread, toasted
grain mustard
Tate & Lyle Golden Syrup
garlic, finely minced
Insta Cure No.1
sugar
maple syrup, smoked
sweet onion, finely chopped
whole green lentils, cooked
Parmesan, grated
roasted red pepper, minced
garlic, minced
sugar
shallot, finely minced
fresh coconut, finely grated
garlic, finely minced
Salt
(scaling) (scaling)
2% 3.2%
10% 3%
4%
2%
0.50% 3%
0.25%
0.45%
3% 2.6%
2%
40.0% 3.8%
4.5%
8.00% 2%
1.40%
0.25%
3.0% 2.3%
3.0%
1.0%
Binder Cook
(scaling) (oe) (OF) Note
Activa 0.25% 58 136
polyphosphate blend 0.10%
Activa 0.175% 58 136 Toast bread at 170 e / 340 OF until dry and
polyphosphate 0.070%
golden brown, about30 min.
blend
Activa 0.175% 55 131 Grind using a 2 mm / X6 in plate. Dry sausages
polyphosphate 0.070%
for 2 d at 2-6 e / 35-42 of and 85% relative
blend
humidity. Smoke for1-2 d atlO e / 50 of and
85% relative humidity .
Activa 0.25% 59 5
polyphosphate blend 0.10%
Activa 0.25% 57 135
polyphosphate 0.10%
blend
Activa 0.25% 55 131
polyphosphate blend 0.10%
Activa 0.25% 60 140 Mix finely ground spices and herbs with
polyphosphate blend 0.10%
shallot, coconut, and garli c to make a paste.
(binder selections in bold are those we prefer)
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 125
6
Jill
FARCE ROYALE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pigeon leg meat, cold 150 g
Rendered foie gras fat 10 g
Salt 3 g
Insta Cure No.1 1.9 g
Nutrifos 088 (Astaris
brand), dissolved in
warm water
Brown pigeon stock
see page 6
160 Bloom gelatin
Pancetta, brunoise
Hazelnuts, skinned and
finely minced
Porcini, finely minced
Garlic, blanched and
brunoise
Nutrifos 088 (Astaris
brand), dissolved in
warm water
from page 5132
0.16g
200g
3.25 g
40g
35 g
35g
7g
0.16 g
Us ing polyphosphates can shorte n
presalting t ime. Alternatively, skip
this step altogether by adding
0.25% Activa TI. For detai ls, see
page 3250.
126
Yields300 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine, puree until smooth, and reserve.
6.7%
2%
1.3%
0.12%
133%
2%
27%
23%
23%
4.7%
0.12%
CD Reduce stock to 25 g to make glaze.
Bloom gelatin, and dissolve in glaze.
@ Add meat puree, and cool over ice-water bath.
Fold into meat mixture until complete ly incorporated.
Place mixture between two sili cone baki ng mats.
o Ro ll out with heavy rolling pin; use two dowels 5 mm / y., in each in diameter, for calibrat ion,
placing one on each side of stacked sheets.
Refrigerate farce royal e until set.
TOULOUSAIN GARLIC SAUSAGE Yields 750 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Lean pork 735 g 100%
Pork fatback, frozen 255 g 35%
Salt 18g 2.4%
Garlicconfit 30g 4.1%
see page 176
Nutmeg, finely ground
19 0.14%
Natural casings, as needed
2.5 cm / 1 in diameteF
from page 582
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
PROCEDURE
CD Combin e salt with lean pork, and refrigerate for 12 h.
CD Grind meat and fatback through 5 mm / 'X. in grinding
plate.
Combine ground meat and fat, and spices in stand
mixer.
@ Prepare, stuff, and link casings 10 cm / 4 in long.
Hangsaus ages in refrigerator for 12 h.
Cut into two long links, and vacuum seal without
crushing.
o Cook garli c sausages so us vide in 59 c / 138 OF bath to
core temperature of 58 C/ 136 OF, about35 min. Hold
at temperat ure for 30 min to pasteurize.
Cut sausages into sl ices 1 cm / Y2 in thick.
Sear on 220 c / 425 OF griddl e until all sides are golden.
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GREEN GARLIC AND PORK SAUSAGE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT
Pork shoulder, boneless
Fatback
Salt
Nutrifos OBB, dissolved
in small amount of warm
water
Green garlic, blanched
and finely minced
from page 5B6
QUANTITY
250g
BOg
4.5g
0.66 g
Bg
SCALING
100%
32%
1.8%
0.26%
(0.2%)"
3.2%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut into cubes.
(3) Toss with meat and fat cubes, and refri gerate for 4 h.
Grind all cubes through 5 mm / y., in grinding plate.
o Mix thoroughl y with ground pork mixture.
Form into sausages 3.75 cm / lV2 in. in diameter and 10 cm / 4 in long by usi ng plastic wrap to
mold meat mixture.
@) Refrigerate links for12 h to mature.
o Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 61 C/ 142 OF bath to core temperature of 60 c / 140 of,
about45 min.
Cool in ice-water bath, and slice sausage on diagonal into sli ces 1 cm / % in thick.
"(% of total weight of pork shoulder and fatback)
MEAT AND SEAfOOD
127
t
EMULSION-STYLE SAUSAGES
CD Choose a recipe from the table of Best Bets below.
o Grind meat and fat separately, as described on page 3228. Use a
pretreatment for the meat, which will affect binding ingredients.
Puree ground meat in a food processor or bowl chopper. Keep the
temperature below15 C/ 59 OF. Add liquids chill ed orfrozen to keep
meat cool. Optionally, sprinkle the meat with liquid nitrogen to chill it.
o Add the fat, and continue to puree. Keep the mixture cold.
Best Bets for Emulsion-Style Sausages
Sausage variety Meat (scaling) Fat
~
blood sausage n/a pork fatback,
small dice and
blanched
foie gras fat,
rendered
bratwurst pork lOO% pork fatback
shoulder
veal shoulder 33%
boudin blanc, chicken thigh 100% rendered chi cken
chicken fat
pistachio oil
boudin blanc, veal veal shoulde r 100% veal jowl fat
orblend (or chicken/ veal mix) pistachio oil
frankfurter, beef chuck 100% beef fat
all beef
frankfurter beef chuck (65%)"
pork leg (35%)"
ham and cheese pork lOO% Gruyere cheese,
shoulder grated
mortadella pork 100% pork fatback,
shoulder blanched (see
note)
shellfish scallop, lOO% n/ a
shrimp, or
lobste r
'ghtofbeej
o Chop orfold in the spices and fresh herbs, plus other ingredi ents. The
spices should be finely ground, and the herbs finely minced.
Do a poach test (see page 3225). Adjust the binder as needed.
([) Stuff or mold the sausage.
Smoke the sausage (optional). For best results, the wet-bulb temperature
should not exceed 56 c / 132 OF during smoking.
(scaling) liquid (scaling) Spices and herbs (scaling)
42% pork blood lOO% bay leaf, powdered 0.3%
whole milk 20%
Calvados 8%
16% (or applejack)
52% whole milk 9% white pepper 0.5%
heavy cream 9% ginger powder 0.3%
nutmeg 0.3%
33.0% infused milk lO7% quatre e pices 0.2%
(see page 131) (see page 48)
8.5% a lcohol 3.7%
33.0%
reduction
8.5%
(see note)
55% water 40% liquid smoke (optional) 1.50%
mustard powder 1.25%
onion powder 1.00%
sweet paprika 1.00%
white pepper 0.25%
coriander seed 0.20%
nutmeg 0.10%
35% water 35% n/ a
lOO% water 60% white peppe r 0.35%
white wine 7% coriander seed 0.30%
(dry)
garlic powder 0.25%
nutmeg O.lO%
cinnamon O.lO%
heavy cream 55% chervil 1.0%
alcohol 15% chive 1.0%
reduction
tarragon 1.0%
(see note)
white pe pper 0.1%
star anise 0.1%
p !g
128 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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Cook sous vide or steam at temperature indicated. To pasteurize, hold at
cooking temperature for time indicated on page 1184. Plunge into cold
water or use a cold-water shower.
@ Peel sausages if they are in removable casings.
Salt Cook
Other ingredients (scaling) (scaling) Binder (scaling) (oC) (OF) Note
onions, minced 100% 5.4% Activa RM 0.6% 82 180 Combine flour, puree, milk, and half ofthe foie
chesnut puree 20% gras fat. Bring to boi l. Chill. Emulsify blood into
(store-bought) mixture, and reserve. Sweat apples and oni ons in
fine breadcrumbs 13%
remaining foie gras fat until very tender. Deglaze
apple, small dice
with Calvados. Chi ll. Combine apples and onions
10%
chestnut flour 5%
with fatback, breadcrumbs, Activa, and
seasonings. Fold in blood, and mold . Before
cooking, blanch in bOilingwaterfor1 min.
whole egg 8.5% 5% n/ a 55 130
soy protein concentrate 7.0%
egg white 16.2% 4.4% n/ a 61 142 For alcohol reduction, combine 14.7% cognac,
egg yolk 4.4%
11 % Madeira, and 3.7% white port, and reduce
Sicilian pistachios 11.0%
to one-eighth of starting volume.
black truffles, optional 7.0%
glycerin monostearate 2.00% 4.5% Activa or 0.22% 60 140 For hot-smoked version, air-dry for 30 min after
skim milk powder 1.85% polyphosphate 0.09%
stuffing. Smoke for 90 min at 70 cl 158 OF and
Insta Cure No.1 0.15%
bl end (not
85% relative humidity. Poach at 70 C 1 158 OF to
dextrose 0.20%
both) core temperature of 68 C 1 154 OF. Plunge in cold
water for 2 min. Refrigerate until cold, and peel.
sodium citrate 0.2% 4% n/ a 55 130 Add sodium citrate to boiling water, and blend in
pullman loaf, frozen as
cheese until smooth. Cool. Blend with meat. Sl ice
(see note) needed
frozen bread very thinly. Wrap cooked, uncased
sausage in bread slice, and fry in butter until crisp .
Sicilian pistachios, peeled 18% 4.6% Activa 0.25% 55 130 Reserve 25% of pork fatback, and cut into 1 cm 1
Micro crystalline cellulose 7%
1/2 in cubes. Blanch in boiling water for 10 s, and
(Avicel CG 200, FMC
the n cool. Fold into the sausage mix along with the
BioPolymer brand)
pistachios before stuffing.
Insta Cure No.1 0.55%
whole egg 11 .0% 2.5% n/ a 65 149 For alcohol reduction, reduce two parts dry sherry
sodium caseinate 0.4%
and one part cognac by half, and cool completely.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 129
,....-
The sausages can be cold-smoked
at 10 C / 50 OF for 24 h or hot-
smoked at52 C/ 125 Ffor12 h. See
page 120 for detai ls on smoking.
110
, +, ~
ITALIAN SAUSAGE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pork shoulder, cubed and 1 kg
chilled to -1 C / 30 OF
Pork fatback, cubed 300 g
and frozen
Ice water 140 g
Salt 20g
Sugar 20g
Basil 17g
Hungarian paprika 17g
Oregano 17g
Fennel seeds, toasted ll g
Coriander seeds, toasted 6g
Hot pepper flakes 2g
Black peppercorns 19
Hog casings, 32- 35 mm / as needed
11,4-1% in. in diameter
from page 3242
FRANKFURTER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beef chuck, cubed and 1 kg
chi ll ed to -1 C / 30 OF
Beeffat, cubed a nd frozen 550 g
Ice, crushed 400 g
Salt 33g
Skim milk powder 18.5 g
Mustard powder 12.5 g
Onion powder 10 g
Sweet paprika 109
Nutmeg 5g
Insta Cure No.1 3.3 g
White pepper 2.5g
Glycerin monostearate 2.2g
(4mular brand)
Coriander seeds, toasted 2 g
Dextrose 2g
Sheep casing, 2 cm / as needed
3;" in. in diameter
from page 3242
Yields 1.8 kg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Chill coarse grinder die and extruder bowl.
(3) Grind pork shoulder and fatback separately through
30% chilled die into chilled bowl. Keep forcemeat chill ed.
14%
2%
2%
1.7%
1.7%
1.7%
1.1%
0.6%
0.2%
0.1 %
0) Fold ground meat and fat together, and reserve.
@) Finely mince fresh basil and oregano.
Grind fennel seeds and toasted coriander seeds to
fin e powder.
Coarsely grind peppercorns.
o Combine seasonings, and fold into forcemeat.
Stuff seasoned forcemeat into casing.
@) Twist links to desired lengths.
@ Refrigerate sausages for at least 1 h.
@ Poach or steam sausages at 61 C / 142 OF until core
temperature reaches 60 c / 140 OF, about 25 min.
Yields 2.2 kg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
55%
40%
3.3%
1.85%
1.25%
1%
1%
0.5%
0.33%
0.25%
0.22%
0.2%
0.2%
CD Chi ll fine die and extruder bowl.
o Grind beef chuck and fat separately.
0) Puree ground meat and ice until smooth.
@) Add fat, and continue to puree until smooth.
Reserve ground meat mixture chill ed.
Grind nutmeg, white pepper, and toasted coriander
seeds to fine powder.
o Fold spices and additives into cold ground-meat
mi xture.
Stuffforcemeat paste into casing.
@) Twist lin ks to desired lengths.
@ Refrigerate sausages for at least 1 h.
@ Poach or steam lin ks at 61 C/ 142 OF to core
temperature of60 C / 140 OF, about25 min.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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BOUDIN BLANC
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
1% milk 750g
Button mushrooms, 75g
thinly sliced
Clarified unsalted butter 50g
Sweet onions, 50g
thinly sliced
Dried morels, ground 5g
to powder
Bay leaf 0.75g
Thyme 0.5g
Cognac 100g
Madeira wine 75g
White port 25g
Infused milk, from above 725g
Chicken thighs, 680g
finely ground
Egg whites, blended 110 g
Egg yolks, blended 30g
Salt 30g
Quatre epices 1.5g
see page48
Rendered chicken fat 227g
Pistachio oil 58g
Green Sicilian pistachios, 75g
quartered
Black truffles, optional 50g
finely minced
Natural casings, as needed
4 cm / lV2 in. in diameter
Fryingoil as needed
from page 3243
SCALING
103%
10%
7%
7%
0.7%
0.1 %
0.07%
14%
10.5%
3.5%
100%
94%
15%
4%
4%
0.2%
31.5%
8%
10.5%
7%
PROCEDURE
@ Vacuum seal together ..
o Cook sous vide in 85 ' c / 185 ' F bath for 1 h.
Strain.
o Measure 725 g of infused milk, and reserve
refrigerated.
Combine, and reduce to 25 g.
Cool completely, and reserve.
Yields2 kg
(2) Puree until smooth, while keeping temperature below
7 ' C / 45 ' F.
Refrigerate for 10 min.
Blend into chill ed chicken puree until fully emul sified.
@ Optionall y, for aerated texture, transfer mi xt ure to
1 I whipping siphon and charge with two cartridges of
nitrous oxide. Omit added pistachios and truffles
pieces in step 11 .
@ For regular boudins, fold into mixture to make
forcemeat.
@ For aerated texture, shake siphon vigorously, and
dispe nse forcemeat directly into casings.
@ For regular boudins, stuff casings with forcemeat.
@ Poach or steam sausages (boudinsl at 61 ' c / 142 ' F to
core tempe rature of60 ' C / 140 ' F, about 35 min.
@ Puncture membrane of sausage with needle in several
places to prevent explosion.
@ Sear boudins in oi l until evenly golden and slight ly
puffed.
MEAT AND SEAfOOD
If not using a siphon, whip the egg
whites separately. Fold the emulsi -
fied mixture into the whipped egg
'whites, and stuff.
FERMENTED SAUSAGE
CD Select a sausage recipe and a fermentation a pproach. The table Best Bets
for Fe rmented Sausages below lists several good options, and the
Fermentation Methods table at right suggests cultures and parameters fo r
slow, medium, and fast methods.
Se lect a culture and a curing salt. We recommend Bactoferm F-lC culture,
which works for all three approaches; for slow-fe rmented sausages,
Bactoferm T-SPX produces a more trad itional fl avor. Follow
manufacturer's instructions fo r rehydrat ing the culture before use.
Use the curing salt indi cated in the table on the next page.
o Grind trimmed meat and fat separately. For details, see page 3228.
Recommended grind ing plate dimensions are given in t he table below.
@) Combine all ingredie nts. To avoid degrading the activit y of the culture,
mi x the curing salt, carbohydrates, a nd seasoni ngs into the meat
thoroughl y before adding the culture. Add the salt and fat last. Quantities
in the recipes below are given relative to the principal meat used. For
example, when making chori zo add 3 g salt, 0.3 g curing salt, 0.02 g
culture, and 25 g fatback to every 100 g of pork shoul der. Use a stand
mixer with a paddl e mi xing blade; run the mixer at low speed.
Stuff. Stuff t he sausage mixture into casi ngs of the dimensions indicated in
the table.
@) Ferment by holding at the temperature, relative humidity (%RH), and time
indi cated in the tabl e above.
o Smoke, dry, or both (opti onal). Dry at the temperature and humidity
shown in the table above until sausage has lost at least25% of its original
wet weight for semidri ed, or about 50% fo r dri ed sausage; approximate
times are li sted in the table above. To encourage a coati ng of mold to
grow on the outside of the casing, dip the sausages into a solution of
Christian Hansen M-EK-4 mold cul ture before drying. For more
informat ion about smoking meat, see page 3208.
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pepperoni
chorizo
lap cheong
from page 3246
132
pork shoulder 100%
beef chuck 42.5%
pork shoulde r 100%
pork should er 100%
pork fatback 40% 5 0/,6
pork fatback 25% 8 ~ 6
pork fatba ck 20% 10 %
VOLU ME 6 . KITCHEN MANU AL
5.1% 0.4% 0.02%
3.0% 0.3% 0.02%
3. 0% 0.3% 0.02%
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Fermentation Methods
Ferment
Method Curing salt
(oe) (OF) (d) (%RH)
Slow, dried Insta Cure No.2 18 64 10 85
Medium, Insta Cure No.1 24 75 3 85
semidried
Fast, fresh Insta Cure No. 1 37 100 1 100
VARIATION: Fermenting So US Vide
Follow steps 1 to 5 on the previous page.
CD Vacuum seal sausages together in a single row. Be careful not to squish
the sausages when sealing them in the bag.
o Fermentsous vide in a water bath, combi oven, or water-vapor oven at
the desired temperature- usually 37 e / 100 F-for1 d.
Pasteurize at 55 e / 130 OF for 2-3 h (optional) .
(scaling)
Carbohydrate (slow/ medium/ fast) Seasonings
Dry
(Oe) (oF) (%RH) (d)
Fast fermentation lowers the pH of the
sausage more quickly and further by using
fast-acting cultures that work at higher
temperatures, but require higher sugar
content. And provided the food is refriger-
ated, you can skip the lengthy drying step.
12 54 70 25- 40
15 59 70 10-25
n/ a n/ a n/ a n/ a
o Cool. The sausages must be refrigerated.
Vacuum dry, or dry conventionall y at the temperature, humidity, and
time indi cated in the table above (optional, see page 2433). Drying can
simul ate the texture of a sausage made with the traditional, slow-dried
approach.
Casing
(mm) (in)
dextrose 0.35%/0.7%/1.1% black pepper, coarsely ground 0.15% 75 3
ga rli c, finely minced 0.10%
dextrose 0.25%/0.5%/0.75% hazelnuts, peeled, roaste d, a nd 9.0% 75 3
coarsely chopped (optional)
black pepper, coarsely ground 0.7%
garli c, fin e ly minced 0 .1%
dextrose 0.35%/ 0.7%/1.1% red chili powder 1.25% 60 2%
hot paprika 1.10%
a ll spice 0.75%
cayenne (optional) 0.50%
black pepper 0.50%
dextrose 0.25%/ 0.5%/0.75% hot pimenton de la Vera 0.7% 33 1X6
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cayenne pepper
0.7%
0.2%
garli c, fine ly minced 0.2%
dextrose 0 .25%/0.5%/0.75% soy sauce 3.00% 20 %
~ L ____________________________________ __ __ __________________ ~ ________________ __
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-
shaoxing wine 1.00%
monosodium glutamate 1.00%
cassia, finely ground 0.15%
MEAT AND SEAfOOD
133
1
..
SAUCISSON SEC
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pork shoulder, cubed and 1 kg
chill ed to -1 ' c / 30 ' F
Pork fatback, cubed 250g
and frozen
Garlic 13g
Pork fatback 100 g
Hazelnuts, roasted, 90g
peeled, and chopped
Dextrose 10 9
Black pepper, coarsely 7g
ground
Insta Cure No. 2 2.5g
Bactoferm F-RM 52 11.25 g
(Christian Hansen brand)
Disti lled water 35 g
Salt 35 g
Synthetic casings, 3 cm as needed
by 61 cm / 1',4 in by24 in
from page 3247
SCALING
100%
25%
1.3%
10%
9%
1%
0.7%
0.25%
1.125%
(0.7%)-
3.5%
3.5%
Yields 1.5 kg
PROCEDURE
CD Chi ll grinder extruder bowl, coarse die, and 3 mm / Yo in fine die.
@) Grind pork shoulder and fatback separately through chill ed coarse die into chilled bowl.
Grind both separately through chil led fine die into chill ed bowl.
o Fold grou nd meat and fat together, and res erve chi ll ed.
Blanch once in boi ling water, drain, and mince. Rese rve.
Freeze, and cut into smal l dice. Reserve frozen.
o Fo ld minced garli c, nuts, dextrose, pepper, and Insta Cure into chill ed ground po rk to make
forcemeat.
Whisk bacterial culture into water at 20 ' C / 68 ' F to make slu rry.
Fold into forcemeat, and mi x thoroughly to evenly distribute slurry.
@) Fo ld in frozen fat and salt.
@ Stuff meat into casings, and then twist into 25 cm / lOi n links; ti e ends wit h butche r's twine.
@ Dip sausages into distill ed water to moisten surface, and immediate ly hang in fermentatio n
chamber or other controll ed-atmosphere chambe r.
@ Ferme nt at 22 ' C / 72 ' F and 90% re lat ive humidity for 3 days. A t hin film of bacterial growt h
may form on surface of sausage casing.
@ Hang sausages in cool room at 12 ' C/ 54 ' F to dry for 3-4 wk, until sausages have lost 25%-
40% of their original weight. The more water weight sausages lose, the denser they become.
-(% of tot 01 weight of meat and fat)
FERMENTED SHRIMP SHEETS IN SP I RED BY WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Raw shrimp, ground 200 g
Coconut milk 100 g
Shrimp paste (belacan) 15 g
Acti va TI (or Activa RM) 6 g
Salt 1.25 g
from page 5168
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
50%
7.5%
3%
0.65%
CD Puree in food processor until smooth.
@) Pass through fine sieve.
Spread on silicone mat in layer 1 mm /1\6 in th ick.
o Cover, and steam in combi ove n at55 ' C/ 131 ' F for
4 min covered.
Refri gerate for 1 h to set.
Steam at100 ' C/ 212 ' F for1 min, or cook so us vide
at same temperature and time.
o Cool and refrigerate.
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FAST CURED PEPPERONI
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Bactoferm F-LC 0.85g
Distilled water
10 9
Pork shoulder, cubed and 1 kg
chilled to -1 ' ( / 30 ' F
Beef chuck, cubed and 425 g
frozen
Pork backfat, cu bed 400 g
and frozen
Salt 51 g
Dextrose 17 g
Sugar 17g
Red chili powder 12. 5 g
Smoked paprika 11g
Lactic acid 8. 5g
Allspice, powde r 7.5 g
Black pepper, powder 5g
Caye nne 5 g
Insta Cure No.1 3.5 g
from page 3247
SCALING
0.085%
(0.05%)*
1%
100%
42.5%
40%
5.1%
1.7%
1.,!%
1.25%
1.1%
0.85%
(0.5%)'
0.75%
0.5%
0.5%
0. 35%
(0.2%)*
PROCEDURE
o Whisk bacte ri al culture into wate r at 20 ' ( / 68 ' F to make slurry. Reserve.
o Chill grinde r extruder bowl and 3 mm /Ys in fine die.
Dry-bl end seasonings except salt.
o Toss cubed meat with seasoning powde r .
Cove r, and refri gerate for 3 h.
Grind seasoned meat and fat separate ly into chill ed bowl.
(2) Sti r culture slurry into meat unt il evenl y dist ributed, a nd fold in fat and salt.
Vacuum seal mi xt ure, and hold at 38 ' ( / 100 ' F for 24 h.
Yields 1.5 kg
Optionall y, to make peppe ro ni sheets, add 0.25% Acti va RM to we ight of meat, and roll
mi xture in a sous vide bag into sheet 1 mm / X, in thi ck (see page 2208).
@) Cook sous vide in 55 ' ( / 131 ' F bath fo r 10 min.
@ To make qui ck-dri ed pepperoni sti ck, form forcemeat into 1 cm / :y. in di ameter sti cks.
@ Cook sous vide in 55 ' ( / 131 ' F bath fo r 25 min.
@ Vacuum dry for 8-24 h (see page 2-433) or air dry refrigerated for 2-3 days unti l desired
texture is achieved.
*(% of total weight of meat)
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
135
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~
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MODERNIST SAUSAGES
COARSE FAT-GEL SAUSAGE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pork fatback 70g
Sodium caseinate Sg
Water 70g
Low-acyl gellan 0.7g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand)
Pork shoulder, chill ed 280g
Salt 8.4g
Nutrifos 088 0.28g
from page 3248
SCALING
100%
7%
100%
1%
400%
12%
0.4%
Yields 420 g
PROCEDURE
CD Cut into medium-size cubes.
o Vacuum seal, and heat to 70 c / 158 OF.
Disperse gell an and sodium caseinate in water, and
blend.
@ Bring to simmer.
@) Blend in warm fat cubes until fu ll y emulsified.
@) Continue blending for 3 min until mixture forms
bright-wh ite fat gel.
o Pour into container, cover, and refrigerate for 24 h.
Cube pork, and mi x with Nutrifos and salt.
Mi x with fat gel, and grind through coarse S mm / y., in
di e.
@ Stufforshape,andcookin 63 C/ 14S OF bath to core
temperature of62 C/ 144 OF.
You can add the spice mix for any
coarse sausage to the recipe above
as a fl avoring, and simi larly use any
spice mix for emulsifi ed sausage in
the recipe below.
EMULSIFIED SAUSAGE WITH FAT GEL Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 100g
Sodium a lginate 10 g
(Manugel DMF, FMC
BioPolymer brand)
Rendered fat or oil (liquid) 100 g
Meat SOOg
Salt 12g
from page 3248
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
10%
(5%)*
100%
SOO%
12%
CD Disperse alginate in water, and blend unti l fu ll y hydrated.
o Blend in unt il emulsified.
ChilltoO C/ 32 F.
@ Grind meat in fine 3mm / Va in di e.
@) Pl ace all ingredients in food processor, and puree until emulsified.
@) Form in mold, and cook in 62 C/ 144 OF bath to core temperature of61 C/ 142 OF.
*(% oftotol weight ofwoter ondfotl
LOW-FAT CHICKEN SAUSAGE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 138g
Xanthangum O.4Sg
Guargum 0.18g
Salt 6.9g
Rendered chicken 4.Sg
fat or oil
Chicken breast 300g
from page 3248
SCALING
46%
0.15%
0.06%
2.3%
1.S%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend together until fu ll y hydrated.
o Combine meat and fat, and blend with gum mixture, from above, unti l smooth.
Form sausages, and cook in 74 C / 165 OF bath to core temperature of73 C / 163 OF.
@ Chill. Reheat to serve.
t. MANIIAI
Yields 450 g
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RARE BEEF SAUSAGE
INGREDIENT
Beefchuck
Beef sirloin
Beef short rib
ActivaRM
Salt
Insta Cure No. 1
Nutrifos 088
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
Black pepper, coarsely
ground
Flat leaf parsley, minced
QUANTITY
1 kg
500 g
300 g
4.5g
36g
3.6g
l. 8g
36g
9g
36g
Alsatian mustard, optional as needed
seepage 176
from page 3249
FRIED CHICKEN SAUSAGE
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY
Chicken thighs, skinless lkg
and boneless, cubed
Salt 26g
Nutrifos 088 2.5g
ActivaRM 2.5g
Ice, crushed 200 g
Pressure rendered 400 g
chicken fat
see page 3145
Mono- and diglycerides 28g
(Glice, Texturas brand)
Synthetic casing, 4 cm / as needed
lV> in. in diameter
Chicken skin, 2 kg
frozen and finely ground
Water 400 g
Salt as needed
from page 3249
Yields 1.8 kg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Cut meats into 12. 5 mm / Y> in cu bes, and combine.
50% (3) Freeze meat until semifirm, -l C/ 30 OF.
30%
0.45%
(0.25%)'
3.6%
(2%)'
0.36%
(0.2%)'
0.18%
(0.1%)'
3.6%
(2%)'
0.9%
3.6%
Chill grinde r di es and parts, as well as extruder bowl.
o Grind beef mi xture once through chill ed 3 mm /x. in
die.
Dryblend.
@ Fold seasoning mi xt ure into chill ed ground beef
mi xture until evenl y distributed.
(2) Roll in plast ic wrap to form cylinder4 cm / lV> in th ick,
and tie ends tight ly.
Refrigerate for 3 h.
Cook in 55 C / 131 F bath to core tempe rat ure of
54 C / 129 OF, about 35 min.
@ Sli ce to desired thickness.
@ Serve wit h mustard if desired.
This temperatures given he re will
cook the sausage beef to medium
rare.
*( % of total weight of meat)
SCALING
100%
26%
0.25%
0.25%
20%
9%
2.8%
(7%)*
200%
40%
PROCEDURE
CD Chill grinder di es and parts, as well as extrude r bowl.
(3) Combine chi cken pieces with salt an d Nut rifos 088.
Grind chicken mi xture once through chill ed fine die.
o Fold in Activa.
Yields 1.5 kg
Combine with ground chi cken in food processor, and puree until smooth and ice is melted.
@ Reserve.
(2) Heat fat to 65 C / 149 OF, and whi sk in glyceride flakes unt il fully di ssolved.
Cool fat mi xture to 40 C/ 104 OF.
Slowly drizzle fat into running food processor until fully e mulsified.
@ Stuff forcemeat into casings to make 30 cm / 12 in le ngths. Tie off e nds.
@ Poach in 60 C / 140 OF bath fo r 1 h .
@ Peel casing from cooked sausages, an d cut into fo ur 7.5 cm / 3 in portions.
@ Reserve.
@ Wet-render over medium low heat until all water has evaporated and ski n pi eces have fri ed in
their own fat, about 30 min.
@ Remove fro m heat, and bl end with imme rsio n blender until all skin is fin ely ground.
@ Drain skin, and reserve fat.
@ Dry skin between paper towels in 93 C / 200 OF oven, about 20 min.
@ Season powdered skin with 1% of its weight in salt.
@ Roll sausage portions in seasoned powder just before serving .
' (% of total weightoffat)
MEAT AN D SEAFOOD 137
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~
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES SOUS VIDE
CD Select and prep ingredi ents. Some of ourfavorit es, along with prep steps,
are li sted in the tabl es on these two pages.
Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
tables, as do references to elsewhere in the book.
@) Vacuum seal. See chapter 9 on Cooking Sous Vide, page 2192, for deta ils.
Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender
Cutto Cook
Ingredient Prep (em) (in) (OC) (OF) (min) See page
apricots peel e d, pitted halves 88 190 15
apples peeled, cored halves 88 190 40 320
bananas skin on whole 88 190 12 280
cantaloupes peeled, seeded, cube d 2.5 53 127 15
cherries whol e 88 190 7
cranberries who le 88 190 45
grapes who le 83 181 10
mangoes peeled, pitte d, cubed 2.5 75 167 10
nectarines pee le d, pitte d halves 88 190 12
peaches pee le d, pitte d halves 88 190 16
pears peeled, cored whol e 88 190 60
persimmons, soft Hachiya stemmed quarters 88 190 20
pineapples peel e d, cored, cubed 2.5 75 167 60
plums pitted halves 75 167 20
from page 3288
SO US VIDE BABY BEET SALAD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Baby beets, trimmed 250g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
but not peeled
@) Cook so us vide in 88 C / 190 of bath for1 h.
Extra virgin olive oil 75g
Water 50g
30%
20%
1.4%
Remove from bag, reserving jui ces, and rub off beet skins with cl ean kitchen towel.
@ Vacuum sea l beets and juices toget her.
Salt
Passion fruit- white soy
sauce vinaigrette
see page23
Toasted sesame oil
from page 5183
3.5 g
50 g
10 g
20%
4%
Refri gerate for at least 2 h before serving.
@ Toss beets wit h vinaigrette and oil.
(2) Season with additional salt.
SOUS VIDE GLAZED PEARL ONION
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pearl onions 50g
Water 20g
Extra virgin olive oil 5g
Black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
Neutral oi l as needed
Black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5221
HII
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Bl anch forl min.
40%
10%
@) Shock in ice-water bat h.
Peel and reserve.
@ Combine.
@) Vacuum seal wit h onions.
@ Cook sous vide in 90 c / 194 of bath for2Y, h.
(2) Drain, and season or refrigerate unt il use.
VO LUME 6 . KITCHEN MAN UAL
Yields375g
Yields 50 g
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Ingredient
asparagus, green orwhite
bamboo shoots, fresh
beets, baby
beets, large
carrots, large
carrots, young
celery roots
chard stems
corn, on cob
daikon radishes
endives, Belgian
fennel bulbs
hearts of palm
kohlrabi
leeks
mushrooms (shiitake, crimini, oyster, shimeji, enoki, lobster, porcini)
onions, cipollini
onions, pearl
onions, sweet
rutabagas
salsify
shallots
Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes)
squash, summer (zucchini, yellow)
squash, firm autumn varieties (Hokkaido, kabocha, kuri)
squash, tender autumn varieties (acorn, butternut, delicata)
turnips
Peel
yes
yes
no
optional
yes
no
yes
yes
yes
optional
root removed
no
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
optional
no
yes
yes
yes
Cutto Cook
(cm) (in) (OC) (OF)
15 6 85 185
2.5 1 80 176
whole 85 185
5 2 82 180
15 6 85 185
whole 85 185
5 2 85 185
15 6 88 190
7.5 3 60 140
5 2 85 185
whole 88 190
cut in half 85 185
whole 85 185
5 2 88 190
cut in half 85 185
whole 90 194
whole 90 194
whole 85 185
cut in half 88 190
5 2 85 185
5 2 88 190
whole 85 185
5 2 85 185
5 2 65 149
5 2 90 194
5 2 85 185
5 2 85 185
--. from page 3289
-
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SOUS VIDE TURNIP
INGREDIENT
Turnips
Unsalted butter
Water
Salt
from page 533
QUANTITY
200g
25g
25g
2g
GLAZED WHITE CARROT
INGREDIENT
Small white carrots,
peeled
Water
QUANTITY
300g
SCALING
100%
12.5%
12.5%
1%
SCALING
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut turnips into sli ces 3 mm / y. in thick.
o Cut discs from each sli ce with 2.5 cm / 1 in pastry cutter.
Vacuum seal discs in single even layer with butter, water, and salt.
@) Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 20 min.
Season with additional salt to taste.
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
o Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 45 min.
Pour cooking juices into pot, leaving carrots in bag.
@) Reduce cooking juices until syrupy, about 8 min.
(min) See page
15 5147,33
6h 5-247
1 h 5183
1 h
45 5164
40 25
1Y2 h
25
15
25
50
30
1Y2 h
1'/<1 h
50
10 144
2h 141
50 140
45
1 h 553
15 5205
1 h 25
1 h
40
15
25
35 l39
Yields200g
Yields300g
Unsalted butter
Fructose
50g
45g
6g
3g
17%
15%
2%
1%
Stir in carrots until just warmed, and season with additional salt to taste.
Salt
from page 532
PLANT FOODS 139
----------- -:
~
. ~
BRAISED TURNIPS WITH SAFFRON
Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Turnips, peeled and cut to 250 g
slices 5 mm / 'A in thick
Water
Saffron threads
Salt
from page 5123
100 g
2g
2g
GLAZED PEARL ONION
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pearl onions, blanched 100g
and peeled
Water 90g
Champagne vinegar 30g
Honey 7g
Salt 3g
Neutral oil as needed
from page 5263
POTATO SALAD
100%
40%
0.8%
0.8%
o Vacuum seal together.
o Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 35 min.
Serve, or refrigerate until use.
Yields 230 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
111 %
100%
33%
8%
3.5%
o Prepare onions as directed.
o Vacuum seal onions with other ingredients.
Cook sous vide in 85 C / 185 OF bath for1 h.
o Cool in ice-water bath.
Refrigerate until use.
To serve, drain pearl onions, cut in half through stem e nds, and pat dry.
CD Sear pearl onions in oil, cut sides only, until surfaces are golde n and onions are just warmed,
about3 min.
Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fingerling potatoes
Salt
Creme frakhe
Muscat vinegar
Walnut oil
French whol e-grain
mustard
Salt
Sugar
400g
5g
50 g
20g
15g
4g
2g
2g
Egg yolk, cooked so us vide, 80 g
at 68 C / 154 OF for 35 min,
cooled and quartered
Pickled pearl onions, petals 48 g
see page 182
Celery leaves, thinly sliced 3 g
Coriander seeds, toasted 2 g
and crushed
Scallions,
whites only
Potato skins
Potato starch
Fryingoil
Salt
from page 573
40g
(four pieces)
200 g
15 g
as needed
to taste
100%
1.25%
12.5%
5%
3.75%
1%
0.5%
0.5%
20%
l2%
0.75%
0.5%
10%
50%
3.75%
o Toss together.
o Cook sous vide in 88 C / 190 of bath for about 30 min. (Cooking time will depend on size of
potatoes.)
Cool in ice-water bath.
o Cut into halves or quarters, depending on size, and reserve.
Whisk together.
Mix ge ntly with cut potatoes.
CD Fold gently into potato salad.
Saute scallions over medium heat until tender.
Arrange on potato salad.
@ Toss potato skins with starch.
@ Fry in 180 c / 360 OF oil until golden and crisp, about 3 min.
@ Toss with salt.
@ Serve with potato salad.
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FRESH BEAN SALAD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Fava beans, shelled and 25g
peeled
English peas, shelled and 20g
peeled
Romano beans, trimmed 15g
Green beans, trimmed 14g
Yellow wax beans, 14 g
trimmed
Purslane leaves 7g
Roasted hazelnut oil 7g
Vermouth vinegar(or 5g
other semisweet
white vinegar)
Scallion, thinly sliced 4g
lime juice 3g
Black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
from page 587
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%*
8%
8%
5.7%
4.5%
3.4%
CD Vacuum seal peas and each type of bean individually.
o Cook sous vide in 88 C/ 190 OF bath for 20 min, or to desired doneness.
Cool in ice-water bath.
@) Cut beans crosswise into 2.5 em / 1 in pieces.
Combine.
@ Refrigerate until use.
o Measure ingredients individually.
Toss with cold beans and peas.
Season salad.
*(700% is the total weight of all beans used)
SWEET-AND-SOUR ClPOLLINE ONION
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cipolline onion, peeled 100g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
White wine vinegar 55g 55% 0 Cook sous vide in 90 c / 194 OF bath for1 h 50 min.
Chestnut honey 29 g 29% Remove from bag and drain.
Neutral oil 25 g 25%
Water
109
10%
Salt 1.5 g 1.5%
Neutral oil as needed @) Cut onions in half horizontall y, and sear until golden.
from page 519
CARROT AND DILL FRICASSEE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Carrots, peeled 1l0 g
Extra virgin olive oil 109
Unsalted butter
109
Ajowan seeds 2g
Dill 2g
Semisweet vinegar 2g
(honey orwhite balsamic)
Salt to taste
from page 5164
SCALING
100%
9%
9%
1.8%
1. 8%
1.8%
PROCEDURE
CD Halve carrots le ngt hwise, and core.
o Cut into half-moons 5 mm / '/4 in thick.
Vacuum seal with oil.
@) Cooksous vide in 85 C/ 185 OF bath for40 min.
Combine remaining ingredients, and warm through in small pot.
@ Stir in cooked carrots a nd season.
PLANT FOODS
Yields100 g
Yields 80 g
Yields125 g
141
!!!
SO US VIDE LENTILS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Carrots, thinly sliced 120 g
Sweet onions, thi nl y sli ced 120 g
Shallots, thinly sli ced 80g
Leeks, thinly sli ced 70 g
Celery, thinly sliced 50 g
Garlic, thinly sliced 25g
Thyme sprig 3g
Bay leaf 2g
Black peppercorns 2g
Distilled water lkg
French green le ntils, 350 g
soaked in cold water for 2 h
Salt 17g
Che rry vinaigrette 5g
see page 5270
Green hazelnuts, thinly 90g
sli ced
Black radish, small dice 15g
Chervil tops 15 g
Frisee tops 15 g
Chamomi le blossoms 5g
(fresh)
from page 5271
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SCALING
34%
34%
23%
20%
14%
7%
0.8%
0.6%
0.6%
286%
100%
4.8%
1.5%
26%
4%
4%
4%
1.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Prepare vegetables as noted.
o Place vegetables and aromatics together in sachet.
Combine, add sachet, and cook sous vide in 90 ' c / 194 'F bath for1 h 15 min.
o Discard sachet, and rest lentil s at room temperat ure for 30 min.
Cool in ice-water bath, and refrigerate unt il use.
To serve, fo ld into cooked le ntils.
(2) Garnish dressed lenti ls.
SOUS VIDE GREEN ASPARAGUS
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY
Green asparagus, 200 g
stalks peeled
(about1.5 cm / % in thick)
Water
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
from page 5149
20g
10 9
2g
SO US VIDE ARTICHOKE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 200g
Ba by artichokes, peeled, 100 g
and chokes and tough (four pieces)
leaves discarded
Yellow onion, thinly sliced 25g
Carrot, peeled and thinly 15g
sli ced
Lemon peel 5.5g
Salt 2.5g
Ascorbic acid 1 g
Thyme 1 g
Black coriander seeds 0.5g
Bl ack peppercorns 0.5g
Bay leaf 0.2g
from page 5244
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Vacu um seal all ingredi ents together.
10%
5%
1%
o Cook sous vide in 85 ' C/ 185 OF bath for 10 min.
SCALING PROCEDURE
200%
100%
25%
15%
5.5%
2.5%
1%
1%
0.5%
0.5%
0.2%
CD Vacuum seal together.
o Cook sous vide in 90 C / 194 OF bath for 45 min.
Slice artichokes and serve, or cool and refri gerate until use.
Yields 650 g
Yields 200 g
Yields 100 g
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VARIATION: Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat
=-
CD Select and prep. See the tabl e below for suggestions and prep steps.
Add fat, and vacuum seal. The fat column in the table indi cates the kind
and quantity that work best. Proportions are relative to the weight of the
vegetable. For example, add 20 g of olive oil to the sous vide bag for
everylOO g oftrimmed arti chokes.
Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
table below.
Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Until Tender
...
...
-

-
Ingredient
artichokes, baby
artichokes, mature
carrots, large
chestnuts, peeled
crosnes (Chinese artichokes)
Japanese yams
garlic
potatoes
shallots
squash, kabocha
sweet potatoes
turnips
from page 3292
CHESTNUT CONFIT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Italian chestnuts 180 g
Rendered pork fat 90g
Salt 2g
.- from page 51 8
-
-
"""
-
"""
-
SALSIFY FONDANT
INGREDIENT
Salsify, peeled and cut
into 5 cm / 2 in lengths
Extra virgin olive oil
Water
Limejuice
Salt
fro m page 518
QUANTITY
100 g
20g
15 g
1.5 g
19
Cutto
(em) (in)
whole
half
7.5 3
whole
whole
7.5 3
whole cloves
7.5 3
whole
7.5 3
7.5 3
7.5 3
SCALING
100%
50%
1%
SCALING
100%
20%
15%
1.5%
1%
Cook
Fat (scaling)"
(OC) (oF) (min)
oli ve oil 20% 85 185 1 h
oli ve oil 20% 85 185 ]1/2 h
butter 30% 83 181 45
lard 15% 90 194 12 h
clarifi ed butte r 20% 85 185 35
butter 20% 95 203 45
olive oil 40% 88 190 7 h
butte r 30% 85 185 45
ne utra l oil 15% 85 185 1 h 25 min
olive oi l 15% 90 194 1 h
clarifi e d butter 10% 90 194 40
butte r 10% 85 185 15
"(set weight of vegetable to 700%)
PROCEDURE
CD Cut X into stem side of each chestnut.
Blanch for 30 s.
Peel off receded skins and shell carefull y.
o Vacuum seal chestnuts with fat and salt.
Cook sous vide in 90 O( / 194 OF bath fo r 12 h.
Serve, or cool to room temperature and refrigerate.
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
Cook sous vide in 95 O( / 203 OF bath forl h.
Serve, or cool and refrigerate.
PLANT f OODS
See page
142
5172
143
535
184
Yi elds200 g
YieldslOOg
143
d
~
SWEET POTATO FONDANT
Yields200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White sweet potatoes
(satsuma imo), peeled
175g 100% CD Use ring cutter to cut potatoes into tubes 4 cm / 1'12 in thick and 6 cm / 2Y2 in. in diameter.
Water
Unsalted butter, melted
Salt
from page 539
125g
27.5g
4.5g
71.4%
15.7%
2.6%
(3) Vacuum seal together with potatoes.
Cook sous vide in 95 ( / 203 OF bath for45 min.
o Serve, or cool and refrigerate.
LOBSTER MUSHROOM CONFIT
INGREDIENT
Lobster mushroom
Carotene butter(or
unsalted butter)
Salt
from page 5187
QUANTITY
200g
100g
4g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Vacuum seal together.
50% (3) Cook sous vide in 80 0( / 176 OF bath for 40 min.
Serve, or refrigerate until use.
2%
VARIATION: Cooking Fruits or Vegetables So US Vide for Puree
Yields200g
CD Select and prep ingredi ents. See the table below for recommendations.
Peel, stem, or pit the produce to remove coarse or bitter components and
to simplify handling after cooking. Cut evenly.
Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
table below, along with references to recipes elsewhere in the book.
(3) Vacuum seal. See chapter 9 on Cooking Sous Vide, page 2192, for detail s.
o Puree until smooth. Use a blender orfood processor, and then pass
through a fine sieve, ricer, or food mi ll . See page 2-424 for more details.
Best Bets for Cooking Fruits or Vegetables So us Vide for Purees
Cutto Cook
Ingredient (cm) (in) (Oe) (OF) (h) See page
apples, peeled quarters, cored 88 190 2 145
bananas, peel on whole 88 190 12 min 41
blackberries whole 65 149
dates, pitted whole 80 176 2 145
garlic cloves, pee led 88 190
kohlrabi 7.5 3 88 190 lV2
mangoes 5 2 75 167 20min
mushrooms, dried whole 90 194
mushrooms, fresh whole 90 194 2
nettles leaves 95 203 10 min
onions and shallots 7.5 3 88 190 2
pears, peeled halves, cored 88 190 lV2
potatoes, peeled 7.5 3 100 212 35 min 148, 151
rhubarb 7.5 3 88 190 1
rutabagas 7.5 3 85 185 2
spinach leaves 90 194 7min
squash, winter varieties (Hokkaido, kabocha, Kuri) 7.5 3 90 194 45 min 39
tomatoes, peeled and seeded quarters, cored 85 185 25 min
turnips 7.5 3 85 185 30 min
watercress leaves 90 194 lOmin 56
from page 3290
144 VOLUM E 6 . KITCHEN MANU AL
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SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PUREE Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sugar 40g 27% CD Cook to dark caramel, about 4 min.
Apple cider 80g 52% (3) Deglaze caramel.
(store-bought)
Cool syrup to room te mperature.
Apples (firm and tart), 150 g 100% o Vacuum seal toget her with syrup.
peeled, cored, and
Cook so us vide in 90 ' C / 194 ' F bath fo r 20 h.
quarte red
Transfer from vacuum bag to small pan.
l e mon juice 2.5g 1.7%
o Reduce juice, basting apple consta ntl y, to th ick syrup, about 5 min.
Clarified brown butter 2g 1.3%
Salt 1 g 0.7%
Xanthangum 0.3 g 0. 2% Puree with appl es and syrup to smooth consistency.
Pass through fine sieve.
@ Refri gerate.
from page 520
TAMARIND PASTE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tamarind, pulp 350g 100% CD Vacuum seal togethe r.
with seeds and fibers
(3) Cook sous vide in 80 ' C / 170 ' F bath for 30 min.
Water 125g 36%
Press thro ugh fine sieve to form fine paste, and refri gerate until use.
from page 599
DATE PUREE Yields400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Dates, pitted 300 g 100% CD Vacuum seal togethe r.
Water 90 g 30% (3) Cook so us vide in 80 ' C / 176 ' F bath for 2 h.
Ginger juice 9g 3% Blend full y.
Salt 1.2g 0.4% o Press t hrough fine sieve.
Black pepper, finely 1 g 0.3%
Di scard pulp, and refrigerate puree until use.
ground
Cardamom pods 0.2g 0.1%
from page 5122
-
--
-
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PLANT FOODS 145
t
~ ~ a ~ ~ _ '.
VARIATION: Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup
CD Make the syrup. Us e equal amounts of water and sugar (sucrose or
other, less sweet sugars such as isomalt or glucose syrup), or adjust the
sweet ness to accommodate your taste and the sweetness of the fru it.
Fu ll y dissolve the sugar in the water.
Ad d syrup, and vacuum seal. The syrup column in the tabl e below
indi cates t he quantity to use relative to the weight of t he fruit. For
example, add 20 g of syrup to the sous vide bag for every 100 g of dri ed
apricot.
o Select and prep ingredients. The tabl e below offers some good options.
For easy handli ng after cooking, peel away tough skins, remove pits, and
cut evenl y.
@) Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
tabl e below, along with references to recipes elsewhere in this book.
Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup Until Tender
Syrup Cook
Ingredient Prep (scal ing)'
(OC) (OF) (h) See page
apples peele d, halved, cored 50% 90 194 3
apricots, dry whol e 20% 80 176 217
chestnuts peele d, whol e 100% 90 194 12
citrus fruits whole 100% 90 194 4
(oranges, limes, lemons, segments 30 % 88 190 40min
manda rins, kumquats)
qua rters 40 % 88 190 12
cranberries whole 10% 88 190 45 min
grapes whol e, peele d 10% 83 181 8min
grapefruits peels with pith only 200% 90 194 5 146
Buddha's hand lemons cut into fingers 100% 75 167 2
quinces peele d, ha lve d, core d 100% 95 203 8
fro m page 3291 '(set weight affruit to 100%)
PINK GRAPEFRUIT CONFIT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pink grapefruit peel 200 g
wit h pith from one
grapefruit, pulp reserved
for garnish
Water 450 g
Salt 60 g
.Fructose
Water
Isomalt
Citric acid
from page 5226
210 g
210 g
92g
4.5g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Cut grapefruit peel into eight equa l pieces.
o Blanch three times, starting from cold water each ti me.
225% Combine water and sa lt, and bring to boi l.
30% @) Add peel pieces, and simmer for 8 min.
o Drain, rinse, and cool.
105%
105%
46%
2.25%
Reserve.
o Stir toget her to make syrup.
Add blanched peel pi eces to syrup.
Cook sous vide in 90 C/ 194 OF bath for4 h.
@ Cool in ice-water bath, remove peel pieces from bag, and reserve syrup.
@ Di ce chill ed peel pi eces finely, and return to syrup.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
vnlliMF 6 KITCHEN MANUAL
Yi elds 250 g
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VARIATION: Cooking Heat-Sensitive Vegetables Sous Vide
CD Select and prep ingredients.
Best Bets for Warming Vegetables Sous Vide
(3) Vacuum seal. See chapter 9 on Cooking Sous Vide, page 2192, for details.
Warm
Cook. Recommended cooking temperat ures and times appear in the
Vegetable Prep
(OC) (OF) (mi n)
table at ri ght.
RED WINE CABBAGE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Red cabbage leaves 100g
Red wine (dry) 200 g
Red cabbage juice 180g
(from about
300gcabbage)
Pineapple juice (fresh) 65 g
(from about
100 g pineapple)
Red wine vinegar 50g
Red onion juice 40g
(from about
100 g onions)
Limejuice 1.2 g
Salt to taste
Unsalted butter 40g
Pineapple, small dice 35g
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g
and coarsely crushed
Lime zest, finely grated 0.5g
from page 5105
asparagus whole, stalks peeled
corn cobb
fava beans peeled
green whole
chickpeas
kohlrabi thinly sliced
peas peeled
spring qua rtere d
turnips
young whole, peeled
carrots
zucchini thinly s liced
from page 3292
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Vacuum sea l.
200%
(3) Bl anch sous vide in 90 C / 194 of bath for 4 min.
Cool in ice-water bath, and remove from bag immediately.
o Trim off and di scard larger ribs; juli enne leaves fin ely.
Reserve.
Combine, and reduce to 200 g.
70 158
60 140
70 158
75 167
75 167
75 167
70 158
70 158
75 167
75 167
180% (2) Add julienned cabbage leaves, and finish cooking through, about 1 min.
65%
50%
40%
1.2% Season cabbage mi xture.
40% Warm cabbage and fold in remaining ingredi ents.
35%
2%
0.5%
PLANT FOOD S
5
15
15
25
20
20
18
15
45
20
See page
256
256
Yields 375 g
147
....
Best Bets for Potato Purees
Recipe Potato solid liquid Fat Other ingredients See page
Robuchon Ratte or 100% whole milk 25% unsalted butter 50% salt 2.0%
pommes puree fingerling creme fraiche 6%
Blumenthal puree Charlotte 100% whole milk 20% unsalted butter 30% salt 2.0%
fluffy mash Russet 100% whol e mi lk 15% unsalted butter 15% salt 1.5%
potato foam Yukon Gold 100% vegetable 60% oli ve oi l 14% salt 1.5% 324
broth or milk
heavy cream 50%
pommes aligot Bell e de 100% creme fraiche 25% Cantalor 80% salt 1.5%
Fontenayor Gruyere cheese,
Yukon Gold grat ed
unsalted butter 10%
roasted potato Yukon Gold 100% Yukon Gold 65% unsalted butter 73% salt 2.5% 55
puree
dri ed potato 10%
potato jui ce
Ultra-Sperse 3 1.0%
flakes
-- - -- ---- - -------_.
from page 3-297
POTATO PUREE Yi elds 700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
Potato juice, from above
Clarified unsalted butter
Instant potato flakes
Unsalted butter, melted
Yukon Gold potatoes
Potato juice-butter mixture,
from above
375g
150g
37.5g
37.5g
200g
325 g
425g
Sieved potatoes, from above 280 g
Ultra-Sperse A (National Starch brand) 3.5 g
Grain mustard, optional
Salt
from page 58
148
30g
to taste
250% CD Jui ce potatoes in vegetable jui cer.
(3) Centrifuge jui ce at 27,5009 for 1 h.
Decant jui ce through fine sieve.
@) Vacuum seal.
100%
25%
25%
133%
216%
283%
186%
2.3%
20%
Cook sous vide in 90 C / 194 OF bat h for 20 min.
o Pass through fine sieve, and reserve 150 g.
o Warm butte r over low heat.
Add potato flakes and toast, stirring consta ntl y, unt il golden brown, about7 min.
Add potato jui ce, bring to boil, and remove from heat.
@ Fold butter in gently unt il me lted.
@ Reserve 425 g.
@ Bake in 200 C / 400 OF oven for 1 h.
@ Cut potatoes in half, and scoop out hot flesh.
@ Pass through fine-mesh drum sieve.
@ Reserve 280 g of sieved potatoes.
@ Whisk Ultra-Sperse into potato juice- butter mixture over low heat until warm.
@) Whisk in sieved, baked potatoes slowly.
@ Season and stir in mustard, if desired.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHE N MANUAL
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COOKING PLANT FOODS UNDER PRESSURE
Best Bets for Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods
Ingredient
Quince, pears
Caramelized coconut milk, onion soup
Chickpeas, white beans, other legumes
Steel-cut oatmeal, pearl barley, other grains
Advantage
develops flavors and colors
browns
accelerates softening
See page
280
214
5138
B04
Whole citrus fruits, fresh coconut, nuts, other tough plant foods softens
Seeds, including mustard, sesame, sunflower
from page 3300
BAKED BEANS
INGREDIENT
Dry navy beans
Brown pork stock
see page 6
Sweet onions, fine ly minced
Grade B maple syrup
Pomegranate molasses (store-bought)
Tomato confit
see page 179
Bourbon (Wild Turkey brand)
Worcestershire sauce
Dijon mustard
Smoked Hungarian pepper, hydrated, and sieved
Smoked ham hock meat, finely minced
Salt
Sherry vinegar
from page 577
PRESSURE-COOKED TARBAIS BEANS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 40g 27%
Bacon, thinly sliced 30g 20%
Rendered duck fat
109
7%
Garlic, thinly sliced 5.5 g 3.7%
Thyme 0.5g 0.3%
Black pepper, cracked 0.2g 0.13%
Brown pork stock 400g 267%
seepage 6
Dry tarbais beans (or navy beans) 150g 100%
Calcium chloride 1 g 0.67%
Salt to taste
from page 583
QUANTITY
200g
300g
65 g
40g
30g
30 g
20g
18g
15 g
8g
60g
to taste
to taste
PROCEDURE
151
Yields 700g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Soak in water, refrigerated, for 8 h.
Rinse beans.
150%
32.5%
20%
15%
15%
10%
9%
7.5%
4%
30%
Place in fres h water, and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 25 min.
o Cool in cooking water.
Combine to make sauce.
Bringto boil.
o Skim, a nd reduce to 250 g, or150 gforthickersauce.
Vacuum seal sauce with cooled beans .
Cook sous vide in 80 ' c / 176 ' F bath for1 h.
@ Add to cooked beans.
@ Season.
Yields200g
CD Sweat together in pressure cooker until onions are translucent ..
Deglaze pressure cooker.
Add to pressure cooker.
o Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 45 min.
Season.
PLANT FOODS 149
...
CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP Yieldsl kg
INGREDIENT
Young carrots, peeled
and cored
Unsalted butter
Salt
Bakingsoda
Carrot juice, brought to
boi l and centrifuged
see page 2360
Water
Carotene butter (or
unsalted butter)
opt ional, see page 40
QUANTITY
500g
80g
7.5g
2.5g
635 g
(from 1.4 kg of
carrots)
as needed
60g
Young ginger, finely diced 4 g
Tarragon, finely minced 2.5 g
Ajowain seed, li ghtly 0.5 g
crushed
licorice powder, optional 0.5 g
from page 3301
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Cut into 1.5 cm /5fa in pieces.
16% (3) Melt butter in pressure cooker.
1.5% Add carrot slices, salt, and baking soda.
0.5% 0 Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 50 min to carameli ze.
Pour cold water over cooker to depressuri ze qu ickly.
127%
12%
1.25%
0.5%
0.1%
0.1%
@) Blend mixture to smooth puree, and press through fine sieve.
o Blend with puree, and bring to simmer.
Bl e nd into soup to achieve desired viscosity.
Blend into soup.
@ Remove from heat, and season with more salt, if desired.
@ Garnish.
AUTOCLAVED ONION SOUP
Yields700g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sweet onions 1 kg
Onion juice, from above 200g
Red port (dry) 40g
Unsalted butter, cubed 35g
Sugar 12g
Bakingsoda 1.5g
Black peppercorns 19
(whole)
Thyme 0.5g
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
Clarified unsalted butter, 28 g
melted (or rendered veal
marrow fat)
Cheese foam 80g
optional, see page 317
from page 3302
150
SCALING PROCEDURE
500% CD Juice 500 g of onions, and reserve 200 g of resulting
100%
20%
17.5%
6%
0.75%
0.5%
0.25%
14%
8%
juice.
(3) Sli ce remaining 500 g of onions thinly.
Pack sli ced onions into two 475 ml / 1 pt canningjars,
and reserve.
0 Combine.
Pour mixture over packed onions, and seal jars. Do
not overtighten, or jars may explode.
@) Cook in 130 C / 265 OF autoclave for 20 min.
Alternatively, pressure-cook in canner or pressure
cooker at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 40 min.
o Season soup.
Portion evenly among four bowls.
Spoon thin layer of melted butter over each portion to
prevent any cloudiness caused by cheese foam.
@ Siphon onto soup.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
The combination of pressure-
cooking and baking soda can also
be applied to make a baked-potato
consomme. Roast100 g of russet
potato skins until golden, combine
with 400 g russet potato juice and
1.6 g of baking soda, and then
pressure-cook as described in
step 6.
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CRISPY BOILED PEANUTS
INGREDIENT
Water
Raw peanuts, shelled
Water
Dried laver(seaweed)
Sugar
Salt
Monosodium glutamate
(MSG), optional
Demerara sugar
Chili powder
Salt
from page 3303
QUANTITY
200g
100g
100g
20g
20g
2g
19
2g
1 g
0.5g
SCALING PROCEDURE
200% CD Combine, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 25 min.
100% (3) Transfer boiled peanuts to dehydrator tray.
Dehydrate at 60 ' C / 140 ' F for12 h.
100%
20%
20%
2%
1%
2.6%
1%
0.5%
o Deep-fry in 190 ' C/ 375 ' F oil for1 min.
Drain on paper towels, cool, and reserve.
@ Combine; let seaweed soak for 30 min at room temperature.
(2) Strain to remove excess liquid from seaweed.
Dehydrate seaweed at 60 ' C/ 140 ' F for12 h.
Deep-fry in 190 ' C / 375 ' F oil for about1 min.
@ Drain on paper towels, cool, and measure 25 g.
@ Grind together.
@ Tosswith cooled peanuts and reserved seaweed.
Yields 120 g
PRESSURE-COOKED SESAME SEEDS
Yields125 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 250g
50g
500% CD Boil seeds in water for 2 min to remove bitterness.
Raw sesame seeds 100% (3) Place blanched seeds and water in press ure cooker.
The same procedure used to
pressure-cook the sesame seeds
can also be appl ied to cook
mustard seeds. Simply replace
the toasted sesame oil with
good-quality olive oil or mustard-
seed oil.
Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for
lV2 h.
o Remove mi xt ure from cooker, and cool at room
temperature.
Strain seeds, and reserve.
40g BO% @ Combin e. Toasted sesame oil
Salt to taste (2) Toss oi l with cooled seeds, and season.
from page 3303
POTATO PUREE
INSPIRED BY JOEL ROBUCHON,
Yields1 kg
JEFFREY STEINGARTEN, AND HESTON BLUMENTHAL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and skins reserved
Water
Sugar
Unsalted butter, cubed
Whole milk
Creme frakhe
Salt
from page 3296
500g
2 kg
20g
250g
125g
30g
to taste
CD Peel and cut potatoes evenly, saving peels, and then rinse the potatoes.
100%
400%
4%
50%
25%
6%
(3) Vacuum seal potatoes with peelings and water (and sugar, if any), and then
cook sous vide in a 70 ' ( / 158 ' F bath for 35 min. See the table on page 148
for recommended liquids and quantities, which are expressed as a
percentage of the weight of the potatoes after cooking. You can substitute
the liquid from the bag for liquids in the recipe.
Remove potatoes from bag, drain, and cool completely.
o Optionally, saute instant potato flakes in butter until golden. Puree them
using a mortar and pestle, and reserve for use as a flavor enhancer.
Boil potatoes until tender. Cooking times vary with the variety of potatoes
and thickness of cut, but15-25 min is typical.
@ Drain, and then press potatoes through ricer or food mill directly over
cubed butter. Then fold the potatoes with the butter.
Flavors can be infused into the liquids prior to
using them; for instructions, see page 2310. You
ca n also use meat or vegetable stocks as liquids.
If using fat-free liquids, supplement with a fat
such as butterfat (one of our favorites), rendered
chicken fat, or olive oil.
(2) Pass potatoes through a sieve for a smoother texture. Robuchon's silky
potatoes recipe, for example, calls for three passes through the sieve. We
find that one pass through a very fine sieve is enough. At this point, the
puree can be refrigerated for later use.
Warm the liquid (including skin infusion, if pre pared), and whisk into the
potato mixture to the desired consistency. Add pureed potato flakes if
made in step 4.
Season with salt, and gently fold in Ultra-Sperse 3 or any other starch
call ed for in the recipe.
@ Optionally, add cheese, and stir until fully melted and incorporated.
@ Serve warm.
PLANT FOODS 151
.... --
RISOTTOS
PARBOILING RISOTTO
VARIATION: PRESSURE-COOKING RISOTTO
o Freeze a sheet tray.
o Freeze a sheet tray, and bring a pan of water to a boil.
Parboi l the grains. See the table below for recommended times.
Drain with a fine sieve.
Combine grains with t wice their weight in water in press ure cooker.
Parcook for time recomme nded in the table below.
o Spread the grains evenl y in a thin layer on the chilled tray to cool.
Follow steps 3-7 at left.
@) Cover tightl y wit h plastic wrap or vacuum seal. Refrigerate until needed,
but for no more than one week.
VARIATION: COOKING RISOTTO SOUS VIDE
o Preheat the water bath to 90 C / 194 of.
@) Finish cooking for the time recommended in the table. Follow steps 8-10
on page 153.
Vacuum seal t he grains with twice their weight in liquid.
Parcook. See the cook so us vi de column in the table below for
recommended times.
o Season. If using a non-starchy grain you may need to thi cke n
(see page 156).
o Chill in an ice-water bath. Refrigerate in the bag until needed.
@) Foll ow steps 6 and 7 at left.
Best Bets for Risotto
Parcooking time
(choose one method) Finish on stove top
Pressure- Cook For For pressure- For
Yield after
Boil cook sous vide boiled cooked sous vide
(min) (mi n) (min)
-
(min) (min) (min) Sauce or finish See page
amaranth, rinsed well 190% 13 4 17 ]1/2 2 2 thicken 156
bomba rice 240% 8 4 nl a 41/2 3 nl a mantecato
brown rice 225% 12 6 30 6 5 4 mantecato 153
forbidden rice 150% 17 7 23 3 3 3 integral sauce
pearl barley 185% 18 12 25 4 4 5 thi cken 156
pine nuts 110% 9 7 25 1 1/2 2 thi cken 155
quinoa 235% 7 2 10 2 3 2 mantecato 156
risotto rices 200% 6 3 nl a 3 3 nl a mantecato 153
(Arborio, carnarol;)
short-grain Japanese rice 210% 4 21/2 nl a 3 2 nla thicken
spelt, soaked overnight 150% 15 12 25 3 4 3 integral sauce 156
steel-cut oats, rinsed 185% 7 5 9 21/2 2 2 thi cken 154
wild rice 150% 30 25 45 21/2 2 4 mantecato
from page 3305
(final cooked weight of each grain-for example, every 700 g of dry bomba rice yields 240 g when cooked)
STEAMED STICKY RICE Yields 150g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White chicken stock or 60g
water
see page 6
Coconut milk 40 g
Clarified unsalted butter, 12 g
warmed
Salt 2g
Water 480g
Sticky rice 60g
from page 5119
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Hand-bl end togethe r.
Reserve refri ge rated.
67%
20%
3.5%
800%
100%
Combine.
o Refrigerate fo r12 h to soak ri ce.
@) Drai n rice. Spread on cheesecloth-lined perforated tray.
@) Steam ri ce for 30 min. Allow to rest, uncovered, for 5 min.
o Warm rese rved stock a nd coconut milk mi xture, and fo ld into cooked rice.
VO LU ME 6 . KITCH EN MANUA L
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RISOTTO MILANESE I NSPIRED BY GUALT I ERO MARCHES I
@ Freeze a sheet tray to use for cooling the rice.
o Bring stock to boil.
Saute onions and shallots. When translucent, add rice, and continue
sauteing until also transluce nt, about S min.
@) Deglaze pan with wine.
Ladle 100 g of stock into pan, and parcook over high heat. Add
two more 100 g ladlefu ls of stock, allowing each amount to be fully
absorbed before adding another. Parcook for exactly 6 min.
Drain with a fine sieve, reserving any liquid.
o Spread the risotto in a th in layer on the chill ed tray, and cover tray tight ly
with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until needed. Up to this point, you can
substitute other parcooking techniques such as sous vide or pressure
cooking (see previous pagel.
To finish cooking, put cooled, parcooked ri sotto in pan, and add
remaining stock. Cook for another 3 min for al dente or until desired
texture is achieved.
Remove from heat, and fold in cheese, butter, saffron, and pepper.
Season with salt.
INGREDIENT
Sous vide vegetable stock
see page 13
Olive oil
Yellow onions, finely minced
Shallots, finely minced
Carnaroli rice
Italian white wine (dryl
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese,
fine ly grated
Unsalted butter, cubed
Saffron threads
Black pepper, finely ground
Salt
Gold leaf
from page 3306
QUANTITY
400g
4Sg
SOg
109
150g
100g
57g
30g
0.4g
to taste
to taste
four sheets
o Add rice to onion mixture, and cook until trans lucent, about 2 min.
Yields2S0 g
SCALING
267%
30%
33%
6.5%
100%
67%
38%
20%
0.25%
Add wine and 150 g of stock to rice and oni on mixture, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
Saffron threads 2g 1.6%
Salt to taste
1 bar / 15 psifor3 min.
@) Run cold water over sealed press ure cooker.
Drain rice, discarding liquid .
Spread rice on chill ed baking sheet to speed cooling .
o Transferto container, and refrigerate rice and remaining 175 g of paell a stock separately until
use.
Finish cooking paella rice by si mmeri ng, while adding remaining stock a little at a time, until
rice is al dente, about 5 min.
Remove from heat, add saffron, and season with salt.
...,. from page 5241
---
-
---
PL ANT FOOD S 153
SOUS VIDE CLAM AND OAT RISOTTO Yields585g
INGREDIENT
Water
Steel-cut oats, rinsed
wit h warm water to
remove starch
Mussel jus
seepage3?
Geoduck clams,
bell y meat only
Montpelli er butter
see page 298
Salt
Wild arugula
Extra, vi rgin oli ve oil
Leeks, whites only,
fine julienne
Radishes, fin e julienne
Champagne vinegar
Young ginger, fine
julienne
from page 3308
QUANTITY
150g
100 g
50g
100 g
100g
to tas te
25g
15 g
15g
15g
109
7.5g
SCALING PROCEDURE
150% CD Vacuum seal together.
100% Cook sous vide in 90 c / 194 of bath for 10 mi n.
Strain, and reserve liquid.
50%
100%
100%
25%
15%
15%
15%
10%
7.5%
@) Cool oats, and reserve.
Vacuu m seal.
Cook sous vide in 50 c / 122 of bath for 30 min.
(2) Slice thinly, and reserve.
Melt in pan and then add cooled oats.
Stir unti l warmed through, and then add reserved cooking liquid as necessary to achieve
desired consistency.
@ Season oats, and reserve warm.
@ Combine in small bowl, and toss to coat evenly.
@ Spoon oats in thin layers in warmed bowls.
@ Top each portion with geoduck belly.
@ Garnish with sa lad.
PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE RISOTTO
Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Shall ots, minced 40g
Vegetable oi l 20g
Carnaroli rice 200g
White vegetable stock 180g
see page 6
Carrot juice nO g
Celery jui ce nO g
Vermouth 50g
Aged Gouda cheese, 100 g
finely grated
Unsalted butter, cubed 12g
Salt to taste
fro m page 3-308
154
SCALING PROCEDURE
20%
10%
100%
90%
55%
55%
25%
50%
6%
CD Saute shall ots in uncovered press ure cooker until translucent.
Add to shall ots, and saute until sli ghtly toasted and trans lucent, about 2 min.
Stir liquids into rice mixture.
@) Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 50 min.
Pour cold water over pressure cooker to quickly depressurize.
Mi x into hot ri sotto.
(2) Season risotto.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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BRAISED PINE NUTS WITH WINTER SQUASH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White veal stock 250 g
see page 6
Tomato confit 10 g
see page 179
Kabocha squash juice 1 kg
(from 4 kg
squash)
White wine (dry) 75 g
Olive oil 25 g
Shallots, finel y minced 25 g
Pine nuts, lightly toasted 100g
Kuri squash, peeled and 100 g
cut into large dice
Extra virgin olive oil 10 9
Salt to taste
Pickl ed butternut squash, 100 g
drained, from above
Extra virgin olive oil 15g
Parmigiano-Reggiano 12g
cheese, grated
Saffron threads 0.1 g
Black pepper, fres hl y to tas te
ground and sifted
Orange zest, grated to t aste
Salt to taste
from page 565
SCALING PROCEDURE
250%
10%
1,000%
75%
25%
25%
100%
100%
10%
100%
15%
12%
0.1%
o Puree until smooth, and reserve.
o Bring to simmer, and remove from heat .
Strain through fin e sieve to clarify, and reserve.
o Reduce to 50 g, about 5 min, and reserve.
Saute until tende r.
Add to shall ots, and deglaze with wine reduction.
(2) Add stock mi xt ure and kabocha squash juice.
Pressure-cook at gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi fo r 7 min.
o Cool.
@ Drain, reserving pine nuts a nd li quid separate ly .
@ Reduce liquid to form glaze.
@ Fold glaze into reserved pine nuts, and cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate .
@ Vacuum seal.
@ Cook sous vide in 90 c / 194 OF bat h for 1 y.. h.
@ Pass through fine sieve.
@ Season kuri squas h puree, and measure 80 g.
@ Re heat reserved pine nuts, and fo ld into kuri squash puree.
@ Fold in pi ckl ed butte rnut squas h, oli ve oi l, a nd cheese.
Season squas h mixt ure.
PLANT FOODS
Yields500 g
155
RAGOUT OF GRAINS
INGREDIENT
Button mushrooms, peeled
Grapeseed oil
Water
Spelt, soaked for12 h
Pearl barley, rinsed
Quinoa
Sprouted brown rice
Raw foie gras, brought to room temperature
Unsalted butter, cubed, brought to room
tem peratu re
Shiitake mushrooms,
finely minced
Shallots, finely minced
Seasonal wild mushrooms, finely minced
Rendered duck fat
Brown chicken jus
see page34
Mushroom stock, from above
Lemonjuice
Salt
from page 5129
QUANTITY
2 kg
100g
800g
35 g
40g
35g
35g
20g
20g
100g
75g
40g
45g
25g
25g
to taste
to taste
SCALING
2,000%
100%
800%
35%
40%
35%
35%
20%
20%
100%
75%
40%
45%
25%
25%
PROCEDURE
CD Coat mushrooms in oil.
(3) Roast in 175 c/ 350 OF oven until golden, about 30 min.
Place with roasted mushrooms in pot, and simmerfor1 h.
o Strain.
Yields280g
Measure and reserve 1 kg of mushroom stock, divided into four portions
of250 g each.
Measure and reserve 25 g more of mushroom stock for use during
fin ishing.
o Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
press ure of1 bar / 15 psi for12 min.
Drain, cool, and refrigerate.
Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for12 min.
@ Drain, cool, and refrigerate.
@ Combine wit h 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 2 min.
@ Drain, cool, and refrigerate.
@ Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 6 min.
@ Strain, cool, and reserve.
@ Drain.
@ Pass through fine sieve, and whisk with butter.
Vacuum seal foie gras butter, and refrigerate.
@ Saute mushrooms in duck fat until light golden and tender, about 10 min.
@ Add cooked grains, and warm through.
@ Finish wit h reserved foie gras butter, brown chicken jus, and mushroom
stock.
Season ragout.
ROOT VEGETABLE RISOTTO Yields 450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, finely minced 60g 50% CD Saute shallots until tender.
Olive oil 48g 40%
White wine 160g 133% (3) Deglaze shallots, and reduce until dry.
Carrots, cut like rice l20g 100% Add to shallots.
Potatoes, cut like rice 120g 100% o Cook together until vegetables are al dente, about 7 min.
Turnips, cut like rice 120 g 100%
Vegetable stock 40g 33% Whisk together in bowl.
see page 6
Stir into cooked vegetables.
Ultra-Sperse 5 2.4 g 2%
(National Starch brand)
o Bring mi xture to simmer, and remove immediately from heat.
Squash puree, warmed 60g 50% Stir into risotto.
see page 55
Unsalted butter, cubed 30 g 25% Fold into risotto until creamy.
Parmesan cheese, 24g 20%
finely grated
Salt to taste @ Season.
from page 3-309
156 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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MICROWAVED VEGETABLES
CD Select a technique. The tabl e below li sts our recomme ndations.
@) Prepare your ingredients in a uni fo rm size.
Eve nly arrange the m on a microwave-safe dish, or seal as specified.
@) Microwave at the prescribed power level.
Best Bets for Microwaving Vegetables
Time Power
Technique Best Bets Prep Procedure (min) (w)
cooking root vegetables baby beet, carrot, celery root, whole vacuum seal 3-7 800
potato, turnip
cooking leafy greens bok choy, broccoli, cabbage whole pl ace in 2 mm / )1,6 in ofwater in microwave- 3-5 800
safe dish, and cover with pl astic wrap
cooking bulbs artichoke, cardoon, celery, whole vacuum sea l 2-5 600
and fibrous vegetables fennel, leek, onion, scallions
frying herbs basil, carrot top, Italian pa rsl ey, leaves a rrange on oi led pl astic wrap 3- 4 600
sage
dehydrating raw vegetable beet, carrot, mushroom, puree spread raw puree thinly onto 12-20 200
purees into powders parsnip, s pinach microwave-safe dish
from page 3311
MICROWAVE-FRIED PARSLEY ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENT HAL Yields 8 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Frying oil as needed
Flat-leaf Italian parsley, 30 g
leaves only
Salt to taste
from page 3312
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
CD Stretch pl ast ic wrap over microwave-safe pl ate, e nsuring that it is flush with bottom of pl ate
and adheres tightly to pl ate's edges.
@) Brush plast ic wrap with thin fil m of oil.
Lay parsley across pl as ti c wrap, leaving a pproxi mately 2 cm / v.. in between leaves.
@) Brush tops of leaves thinly with oil.
Microwave at 600 W (75% power) for4 min or until cri sp, checking leaves every1V2 min
to prevent burning.
Transfe r fri ed parsl ey to pape r towel- lined tray.
([) Season.
Rese rve in airtight container, prefe rably lined with sili ca gel desiccant.
TOMATO POWDER ADAPTED FROM THOM AS KE LLER
Yields15 g
INGREDIENT
Tomato pulp, peeled,
seeded, and finely
chopped
from page 3312
QUANTITY
200 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Squeeze tightly in towel to extract excess moisture.
@) Spread in thin, even layer on mi crowave tray lined
with parchment paper.
Microwave on low power for 30-40 min, or until pulp
has dried completely but still retains its color.
@) Cool to room temperature.
Grind in coffee or spice grinder until as fine as
possible.
If some pieces do not break up during grinding, sift
powder through fine mesh straine r whi le stirring with
spoon.
([) Store in covered pl asti c container.
PLANT FOODS
Inexpensive PVC-based cling fi lm
should not be used for this tech-
nique because it poses health
hazards. Use polyethylene- based
fi lms instead.
Microwave ovens can be used for
de hydrating frui ts, vegetables, and
herbs in the same manner as this
recipe. Of course, conventional
methods of dehydration could also
be us ed (see page 2-428).
157
p +.: .... :;;;:. G; h .... p.
ARTICHOKE AND POTATO CHAAT
Yields 600 g (4 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Artichoke hearts, cleaned 200 g
Water 100g
Extra, virgin olive oil 40g
Unsalted butter 32 g
Fingerling potatoes 200g
(whole)
Brown butter 40g
see page 4213
Water 25g
Saffron threads O.lg
Masala Sev (chickpea 30g
flour noodles),
store-bought
Cashews, coarsely 10 9
crushed
Cilantro leaves (small) 109
Dates, thinly sliced 109
Mint, fine julienne 5g
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
Yogurt foam 100 g
see page 329
Tamarind paste 40g
see page 14S
Chaat masala to taste
see page SO
from page 3313
SICHUAN BOK CHOY
INGREDIENT
Hoisin sauce (store-
bought)
Fermented black bean
and chili paste (store-
bought)
Shaoxingwine
Soy sauce
Toasted-sesame oil
Shiitake mushroom caps
(small est possible)
Rice wine vinegar
Water
Sugar
Salt
Baby bok choy, cleaned
and cut in half
Water
Pressure-cooked sesame
seeds
see page1S1
Dried chili oil
see page28
from page 3313
QUANTITY
20g
15g
Bg
5g
19
100 g
100 g
50g
25g
3g
200g
50 g
50g
10 9
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine and vacuum seal.
50%
20%
16%
100%
20%
12.5%
0.05%
15%
5%
5%
5%
2.5%
50%
20%
o Microwave at BOO W (full power) for 3 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.
Remove artichokes very carefully from bag (steam wi ll escape), and cool completely.
@) Cut into small dice, and reserve.
Combine and vacuum seal.
Microwave at BOO W for 3 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.
o Remove potatoes very carefully fro m bag, and cool completely.
Cut into small dice, and reserve.
Toss with diced arti chokes and potatoes.
@ Season chaat, and divide into equal portions.
@ Garnish chaat generously.
Yields 350 g (4 portions)
SCALING PROCEDURE
10% CD Combine, and bring to simmer.
o Cool and reserve.
7.5%
4%
2.5%
0.5%
50%
50%
25%
12.5%
1.5%
100%
25%
25%
5%
Blanch in boiling water for 2 min.
@) Transfer to bowl, and reserve.
Whisk together until fully dissolved.
Bring brine to simmer, and remove from heat.
o Pour warm brine over blanched mushrooms.
Cool completely to pickle mushrooms, and reserve.
Vacuum seal together.
@ Microwave at BOO W (fu ll powe r) for 2 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.
@ Remove bok choy from bag, and serve immediate ly.
@ Garnish bok choy with spicy sauce, pickled mushrooms, sesame seeds, and chili oil.
@ Serve with steamed rice.
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Best Bets for Naked Frying
Prep
Ingredient (em) (i n)
artichokes, baby quartere d
asparagus, green whol e
and white
bokchoy quarte red
broccoli, florets 2.5 1
Brussels sprouts ha lved
cauliflower, florets 2.5
cucumber 2.5
daikon radish 1.25 0.5
eggplant 2.5
green beans whol e
scallions whole
shiitake, fresh whole
shiitake, dried whole
squash, autumn 2.5 1
sunchoke 1.25 0.5
zucchini 1.25 0.5
from page 3320
Deep-fry
(min)
3
3
4
3
5
4
4
8
5
3
2
4
2
3
3
1Y2
CD Prep. Preheat frying oil to 190 ' C / 375 ' F, and cut vegetables to dime ns ions indi cated.
The dried shii take must be hyd rated wit h warm waterfor at least 30 min before frying.
o Fr y for the time indi cated in the table. The vegetables typically turn very dark brown and look
almost overcooked.
Drain, and transfer fri ed vegetables to a tray lined wit h paper towels. Season with salt.
TOASTED GARLIC CHIPS Yields 24 pieces
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Garlic cloves 50 g
Milk, cold as needed
Fryingoil as needed
Salt to taste
from page 59
100% CD Slice1 mm /Y,6 inthi ck.
o Cover garli c slices wit h milk, heat to 70 ' C / 158 ' F,
and drain.
Repeat two more times.
o Deep-fry garlic sli ces in 160 ' C / 320 ' F oil unti l
golden and cri sp, about5 min.
Season.
Serve orstore in cool, dry pl ace.
DEEP-FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS Yields 350 g(four portions)
ADAPTED FROM DAVID C HANG
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Fish sauce BOg
lime juice 70g
Sugar 60g
Water SSg
Rice wine vinegar 25 g
Garl ic clove, minced 5g
Bird's eye chili, minced 3g
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.53g
CP Kelco brand)
Rice puffs 20 g
Cilantro stems,
10 9
1 cm / 'AI in long
Small mint leaves 4g
Brussels sprouts 500g
Frying oil as needed
from page 3321
SCALING
26%
14%
12%
11 %
5%
1%
0.6%
0.1%
(0.75%)'
4%
2%
0.8%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk together until sugar dissolves.
o Reserve sauce.
Meas ure indi vidua ll y, and reserve for garnis h.
o Peel off tough oute r leaves until only cores remain, about 2 cm / :y., in each in diameter.
Sli ce in half.
Deep-fry sprouts in 180 ' C / 355 ' F oi l until tender and very dark, about 5 min.
o Drain on paper towels.
Toss with sauce, arrange on pl at es, and garnish.
*(% of total weightoffirstftve ingredients)
PLANT fOODS 159
,..-
POMMES PONT-NEUF INSPIRED BY HESTO N BLUMENTHAL Yields 350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Russet potatoes SOO g
Water SOO g
Sugar lS g
Salt 7.Sg
Bakingsoda O.7Sg
from page 3323
A vacuum treatment both cools
and dries the exterior of the fries.
Heston Blumenthal found that
this process produces a thicker,
crunchier crust. He does the
vacuum cooling and drying step
twice: first after boiling, and again
after parcooking.
Air-cooling the chips after the
boiling step yields a thinne r, mo re
deli cate crust. To air-cool the fri es,
place th em in a single layer on a
wire rack. You can use a household
fan to speed the process.
We find that vacuum cooli ng and
drying after parfrying produces a
chip that is too dry for o ur tas tes.
We prefe r to vacuum cool after
boi ling, but to air cool after
parfryi ng.
SCALING
100%
100%
3%
1.5%
0.25%
PROCEDURE
<D Cut into batons 1.5 cm / % in thick by 1. 5 cm / % in tall.
(3) Whi sk sugar, salt, and baking soda into water.
Add potatoes and water mi xture to pot, an d boil for about 20 min until very tender
and nearl y falling apart.
@ Drain, and pl ace warm potatoes on wire rack in vacu um chamber.
Pull vacuum until surfaces of chips are dry and chips fee l cool, 3-4 min.
@) Optionally, vacuum-cool again, or air- cool in single layer.
o Bl anch in 150 'C / 300 ' F oi l until chips are mostly cooked but still pale, about 7 min.
Deep-fry in 220' C / 430 ' F oi l until crisp, about 2 min.
Drain on pape r towels.
PECTINASE-STEEPED FRIES Yields 350 g
ADAPTE D FROM N I LS NOREN AND DAVE ARNOLD
INGREDIENT
Russet potatoes
Water
Pectinex Ultra SP-L
(Novozymes brand)
Water
Sa lt
from page 3324
QUANTITY
SOO g
SOOg
2g
SOOg
109
SCALING
100%
100%
0.4%
100%
2%
PROCEDURE
<D Cut into batons 1.5 cm / % in thi ck by 1.5 cm / % in tall.
(3) Rinse thoroughl y to re move surface starch.
Combine with rinsed potatoes.
@ Soak for 1 h, and drain.
Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
@) Steam at 100 ' C / 212 ' F for1S min.
o Drain and cool.
Blanch in 170 ' C / 340 ' F oil for 3 min, and cool.
Deep-fry in 190 ' C / 375 ' F o il until crisp, about 3 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
STIR-FRIED FIDDLEHEAD FERNS Yields1SSg
INGREDIENT
Fiddlehead ferns
White chicken stock or
water
see page 11
Frying oi l
Alsatian bacon,
small dice
Scallions, fin e juli enne
Garlic, germ removed
a nd finely minced
Black peppercorns,
coarsely ground
Salt
fro m page 511 9
l fi n
QUANTITY
120 g
40g
20g
20g
10 9
6g
2.Sg
to taste
SCALING
100%
33%
16.7%
16.7%
8.3%
5%
2%
PROCEDURE
<D Stir-fry fiddleheads in very hot o il fo r 2 min, moving them constantly to ensure blistering
without burning. Douse with stock or water, a little at a time, until cooked through.
(3) Add garni shes and continue stir-frying for 20 s.
Season garni shed fidd le heads, and arrange on plates.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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STARCH-INFUSED FRIES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Russet potatoes SOOg
Water 100 g
Potato starch SOg
Water SOOg
Salt 109
from page 3325
ULTRASONIC FRIES
INGREDIENT
Russet potatoes
Water
Salt
from page 3325
QUANTITY
500g
500g
10 9
Yields350 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Cut into batons 1.5 cm / % in thick by 1.5 cm / % in tall , and rinse thoroughly to remove surface
starch.
20%
10%
100%
2%
(3) Combine with rinsed potatoes.
Vacuum seal.
@) Refrigerate for 30 min, and drai n.
o Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
@) Steam at 100 ' C/ 212 ' Ffor15 min.
o Drain.
Pl ace hot fries on wire rack in vacuum chamber.
Pull vacuum until surfaces offries are d ry.
@ Blanch in 170 ' C / 340 ' F oil for 3 min, and cool.
@ Deep-fry in 190 ' c / 375 ' F oil until crisp, about 3 min.
@ Drain on paper towe ls.
SCALING PROCEDURE
Yields 350 g
100% CD Cut into batons 1.5 cm / % in thick by 1.5 cm / % in tall, and rinse thoroughly to remove surface
starch.
100% (3) Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
2% Cook at 100 ' C / 212 ' F for15 min.
@) Transferto ultrasonic bat h, and cavitate for 45 min.
o Flip bag, and cavitate in ultrason ic bath for another45 min.
@) Drain.
o Place hot fries in single layer on wire rack.
Cool at room tempe rature, with or without fan.
Blanch in 170 ' c / 340 ' F oil for 3 min, and cool.
@ Deep-fry in 190 ' C / 375 ' F o il until golden and very crisp, about 5 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
STARCH-INFUSED ULTRASONIC FRIES Yields350 g
INGREDIENT
Russet potatoes
Water
Salt
Water
Potato starch
from page 3325
QUANTITY
500g
500g
109
100 g
50g
SCALING
100%
100%
2%
20%
10%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut into batons 1.5 cm /% in thick by 1.5 cm / % in tall,
and rins e thoroughly to remove surface starch.
(3) Vacuum seal together with potatoes.
Cook atlOO ' C/ 212 ' F for15 min.
@) Drain. Cool, and reserve.
o Whisk together.
@) Vacuum seal carefull y with cooked potatoes.
o Cavitate in ultrasoni c bath fo r 45 min.
Flip and cavitate in ultrasonic bath for another 45 min.
Drai n.
@ Place hot fries on wire rack in vacuum chamber.
@ Pull vacuum until surfaces of fries are dry.
@ Blanch in 170 ' C / 340 ' F oil for 3 min, and cool.
@ Deep-fry in 190 ' C/ 375 ' F oil unti l crisp, for 3 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
PLANT FOODS
The chips must be cooled and dried
both after the boili ng step and after
parfrying. Vacuum cooling and
air cooling both work, but yield
different textures- see page 3322.
We use a 21 1 / 5Y2 gal Branson 8150
ultrasonic bath set at a frequency
of 40 kHz for making these fries.
161
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FRUIT AND VEGETABLE CHIPS
Best Bets for Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips
Slice Deep-fry
Ingredient (mm) (in) (OC) (oF) (s)
apple 1;32 165 330 105
Asian pear 1;32 190 375 100
carrot 1 1,132 190 375 4 0
celery root 1-3
Y3rVa
165 330 60
cucumber{and pickles)* 1-3 1;3rVa 165 330 15- 25
eggplant* 3 Va
165 330 90
jalapeno* 3
Va
165 330 15
lotus root 1-3
Y3rVa
190 375 15- 25
melon 1;32 165 330 105
pineapple 1,132 165 330 120
potato 1-3 1;3rVa 19 0 375 35
strawberry* 3
Va
165 330 40
tomato* 3
Va
165 330 15
watermelon 1,132 165 330 105
from page 3-328 >(dehydrate at 60 e1 140 OF for 1 h before frying)
WATERMELON CHIPS
INGREDIENT
Seedless watermelon flesh, ski n
and pith removed
Water
QUANTITY
200g
(from one whole)
100 g
Crisp Coat UC (National Starch brand) 50 g
or raw potato starch
Salt to taste
Neutral oi l as needed
from page 3-328
RESTRUCTURED POTATO CHIPS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 200 g
Instant potato fl akes 50g
Raw potato starch (or Ultra-Crisp CS 18.5g
or Crisp Coat UCfor puffed chips)
Neutral oi l 15g
Salt 1. 5g
from page 3330
Yi elds 100 g
SCALING
100%
50%
25%
Yields 100 g
SCALING
400%
100%
37%
30%
3%
To make puffed chips, use Ultra-Crisp CS or Crisp Coat UC rat her than raw
potato starch, and include step 5. For a great fl avor addition, replace the
water with cheese- infused wate r (see page 20).
CD Slice evenl y. See the table at left for suggested ingredi ents and
thicknesses. Use a meat sli cer, if available, to produce slices of
uniform thickness.
@) MixCri spCoatUCorpotatostarch with water to make a slurry.
Optionally, add Met hocel K100M to the slurry to reduce oil.
Dip sli ces in starch slurry, and arrange t he m in one layer in a sous
vide bag. Vacuum seal. A full vacuum impregnates the slices wit h
starch, yielding a texture simil ar to that of a thin potato chip.
o Remove sli ces from bag, and pat dry.
@) Dehydrate (optional). For delicate fruits and vegetables such as
to matoes, cucumbers, and jalapenos, dehydrate the starch-coated
sli ces at 50 C / 122 OF until compl etely dry, up to 2 h.
Deep-fry unt il crisp a nd golden. See the table for a recommended
oil temperat ure and frying time.
(2) Drain on absorbent paper towels, and season with salt.
Adding 0.5% of Methocel K100M by weight of slurry can reduce the oil
uptake of the chips after frying by up to 20%. For regular potato chips,
simply compress the potato sli ces with a stock solution oflOO% water and
0.5% Methocel K100M before fr ying for similar results. The film-forming
properti es of methylcellul ose prevent the vacuoles from absorbing as much
oi l upon cooli ng.
CD Combine all ingredients.
@) Blend (optional). For puffed chips only, puree wi th hand blender or
ble nde r until smooth, about 1 min.
Cast mixture into circul a r template, 2 mm / }ll2 in thick and 7.5 cm / 3 in.
in diameter.
o Bake in 175 C / 350 OF ove n on t ray lined with sili cone mat until golden
and crisp, about 9 mi n.
@) Turn over (o pti onal). For puffed chips only, flip and bake anothe r 2-3 min
to e nsure they are completely baked through.
lh7
VO LU ME 6 . KI TCHE N MANUAL
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BATTER-FRYING
CD Select a batter. Use the BatterTextures tabl e at ri ght to choose an option
that yields the texture you desire.
(3) Mix flours or starches with seasonings. Ingredients and proportions are
li sted in the table below.
Blend liquid with rising agents.
o Whisk li quid into dry mixture.
Pour batter into siphon (for siphoned batters only). Charge siphon with
the gas li sted in the scaling column.
@) Coat food with an adhesive (opt ional). Batters cling better to low-
moisture foods if you first dip the food in milk, eggs, or another sticky
substance.
(2) Coat evenly in dry starch (see page 162). Shake off any excess.
Dispense batter into bowl, and coat the food evenl y.
Fry. For recommended frying temperatures and times, see individual
recipes.
@ Pat dry, and season. Salt is appropri ate for most foods.
- -- Best Bets for Batters
Batter Textures
Crisp Crunchy
airy tempura, whol e egg
lacy yeast
thin cider
rich egg yolk
dense beignet cornmeal
fro m page 3 -332
Batter Flour or starch (sca ling) Seasoning (scaling) liquid (scaling) Ri s ing agent
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tempura
whole
egg
yeast
crispy
tempura
cider
egg yolk
beignet
cornmeal
flour 67%
ri ce flour 67%
sweet-potato starch 37.5%
flour 37.5%
Trisol (Texturas 90%
brand)
flour 65%
flour 28.5%
cornstarch 12.5%
Ultra Crisp CS 10.0 %
(National Starch
brand)
t apioca starch 35%
flour 25%
xanthan gum 0.15%
potato starch 50%
flour 35%
glutinous rice flour 15%
flour 33.0%
tapioca starch 33.0%
trehalose 16.5%
cornmeal 40.0%
flour 17.5%
nf a sake 100% ba king powde r
vodka 75% siphon*
ma lt syrup 8%
salt 2% blonde ale 100% dry yeast
egg 15% siphon*
salt 1% water 100% fresh yeast
salt 3% water 100.0 % baking powder
vodka 12. 5% siphon*
nfa hard cider 100% ba king soda
siphon*
salt 2.5% ice wate r 100% the rma l shock
Old Bay 1.0%
malt vinegar 30 %
salt
egg yolk 8%
salt 2% carbonated 100% ba king soda
wate r
vodka 11 %
salt 1.5% buttermilk 100% Me thoce l SGA 150
cayenne peppe r 0.5% baking powde r
Extra crispy
crispy tempura
(scaling)
2%
two charges
of CO
2
0.6%
two charges
ofNP
2%
0 .5%
two cha rges
ofNP
0.75%
two charges
ofNp
1.5%
l.25%
0.60%
See
page
5197
164
166
--
from page 3333
*(we use 7 I siphons;fill Siphon at least halffull, and adjust quantity of charges as needed)
PLANT FOODS 163
. ~ : ~ ~ ' . ' .- . r'-: ' :
SPOT PRAWN AND LOTUS ROOT
Yields 600 g
TEMPURA WITH SMOKED WHITE SOY SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Shrimp meat 150g
Lard 15g
Japanese potato starch 10 9
Eggyolk 8g
Eggwhite 7g
Sake 7g
White soy sauce 7g
Ginger, mashed to paste 2g
Salt 2g
Young lotus roots, peeled 90 g
and sliced 1 cm / Yo in thick
Live spot prawns 200g
(four prawns)
Sake, cold 150g
Vodka 112g
All-purpose flour 100g
Rice flour 100g
Maltsyrup 12 g
Baking powder 3g
Smoked white soy sauce 100g
see page 183
from page 5201
FRIED PICKLES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 200g
All-purpose flour nOg
Trisol (Texturas brand) 180g
Yeast (fresh) 4g
Salt 2g
Pickling cucumbers 250 g
White wine vinegar 200g
Water 150g
Sugar 125 g
Salt 12.5 g
Garlic, thinly sliced 6.5g
Celery seeds 0.5g
Chili flakes O.lg
Dill 2g
Fryingoil as needed
from page 575
SCALING
75%
7.5%
5%
4%
3.5%
3.5%
3.5%
1%
1%
45%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, and blend to fine paste.
Fill cavities of lotus root sli ces with shrimp paste.
Refrigerate until firm, about 30 min.
o Peel.
Refrigerate.
Combine flour, rice flour, and baking powderfortempura batter.
0) Bl end flour mixture with sake, vodka, and malt syrup until well incorporated.
75%
56%
50%
50%
6%
1.5%
Transfer batter to siphon, and charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges. Siphon batter into
bowl.
Dip lotus root sli ces into batter to coat evenly.
@ Deep-fry lotus root slices and spot prawns in 190 ' ( / 375 ' F oil until crisp and golden, about
2 min.
SO% @ Arrange on plates, and serve with smoked white soy sauce for dipping.
SCALING PROCEDURE
80% CD Mix to make batter.
52% Allow to rest at room temperature for 30 min.
72%
(55%)*
1.6%
(0.8%)**
0.8%
100%
80g
60%
50%
5%
2.S%
0.3%
0.05%
0.8%
Season batter, and reserve.
o Cut into sli ces 6 mm / ',4 in thick, and reserve.
Combine to make brine, and let cool.
Vacuum seal with cucumber sli ces and cooled brine.
0) Refrige rate for at least 12 h.
Dip pickle sli ces in batter.
Deep-fry in 200 ' ( / 390 ' F oil for 2 min.
@ Drain on papertowels.
*(% of total weight of water and flour used for batter)
**(% of total weightoffirstthree ingredients)
VOl liME 6 . KI TCHEN MANUAL
Yields2S0 g
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CRISPY HALIBUT CHEEK ADAPTED FROM H ESTON BLUMENTHA L Yields BOOg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
All-purpose wheat flour 200g
Rice flour 200g
Salt 4g
Baking powder 3g
Vodka 350g
Water 200g
Maltsyrup 12g
Halibut cheeks, cleaned 400g
of connective tissue (four cheeks)
Trisol (Texturas brand) 100g
Neutral oil as needed
from page 3334
SCALING
50%
50%
1%
0.75%
B7.5%
50%
3%
100%
25%
PROCEDURE
CD Sifttogether, and reserve.
o Bl end.
Whisk into dry mi xture until completely incorporated.
@) Pour into 11 siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
Shake vigorously and reserve siphon refrigerated.
Dust Trisol evenly over cheeks.
o Skewer each cheek.
Siphon batter into bowl.
Coat cheeks evenly with foam batter.
@ Fry in 200 ' C / 400 OF oi l.
@ Lift extra batter from bowl with fork, and dri zzle onto cheeks to build lacy surfaces.
Make sure to flip cheeks in oil whi le drizzling batter, to build an even crust.
@ Remove each cheek from oil when its core reaches 50 c / 122 ' F, about 6 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
THE COLONEL'S FRIED CHICKEN INSPIRED BY COLONEL HARLAN SANDERS Yields BOO g
INGREDIENT
Chicken, drumsticks
Cake flour
All-purpose bleached
wheat flour
Whole wheat flour
Black peppercorns
White peppercorns
Paprika
Onion powder
Caraway seeds
Nutmeg
Sage, rubbed
All spice, ground
Thyme
Cayenne pepper
Bay leaf
Salt
Monosodium glutamate
(MSG)
Whole milk
Eggs
from page 3336
QUANTITY
BOOg
200g
160g
32g
109
Bg
4.5g
4g
2.5g
1.5 g
0.7g
0.5 g
0.5 g
0.3g
O.lg
24g
14g
120g
60g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Clean, pat dry on paper towels, and reserve.
25% 0 Combine and reserve.
20%
4%
1.25%
1%
0.56%
0.5%
0.31%
O.lB%
O.OB%
0.06%
0.06%
0.03%
0.01%
3%
1.75%
15%
7.5%
Grind spices and herbs finely.
@) Combine with flour mixture.
Combine with seasoned flour mixture, and reserve.
Blend together until smooth.
o Dip chicken pieces into egg mixture, and dredge in seasoned flour mi xture.
Pressure-fry coated chicken in 160 'C / 325 OF oil for 7 min. Alternatively, fry in 1BO ' C / 360 OF
oil unti l golden and cooked through, about12 min.
PLANT FOODS 165
d
MODERNIST FRIED CHICKEN
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Chicken legs with skin 1 kg (four legs)
Water 500g
Salt 35 g
Chi cken skin, from whol e 20 g
chicken
Activa RM
109
Water 50g
Bakingsoda 5g
Vodka 450g
Spray-dried buttermilk 15 g
see page 59 or store- bought
Cayenne pepper 2g
Bay leaf, powdered 19
Black pepper, coarsely 19
ground
Frying oil as needed
from page 3337
OYSTER BEIGNET
INGREDIENT
Tapioca starch
All -purpose flour
Baki ngsoda
Xa nt han gum
Hard cider
Kumamoto oysters
Cornstarch
Salt
from page 528
166
QUANTITY
85g
60g
2g
O.4g
240g
12 oysters
as needed
to taste
SCALING
100%
50%
3.5%
2%
1%
5%
0.5%
45%
1.5%
0.2%
0.1 %
0.1%
SCALING
35%
25%
0.85%
0.17%
100%
Yields l kg
PROCEDURE
CD Re move thigh bones from legs; leave lowe r leg bones in.
(3) Whisk together until salt di ssolves to make brine.
Vacuum seal with prepared chicken legs.
o Brine in refrigerator for 5 h, or vacu um tumble for 30 min (see page 3152), and then drain.
Cut pieces of skin to match dimensio ns of exposed th igh meat.
DustActiva over cut skin pieces and exposed, boneless t hi gh meat.
o Press matching skin pieces to meat so that no skin remai ns exposed.
Wrap each leg tightl y with plastic wrap, and refrigerate 12 h to let proteins bond.
Mix unti l baking soda dissolves.
@ Mix with baking soda solution to make brine.
@ Unwrap chicken legs, and vacuum seal individually with equal porti ons of brine.
@ Brine, refrigerated, for 3 h, orvacuu m tumble for 30 min.
@ Remove from bag, and pat dry.
<8 Vacuum seal dry chicken legs.
@ Cook sous vide in 64 ' C / 147 ' F bath for 2 h.
<8 Blotdry.
@ Whisk together spice mixture, and reserve.
@ Fry thighs in 225 ' C / 435 ' F o il for 4 min.
@ Drain on paper towels, and dust with spice mixture.
PROCEDURE
CD Mix together.
(3) Whisk into dry mixture to form batter.
Transfer batterto 11 whipping siphon.
Yields12 beignets
o Charge batter-fi ll ed siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges and shake vigorously.
Toss oysters in cornstarch and skewer them.
Dispense batter into containe r, and dip oysters in batter to coat fully.
o Deep-fry oysters briefly in 200 ' C / 390 OF oil until crispy, golde n, and just warmed through,
about 2 min.
Remove from skewers, dry on paper towel s, and season with salt.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANU AL
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BREADING
Breadings
Coating
bread crumbs
processed grain (cream of wheat,
rolled oats, instant polenta,
pressed rice flakes)
freeze-dried vegetable flakes
(carrot, corn, onion, potato)
puffed snacks
Adhesives
Coating Stickiness
Density Texture
heavy crispy
li ght crunchy
to cri spy
li ght very crispy
varies crunchy
Flavor
Oil absorption
moderate
moderate
hi gh
low
CD Prep the core ingredi e nt, if required.
Cut into eve n pi eces. If the food pieces di ffe r greatly in size,
some will overcook while others don't cook enough.
Dust food evenl y wit h a n adhesive coating. The Adhesives
table li sts some that we recomme nd.
o Dip in a liquid coat ing, and drain excess. See the Liquids
table for suggest ions.
Roll foo d in breading to cover. All of the options li sted in the
Breadings table ca n work we ll.
o Refrige rate breaded food until crust is fi rm, at least1 h.
-
albumin powder acceptable egg
o Deep-fry until golden. We fri e d these in 190 ' C / 375 ' F o il
for about 90 s. For other recommended temperatures and
times, see ind ivid ual recipes.
@) Drain on papertowels, and season.
-
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flour good
starch good
modified starch very good
Trisol (Texturas brand) very good
Liquids
Coating
whole egg
eggyolk
egg white foam
slurry oflOO% starch, 30% water
methylcellulose KlOOM, slurry, or
foam (100% water, 0.5% KlOOM)
from page 3338-339
CRISPY OKRA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Okra, cut in half 100g
lengthwise
Limejuice 2g
Salt 2g
Chili powder 1 g
Chickpea flour 35 g
Frying oil as needed
;::J from page 3338
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raw flour
varies, raw starch
neutral
neutral
Film thickness Film flavor
thi ck egg
medium egg
medium egg
thin ne utral
thin methyl cellulose
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine, and let marinate fo r 5 min.
(3) Drain.
2%
2%
1%
35% Coat okra in chickpea flour, and shake off excess.
o Deep-fry okra until crispy and golden, about 3 min.
Drain on paper towel- lined tray.
PLANT FOODS
Yields120 g
167
r
~ /
CROMESQUIS INSPIRED BY MARC MENEAU
Yields 1.5 kg (50 cromesquis)
INGREDIENT
Red port, chilled
160 Bloom gelatin
Raw duck foie gras
Heavy cream
Black truffle juice (store-
bought) or mush room jus
see page 37
Salt
Black pepper, ground
Ultra-Sperse 3
(National Starch brand)
Iota carrageenan
Low-acyl gell an
(Kelcogel f, CP Kelco
brand)
Black trufAe, finely
minced
Trisol (Texturas brand)
Eggs
Eggyolks
fine, dry bread crumbs
frying oi l
from page 3-340
QUANTITY
4S0g
SOg
3S0g
600g
SOg
lS g
0.2 g
6g
2.4 g
1.8g
30 g
as needed
300g
7sg
l s0g
as needed
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Green tomatoes, cored 300g
Cultured buttermilk l s0g
Eggs, blended ls0 g
Cornmeal 100g
Panko 2sg
Black pepper 0.8g
Cayenne pepper 0.2g
Canolaoil as needed
Salt to taste
from page 5-74
168
SCALING PROCEDURE
129% CD Disperse gelat in in port.
14.3% 0 Simmer until reduced to 200 g, and rese rve warm.
100% Cutfoie gras into cubes.
o Sear until exteriors are golden but centers are sti ll raw, about 1 min, and reserve warm.
171%
14.3%
4.3%
0.05%
1. 7%
(0.5%)'
0.68%
(0.2%)'
0.51%
(0.75%)'
8.5%
85%
21.4%
43%
Whi sk together and season.
Dry blend powders, and disperse into cold cream mi xt ure.
(2) Bring to simme r whi le bl end ing to hydrate fully.
Blend in warm port reduction and fo ie gras until smooth.
@ Fold into hot puree.
Cast mi xture in nonsti ck mold in layers 2 cm / ~ in thi ck.
@) Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
@ Cut foi e gras gel into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.
@ Dredge cubes in Trisol.
@ Blend unti l smooth.
@ Coat floured cubes in egg mi xture, and then dredge in bread crumbs.
@ Refri gerate cubes for 2 h to ha rde n crusts.
@ Fry cubes in 190 C / 375 OF oil unti l golden, about 2 min.
@ Drain on pape r towels.
*( % of tot 01 weight offirstfive ingredients)
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Bl anch for 1 min.
o Shock in ice-water bath.
Peel off skins.
@ Cut sli ces 8 mm / ~ 6 in thick.
50% Blend to make was h.
50%
35% Mix to make cornmea l breading.
8.5% (2) Dredge tomato slices in wash.
0.25% Coat slices with cornmeal breading.
0.05%
Dee p-fry in 200 c / 390 OF oi l for 2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
@) Season.
VO LUME 6 . KI TCHEN MANUAL
Yields 250 g
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CORN CROQUETTA INSPIRED BY DAVID KI NCH Yields 350 g (24 croquettas)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Frozen sweet corn, 200g
thawed
Heavy cream 90g
Salt Sg
Cayenne pepper 3g
Vanilla seeds and pulp 1.Sg
(from one
vanilla bean)
Corn puree, from above 300 g
160 Bloom gelatin 9g
Water 100 g
Methylcellulose E4M 1.5 g
Crisp Coat UC 5 g
(National Starch brand)
Corn powder, freeze- SOg
dried
see page188
Panko SOg
Fryingoil as needed
Salt to taste
from page 3341
PORK TROTTER BEIGNET
INGREDIENT
Brown pork stock
see page 6
Water
Pork trotter
Pork snout
Shallots, minced
Neutral oil
Black trumpet
mushrooms, minced
Cured ham, brunoise
Grain mustard
Fine salt
Black pepper, coarsely
ground
Nutmeg, grated
Eggs, whisked
Dried brioche crumbs
Methocel Kl00M (Dow
brand)
from page 538
QUANTITY
600g
1 kg
SOOg
250 g
200g
SOg
40g
40g
10 9
2.2g
0.2g
0.1 g
200g
100 g
30 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
67% CD Combine, and puree until smooth.
30%
1.7%
1%
0.5%
100%
3%
50%
0.75%
2.5%
25%
25%
(3) Strain through fine sieve, and reserve 300 g of corn puree.
Di spe rse gelati n in 100 g of reserved corn puree.
o Warm mixture until gelatin is fu ll y dissolved.
Whisk in remaining reserved corn puree.
Cast mixture in layer 2.5 cm / 1 in thick in nonstick mold.
o Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
Bring waterto si mmer.
Ble nd in methylcellul ose until fully dissolved, 2-3 min.
@ Refrigerate at least 4 h to hydrate.
@ Cut gelled puree into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.
@) Dust cubes evenly with Crisp Coat to coat.
@ Whi p hydrated methylcellul ose with e lectric whi sk to form stiff and foamy peaks.
@ Coat cubes evenly wit h whisked methylcellul ose, and reserve.
@ Mix to make breading.
@ Dredge foam-covered cubes in breading mix.
@) Refrigerate cubes to firm and bind crusts, about 30 min.
@ Fry cubes in 190 c / 375 OF oil unt il golden, about 1 V2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
@ Season.
SCALING PROCEDURE
120% CD Reduce to aboutlOO g, unti l glaze is achieved.
(3) Cool and reserve.
200% Pressure-cook together at gauge pressure of l bar / 15 psi for 2V2 h.
100% 0 Remove bones from trotter and snout, and separate skin and coll agen from meat.
50% Dice skin and meat finely, keeping them separate.
Combine 120 g of meat and 30 g of skin, and reserve.
40%
10%
8%
8%
2%
0.44%
0.04%
0.02%
40%
20%
6%
o Cook together unti l shallots and mushrooms are
very tender, about 20 min.
Remove from heat.
Fold with cooked pork into shall ot mi xt ure.
@ Whisk in reserved pork glaze.
@ Cast onto silicone mat in layer 1.5 cm / :y.. in thick.
@) Refrigerat e until set, at least 3 h.
@ Cut into cubes.
@ Dredge each beignet cube in Methocel Kl00M unt il evenly coated.
@ Roll cubes in egg, and then coat wit h brioche crumbs.
@ Refrigerate for at least 1 h before frying, to firm crusts.
@) Deep-fry cubes in 190 C/ 375 OF oil for 1 min, and then drain on paper towels.
PLANT FOODS
Yields400g
169
....
~
ONION RINGS
INGREDIENT
Onions, thinly sliced
Unsalted butter
Water
Onion stock, cold
see page 11
Methocel A15C (Dow
brand)
Salt
Onion stock, cold, from
above
Tapioca starch
Salt
Yellow onions, thinly
sliced
Neutral oil
Tapioca starch
Egg, blended
Fryingoil
from page 3342
QUANTITY
750 g
100g
150g
45g
4g
1. 5g
200 g
120 g
3g
500g
50g
100 g
50g
as needed
Yields 250 g(about10 onion rings)
SCALING PROCEDURE
375%
50%
75%
22.5%
2%
0.75%
100%
60%
1.5%
250%
25%
50%
25%
CD Saute until li ght golde n, aboutlO min and cool.
(3) Vacuum seal cooked onions with water.
Cooksous vide in 90 ' C/ 194 ' F bath fo r1 h.
o Strain and cool onion stock. Measure 245 g for recipe.
Bring onion stock to simmer, and disperse Methocel A15C and salt.
Refrigerate Methocel soluti on for at least 8 h to hydrate fully, and reserve cold.
o Combine and blend all ingredie nts in food processor to fine, smooth paste.
Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 93 ' C/ 200 ' F bath for20 min.
@ Cool compl etely until hardened, at least 12 h.
@ Remove from bag, and grate wit h Microplane.
@ Dehydrate at 70 'C / 160 ' F until hardened, about 3 h.
@ Reserve breading in airtight containe r.
@ Brown onions over low heat.
@ Deglaze with water as needed until very tender, about 40 min.
@ Drain excess oil , and blend to smooth puree.
@ Cool compl etely, and measure 100 g.
@ Blend 100 g of puree with Methocel solution, and transfer mixture to pastry bag.
@ Pipe onion ring shapes onto sil icone mat.
@) Freeze.
@ Dredge froze n onion rings in tapioca starch, and shake off excess.
@ Dip rings in egg.
@) Dredge rings in breading until evenly coated, a nd place on silicone mat.
@ Deep-fry rings in 190 ' C / 375 ' F oil for 2 min, e nsuring that puree stays inside coating.
@) Drain on paper towels.
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RAZOR CLAM "TAKOYAKI"
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
live razor clams 900g
Ginger, thinly sliced 5g
Scallions, thinly sliced 5g
Sake (dry) 30 g
Tokyo negi (Japanese 225g
leek), finely minced
Unsalted butter, cubed 40g
Heavy cream 150 g
Clam juice, from above 50 g
Clam cream, from above 200g
Salt 4g
Ultra-Sperse 3 1 g
(National Starch brand)
Iota carrageenan O.4g
low-acyl gellan (Gellan F, 0.3g
CP Kelco brand)
Water, boiling 50g
Methocel K100M 0.25g
(Dow brand)
Batter Bind S 50g
(National Starch brand)
Panko, finely ground 50g
Mutsu apple, cut into 20g
batons
Grey mullet bottarga 109
Sea beans, blanched 109
Frying oil as needed
lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5199
SCALING
450%
2.5%
2.5%
15%
112.5%
20%
75%
25%
100%
2%
0.5%
0.2%
0.15%
25%
0.125%
25%
25%
10%
5%
5%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
(3) Steam at 100 c / 212 OF for 6 min.
Strain cl am juice, and rese rve 50 g.
o Shuck clams, reserving any additiona l juice.
Mince clam meat, and reserve.
o Sweat until tende r, about 3 min.
(2) Add, and bring to simmer.
Strain, and measure 200 g of clam cream.
Refrigerate until cold.
@ Whisk into cold cl am cream, and bring to simme r to hydrate.
@ Puree with immersion blender over ice-water bath to form fluid gel.
@ Fold in res erved minced clam meat.
@ Pipe mi xt ure into spherical silicone molds 2 em /3;" in. in di ameter.
@ Freeze until gel ball s are hardened, at least 45 min.
@ Disperse methyl ce llul ose into boiling water, blending constantly.
@ Cool and reserve.
@ Dust over ball s.
@ Whip methylcellulose mixture into stifffoam.
@ Dip duste d ball s into foam to fully cover surface.
@ Roll coated ball s in panko.
@) Dip breaded ball s in met hylcellul ose foam and th en panko once more.
@) Refrigerate to firm crust, at least 2 h.
Yields 250 g 00 balls)
@) To serve, deep-fry takoyaki ball s in 190 C/ 375 OF oil until golden, about 1 min. Set in centers
of small bowls.
() Toss together apple and sea beans and pl ace with takoyaki balls.
@ Season bowls with lime juice and salt.
@ Garnish with shavings ofbottarga.
PLANT FOODS
171
r
CRISPY CORN PUDDING Yields 780 g
INGREDIENT
For the popcorn puree:
Whole milk
Popped corn
forthe corn pudding:
Frozen white corn, thawed
Unsalted butter
Popcorn puree, cold, from
above
160 Bloom gelatin
Heavy cream
Eggyolks
Maple syrup (Grade B)
Salt
Cayenne pepper
Thyme essential oil
for the corn pudding crust:
freeze-dried corn
see page 188
Panko
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
800 g 355% CD Bring milk to boil, and remove from heat.
140 g 62% (3) Add corn, cover, and steep for 30 min.
Puree mi xture.
225g
20g
350g
20g
100g
36g
34g
7g
3g
0.01 g
200g
200g
100%
9%
o Pass through fine sieve.
Cool.
Measure 350 g of popcorn puree, and reserve.
o Saute until lightly golden.
Cool and reserve.
155% Dispe rs e gelatin in popcorn puree.
9%
(5.7%)*
44.5%
16%
15%
3%
1.5%
0.004%
89%
89%
@ Bring to simmerto dissolve.
@ Remove from heat, and cool.
@ Bl e nd until smooth with sauteed white corn and gelled puree.
@ Pass through fine sieve.
@ Cast in mold in layer 2.5 em / 1 in thick.
@) Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
@ Cut into cubes.
@ Combine to make breading, and reserve.
All -purpose bleached flour 100 g 44.5%
22%
@ Combine.
Ultra-Crisp (National Starch 50 g
brand)
Eggs, whisked 125g
frying oil as needed
from page 5104
56%
@ Dredge corn cubes in starch blend until eve nly coated.
@ Dip cubes in eggs, and finish by coating with reserved breading. Refrigerate until use.
@ Deep-fry corn pudding cubes in 190 C / 375 OF oi l until golden, about 1 min. Drain on paper
towels.
*(% of weight of pop com puree)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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SALTING, PICKLING, AND FERMENTING
CD Select an ingredi ent and a preservation method. The Best Bets for
Preservation tabl e on page 182 suggests many good options.
o Mix brine or cure, and combine with aromatics. Use the table below to
determine quantities. Note that weights are scaled in proportion to the
vinegar for vinegar pickles and to the fru it or vegetable for other kinds of
preserves.
Cook or ferment. For sour or sweet vinegar pickl es, bring the brine and
aromatics to a simmer, and pour over the prepared ingredie nts. For oil
and sugar preserves, cook all ingredients over low heat unt il they are very
tender and their surfaces are nearly dry. Keep fermented pi ckles or
sauerkraut unsealed in a dark, cool place for at least two weeks; check
that liquid exuded from the ingredients always covers the soli ds.
o Refrigerate (nonfermented preserves only). After cooking, cover t he
ingredients' complete ly with brine or cure, vacuum seal them or place
them in an airtight container, and then refrigerate them to pickle or cure.
Keep brined and cured products refrigerated.
~ Formulas for Preserving Produce
~
Product Ingredient (scaling) Aromatics (scaling) See page
sour vinegar pickles vinega r 100% garlic 1.5% 176
water 40% b lack peppercorns 0.5%
salt 4% mustard seeds 0.5%
calci um lactate (optio na l, to firm) 1% red chili es (optional) 0.2%
sweet vinegar pickles vinegar 100% coriander seeds 1.00% 178
water 70% star anise 1.00%
sugar 40% ginger 1.00%
salt 5% le mo n zest 0.40%
pectin methyl esterase e nzyme 0.4% white peppercorns 0.25%
(NovoShape brand, optional, to firm)
salt pickles fruit or vegetable 100% nla
salt 9%
s ugar 9%
fermented pickles fruit or vegetable 100% nl a 177
salt 1.5%
lactic acid (optional, to e nhance flavor) 0.2%
sugar preserves fruit or vegetable 100% lemon zest 0.5% 180
suga r 100% vanill a pulp and seeds 0.1%
water 100%
from page 3348
Note that the table above does not include the preparation steps that should be taken to pasteurize the food. Store any unpasteuri zed foods in the refrigera-
tor as you would fresh foods. Cann ing and heat preservation requ ire more inte nse pasteuri zation; see Canning, page 2-75, for detai ls.
PRESERVED PEAR IN MUSTARD OIL Yields300 g
INGREDIENT
Anjou pears
Mustard oil
~ Yell ow mustard seeds
~
~
Curry leaves
Water
White wine vinegar
Glucose syrup DE 40
Sugar
~ from page 5-283
QUANTITY
250g
109
10 9
2g
100 g
75g
50g
25g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Peel and core.
4%
4%
0.8%
40%
30%
20%
10%
o Scoop 12 spheres with melon baller, and reserve.
Toast seeds and curry leaves in oil until golden, about 3 min, and reserve.
o Combi ne remaining ingredients, and warm to make syrup.
Add mustard oil mixture.
@ Vacuum seal pear spheres with syrup.
o Refrigerate for at least 2 h before using, and up to 24 h total, after which pear spheres wi ll
become too soft.
PLANT FOODS 173
PRESERVED LEMONS ADAPTED FROM BRADFORD THOMPSON
Yields2 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
lemons (organic) 3 kg
(about 25 large)
Salt 1.5 kg
Sugar 800g
Black peppercorns 50g
Cinnamon sticks, 25g
crushed lightly
Coriander seeds 25g
Fennel seeds 20g
Saffron threads 18 g
Star anise, crushed li ghtly 10 g
Black onion seeds 5g
from page 3350
PICKLED GARLIC
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Garlic cloves 100 g
White wine vinegar 200g
Water 75g
Sugar 25g
Thyme 5g
Salt 4g
from page 526
PICKLED TAPIOCA PEARL
INGREDIENT
Water
Tapioca pearls
Rice wine vinegar
Oyster juice
see page 81
Sugar
lime juice
Salt
from page 5207
174
QUANTITY
200g
100g
110 g
40g
15 g
109
3g
SCALING
100%
50%
26.6%
1.6%
0.8%
0.8%
0.6%
0.6%
0.3%
0.2%
SCALING
100%
200%
75%
25%
5%
4%
SCALING
200%
100%
110%
40%
15%
10%
3%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut off one slice, 2.5 cm / 1 in thick, from one end of each lemon.
o Cut each lemon as if to quarter, but keep lemon intact by not fully cutt ing through its flesh and
not cutting through its unsliced end.
Reserve lemons in large bowl.
o Combine.
Place five 11 / 32 fI oz canning jars with li ds in boilingwaterto steri li ze.
@) Air-dry steri li zed jars and lids on rack.
o Open up each lemon without breaking its uns liced end; lemon should resemble
a bloomed flower.
Sprinkle seasoned salt generously inside lemons.
Pack lemons into canningjars, five per jar, covering each layer with remaining salt mixture.
@ Seal jars tight ly and refrigerate. Preserved le mons can be used after 4 wk but are best after
3- 4 mo. Store refrigerated for up to 1 y.
PROCEDURE
CD Blanch for 3 min.
o Drain.
Arrange in single layer in rigid container.
o Combine, and bring to boil.
Pour over garli c cloves.
@) Cool.
o Refrigerate for at least12 h before serving.
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
o Simmer until pearls are tender and translucent, about 20 min.
Drain.
o Combine to make brine.
Mix together brine and cooked tapioca pearl s.
@) Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yields75g
Yields200 g
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KIMCHI ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Sugar 75g 9%
Salt 22 g 2.6%
Napa cabbage head 825g 100%
with leaves attached
Garlic, finely minced 100 g 12%
Fish sauce 65g 8%
Light soy sauce 62g 7.5%
Korean chili powder 48g 6%
Scallions, minced 37g 4.5%
Ginger, finely minced 35g 4%
Carrot, julienne 30g 4%
Dried salted shrimp 7g 1%
from page 3352
WATERMELON RIND KIMCHI
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Water 500g 250%
Salt 35g 17.5%
Scallions, thinly sliced 30g 15%
Sugar 25g 12.5%
Ginger, minced 20g 10%
Garlic, minced 8g 4%
Lactic acid 6g 3%
(1.2%)*
Dried shrimp, minced 5g 2.5%
Bird's eye chilies, minced 2g 1%
Watermelon rind, peeled 200g 100%
and cut into strips 5 em /
2inwide
PROCEDURE
0) Combine salt with 30 g of sugar.
@ Rub mixture thoroughly into leaves whi le keeping cabbage head intact.
Cover, and refrigerate for 12 h.
o Drain and reserve.
Combine with remaining 45 g of sugar.
Rub mixture completely into leaves, keeping head intact.
o Cover, and store at18-24 ' c / 64-75 ' F for 24 wk to ferment. Final pH should be less
than 4.0.
To serve, cut individual leaves away from core.
PROCEDURE
0) Whisk together until salt and acid have fully dissolved, to make pickling brine.
@ Vacuum seal rind pieces with brine.
Refrigerate for12 h.
o Drain.
Refrigerate until use.
from page 5286 *(% oftotol weightofwoter)
Yields 650 g
Yields140g
NUKAZUKE Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 1 kg
Salt 200g
Rice bran (nuka) 1 kg
Ginger, cut into chunks 20g
Cabbage leaves 15g
Carrots 200g
Japanese cucumbers 200 g
(or Persian)
Radishes 100g
Salt as needed
from page 3354
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0) Combine.
20%
100%
2%
1.5%
20%
20%
10%
@ Stir until salt is completely dissolved.
Combine.
o Add soluti on from above.
Cover, and leave at room temperature for 2 wk; stir once daily.
Discard cabbage leaves and ginger; res erve rice bran mixture.
o Rub surfaces of vegetables with salt.
Place in deep crock with rice bran mi xt ure; bury vegetables completely in mixture.
@) Cover top of crock tightly with plastic wrap.
@ Store in dry place at room temperature until desired texture is achi eved, 4-24 h.
@ To serve, remove vegetables from rice bran mi xt ure, and rinse.
@ Reserve rice bran mixture, refrigerated, forfuture pickling.
PLANT FOOD S 175
SOUS VIDE CUCUMBER PICKLES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Small pickling cucumbers 300 g
White wine vinegar 350 g
Water
Sugar
Salt
Black peppercorns
150g
80g
8g
19
Caraway seeds 1 g
NovoShape PME enzyme 2 g
(optional, Novozymes
brand)
Fresh dil l sprigs 8g
from page 3353
GARLIC CONFIT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Oli ve oi l 500g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Slice to 4 mm / 'A in th ick, and res erve.
117% 0 Combine, and bring to boil.
50%
27%
2.7%
0.3%
0.3%
0.67%
(0.4%)*
Remove brine from heat, and cool.
@ Refrigerate to cool completely.
2.7% Add dill and sli ced cucumbers to chilled brine.
Vacuum seal.
(2) Refrigerate forl-2 d.
*(% of toto I weight of vi neg or ond woter)
Yields 250 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
200%
Garlic cloves, pee led 250g 100%
o Place garlic cloves and aromatics in mason jars, and
cover with oil.
Rosemary sprigs
Thyme sprigs
from page 3354
(about 35 cloves)
3g
3g
1.2%
1.2%
o Place mason jars in pressure cooke r, and pourwater
halfway up their sides.
Press u re cook at 1 bar / 15 psi (gauge)for 2 h.
@ Alternat ively,vacuumseal together, and cook sous
vide in 88 O( / 190 OF bath for 7 h.
Serve, or cool and refr igerate.
AROMATIC ALSATIAN MUSTARD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yields300 g
Pressure-cooked garlic confit has
a darker appearance and deeper
flavor than so us vide garlic confit
does. This recipe can also be
made with other typical Proven<;a l
aromat ics, such as fennel seed,
bay leaf, lavender, and sage, instead
of- or in addition to-rosemary and
thyme.
Yields245g
Yell ow mustard seeds 75g 100% 0 Blanch three times in scalding water, discarding water each time to remove bitterness.
Cider vinegar 1909
Fennel, brunoise 2.2g
Tarragon, fine ly minced 1.5g
Coriander seeds, ground 1.2 g
Salt 19
Black cardamom seeds, 0.8g
ground
Ground cinnamon O.7g
Ground cloves 0.7g
Black pepper, ground 0.5g
Bay leaf, finely minced 0.2g
from page 537
253% Combine seeds with vinegar.
Refrigerate for12 h.
2.9%
2%
1.6%
1.33%
1.1 %
0.9%
0.9%
0.7%
0.3%
@ Combine wit h soaked mustard seeds in food processor.
Puree for1 min to coarse texture.
Vacuum seal mustard.
(2) Refrigerate for at least 7 d before use.
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SAUERKRAUT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Savoy cabbage (green 2 kg
cabbage, red cabbage,
rutabaga, or turnips may
be substituted)
Salt 30 g
from page 3351
BRAISED SAUERKRAUT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 90g
Goose fat 75g
Garlic, finely minced 30g
Cabbage sauerkraut 150g
see recipe above
Vegetable stock 150g
see page 6 and page 13
Riesling (dry) 105g
Rutabaga sauerkraut 100g
see recipe above
Muscat (dry) 50g
Bay leaf 0.5g
Black peppercorns 0.2g
Juniper berries 0.15g
Cloves 0.1 g
Coriander seeds O.lg
Salt to taste
from page 539
PICKLED FIGS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Red wine vinegar 350g
Dried black figs 200g
Sugar 200g
White balsamic vinegar 195 9
Balsamic vinegar 125 g
Lemon, thinly sliced 20g
Ginger, peeled and 4g
thinly sliced
Cinnamon stick 3.5g
Star anise, crushed 1.5 g
Cardamom seeds, black 0.5g
Black peppercorns 0.2g
from page 5137
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Remove leaves, and cut out and discard their central ribs.
o Slice leaves into fine ribbons.
1. 5% Toss with cut leaves.
o Pack salted leaves in crock or other deep, opaque container.
Yields 600 g
Cover mouth of container with cheesecloth, and top with clean rock or other heavy, sanitized
object.
Store at 18-24 C/ 64- 75 OF for 2- 4 wk, or unt il pH is below4.0. Cabbage must become fully
submerged in its own juices. This should occur by the third day; if not, add 1% salt brine to
cover.
o Vacuum seal, and refrigerate sauerkraut with brine until needed.
SCALING PROCEDURE
60%
50%
20%
100%
100%
70%
66.7%
33.3%
CD Saute together, without allowing onions to color, until very tender, about 25 min.
o Add to onion mixture.
Cook until cabbage is very tender and liquid is reduced by half, about 30 min.
o Combine in sachet.
Yields480 g
0.33%
0.13%
0.1%
0.07%
0.07%
Add sachet to onion and cabbage mixture, and continue to cook until most of liquid has
evaporated, about25 min.
Remove sachet.
o Season sauerkraut.
SCALING PROCEDURE
175% CD Vacuum seal together.
100% 0 Cook sous vide in 80 c / 176 OF bath for 4 h.
100% Cool completely.
97.5% 0 Refrigerate until use.
62.5%
10%
2%
1. 75%
0.75%
0.25%
0.1 %
PLANT FOODS
Yields400 g
177
COMPRESSED DILL-PICKLED VEGETABLES Yields 300 g
INGREDIENT
Red bell peppers,
seeded and peeled
Cucumbers
QUANTITY
100 g
175g
Hon-shimeji mushrooms, 100 g
caps only
Water
Salt
100g
2g
Red pearl onions, peeled 150 g
White wine vinegar 300g
Distilled water 150g
Sugar 50g
Dill 8.5g
Salt 7.5g
Black peppercorns 1. 5g
Caraway seeds 1.5g
from page 558
SCALING PROCEDURE
33% CD Cut into fine julienne.
58%
33%
33%
0.67%
50%
100%
50%
16.7%
2.8%
2.5%
0.5%
0.5%
(3) Peel and sli ce on diagonall mm /}{. in thick with mandoline. Yield is aboutlOO g.
Bringwater and salt to boil.
o Blanch mushrooms for 2 min.
Shock in ice-water bath.
@ Drai n and reserve.
(2) Cut in half lengthwise.
Vacuum seal.
Blanch in 95C / 200 OF bath for 4 min.
@ Separate into petals, and reserve.
@ Combin e, and bring to boil to make pickling brine.
@ Pour approximately 100 g of brine over each vegetable: be ll peppers, cucumbers, mushrooms,
and onions.
@ Cool vegetables completely.
<8 Serve, orvacuum seal separately and refrigerate.
PICKLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Yields280 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Champagne vinegar 150g
Sugar 30g
Salt 5g
Jerusalem artichokes, 100g
peeled and cut into
0.5 cm / y.. in cubes
from page 5131
PICKLED RAMPS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 200g
White wine vinegar 200g
Sugar 80g
Salt 12g
Yellow mustard seeds 3g
Black peppercorns 2.5 g
Coriander seeds 1.5g
Bay leaf 0.5g
Ramp bulbs, cleaned 450g
from page 5118
178
SCALING
100%
20%
3.3%
67%
SCALING
100%
100%
40%
6%
1.5%
1.25%
0.75%
0.25%
225%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine to make pickling brine.
(3) Vacuum seal with brine, and refrigerate.
PROCEDURE
CD Combine and bring to simmer.
(3) Pour warm brine over bulbs.
Cool mixture.
o Vacuum seal.
Refrige rate for at least12 h.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yields450g
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PICKLED LEMON
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Lemons 100g
Water 100g
White wine vinegar 50g
Sugar 25g
from page 5275
PICKLED CELERY ROOT
INGREDIENT
Celery juice, clarified
White wine vinegar
Sugar
Salt
Celery root, peeled and
thinly sliced
Black peppercorns
QUANTITY
125 g
(from 250 g
celery)
100g
30g
5g
100g
19
Coriander seeds, toasted 0 .5 g
from page 5133
SCALING
100%
100%
50%
25%
SCALING
125%
100%
30%
5%
100%
1%
0.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Slice 1 mm IX, in thick.
@) Place in rigid container and rese rve.
Combine to make brine.
@ Bring to simmer to dissolve sugar.
Pour warm brine over lemon s li ces.
Cool.
(7) Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
PROCEDURE
CD Combine to make brine.
@) Vacuum seal with brine.
Refrigerate until use.
Yields125 g
Yields350 g
TOMATO CONFIT ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tomatoes 1 kg
Glycerol 20g
Water 20g
Extra virgin olive oil 40g
Garlic, thinly sliced 15g
Thyme leaves 4g
Bay leaves, finely sliced 19
Salt 2g
Sugar 2g
from page 562
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Core tomatoes.
2%
2%
4%
1. 5%
0.4%
0.1 %
0.2%
0 .2%
@) Cut small X in blossom end of each tomato.
Blanch until skin begins to lift at X, about10 s.
@ Shock in ice-water bath for 2 min. Pee l off skins.
Cut in halfverticall y, and scoop out seeds.
Pat dry.
(7) Place cut side down on baking sheet lined with si li cone mat, and reserve.
Combine.
Brush evenly on tomatces.
@ Brush evenly on tomatoes.
@ Sprinkl e equall y and evenly over tomatoes.
@ Season tomatoes evenly.
@ DryinllO ' C/ 225 ' Fovenforabout1 h.
e Turn tomatoes over, reduce heat to 95 'C I 200 ' F, and dry until deep red and shriveled, 3-4 h.
Cool.
@ Discard dried herbs from tomatoes.
@ Vacuum seal tomatoes with their cooking oil s.
@ Refrige rate until use .
PLANT fOODS 179
./
"/
PICKLED BING CHERRY
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Bing cherries SOOg 100%
Red wine vi negar 26Sg S3%
Sour cherry juice lS0 g 30%
(store-bought)
Sugar BOg 26%
Water BOg 26%
from page S268
GREEN PAPAYA PICKLE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Papaya (semiripe), peeled 22Sg 90%
Cane vinegar 2S0 g 100%
Red onions, finely minced 7sg 30%
Black mustard seeds 2sg 10 %
Garlic, fi nely minced 8g 3%
Ginger, finely minced 8g 3%
Bird's eye chili, 1.Sg O.S%
finely minced
Neutral oil 20g 8%
Sugar 40g 16%
Green chi li, minced Sg 2%
Salt Sg 2%
Turme ric (fresh), grated 4.sg l. 8%
from page 597
PICKLED BUTTERNUT SQUASH
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY SCALING
Black peppercorns 3g 3%
Coriander seeds, toasted 3 g 3%
Star ani se, li ghtl y crushed 3 g 3%
Orange zest, grated 2.Sg 2.5%
Dried bitter orange peel 1.s g l.s%
Saffron threads O.lg 0.1%
White wine vinegar BOg 130%
Water 80g 80%
Sugar 30g 30%
Salt 19 1%
Butte rnut squash, 100g 100%
brunoise
from page S64
l ll()
PROCEDURE
CD Arrange in single layer in rigid plastic contai ner that fits in vacuum seale r chamber.
o Bring remaining ingredients to bo il to make brin e.
Pour brine over cherri es, and cool at room temperat ure.
o Pull fu ll vacuu m three t imes on cooled cherries.
Yields 650 g
Vacuum sea l and refrigerate unt il use. Both cherri es and their pickling brine are delicious and
versatile acidifi ers for d ressings and sauces.
Yields3S0 g
PROCEDURE
CD Juli enne and reserve.
o Reserve lS0 g of vinegar.
Combine 100 g of vinegar with remaining ingredients, and grind to coarse paste.
o Fry paste over medium heat, st irring constantly, unt il aro matic but not colored, about10 min.
Add to cooked paste wit h reserved 150 g of vinegar .
@) Fold jul ien ned papaya into warm paste.
(2) Simmerfor2 min.
Cool completely, vacuum seal, and refrigerate unti l us e.
PROCEDURE
CD Combi ne in sachet.
o Combine, and bring to boil.
Remove from heat, and add sachet.
o Infuse for 3 min, discard sachet.
Place sq uash in container.
@) Pour hot brine over squash.
Yields 100 g
(2) Place open container in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum several times to infuse squash
thoro ughl y.
Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

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CRISPY DOSA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Jasmine rice 400g
Whole black gram 200 g
(urad dal)
Flattened rice flakes 25g
(poha)
Water 850 g
Water 100 g
Coconut (fresh), grated 30g
Salt 109
lactic acid 2.5g
Ghee as needed
see page 4213
Masala curry sauce 80g
see page 225
Sous vide cooked 120 g
potatoes, cubed
Coconut chutney foam 150 g
see page 325
Puffed lenti ls 80g
see page342
from page 3355
Yields 800 g (12 dosas)
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Soak toget her in water at room te mperature for about 3 h.
50% 0 Drai n.
6.25%
212.5%
25%
7.5%
2.5%
0.63%
20%
30%
37.5%
20%
Combine wi th soaked grains and soaking liquid, and grind until smooth and fluffy.
@) Add up to 100 g more water, as necessary, to achieve thin pancake-batter consiste ncy.
Measure 500 g of batte r, a nd ferment in covered containe r at room temperature for 2 h.
Refrigerate remaining batter.
Add to batter, and continue to ferment fo r 30 min.
0) Bring nonstick skillet or griddl e to medium heat.
ladle batter onto ski ll et. Use an outward spira l motion to spread eve nl y.
@) Drizzle 5 ml / 1 ts p of butter a round edges of each dosa.
@ Cook unti l crispy and golden on bottom.
@ Combine potatoes and masala sauce; warm through.
@) Warm foam in 60 ' C / 140 ' F bat h for 20 min.
@ Fi ll dosas wit h potatoes, foa m, and puffed lentil s; serve on side.
YUZU AND KUMQUAT MARMALADE Yi elds475 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fructose 100 g
High-methoxyl pectin (Brown 2.5 g
Ribbon HV, Obipektin brand)
Salt 1.5 g
Yuzu juice (fresh or bottl ed) 55 g
Kumquats, qua rtered 250 g
Mandarin juice, 70 g
freeze-concentrated
see page 2337
Guargum 0.28g
Xanthangum 0.2 g
Citric acid 2g
Yuzu juice, from above 5g
from page 3356
40%
1%
0.6%
22%
100%
28%
0.11%
(O.2%)*
0.08%
(0.76%)*
CD Dry blend.
o Reserve 5 g of juice.
Ble nd powde r mi xt ure with remaining 50 g.
@) Bringjuice to boil to make syrup.
Remove from heat, and cool compl etely.
Blanch once in boiling water, and cool compl ete ly.
0) Combine wi th cooled yuzu syrup.
Vacuum seal togethe r.
@) Cook sous vide in 80 ' C/ 176 ' F bath until very tender, about 4 h.
@ Re move from bag to cool compl etely, and rese rve.
@ Combine, and hand-bl e nd until gums are compl ete ly incorporated.
@) Fold into cooled marmalade base.
0. 8% @ Whisk into marmalade.
2% @ Add to marmalade, and refri ge rate.
*(% of toto I weightofyuzu and mandarin juices)
PLANT fOODS
181
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ENZYME-TREATED PINK GRAPEFRUIT
Yields 250 g
---
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INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
---
Pink grapefruit, peeled 300g 30% CD Separate carefully into segments, leaving membranes intact, and reserve.
l....
-- Water 1 kg 100% o Combine, and transfer to sani tized jar. l...
Pectinex Ultra SP-L 2g 0.2% Add grapefruit segments.
-- L..
(Novozymes brand)
o Seal jar. ,-
Pectinex Smash XXL 1 g 0.1%
Refrigerate for 12 h to soak.
L.
(Novozymes brand)
Remove treated segments from water.
-
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(2) Brush away any undissolved grapefrui t membrane.
-- from page 3357
.L.
--
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-
Best Bets for Preservation
L
-
Ingredient Vinegar pickle Salt pickle Fermented pickle Sugar preserve
L
apple v' v' v'
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apricot v' v'
-
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bean sprout v' v' ./
- beet ./ ./
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bell pepper ./ ./ ./
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cabbage ./ ./ ./
-
carrot ./ ./ v' ./
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cauliflower ./ ./ ./
"-
cherry ./ ./ ./
-
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chili ./ ./ ./ v'
-
citrus ./ ./ v'
~
- coconut, young v' v'
""-
cucumber ./ v' v'
-
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eggplant v' v'
~
fig v' v' "-
-
garlic v' v' v' v'
"-
grape v' v'
-
"-
green bean v' ./ ./
-
Iychee v' v' "-
-
mango, green v'
"-
melon v' v' v' v'
-
mustard seeds v' v'
"-
v'
- mushroom v' v' v' "-
okra v' v'
-
"-
olive ./ v' v'
--
onion ./ ./ ./
'-
papaya, green v' v' v' C-
peach ./ v'
--
"-
pear v' v'
--
pineapple v' v'
-
radish v' v' v'
--
-
rhubarb v' v' v'
e::-
rutabaga v' v'
seaweed ./ ./ ./
t:-
tomato v' ./ t:::-
turnip v' ./ ./
t:::-
zucchini v' v'
from page 334B
t::-
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182 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
~
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--
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--
HEAT-TREATED FRUIT
CD The table at right suggests a number offruits forwhi ch this process works
well. Make certain the water bath has reached the temperature indicated
before you drop the fruits in whole.
@) Stir gently and submerge the fruits if necessary. If you remove them after
the time indicated and dry them thoroughly, you can expect their shelf
life to increase by half or more, as noted in the table.
SMOKED PLANT FOODS
CD Select and prepare the ingredient. The table below offers a number of
good options.
@) Load the wood mixture into the smoker. Do not soak the wood chips
first, because that results in acidic smoke (see page 2140).
Best Bets for Heat-Treated Fruit
Fruit
blueberry
citrus,
segments
grape
melon
pear
strawberry
tomato
from page 3359
-:--:-_W_a.,.-r--:m_b_a--:th----:---:-_ S he If life,
(oe) (oF) (min) untreated
60 140 V2 7
60 140 20 6
55 5
50 122 60 12
45 113 40 10
60 140 1,4 9
60 7
Shelf life after
treatment
20
11
25
15
15
12
10
Set the smoker temperature and relative humidity to the values
indicated. For smokers without temperature or humidity controls, place
a pan of water on the bottom rack of the smoker, and use a wet-bulb
thermometer to monitor the wet-bulb temperature.
@ Smoke for the time indicated in the table.
""'" Best Bets for Smoked Plant Foods
--
-
-
-
Ingredient
apple
asparagus
corn, on the cob
eggplant
fresh pasta
olive oil (or other
oils and fats)
onion,
cooked sous vide
pecan
pineapple
Wood
apple
cherry
oak
maple
Dry-bulb
temp.
(scaling) (Oe) (OF)
100% 65 149
100% 7 45
100% 10 50
25%
hickory 100% 65 149
oak 100%
nectarine 33%
oak 100%
nectarine 33%
oak
maple
apple
oak
maple
100%
25%
100%
100%
25%
10 50
10 50
65 149
65 149
10 50
pine nut hickory 100% 30 86
potato, oak 100% 10 50
cooked sous vide nectarine 33%
rice oak 100% 10 50
nectarine 33%
Smoke
Wet-bulb
temp.
(Oe) n)
46 114
4 39
3 37
46 114
3 37
3 37
54 129
46 114
3 37
21 70
3 37
3 37
Relative
humidity Time
(h)
40 24
80 24
60 24
40 6
60 24
60 12
60 24
40 6
60 24
60 4
60 24
60 24
soy sauce, dark oak 100% 50 122 40 104 60 24
nectarine 33%
soy sauce, white oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 24
nectarine 33%
watermelon hickory 100% 65 149 46 114 40 2
from page 3362
PLANT FOODS
Note or example use
serve plain, or in tarte tatin
saute quickly
cook so us vide, and baste with smoked
butter and pimenton
baba ghanouj, moussaka
pasta carbonara
vinaigrette, brushed on grill ed bread
See page
cook sous vide, and finish in a roasting 139
pan with bacon-infused butter
briefly roast, and toss with pecan oil, salt
briefly gril l, and brush with lime
and vani ll a syrup
pesto
cook sous vide with 2 g (1 % total weight next, 5193
of potatoes) of hi gh-quality liquid smoke
mixed into the butter
paella valenciana 5239
shiro dashi or miso soup
spot prawn tempura 164
dessert for a barbecue
183
SMOKED POTATOES WITH VIN JAUNE SABAYON
ADAPTED fROM ALA I N PASSARD
Yields 625 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Ratte fingerli ng potatoes, 100 g
peeled
Baby Yukon gold 100 g
potatoes, peeled
Unsalted butter, melted
Vinj aune
Shall ots, fine ly minced
White vegetable stock
see page 6 and page 13
Eggyolks
Heavy cream
Lemonjuice
Salt
Roasted hazelnut oil
Toasted haze lnuts,
quartered
Ginger, fine ly diced
Chi ves, finely minced
Salt
from page 3363
50g
75g
50g
200g
156g
40g
5g
to taste
20g
20g
7g
to taste
to taste
SMOKED POTATO CON FIT
INGREDIENT
Yukon Gold potatoes,
hot-smoked
see pagelS3
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
from page 5195
184
QUANTITY
200g
(four potatoes)
50g
1. 5g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
100%
50%
75%
50%
200%
156%
40%
5%
20%
20%
7%
SCALING
100%
50%
1. 5%
CD Vacuum seal together.
Cook sous vide in 90 C / 194 OF bath for1 h.
o Remove potatoes from bag.
@) Cold-smoke cooked potatoes at 10 c / 50 OF for 24 h,
or hot-smoke in stove-top smoker for 30 min.
Cool.
Vacuum seal potatoes with butter.
o Combine yin jaune with shall ots.
Reduce to syrup.
Strain, and measure 109 of yin jaune reduction.
@ Blend together fully with vin jaune reduction.
@ Cook mixture sous vide in 70 C / 158 OF bath for
35 min.
@ Transfer sabayon to 1 I siphon, and charge with two
cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@ Kee p siphon warm in 62 C/ 144 OF bath unti l ready to
use.
@ Warm sealed potatoes in same bath used for sabayon
for 10 min.
@ Remove potatoes from bath and bag; divide equall y
among four bowls.
@ Dispense warm sabayon around potatoes.
@ Garnish potatoes.
PROCEDURE
If smoking is not an option, vacuum
seal raw potatoes with a mixture
of water and good-quali ty li quid
smoke in step 1. Use 2 g of li quid
smoke for every 100 g of water,
and include enough smoke-water
mixture to equal the weight ofthe
potatoes.
Yields250 g
CD Cut out 3 cm by 6 cm / 1'A in by 2'A in cylinders using ring cutter.
Vacuum seal together.
o Heat potatoes in 70 C/ 158 OF bath.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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DEHYDRATED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
CD Choose a product. Use the table below to select the de hyd rated fo rm
you wish to make, cross-referenced with the kind of produce you are
using.
o Combine slices, puree, jui ce, or foam with other ingredients.
Select a texture. The table on the next page presents our
recomme ndations for chips, papers, leathers, glasses, and wafers.
Ass ign a scali ng value of100% to the fruit or vegetable pre parat ion,
and weigh the other ingredi e nts proportionally. For exampl e, use 0.8 g
agar and 2. 5 g of glycerol for every 100 g of raspberry puree to make
a Aexibl e raspberry leather.
Prepare the fruit or vegetable as indicated in the table.
Best Bets for Dehydration
Chips Papers
Ingredient (thin slices) (purees)
apple
.; .;
apricot
.; .;
beet
.; .;
cabbage
.;
cauliflower
.;
citrus
.;
corn
.;
flower petals
.;
leek
.; .;
mango
.; .;
mushroom
.; .;
onion
.; .;
passion fruit
.;
pear
.; .;
persimmon
.; .;
pineapple
.;
raspberry
.;
spinach
.; .;
squash
.; .;
strawberry
.; .;
from page 3366
GARLIC NOUGATINE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Glucose syrup DE 40 100 g 100%
Iso malt powder 100 g 100%
Unsalted butter, softened 100 g 100%
All-purpose flour s Og 50%
Garlic, brunoise sOg 50%
and blanched
Marcona almonds, sOg 50%
brunoise
Salt 4.sg 4.5%
from page 529
Dehydrate by using the tempe rature and time listed.
Leathers Glasses Wafers
(purees) (purees and juices) (purees and juices)
.; .; .;
.; .; .;
.; .; .;
.;
.;
.; .;
.; .; .;
.;
.;
.;
.; .;
.; .;
PROCEDURE
CD Mix together.
Spread onto si li cone baking mat in one layer, 1 mm / X6 in thi ck.
Cover with second si li cone baking mat.
o Bake in 200 C / 390 OF ove n unti l golden and soft, about 5 min.
. Yields 400 g
Pass ro lling pin several times over top baking mat, whil e nougatine is still hot, to make as thin
as possibl e.
@) Warm in oven.
(2) Cut into desired dimensions while still hot.
Store in airtight containe r, ideall y with sili ca gel packet.
PLANT FOODS
185
-
'-
-
'-
-
'-
.-
'-
Formulas for Dehydrating Produce
Dehydrate
-
"-.
.-
Product Texture Preparation Ingredients (scaling) * (oC) (oF) (h)
chips very dust over sli ced fruit or trehalose or isomalt, fine 100% 50 120 8
\....
~
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crisp vegetable powder
crisp make syrup and brush isomalt 100% 50 120 12
~
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onto sli ces water 65%
'-
crisp whisk until dissolved, egg white 100% 50 120 7
~
......
rest at room temperature
gum arabic 50%
about 20 min, and brush
-
'-
mixture onto produce
C
crisp soak slices for 20 min water 50% 55 130 5
maltodextrin DE19 100%
~
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.--
chewy soak slices for 2 h glycerol 30% 60 140 12 "-
water 40%
.--
'-
sugar or trehalose 100%
- '-
papers moist, spread mixture into methylcell ul ose E4M 1.5% 55 130 6
~
chewy paper-thin layer (Dow brand) '--
dry, glucose syrup DE 40 5.0% 55 130 7
-'-
flexible
low-acyl gell an 0.7%
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
'--
dry, N-Zorbit M 20% 55 130 3
\0-
brittle (National Starch brand)
"-
leathers tender spread mixture into layer vegetable oil 5% 55 130 8
chewy
1 mm / 1f,6 in thick
Ultratex 8 3.0% 60 140 5
\....
(National Starch brand) \....
xanthan gum 0.3%
\..
chewy agar 0.8% 60 140 5 ,-
sorbi tol 2.5%
\...
glasses crisp spread mixture into layer glucose syrup DE40 2% 60 140 36 \....
1 mm / 1f,6 in thick
isomalt 10%
\...
icing sugar 18%
britt le simmer mixture for 4 min, Pure Cote B790 12.5% 60 140 15-18
\....
and then spread i nto layer \....
1 mm / 1f,6 in thick
\....
wafers crisp whip mixture into stiff egg white 18% 50 130 12
-
and airy foam, and then spread into xant han gum 1%
\...
crunchy
layer 3 mm / VB in thick
xant han gum 0.50% 55 130 12 -
\....
and airy
160 Bloom gelatin 1.25%
\....
from page 3-367 *(set weight offruit or vegetable to 100%)
-
"'--
-
'--
GREEN PEA WAFER
Yields250 g
-
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
""-
Green pea puree 400g 100% 0) Blend to fine puree.
-
......
see page 55
(from 750 g
Pass through fine sieve.
offrozen
-
---
sweet peas)
-
Eggwhites 75g 18.5% Whi sk together into puree until light and fluffy in texture.
-
Xanthangum 4.75g 1% @ Cast puree evenly into nonstick mold in layer 0.5 cm / y., in thick.
Dehydrate at 57 C / 135 OF unti l crisp, 2 h or longer. t:-
@) Cut into rectangles.
from page 3371
~
~
~
186 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
~
CRYSTALLIZED ROSE PETALS
Yields30 g
INGREDIENT
Rose petals (organic)
Egg whites
Gum arabic
Sugar, isomalt, or
trehalose
from page 3368
QUANTITY
50g
50 g
25g
100g
N-Zorbit, a modified starch (see
page 434), dries to create a crisp
glassy film.
The addition of oil provides
tenderness to the leather. Our
favorite texture uses a scaling of3%
of the total puree weight. You can
go up to 4.5% for even more tender-
ness. This recipe can be adapted to
any fruit or vegetable puree.
For more on freeze-dried ingredients,
see page 2444.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% Q) Separate petals, and reserve.
100% (3) Whisk together unt il gum arabic is fully dissolved.
50% Rest at room tempe rature until bubbles have dissipated, about 20 min.
@) Brush mixture onto each petal to coat compl etely.
200% Dredge petals.
Place on dehydrator tray or parchment paper-lined baking sheet.
o Dry at45 O( I llS of until dry and cri sp, for 8-12 h.
SPINACH PAPER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Spinach puree 100 g
see page 55 and page 144
Salt to taste
N-Zorbit M 20 g
(National Starch brand)
from page 3-369
MANDARIN LEATHER
INGREDIENT
Mandarins, quartered
and seeds removed
Water
Sugar
Limejuice
Koshersalt
Grapeseed oil or other
neutral oil
from page 3369
QUANTITY
200g
150g
75g
109
0.5g
9g
Yields 70 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Season puree.
20% (3) Whisk into puree.
SCALING
100%
75%
37.5%
5%
0.25%
4.5%
(3%)*
Spread mixture thinly on silicone mat.
@) Dehydrate at 60 O( I 145 OF until crisp, 25- 45 min.
Yields200 g
PROCEDURE
CD Combine in pressure cooker.
(3) Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for
45 min.
Blend fully to puree.
@) Strain through fine sieve.
Cool puree, and measure 300 g.
Blend togetherfullywith puree.
o Spread seasoned puree in layer 3 mm I Ys in thick on
cellulose acetate sheet, 15 cm by 30 cm I 6 in by12 in.
Place sheet on dehydrator tray.
Dehydrate puree at 35 O( I 95 OF until leathery,
about 8 h.
*(% of tot 01 mandarin puree weight)
PINEAPPLE GLASS ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ
Yields200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pineapple, juiced 275g
see page 2338
Fructose 7g
Malicacid 2g
Salt 2g
Saffron threads 0.25g
Pure-Cote B790 (GPC 35.5g
brand)
from page 3370
SCALING
100%
2.5%
0.7%
0.7%
0.1%
13%
PROCEDURE
CD Strain through fine sieve.
(3) Combine with strained jui ce.
Bring to boil over medium heat, and re move immediately.
@) Add to warm juice, cover, and steep for 5 min.
Strain.
Blend with jui ce mixture on hi gh speed for about2 min. Simmer for15 min.
o Pour liquid onto center of cellulose acetate sheet.
Form sheet into U shape, and allow liquid to coat sheet evenly.
Lay sheet on flat surface, and rest at room temperature until dry, 12- 15 h.
@ Peel glass offin single piece.
PLANT FOODS 187
FREEZE-DRIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
CD Prepare the ingredients. The table below lists our recommendations.
(3) Arrange in a single layer on a tray.
Freeze-dryforthe time indicated. Temperature and pressure settings for primary and
secondary drying are given in chapter10 on The Modernist Kitchen on page 2450.
Best Bets for Freeze-Drying Plant Foods
Ingredient Preparation
apples peeled
bananas peeled
butternut peeled
squash
carrots peeled and sliced,
then blanched for 30 s
chives, mint, and
other herbs
corn, kernels
grapes perforated with needle
lettuce
mushrooms
onions cooked until tender
piquillo peppers blanched, peeled
raspberries
strawberries
tomatoes peeled, cored
from page 3372
ONION SABLE
INGREDIENT
Unsalted butter
Sweet onions, thinly sli ced
All-purpose flour
Onion butter, from above
Almond powder
Isomalt
Eggyolk, cooked sous vide in 65 ' C / 149 ' F bath for
7min
Cornstarch
Freeze-dried onion powder
see page 189
Salt
Heavy cream
Baking powder
from page 5263
Cut
(mm) (in)
2 1;\6
3
Va
2 )-16
VJ2
whole leaves
whole
whole
whole leaves
}S2
2 1;\6
quartered
whole
2 )-16
thinly sli ced
QUANTITY
sOOg
200g
112.5 g
100g
sOg
sOg
2sg
12.sg
8g
4.5g
3.3 g
1.5 g
Dry
(h)
24
48
36
12
12
36
48
24
12
12
36
24
24
24
Typical use See page
whole; grind into a fine powder, and use to enhance apple
recipes
whole; grind into a fine powder, and add to
Thai spice mix or to musta rd base
grind into a fine powder, and add to fresh butternut squash
puree to deepen the flavor and thicken
instant ramen
gr ind into a fine powder for seasoning
whole; grind into a fine powder a nd use in Modernist
breading, add to corn bread recipes or broths
whole; pickled; add to pastry recipes; infuse into broths
caesar salad
infuse into stocks and broths; rehydrate to make a puree;
gr ind into a fine powderfor breading
61
209
189
514
grind into a fine powder, and add to savory pastry 189
gr ind into a fine powder, and add to spice blends 217
whole; grind into a powder, and add to pastry or infuse into
vinegar
whole; grind into a fine powder for seasoning and breading 33
whole; infuse into oils; grind into a fine powder, and add to 49
sauces and spice blends
Yields350 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
500% CD Simmer over low heat for 2 h to infuse butter with onion flavor,
200% being careful not to brown onions.
112.5%
100%
50%
50%
25%
12.5%
8%
4.5%
3.3%
1.5%
(3) Strain butter, and reserve onions for other use.
Measure 100 g of onion broth for making dough.
o Mix to form dough, and rest dough for 20 min at room temp.
Rollout dough in layer1 mm /)116 in thick.
Place on nonstick baking sheet.
(2) Bake in 175 ' C / 350 ' F oven until lightly golden, for11 min.
Cut into 3 cm by 8 cm / 1'/1 in by 3'/1 in rectangles while still warm.
Cool completely.
@ Reserve in cool, dry place.
1 R R
VOLUME 6 . KI TCHEN MANUAL
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SEARED STRAWBERRY
INGREDIENT
Strawberries, halved
le ngthwise
Freeze-dried strawberry
powder
see page l 88
Grapeseed oil
Oloroso sherry vi negar
Salt
from page S279
CAESAR SALAD
INGREDIENT
QUANTITY
60 g
(two berri es)
12 g
as needed
5g
to taste
QUANTITY
Egg yolk powder, freeze- 12 g
dried
. see page 5250
Acetic acid
Salt
Black peppercorns,
finely ground
7g
7g
3g
Anchovy powder, freeze- 2 g
dried
N-ZorbitM 20g
(National Starch brand)
Extra-virgi n olive oil 40 g
Romaine lettuce, freeze- 50 g
dri ed
Basil leaves (small), 8 g
mi crowave-fried
Chives, cut into 1 cm / 8 g
:y. in batons and freeze-
dri ed
Parsley, microwave-fried 4 g
see page lS?
Parmesan nuggets 20 g
see page 206
Salt-cured anchovi es, 16 g
freeze-dried
Brioche, cut into 1 mm / 12 g
y" in sli ces and dehydrated
from page 3373
Yi elds 100 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Coat halved strawberries wit h thi n dusti ng of strawberry powder, and t hen sear in oil over hi gh
heat until charred, about 45 s.
20%
8.5% (3) Season.
SCALING PROCEDURE
24% CD Dry blend powders.
14%
14%
6%
4%
40%
(50%)*
80%
100%
16%
16%
8%
40%
32%
24%
(3) Whisk into powder mi xt ure until fu ll y incorporated.
Toss greens togethe r wit h dressing.
@) Arrange salad on plate.
Garnish sa lad.
*(% of weight of olive oil)
Yi elds200g
FREEZE-DRIED ONION POWDER
Yields40 g
INGREDIENT
Sweet onions, thinly
sliced
Ne utral oil
Water
fro m page 3373
QUANTITY
350 g
as needed
100 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Saute in nonsti ck pan over low heat until translucent and tender, about 15 min.
28.5% (3) Deglaze as needed to prevent any browning.
Cool at room tempe rat ure.
@) Freeze-dry for 12 h.
Grind into powder.
@ Store in cool, dry place.
PLANT FOODS
189
SHRIMP AND GRITS INSPIRED BY SEAN BROCK
Yields 750 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Bacon, thinly sliced
Water
Bacon broth, from above
Sucrose esters
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Whey protein isolate
Eggs
Drie d corn kernels or
hominy
Liquid nitrogen
Water, shellfish stock, or
vegetable stock
see page 6 and page 9
Spot prawn or shrimp
tails, peeled
Liquid nitrogen
Mascarpone
Salt
Red-eye gravy
see page 225
from page 3377
190
QUANTITY
100 g
100g
100 g
2.4g
1.5 g
four large
200g
as needed
1 kg
150 g
as needed
80g
to taste
BOg
SCALING PROCEDURE
50% CD Vacuum seal together.
50% 0 Cook so us vide in 88 ' C / 190 ' F bath for 2 h.
Strain bacon broth, and cool.
50%
1.2%
0.75%
100%
500%
75%
40%
40%
@ Discard resulting layer offat, and measure 100 g of broth.
Blend sucrose esters and whey protein isolate into broth, a nd reserve.
Cook in shells in 65 ' C/ 149 ' F bath for35 min.
o Dip dried corn in liquid nitrogen until frozen.
Blend frozen corn on hi gh power until coarse textu re is achi eved.
Pass through coarse sieve to remove any unground pieces.
@ Combine with cornmeal from above, and cook over medium heat for about 40 min;
stir constantly until mixture softens and forms grits.
@ Dip prawns in liquid nitrogen until frozen.
@ Blend frozen prawns on hi gh power until fine powder is achi eved.
@ Fo ld into warm grits.
@ Warm bacon broth, and whip with foamingwand.
@ Fold into grits, and reheat to make sure grits are warm.
@ Season grits, and portion into four bowls.
@ Place peel ed, cooked egg in center of each bowl.
@ Pour gravy over eggs and grits.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MA NUA L
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PASTA
o Mix dry ingredients, texturing agent, and salt.
@) Whisk in liqui ds.
Knead, or blend unti l dough is elastic, 5-10 min.
o Roll out, and cut to desired shape.
@) Dry (optional). See page 2430 for dehydrating strategi es.
iii Best Bets for Pasta Doughs
-
To make sodium carbonate for the alkaline ramen recipe in the table below, place some
sodium bicarbonate in a shall ow pan, and bake it in a 150 "C I 300 "F oven for1 h.
Salt
....."
-
Pasta Dry ingredient (scaling) (scal i ng) liquid (scal ing) Dry (scal ing) Texturing agent
wheat 00 wheat flour
buckwheat buckwheat flour, sifted
all-purpose unbl eached
wheat flour
-.
-
semolina all-purpose bl eached
wheat flour
semolina flour
-
cocoa tajarin 00 wheat flour
semolina flour
cocoa powder
-..
-
rice flour rice flour
,.
tapioca starch
-
-..
glutinous rice flour
alkaline ramen bread flour
-.
-
..,. from page 3381
-
,.,
-
-.
-
-.
-
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-
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HERB-EMBEDDED PASTA VEil
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
All-purpose unbleached 210g
wheat flour
Water 50g
Eggyolks 28g
Canol a oil 7.2g
Toasted sesame oil 7.2g
Gluten flour 2.5g
Salt 19
Cil antro, di ll or other as desired
small -leaved herbs
from page 3-383
100%
100%
50%
25%
100%
100%
65%
44%
100%
50%
50%
100%
SCALING
100%
24%
13.5%
3.5%
3.5%
1.2%
(1%)*
0.5%
xanthan gum 1% 2.5%
Activa RM 4% 1.75%
albumin powder 2% 1.3%
vital gluten 4% 1. 5%
konjacgum 10% 2.5%
sodium carbonate 0.9% 1.5%
potassium carbonate 0.1%
PROCEDURE
o Combine to form smooth dough.
@) Knead for 12 min.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for12 h.
o Roll dough to 1 mm IX. in thick.
water
egg yolk
neutral or olive oi l
milk
eggyolks
olive oil
water
white wine
egg yolks
water
olive oil
water
water
@) Divide into two sheets of equal length and width.
@) l ay herbs individually on first sheet, and cover with second sheet.
(2) Roll layered dough to 1 mm / X. in thick .
9% no
56.7%
10.7%
75% optional
37.5%
20%
35% yes
7%
117% no
27%
22.5%
160% yes
37.5% no
Yields300 g
Transfer to flour-dusted, parchment paper-lined tray, and cover with damp cloth.
Refrigerate until needed.
*(% of total weight of all other ingredients)
PLANT FOOD S 191
SPAGHETTI CARBONARA I NSP I RED BY J EAN-fRAN <;: O IS P I EGE Yields 1.5 kg (about 30 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whipping cream 200g
Bacon, t hinly sliced 90g
Parmesan, grated 20g
Garl ic, t hi nly sli ced and 15g
blanched
Water lkg
Dry spaghetti 100g
Salt 20g
Sodiu m citrate 2.3 g
Low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel 0.6 g
f, CP Kelco brand)
High-acyl gell an (Kelcogel 0.3 g
LTlOO, CP Kelco brand)
Whole mil k 100 g
Parmesan cheese, finely 130 g
grated
Egg yolks, blended 50g
Chives, fin ely mi nced
109
from page 3384
SCALING PROCEDURE
200% CD Combine, and vacuum seal.
90% 0 Cook sous vide in 88 C / 190 OF bath for 2 h.
10% Strain cream, and reserve warm.
7.5%
1,000%
100%
20%
2.3%
0.6%
(0.26%)*
0.3%
(0.73%)*
100%
130%
50%
20%
@) Boi l spaghetti in salted water unti l al dente, about 8 min.
Transfer spaghetti to bacon cream, stirring to coat evenly.
Arrange pasta strands straight and pressed against each other on sheet of plastic wrap.
(!) Refrigerate coated strands unti l set, about 2 h.
Dryblend.
Disperse powder blend in mi lk and bringto simmer.
@) Shear cheese into simmering mil k.
@ Cast into nonstick mold in layer 1 cm / Yo in th ick.
Cool, and refrigerate unti l set, about 5 min.
Cut set gel in strips measuring 5 cm by 10 cm / 2 in by 4 in.
@ Place strips over cold spaghett i ribbons.
@ Roll spaghetti with cheese strips into tight parce ls.
@ Vacuum sea l.
@ Cook sous vide in 68 C/ 154 of bath for35 min to form flu id gel.
@ Pass fluid yo lk mi xt ure through sieve.
@ Transfer to squeeze bottle with 5 mm / ',4 in diameter tip.
@) Steam spaghetti parcels unti l warmed through, about 4 min.
@ Pipe stripe of egg yo lk flu id gel across each spaghetti parcel.
Garnish parcels with chives.
@ Se rve carbonara wit h braised pork bell y, or fin ish with fresh black truffles.
*( % of total weight of whole milk and Parmesan cheese)
MACAND CHEESE INSP I RED BY HAROLD MCGEE
Yields 400 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 100 g
Wheat beer 75g
Sodium citrate 10 9
Salt 4.5g
Iota carrageenan 1.25g
Aged Gouda cheese, 200g
grated
Sharp cheddar cheese, 85g
grated
Water 300g
Macaroni (store-bought) 100g
Salt 2.4g
from page 3387
192
SCALING PROCEDURE
50% CD Whisk together.
37.5% 0 Bring to simmer.
5%
2.25%
0.63%
(0.26%)*
100%
42.5%
150%
50%
1.2%
Hand-blend slowly into hot liquid until cheese is completely emulsified.
@) Transfertoshall owbowl, and cool to room temperature.
Refrigerate unti l set, about 30 min.
Grate coarsely.
o Boil together over high heat unt il pasta has absorbed most of water and is al dente, about
7 min. Do not drain.
Whisk 160 g of cheese and remaining liquid into pasta unti l cheese is melted.
*(% of total weight offrst two ingredients ond cheeses)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHE N MANUAL
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PAD THAI ADAPTED FROM PI M TECHAMUANVIVIT
Yields 500 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Palm sugar
Fish sauce
Tamarind paste
see page145
Rice vinegar
Dried baby shrimp
Neutral oil
Ri ce stick noodles
Shrimp, peeled and
deveined
Neutral oi l
Bean sprouts, cut into
3 cm / l y.. in strips
Garli c chi ves, diced
Shallot, minced
Garlic, minced
Ginger, minced
Egg, beaten
lime juice
Salt
QUANTITY
56g
40g
18g
ll g
50g
as needed
300g
12 shrimp
as needed
40g
24g
20g
10 9
10 9
60 g
to taste
to taste
Pressure-cooked peanuts, 30 g
fine ly grou nd
see page 151
Roasted chili powder to taste
from page 3385
SCALING PROCEDURE
18.5% 0 Combi ne, and bring to simmer unti l fu ll y dissolved.
13.5% CD Remove sauce from heat, and reserve.
6%
3.5%
16.5%
100%
13%
8%
7%
3%
3%
20%
10%
Fry baby shrimp over medium heat until golden brown, aboutlO min.
o Transfer to paper towel- lined tray.
o Cool.
Mince finely, and reserve for garni sh.
(2) Cover with warm water, and soak at room temperature for 2 h.
Fry over medium heat unti l half cooked, aboutl mi n.
Add, and stir-fry until sli ghtly wilted and shrimp are full y cooked, 1- 2 min.
@ Remove shrimp, bean sprouts, and garli c chives, leaving oil in pan.
@ Add to pan, and increase heat to hi gh. Cook until golden, about 45 s.
@ Add soaked noodles, and stir-fry over high heat until translucent, 2-3 min.
@ Remove from heat.
@ Add to pan, st irring constantly until incorporated and cooked through, about 1 min.
@ Add 40 g of reserved sauce.
@ Cook over hi gh heat for 1 min.
@ Stir in cooked shrimp, bean sprouts, and garlic chi ves; remove from heat.
@ Season.
@ Add more sauce if necessary.
@ Garnish with dried shrimp, peanuts, and chil i powder.
PASTA MARINARA I NSP I RED BY H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AK I KAMOZAWA
Yields 450 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tomato water 500g
see page 40
Basil 5g
Thyme leaves 2.5g
Bay leaf, julienne 1 g
Salt 109
Spaghetti or tagliatell e 140g
(store-bought)
Tomato confit, thinl y 40g
sliced
see page179
Basil leaves, julienne 5g
Extra-virgi n olive oil to taste
from page 3386
SCALING
100%
1%
0.5%
0.2%
2%
28%
8%
1%
PROCEDURE
o Combine, and vacuum seal.
CD Infuse refrigerated for12 h.
Strain tomato water.
o Season tomato water.
o Soak spaghetti in tomato waterfor1 h.
Drain, reserving tomato water.
(2) Transfer tomato water and pasta to separate containers, and refrigerate. Pasta can be stored
forupt08h.
Bring tomato water to boil. Add soaked pasta, and cook for 1 min 10 s.
Drain.
@ Tosswith pasta to finish.
PLANT FOOD S
193
> ~ ~
.... ;.'
j
4,
'--
.-
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,-.
"-
COCOA TAJARIN
Yields400g "-
-
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE "-
00 wheat flour 127 g 100% CD Combin e.
.-
"-
Semolina flour 85g 67%
'--
Dutch processed cocoa 57g 45%
,-
powder
"-
Vital wheat gluten 5g 4%
-
"-
Salt 2g 1.5%
Eggyolks 153 g 120% o Add to flour mixture, and knead for10 min to make dough.
t-
"-
Water 35 g 28% Vacuum seal. Refrigerate fo r 12 h.
,-
"-
Extra virgi n olive oi l 29g 23% o Roll into sheets 1 mm I y,. in thick.
,-
Cut into noodles 2 mm I y,. in wide. "-
Place on parchment paper, cover with damp towel, and refrigerate.
"-
Deodorized cocoa butter 40 g 31.5% o Melt cocoa butter, and reserve. ,.-
(food-grade)
Cook noodles in boiling 3% salt water for 40 s.
"-
- Drain, and toss with melted cocoa butter.
'-
Sea urchin butter warmed 100 g 79% Garnish tajarin.
'-
from page 5227
- \-.
RAMEN NOODLES Yields 14.5 g
- \-.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
All -purpose flour 78g 100% CD Mix together.
\-.
Semolina flour 57g 73% o Form into mound.
\-
Wheat gluten 2.5g 3.2% Make well in center.
\-
Salt 19 1.3%
Eggyolks, whisked 76.5g 98% o Combine, and pour into well. \-
Water 17.5g 22% Mix slowly by hand until dough forms.
\....
Neutral oil 14.5g 18.5% Vacuum seal.
o Rest at room temperature for at least 1 h.
'-.
Roll with pasta roll er into sheets 1 mm IX, in thick.
\...
Cut sheets into noodles2 mm IX, in wide.
Cook noodles in 3% salt solution for 30 s.
\...
Ramen broth, warmed 400g 513% @ Divide noodles and broth evenly among four bowls. I.-
(not freeze-dried)
@ Garnish with zest.
see page 61
\...
Yuzu zest, finely grated to taste
\...
(fresh)
from page 5250
\..
BUCKWHEAT DOUGH Yields525g
\..
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
\..
Buckwheat flour 200g 100% CD Sift.
\..
All-purpose flour 100g 50% o Combine with sifted buckwheat flour in food processor.
'-
Activa TI or RM 12g 6% Process to mix thoroughly.
(4%)*
- .....
Salt 3.5g 1.75%
Whol e milk 150g 75% o Blend thoroughly into flour mi xture.
....
Eggyolks 75g 37.5% Transfer dough to floured surface, and knead for 10 min. -....
Grapeseed oil 40g 20% Vacuum seal.
-
o Refrigerate for12 h to allow enzyme to bind proteins.
...
Roll dough with pasta roll er into sheets 2 mm 11" in t hi ck.
Cut sheets into noodles 0.5 cm I Y8 in wide.
...
Cook noodles in 3% salt soluti on for l Y2 min.
...
'-
Oyster butter emul sion, 100g 50% @ Toss noodles in oyster butter and serve.
warmed
~
see page 297
from page 5234 *(% ojtotol weight ojboth flours) ~
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SEMOLINA PASTA Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Semolina flour 400g 100%
All-purpose bleached wheat flour 100g 25%
Water 100g 25%
White wine (dry) 28g 7%
Albumin powder 8g 2%
Salt 5.2g 1.3%
from page 3-382
COMPRESSED AND IMPREGNATED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
o Peel, and cut the ingredients into even-size pieces. Arrange the
food in a single layer in a so us vide bag.
Best Bets for Compressing or Impregnating Produce
o Add liquid (optional). To impregnate the fruit or vegetable with
a liquid, add it to the bag or container; see the tabl e at right for
suggestions.
Vacuum-seal by using full vacuum power. Rest the produce in
the bag or contai ner for at leastlO min after the vacuum is
released.
SMOKED LETTUCE
Ingredient
apple
apricot
asparagus
celery
cucumber
dragon fruit
eggplant
fig
grape, peeled
kiwi
lettuce
melon
onion
peach
pear
pineapple
plum
rhubarb
strawberry
tomato
watermelon
from page 3390
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water
Hickory liquid smoke
(Wright's brand)
150g
0.8g
(three drops)
167% 0 Mi x together.
0.9%
liquid
appl e juice
chamomi l e tea
asparagus juice
blue-cheese water
pickling brine
Iychee juice
barbecue sauce diluted i n water
port
verjuice (store-bought sour grape jui ce)
strawberry jui ce
smoked water
bacon water or prosciutto stock
pickling brine
vanilla syrup
red wine syrup
coconut water (store-bought or fresh), rum
almond milk
grenadine syrup
thin cream infused with basil
ketchup di l uted in water
green tea
Iceberg lettuce, cut
1 cm IYs in squares
90g 100% 0 Pour smoky water over lettuce.
Place container, uncovered, in vacuum chamber.
See page
2-338
182
195
178
Yields 90 g
@ Pull vacuum until water boils, and then turn off machine and all ow lettuce to absorb smoky
water in vacuum chamber for 20 min.
Drain lettuce, and refrigerate .
from page 515
PLANT FOODS 195
CURRY-IMPREGNATED APPLE
Yields1 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Applejuice 1 kg
see page 2338
Turmeric, freshly grated 20g
Black peppercorns (whole) 3g
Coriander seeds 2g
Cinnamon stick, toasted 1.5 g
Cardamom 1 g
Cloves (whol e) 1 g
Star anise, toasted 19
Saffron threads 0.2g
Apples, peeled and cored 900 g
from page 3393
100%
2%
0.3%
0.2%
0.15%
0.1%
0.1%
0.1%
0.02%
90%
CD Vacuum seal jui ce and spi ces.
o Refrigerate for 12 h to i nfuse.
Pl ace appl es in bowl, and cover wi th infused jui ce.
@) Place bowl in chamber sealer, and pull moderate vacuum. Release
vacuum when liquid begins to boil, and then run vacuum cycle twice
more to boil a total of three times.
Hold under vacuum for15 min. After last cycle, turn machine off,
and leave machine sealed. When appl es have full y absorbed liquid,
release vacuum, and remove food.
COMPRESSED MUSCAT GRAPES Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Muscat grapes 100g
Grape juice, clarifi ed 100 g
Verjuice (store-bought) 60g
Fructose 12 g
Malicacid l.3 g
Salt to taste
from page 5110
SCALING
100%
100%
60%
12%
1.3%
PROCEDURE
CD Bl anch in boi ling water for 20- 45 s, depending on ripeness. Riper grapes wi ll require shorter
time.
o Shock in ice-water bath, peel, and reserve.
Combine.
@) Taste for seasoning balance.
Vacuum seal with peeled grapes to compress.
@) Refri gerate for no more than 3- 4 h before serving or grapes wi ll become too soft.
COMPRESSED MELON TERRINE Yields675g
ADAPTED FROM H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AK I KAMOZAWA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
For the calcium lactate solution:
Cold water
Calcium lactate
500g
2.5g
Honeydew melon, 375 g
cut into five planks,
each 1 cm I % in thick,
5 cm by10 cm / 2 in by4 in
Cantaloupe, cut into four 300 g
planks, each 1 cm I % in
thick,S cm by10 cm/ 2 in
by4in
For the pectin solution:
Cold water 500 g
LM pectin 15 g
(Genupectin lM 104 AS,
CP Kelco brand)
from page 3392
196
SCALING PROCEDURE
167%
0. 8%
(0.5%)*
125%
100%
167%
5%
(3%)*
CD Di sperse calcium lactate gluconate in water, and stir until full y dissolved.
o Vacuum seal pl anks in one even layer with calcium solut ion.
Refri gerate for 20 min.
@) Remove from bag, and pat dry.
Mix pectin i n water, and bl end until full y dispersed.
@) Bring solution to boil while shearing for1 min to fully hydrate.
o Cool.
Brush one calcium-infused cantaloupe pl ank with cooled pectin solution,
and lay calcium-infused honeydew pl ank on top.
Repeat brushing and layering process with remaining six pl anks.
@ Vacuum seal each stack to compress.
@ Refri gerate until bonded, about 12 h.
@ Cut terrines into slices, and serve.
*(% of total weight of water used in the individual solution)
VOLUME 6 . KITCH EN MANU AL
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WATERMELON MEAT INSPIRED BY ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ
INGREDIENT
Watermelon, peeled and white rind discarded
Water
Salt
from page 3394
QUANTITY
500g
100 g
5g
CD Cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in "steaks." Cut from surface, seedless part only,
reserving all remaining watermelon fl esh for another use. Leave small lip
of white rind to mimic fat cap of steak, if desired.
o Whisk together water and salt to make brine.
o Vacuum seal watermelon steaks with brine, and refrigerate for 2 h.
o Drain brined watermelon, and pat dry.
Dehydrate slices at55 ' c / 130 ' F until dry and leather- like, 8-12 h.
Brush slices with water, vacuum seal, and refri gerate. This will moisten
them just enough to keep them tender.
o Serve as fun replacement for meat. See the plated-dish recipe for
Watermelon Bulgogi on page 5285.
VEGETABLE COALS ADAPTED FROM MUGARITZ
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
SCALING
100%
20%
1%
Cassava roots, peeled 675g 100% CD Cut into 4.5 cm / 1:y., in cub es.
White fish stock
see page 12
Squid ink
Salt
from page 3395
350g
15 g
to taste
52%
2.2%
o Combine stock and ink.
o Mix with cassava cubes.
o Simmer together unti l tender, 35- 40 min.
Drain ink-stained cubes.
Season.
Yields250 g
PULLED MUSHROOM INSPIRED BY H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AKI KAMOZAWA
INGREDIENT
KingTrumpet
mushrooms, sliced in
half lengthwise
Neutral oil
Barbecue sauce
see page220
from page 3396
QUANTITY
250g
50g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Vacuum seal oil with mushrooms.
o Cook sous vide in 90 ' C / 194 ' F bath for 4 h.
20%
o Drain o n tray lined with paper towels.
o Pull mushrooms apart into individual fibers.
Mix in, and serve.
PLANT FOODS
Yields250 g
Yields200 g
197
....
{
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SQUID-INK BEAN-SPROUT RISOTTO
ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Bean sprouts 250g
Squi d stock (or water) 50g
see page 6
Squid ink 2.5g
Squid stock (or water) 50g
Agar(Texturas brand) 0.3 g
Eggyolks 30g
Garlic, mashed 8g
SCALING
100%
20%
1%
20%
0.12%
12%
3.2%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut off ends.
(3) Cut into 1 cm / 'Is in sticks to resemble rice, and reserve.
Blend stock and ink, and reserve, refrigerated.
o Disperse agar in stock, and bring to boi l.
Simmerfor2 min, and remove from heat.
Cast evenly into nonstick mold in layer1 cm / 'Is in thick.
(2) Refrigerate until set, about 10 min.
Cut squid jelly into cubes, and reserve.
Blend.
Yields 700 g (eight portions)
Extra-virgin olive oi l 150g 60% @ Drizzle slowly into yolks, wh ile blending, until emulsified and mayonnaise forms .
Salt to taste
Squid legs 75g
Neutral oil asneeded
Salt as needed
Squid ink stock, from 50 g
above
30%
20%
@ Season and reserve.
@ Saute legs for 20 s on each side unt il just cooked through.
@ Season, re move from pan, and rese rve.
@ Saute bean sprouts.
@ Add squid ink stock to sauteed sprouts.
Neutral oil
Lemon herb oi l
as needed
@ Simmer together until risotto is just cooked through and sti ll crunchy, about 2 min.
@) Portion risotto into four bowls.
see page 27
@ Garnish with squid jell y, garlic mayonnai se, squid legs, and parsley o il.
from page 3397
FROZEN WHITE "TRUFFLE" ADAPTED FROM QUIQUE DACOSTA
'CD Dispe rse gelatin in cold soy milk, and then stir over medium heat unti l d issolved
and fu ll y hydrated.
(3) Blend in cheese unti l melted and fu ll y incorporated into the mixtu re.
Strain and chil l.
o Add wh ite truffl e oil, salt, and pepper, and then place in 1 I wh ipping siphon.
Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Melt mannitol in small saucepan, and bring to 200 c / 390 OF. Add colored
powders, and then hold at 180 C / 355 oF.
Dispense foam onto offset spatula in desired shapes. Insert bamboo skewer into
each "truffle."
(2) Dip in liquid nitrogen. After dipping, baste with nitroge n to ensure even freezing.
Swirl frozen truffle in warm mannitol to coat evenly and soften rough edges.
Refreeze in nitrogen. A brief dip will set mannitol she ll.
@ Thaw in refrigerator for 1 h. Parmesan cream will soften as it warms.
@ Garnish with porcini powder.
INGREDIENT
160 Bloom gelatin
Soy milk
Aged Parmesan cheese,
grated
White truffle oi l
Black pepper, finely ground
Salt
Mannitol
Gold powder
Bronze powder
Dried porcini powder
from page 3-400
f... MANilA!
QUANTITY
6g
500g
300g
12g
0.5g
6g
800g
2g
0.2g
60g
Yields 900 g
SCALING
2%
166%
100%
4%
0.17%
2%
267%
0.7%
0.07%
20%
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CLAY POTATOES ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADUR IZ
Yields200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 3 kg
Salt 24g
Whole baby Yukon Gold 200g
potatoes, skins on
Water 40g
Kaolin clay 30g
Lactose 20g
Carbon black powder 1.5 g
Garl ic confit 100g
see page176
Egg yolks 40g
Extra-virgin olive oil 2s0g
Salt to taste
from page 3398
SCALING
1,500%
12%
100%
20%
15%
10%
O.7S%
50%
20%
125%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine in pot.
(3) Simmer in salted water for 20 min, until cooked but still firm.
Strain.
o Place on bamboo skewers, and reserve warm.
Combine.
o Dip warm skewered potatoes into clay mixture to coat.
o Place two cooling racks in deep hotel pan, one on bottom and one on top.
Thread skewers to stand upright in racks.
@) Dry in 45 C/ ll s OF oven forls min.
@ Transferpotatoes from skewers to serving plates.
@ Blend.
@ Blend into garli c and yolk mi xt ure unti l emulsified and aioli forms.
@ Season aio li, and serve with warm potatoes.
FOSSILIZED SALSIFY BRANCH ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields 350 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water sOOg
Calcium hydroxide 4.sg
Salsify root, scrubbed 400g
and peeled (four medium
roots)
Salted cod roe or pollock 100 g
roe
Extra-virgin olive oil
Sea beans (Salicornia)
Extra-virgin olive oil
from page 3399
16g
40g
109
SCALING PROCEDURE
125% @ Whisk calcium hydroxide into water to make brine.
1.13%
(0.9%)*
100% (3) Soak in brine at room temperature for 3 h; stir every 30 min to e nsure that calcium hydroxide is
distributed evenly.
Remove from brine, and rinse.
o Bake in 170 C / 340 OF oven for45 min, and reserve warm.
25% Whisk and reserve.
4%
10% o Toss.
2.5% 0 Place salsify root in center of each warmed plate.
Garnish evenly with fish roe and sea beans.
*(% of weight of water used for brine)
PLANT FOODS
199
-
TRADITIONAL STARCH THICKENERS
CD Disperse by mixing the starch with whatever liquid you want to thicken
unt il a slurry forms.
o Heat to at least 80 C / 176 OF to hydrate. Use a water bath if available; if
heating on a stove top, stir the mixture constantly. The starch solution
wi ll change from mil ky to cl ear when it is fu ll y hydrated.
Best Bets forThickeningwith Natural Starch
Starch Texture Translucency Flavor
arrowroot creamy clear neutral
corn creamy opaque strong
kudzu gelati nous clear neutral
potato sticky clear subtle
rice sticky opaque subtle
tapioca sticky clear neutral
waxy corn creamy opaque subtle
wheat creamy opaque strong
from page 428
PREGELATINIZED STARCH PASTE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Water sOg 12.5%
Tapioca starch sOg 12.5%
Water, hot 400g 100%
from page 429
200
Application (scaling)' Heat-sensitive Stable when thawed
broths
jus, gravies
broths
veloute, cream sauce
gravies
puddings
set gels
broths
glazes
de nse puddings, tofu
broths
jus, gravies
sti r-fry sauces
glazes
soups
puddings, purees
broths
jus, gravies
fruit fi ll ings
broths
low-fat salad dressings
gravies
veloute, cream sauce
gravies
bechamel
1%
2%
1.50%
2.0 %-2.5%
3%-4%
5.0%- 6.5%
9 %
2%
5%-7%
12%
1%
2%
2.5%
3.0%-3.5%
4%-5%
7%- 8%
1.5%- 2.0%
2.5%-3.0%
4%-5%
1%
2.50%
4%
2.5%
3.0%-3.5%
4%-5%
no unstable
yes unstable
no unstable
yes unstable
yes unstable
somewhat stable
no stable
yes stable
'(set weight of liquid to be thickened to 700%)
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk starch into water unt il fully d ispersed.
(3) Vacuum seal mixture.
Cook sous vide in 80 c / 176 OF bath for 2 h.
@ Blend in hot water until ful ly incorporated whi le the paste is still warm.
Strain, cool, and store vacuum-sealed at room te mperature.
VO LUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
YieldssOO g
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MODERN STARCH THICKENERS
CD Select a thickening agent from the table below. Note that starches marked
as unstable below may break down upon heating or upon thawing from a
frozen state.
Whisk the starch into the liquid to be thickened by hand. Do not use
a blender, whi ch can make the mixture gluey or stringy.
Heat to hydrate if necessary. Bring Pure Cote B790 and Wondra to a
simmerto hydrate fu ll y; heat Novation PRIMA 600 to 75 C/ 167 OF.
Best Bets forThickeningwith Modified Starch
Scaling
Stable when
See
Product Brand Source range* Translucency Texture Heated Thawed Example use (scaling)' page
N-ZorbitM National tapioca 20%- nearly swell ed unstable unstable oi l powders 30%-40% 207
Starch 100% opaque granules oil pastes 85%-100% 206
bulking gels, 5%-20% 242
sauces
Ultra-Sperse 3 National tapioca 0.2%-8% nearly to fully smooth stable stable meat gravies, jus 3%- 4% 204
Starch opaque
puddings 6%-8%
Flojel60 National corn 1%-10% opaque smooth, stable unstable cream sauce 4%
Starch stringy puddings 7%
Novation National corn 1%-7% opaque smooth stable stable broths 2.0%-2.5%
Prima 600 Starch
purees 4%
Ultra-Tex 8 National tapioca 1%-10% nearly creamy stable unstable cream sauce 3.0%-3.5%
Starch opaque meat gravies, jus 4%
purees 6%
puddings 8%
Pure-Cote GPC corn 0.5%- clear smooth stable unstable films 12% 229
B790 20%
thickened juices 15%
Maltrin GPC corn 1%-30% clear smooth stable stable thin sauces 10%
purees 20%
Wondra General barl ey malt, 1%-15% opaque smooth stable unstable gravies, veloute 6%-7%
Mills wheat bechamel 8%-9%
from page 446 '(set weight of liquid to be thickened to 700%)
AVOCADO PUREEADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Hass avocado, peeled 140g 100% CD Puree until smooth.
Ultra-Sperse 5 5g 3.6% Transfer to squeeze bottle.
(National Starch brand)
Pipe dots of avocado puree onto plates. Char lightly with blowtorch.
Ascorbic acid l.4 g 1%
Lime juice 1.4 g 1%
Salt to taste
from page 5207
THICKENERS 201
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MODERNIST BECHAMEL
Yi elds 215 g
INSP I RED BY AKI KAMOZAWA AND H. ALEX AN DER TALBOT
INGREDIENT
All-purpose bleached flour
Unsalted butter, melted
Whole milk,
warmed to 45 ' c / 113 'F
Press ure-cooked roux, from
a bove
Ultra-Sperse 3
(National Starch brand)
Lambda carrageenan
(Texturas brand)
Nutmeg, freshly grated
Salt
from page 431
QUANTITY
250g
250g
200g
15 g
7g
0.2g
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
125% @ Combine, and di vide mi xtu re among three 500 ml / l pt mason jars.
125% (3) Seal jars, and place them upright in press ure cooker.
fill pressure cooker wit h water to middl e of jars.
100%
7.5%
3.5%
0.1%
@) Pressure-cook fat at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi fo r 2 h.
Cool resu lting roux at room temperature; measure 15 g for recipe, and refrigerate
remainder for later use.
@ Whisktogetherwith reserved roux unti l smoot h to form bechamel.
o Warm bechamel to desired temperature.
Season.
The bechame l can also be made by using 1.25% (2.5 g) lambda carrageenan
rather than the amount indi cated above a nd substituting 1% (2 g) pregelati -
ni zed starch paste for the Ultra-Sperse 3. for more detai ls, see page 200.
If pressure-cooked in a ca nningj ar, the roux can be stored without refri g-
eration. It has effectively been canned (see page 288). Once opened, it
must be refrigerated.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE PUDDING
INGREDIENT
Je rusale m arti chokes, thinly
sliced
Neutral oi l
Whole mi lk
Jerusalem artichoke puree,
from above
Ultra-Sperse 3
(National Starch brand)
Xanthangum
La mbda carrageenan
(Texturas brand)
Jerusalem artichokes, thinly
sliced
Grapeseed oi l
Roasted-hazelnut oil
Roasted hazelnuts, quartered
Pickled Jerusalem artichoke,
fin e julienne
see page 178
Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
f laky salt
from page 431
QUANTITY
200 g
20g
400g
100g
3g
0.2g
O.lg
25g
as needed
8g
10 9
6g
5g
to taste
SCALING
200%
20%
400%
100%
3%
0.2%
0.1 %
25%
8%
10%
6%
5%
Yields 160 g (four portions)
PROCEDURE
@ Combine in nonstick pan.
(3) Cook artichoke slices over medium heat until golden brown and very tender, about
20 min.
Puree mi lk with cooked art ichokes until smooth.
@) Pass puree through fi ne sieve; reserve 100 g of art ichoke puree for recipe.
Ble nd wit h reserved puree to fo rm pudding.
@ Di vide pudding equall y among four small bowls.
o Cover and refri gerate bowls of pudding.
Heat oi l to 190 ' c / 375 ' F.
Ad d arti chokes, and fry until golden brown, approximately 2 min.
@ Transfe r artichokes to tray lined with paper towels, a nd cool.
@ Drizzle oil eve nl y over each bowl of pudding.
@ Garnish puddi ngs.
@ Season puddings.
@ Top with fried artichokes.
to MAN I IA I
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STEAMED COD WITH COD ROE VELOUTE Yields four portions
ADAPTED FROM MI GUEL SANCHEZ ROMERA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White fish stock 50g
see page 6
Pregelatinized starch paste 20g
see page200
Water
Sugar
Lemonjuice
Lemon zest
Cod fillet
Salted cod roe (ortobiko)
Salt
Garlicoil
see page 28
from page 432
2S g
109
109
2.5g
300g
30g
to taste
50g
SMOKED PEPPER PUREE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Goulash broth, 185 g
see page19
Red bell pepper, 30g
thinly sliced
Red onion, thinly sliced 23 g
Cured ham, thinly sli ced 15g
Smoked Hungarian 8g
paprika
Red wine vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
Ultra-Sperse 5 5.2g
(National Starch brand)
from page 45
100%
50%
50%
20%
20%
5%
600%
60%
100%
SCALING
100%
16%
12.5%
8%
4.5%
2.8%
(2.6%)*
CD Blend together.
o Combine warm, and stir until dissolved to make syrup.
o Cool completely.
o Add juice and zest to syrup.
Ble nd syrup with fish stock mixture to make veloute.
Cut loin into four portions of75 g each.
0) Vacuum seal portions individually.
Cook sous vide in 43 ' c / 109 ' F bath to core temperature of 42 ' C / lOB ' F,
about25 min.
Warm veloute.
@ Whisk in r(E .
@ Season roe veloute.
@ Place one cooked loin portion in center of each of four bowls.
@ Spoon roe veloute over loi ns.
@ Drizzle oil on top.
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
o Cook sous vide in 85 ' C/ 185 ' F bath for 2 h.
o Blend to fine puree.
o Pass through fine sieve.
Measure 200 g.
Season puree.
0) Whisk into puree.
Reheat and serve, or refrigerate until use.
*(% of total weight of pepper puree)
Yields250 g
CARAMELIZED CREME FRAICHE Yields300g
INGREDIENT
Creme frakhe
Bakingsoda
QUANTITY
250g
2.5g
Garlic confit, sieved 50 g
see page176
Pregelatinized starch 3.75 g
paste (or Ultra-Sperse 3)
seepage200
Salt to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine.
1% 0 Pressure-cook in Mason jars at gauge pressure of
1.4 bar / 21 psi for 2V2 h.
o Cool.
20% o Blend into creme frakhe.
1.5%
Season.
Serve, or refrigerate until use.
Raising the pH level (by adding
baking soda) and pressure-cooking
temperature greatly accelerates the
Maill ard reaction that produces a
brown color and distinct flavor.
- from page 45
....==1
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T Hie K E NER S 203
..
POMEGRANATE AND GARUM JUS Yields550 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Brown duck stock 200g 100% CD Combine.
see page 6
@ Bri ng to boil.
Pomegranate juice 34g 17%
Cool.
Garum (or fish sauce) 20g 10%
Maltvinegar as needed o Season jus with vinegar.
Ultra-Sperse 3 4.8g 2.4% Blend in Ultra-Sperse 3 to thicken.
(National Starch brand)
Se rve, or refri gerate unti l use.
from page 5122
TURKEY WING Yields 450 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Turkeywings, ends cut off
Salt
Sugar
Clarified butter
Potato starch
Frying oil
Sage, leaves
from page 433
300 g
9g
3g
15g
25g
as needed
as needed
100%
3%
1%
5%
8.3%
THANKSGIVING TURKEY GRAVY
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Brown chicken or turkey stock 600 g
see page 6
Reduced chicken orturkey 200 g
stock, from above
Garlic confit, pureed 25 g
see page 176
Ultra-Sperse 3 8 g
Dried cranberries, fin ely 10 g
minced
Sage, finely minced 2 g
Black peppercorns, coarsely 0.15 g
ground
Salt to taste
from page 433
SCALING
300%
100%
12.5%
4%
5%
1%
0.075%
CD Mix salt and sugar and rub eve nl y onto wings.
@ Vacuum sea l.
Refri gerate to cure for 24 h.
o Remove cured wings from bags; rinse off cure.
Vacuum seal wings with butte r.
Cook sous vide in 58 c / 136 OF bat h for 12 h.
(2) Remove wings from bag while still hot; carefull y debone without rupturing meat.
Refri gerate.
Coat wings wit h starch.
@ Po ur thin fi lm of oil in nonstick pan.
@ Fry coated wings fo r 2 min on each side.
@ Transfer to serving plates, and garni sh with gravy and whole sage leaves.
PROCEDURE
CD Reduce to 200 g, and reserve.
@ Blend reduced stock and garli c confit toget her to make gravy.
Whisk in Ultra-Sperse 3.
o Warm gravy to 70 C/ 160 OF.
Whisk into warm gravy.
Season gravy.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yields245g
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HEATHER-SMOKED STURGEON RILLETTES Yields200 g
INGREDIENT
Shallots, finely minced
White balsamic vinegar
Heather-smoked
sturgeon
see page 122
Basic mayonnaise
see page303
Celery, finely minced
Chives, minced
Celery leaf, minced
Chervil, minced
Tarragon, minced
Smoked salt
Ultra-Sperse 3
(National Starch brand)
Lime zes t, fin ely grated
Lemonjuice
from page 5235
QUANTITY
15 g
13g
100 g
75g
9g
5g
1.5 g
1. 5g
1.5g
1.2g
1.2g
1 g
0. 7g
SCALING
15%
13%
100%
75%
9%
5%
1.5%
1.5%
1.5%
1.2%
1.2%
1%
0.7%
PROCEDURE
CD Marinate shallots at room te mpe rat ure for 30 min.
o Shred st urgeon.
Combine shallots, st urgeon, and remaini ng
ingredi e nts in stand mixer.
@ Whip on mediu m-high speed until fluffy and all
ingredie nts are well incorporated.
Refri ge rate until use.
Store-bought st urgeon can be
substituted in thi s recipe.
CRISPY GOAT'S MILK RICOTTA DUMPLING Yi elds290 g
ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Goat milk ricotta or cow 200 g
milk ri cotta
store bought or see page 248
Heavy cream
Salt
Bl ack pepper
Ultra-Tex4
(National Starch brand)
Fryingoil
from page 5274
80g
2.8g
0.5g
8g
as needed
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Bl end together fully.
40%
1.4%
0.25%
4%
(3%)*
o Fo ld into ri cotta mi xture.
Roll into logs 3 cm / 2\4 in. in diameter on nonstick surface, using your palms.
@ Cut logs crosswise into 3 cm / 2\4 in pieces.
Arrange pi eces on nonstick baking sheet a nd refri gerate until use.
To serve, dehydrate dumplings in 45 ' C / 11 5 ' F ove n for 45 min.
e?) Deep-fry dumpl ings in 195 ' C / 385 ' F oil unt il cri spy and golde n, about 1 min, and drai n on
paper towels.
*(% of total weight of goat's milk ricotto and heavy cream)
MARCONA ALMOND BUTTER PASTE Yields 350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Raw Marcona almonds 500 g 143% CD Roast in 175 ' C / 350 ' F oven until golden, about 15 min.
o Process roasted nuts with coll oid mill orfood processor until smooth, and meas ure 350 g.
Marcona almond butter, 350g 100% Blend together to thi cken.
from above
Ultra-Sperse 5 1O.5g 3%
(National Starch brand)
Salt to taste @ Season butter, and refrige rate until use. Before use, te mper at room te mperature for15 min.
from page 5282
THICK ENERS 205
MALT VINEGAR POWDER
INGREDIENT
Spray-dried malt vinegar
Acetic acid
Salt
Sugar
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
from page 434
QUANTITY
200g
40g
36g
12 g
Bg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Grind together, and sift through fine sieve.
20% Season with salt to taste.
l B% Store in a n airtight containe r in dark, cool place.
6%
4%
BACON POWDER SQUARES ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Smoked bacon fat, rendered 100 g 100% CD Warm bacon fat just enough to li quefy it.
see page 3145
Yields250 g
Yields250 g
N-Zorbit M 80 g BO% Whisk bacon fat into N-Zorbit M a little at a time until fully incorporated with powder.
(National Starch brand)
Salt to taste
Black pepper, fine powder to taste
Pineapple glass 70 g
see page 187
from page 434
Season powder.
@) Form powder into squares 13 mm / Y2 in wide, a nd set aside.
70% Cut glass into squares 5 cm / 2 in wide.
Pl ace one single bacon powder square in center of each glass square.
o Fold glass squares over bacon powder squares to form small packets.
Serve immediately, or store packets in cool, dry environment.
PARMESAN NUGGETS IN SP IRED BY FERRAN ADRIA Yields35 g
INGREDIENT
Parmesan, grated
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
from page 435
SPICED ASH
INGREDIENT
Pain d'epices powder
see page 51
Carbon color powder
(MSKbrand)
Kaolin clay powder
(MeadowSweet Herbs
and Oils brand)
Roasted hazelnut oil
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
from page 522
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100g
25g
QUANTITY
45g
B.5g
7g
12g
109
100% CD Microwave until oil separates from solids.
Strain; reserve 10 g of oil for recipe.
25% Whisk oil into N-Zorbit M a littl e at a time, until fu ll y incorporated. Resu lting powder may
SCALING
100%
19%
15.5%
27%
22%
be used as seasoning.
@) Spoon thin layer of resu lting powde r into nonstick pan.
Saute powder over low heat; swirl constantly until small spheres form and begin to dry.
Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate.
Yields BOg
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk toget her.
Whisk oi l slowly into N-Zorbit M.
Incorporate tinted spice blend thoroughly.
\ f ( l I I I M ~ ~ . KITfHFN MANUAL
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INGREDIENT
Confectioner's sugar
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
Vanilla pulp and seeds
Salt
Olive oil
from page 435
CASHEW HALVAH
QUANTITY
80 g
160 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
80% @ Dry blend.
160%
14g 14%
(from four beans)
4g
100g
4%
100% (3) Whisk into powder until fully incorporated.
Press through fine tamis to remove clumps.
@) Store in airtight container in cool, dry place.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cashews, roasted 100 g
N-ZorbitM 30 g
(National Starch brand)
Salt 1.5 g
from page 593
100% @ Combine.
30% (3) Grind to fine powder.
Refrigerate until use.
1.5%
ALMOND POLENTA ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Marcona almonds, 2S0g
toasted and finely grated
N-ZorbitM 30g
(National Starch brand)
Ultra-Sperse M Sg
(National Starch brand)
Xanthan gum 0.4 g
White chicken stock 2S0g
see page 6 and page 11
Sweet almond oil 40g
Salt to taste
from page 436
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% @ Whisk together.
12%
(5%)'
2%
(0.9%)'
0.16%
(3) Set dry mixture aside.
100% Pour stock into pot.
@) Whisk in dry mi xture from above.
Cook over medium heat; stir until just thicke ned, about 3 min .
16% Whisk in.
o Season.
' (% ojtotal weightojoll ingredients)
THICKENERS
Yields 350 g
Yields130 g
Yields575g
207
EDIBLE EARTH INSPIRED BY RENE REDZEPI AND WYLIE DUFRESNE
Yields 475 g
INGREDIENT
Almond flour, toasted
Black bread, thinly sliced and
dehydrated atl35 ' C/ 27S OF
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
Barley malt powder
Dried chicory root, coarsely
ground
Dried porcini powder
Freeze-dried shiitake powder
seepage188
Grapeseed oil
Toasted- pumpkin seed oil
Caramel color powder
Salt
from page 437
2 08
QUANTITY
200g
150g
20g
1B.Sg
17 g
lSg
14g
31 g
9g
as needed
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Blend in food processor until resembl es soil.
75%
10%
9.25%
B.5%
7.S%
7%
lS.5%
4.5%
(3) Dri zzle into dry mixture while continuing to
blend with food processor until oi l is fully
incorporated.
Adjust color if necessary.
@) Season.
Transfer to airti ght containe r and store in cool,
dry place.
VOLUME 6 . KI TCHEN MANUAL
This is our homage to the edible
landscapes of Michel Bras (Le
Gargauillau de/eunes Legumes),
David Kinch (Into the Vegetable
Garden), and the many modern
chefs who have simulated the
aesthetics of nature in their dish es,
including Quique Dacosta, Ferran
and Albert Adria, Andoni Luis
Aduriz, Yosh iaki Takazawa, and
Sam Mason, among others.
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CORN PEBBLES ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 95 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Corn, freeze-dried and 30 g
ground into powder
see page 188 (or store-bought)
N-ZorbitM 15g
(National Starch brand)
Spray-dried buttermilk 15 g
see page 59 (or store-bought)
Smoked-grapeseed oil 6g
(store-bought)
Grapeseed oil 30 g
Salt to taste
from page 436
SCALING
100%
50%
50%
20%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Dryblend.
o Combine oils.
Whisk into powder mixture until fully incorporated.
o Season resu lt ing corn pebbl e base.
Form into 1 cm / % in diameter ball s; wearing latex gloves will he lp.
Bake in 135 C / 275 OF oven until balls become li ghtly golde n and begin to firm, about
6min.
o Serve immediately, or store in airtight containe r in cool, dry place.
THICKENERS
209
, .- ~ n ' '': . ~ . , Il!.
THICKENED HOT AND COLD LIQUIDS
CD Choose the amount ofthi ckening desired and a corres pondi ng formula.
We recommend those li sted in t he tables t hat fo ll ow. Proportions are
given relative to the weight ofliquid used. For example, add 0.5 g of guar
gum and 0.35 g of xanthan gum to every 100 g of carrot jui ce to make a
thi ck, hot carrot sauce.
Disperse the t hi ckeners. Thi ckening agents listed as cold-soluble can be
Best Bets forThickening Hot Li quids
Amountof
Hydrate
thickening Thicke ners (scaling)* (oc) (OF) (min)
very little xantha n gum 0.2% hot or cold
la mbda carrageena n 0.1% co ld
littl e gum a rabi c 10%
60 140 5
160 Bloom gelat in 3%
la mbda carrageenan 0.25% co ld
xantha n gum 0.35% hot or cold
mode rat e propyle ne glyco l 0.65% 82 180 3
a lginate
mi crocrystall ine 1. 5% cold
cell ul ose
gum tragacanth 0.35%
la mbda carrageenan 0.4% 82 180 3
locust bean gum 0.2%
great guar gum 0.5% hot or co ld
xantha n gum 0.35%
160 Bloom gelatin 9% 60 140 5
glucose syrup DE40 4%
cell ulose gum LV 0. 5%
lambda carragee nan 0.8% cold
very great xa ntha n gum 0.3% cold
la mbda carragee nan 0.7%
cellulose gum LV 1.2% room 30
konjacgum 0.15% te mpe rature
xant ha n gum 0.15%
stirred direct'ly into cold liquids; t hose listed as hot-solubl e can be stirred
into hot liquids. Otherwise, stir t he agent into a small amount of cold
liquid to dissolve it, and t hen add it to the remain ing li quid, and finall y
whisk to disperse it.
Hydrate full y. Heat as directed in t he hydrati on column ofthe tables.
Temperat ures indicated are t he minimum required for proper hydrati on.
Heat sta bilit y Note Example use
thins at high te mp light consommes
yes best used in da iry appli cations
a nd broths,
flavore d milks
sli ghtl y opaque, not suite d to constructed
yes
cl ear li quids broths, light
yes best used in da iry a pplicati o ns
soups
t hins at high te mp
cream sauces,
veloutes, soups
yes
thi ckens at hi gh high-calcium solut ions may
te mp become to o thi ck
t hins at high te mp good for liquids with a high soups a nd
rati o of suspe nded solids, coating sauces,
slightl y o paque ve loutes
yes sucrose, fructose o r anothe r, meat glazes,
less sweet sugar solid may be constructed jus
su bstitute d (see page 34)
yes best used in dai ry a pplicati ons light puddings
yes purees and
spreads, thi ck
thi cke ns at high shear for 5 min afte r di spersing glazes, savo ry
temp t o e nsure ko nj ac full y hydrates; puddings
best texture whe n fat co ncen-
t rati on is a bove 12%
from page 4-46 ' (set weight of liquid to be thickened to 100%)
2 10 VO LU ME 6 . KITCHE N MA NUA L
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Best Bets for Thickening Cold Liquids
Amount of
Hydrate
thickening Thickeners (scaling)* (oc) (OF) (min) Note Example use
very little guargum 0.35% hotor cold opaque, not suited for clear liquids flavored milk
xanthan gum 0.15% hot or cold cold consommes
little lambda carrageenan 0.15% cold broths, light soups
xanthan gum 0.10%
xanthan gum 0.25% hot or cold broths, light soups
moderate guargum 0.25% cold cold cream sauces
cellulose gum LV 0.50%
lambda carrageenan 0.25% cold light fruit and vegetable
xanthan gum 0.15% purees, soups
xanthan gum 0.4% hot or cold light fruit and vegetable
purees, soups
great konjacgum 0.3% 82 180 3 shear for 5 min after dispersingto gazpachos and other cold
locust bean gum 0.1% ensure that konjac hydrates fully soups
cellulose gum LV 1.0% cold opaque, not suited for clear liquids coating sauces
la mbda carrageenan 0.5%
very great gum tragacanth 0.5% cold best texture when fat concentration pastes, thick purees
xanthan gum 0.2% is above 12%
cellulose gum LV 2.25% 82 180 3 best texture when solids ratio is high
propylene glycol 0.50%
alginate
from page 4-46 *(set weight of liquid to be thickened to 700%)
HAM CONSOMME WITH MELON BEADS ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR IA Yields 600 g (10 servings)
INGREDIENT
Water, cold
Iberico ham, excess fat
removed, thinly sliced
Iberico ham consomme
Xanthangum
(Texturas brand)
Melonjuice
see page 2336
Sodium alginate (Algin,
Texturas brand)
Water
Calcium chloride
Black peppercorns,
finely ground
from page 4-48
QUANTITY
500g
250g
250g
0.6g
500g
(from about
800 g of melon)
2g
500g
2.5g
to taste
SCALING
200%
100%
100%
0.24%
200%
0.8%
(0.4%)'
200%
1%
PROCEDURE
CD Combi ne, and simmerfor15 min.
Cool completely, and remove congealed fat from surface of broth.
Pass broth through fine sieve, and reserve 250 g of consomme.
o Blend thoroughly with consomme.
Refrigerate for later use.
Blend with jui ce until dissolved.
(2) Vacuum seal to remove any trapped air.
Transfer to Texturas-style syringe.
Blend together until fully dissolved.
@ Expel juice from syringe, one droplet at a time, into calcium chloride bath.
@ Remove resulting beads from bath after 3 min.
@ Rinse beads in clean water bath.
@ Serve, or store beads in clean water.
@ To serve, fill 10 champagne flutes with 50 g each of cold ham consomme.
@ Spoon 10 g of melon juice beads into each flute; beads will remain suspended.
@ Garnish.
*(% of weight of melon juice)
THICKENERS 211
<
TOMATO WHEY BROTH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tomato water 100 g
seepage40
Whey, from goat milk ricotta 100 g
making
see page 248
lambda carrageenan 0.20 g
(Texturas brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.20 g
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste
Tomato vinegar to taste
see page 315 or lemon juice (optional)
from page 4-49
SCALING
100%
100%
0.2%
(0.7%)'
0.2%
(0.7%)*
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk together.
(3) Dry blend together.
o Blend into tomato-whey mixture until fu lly hydrated.
@ Refrigerate.
Season just before serving, or whey wi ll curdle.
@ Serve cold with fresh mozzarell a or on tomato salad.
*(% of total weight of tomato water and whey)
Yields230 g
TRUFFLE JUS IN SP I RED BY MARC VEYRAT
Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Shallots, finely minced 30g
Clarified butter 15g
Black peppercorns, ground 0.5g
Red port (dry) 40g
Red wine (dry) 40g
Mushroom jus, cold 100 g
see page 37
Konjac gum (Ticagel 0.54 g
Konjac HV, TIC Gums brand)
Black truffles, vacuum-packed, 35 g
frozen, thawed, then minced
Black truffle oil 7 g
Dark cocoa powder
Thyme essential oil
Salt
Sherry vinegar
from page 453
4g
0.05g
to taste
to taste
SCALING
30%
15%
0.5%
40%
40%
100%
0.54%
(0.3%)*
35%
7%
4%
0.05%
PROCEDURE
CD Cook together over low heat until tender, about 5 min.
(3) Add to pan of cooked shall ots.
o Simmer together for 2 min to cook off alcohol flavor.
@ Keep port base hot for later use.
Disperse gum into cold mushroom jus.
@ Whi sk mushroom jus into hot port base.
o Bring to simmer, and bl e nd continuously for 5 min to ensure konjac is fully dispersed.
Whisk into warm mushroom jus and wine mixture.
Remove jus from heat.
@ Season.
*(% of total weight of red port wine and mushroom jus)
BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH JUS DE ROll Yields 500 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beef tenderloin 400g 400% CD Vacuum seal together.
Rendered beef marrow or suet 40 g 40% (3) Cook so us vide in 53 c / 127 of bath to core temperature of 52 c / 126 of.
Brown beef stock 100g 100% o Combine.
see page 10
@ Bringjus to low simmer to dissolve solids.
160 Bloom gelatin 9g 9%
Fructose 2.5g 2.5%
D-Ribose Powder 1.75g 1.75%
(Solgar brand)
Cellulose gum 0.5g 0.5%
(CekollVD, CP Kelco brand)
Koji-Aji (Ajinomoto brand) 0.4 g 0.4%
Caramel coloring 0.2g 0.2%
Malic acid to taste Season jus, and serve with sliced beef tenderloin.
Salt to taste
from page 454
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUA L
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OLIVE OIL SPREAD Yields325g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
.....
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--
Olive oil 225g 100% o Blend with melted butte r.
~
--
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....
@) Blend again to Silky consistency .
....
Black pepper, ground Whisk into spread.
....
19 0.4%
.,.
Thyme essential oil (optional) 0.2g 0.09%
~
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.,.
(optional)

.... Fleur de sel to taste Season, and warm at room temperature for 20 min before serving.
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from page 451
....
-,.
WHITE GRAPE SYRUP
Yields430g
-

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
-
CD Jui ce with Champion jui cer or similar appliance. Muscat grapes 2 kg 500%
~
(or other white grapes)
o Clarify juice wit h pressure orvacuum filtration.
~
Rese rve 400 g.
~
Clarified grape juice, from 400g 100% @) Blend.
-
above
Adjust sweetness and acidity to taste.
~
Fructose 20g 5%
-

Malicacid 4.5g 1.3%
-
Cellulose gum 4g 1% Shear into juice mixture.
....
(CekollVD, CP Kelco brand)
o Vacuum seal, and refr igerate syrup.
--
....
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1.2g 0.3%
..,..
CP Kelco brand)
....
from page 452
....
XO SAUCE
--
Yi elds275g
"""'I
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
--
Brown pork stock 250g 125% CD Combine, and vacuum seal.
-'
see page 6
(3) Cook sous vide in 90 c / 194 OF bath for1 h .
....
-.J Cured ham, fin ely minced 60g 30%
Strain, and press soli ds to remove as much liquid as possibl e.
"""I
Ginger, peeled and 40g 20%
@) Meas ure 200 g of infused stock, and cool.
thinly sliced
~
Agave nectar (or honey) 10 9 5%
....
Infused pork stock, 200 g 100% Shear into reserved stock to hydrate.
from above
"7\
Cellulose gum 2g 1%
~
(CekollV, CP Kelco brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.5g 0.25%
~ CP Kelco brand)
~
Salted dri ed shrimp, minced 14g 7% Fry together until tender, about 2 min.
Ginger, minced 12g 6% o Blot excess oil wit h paper towels.
"""\
Dried scallop, minced 7g 3.5% Fold mixture into thicke ned stock base.
-"
~
Fermented black beans, 7g 3.5% Serve with Deep-Fried Custard (page 255), or cool and refrigerate.
---
minced
~
Garlic, minced 7g 3.5%
-
Dri ed red chili es, 3g 1. 5%
~
seeded and minced
--
Frying oil 5g 2.5%
-
--
from page 452
....
--,
-

~
~
~
THICKENERS
213
~
--:::
CARAMELIZED COCONUT CREAM
Yields550 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Coconut milk 350 g
Palm sugar 50 g
Baking soda 1.5 g
Coconut water 100 g
(canned orfresh)
Propylene glycol alginate (Protanal 1.75 g
Ester BV, FMC BioPolymer brand)
Young coconut meat 50 g
(frozen orfresh)
from page 450
SCALING PROCEDURE
350% CD Combine.
50% Pressure-cook mixture at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi forly.. h.
1.5% Cool completely; liquid may curdle as it cools, which is normal.
100% 0 Blend until sodium alginate is completely dissolved.
Combine with coconut milk mixture.
1.75%
(0.35%)*
50% Add to coconut milk mixture, and blend until smooth.
o Strain through fine sieve.
Refrigerate.
*(% aftatal weightafall ingredients)
PRESSURE-COOKED POLENTA WITH STRAWBERRY MARINARA Yields 800 g (l2 portions)
INGREDIENT
For the strawberry marinara:
Strawberries, thinly sliced
Heirloom tomato, peeled
Strawberry juice, clarified
Sweet onion, finely minced
White wine (dry)
Garlic, thinly sliced and blanched
Basil leaves, torn
Tarragon leaves, crushed
Strawberry marinara, from above
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Salt
Lime juice
For the corn husk consomme:
Water
Corn husks, fresh
Cellulose gum
(CekollVD, CP Kelco brand)
Fructose
Salt
Forthe polenta:
Clarified butter
Stone-ground polenta
Corn juice, clarified
Mascarpone
see page 226 (or store bought)
Ricotta salata, grated
Salt
from page 450
214
QUANTITY
220g
1909
185g
100g
100g
3g
2g
2g
250 g
0.6g
to taste
to taste
1 kg
125g
2g
to taste
to taste
15g
100 g
300g
20g
15g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
88%
76%
74%
40%
40%
1.2%
0.8%
0.8%
100%
0.24%
400%
50%
0.8%
(0.2%)*
4%
6%
40%
120%
8%
6%
CD Combine all ingredients in pot, and simmer, until reduced and thickened, about
90min.
Whisk gum into marinara base until fully dispersed.
Season marinara, and reserve.
o Line baking sheet with corn husks, and toast in 205 C / 400 OF oven for10 min.
Flip husks, and toast for another 5 min until dee p golden brown.
Combine husks with water, and simmer for 30 min to infuse. Strain and reserve.
o Bl end gum into consomme base, and season.
Saute polenta in butter until golden, 3- 4 min.
Cool completely.
@ Combine with toasted polenta, and vacuum seal.
@ Place in pressure cooker, and cover with water. Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
1 bar / 15 psi for 8 min.
@ Remove cooked polenta from bag, and whisk in mascarpone and ricotta.
@ Season with salt.
@ Divide among bowls, and garnish with strawberry marinara.
@ Pour some consomme over polenta at table.
*(% oftotol we;ghtofcorn husk consomme)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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CREAMED SPINACH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Baby spinach, cleaned 150g
Olive oil 5g
Salt to taste
Garlic confit, mashed 6g
see page 176
Olive oil 5g
Shall ots, finely minced 5g
Mascarpone 27g
see page 226 (or store-bought)
Low-fat milk 20g
Ultra-Sperse 3 0.5g
(National Starch brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, O.lg
CP Kelco brand)
Comte cheese, finely grated 109
Lemon zest, finely grated 0.5g
Black peppercorns, ground 0.2g
from page 455
SCALING
100%
3.3%
4%
3.3%
3.3%
18%
13.3%
0.3%
0.06%
6.7%
0.3%
0.1%
PROCEDURE
@ Saute unti l wilted, about 1 min.
o Season, and cool completely.
Transfer to colander, and press to remove excess liquid.
o Chop fin ely.
Saute until shallots are translucent.
@) Add spinach.
o Stir together, and cook for 3 min.
Remove spinach from heat.
Stir into spinach until completely incorporated.
@) Set spinach mixture as ide.
@ Dry blend Ultra-Sperse 3 and xanthan gum.
@ Whisk dry mixture into cold milk until fully hydrated.
@ Mix thickened milk into creamed spinach.
@ Toserve, fold Comte cheese into creamed spinach, and scatter some on top.
@ Season with lemon zest and black pepper.
@ Serve warm or cold.
Yields125g
WARM POTATO AND PISTACHIO PESTO SALAD Yields2 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Italian basil leaves 80g
Cilantro leaves 70g
Chives 70g
Scallion greens 70g
Garlic cloves, peeled 16 g
Extra virgin olive oil 190 g
Parmiggiano Reggiano, 100g
finely grated
Pistachios, peeled and toasted 100 g
Roasted-pistachio oil 40g
Spinach puree 30g
see page144
Lemonjuice 20g
Pistachio pes to, from above 900g
Salt to taste
Microcrystall ine cellulose 9g
(Avicel CG 200, FMC
BioPolymer brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1.8g
CP Kelco brand)
Fingerling potatoes, skin on 1 kg
Olive oil 100g
from page 453
SCALING PROCEDURE
80% @ Blanch in boiling water individua ll y until tender, about 2 min each.
70% 0 Cool in ice water and squeeze to remove excess moisture.
70% Reserve refrigerated.
70%
16%
190%
100%
100%
40%
30%
20%
900%
9%
(7%)*
1.8%
(0.2%)*
1,000%
100%
o Blanc in boilingwaterfor2 min. Drain and reserve.
Puree together with cooked herbs and blanched garlic until smooth.
@) Measure 900 g of pistachio pesto.
o Season.
Blend into pistachio pesto to fu ll y hydrate.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for at least 1 h to macerate.
@) Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 90 C / 194 OF bath until tender, about 45 min.
@ Remove from bag while sti ll warm.
@ Slice thinly.
@ Tosswith pesto as desired .
*(% afweight of pistachio pesta)
THICKENERS 215
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~
AGED RARE BEEF JUS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Aged beef chuck steak, 700 g
cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes
Bromelain capsules, 1.4 g
ground to fine powder
(optional, NOW Foods
brand)
Water, cold
Xanthan gum
Guargum
Aged beef jus,
from above
Monosodium glutamate
(MSG)
Salt
from page 56
100g
0.3g
O.lg
lOOg
2g
to taste
SHIITAKE MARMALADE
INGREDIENT
Shallots, finely minced
Shiitake mushrooms,
brunoise
Clarified unsalted butter
Garlic, brunoise
Rendered beef marrow
Tomato water
see page 40
Sherry vinegar
Brown beef jus
see page34
160 Bloom gelatin
Xanthangum
Black pepper, coarsely
ground
Salt
from page 57
QUANTITY
70g
26g
109
109
109
40g
20g
100g
3g
0.3 g
0.25g
to taste
SCALING
700%
1.4%
100%
0.3%
(0.75%)'
0.1%
(0.05%)'
100%
0.4%
Yields250 g
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal.
o Cook so us vide in 53 C / 127 of bath for 4 h.
Press against fine sieve to get juice, discarding meat.
@ Centrifuge juice at 27,500g for 30 min to yield aboutlOO g of aged beef jus, and rese rve.
Disperse gums in water.
Blend gum mi xt ure into aged beef jus until completelyfluid.
(2) Season jus.
Cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use. To serve, reheat if necessary, no higherthan
52 C / 125 OF, and serve.
' (% of total weight afwater and aged beef jus)
SCALING PROCEDURE
70% CD Saute over low heat until tender, about 20 min.
26%
10%
10%
10%
40%
20%
100%
3%
0.3%
0.25%
o Add to shall ot mixture, and reduce to 50 g to make marmal ade base.
Reserve.
@ Disperse gelatin into beef jus.
Heat to fully dissolve gelatin.
Blend into beef jus.
(2) Fold in reserved marmalade base.
Season marmalade.
@) Serve or cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Yields150 g
MAPLE VINEGAR GASTRIQUE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT
Maple syrup (Grade B)
Sherry vinegar
Cider vinegar
QUANTITY
175g
100g
20g
Microcrystalline cellulose 3 g
(Avicel CG-200, FMC
Biopolymer brand)
from page 512B
216
SCALING PROCEDURE
175% CD Whisk together.
100% 0 Vacuum seal.
20% Refrigerate until use.
3%
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
We used Avicel CG200 microcrys-
talline cellulose, made by FMC
Biopolymer.
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MUSHROOM KETCHUP
INGREDIENT
Yellow onions, thinly
sliced
Olive oil
Garlic, thinly sli ced
Ginger, thinly sliced
Crimini mushrooms,
thinly sliced
Maltvinegar
Darkale
Mushroom broth, from
above
Barley malt syrup
Cane vinegar
Molasses
Fish sauce
Freeze-dried shiitake
mushrooms (or dried
shiitake powder)
Sea salt
Honey
Horseradish, fresh ly
grated
Mace blades
Allspice berries
Freeze-dried coffee
powder
see page58
Ketchup, from above
Xanthangum
from page 513
QUANTITY
350g
53g
32g
7g
650g
155g
105g
70g
40g
40g
40g
34g
30g
15.5g
10 g
7g
4.2g
2.2g
(two berries)
0.6g
800g
1.6g
Yields 750 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
54% @ Saute until translucent, about 7 min.
8%
5% 0 Add to onions, and cook forl min.
1%
100% Combine with onion mixture and simmer, stirring frequently, until mushrooms are very tender
and liquid has evaporated, about 35 min.
24% @) Blend until smooth.
16% Pass through fin e sieve.
11 % Adjust seasoningto taste.
o Measure 800 g of ketchup.
6%
6%
6%
5%
4.5%
2.5%
1.5%
1%
0.6%
0.3%
0.1%
123% Blend togethe r until smooth, and refrigerate.
0.25%
(0.2%)*
*(% of total weightafketchup) .
APRICOT AND JASMINE PUREE Yields 250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Unripe apricot juice, fresh 315 g
Dried apricots, chopped 100 g
Xanthan gum
Osmanthus vinegar
Jasmine essential oil
from page 5173
0.5g
25g
O.lg
(one drop)
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
32%
0.15%
(0.77%)*
8%
0.03%
CD Blend together to fin e puree.
o Whisk into apricot puree.
Refrigerate until use.
*(% total weight afall other ingredients)
THICKENERS 217
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~
~
SEAWEED TAPENADE
INGREDIENT
Green olives,
finely minced
Dulse seaweed, soaked
in waterfor1 h, finely minced
Shallots, finely minced
Arame seaweed, soaked
in water for 1 h, finely minced
Hijiki seaweed, soaked
in waterfor1 h, finely minced
Capers, finely minced
Anchovy paste
Dijon mustard
lemon jui ce
Garlic, finely minced
Xanthangum
Salt
from page 527
QUANTITY
200g
100 g
75g
50 g
50g
25g
10 9
10 9
7g
5g
0.2g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% o Drain ingredie nts soaked in water.
(3) Reserve all ingredie nts separately.
50%
37.5%
25%
25%
12.5%
5% o Whisk together until smooth.
5% o Fold in reserved ingredie nts from above.
3.5%
2.5%
0.1%
Season tape nade.
@) Serve, or refrigerate until use.
TAMARIND PUREE Yields240g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tamarind paste 140g
see page 14S
Sour Indian plum 140g
(alubukhara)
Water 50 g
Coconut sugar 3.5g
(store-bought)
Salt 1.5g
Sherry vinegar 19
Xanthan gum 0.45g
from page 5282
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Vacuum seal together.
100%
36%
2.5%
1.1%
0.7%
0.32%
(O.2%)*
(3) Cook sous vide in 90 C/ 194 OF bath fo r1 h.
o Pass through fine sieve.
o Bl end with tamarind paste and plum mi xt ure.
Pass through fine sieve.
@) Refrigerate unti l use.
*(% o/totol weight o/cooked tamorind, plum, and water puree)
VO LUME 6 . KITC HEN MANUAL
Yields525g
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SOUTH CAROLINA BARBECUE SAUCE Yields380 g
INGREDIENT
Dijon mustard
lager beer
Cider vi negar
Tomato puree
Brown sugar
Worcestershire sauce
Black pepper, ground
Garlic powder
Cayenne pepper
Cider vinegar
Salt
fro m page 570
QUANTITY
300g
125 g
30g
30g
15g
109
1. 5g
1.5 g
to taste
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
42%
10%
10%
5%
3%
0.5%
0.5%
CD Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
o Simmer, stirring frequent ly to prevent sticking, until
redu ced to 380 g, about 20 min.
o Season sauce, and refrigerate unti l use.
KENTUCKY BARBECUE SAUCE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 300g
Cidervinegar 60g
Brown sugar 50g
Molasses 30g
Pineappl e juice (fres h) 30g
Bourbon (Wi ld Turkey 25g
brand)
Bacon fat 8g
Worcestershi re sauce 5g
Unsalted butter 8g
Bourbon (Wild Turkey 20 g
brand)
l emon juice to taste
Salt to taste
fro m page 571
SCALING
100%
20%
17%
10%
10%
8.5%
2.7%
2%
2.7%
6.7%
PROCEDURE
CD Mix toget her in heavy-bottom pot.
o Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking,
unti l reduced to 300 g, about 15 min.
o Blend into warm mi xt ure unti l full y e mulsifi ed.
o Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
NORTH CAROLINA (LEXINGTON-STYLE)
BARBECUE SAUCE Yi elds300 g
INGREDIENT
Cider vinegar
Distilled whi te vinegar
Ketchup (Heinz brand)
Maple syrup
Sugar
Chi li fl akes
Black pepper, ground
Salt
from page 571
QUANTITY
115g
115 g
70g
30 g
9.5g
7g
4.5g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
100%
61%
26%
8.5%
6%
4%
CD Mix togethe r in heavy-bottom pot.
o Simmer, stirring fre quentl y to prevent sticking, until
reduced to 300 g, about10 min.
o Season sauce, and refrigerate unt il use.
THIC KEN ERS
219
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HOUSE BARBECUE SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Maltvinegar
White beef stock
see page 6
Maplesyrup
Yellow onion, finely diced
Bourbon
Rendered bacon fat
Sherry vinegar
Smoked Hungarian paprika
pepper (or other dri ed,
smoked pepper), ground
Cayenne pepper, dried and
ground
Yellow mustard powder
Liquid hickory smoke
(Lazy Kettle brand)
50g
50g
25g
15g
13.5g
12g
5g
5g
0.5g
0.5g
O.lg
Barbecue sauce, from above 100 g
Tomato powder, freeze-dried 20 g
see page 157 (or store-bought)
Microcrystalline cellulose 1 g
(Avice I CG 200, FMC
BioPolymer brand)
Salt to taste
Red wine vinegar to taste
from page 4-49
50%
50%
25%
15%
13.5%
12%
5%
5%
0.5%
0.5%
0.1%
100%
40%
2%
KANSAS CITY BARBECUE SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 225g 100%
Tomato paste 40 g 17.8%
Water 40g 17.8%
White wine vinegar 40g 17.8%
Brown sugar 35g 15%
Bl ack pepper, ground 5g 2.2%
Chili powder 5g 2.2%
(McCormick brand)
Mustard powder 4.5g 2%
Salt 4.5g 2%
Cayenne pepper 4g 1.8%
Green Thai chili, minced 4g 1. 8%
Garlic powder 1 g 0.4%
Onion powder 0. 75g 0.3%
Ginge r, peeled and finely 0.25 g 0.1%
minced
Cumin powder O.lg 0.05%
Lemonjuice 5.5g 2.4%
Salt to taste
from page 568
o Combine in pot.
(3) Cook mixture over low heat until reduced to about100 g.
Puree until smooth.
@) Pass sauce base through fine sieve.
o Cool.
Shear into cold sauce base until evenl y distributed and smooth.
(2) Season sauce.
Yi elds 250 g
PROCEDURE
o Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
(3) Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, unt il
reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Season sauce, and refri gerate until use.
"''' ' MANIIAI
Yields120 g
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MEMPHIS BARBECUE SAUCE Yields250 g
INGREDIENT
Canned tomatoes
Cider vinegar
Lemonjui ce
Unsalted butter
Brown sugar
Worcestershire sauce
Chili powder
(McCormick brand)
Black pepper, ground
Onion powder
Tabasco sauce
Mustard powder
Cayenne pepper
Salt
Lemonjui ce
from page 570
QUANTITY
300g
80g
40g
40g
35 g
30g
2.5g
1. 5g
1. 5g
1 g
0.75g
0.5g
to taste
to tas te
SCALING
100%
27%
13%
13%
11 .5%
10%
0.85%
0.5%
0.5%
0.3%
0.25%
0.15%
PROCEDURE
CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
(3) Simmer, sti rring freque ntly to prevent sticking, until
reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Season sauce, and refrigerate unti l use.
NORTH CAROLINA (EASTERN REGION)
BARBECUE SAUCE
Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cider vinegar 200g 100% CD Mi x together in heavy-bottom pot.
Distilled white vinegar 200g 100% (3) Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking,
Maplesyrup 30g
15.5% until reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Chili flakes
10 9 5%
Sugar 5g 3%
Black pepper, ground 3g 1.5%
Salt to taste Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
from page 570
EAST TEXAS BARBECUE SAUCE Yi elds200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Yellow onions, finely 135 g
minced
Unsalted butter 40g
Garlic, finely minced 7g
Distilled vinegar 80g
Water 80g
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 50g
Ancho chili paste 40g
Worcestershire sauce 4g
Chili powder 2g
(McCormick brand)
Mustard powder 2g
Bay leaf, crushed 0.15g
Cayenne pepper 0.5g
Lemonjuice 13.5 g
Sugar 2g
Salt to taste
from page 569
SCALING
169%
50%
9%
100%
100%
62.5%
50%
5%
2.5%
2.5%
0.19%
0.6%
17%
2.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Sweat onions unti l translucent a nd tender in heavy-
bottom pot, about 7 min.
(3) Combi ne.
Add to onion mixture.
@) Simme r, stirring freque ntly to prevent sticking, until
reduced to 200 g, about 20 min.
Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
THICKENERS 221
Instead of soaking the nuts and
seeds for 12 h, you can alternatively
soften the m in a pressure cooke r at
a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for
45min.
222
MUGHAL CURRY SAUCE
INGREDIENT
Rawalmonds
Raw cashews
Poppy seeds
Shallots, thinly sliced
Ghee
Garlic, grated
Ginger, grated
Green Thai chili,
fin ely minced
Turmeric (fresh), grated
Nutmeg, grated
Bay leaf
Mace blade
Coriander seed
Black pepper
Cinnamon st ick
Clove
Cumin seeds
Green cardamom seeds
Raisins
Plain yogurt
Lime juice
Salt
fro m page'592
QUANTITY
160g
160 g
8g
200g
30g
6g
6g
5g
4g
2g
0.25g
1.6g
19
0.5g
0.5g
0.5g
0.5g
0.1 g
25g
8g
to taste
to taste
PEA VINE SALAD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pea vines, tips only 120g
Pickled le mons, drained 36g
see page 179
Cinnamon basil leaves 15 small
Lemon-infused olive oil 30g
Vermouth vinegar
109
Limejuice 5g
Microcrystalline 0.3g
cellulose (optional; Avicel
CG200, FMC Biopolymer
brand)
Black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5275
Yields 450 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
80% CD Cover with water, and soak in refrigerator fo r 12 h.
80% 0 Drain, gri nd together to fin e paste, and reserve.
4% Cover with water, and soak in refrigeratorfor12 h.
@ Drain, gri nd to fine paste, and reserve.
100%
15%
3%
3%
2.5%
2%
1%
0.3%
0.8%
0.5%
0.25%
0.25%
0.25%
0.25%
0.05%
12.5%
4%
Saute shall ots until t rans lucent and li ghtly golden.
Combine aro mat ics, and add to shallots.
o Saute until golden, about 5 min, and reserve.
Toast spices together in 170 C / 340 OF oven until
aromatic and golden, 10-15 min.
Grind to fi ne powder in blender or coffee grinder.
@ Add to sauteed mi xt ure.
@ Add raisins to sauteed mixture, and then add nut and
po ppy seed pastes.
@ Simmer for 25 min, and remove fro m heat.
@ Add to sauce.
@ Season.
@ Cool and refrigerate until use.
Yields 200 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Measure a nd reserve individuall y.
30%
25%
8.3%
4.2%
0.25%
(0.85%)*
o Whisk together to form vi naigrette.
Toss vinaigrette with reserved salad components.
@ Season salad.
*(% of total weight offirst three ingredients for vinaigrette)
VO LUM E 6 KITCH EN MANUAL
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MUSLIM CURRY SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 1l0g
Ghee 40g
see page 4213
Garlic, grated 7g
Ginger, grated 7g
Black peppercorns, 2g
toasted and ground
Cinnamon stick, 2g
toasted and ground
Cumin seeds, 2g
toasted and ground
Green cardamom seeds, 2g
toasted and ground
Mace blade, 0.8 g
toasted and ground
Cane sugar 4g
Nutmeg, grated 0.8g
Heavy cream 200g
Water 60g
Unsalted butter 16 g
lime juice 4g
Saffron threads 0.8g
Rosewater to taste
Salt to taste
from page 593
Yields350 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
55%
20%
3.5%
3.5%
1%
1%
1%
1%
0.4%
2%
0.4%
100%
30%
8%
2%
0.4%
<D Saute onions unti l trans lucent and lightly golden,
aboutlO min.
Add to onions, and saute until fragrant, about 5 min.
Toast in shallow pan in 170 O( / 340 OF oven until
aromati c and golden, 10-15 min.
e Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
Mix with ground spices and sauteed onion mixture.
Add to spiced onion mi xture.
o Simmer for 30 min, and remove from heat.
Whisk into sauce.
Season.
@ Cool and refrigerate until use.
These curry sauces have a tradi-
tional texture. They stick to meat
better if you add 0.2% xanthan
gum, relative to the total weight
of the sauce. Use a blender or
rotor-stator homoge nizerto blend
in the gum after the final step in the
recipe.
GREEN MANGO AND CASHEW SALAD Yields 256 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Green mango, fine 100g
julienne
Cashews, roasted 30g
Mint leaves, torn 8g
Cilantro stems and 4g
leaves, thinly sliced
Coconut water 60g
(fresh orcanned)
Fish sauce 40g
Distilled vinegar 199
lime juice 13g
Sugar 8g
Salt 1 g
Xanthangum 0.28g
from page 5169
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% <D Measure and reserve individually.
30%
8%
4%
60%
40%
19%
13%
8%
1%
0.28%
(0.2%)*
Blend together until smooth to make dressing, and reserve.
Toss green mango with reserved salad elements, and dress to taste.
*(% total weight of six preceding ingredients)
THICKENERS 223
The traditional way to toast spices
in Indian cuisine is in a dry skillet.
We prefer an oven for more
control, but even with this method,
you need to watch that you don't
burn your spices.
Curries are by no means exclusive
to India. Southeast Asia has its
yellow, green, and red curries;
there are adaptations from Iran to
Britain to Japan. But they all share
the basics: meat, seafood, or just
loads offlavorful vegetables in a
fragrant, spicy sauce, usual ly
served with rice.
224
eOAN CURRY SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Sweet onions, 120 g 100%
thinly sliced
Ghee 35g 29%
Tomato puree 60g 50%
see page 55
Garlic, finely grated 7g 5.8%
Ginger, finely grated 7g 5.8%
Black peppercorns 5g 4%
Green cardamom seeds 4.2g 3.5%
Turmeric, grated 4g 3.3%
Fennel seeds 3.4 g 2.8%
Coriande r seeds 2.4 g 2%
Cumin 2.4g 2%
Yel low mustard seeds 2g 1.7%
Cane vinegar 40g 33%
Raw cane sugar 12g 10%
Bay leaf 0.5g 0.4%
Limejuice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 595
KERALA CURRY SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Shallots, finely minced 120 g 85%
Ghee 35g 25%
Green Thai chili, minced 12 g 8.5%
Garlic, finely grated 10 g 7%
Ginger, finely grated 10 9 7%
Curry leaves 5g 3.5%
Bay leaf 0.5g 0.4%
Black peppercorns 14 g 10%
Cumin seeds 4g 2.8%
Green cardamom seeds 3g 2%
Star anise 1.4 g 1%
Cinnamon stick
19 0.7%
Cloves 19 0.7%
Coconut milk 140 g 100%
Salt to taste
from page 596
VO LU ME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yields200 g
PROCEDURE
o Saute onions unti l trans lucent and golden, about
10 min.
Add to onions.
Saute mixture for 5 min.
o Add to onion and tomato mi xt ure, and saute until
fragrant, about 10 min.
Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 c / 340 OF oven
until golden and aromatic, 10-15 min.
Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
o Combine with sauce.
Simmerfor45 min.
Season sauce.
@ Cool a nd refrigerate until use.
Yields 350 g
PROCEDURE
o Saute until shallots are translucent and golden, about
10 min.
Add to shallot mi xt ure, saute for 5 min, and reserve.
Mix together thoroughly.
o Toast in sha llow pan placed in 170 C / 340 OF oven
unti l golde n and aromatic, 10-15 min.
Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
Add to shall ot mi xt ure, and saute until fragrant, about
3min.
o Add to shallot mixt ure, and simmerfor45 min.
Season sauce.
Cool and refrigerate until use.
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MASALA CURRY SAUCE
INGREDIENT
Sweet onions, thinly
sliced
Ghee
Tomato puree
see page 55
Curry leaves
Coconut (fresh), grated
Garlic, finely grated
Ginger, finely grated
Dried bird's eye chili,
crushed
Fenugreek seeds
Coriander seeds
Fennel seeds
Water
Tamarind paste
see page145
Turmeric (fresh), grated
Lime juice
Salt
from page 598
QUANTITY
200g
30g
250g
2.5g
60g
109
109
3.5 g
2.4g
2g
2g
160g
60g
9g
to taste
to taste
RED-EYE GRAVY
INGREDIENT
Sweet onions, thinly sli ced
Rendered pork fat
Star anise
Brown pork stock
see page 6
Maple syrup (Grade B)
Coffee beans
QUANTITY
80g
30g
0.2g
SOOg
15g
2Sg
Microcrystalline cellulose 0.2 g
(Avicel CC-200, FMC
Biopolymer brand)
Smoked salt to taste
from page 5102
Yields300g
SCALING PROCEDURE
80% 0 Saute onions until amber and translucent, about 25 min.
12%
100%
1%
24%
4%
4%
1.4%
1%
0.8%
0.8%
64%
24%
3.6%
o Add to onions, and saute for1 min.
Reserve warm.
o Grind together to fine paste.
@) Add to onion and tomato mixture, and saute for 3 min.
Reserve warm.
(2) Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 C / 340 OF oven until aromatic and golden, 10-15 min.
Grind to fine powde r in blender or coffee grinder.
Stir into warm onion and tomato mixture.
@ Saute until aromatic.
@ Add to mixture.
@ Simmerfor 45 min.
@ Season sauce. .
@ Cool and refrigerate until use.
Yields75g
SCALING
16%
6%
0.04%
100%
3%
5%
0.04%
(0.27%)*
PROCEDURE
o Saute onions until tender and golden, about 15 min.
o Add to onions.
Continue cooking over lowe r heat until onions are dark amber and star anise is fragrant.
o Degl aze.
Reduce to 75 g, and remove gravy from heat.
Add to gravy, and cover.
(2) Infuse for 5 min.
Strain, discarding coffee beans.
Blend into gravy to thicken.
@ Season and serve, or refrigerate until use.
*(% of total weight after reduction)
THICKENERS
225
MILKS AND CREAMS
CD Select a recipe. Some of our favorites appear in the table below.
Proportions are relative to the main liquid. for example, use 80 g of
tigernuts for every 100 g of water to make chufa milk.
Blend liquids with thickeners. Dissolve acidifiers or rennet in a small
amount of water, milk, or cream before adding them to the liquid.
Best Bets for Making Milks and Creams
Recipe liquid (scaling) Thickeners
almond milk water 100% almonds, finely ground
sweet almond oil 2% sugar
clotted whole milk* 100%
cream
heavy cream 50%
n/ a
chufa milk water 100% chufas (tigernuts)
buttermilk butter whey 100% lactic acid
see page 4286
heavy cream 20% lambda carrageenan
skyr low-fat mi lk 100% live culture
(Yogotherm brand)
lactic acid
yogurt whole milk 100% li ve culture (Yogotherm
brand)
mascarpone heavy cream 100% ascorbic acid
Hydrate the thickeners. Soa k or heat as indicated in the Procedure
column of the table.
@) Sieve if needed to remove lumps. Nut and legume milks should be sieved
after steeping.
(scaling) Procedure
60% soak 24 h, and sieve
1%
combine liquids, and pour in open container; steam
or cook in 80 C / 176 OF bath for 1 h undisturbed;
refrigerate 24 h; skim clotted cream from surface
80% soak 12 h, and sieve
0.4% season with salt to taste, and allow to rest overnight;
adjust amount of heavy cream to taste
0.2%
1.0% heat milk to 82 C / 180 OF, and cool to 42 C / 108 Of;
add culture and acid, pour into sanitized containers,
0.2%
and incubate at 45 C / 113 Of for 5 h; drain for 2 h
1% heat milk to 82 C / 180 OF, and cool to 42 C / 108 Of;
add culture, pour into sanitized containers, and incu-
bate at 45 C / 113 OF for 8 h; drain 12 h for thick, Greek-
style texture; for firmer yogurt, scald milk at 85 C /
125 Ffor 25 min, and cool before adding culture
0.2% combine, heat cream to 90 C / 190 OF, cool for
(or glucono delta-lactone) 30 min, wrap in cheesecloth, and hang, refrigerated,
for12 h
from page 4S6 *(whole milk used in clotted cream should be unhamogenized for best results)
LOW-FAT "CREAM"
INGREDIENT
Sweet whey powder
Cellulose gum
(Cekol LV, CP Kelco brand)
Lambda carrageenan
{Texturas brand)
Skim milk
from page 4S7
226
QUANTITY
Sg
0.7g
0.2g
200g
SCALING PROCEDURE
2.S% CD Dry blend.
0.3S%
0.1%
100% Shea r powder mi xture into milk until fully hydrated.
Refrigerate.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yields200 g
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INSTANT CREME FRAICHE
INGREDIENT
Heavy cream (free of
stabilizers orthickeners)
Lambda carrageenan
Lactic acid
Water
from page 457
QUANTITY
400g
1.6 g
1.6 g
8g
HERBED CHEESE SPREAD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Heavy cream 75 g
(free of stabi li zers or thickeners)
Whole milk
Locust bean gum (POR/ A2
Powder, TIC Gums brand)
Lambda carrageenan
(Texturas brand)
Fresh goat cheese
Garlic confit, pureed
see page 176
Chives, minced
Parsl ey, minced
Tarragon, thinly sliced
Lemonjuice
Bl ack pepper, cracked
Salt
from page 457
SOY MILK
INGREDIENT
Dried organic soy beans
Water
Water,cold
Water, boiling
from page 458
25g
19
0.2g
30g
10 9
3 g
2g
19
to taste
to taste
to taste
QUANTITY
250g
250g
750 g
425g
Yields400g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% G) Heat heavy cream to 40 o( / 104 of .
(3) Bl end in carrageenan to fully hydrate, and remove from heat.
0.4%
Di ssolve lactic acid in water. 0.4%
2% o Stir lactic acid solution into warm cream, and refrigerate for10 min before using.
Pass through fin e sieve, and refrigerate until needed.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% G) Dry blend locust bean gum and carrageenan.
(3) Disperse into cold mi lk and cream.
Yields125 g
33%
1.3%
(7%)*
Bring mi xt ure to boil wh il e blending to hyd rate.
o Remove from heat.
Locust bean gum and lambda
carrageenan are often combined
0.27%
(0.2%)*
Strain and cool.
to create commercial cream cheese
in the United States.
40%
7.5%
4%
2.7%
1.3%
Add to heavy cream mi xt ure.
o Bl end toget he r until homogeni zed to make spread base.
Fold into cheese spread.
Season, and refrigerate unt il use.
*(% of total weight affirst two ingredients)
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% G) Vacuum seal together.
100% (3) Soak, refri gerated, until beans absorb all water, about 14 h.
Remove from bag.
300% 0 Puree soaked soybeans in food processor.
Add cold water.
Blend for 10 min until text ure is creamy and grainy.
170% 0 Pour into saucepan, and bring mi xture to simmer.
Add boiling water to soybeans; surface should start to foam.
Stir until foam subsides, about 20 min.
@ Strain mi xture through fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and collect soy milk.
@ Wrap mi xt ure in cheeseclot h.
@ Wring cloth ti ghtl y to extract all re maining soy mil k.
@ Vacuum seal soy mil k, and refrigerate.
THICKENERS
Yields1 kg
227
,...-
TOASTED RICE MILK
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Arborio rice 50g
Water 1.5 kg
Long grain ri ce 150g
Fresh pan dan leaves 30g
(optional)
Sugar 60g
from page 459
TOASTED ALMOND MILK
INGREDIENT
Water
Marcona almonds, toasted
(or regular almonds, skinless)
Sugar
Sweet almond oil
Salt
Almond extract (optional)
from page 459
QUANTITY
750g
300g
15 g
15 g
9g
to taste
HORCHATA (CHUFA MILK)
INGREDIENT
Chufas (tigernuts)
Water
Water
Sugar
Whey protein isolate
(optional)
from page 459
QUANTITY
450g
as needed
250g
20g
l .4g
SCALING
33%
1, 000%
100%
20%
40%
SCALING
250%
100%
5%
5%
3%
SCALING
100%
56%
4.4%
0.3%
--

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Yields1.5 kg __
PROCEDURE
@ Arrange dry rice in thin, even layer on baking sheet.
Toast in 175 C / 350 of oven until evenly golden, about 45 min.
Remove from oven.
o Combine all rice and 1 kg of water in pot.
Soak rice for 3 h at room temperature.
o Add to rice and water, if using.
([) Simmer mixture for30 min.
Remove from heat.
Add reserved 500 g of water, and puree coarsely to release starch.
@ Strain through cheesecloth-lined fin e sieve to extract 1.5 kg, about 1 h. To avoid
unwanted solids, do not press.
@ Whisk into rice milk until dissolved, and cool.
PROCEDURE
@ Blend into coars e puree.
Refrigerate for 24 h.
Blend chill ed puree until smooth.
o Strain through fine sieve to extract a lmond milk.
Add sparingly to milk.
o Vacuum seal almond milk, and refrigerate until needed.
PROCEDURE
@ Cover nuts with fresh water.
Soak nuts in refrigerator for 12 h.
Drain nuts, and discard water.
o Combine with softened nuts.
Bl end to fine, smooth texture.
o Pass milk through fine sieve.
([) Vacuum seal milk, and refrigerate until needed.
Yields 650 g
Yields200 g
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LEMON STRIPS ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 50 g (50 strips)
- -...
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Glycerin 3.75 g
Lemon essential oil 2.55 g
Deionized water 225g
Maltodextrin DEB 7.95g
Algin 400F (TIC Gums brand) B.5Bg
Viscarin TP 3B9 (FMC 3.1Bg
BioPolymer brand)
Aspartame 0.12g
from page 461
22R
SCALING
1.67%
1.13%
100%
3.53%
3.B1%
1.41%
0.05%
PROCEDURE
@ Blend together to make lemon water, and reserve.
Dryblend.
Whisk slowly into lemon water until completely incorporated.
o Vacuum seal or refrigerate for B h to remove trapped air bubbles.
Spread mixture onto acetate sheet using film appli cator or improvised dowel with
a spacer to form very thin and even coating.
o Dry at room temperature for about 24 h.
([) Slice hardened film into 2 cm by 3 cm / y., in by 1 y.. in strips.
Peel off strips from sheet.
Store in airtight container.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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EDIBLE FILMS
CD Select a texture and a corresponding fi lm formula. The Best Bets for
Edible Films table below li sts several good options that range from tender
to brittle.
(3) Mix thickeners into cold liq uid to create a slurry. Quantities in the table
are given relative to the weight of the liqu id. For example, if you are
making a clear, brittle tomato water film, use 10 g of Pure-Cote B790 for
every 100 g of tomato water.
Hydrate fully. Times and temperatures are indi cated in the table be low.
For step-by-step instructions, see page 426.
Best Bets for Edible Films
Texture Clarity Formula (sca ling)*(OC)
@) Cast into a film onto a flat, level surface. Keep the liquid cold, so that it
is more viscous and coats the surface more easily. Films are typically cast
in a layer 0.5-1 mm I YG.-YJ, in thick; crisps and tui les are usually thicker,
1.5-2 mm I Y,6- YJ, in. For more on making films, see the example recipes
on the next two pages.
Dehydrate at the lowest humidity and temperature feas ible. Dehydrating
at 30 c I 86 OF is ideal. Slow, low-temperatures drying produces films
that have an even texture; fi lms often crack when dried to quickly and
warp when exposed to humidity. The greater the degree of dehydration,
the less flexible and more brittle the film becomes. For more information
on dehydrating techniques, see page 2-428.
Hydrate
(oF)
(min) Example use
tender clear Methocel SGA 150** 0.75% refrigerated 8 h edible wrappers, pa per coating films
160 Bloom gelatin 0.75% 60 140 5
sugar 15% 95 203 3
HM pectin 2%
opaque agar 1.0% 95 203 3
glycerin 1.2%
xa nthan gum 0.2%
crisp clear low-acyl ge ll an 0.5% 95 203 3 flavored crisps, delicate tui les
propyl e ne glycol alginate 0.5% 60 140 5
160 Bloom gelatin 0.3%
maltodextrin DE 8 15% cold
sugar or isoma lt 10%
opaque Methocel E4M** 1.25% refrigerated 8h crispy cream cheese (see page 229)
brittle clear Pure Cote B790 10% 100 212 15 Grant Achatz's pineapple glass wrapper for
bacon powder (see page 187)
opaque N-ZorbitM 20% cold seasoned glasses, fruit and vegetable glasses
glucose powder 15.0% 95 203 3
LM pectin 1.5%
agar 0.6%
from page 460 *(set weight of liquid to 700%); **lfordispersal instructions, see page 424)
CRISPY CREAM CHEESE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields100g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 100g
Methylcellulose E4M 6g
(Dow brand)
Cream cheese, 200g
at room temperature
Salt 1.5g
from page 463
SCALING
50%
3%
(2%)*
100%
0.75%
PROCEDURE
CD Bring water to boil.
(3) Shear in methylcellulose, and simmer until completely dispersed, at least 3 min.
Pour mixture onto cream cheese.
@) Add salt, and blend.
Cool cream cheese mixture to 10 c I 50 OF.
@) Spread onto silicone mat in layer 2 mm I Y,6 in thick.
0) Dehydrate atSO C/ 120 OF unti l crisp and brittle, 10-12 h.
Allow to cool completely before using.
*(% of total weight afwater and cream cheese)
THICKENER S 229
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SPICED HONEY GLASS
Yields36Sg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Honey, spray-dried
(store-bought!
Trehalose or sugar
Water
180g
180g
4Sg
Coriander seeds, toasted 4 g
Sichuan peppercorns 2.5 g
Fennel seeds 2 g
Black pepper, coarsely 1.5 g
ground
from page 5123
100%
100%
25%
2%
1.5%
1%
0.8%
CD Combine and heat to 160 c / 320 of, stirring constantly.
o Pour onto 27.5 cm by 40 cm / 11 in by 16 in sil icone mat, and cool until hardened.
Break glass into shards, and grind to fine powder.
@ Pass powder through fine sieve onto baking sheet lined with silicone mat, forming layer
1.5 mm / Y'6 in thick, and reserve.
Crush spices together to make coarse powder.
() Use fine sieve to remove fine particles.
o Sprinkle coarse particles evenly over tray of sugar powde r.
Bake in 150 C / 300 OF oven until completely melted, about 6 min.
Cut into 2.5 cm by 7.5 cm / 1 in by 3 in pieces while sti ll hot and pliable.
@ Store in cool, dry place.
DRIED CHERRY AND HAZELNUT NOUGATINE
Yields240g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sugar SOg
Trehalose (or isomalt) SOg
Glucose syrup DE 40 25g
Water 20g
Hazelnut butter SOg
Unsalted butter 109
Dried sour cherries, 20g
minced
Hazelnuts, peeled and l Sg
minced
Salt 2.2g
Baking powder 1.5 g
from page 5270
SCALING
100%
100%
50%
40%
100%
20%
40%
30%
4.4%
3%
PROCEDURE
CD Heat together to 150 C / 300 OF to make syrup.
o Whisk into syrup, and heat mi xture to 170 c / 340 OF.
Fold re maining ingredients into mixture.
@ Pour onto silicone mat. Cover with second sil icone mat, and roll mixture out into layer1 mm /
)(. in thick.
Cool until brittle, break into irregular shards, and serve, orstore in cool, dry place.
EDIBLE WRAPPERS ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 130 g (65 wrappers)
INGREDIENT
Water
200 Bloom gelatin
Glycerin
from page 462
QUANTITY
400g
6g
0.2g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
1.5%
0.05%
CD Combine to bloom gelatin.
o Heat solution; whisk constantly to dissolve gelatin.
Transfer 6 g of solution to 9 cm / 3Y> in diameter petri dish with pipette.
@ Swirl solution to coat dish bottom evenly and eliminate air bubbles.
Repeat wit h remai ning solution in individual petri dishes, one for each wrapper.
() Rest in warm place until resulting films are completely dry, 20-24 h.
o Peel offwrappers, and store in airtight container.
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ONION ARLETTE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sweet onion juice 300g
(from about
500 g oni ons)
Trehalose (or isomalt or 130 g
sugar)
Glucose syrup DE 40 70g
Puff pastry dough 500g
(store-bought or
fresh-made)
Clarifi ed unsalted butter, 150g
melted
from page 5-262
BBQ CARAMELS
SCALING
100%
43.3%
23.3%
167%
50%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, and cook at155 C / 310 of, until light golden caramel forms.
o Pour hot onion syru p onto silicone mat.
Cool and harden at room te mperature, abo ut 20 mi n.
o Grind to fin e powder, an d reserve resulting o ni on sugar.
Roll out dough in rectangle 0.5 cm / 'A in thick.
Cut dough into five progressively small er rect angl es.
Yields500g
(2) Stack in layers, brushing with butter and dusting with thin coat of onion sugar between each
layer.
Fold and roll dough into cylinder, and then pinch top to give dough a bulb shape.
@) Freeze until very hard, about 45 min.
@ Cut dough with meat slicer into slices 1 mm /){. in t hi ck.
@ Place slices betwee n two sil icone mats, and pass rolling pin over top until sli ces are nearly
translucent; they shoul d retain t he ir shape.
@ Dust flattened slices with more onion sugar to fully coat surfaces.
@ Transferto sili cone mat- lined baking sheet.
@ Bake in 170 C / 340 OF oven for 7 min.
@ Dust with additional onion sugar, and bake atsame temperature for 2- 3 min.
@ Cool, and res erve in cool, dry place.
Yields 750 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
KC Masterpi ece honey 500g
barbecue sauce
Sugar 175 g
Salt 109
HM pectin (Brown Ribbon HV, 4.7g
Obipektin brand)
Glucose syrup DE40 175g
Water 175g
Unsalted butter, cubed 110 g
Liquid hi ckory smoke 5g
(Lazy Kettle brand)
Edible wrappers, from above as needed
from page 462
286%
100%
5.7%
2.7%
(0.53%)*
100%
100%
63%
3%
Q) Reduce sauce over low heat to 250 g.
o Reserve.
Blend.
o Combine with sugar mi xture in pot.
Heat to 145 C / 293 of.
Stir into reduced barbecue sauce to fo rm
carame l base.
(2) Heat to 135 C / 275 of, and re move from heat.
Stir into caramel base quickly while base is sti ll
hot.
@) Pour into mold 1.5 cm / % in thick.
@ Refrigerate until solidified.
@ Cut caramel sheet with scissors into desired
shapes.
@ Wrap caramels individuall y.
@ Store in cool, dry place.
*(% of total weight of reduced honey barbecue sauce, sugar, glucose,
water, and unsalted butter)
THICKENERS
You can substitute our House
Barbecue sauce (see page 220) or
one of the regional sauces (see
page 566).
For the texture of the caramel to be
correct, the sugar content should be
88 Brix as measured on a refracto-
mete r. Extend the cooking time as
needed to reach the correct Brix
level.
231
COOKED WHOLE EGGS
Best Bets for Cooking Whole Eggs
Cook
Recipe (Oc) (OF) (min) Equipment See page
pasteurized egg 55 131 2h water bath ].1 90
onsen egg (Japanese slow-cooked egg) 62-68 144-154 35 water bath 476
perfect soft-boiled egg 100 212 3 water baths and 479
64 147 35
blowtorch
perfect hard-boiled egg 79 174 35 water bath 476
fast hot-spring egg 75 167 13 water bath
adapted from Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot
fast hot-spring quail egg 70 158 7 water bath
adapted from Fe rran Adria
Arzak egg blossom 85 185 12 water bath 232
from page 478
LIQUID CENTER DUCK EGG Yields 340 g
The egg white needs more heat
to coagul ate than t he yolk does,
so first use bOi li ngwaterto setthe
white firmly enough that it ca n
be peeled later. Then use a low
temperature water bath to cook the
cente r. If substituting chi cken eggs,
which usually are small e r than duck
eggs, yo u may need to reduce the
initial boiling time to 3-3Y2 min.
Add 2 min to the cooking time
if using duck eggs.
This recipe uses a si ngle step of
12 min in an 85 C/ 185 OF bath, but
you could also cook the eggs in a
two-stage manner (as when making
soft- boiled eggs as described on
the previous page): boil them
forl-3 min, and then cook in a
40-64 C / 104-147 OF water bat h.
232
INGREDIENT
Duck eggs (shell ed)
Red beet jui ce
Red port wine
Flaky sea salt
Constructed red wine
glaze, warmed
see page 24
from page 5220
QUANTITY
320g
(four eggs)
800g
350g
to taste
65g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Immerse eggs in boiling water for 4 min.
o Cool in ice-water bath for 20 min.
250%
109%
20%
Cook in 62 C/ 143 of bath for about30 min.
@) Cool again in ice-water bath.
Crack eggshell s gently all over with back of spoon,
but do not remove shells.
@) Reserve.
(2) Combi ne, reduce to 750 g, and cool.
Immerse eggs in reduction, and soak in refrigerator
for 12 h.
Drain, and then gently peel off eggshells.
@ Re heat eggs in 62 C/ 143 OF bath fo r about25 min.
@ Season.
@ Garnish with glaze.
EGG BLOSSOM I NSPIRED BY JUAN MAR l ARZAK Yields four eggs
INGREDI ENT
Whole eggs
Duckfat
Extra-virgin olive oil
Truffle oil
Salt
from page 480
QUANTITY
fo ur large
50g
25g
109
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
CD Lin e small bowl wit h pl ast ic wrap.
100% 0 Combin e fats, and brush center of plastic wrap.
50% Break one egg in center of bowl.
20% @) Season with salt and additional fat.
Gather edges of plastic wrap together carefull y.
@) Twistwrapped mi xt ure into ball , and tie off top of
wrap.
(2) Repeat procedure with re maining eggs.
Cook eggs in 85 C / 185 OF water bath for12 min.
Cut away plastic wrap to serve.
VOLUME 6 . KI TCH EN MANUAL
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DEVILED EGGS
INGREDIENT
Whole eggs, in shell
Reserved egg whites, from
above
Champagne vinegar
Dijon mustard
Extra-virgin olive oil
Walnut oil
QUANTITY
200g
(four large)
145g
25g
109
100g
20g
Tarragon, thinly sli ced 4 g
Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste
Cayenne pepper
Salt
Bottarga di Muggine
(store-bought)
from page 481
to taste
to taste
20g
Yields four portions
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Cook in 72 "C/ 162 "F bath for35 min.
(3) Plunge in ice water.
Peel, and separate yolks from whites.
o Set yo lks aside.
@) Retain whites for mayonnaise.
72.5% @ Blend.
12.5%
5%
50%
10%
2%
10%
o Drizzle slowly into egg white mixture while
blending.
Emulsify fu ll y to make mayonnaise.
Fold in.
@ Season mayonnaise.
@ Smear on each plate, and garnish each plate with
one yolk.
@ Grate finely over each plate.
At 72 "C / 162 "F, the yolk sets hard
e nough that it remains spherical
rather than flattening from its own
weight-as it does at lower temper-
at ures (see page 476). These yolk
balls have a wonderful consistency.
They can be used as a kind of
dumpling in soups or other dishes.
..:: CUSTARDS
The perfect custard temperature depends on three things: whether you use
yolks or whole eggs; the proportion of egg to other liquid; and the final core
temperature. Using the table below, you can achi eve any result you want.
Custard Textures
Cook (Oe)
(OF)
Egg
(seal
10%
30%
50%
70%
90%
110%
130%
150%
200%
250%
70
158
75
167
Whole
80
176
from page 484 "(set weight of liquid to 700%)
83
181
88
190
GElS
Note that "milk," "quiche," and other terms in the table be low refer to the
resulting texture, not to ingredients or a specific recipe.
70
158
75
167
80
176
k
83
181
88
190
233
~ ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
PRESERVED AND PICKLED EGGS
<D Select a recipe. See the table Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs
below for suggestions.
o Make the brine or curing agent. Prepare enough to completely cover all
eggs. Weights in the table are scaled to be proportional to the weight of
the principal liquid. For example, to make a dozen century eggs, weigh
out e nough water to coverthe eggs completely, and then add 9 g of salt
and 4.2 g of sodium hydroxide for every 100 g of water.
Submerge very fresh whole eggs in brine or cure, and refrigerate
for the time indicated. Note that all ofthe recipes here, exceptthe
vinegar-coagulated egg, require that t he eggs remain in the'shell
when immersed in brine.
@) Cook (optional). For a more familiar texture, lightly cook the cured eggs,
using the time and temperature indi cated in the table.
Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs
Recipe
century egg
salt-coagulated egg
vinegar-coagulated egg
miso-cured egg yolks
from page 482
CENTURY EGG
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 1 kg
Salt 90g
Sodium hydroxide (lye) 42g
Whole duck eggs, 450g
washed and checked for (about six)
cracks
from page 483
Cook (optional)
Coagulant (scaling) Brine/ cure (days) (' C) (' F) (min)
water 100% brine 20 68 154 35
salt 9%
soak 2
sodium hydroxide (lye) 4.2%
dry 5
water
salt
vinegar
red miso
sake
sugar
SCALING
100%
9%
4.2%
45%
100% brine 28
32%
100% brine %-1
100% cure 3
18.5%
16%
PROCEDURE
<D Whisk together until fully dissolved to make brine.
o Vacuum seal eggs with brine.
Refrigerate in bag for 20 d.
@) Remove from bag, and soak in fresh water for 2 d.
Air-dry at room temperature for 5 d.
68 154
62 144
n/ a
Optionall y, cook in 68 ' C/ 154 ' F bath for35 min. Cool and peel.
o If des ired, garnish with pickled mushrooms a nd seaweed vinegar.
35
20
See page
below
below
236
Yields400g
PICKLED QUAIL EGGS I NSPIRED BY HERVE THIS Yields150 g
INGREDIENT
Quail eggs
Champagne vinegar
Water
Sugar
Salt
Black peppercorns
White peppercorns
Pink peppercorns
Yellow mustard seeds
Celery seeds
Dill seeds
Aleppo pepper flakes
from page 483
"'A
QUANTITY
200g
(aboutlO)
500g
250g
135 g
8g
1 g
19
0.5g
19
19
19
O.lg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% <D Crack open; reserve whole quail eggs individually.
250% 0 Combine to make brin e, and bring to simmer.
125%
67.5%
4%
0.5%
0.5%
0.25%
0.5%
0.5%
0.5%
0.05%
Combine.
@) Pour hot brine over spice mixture, and cool.
Strain cold brine into large sous vide bag.
@ Slide eggs gently, one by one, into brine-filled bag, while taking care to avoid coll isions
that could burst t heir yolks.
o Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for12 h.
Drain eggs, and cook in 62 'C/ 144 ' F bath for15 min.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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SEPARATED EGG GELS
CD Select a texture. The table below lists our recommendations.
@) Measure the yolk, white, liquid, and salt. Scale the ingredients relative to
the weight of the eggs (for example, use 2 g of salt for every 100 g of egg
yolk in a sliceable yolk).
Best Bets for Separated Egg Gels
Blend eggs with liquid, and whisk in seasoning. Eggs for the two-stage
fried egg should just be separated. Forthe two-stage baked eggs, blend
the whites with the cream and keep the yolks whole.
@) Cook. Appropriate methods, times, and temperatures are indicated,
along with references to example recipes.
Texture
Eggyolk
(scali ng)
Eggwhite
(scal ing) liquid
Salt
(scaling) (scaling)
Cook S __________________________________ ee
Method (' C) (' F) (min) page
creme anglaise 100% n/ a mi lkor 400% 5.5% sous vide 80 176 12 below
cream
egg yolk droplets 100% n/ a n/ a 1.1 % open container in 77 171 2 236
sous vide bath
sliceable yolk 100% n/ a n/ a 2% sous vide 70 158 1 h 238
creme brCllee 100% n/ a cream 200% 5% steam oven 79 174 35 237
mi lk 175%
egg white custard n/a 100% cream 110% 3.5% steam oven 83 181 15
mi lk 110%
egg white droplets n/ a 100% n/ a 1.1% stove top 74 165 3 236
two-stage baked eggs white 100% cream 35% 1.4% steam oven 74 165 30
yolk 1 per serving n/ a to taste 64 147 20
Nathan's two-stage white 1 per serving n/ a to taste buttered ring 79 174 15 2
fried egg yolk 1 per serving
mold, steam oven
63 145 25
~ from page 485
~
~
CAULIFLOWER CREME ANGLAISE Yields300g
......
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INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Cauliflower, thinly sliced 400g
Whole mil k 500g
Cauliflower milk, from above 250 g
Egg yolks 63 g
Nutmeg, freshly grated
Salt
to taste
to taste
.:: from page 489
SCALING PROCEDURE
160% CD Roast in 160 ' C / 320 ' F oven unt il deep amber, about 25- 30 min. Alternatively, deep-fry
in 190 ' C / 375 ' F oil for 5-6 min.
o Cool completely.
200% Vacuum seal with roasted caul iflower.
@) Cookin85 'C/ 185 ' Fbathfor1 h to infuse milk.
Remove from bag, and strain.
100%
25%
o Measure 250 g of cauliflower mil k.
o Cool milk to room temperature.
Blend together until smooth, and vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 80 ' C / 176 ' F bath for 35 min.
@ Remove from bag, and cool.
@ Add additional cauliflower milk or heavy cream to achieve desired viscosity.
@ Vacuum seal and refrigerate.
@ To serve, reheat creme anglaise in 70 ' C / 158 ' F bath for 10 min.
@ Pour into serving container.
@ Season.
GEL S 235

EGGS BENEDICT IN SP I RED BY PEDRO sUB IJ ANA AND GRANT ACHATZ Yields 610 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Eggyolks 150 g
Salt 3g
Eggwhites 150g
Salt 3g
Clari fied butter 750g
see page 4213
Engl ish muffins, ground 100 g
Neutral oil 20 g
Salt to taste
Sous vide instant hollandaise 150 g
see page305
Canadian bacon, finely diced 45 g
from page 486
SCALING
100%
2%
100%
2%
500%
67%
13.4%
100%
30%
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk yo lks together with salt, and strain through fine sieve.
o Transfer to squeeze bottle.
Whisk wh ites together with salt, and st rain through fine sieve.
o Transfer to second sq ueeze bottle.
Divide butter evenl y among two small pots.
Heat one pot to 72 ' C / 162 ' F and second pot to 90 ' C / 194 ' F.
o Squeeze dropl ets of yolk mi xt ure into 72 ' C/ 162 ' F bath; keep drops separated.
Cook fo r1 min.
Lift drops sli ghtl y from pot bottom with small spatul a to help them fl oat.
@ Remove droplets when t hey begi n to float, res erving butter. Rese rve warm.
@ Repeat procedure to make egg white droplets in 90 ' C / 194 ' F bath.
@ Reserve warm.
@ Combine in nonstick pan.
@ fry until golde n, about 5 min, and drain.
@ Season toasted crumbs.
@ Heat in 62 ' C/ 144 ' F bath for at least 10 min.
@ Warm with spoonful of reserved butter.
@ fold into egg yolk droplet s, egg white droplets, and toasted crumbs.
@ Portion egg, bacon, and crumb combinat ion in small bowls.
@ Garnish wit h small amount of ho ll andaise.
MISO-CURED EGG SHEETS Yields 60 g
Cure the yolks for48 h on each side
(96 h total) for a softer, more pliable
texture.
The cured egg yolk sheets can be
cooked in a 70 ' C/ 158 ' F bat h fora
more flexibl e texture.
INGREDIENT
Re d miso
Sake
Sugar
Eggyolks, whole
from page 487
QUANTITY SCALING
75g 7S%
14g 14%
12g 12%
100g 100%
. MANIIA I
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
o Line small bowl with cheesecloth,
o r use sili cone hemisphe ri cal mold.
Spread mi xt ure in prepared bowl or mold to
form well shape.
o Place yolks, individually and intact, in center of
well , a nd cover wit h remainingmiso mixture.
Refrigerate for 48 h to cure. flip yolks over, and
refrigerate aga in for 72 h.
Remove yolks from cure.
o Roll between two t hin sili cone mats or two
pieces of plas ti c wrap to form sheets 1 mm /)1" in
thick.
Dry at room temperat ure for15 min to firm.
Use egg sheets for ravioli, or cut into noodles and
d ress with boni to fl akes and olive oi l.
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PARMESAN CREME BRULEE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Heavy cream 350g
Parmesan, finely grated 80 g
Cheese-infused cream, 250 g
from above
Eggyolks 67.5g
Salt 1.32g
Muscat grape syrup or onion 40 g
sugar
see page 213 or page 231
fro m page488
Sweet creme brulee can be made with
the same bas ic recipe. Omit the cheese,
add 15%-20% sugar, and cook in a
82 ' e / 180 ' F bath to a core temperature
of 81 ' e I 178 ' F.
SAUCE ALLEMANDE
INGREDIENT
White chicken stock
see page 6
QUANTITY
120g
Heavy cream 100 g
Egg yolks, bl ended and sieved 60 g
Mushroom jus
see page 37
Unsalted butter, melted
Nutmeg, freshly grated
Salt
White pepper
from page 488
50g
40g
to taste
to taste
to taste
Yields 450 g (about eight portions)
SCALING PROCEDURE
140% G) Bring cream and cheese to simmer.
32% 0 Strain, and res erve 250 g of infuse d cream.
100% Ble nd toget her.
o Divide mi xt ure evenly among individual ramekins.
Cover ramekins with pl astic wrap.
27%
0.5%
@) Cook in 78 ' e I 172 ' F bath or steam oven to core temperature of77 ' e I 171 ' F, about
35min.
o Refrigerate until cool, about 45 min.
16% Pour syrup over each creme brulee to serve. Alternative ly, dust onion sugar over surface
of custards, and flash with bl owtorch until carame li zed.
For a li ghter custard, substitute milk for
part of the heavy crea m. A typ ical ratio
would be half milk, half cream.
SCALING PROCEDURE
200% G) Bl end until smooth.
o Pass through fin e sieve.
Vacuum seal.
Yi e lds370 g
167%
100%
(20%)'
83%
o Cook sous vide in 79 ' e I 174 ' F bath for 35 min.
Blend until smooth once more.
67%
@) Season.
o Serve with poached artichokes (see page 3292)
and braised chi cken t highs (see page 399).
'(% of toto I weight of 011 other ingredients)
GEL S
This is a slight ly Modernist version
of a French haute cuisine cl ass ic
perfected by Auguste Escoffier in
the early 20th century. We think he
wo uld approve. The savory custard
base can be flavored with other
stocks or jui ces.
237
~
EGG SALAD SANDWICH INSP I RED BY WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg yolks, blended 200g 100% CD Make sleeves measuring 2.5 cm by 30.5 cm / 1 in by 12 in from so us vide bags by us ing
Eggyolks 50g
lemon juice 15 g
Champagne vinegar 19
Neutral oil 200g
Salted pollock roe 30g
(store-bought)
Cornichons, minced 109
Salt 3g
Chives, finely minced 2g
Sriracha sauce 19
Pain de mie orwhite bread, 150g
crusts removed and sliced
5 mm /3;\, in thick
Clarified butter, melted as needed
see page 4213
Black pepper to taste
Flaky sea salt to taste
Watercress leaves 40g
from page 490
25%
7.5%
0.5%
100%
15%
5%
1.5%
1%
0.5%
75%
20%
seali ng strips of vacuum sealer.
o Pipe yolks into sleeves, and tie tops of sleeves tightly to make tube shapes.
Clip tubes to top of bath.
o Cook in 70 ' ( / 158 ' F bath for1 h.
Remove yolks from sleeves, and cool completely.
Cut yolks into slices 2 mm /Y1, in thick.
o Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
Bl end until smooth.
Drizzle slowly into yolk mixture, whi le blending, unt il fully emu lsified.
@) Set aside mayonnaise.
@ Combine.
@ Fold into mayonnaise.
@ Set mi xt ure aside.
@ Cut bread into sandwich-size slices.
@ Brush outside of slices with clarified butter.
@ Toastcarefully in pan unti l golde n, abou t 1 min on each side.
Spread inside of each slice with mayonnaise.
@ Arrangeeggyolkson one slice of bread.
@ Season each yolk-covered slice.
@ Garnish with leaves.
@ Top each with second slice of toasted bread to complete sandwich.
Wyli e Dufresne came up with these molded egg yolk tubes to serve with
his version ofEggs Bene dict, which also involves Deep-Fried Holl andaise
(see page 305) and crispy Canadian bacon. We've used them to make this
delicious egg sandwich to show how versatile a preparation they can be.
2 .l R VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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BLENDED EGG GEL
CD Measure yolks, whites, liquid ingredients, and seasonings. Us e o Vacuum seal if cooking sous vide (optional).
the weight of egg whites as 100%, and measure other ingredients
proporti onall y-for instance, use 60 g of yolk and 10 g of cream for each
100 g of whi te in an omelet, and so on.
o Cook. See the table be low fo r recommended final core temperat ures.
Blend all ingredients thoroughl y.
Best Bets for Blended Egg Gels
Eggyolk Eggwhite
Recipe (sca li ng) (scaling)
American scrambled eggs 70% 100%
French scrambled eggs 110% 100%
omelet 60% 100%
savory f1an (creme 50% 100%
caramel)
chawanmushi 50% 100%
(savory Japanese custard)
royale custard 400% 100%
frittata* 50% 100%
quiche filling* 50% 100%
liquid
whole mi lk
whole milk
unsalted butter,
me lted
heavy cream
whole milk
mirin
hon dash i
see page 15
whole milk
heavy cream
whole milk
oli ve oil
bacon-infused
heavy cream
see page 2310
The time required will vary de pending on the thickness of the layer of egg
mi xture and of the cooking vesse l.
Other
(scaling) ingredients
10% salt
45% sa lt
45%
10% salt
300% salt
3% salt
210% Activa RM
600% flavorfu l puree,
300%
juice, or stock
50% Taleggio
15%
cheese, grated
salt
190% salt
Cook
(scal ing) Method (oe) (OF)
See page
1.8% water bath 70 158
3% water bath 72 162 next
2% steam oven 82 180 next
2% steam oven 83 181 244
or water bath
2% steam oven 82 180 242
1%
or water bath
800% steam oven 80 176 241
or water bath
25% steam oven 80 176
3%
3% steam oven 80 176
from page 492 '(many different fl avors can be adapted to these recipes)
BOUDIN NOIR CUSTARD Yields950g
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY
Yellow onions, 100 g
thi nly sliced
Rendered bacon fat 20g
Whole milk, cold 200g
160 Bloom gelati n 199
Heavy cream 450g
Eggyolks 80g
Pigeon blood (fresh) 60g
Salt 14g
Dutch-processed cocoa 4g
powder
Quatre epices 4g
see page 48
from page 5127
SCALING PROCEDURE
22%
4.4%
44%
4.2%
100%
18%
13%
3%
0.9%
0.9%
CD Saute onions until trans lu cent.
Cool.
o Di sperse gelatin into mil k.
@ Wa rm until gelat in is ful ly dissolved.
Combine with onions and mil k.
@) Blend until smooth.
o Strain through fine sieve.
Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 70 e / 158 OF bath for1 h.
@ Cool in ice-water bath.
@ Refrigerate.
GElS
For more on the steps involved in proper
dispersion and hydration of gelatin. see page
4124. For more on strategies for clarifying juice.
see page 2-352.
239
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FRENCH SCRAMBLED EGGS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Eggyolks 150 g
(from about
eight large)
Eggwhites BOg
(from about
This reci pe, and its more forma l
four large)
SCALING
100%
87%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, and blend unti l smooth.
(3) Vacuum seal.
Yields 520 g
o Cook in 72 C/ 162 OF bath until thi ck, about
25 min.
cousin in volume 5 (see page 5215),
Unsalted butter, melted
are amo ng our favorites.
60g 40%
40%
2%
@) Optio nall y, transfer eggs to whipping siphon, and
charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges for li ght,
foamy texture.
Whole milk 60g
@) Reserve warm.
Daniel Patterson of Coi in San
Salt 4g
Francisco published a recipe for Beech mushrooms (hon- 120g 80 % Saute until cooked through, about 4 min.
poached scrambled eggs in 2007. shimeji), washed thoroughly
He carefull y drops bl e nded eggs
Unsalted butter
into seasoned si mmering water,
Pancetta, thinly sli ced
whil e stirring, as if making tradi -
tiona I poached eggs. He then
Mushroom jus
drains the eggs and serves them
see page 37
with olive oi l and salt. They are Creme fralche
extremely fluffy.
Scallions, thinly sliced
Salt
fro m page 493
HAM AND CHEESE OMELET
INGREDIENT
Whole eggs
Heavy cream
Egg yolk
QUANTITY
145g
(about t hree)
15g
12g
Salt 2.5 g
Cooked French ham, brunoise 75 g
Gruyere cheese, thinly spread 60 g
(or brunoise)
see page 299
Basil, minced
Chervil, picked
Chives, minced
Tarragon, minced
Clarified brown butter
see page 4213
from page 495
0.35g
0.35g
0.35g
0.35g
as needed
By using a combi oven or a low-temperature
steame r (see page 2162), perfect ly done o me lets
can be made simultaneously for doze ns or even
hundreds of people.
SCALING
100%
10%
8%
1.7%
52%
41%
0.24%
0.24%
0.24%
0.24%
This omelet can also be made in a conventi onal oven,
but doing so requires great vigilance. Pour a thin layer
of omelet base in a nonstick pan, wrap tightly with
cling film orcoverwith a lid, and bake in a 120 C/
250 OF oven until just set, 7-10 min depending
on the wet-bulb temperature.
A dramatic mushroo m omelet-a more complex version
of the omelet recipe above-can be fou nd o n page 5215.
We use a pastry comb to create flavorful stripes of mush-
room puree thi ckened with albumin and egg yolk powder.
30g
45g
45g
30g
15g
to taste
PROCEDURE
CD Blend thoroughly.
20%
30%
30%
20%
10%
o Ad d to mushrooms, and cook for 2 min.
Add to mushrooms, and reduce until syrupy,
abo ut 3 min.
Whisk into mushroom mixture.
@ Season.
@ Portion scrambl ed eggs into fo ur bowls, and
garnish with mushroom mi xture.
Yields four omelets, about 75 g each
(3) Spread in layer 20 cm by 20 cm / 8 in by 8 in and 2 mm / 1:;', in thick on nonstick tray.
o Steam at 80 C/ 176 OF unti l set, about 7 min.
@ Cool completely, and cut into four sq uare portions,S em by 5 em / 2 in by 2 in.
@) Setaside.
Combin e.
o Fill each omelet evenly.
Fold omelets over.
Brush onto omelet.
@ Steam at 80 C/ 176 OF until cheese has melted, about 4 min.
? A f)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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ASPARAGUS ROYALE INSPIRED BY ALAIN DUCASSE Yields S50 g (about eight royales)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Asparagus puree or
juice
200g
see page 33 or page 55
Whole mi lk 150 g
Eggyolk 105 g
Heavy cream 75 g
Eggwhite 2Sg
Salt 6.5 g
Roasted-hazelnut oil 5g
Porcini oil (store-bought) 5g
Brown chicken jus 80g
see page34
Black truffle concentrate 20g
see page5?
Unsalted butter 20g
Lemonjuice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 494
DASHIMAKI TAMAGO
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Eggwhites 125g
Eggyolks 75 g
Hon dashi 40g
see pagelS
N-ZorbitM 30g
(National Starch brand)
Agave syrup 20g
White soy sauce 7g
Sugar 5g
Salt
19
Frying oil as needed
from page 494
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Blend until smooth.
Press mi xture through fine sieve.
75%
Pour layer2.5 cm / 1 in th ick into individual
bowls.
52.5%
8 Cover bowls with plastic wrap.
(24%)'
37.5%
Cook in 80 c / 176 OF bath or steam oven to core
12.5%
temperature of79 C/ 174 of, about30 min.
(5.8%)'
Reserve royales warm, or refri gerate.
3.25%
2.5%
2.5%
40% o Combine.
10%
Whisk over low heat unti l just warm, about 2 min.
10%
Season warm truffle mixture.
@ Divide equall y among royales.
*(% of total weight of all ather ingredients in royales)
Royales are savory custards, e ither
served as is or cut into designs and
floated on the surface of a con-
somme. We think even Antonin
Careme would approve ofthis
recipe, which uses Modernist
temperature control to achieve
the perfecttexture.
SCALING
167%
100%
53%
40%
27%
9.3%
6.7%
1.3%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, blending completely.
Vacuum seal to remove bubbles.
Remove from bag, and cast into no nstick mold in layer4 cm / lY2 in thick.
o Steam, covered, at79 c / 174 OF until set, about25 min.
Refrigerate to cool completely, about30 min.
Remove from mold.
o Slice tamago into desired dimensions.
Yields295 g
Heat thin film of oil over medium heat. Sear each tamago on one side unti l evenly
browned.
Serve tamago while crust is warm a nd center is sti ll cold for pleasant temperature
contrast.
PRESSURE-COOKED EGG TOAST ADAPTED FROM NIL S NOREN AND DAVE ARNOLD Yields 180 g (about six toasts)
INGREDIENT
Egg yolks
Baking powder
Salt
Clarified butter, unsalted
Chives, finely minced
Sturgeon caviar
from page 497
QUANTITY
200g
(abo ut 11 yolks)
9g
2g
as needed
109
as desired
SCALING
100%
4.5%
1%
5%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until smooth.
Vacuum seal to remove excess air.
Transfer egg mixture to small greased rame kins; fill each halfway full.
o Add enough water to pressure cooker to reach halfway up ramekin sides.
Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 40 min to form cooked, muffin-
like eggs.
Cool quickly by running cold water over cooker.
o Cut egg rounds in half horizontally, and brush with butter.
Fry rounds, cutside down, until golden.
Garnish.
GElS 241
d
~
CHAWANMUSHI
INGREDIENT
Scallop stock or chicken
stock
see page 6 or page 11
Dive rscallops, pureed
and sieved
White soy sauce
Whole eggs, bl ended
Activa RM
Scallop stock or chicken
stock
see page 6 or page 11
QUANTITY
3S0 g
65 g
18g
100 g
(about two)
8g
100 g
Sake 75 g
Xanthan gum 0.3 g
Unsalted butter, cubed 50 g
Salt to taste
Prosciutto crudo, finely 30 g
diced
Dates, fin ely diced 25 g
Sca llions, thinly sliced 20 g
l emon verbena, thinly
sli ced
from page 496
3g
SCALING
350%
65%
18%
100%
(23%)*
8%
(1.5%)**
100%
75%
0.3%
50%
30%
25%
20%
3%
Yields 850 g (about eight chawanmushi)
PROCEDURE
CD Ble nd.
(3) Vacuum seal.
Cook so us vide in 45 C / 113 OF bath for10 mi n to acti vate e nzyme.
@ Pour chawanmushi base into porcelain bowls to depth of 2.5 cm / 1 in.
Wrap bowls ti ghtl y with plast ic wra p.
Cook in 82 C / 180 OF water bath or stea m ove n to core te mperature of 81 C / 178 OF, about
40min.
o Simme r stock and sake together fo r 3 min.
Bl end into stock mi xture.
Bl end into stock mi xture until full y e mulsifie d.
@ Season sauce.
@ Whi sk into sauce.
@ Garni sh each chawanmushi evenl y.
*(% of toto I weight offirstthree ingredients)
**(% of toto I weight offirstfour ingredients)
BOUDIN NOIR BREAD PUDDING Yi elds 1 kg
INGREDIENT
Day-old brioche,
crust removed
Boudin noir custard,
warmed
see page 239
Frying oil
Trehalose
Glucose syrup DE 40
Salt
from page 5127
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
500 g 100% CD Cut into sli ces 2.5 cm / 1 in thi ck.
(3) Pl ace sli ces in bottom of deep hotel pan.
500 g 100% Pour custard over bri oche, and pl ace pan quickly in vacuum chamber. Warm custard will
as needed
as needed
as needed
as needed
pe netrate better than cold.
@ Pull full vacuum twice, turn brioche sli ces over, and pull vacuum three more times, or as many
times as necessary fo r bread to full y absorb custard.
Refrigerate unti l set, at least 4 h.
Cut gell ed brioche sli ces into 3.75 cm / 1'h in by 5 cm / 2 in rectangles.
o Dust brioche rect angles with trehalose on all sides.
Deep-fr y in 175 C / 350 OF oil for 3 min.
While frying rectangles, heat glucose syrup in nonstick saute pan over medium hi gh.
@ Remove rectangles from oil, and pat dry with pape r towe ls. Transfer immedi ately to saute pan,
and coat with hot glucose syrup.
@ Cook, fli pping constantly, until golden shell fo rms on all sides, about 3 min.
@ Transfer to nonstick surface, season with salt, a nd cool at room tempe rature until shell s
harde n, about 1 min.
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CHORIZO FRENCH TOAST
INGREDIENT
Whole mil k
Spanish chorizo, ground
Chorizo milk, from above
Whole eggs, blended
Salt
Brioche, cut into 5 cm / 2 in rounds
Quail eggs
Fryingoil
from page 498
Yie lds 250 g (four slices)
QUANTITY SCALING
600g 300%
150 g 75%
600g 300%
245 g 122.5%
(47%)'
9g 1. 5%
200 g 100%
four eggs
as nee ded
' (% oj weight oJchorizo milk)
CD Combine milk and chorizo.
o Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 85 ' ( / 185 ' F bath for1 h.
Cool completely. Strain, and reserve 600 g.
@ Blend reserved chorizo mil k with eggs and salt until smooth.
@) Place brioche rounds in container, and pour custard over brioche.
@ Place container in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum unti l custard boi ls.
(2) Release vacuum; custard will be fully a bsorbed by brioche.
Saute brioche rounds unt il golden o n both sides. (This step can be
reversed with step 10 if desired.)
Cook in 150 ' ( / 300 ' F oven to core temperature of80 ' ( / ,176 ' F, about
7 min. Alte rnat ively, vacuum seal under weak vacuum, and cook sous
vide in 80 ' ( / 176 ' F bath or steam oven fo r10 min.
French toast is good when made with many savory flavors, such as aged
cheese, foie gras, sweet peas, corn-even savory nut milks.
@ Fry quail eggs in nonstick pan until whites are cooked through but yolks
are still runny. If making large quantities, consider using the two-stage
"fried" egg approach-see page 2 and page 235.
To make a foie gras vers ion ofthis recipe, simply bl e nd 400 g of milk wit h
200 gofrawfoie gras, and use this mixture instead of the chorizo-infused
mi lk. We also had great success with a blend of300 g of mi lk and 300 g of
toasted almond mil k (see page 228).
Top toast rounds with fried eggs. Serve with olive marmalade (recipe
below). We garnish our chorizo French toast with thyme, but there are
many other possibi lities.
OLIVE MARMALADE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Fennel, finely minced 30 g
Olive oil
Shallots, minced
Picholine olives, minced
Candied orange rind, minced
Ni<;oise olives, minced
30g
109
30g
15 g
10 9
Thyme, leaves
Salt
from page 499
OMELET BASE
INGREDIENT
Eggs
Heavy cream
Eggyolks
Salt
Mushroom puree
see page 55
Egg yolk powder
Heavy cream
Albumin powder
(store-bought)
Salt
0.1 g
to taste
QUANTITY
145g
15g
12g
2.5g
100 g
15.5 g
lO.3g
8.8g
1.7g
Scrambled egg foam, 200 g
warmed
see page 5216
Mushroom marmalade, 80 g
warmed
see page 5-217
from page 5217
Yields100 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
100%
33%
100%
50%
33%
0.33%
CD Saute over low heat unti l tender, about 12 min.
o Cool completely.
Fo ld into fennel.
@ Season.
Stripes of mushroom puree make
for a visuall y stunning omelet in the
recipe below, but skipping thi s step
greatly simpli fies the recipe and
saves nearly an hour of effort. Also,
omitting the stripes does not take
away from what makes this omelet
special: the remarkable texture.
Truffle concentrate (see page 57)
is a decadent substitute for the
mushroom puree.
Yie lds 300 g (about four omelets)
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
10.3%
8.3%
1.7%
69%
10.7%
7.1%
6%
1.1 %
138%
55%
CD Blend thorough ly to create egg base, and reserve.
o Combine, and spread onto sil icone mat in layer 20 cm / 8 in sq uare and 2 mm / X6 in th ick.
Pul l pastry comb with 3 mm / Ya in teeth through mushroom puree mixt ure to create even
lines. If pastry comb is unavail able, proceed to step 4.
@ Pour egg base evenly over mushroom puree mixture, between lines if pastry comb was used,
in layer 2 mm / X6 in th ick.
@) Steam in 82 ' C / 180 ' F combi oven with 100% relative humidi ty, or CVap oven with same
settings, unt il set, about 3 min.
@) Cut into four 5 em / 2 in squares.
(2) Reheat omeletsquares in 82 ' C/ 180 ' F combi ove n with 100% relative humidity, orCVap oven
at same temperature with browning level set to 0, for 3 min.
Dispense straight line of scrambled egg foam down centers of omelet squares.
Spoon marmalade in straight lines next to scrambled egg foam li nes.
GEL S 243
"
----;0. - ,. -
SMOKED EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS
CD Select the ingredi ent. The table below lists several good options. water on the bottom rack ofthe smoker, and use gauges to monitor the
heat and humidity.
CD Preheat and prehumidify the smoker to the temperature and relative
humidity indicated in the table. Some smokers allow you to set the
temperature and re lat ive humidity directly; otherwise, place a pan of
Smoke for the time indicated.
o Use immediately, or chill quickly and thoroughly.
Best Bets for Smoking Dairy and Eggs
Dry- bulb Wet-bulb
temperature temperature
Relative
Ingredient
(oe) (oF) (oe) (oF)
humidity (h) Example use See page
cold-smoked eggs, shelled 60 140 48 118 50% 7 flan, creme anglais e, mayonnais e below
cream
7 45 5 42 75% 4Y, cream sauce, cream cheese
butter, hot-smoked 30 85 22 72 50% 4 spread for toast
butter, cold-smoked 10 50 6 43 55% 24 poached sa lmon with smoked 5161
beurre blanc
cheese (mozzarella, Parmesan, cheddar) 10 50 6 43 55% 24 pizza, cheese plate
from page 4100
SMOKED EGG CREME CARAMEL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Whole mi lk 150 g 150%
Bacon, minced 100g 100%
Shall ots, finely minced 30g 30%
If cold smoking the eggs is not an
option, use fresh eggs, and add
0.75 g (0.5% of the total weight of
Bacon-infused mi lk, 100g 100%
infused mi lk and eggs) of good
from above
quality liquid smoke instead. Cold-smoked eggs, shell ed 50 g 50%
see above
Salt 2.3 g 2.3%
Sugar 40g 40%
Water 20g 20%
Black pepper, coarsely ground 0.1 g 0.1%
from page 4101
Yields200 g
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together, and cook so us vide in
90 e / 194 OF bath forlY' h.
o Remove from bag, and strain; reserve 100 g of
milk.
Cool milk.
o Bl end together unt il smooth.
Vacuum seal to remove any trapped air bubbles.
Combine in pan. Cook over medium heat unt il
sugar becomes dark caramel, about 7 min.
(2) Pour caramel into four ramekins, and cool.
Spoon 2.5 cm / 1 in thick layer of custard over
caramel.
Steam ramekins at 83 e / 181 F for15 min, and
cool completely.
@ Toserve, invert onto plates.
PECORINO WITH TRUFFLE HONEY ON CEDAR ADAPTED FROM SCOTT CARSBERG Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Smoked Tuscan Pecorino 250 g
cheese, aged 18 months
Black truffles, finely chopped 50g
Acacia honey 109
Cedar pl ank
Candied chestnuts (store- 25g
bought), cut into small cubes
from page 4101
SCALING
100%
20%
4%
10%
PROCEDURE
CD Cut cheese into four triangular chunks, each 1.25 cm / Y, in thick. Set aside at room
temperature.
o Combine.
Set as ide at room temperature.
o To serve, preheat oven to 260 e / 500 OF.
Place cheese chunks on plank, and bake unti l bubbling and very soft, about 5 min.
Remove pl ank from oven. Ignite edges of plank with blowtorch to create smoke.
(2) Garnish bubbling cheese wit h truffle honey and candied chestnuts (marrons glace).
Serve on smoking plank to imbue room with smoked-wood aroma.
IInl II!A> ~ KITrHrN MANIIAI
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@ Select a curd recipe and texture. The table presents good options that
use a variety of coagulants with different fl avors and textures.
o Adjust soluble solids concentration, if using soy milk, to 10-14 Bri x.
Use a refractometer or a float that measures the density (see page 2313).
You may need to reduce fresh soy milk to achi eve this concentration;
the higherthe density, the richer, firmer, and less elasti c the tofu will be.
G) Measure liquid. Scale ingredients re lative to the weight of the liquid;
in ricotta, for example, use 0.3 g of lactic acid for every 100 g of milk.
@ Preheat the li quid to the cooking temperature. Use a water bat h,
if avail able. Do not preheat if making silken tofu or ricotta.
Dissolve the coagulant in a small amount of water, and then stir the
~ Best Bets for Protein Curds
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mixture into the milk or cream. The amounts of lactic acid, citric acid,
and glucollo delta-lactone indicated were selected to achieve the pH
shown. If curd texture is too firm (pH too high) ortoo loose (pH too low),
adjust the coagulant quantity accordingly (see page 2316).
Heat at temperature indi cated for the t ime shown.
o Remove from heat, and allow to curdle. Approximate setting t imes are
given in the tabl e.
Season (optional). See exampl e recipes on the pages indicated.
Cut, drain, and press evenly {for firm-textured curds only}. Press both
dairy and soy curds while they are still warm {65-75 C/ 149- 167 OF}
to ens ure proper bonding and a good fina l texture.
Heat Set
Recipe Liquid (scaling) Texture Coagulant* {scaling} {OC} {OF} {mi n} (min) Note pH
See
page
basic milk rawmi lkor 100% tende r, rennet 0.35% 38 100 1 7 set in serving container; 8.2 247
curd
unhomogenized, brittle for firmer curds, cut curds,
pasteurized mi lk and heat at 47 C I 116 OF
for Y2 -1 h, and then drain,
and cut again
ricotta whole milk 100% tender, lactic acid 0.3% 85 185 1 35 for salted and aged ricot- 5.4 248
heavy cream 10%
brittle ta, fo ld in 0.7% salt, press
refrigerated forl-3 d,
drain, and hang forl-3 wk
fresh cottage whole milk 100% tender, rennet 1% 38 100 1 7 whisk to break apart curd, 8.2
cheese
brittl e
38 100 1 h
hold at38 Cl 100 Ffor
1 h, and drain whey; fo ld
in cream to taste
paneer whole milk 100% firm, lactic acid 0.35% 82 180 5 20 press while warm, and 5.8
cultured yogurt 1%
e lastic refrigerate for 24 h
tofu soy mi lk 100% silken glucono 0.2% 80 176 1 15 milk density affects tofu 6.3 246
see page 227 delta-lactone texture; let silken tofu set
medium nigari 0.35% 85 185 1 30
in serving container, and
nl a
firm granules
then steam undisturbed
firm calcium 0.4% 80 176 3 20
at80 C/ 176 OF
nl a 248
sulfate
farmer's whole milk 100% firm, rennet 0.4% 23 73 1 heat mil k for1 min at 8.1
cheese heavy cream 5%
brittle
buttermilk 0.4% 36 97 1Y< h nl a
23 c l 73 OF, and then add
other ingredients, and
hold for1Y< h at36 c l
97 OF; press while warm,
and refrigerate for 12-24 h
posset heavy cream 100% tender, citric acid 0.7% 88 190 1 4h add 15%-25% sugar to 6.7
{stabilizer-free} smooth make a posset dessert
from page 4104 *(BioRen rennet tablets were used for all of our recipes; other brands may alter theformulations slightly)
GELS 245
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COCOA NIB CURD INSPIRED BY MICHEL TROISGROS Yields 1 kg (10 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whole milk, unhomogenized 1 kg
Cocoa nibs sOg
Rennet tablet (BioRen brand) 3.5 g
Water
109
Cocoa nibs, toasted to taste
Fleur de sel to taste
Grapefruitzest, finely grated to taste
Maple syrup to taste
Olive oil
Shiso leaves, fine julienne
from page 4105
to taste
to taste
SCALING
100%
5%
0.35%
1%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together, and refrigerate for12 h to infuse.
(3) Remove from bag, and strain.
Heatmilkt038 ' C/ IOO ' F.
o Dissolve rennet tablet in water.
Stir in warm milk.
Stirfor10 s.
(7) Leave mixture in pot, or pour quickly into smal l bowls to depth of 2.5 cm / 1 in.
Let stand at room tempe rature unt il set, about 7 min.
Garnish as desired, and season evenly.
You can use glucono delta-lactone in place of the re nnet and still achieve the same
texture. Dissolve the GDL in cold milk, pour the mixture into molds or bowls, and then
steam at 80 'C / 176 ' F for 20 min.
GOAT CHEESE DUMPLINGS ADAPTED FROM H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AK I KAMOZAWA YieldsssO g
INGREDIENT
Goat cheese, fresh
Ricotta, fresh
Eggyolk
ActivaYG
Salt
Cayenne pepper
from page 4105
SILKEN TOFU
QUANTITY
300g
200g
36g
s.4g
3.5 g
0.2s g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Soy milk 400 g
see page 227
Glucono delta-lactone (GDL) 0.8 g
Tomato water 100g
see page 40
White soy sauce 109
Rice vinegar 8g
Salmon roe 60g
Basil, leaves 8g
Extra-virgin olive oil as needed
Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste
from page 4113
SCALING
100%
67%
12%
1.8%
(1%)'
1.2%
0.08%
PROCEDURE
CD Bl end completely.
(3) Transfer mi xture to pastry bag.
Pipe into si licone sphere molds measuring 2.5 cm / 1 in. in diameter (see page 135).
o Tap molding sheet on counter to eliminate bubbles.
Refrigerate, covered, for 12 h to set.
To serve, warm spheres gently in simmering water. When hot, serve with desired sauce or
glaze.
*(% of total weight offirst three ingredients)
SCALING
100%
0.2%
25%
2.5%
2%
15%
2%
Yieldss8sg
PROCEDURE
CD Check de nsity of soy milk, and dilute or reduce as needed to reach 12 Brix.
(3) Dissolve GDL in small amount of soy milk, and the n whisk solution into remaining milk for
10 s to distribute evenl y.
Pour into smal l bowl s or mold to depth of2.s cm / 1 in.
o Steam in 80 ' C/ 176 OF combi oven or water-vapor oven unt il set, 30- 40 min.
Transfer to molds, and cool at room tempe rat ure until slightly firmed, about 15 min, and
then refrige rate.
Combine to make dreSSing.
(7) Check seasoning; add salt if necessary.
Setaside.
Garni sh tofu.
@ Season, and pour dressing at table.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUA L
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FRESH CHEESE CURDS
Yi elds 800 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk 4kg
Mesophilic starter 19
(Mesophile Type II)
Thermophi lic starter 19
(Thermophil e Type II)
Water 40 g
Re nnet tablet (BioRen brand) 0.5 g
from page 4106
To make squea ky curds, foll ow the
recipe above, but in step 10 heat
the curds to 47 O( / 117 of, and hold
the re for1 h. Drain, cut, and season.
Serve, or cool qu ickly and store,
refri gerated, for up to 2 d.
MODERNIST BURRATA
100% CD Ve rify that pH of mil k is 8-9.
@ Heat to 30 O( / 86 of, and ho ld at that te mperature in warm bath.
n/ a*
n/ a*
1%
Sprinkle ove r surface of warm mil k, and let sit 5 min.
o St ir in unti l eve nl y di stributed .
Sprinkl e over surface of warm mi lk, and let sit5 min.
Stir in unti l evenl y d istri buted.
<2) Dissolve rennet in water.
0.01 % Stir mi xture into warm milk, and wait for mil k to set into one large curd, 15-30 min.
@) Re move from heat, and cut into 2 cm / 3,4 in cubes.
@ Heat cut curds in 40 O( / 104 OF bath, re movi ng whey fro m surface every 10-20 min
until texture resembles elasti c egg white, 1- 1Y2 h .
@ Check that pH is 5-5. 2. If it is not, hold curd at 40 O( / 104 OF unt il pH reaches target
range.
@ Drain curd, and cut to desired size.
@ Refrigerate fo r 2 h.
@ Serve or use within 24 h; cul t ures cause curd to start to sour aft e r 1 d.
*(these are live cultures;follow directions on manufacturer's pockaging when scaling quantities)
To make curds without re nnet or
cultures, heat the m in a pressu re
canner o r autocl ave to at least
128 . ( / 262 OF for 30-40 min. Th e
curds wi ll turn light brown and
develop a flavo r re mini scent of
cre me caramel. Add 0.3% of
sodium hexametaphos phate to
yie ld a mo re cohesive, firm puck.
To make fet a, use t he recipe above
with at least 70% sheep's mil k. At
step 12, press curds li ghtly into a
bas ket to drain, and rest fo r 24 h at
abo ut 20 O( / 68 OF. The pH should
d rop to 4.7-4.8. Soa k, refr igerated,
in a brine containing 3% salt an d
0.07% ca lcium chl oride for 1 wk.
Fo r drier cu rds, cure briefl y with dry
salt at room temperature, a nd rinse.
To make fres h mozzare ll a, fo ll ow
the reci pe above through step 11,
and then drain curds, and cut into
1. 25 cm / Y2 in cubes. Heat reserve d
whey to 85 0(/185 of, and ladl e
ove r cubes to just cover. Let res t
4 min until softe ned, and the n
d rain. Repeat process three t imes,
cove ring curds with hot whey
unti l th ey begin to melt together.
Mold curds by hand into teardrop
shapes, or pour into a mold. The
mozzarell a becomes stretchi e r and
firme r with hand li ng. Hold formed
ball s in a bowl of cold water.
Season, and serve warm or soak in a
brine containing 4% salt and 0.07%
calcium chloride for1 2- 24 h .
Yi elds 700g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
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see above
Heavy cream
Salt
Forthe skin:
Whole mi lk
Heavy cream
Salt
Activa YG
160 Bloom g'elatin
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Seasonal herbs, leaves
from page 4109
300 g
300 g
6 g
300 g
100 g
4 g
6g
8g
to tas te
to taste
to taste
100%
100%
2%
100%
33%
1.3%
2%
2.7%
CD Puree 100 g curds, and shre d re maining 200 g.
o Mix cream and salt into curds to make cream-curd fi ll ing.
Refri gerate.
o Mi x mil k, cream, salt, and gelatin.
Bring to 65 O( / 149 of to di ssolve ge latin.
Cool to 50 O( / 122 of.
<2) Add Activa.
(ast onto level, nonstick surface.
@) Rest at room temperature for 1 h, a nd then refri gerate overn ight.
@ Cut to desired size, and layover pl ated cream-curd filling.
@ Garni sh and season.
GEL 5 2 4 7
.-;:,
;..---
GOAT MILK RICOTTA Yields 850 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For ricotta:
lactic acid 4g
Water 25 g
Goat milk 1.8 kg
Heavy cream 250 g
Forfrozen honey powder (optional):
Water
Buckwheat honey
Thyme (several varieties
such as lemon, English,
caraway, si lver)
200g
80g
to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste
from page 4108
0.2%
1.4%
100%
14%
11 %
4.4%
CD Dissolve acid into water, and stir acid solution into cold milk.
o Heat milk to 85 ' c / 185 ' F, stirring gently. As soon as milk starts coagulating, stop stirring.
Continue to heat as needed until mi lk reaches 85 ' C / 185 ' F.
<3) Remove from heat, and allow to curdle at room temperature for 30 min.
Strain curds through cheesecloth, and then drain curds, refrigerated, for3 h forwet
ricotta or for up to 12 h for drier cheese. Discard liquid.
Fold into drained curds. Refrigerate if not serving immediately.
o Whisk together.
Pour into Pacojet beaker.
Freeze to -20 ' c / - 4 ' F or below.
@ To serve, Pacotize once to make fine powder.
@ Spoon around ricotta.
@ Garnish as desired.
For tender, coarse ricotta, stop stirring as soon as coagulation begins,
regardless of the temperature of the milk. For ricotta with a finer, more
traditional gra in, keep stirring until the target temperature is reached.
These tofu recipes use fresh,
homemade soy milk (see page 227).
Store-bought soy milk often wi ll not
work with these recipes because it
contains various additives.
A quick alternative for making
instant firm tofu is to hydrate 0.2%
low-acyl gellan and 0.15% high-acyl
gellan in soy milk at 85 ' C/ 185 ' F.
The mixture wi ll set as it cools.
The amou nt of calcium sulfate or
other coagulant required depends
on the amount of protein available
in the mixture. Soy beans vary in
their protein content, so always test
a small amount of soy milk before
making each batch. When the
proper amount of coagul ant is
used, the whey becomes transpar-
ent. A yellow hue to the whey and
a coarse curd texture signal
overcoagulation; a cloudy whey
is a sign of undercoagulation.
?4R
FIRM TOFU
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Calcium sulfate 2g 0.4%
Water 20g 4%
Soy milk (12 Brix) 500g 100%
see page 227
Salt 3g 0.6%
Scallions, thinly sliced 50g 10%
Daikon radishes, finely grated 40g 8%
Fresh gi nger, fine julienne 40g 8%
Bonito flakes (katsobushil 20g 4%
White soy sauce 50g 10%
Dark soy sauce 30g 6%
Mirin 15 g 3%
Rice vinegar 7g 1.4%
from page 4112
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MA NUAL
Yields 250 g
PROCEDURE
CD Dissolve calcium sulfate in cold water.
o Setaside.
Check sol id content of soy milk, and dilute or
reduce as needed to reach 12-14 ' Brix.
<3) Add salt, and bringto 80 ' C/ 176 ' Fwhile stirring
constantly.
Add calcium sulfate water to hot milk, and
remove from heat.
Coagulate at room temperature for 3- 4 min.
o line mold fortofu with cheesecloth.
ladle coagulated soy milk into mold.
Seal mold quickly whi le curds are warm (68-
70 ' C / 154-156 ' F), and put heavy weight on lid.
@ Press at room temperature for 25 min, and then
remove from mold, and refrigerate until firm.
@ Cut to desired dimensions, and garnish.
@ Combine to make sauce.
@ Garnish tofu with sauce as desired.
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MOZZARELLA BALLOONS I NSP IRED BY GRANT ACHATZ Yields700g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Fresh cheese curds 800g
see page 247
Whole milk 180g
Fresh cheese curds, from above 150 g
Heavy cream 30 g
Salt 2.75g
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.1 g
CP kelco brand)
Water 5 kg
Fresh cheese curds, from above 650 g
Tomato whey broth or tomato 200 g
water
see page 212 or page 40
Cinnamon basil, leaves to taste
SCALING
100%
22.5%
18.8%
3.75%
0.34%
0.01%
625%
81%
25%
PROCEDURE
o Cut into 2 cm / < in cubes.
CD Reserve 150 g of curds for cream filling.
Reserve 650 g of curds in large bowl to make balloon skins.
o Ble nd thoroughly to form cream filling.
Pour into 11 siphon.
Charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
o Refrige rate.
Heat water to 75 O( / 167 OF.
Ladl e water into bowl to cover curds.
@ Let curds sit undi sturbed for 3 min.
@ Pour out first covering of water.
@ Ladl e in second covering of water.
@ Let curds sit undi st urbed again for 3 min.
@ Pour out second covering of water.
@ Ladle in third covering of water.
@ Touch curds. If they begin to stretch and shi ne, they are ready. If not, let sit longer, and
cover with fresh hot water eve ry 3-5 min.
@) Pick up lime-size ball of curd. Knead surface to deve lop smooth and shiny ski n. Reserve
remaining curds in warm water.
@ Shake siphon vigorously.
@ Place ball of curd over t ip of inve rted siphon.
@ Fill curd ball qui ckly with cream filling; try to keep out excess air. Complete filling process
wit hin 20 s.
@ Once desired size is reached, pinch each balloon closed.
@ Repeat steps 17-21 to fill re maining curds.
@ If curds will not be served immedi ately, reserve in cold water bath.
@ To se rve, place ball oons in bowls, and po ur seasoned broth or tomato water arou nd
ball oons.
@ Garnish with bas il and, optionall y, wit h basi l oi l (see page 27).
GREEN PEA YUBA I NSP IRED BY TAKASH I SUG IM OTO Yields150 g
INGREDIENT
Soy milk
see page227
Green pea puree
see page SS
Chervil, leaves
Flaky sea salt
Gingeroil
Fresh horseradish,
finely grated
from page 4115
QUANTITY SCALING
950 g 100%
400 g 42%
(from 500 g of
frozen peas)
as needed
to taste
to taste
to taste
PROCEDURE
o Reserve 50 g of soy milk for later us e.
CD Blend pea puree with 900 g soy milk un ti l smooth.
Strain pea milk through fine sieve, and transfer to pot.
o Bring to 80 O( / 176 OF over medium heat.
Lower heat. Yuba will fo rm on surface of pea milk mi xture in about 3 min.
Line baking sheet with plastic wrap, and brush sheet with reserved soy milk.
o Lift yuba carefull y from pot, and transfer to milk-brushed sheet. Cover with plast ic wrap.
Refrigerate for1 h until firm.
Arrange several yuba sheets on each pl ate.
@ Garnish.
GEL S 249
.-
MILK SKIN WITH GRILLED SALSIFY AND TRUFFLE PUREE
Yields 600 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM RENE REDlEPI
INGREDIENT
Raw or nonhomogenized
whole milk
Skim milk powder
Salsify roots, peeled and cut
into tubes 10 cm / 4 in long
Neutral oil
Salt
Black trumpet mushroom
puree
see page 2424
Black truffle concentrate
see page 57
Extra-virgin canola
(rapeseed) oil
Wild watercress leaves
(or regularwatercressl
from page 4114
QUANTITY
1 kg
30g
400g
as needed
to taste
SOg
109
30 g
20g
SCALING
100%
3%
40%
5%
1%
3%
2%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend.
@) Pour into pot whose diameter is desired.size of milk skin.
o Cut parchment paper circles to match diamete r of pot. Parchme nt paper will help transfer
and store milk skins.
o Bring milk to boil, and hold at 80 O( / 176 OF until skin forms, about 7 min.
@) Discard first skin, which is too tender to work with.
@) Place parchment circle on top of second skin, and de licately peel skin off.
(2) Res t ski n on parchment circle at room te mpe rature.
Re peat process to make four skin sheets. (Although 1 kg of milk wi ll make many more than
four sheets, it can be difficult to work with very small quantities of milk.)
Saute salsify in th in film of o il in nonstick pan, whi le basting constantly with oil, until tubes
are golden on all sides, about 4 min.
@ Drain, a nd pat dry.
@ Season salsify.
@ Cool to room temperature.
@ Divide salsify into four portions, and place each one on cente r of plate.
@ Remove each mi lk skin from parchment, and cover salsify portion.
@ Bl end together mushroom and truffle purees until smooth.
@ Garnish pl ates evenly.
11t'lIIIIAC l. VITr u t"tJ U t r . ~ I I t r . 1
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GEL S 25 1
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TRANSGLUTAMINASE GELS
CD Select a recipe. The table below gives some examples.
o Blend Activa into the liqui d or puree. Quantities in the table are given as
a proportion of the main fluid. Forexample, to make a flourless gnocchi,
use 1.3 g of Activa GS, 3 g of160 Bloom gelat in, and 6.6 g of heavy cream
for every 100 g of potato puree.
Best Bets for Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa)
Refrigerate 12-24 hours to set. If the base is heat-tol e rant, you can reduce
th e setting time to 1 h in the refrigerator by first warming the mixture to
40-45 O( / 104- 113 of for 10 min, or 55 O( / 130 OF for 5 min. Warming it
above 60 O( / 140 of destroys the enzyme activity.
Typical concentration
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Application Type Components (scaling)* Example recipe Base C-
dairy gels ActivaYG
egg gels and Act iva RM
soy gels
transglutaminase, lactos e, yeast
extract, maltodextrin
transglutaminase, sodium caseinate,
maltodext rin
0.05%-3.0%
0 .1 %-2.0%
yogurt low-fat yogurt r-
mozzarella noodle mozzarella - -
C'" adapted from Aki Kamozawa ricotta
and H. AlexanderTalbot _
heat-stable mil k s kin milk "-- -
ri cotta gnocchi
sour cream spaet zle
chawanmushi
160 Bloom gelatin
ricotta
sour cream"
ri cotta
water
whey protein isolate
whole egg
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pureed scallop C
flavorful liquids ~
gelatin gels Act iva GS transglutaminase, gelati n, trisodium 0.05%-1.8% flourless potato gnocchi potato puree ~ -
~
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phosphate, maltodextrin heavy cream
160 Bloomgelatin :--
from page 4116
Act iva is made by Ajinomoto, the same Japanese
company that commercialized monosodium glutamate
in 1909 (see page 1213).
Avoid inhaling Activa or any other
enzyme or powder.
For more on the origin of transglutaminase and
how this enzyme works, see page 3-250.
SOUR CREAM SPAETZLE Yields150 g
INGREDIENT
160 Bloom gelatin
Water
Sour cream
Ricotta
Whey protein isolate
ActivaYG
Salt
Clarified butter
Salt
from page 4117
QUANTITY
6g
40g
180g
180g
65g
4g
3.6g
50g
to taste
SCALING
3.3%
22.2%
100%
100%
36%
2.2%
(0.9%)*
1.7%
27.8%
*(X of total weight of all ingredi-
ents except butter and salt)
CD Disperse gelatin into cold water, and heat to dissolve. Allow to cool.
o Ble nd sour cream with gelatin mixt ure, and rest at roo m temperat ure for 5 min.
Set spaetzle maker or perforated pan over an ice-water bath, and grate spaetzle base
to fo rm individual dumplings.
@) Transferin one layer to sheet lined with plast ic wrap.
Refrigerate for at least 4 h to set protein.
@) Drain spaetzle, and fry in clarified butter until golden, about 3 min.
(7) Season to taste.
VOIIiME 6 . KITCHEN MANUA L
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(scaling) (scaling)
100% 0.15%
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100% 0.7%
100% 2.2%
100%
(0.9%)*
40%
36%
100% 8%
65%
(7.5%)*
368%
100% 1.3%
6.6% (7%)*
3%
Prep
stir in
puree until smoot h with Pacojet
or food processor; cast onto
acetate 1 mm /!!" in thick
cast 0 nto acetate 1 m m / !!" in
thick
shape logs for cutting gnocchi
before setting
see above
cast onto acetate 1 mm / y" in
thick
stir into cold puree; shape logs
for cutting gnocchi before setting
*(% of total weight afbase mgredlents)
SALMON CUSTARD
INGREDIENT
Salmon belly, skinless
White fish stock
see page 6
Salt
QUANTITY
700g
450g
7g
Nutrifos 088 (/Cl Performance 2 g
Products brand)
Salmon liquid, from above 100 g
Propylene glycol alginate 0.5 g
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
fMC BioPolymer brand)
Rende red salmon fat, 20 g
from above
Activa RM 0.9 g
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.1 g
CP Kelco brand)
SCALING
700%
450%
7%
2%
100%
0.5%
(042%)*
20%
0.9%
(0.75%)*
0.1%
Set
(OC) (OF) (h)
55 131 5 min
refrigerated 18
45 113 10 min
refrigerated 12
refrigerated 12
45 113 10 min
refrigerated 12
PROCEDURE
See
page
247
below
242
254
CD Combine in food processor, and blend to smooth paste.
o Vacuum seal.
Cook in 40 C/ 104 OF bath forl h.
@) Centrifuge at12,000g for1 h.
Separate salmon liquid and rendered salmon fat, and reserve. Discard solids.
Disperse PGA into salmon liquid.
o Heat gently to 50 C / 122 OF to hydrate fully.
Slowly dri zzle into warm salmon liquid while homogenizing.
Add to mixture, and blend until smooth.
@ Transferto molds, and chi ll.
Yields120g
@ To serve, cook custard in 53 c / 127 OF bath or steam oven to core temperature of
52 C/ 126 of, about25 min.
from page 4119 *(% of total weight afsalman liquid and fat)
GEL S 253

~ ~ - . -..,.. --.- ...",.,....... --..- -- ...
EDAMAME SHEETS, KING CRAB, CINNAMON DASHI ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Fresh edamame (or defrosted 250g
frozen edamame)
Water 100 g
160 Bloom gelat in 13.75 g
Water 50g
Edamame puree, from above 200g
Water 25 g
Activa RM 3.5 g
ActivaGS 2 g
SCALING
125%
50 %
6.8%
25%
100%
12.5%
1.75%
(1.2%)*
1%
(0.69%)*
PROCEDURE
CD Blend to fine puree.
CD Pass thro ugh fin e sieve.
@) Reserve 200 g for later use.
@ Di sperse gelati n in cold water.
Heat until me lted.
Combine wit h gelat in mi xt ure.
(2) Bl end until compl etely smooth.
o Cast o nto sili cone mat, and spread into even layer 0.5 mm I Y .. in thick.
Refrigerate until set, at least 6 h, and cut into sq uares 7.5 cml 3 in wide.
Yields300 g
Hon das hi 200g
see page 15
100% @ Combine and warm. Add more ci nnamon extractto tas te. If the broth coagulates, strain
through fin e sieve.
Cinnamon extract
see page 27
Salt
King crab tail s o r claws
Clarified butter
Salt
Seasonal herbs
from page 411 8
2.5g
to taste
160g
(abo ut
fou r pieces)
50g
to taste
as needed
FLOURLESS GNOCCHI
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
1.25%
80%
25%
Season cinnamon dashi.
@ Add edamame sheets to stack, warmi ng t he m.
@ Setaside.
@ Sear until just cooked through, about 1 min per side.
@ Season crab pi eces.
@ Pl ace one pi ece on each plate.
@ Drape warmed edamame sheet over each pi ece.
@ Pour cinnamon dash i over edama me, and sprinkl e with seasonal herbs. Serve
immediately.
*(% of total weight afgelatin mixture, edamame puree, and water)
SCALING PROCEDURE
Russet potatoes, washed 900 g 150% CD Cook so us vide in 92 C 1 198 OF bath for 2 h.
(about four large)
160 Bloom gelatin 19.2g
Heavy cream 40g
Activa GS 6.4g
Potato puree, from above 600 g
Salt to taste
Unsalted butter, cut into cubes 120 g
Sage, thinly sliced 6g
from page 411 9
?O A
3.2%
(3%)*
6.6%
1.07%
(7%)*
100%
20%
1%
CD Cut potatoes in half, an d scoop out hot potato fl es h.
@) Press,whil estillhot, throughri ceror food mi ll.
@ Cool.
Reserve 600 g of puree.
Bloom gelat in in cold cream.
(2) Warm cream mi xture unti l gelatin is di ssolved.
o Cool.
Whisk into crea m.
@ Fold cream into potato mi xt ure to form dough.
Season dough.
@ Gently roll into log 2 cm I y., in. in di ameter.
@ Cut into desired size gnocchi .
@ Transferto parchment pape r-lin ed tray.
@ Refrigerate unti l firm, about 12 h.
@ Bring gnocchi to room temperature, about 20 min.
Cook butter in saute pan until solids begin to brown, about 3 min.
@ Add gnocchi, gently stirring until warmed through, about 2 min.
@ Remove from heat.
@ Fold in.
*(% of total weight of potatoes and cream)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yi elds 650 g
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STARCH GELS
DEEP-FRIED CUSTARD Yields450g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
All-purpose flour
White chicken stock
see page 6 or page 11
Egg yolks, blended
Cornstarch
Unsalted butter, cubed
Potato starch
Frying oil
Salt
XOSauce
see page 213
from page 4120
32g
250g
25g
9g
109
as needed
as needed
to taste
100g
12. 8%
100%
10%
3.6%
4%
42%
CD Whisk together.
(3) Bring to boil, and cook for 5 min.
Whisk together into smooth paste.
@) Temperhotstock into egg mi xt ure.
Return to pan, and cook over low heat until mixture thickens, about 2 min.
Stir butter into cooked custard until melted.
(2) Quickly cast hot mixture into sili cone mold in 2.5 cm / 1 in thick layer.
Refrigerate until set, about 3 h.
Cut custard into cubes or desired shapes, and dredge in potato starch; shake off excess.
@ Deep-fry cubes in 190 C / 375 OF oil until golde n, about 2 min.
@ Drain and season.
@ Pour over fr ied cubes generously just before serving.
The starch in the custard, and dusted on its exterior, allows us to
deep-fry it without a batter. This recipe is essentially a deep-fri ed savory
pastry cream. For a sweet version of the recipe, replace the chicken
stock with whole mil k, and add 26 g of sugar (20% of the overall weight).
BURMESE CHICKPEA TOFU LAKSA
INGREDIENT
Water
Chickpea flour
Salt
Turmeric powder
QUANTITY
1 kg
350g
14g
0.5g
Kumamoto or Olympia oysters 12 pieces
laksa broth 200 g
see page 17
Oyster juice, from above
Fryingoil
Mint, leaves
Cucumber, peeled, seeded,
and sliced
from page 4121
to taste
as needed
as needed
as needed
SCALING
100%
35%
1.4%
0.05%
20%
Yields 1.4 kg
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until completely homogenized.
(3) Line fine sieve with three layers of cheesecloth.
Strain chickpea mi xture through fin e sieve into
pot.
8) Bring to boil.
Remove from heat.
Whi sk into hot chickpea mixture.
(2) Divide mi xture evenly among molds 5 cm / 2 in
thi ck.
Refrigerate for 4 h until firmly set.
Cut into cubes.
@ Shuck, reserving juices separately.
@ Warm broth.
@ Add oyster juice to taste.
@ Add half of tofu cubes and oysters to broth, a nd
warm through.
@ Deep-fry remaining cubes in 190 C / 375 OF o il
until golde n, about 3 min.
@ Garnish.
GEL S
&&&3 gz
The particles in the chi ckpea mix-
ture must be very fine to yield an
elastic, homogenized gel instead
of one with a grainy, brittle texture .
Sieving with a fine sieve orthrough
cheesecloth is crucial to achieve
a good result.
The chickpea tofu is delicious
when deep-fried and served with
a sweet-and-sour glaze or a spicy
paste.
This so-called tofu is really
a starch gel that plays a big ro le in
the traditional cuisine of Myanmar
(formerly Burma).
255
Ii l.
!!!II
There are many styles of corn
bread across the United States. This
versi o n is nontraditional but has an
a mazing fl avor a nd texture. Sieving
out the ke rnel skins is a nice, but
optional, refi nement.
For a t e nde r starch custard, a 9%
ratio of cornstarch to liquid seems
to be ideal. The percentage of starch
in fres h corn va ri es dramat ically-
this recipe assumes that t he corn
jui ce itself contains 5% starch. You
can test the recipe using a sma ll
amount of your corn juice, and
adjust the quantity of cornstarch
to achieve the text ure you prefer.
In thi s interpretation of David
Kinch's Corn Pudding, we have
presented the typical flavo rs of
a late summe r succotas h. The
accompani me nts can be varied
seasonally, but the custard can
be made year-round with good
quality frozen corn.
CORN BREAD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Corn ke rnels (fresh-cut) 560 g
Unsalted butter
lard
Eggs, blended
Heavy cream
Whole milk
Flour
Isomalt
Cornmeal
Sugar
Baking powder
Bakingsoda
(from a bout
si x ears)
150 g
lOO g
lOO g
100 g
50g
150g
140g
100g
50g
3.2g
1.75 g
Thyme leaves, chopped to taste
from page 576
~ ~ " , a ; : 3# #li
Yields1 kg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Saute until browned, about 12 min.
27%
18%
18%
18%
10%
27%
25%
18%
10%
0.5%
0.3%
(3) Puree in blende r.
Add sauteed corn, an d reserve. Optionall y, first pass
corn through fine tamis to remove kernel skins.
o Mix together.
Fold into corn cream mi xture.
Transfe r to floured a nd grease loaf mold, filling half
full.
o Bake in 130 C / 265 OF oven to core temperature of
88 C/ 190 of, about20 min.
Res t at room tempe rature for 5 min.
Unmold, a nd slice to desired thi ckness.
@ Serve warm or toasted with bacon jam (see page 304).
CORN CUSTARD I NSP IR ED BY DAV I D KINCH Yields 340 g (four port ions)
INGREDIENT
Frozen organic sweet yell ow
corn, thawed
Corn juice, from above
Cornstarch
Salt
Fava beans, peeled
Olive oil
Fresh sweet peas, shucked
Oli ve oil
Sous vide vegetable jus
see page 36
Tomato water
see page 40
Unsalted butter, cubed
(use olive oil if serving cold)
Anise hyssop, fine julie nne
lime juice
Salt
from page 4122
QUANTITY SCALING
500g 500%
100 g 100%
4g 4%
1.7 g 1.7%
50g 50%
8g 8%
50 g 50 %
8g 8%
70 g 70 %
30g 30%
35g 35%
5g 5%
to taste
to taste
vITrUt:J.1 UI\MIIIJI
PROCEDURE
o Juice corn, preferably with Cha mpion-styl e
juice r (see page 2332), reserving 100 gj ui ce.
(3) Blend starch a nd salt into cold juice t o distribute
evenly.
Pour 25 g of jui ce in layer1 cm /% in deep into
each offour molds.
o Steam at 88 c / 190 OF until custards a re just set,
a bout 30 min.
Cool compl et ely.
Vacuum seal in one even layer.
o Cook so us vide in 75 C/ 167 OF bath for 25 min.
Remove from bag.
Vacuum seal in one even layer.
@ Cook sous vide in 70 C/158 OF bath fo r 18 min.
@ Remove from bag.
@ Co mbine while bringing to simme r.
@ Ble nd into simme ring liquid unti l fully e mulsifi ed .
@ Remove from heat.
@ Whi sk into warm butter sauce.
@ Steep for 3 min, a nd strain.
Season sauce.
@ Fold in warm beans a nd peas.
@ Re heat custards, and garnish with sauce.
@ Finish with hyssop blossoms, if avai lable .
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PEANUT"TOFU" INSPIRED BY YOSHIHIRO MURATA YieldsssO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 400g 100% CD Combine in pot.
Coconut milk sOg 12.5% CD Stir until palm sugar is compl etely dissolved.
Fish sauce 25g 6.25%
Palm sugar 109
2.5%
Peanut butter (smooth) 50g 12.5% o Blend into mixture.
Kuzu starch 42.5g 10.6% o Add to mixture, blending until starch is
(8%)* completely dispersed.
Pass through fine sieve.
@) Simmerfor20min until thick.
Salt to taste (2) Season mixture.
This recipe makes a typical Asian
Pour quickly into silicone molds.
peanut sauce, which is then set
Refrigerate until set, about 12 h. into a gel by using Kuzu starch.
Tom yum broth 200g 50% @ Bring broth to simmer.
The result isn't true tofu, but it has
see page 18
@Transfertofu to bowl, and garnish with scalli ons
a tofu-like texture.
Scallions, shredded as needed
and warm broth.
from page 4122 *(% of total weight offirstfive ingredients)
GEL S
257
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IDIAZABALGNOCCHI ADAPTE D FROM AN DO NI LUIS ADUR IZ YieldsSOO g
INGREDIENT
Cheese water (made with
Idiazabal)
seepage20
Kuzu root starch
Idiazabal cheese (or other
semifi rm cheese such as
Pecorino), grated
Salt
Ham broth
see page 16
Extra-virgin olive oil
Perilla (red and green), leaves
Lemon balm, leaves
Micro scali ion greens
from page 4123
QUANTITY
130g
32g
SOg
2.Sg
260g
to taste
as needed
as needed
as needed
EVERYTHING BAGEL BROTH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tomato j ui ce 200g
Cucumber juice SOg
Red onion juice 30g
Bagels, toasted until golde n SOg
and finely ground
Toasted sesame seeds 7g
Dried onion fl akes Sg
Black poppy seeds 3g
Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.6 g
Low-acyl gelian 0.2g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
Infused bagel broth, 200g
from above
Red wine vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
from page 4130
258
SCALING
100%
25%
(18%)'
38%
2%
200%
PROCEDURE
CD Bl end together.
o Vacuum seal.
Cook in 95 C / 203 OF bath for 1V2 h to create starch base.
o Bl end into starch base over medium heat until fully incorporated.
Transfe r dough to piping bag.
@ Ext rude directly into ice water; cut equall y sized dumplings wi th scissors as dough is
extruded.
(7) Heat broth.
Stir in gnocchi to warm through.
Garnish.
'(% of to tal weight of water and cheese)
SCALING
100%
25%
15%
25%
3.5%
2.5%
1. 5%
0. 3%
0.1 %
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine juices.
o Combine wit h jui ce mi xt ure.
Vacuum seal.
o Infuse in refrigeratorfor24 h.
Centrifuge at 27,SOOg for1 h.
@ Measure 200 g of clear broth.
(7) Dry blend toget her.
Bring broth to room temperature.
Yields200 g
This broth and the squid ink on the
previous page are both exampl es of
fluid gels (see page 285).
Add gelian mixture to broth, and shear unti l geli an is fuliy di spersed.
@ Season broth, and refri gerate.
VO LU ME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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DILL SPHERES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Low-acyl gellan 1.6 g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium O.4g
hexametaphosphate
Dill sprigs 130 g
Deionized water 150 g
Water 250g
Dill puree, fro m above
Celery juice, clarified
Calcium gluconate
Citric acid
from page 4130
85g
SOOg
30g
O.4g
SQUID INK FLUID GEL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 100g
Capers, brined 15g
Squid ink
109
Champagne vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
Low-acyl gell an 0.5g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.125g
Olive oil 109
Black pepper essential oil 19
Brominated vegetable oil O.lg
(weighting agent)
Bagel broth 200g
see previous page
Dill spheres 100g
see above
Tobiko roe, washed in aquavit 50g
Chives, minced as desired
Dill t ips as desired
Squid ink fluid gel, from above 40g
from page 4131
Yields300g
SCALING PROCEDURE
0.64%
(0.48%)*
0.16%
(0.72%)*
52%
60%
100%
34%
200%
12%
(6%)**
0.16%
(0.08%)**
@ Dryblend.
(3) Blanch dill sprigs in boilingwateruntil tender, about2 min.
Cool quickly, drain, and puree until smooth with deionized water.
@) Pass m i x t u r ~ through fine sieve, and measure 85 g for recipe.
Disperse gellan bl e nd in dill puree. Bring to simmer while shearing, and cool compl etely.
@) Transfermixture to squeeze bottle with 0.4 mm / Ya in tip.
0) Pipe small dropl ets into liquid nitrogen to freeze.
Drain froze n spheres, and reserve.
Whi sk together until fu lly dissolved to make setting bath.
@ Drop froze n spheres into sett ing bath, and all ow to skin to form for 2 min.
@ Drain set spheres, and transfer to fresh water bath to rinse.
@ Drain once more, and hold in fresh water bath unt il ready to serve.
*(% of total weight afwater and dill puree)
**(% of total weightafwater)
SCALING
100%
15%
10%
0.5%
(0.4%)*
0.125%
(0.7%)*
10%
1%
0.1%
(7%)**
200%
100%
50%
Yields 140 g (400 g with other components)
PROCEDURE
@ Blend until smooth.
(3) Season squid ink mixture.
Dry blend, and disperse in squid ink mixture.
@) Boil mixture for l min to full y hydrate.
Pour into desired container, and refrigerate until set,
about5 min.
@) Puree squid ink gel to fluid gel, transfer to squeeze
bottl e, and reserve.
0) Whisk to make black pepper oi l.
Di vide cold broth evenly among four bowls.
Spoon in dividuall y into each bowl.
40% @ Stir contents gently to evenly distribute ree, spheres, and
herbs. Drip some squid ink fluid gel and black pepper
oil into consomme, and stir once, gentl y, to create
suspe nded black streaks and oil droplets.
*(% of total weightaffirst three ingredients)
**(% of total weightafalive oil)
GE L S 259
COLD GELS
CD Select a texture and firmness. Possibilities range from brittl e to rubbery,
and from very tenderto very firm.
o Choose the gelling agents. The table at right offers at least two options
for each texture. Many of the formulas use a mixture oftwo or more
gelling agents.
Measure the gelling agents. Quantities are given relative to the weight
ofthe liquid, which is setto 100%. For example, use 8.5 g of160 Bloom
gelatin for every1 kg of wine to make a tender, elastic wine gel.
Best Bets for Cold Gels
Texture Firmness Gelling agents (scaling)'
elastic very tender 160 Bloom gelatin 0.75%
kappa carrageenan 0.1%
iota carrageenan 0.1%
high-acyl gell an 0.20%
kappa carrageenan 0.05%
tender 160 Bloom gelatin 0.85%
iota carrageenan 0.20%
kappa carrageenan 0.15%
firm locust bean gum 0.15%
agar 0.10%
xanthan gum 0.20%
160 Bloom gelatin 1%
LM pectin 2%
calcium gluconate 1%
iota carrageenan 0.25%
kappa carrageenan 0.25%
very firm 160 Bloom gelatin 1.5%
sucrose 65%
HM pectin 1.75%
citric or tartaric acid 1.5%
brittle firm low-acyl gellan 0.25%
hi gh-acyl gellan 0.15%
agar 0.35%
locust bean gum 0.4%
kappa carrageenan 0.2%
very firm agar 0.5%
low-acyl gell an 0.35%
(min)
5
3
3
25
3
3
25
3
3
25
3
3
3
3
3
o Dry blend the gelling agents, and disperse them into the cold flavorful
liquid.
@) Hydrate fully. Blend while heating to ensure the gelling agents are evenly
distributed during hydration. The table li sts appropriate hydration times
and temperatures.
@ Cast the gel into a mold. For detailed instructions, see page 4132.
Hydrate
(OC) (OF)
Cast or mold
60 140 cast directly into serving
85 185
vessel
95 203
60 140
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260 VO LU ME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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SALT GEL Yields450g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Distilled water, cold
Salt
Agar
from page 59
Note
400g
40g
l2g
100%
10%
3%
keep cold; softens rapidly at room temperature
highly stable when used with dairy liquids
opaque; not suitable for consomme gels
CD Disperse salt and agar in water.
o Bring to boil, and hold for 2 min while stirring
to hydrate.
Cast in desired mold.
o Refrigerate until set, aboutlO min. Grate overfood as
seasoning.
Example use
coating gelees, layered tender jellies
set yogurt
eggless creme brGlee
The salt gel can be grated and used
to season any dish in which you
want salt crystals that will not
dissolve.
See
page
...,. firmness of gel increases for 24 h cauliflower panna cotta 263
- works well with dairy liquids eggless custard/ flan
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t ~ x t u r e very similar to that of gelatin chi li pearls
but doesn't melt in the mouth as gelatin does
tenderize by tempering at room temperature firm panna cotta
firm texture develops when made with liquid of 18 Brix savory pate de fruit
highly stable when used with dairy liquids cold terrines
_ tenderize by fempering at room temperature firm aspics, suspended solids
-- firm texture develops when made with liquid of75 Brix pate de fruit
--..
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works well with all liquids but tends to weep over time
highly stable when used with dairy li quids sunny-side up egg
265
268
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GELS
npxt
261
TWO-METER PARMESAN SPAGHETTO ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields 300 g (about 15 spaghetto strands)
INGREDIENT
Parmesan cheese, finely grated
Water
Parmesan water, from above
Agar(Textu ras brand)
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
4s0g
4s0g
300g
2.1 g
150%
150%
CD Combine, and bring to boil.
o Remove from heat, and infuse for1 min at room temperature.
Strain through fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and cool.
o Measure 300 g of Parmesan water.
Dry blend agar and locust bean gum, and dispe rs e into cold Parmesan water.
locust bean gum (POR/A2 Powder, 0.45 g
100%
0.7%
0.15%
Bringto boil, and hold for 2 min to fully hydrate. Skim any surface scum that appears.
o Fill Texturas-style syringe immediately with Parmesan water.
TIC Gums brand)
Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste
Flaky sea salt to taste
Lemon zest, finely grated to taste
Warm Parmesan oil (or olive oil) to taste
see page206
from page 4143
Pipe quickly into coiled PVC tubes measuring 2 m / 6Y2 ft long and 0.5 em / ',4 in. in
diameter; hold opposite e nd of each tube shut with one hand to prevent Parmesan
water from shooting out.
Seal tubes.
@ Submergefilledtubes in ice-water bath until set, about 2 min.
@ Shoot air from soda siphon into one end of each tube to extrude noodles.
@ Season.
Instead of topping pasta with a cheese sauce or
grated cheese, this recipe makes a "pasta" out
of the cheese itself.
LONG ISLAND ICED TEA GEL SHOT Yields43sg
INGREDIENT
Water
160 Bloom gelat in
Cola
Lemonjuice
Gin
Rum
Tequila
Triple Sec
Vodka
from page 4141
QUANTITY
sOg
6.7sg
120 g
60g
40g
40g
40g
40g
40g
SCALING
42%
5.6%
(7. 6%)*
100%
50%
33%
33%
33%
33%
33%
PROCEDURE
CD Disperse gelatin into cold water.
o Heat until fully dissolved.
Remove mixture from heat, a nd let cool.
o Combine, and whisk in gelatin mixture.
Pour into serving containers.
Refrigerate unt il fully set, about 5 h.
*(% of total weight of all liquids)
SPICED WALNUT VINEGAR GEL Yields200g
INGREDIENT
White duck stock, cold
see pagell
Agar
Salt
Ascorbic acid
Sugar
Black peppercorns,
toasted and cracked
Coriander seeds, toasted
and crushed
Sichuan peppercorns,
toasted and crushed
from page 5111
262
QUANTITY
200g
6g
6g
1 g
1 g
3g
2g
1.sg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Disperse agar in stock.
3%
3%
0.5%
0.5%
1.5%
1%
0.75%
o Whisk into stock until dissolved.
Add to stock.
o Boil for 3 min to hydrate agar.
Strain thorough fine sieve direct ly into hemisphere nonstick mold.
Refrigerate until set. Grate over so us vide foie gras or other poultry as seasoning.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUA L
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CAULIFLOWER PANNA COTTA ADAPTED FROM THOMAS KELLER Yields 850 g (about16 panna cottas)
INGREDIENT
Forthe panna cotta:
Water
Cauliflower trimmings, thinly sliced
Cauliflower stock, from above
Cauliflower florets, thinly sliced
Heavy cream
Unsalted butter
Salt
Cauliflower stock, from above
160 Bloom gelatin
Cauliflower puree, from above
Forthe oyster juice gelee:
QUANTITY
500g
300g
350g
250 g
215g
30g
to taste
50g
3.8g
400g
Water 28g
160 Bloom gelatin 0.2 g
Oyster juice (from shucked oysters) 42 g
Black peppercorns, finely ground to taste
Sturgeon caviar as needed
from page 4142
SCALING
200%
120%
140%
100%
86%
12%
20%
1.52%
(0.85%)*
160%
11.2%
0.08%
(0.28%)**
17%
PROCEDURE
CD Simmer over low heatfor 1 h.
o Strain through fin e sieve.
Cool stock at room te mperature, and reserve 400 g for later use.
o Combine in pot.
Simme r for 35 min or until florets are ve ry te nder.
@) Puree until smooth.
o Strain puree through fin e sieve.
Season.
Measure 400 g of puree, and reserve.
@ Bloom gelatin in cooled stock.
@ Stir stock into warm puree until gelatin has dissolved, 3-5 min.
@ Spoon into 16 small serving bowls or cups.
@ Refrigerate panna cotta for at least 4 h to set.
@ Bloom gelatin in cold water in small , stainl ess steel bowl.
@ Warm until dissolved.
@ Combine with gelati n mi xture.
Season mi xture.
@ Refrigerate gelee for 30 min .
@ Strain.
@ Add about 6 g of oyster jui ce gelee to top of each panna cotta portion to coat.
@) Refrigerate until completely set, about 4 h.
Garnish.
*(% of total weight of cauliflower stock and cauliflower puree used in panna catta)
**(% of total weight of water and oyster juice used in oyster juice geLee)
GEL S 263
~
KNOT FOIE ADAPTED
INGREDIENT
Foie gras torchon
see page 104
Konjac gum (Ticagel Konjac HV-D,
TIC Gums brand)
Agar (Telephone brand)
Xanthan gum
Water
Eggyolk
Kimchi
Xanthan gum
White raisins
Water
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Salt
FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
QUANTITY SCALING
225g 100%
1.05 g 0.47%
0.6g 0.27%
0.45g 0.2%
75g 33.3%
109
4.4%
250g lll %
O.4g 0.18%
200g 88%
125g 55.6%
O.4g 0.17%
to taste
Yields 300 g (four portions)
PROCEDURE
CD Microwave or otherwise heatto 82 C/ 180 OF. Torchon fat will melt, and terrine
will split.
(3) Dryblend.
Blend with warm foie gras.
o Heat water to 80 c I 176 of.
Blend in eggyolk.
Blend in foie gras mixture until fully incorporated.
o Pour into nonstick mold in layer 1.5 cm lYe in thick.
Refrigerate foie gras until set, about 3 h.
Puree until smooth.
@ Transfertosqueeze bottle.
@ Combin e.
@ Refrigerate for 3 h to steep.
@ Shear with raisins to form puree.
@ Season raisin puree.
@ Transfe rtosecondsqueeze bottl e.
Cilantro Delfino springs or cilantro 30 g 13.3% @ Cut setfoie gras into strips 8 mm by 12.5 cm 1)4 in by 5 in.
@) Tiestrips carefull y into knots without breaking them.
stems, cut into 1 cm 1% in batons
Japanese puffed rice 50 g
from page 4144
MADEIRA GElEE
INGREDIENT
Madeira wine (dry)
White chicken stock
see page 6
QUANTITY
200g
150g
Cassia bark, toasted and 2 g
crushed
Salt 4g
Low-acyl gellan 2.1 g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand)
Sodium citrate 0.7 g
High-acyl gel Ian (Kelcogel 0.55 g
LTlOO, CP Kelco brand)
from page 5131
2fi4
22.2%
@ Divide knotted foie gras among four plates.
@ Garnish with ci lantro and puffed ri ce.
@ Dot plates with reserved kimchi and raisin purees.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine.
75% (3) Bring to simmer.
Remove from heat.
1%
2%
1.05%
(0.6%)*
0.35%
(0.2%)*
o Add to hot stock, and infuse for 5 min.
Strain and cool.
Season cooled liquid.
o Blend into cool ed liquid.
Heat to 95 C I 203 of, and hold at te mperature for at least 3 min to fully hydrate.
Pour layer 0.5 cm 1)4 in thick into no nstick mold.
@ Refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
Yields350 g
0.27%
(0.75%)*
@ Cut into cubes, and refrigerate until use. Use as seasoning for salads or hearty stews.
*(% ojtotal weight ojMadeira and chicken consomme)
VOLUM E 6 . KITCHEN MAN UAL
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CHILI PEARLS INSPIRED BY MICHAEL LAISKONIS Yields350 g
INGREDIENT
For chili oil:
Grapeseed oil
Aleppo pepper flakes
Cayenne
Chili flakes
For chili pearls:
QUANTITY
250g
30g
109
7g
Piquillo peppers, roasted and peeled
(store-bought)
260g
Salt
Fresh red Thai chili peppers
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Red pepper puree, from above
Water
Salt
Agar(Texturas brand)
Locust bean gum (POR/ A2 Powder,
TIC Gums brand)
Chili oil, from above
from page 4145
6g
2.5g
0.3g
250 g
100g
3g
19
O.4g
250g
GUINNESS "pATE DE FRUIT"
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sugar 150g
Isomalt 100 g
HM pectin (Brown Ribbon HV, 10 9
Obipektin brand)
Guinness beer 300g
Glucose syrup DE 40 50g
Tartaric acid 109
Pretzels, ground 50 g
Isomalt 20 g
N-Zorbit M (National Starch brand) 10 g
from page 4145
SCALING
250%
30%
10%
7%
260%
6%
2.5%
0.3%
250%
100%
3%
1%
(0.78%)'
0.4%
(0.01%)'
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
(3) Vacuum seal, and cooksous vide in 70 C/ 158 OF bath forl2 h.
Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
o Reserve 250 g of oil in bowl over ice.
Blend.
Press through sieve.
(2) Measure 250 g of puree; keep hot.
Combine to form chili pearl base.
Blend.
@ Disperse into chili pearl base.
@ Bring base to boil.
@ Simmerfor2min.
@ Transferhotmixture quickly to syringe or fine-tipped squeeze bottle.
250% @ Expel chili pearl base one drop at a time while sti li hot onto surface of cold chili
oil. Beads wili set almost instantly.
@ Serve immediate ly, or store beads in chili oil, refrigerated.
*(% of total weight offirst six ingredients in chili pearls)
Yields400g
SCALING PROCEDURE
150% . CD Mix togethe r in pot.
100%
10%
(2%)*
300% (3) Combine with sugar and isomalt mixture, and cook to 110 C / 230 OF.
50% Use refractomete r to check soluble solids concentration, and cook until reduced to
10%
75Brix.
o Cast hot mixture into mold .
Cool at room temperature for 4 h to set gel.
Chili in freezer for 5 min to simplify cutting.
(2) Cut into 2 cm /3;" in squares.
50% Blend together to fine powder.
20% Dust over cut pate de fruit.
10% @ Serve, or rese rve dusted squares on nonstick sheets at room temperature.
'(% of total weight afsugar, isomalt, beer, and glucose)
GEL S 265
...
e
. I
OLIVE OIL NOODLES INSPIRED BY JORDI CRUZ
INGREDIENT
Tapioca starch
Water
Olive oil
Salt
300 Bloom gelatin
LM pectin
(Genupectin LM 104 AS,
CP Kelco brand)
Agar (Texturas brand)
Mineral water
QUANTITY
100g
100g
160g
5g
4g
2g
0.7 g
120g
80g
SCALING
62.5%
62.5%
100%
3.1 %
2.5%
1.25%
0.56%
75%
50%
PROCEDURE
@ Vacuum seal, a nd cook sous vide in 80 C / 176 of bat h for 2 h.
o Measure 80 g of pregelatinized starch paste, and reserve warm.
Heatto 30 C / 85 OF.
@ Holdwarm.
Dry bl end to make gel powder.
Whisk gel powder into water.
0) Bring mixture to boil.
Blend starch paste into warm ge l solution.
Yields 350 g
Pregelatinized starch paste,
from above
Remove from heat, and blend by hand over ice until completely cool and fluid.
Olive oil, chilled but still fluid as needed
from page 41 46
@ Slowly blend in warmed o live oil until fully emulsifi e d to form olive oil noodle base.
@ Transfer noodl e base to pastry bag.
@ Extrude noodl es 1 mm / 1'" in thick into chill ed o li ve oi l bath.
@ Refri gerate, and all ow to set for at least for 4 h before serving.
@ Garn ish with fl aky salt and herbs as desire d.
SEA URCHIN TOFU, TOKYO NEGI, SESAME, PONZU
Yields 400 g(about 8 servings)
INSPIRED BY YOSHIHIRO MURATA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Hon dashi, cold 200 g
see page 15
160 Bloom gelatin 3.6g
Agar O.4g
Sea urchin tongues 200g
Tokyo negi, thinly sliced 40 g
So us vide ponzu 80 g
see page22
Yuzu juice 8 g
Toasted sesame oil 5 g
from page 5202
SCALING
100%
1. 8%
*(0.9%)
0.2%
*(0.7%)
100%
13. 3%
26.6%
2.6%
1.6%
PROCEDURE
@ Disperse gelatin and agar in dashi.
o Boil for 3 min to fully hydrate agar.
Blend into hot das hi.
@ Cast immedi ately into 8 small individual bowls to create layer3 cm / 1)4 in thick.
Refri gerate until tofu is fully set, at least 5 h, before serving.
@ Toss negi with yuzu jui ce and toasted sesame oil, and arrange on top of tofu.
0) Pour ponzu aro und tofu.
*(% of total weight of han doshi and sea urchin tongues)
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OLIVE OIL GUMMY WORMS Yields445g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
200 Bloom gelatin 20g
Water 40g
Water 110 g
Isomalt 100g
Clear honey 55 g
Glucose syrup DE 40 25g
Gum arabic 20g
Olive oil 75g
Vanilla seeds and pulp 1 g
Thyme essential oil 0.1 g
from page 4147
SHERRY GEL CUBE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 50g
Chamomile blossoms 15 g
Agar 2g
She rry vinegar 150g
from page 5-270
SCALING PROCEDURE
27%
53%
147%
133%
73%
33%
27%
100%
1.3%
0.13%
SCALING
33%
10%
1.3%
100%
0) Disperse gelatin into cold water.
@) Vacuum seal gelatin mixture.
Hydrate in 60 ' ( / 140 ' F bath for 30 min.
o Set as ide gelat in mixture.
Combine.
Bringto boil.
(2) Whisk in gelati n mixture.
Whisk in; emul sify fu ll y to fo rm gummy worm base.
Whisk into gummy worm base.
@ Cast base into wo rm-shaped molds.
@ Cool.
@ Refrigerate for at least 4 h to set.
@ Remove from molds .
PROCEDURE
0) Steep blossoms in 70 ' ( / 158 ' F wate r for 10 min.
@) Strain and cool.
Disperse agar in cooled chamomile tea.
o Mix into chamomil e tea, and bring to boil.
Yields215 g
Pour quickly through fine sieve into desired mold, and set at room temperature for 5 min.
Cut into 3 mm /)Is in cubes, and refri gerate unt il use. Use as seasoning for cold cuts and salad.
GElS 267
~
SUNNY-SIDE UP "EGGS" ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 800 g (about 25 "eggs")
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the egg whites:
Coconut milk
Sugar
Cardamom, cracked
Guargum (8/ 22A Powder, TIC
Gums brand)
500g
20g
9g
0.8g
Locust bean gum 0.8 g
(POR/ A2 Powder, TIC Gums brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T) 0.8 g
For the egg yolks:
100%
4%
1.8%
0.16%
0.16%
0.1 6%
Carrot juice 250g 50%
(from about
500 g of carrots)
Glucose syrup DE 40
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T)
25g 5%
1.5 g 0.3%
Smoked maple syrup
Salt
For assembly:
Water
to taste
to taste
250g
Kappa carrageenan (Genugel 1 g
CHP2, CP Kelco brand)
Locust bean gum 1 g
(POR/ A2 Powder, TIC Gums brand)
Potassium chloride 0.12 g
Black pepper, coarsely ground
Coarse salt
Olive oil
from page 4148
268
to taste
to taste
to taste
50%
0.2%
0.2%
0.024%
CD Combine.
Steep milk mixture for 20 min in refrige rator.
Strain.
@ Blend to fully incorporate into milk mixture.
Heatto 80 ' C/ 176 ' F.
@) Pour 20 g of mixture directly from pot onto each of25 plates to create egg white
shapes. Work quickly; gel mixture sets rapidly.
([) Refrigerate "egg" whites.
Blend until fully incorporated.
Season juice mixture.
@ Pour into sili cone hemisphere molds 5 cm / 2 in. in diameter.
@ Freeze completely, about 2 h, to form yo lks.
@ Blend in pot.
@ Heatgum mixture to 80 'C/ 180 ' F.
e Cool to 45 ' C/ 113 ' F, and hold attemperature.
@ Remove frozen yolks from molds with toothpick or skewer.
@ Dip yolks into cooled gum mixture.
@ Pl ace one coated yolk in center of each "egg" white.
@ All owyolks to thaw at least 30 min before serving.
@ Season.
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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COATING GELS
CD Select a temperature and texture. If the food wi ll be coated hot, fewer
options are avai lable, but the table Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels below
presents good formu las that yie ld text ures ranging from e lastic and
tender to brittle and firm.
o Choose the gelling agent. We give several options for hot and cold
coating gels in the table offormulas. Some options use a mixture of two
or more gelling agents.
Measure and mix the gell ing agents. Set the we ight of the li quid to 100%.
For example, to make a smooth licorice coating gel for cold food, use
Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels
Temperature Texture Firmness Gelling agent (scaling)'
(DC)
cold elast ic tender 160 Bloom gelatin 2.3% 60
xanthan gum 0.2%
firm 160 Bloom gelatin 3% 60
brittle tender iota carrageenan 0.45% 75
kappa carrageenan 0.35%
hot or cold elast ic tender sorbitol 3.00% 95
agar 0.60%
xanthan gum 0.25%
low-acyl gellan 0.35% 95
xanthan gum 0.20%
firm sorbito l 2% 95
160 Bloom gelatin 1%
agar 1%
brittle firm low-acyl gellan 0.7% 95
hi gh-acyl gell an 0.2%
0.7 g of low-acyl gell an and 0.2 g of hi gh-acyl gell an for every 100 g
of li corice infusion.
o Disperse the gelli ng agents in the liquid.
Hydrate fu ll y. Hydration times and temperatures are indicated
in the table.
@) Applythecoating. Control the temperature of the gel to maintain
a barely liqUid consistency wh il e dipping the food or brushing on the
coating.
Hydrate
See
(OF) (min) Coat Example use page
140 5 cool over ice until traditional chaudfroid,
syrupy, about 15 min, sous vide chicken breast
140 5
before applying to food with truffle jus coating,
cured salmon loin with
watercress juice coating
167 3 keep gel base warm crimini in ambe r 271
wh il e applying coat ing;
the gel sets quickly
203 3 chill food with liquid modern chaud-chaud,
nitrogen before coating warm oysters with
to get a th in coveri ng seaweed vinegar gelee
203 3
203 3 prechill food with li quid foie gras torchon wit h 272
nitrogen to coat th inly beet and hibiscus glaze
203 3 dip food in bath of gel salmon with licorice 272
solution to coat evenl y
from page 4151 '(set weight of liquid to 700%)
One problem with coating gels is their tendency to slip off the surface rather
than coating it. A way to avoid this problem is to prepare the surface by
scoring or pricking it (see page 4158). Another method to he lp adherence
is to get the surface very cold. Dousing it in liquid ni trogen he lps with this .
GEL 5 269
~
FOIE GRAS PARFAIT SPHERES Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Raw duck foie gras 425g
White duck stock 170g
see page 6
160 Bloom gelat in 10 9
Insta Cure No.1 6g
Salt 6g
Sugar 3g
Hazelnuts or apricot kernels, 18whole
roasted and peeled (optional)
from page 4152
FOIE GRAS CHERRIES
100%
40%
2.4%
1.4%
1.4%
0.7%
CD Cook sous vide in 57 C / 135 OF bath to core temperat ure of 56 e / 133 of, about20 min.
o Disperse gelat in in small amount of cold stock, and heat until fully dissolved.
Whisk gelatin mixt ure into re maining stock.
@ Blend warm foi e gras with gelat in mixture and remaining ingredients.
Pipe 12 g of mixture into each of36 si li cone he misphere molds, each 2.5 cm / 1 in. in
diameter.
Refrigerate for at least 4 h to set.
o If using kernel "pit," scoop 1 cm / % in hemisphere from center of molded foie gras.
Melt flat surface of each he mi sphere wit h blowtorch, and press kernel into center divot.
Join pairs of hemispheres to form spheres.
@ Insert 10 cm / 4 in skewer into each foie gras sphere, and freeze.
@ Using metal skewer dipped in ve ry hot water, indent top of each sphere to mimic dimple
that holds stem, and sculpt side of sphere to mimi c natural crevasse of cherry.
@ Dip sphere into hot water and then into liquid nitroge n. Refrigerate until cool.
Yields 18 cherries
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sour cherry juice 150g
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 1.5g
CP Kelco brand)
Cherry pickling brine 85g
see page 180
160 Bloom gelat in 14g
Black cherry puree 200g
Amarena cherry syrup 150g
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.6g
CP Kelco brand)
Foie gras parfait spheres, 100g
100%
1%
(0.26%)*
57%
9.3%
(2.4%)*
133%
100%
0.4%
(0.07%)*
67%
CD Disperse gell an into juice, and bring to boi l.
o Pour li quid into beaker set in ice-water bath.
Blend mi xture with immersion blender as it sets to form sour cherry fluid gel.
@ Disperse gelat in in small amount of brin e.
Heat mixt ure until gelati n is ful ly dissolved.
Blend in remaining ingredients.
o Whisk in sour cherry flu id gel.
Vacuum seal to re move accumulated ai r bubbles.
Dip froze n foie gras spheres into cherry liquid, coating evenl y.
see page 270
(fou r spheres)
@ Refrigerate until set, about 1 h. To serve, tempe r at room temperature for 10 min.
from page 4153
HALIBUT CHEEK GEL BASE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White fish stock 400g
see page 6
Maltvinegar 30g
Salt 4g
Fish stock mi xt ure, 150g
from above
Low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel 0.75 g
F, CP Kelco brand)
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.36 g
LT100, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium citrate
Halibut cheeks,
from above
from page 5144
270
0.36g
400g
*(% of total weight of all other ingredients exceptfoie gras)
SCALING
100%
7.5%
1%
45%
0.19%
(0.5%)*
0.1%
(0.2%)*
0.1%
(0.2%)*
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Reduce stock to 150 g.
o Mixwit h reduced stock.
Cool stock completely.
Yields180 g
@ Disperse gell ans and sodium citrate in cold stock.
Heatto 95 e / 203 OF, and hold at temperature for
3 min to fully hydrate.
Keep gel mixture above 65 C / 149 OF to prevent it
from gel ling prematurely.
o Dip skewered cheeks into hot gell ed stock three
times, all owing gel to set between dips.
Place coated cheeks on si li cone baking mat.
Refrigerate for 1 h to cool and set.
@ Vacuum seal and cook sous vide in 49 c / 120 OF bath
to core temperature of 48 e / 118 OF, about 35 min.
*(% of total weight of reduced fish stock)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUA L
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CRIMINIIN AMBER I NSP IR ED BY FERRAN ADR I A
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Crimini mushrooms, stem on, 50g
peeled
Dried porcini 30 g
Water 400g
Salt 7.5g
Kombu 5g
Koji -Aji (Aj inomoto brand) 2g
Bonito flakes 19
Iota carrageenan (Texturas brand) 0.9 g
Kappa carrageenan (Texturas
brand)
Aged Parmesan, small dice
Breakfast radish, small dice
Pickled dried fig, small dice
see page 177
Pressure-cooked sesame seeds
see page 1S1
0.7g
20 pieces
20 pieces
20 pieces
30g
SCALING
100%
60%
800%
15%
10%
4%
2%
1. 8%
(0.45%)*
1.4%
(0.35%)*
60%
Yields200g
PROCEDURE
@ Clean.
Cut into at least20 sl ices 1 mm / )'" in thick.
Coverwith damp paper towel, and refrigerate.
Rinse.
Soak for 5 min.
Strain.
o Add to rinsed and soaked porcinis.
Simmerfor 10 min.
Mix into porcini mixture.
@ Simmer for 10 min.
@Add to porcini mi xture.
@ Remove from heat.
@ Infuse for 1 min.
@ Strain; measure 200 g of stock .
@ Combine with reserved porcini stock.
@ Bring to boil to dissolve completely.
@ Remove from heat.
@ Skim off any accumulated foam.
@ Dip ch ill ed crimini sli ces in hot gel mixture; coat slices completely.
@Transferto nonstick baking sheet or li ghtly oil ed plastic wrap; ensure slices remain
coated.
@ Garnish gel-encased crimini sli ces.
Dab evenly on finished crimini .
from page 4154 *(% of total weight of reserved porcini stock)
GEL 5 271
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SALMON POACHED IN LICORICE ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields280 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Distilled water 2.4kg
Hard, glassy black licorice 125 g
sticks (store-bought), crushed
into small pieces
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 11 .2 g
CP Kelco brand)
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 3.2g
LTlOO, CP Kelco brand)
Licorice stock, from above 1.6 kg
Salmon fillet, skinned and cut 200g
evenly into squares (four squares,
50 g each)
from page 4155
SCALING
150%
7.8%
0.46%
(0.7%)'
0.13%
(0.2%)'
100%
12.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine while bringing to simmer.
(3) Cool for 5 min.
Process mixture in food processorfor 5 min or until li corice is fully dissolved.
@) Strain licorice stock through fine sieve.
Reserve 1.6 kg of stock, refrigerated.
Dry blend.
(2) Disperse gell an gum mixture into cold stock.
@) Heat mixture to 95 "C / 203 "F unti l gell ans are hydrated, about 2 min.
Skim any foam from surface using small sieve.
@) Insert wooden skewer into side of each fish square and, holding skewer, dip squares
individually into stock.
@ Place coated salmon on plates to cool until set, about 5 min.
@ Dip fish into stock again to apply second coat.
@ Transfe rfishtochilled tray li ned with silicone mat.
@ Set at room temperature, about 5 min.
@ Wrap each coated square tightly in plasti c wrap.
@ Vacuumseal individually, and cook sous vide in 44 "C/ 111 "F bath to core temperature
of43 "C/ 109 "F, about25 min.
*(% of total weight of licorice stock)
FOIE GRAS TORCHON WITH BEET AND HIBISCUS GLAZE
ADAPTED FROM PAUL LlEBRANDT
Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT
Beet juice
see page 2336
Reduced beet juice, from above
Dried hibiscus flowers
Dried orange peel
Sorbitol
160 Bloom gelatin
Agar (Texturas brand)
Salt
Foie gras torchon
see pagelO4
Liquid nitrogen
from page 4158
QUANTITY
800g
(from 1 kg of
beets, about
five large)
250g
20g
5g
12.5 g
5g
2g
to taste
500g
as needed
SCALING
320%
100%
8%
2%
5%
2%
0.8%
200%
This elegant preparation is a Modernist version of the classic foie gras
terrine in aspic. Here, the hibiscus adds both flavor and color, some of
which penetrates the foie gras.
PROCEDURE
CD Reduce over medium heat until syrupy, about 30 min.
(3) Cool at room temperature.
Measure 250 g of reduced juice.
o Bringjuice to boil, and remove from heat. Add hibiscus and orange peel, and
steep at room temperature for15 min.
Strain, and cool completely.
Combine, and disperse in infused juice.
(2) Boil for 2 min to fully hydrate, and keep warm.
@) Season.
Cool mixture to 65 "C / 149 "F, and hold at temperature.
@) Centerfoie gras terrine on cooling rack.
@ Prick evenly across surface with fine skewer so that gel wi ll adhere more eaSil y.
@ over liquid ni trogen to freeze terrine surface.
@ Pour warm glaze directly from pot over terrine in one fluid motion to coat evenly;
repeat.
@ Refrigerate glazed terrine for at least 8 h before serving. Pigment from glaze will
permeate terrine.
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HALIBUT IN VERBENA BUBBLE IN SP IRED BY MARC VEYRAT Yields lBO g (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Halibut/illet, skinless
Coconut cream (store-bought)
240 Bloom gelatin
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
For lemon verbena encasement:
Water
Lemongrass, thinly sliced
Mint leaves
Lemon verbena essential oil
AgadTexturas brand)
Sorbitol
For fish sauce condiment:
Fish sauce
Honey
Lime juice
Rice vinegar
Xanthan gum (Ke ltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
from page 4156
The verbena gel encaseme nt is
intended only as an aromatic
cooking vessel for the fish; it should
not be consumed. It imbues the
fish with the scent of the essential
oil and makes for a dramat ic
presentation.
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100g 100% CD Cut into four equal rectangles.
o Setaside.
100g 100% Combine.
2g 2% @) Heat to di ssolve gelatin.
0.5g 0.5% Pour in layerl mm /:;" in thick into rectangul ar mold on baking sheet lined with
plastic wrap .
@) Refrigerate for 2 h to set.
(2) Pl ace halibut rectangl e on coconut gel; ali gn width of rectangle with edge of gel
sheet .
Cut long rectangle of gel equal in width to halibut rectangle and long e nough to
wrap completely around fish.
Roll halibut tightly in long gel rectangle.
@ Cut and roll gel r ~ u n d remaining halibut portions.
400g 400% @ Blanch mint leaves for 2 min in boiling water
@ Cool qui ckly in ice water. 40 g 40%
20g 20%
0.2g 0.2%
@ Blend bl anched mint with re maining ingredients until smooth.
@ Strai n.
109 10%
(2.5%)*
2g 2%
(0.5%)*
30g 30%
20 g 20%
20 g 20%
10 9
10%
@ Disperse in mint mi xtu re.
@ Heat to 95 C / 203 OF fo r 3 min to hydrate.
@ Re move from heat, and pour e nough gel mi xture to make layer 2 mm / }I, in th ick in
bottom offourdeep rectangul ar molds that are larger than halibut rectangles.
@ Let gel set in molds for 2 min .
@ Place roll ed halibut on top of gel in each mold .
@ Pour remai ning gel mi xt ure quickly over each roll ed halibut to form airtight seal
around fish.
@ Refri gerate until set, about 10 min.
@ Blend together until dissolved, and rese rve.
@ Remove e ncased halibut porti ons from molds.
@ Vacuum seal port ions together.
0.15g 0.15%
@ Cook sous vide in 48 c / 11 8 OF bath or steam oven to core te mperature of 47 C /
117 OF, about 25 min.
@ Transferportions fro m bag to plates.
@ To serve, break ve rbe na gel casing at table to reveal steamed fi sh and liquefied
coconut gel. Remove verbena gel casing, and discard.
@ Serve with fi sh sauce condiment.
*(% of total weight of water in verbena bubble encasement)
Marc Veyrat used a hot gel casing as a cooking vessel, in the same way
that parchment, salt, clay, and pig bl adders have been used in the past. The
original version of this dish was a pi ece of turbot e ncased in le mongrass with
white chocolate. Veyrat 's insight presents a huge range of possibiliti es, both
aest heti c and aromatic, forthe Modernist chef. Imagine a steamed pigeon
e ncased with suspended rose petals in a cl ear, rose-scented gel. Or a black
gel that is broken open at the table to reveal a suspended whol e egg.
The coconut cream is solidifi ed with gelatin for assembly but melts into a
li quid when served hot.
GEL S
Be sure to work quickly with the hot
gel because it begins to set below
45 C / 113 OF. Warming the ladle will
prevent the gel from setting on the
surface of the ladl e.
273
/
HOT GELS
CD Select a texture. Possibilities range from tender to firm and from elastic
to brittle.
(3) Choose the gelling agents. The table Best Bets for Hot Ge ls below gives at
least two options for each texture. Most fo rmul as use a mixture of two or
more gelling agents.
o Dry blend t he gelling agents, and d isperse them in the flavorful liquid.
Hydrate fu ll y. Bl e nd whi le heati ng to ensure thatthe gell ing agents are
evenly distribute d during hydration. Usually 2-3 mi n at 95 C/ 203 ' F is
sufficient to hydrate t he gell ing agents.
Scale and mi x the gelling agents. All quantities indicated in t he table are
proportional to the weight of the puree o r juice. For example, to make a
brittle, firm gel wit h consomme, us e 0.5 g of agar for every 100 g of
consomme.
@) Cast. See t he table fo r casting directions and references to example
recipes. See page 4132 for il lustrated, step- by-step instructions.
Most hot gels can also be served cold. Methycellulose gels are the one
exception: they set when hot and melt when cold-see page 4170.
Best Bets for Hot Gels
Hydrate
Texture Ceiling agents (scaling) ' (OC) (oF)
Cast or mold Note Example See page
tender, xanthan gum 0.25% 95 203 cast directly into bone marrow-li ke texture warm aspic 277
very elastic low-acyl gell an 0.10%
servi ng vessel
sorbitol 5.00% 95 203 cast directly into opaque, so not suited warm panna cotta,
hi gh-acyl gell an 0.20%
servi ng vessel to clear gels eggless creme
brulee
agar 0.10%
high-acyl gellan 0.20% 95 203 cast d irectly into creamy mouthfeel warm panna cotta,
xanthan gum 0.15% serving vesse l eggless cre me
low-acyl gell an 0.10% brulee
tender, xantha n gum 0.15% 95 203 cast into se rving vesse l
e lastic locust bean gum 0.15%
ormold
low-acyl gel Ian 0.10%
hi gh-acyl gell an 0.20% 95 203 cast into serving vessel eggless fl an, custard
low-acyl gell an 0.10%
ormold
firm, elastic locust bean gu m 0.25% 85 185 best molded; cut best wit h no ndai ry ge ls; gel noodles
agar 0.20%
with care add 5% sorbitol for tender
texture
high-acyl gel Ian 0.25% 85 185 best molded; cut pate de fruit- li ke texture hot eggless flan
low-acyl gell an 0.20%
wit h care
xanthan gum 0.10%
firm, agar 0.4% 85 185 best suited for cutting hot terrine
semi brittle guargum 0.2%
and shaping
hi gh-acyl gell an 0.40% 95 203 best suited for cutting
agar 0.25%
and shaping
very firm, agar 0.5% 85 185 best su ited for cutti ng tends to weep overtime gel seasoning 5267
brittle
and shaping cubes
low-acyl gellan 0.30% 95 203 best suited fo r cutting gel seasoning
hi gh-acyl gell an 0.15%
and shaping cubes
from page 4160 '(set weight of liquid to 100%)
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AGAR CARBONARA ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields1kg(about20portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Consomme madrilene 500g
see page 42
Agar(Texturas brand) 3g
Locust bean gum (POR/A2 Powder, 1.25g
TIC Gums brand)
Unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 100 g
Bacon scraps 50 g
Heavy cream 250 g
Egg yolks, pasteurized 40 g
see page 478
Smoked bacon, cut into 80 g
5 mm / v.. in cubes
Parmigiano Reggiano, cut into 100 g
5 mm / v.. in cubes
Truffle oil 10 g
from page 4161
GRUYERE CUSTARD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whole milk 250g
Heavy cream 75 g
Sodium citrate 4.7 g
Gruyere cheese, grated 100 g
Sweet onions, thinl y sliced 50 g
Unsalted butter 20 g
Onion stock, cold 175g
see pagell
Iota carrageenan 3.35g
Kappa carrageenan 1.35 g
Salt to taste
SCALING
250%
75%
4.7%
(0.78%)'
100%
50%
20%
175%
3.35%
(0.5%)'
1.35%
(0.2%)'
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Blend, and bringto boil.
@) Cast onto tray measuring 60 cm by40 cm / 24 in by16 in to form layerl mm /
0.6%
0.25%
20%
10%
50%
8%
Y32 in thick .
Refrigerate for 2 h.
o Cut into noodles 2 mm /)1" in wide.
Arrange in even layer on si li cone mat.
o Vacuum seal.
o Cook sous vide in 70 ' c / 158 ' F bath for 2 h.
Strain, and reserve butter.
Reduce cream by half over medi um heat.
@ Reserve in squeeze bottle .
@ Strain.
@ Reserve in squeeze bottle.
16% @ Heat noodles in 200 ' C / 390 ' F oven unt il just warmed through, about 4 min.
@ Warm bacon cubes in reserved bacon- infused butter over medium heat,
about4 min.
@ Divide noodl es equally among e ight plates .
20% @ Garnish each serving with bacon and Parmesan cubes, reduced cream,
egg yolks, and truffle oil.
2%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
o Bring to simme r.
Ble nd into mil k mi xture, stirring unt il melted a nd smooth.
o Reserve.
Saute oni ons unti l tender, about 30 min.
o Cool.
o Hand-blend into reserved cheese mixture.
Pass through fine sieve .
Cool compl etely .
@ Disperse carrageenans into stock.
@ Blend wit h cooled cheese mi xture.
@ Heat to 95 ' C / 203 ' F for 3 min to fu ll y hydrate .
@ Season warmed custard base.
@ Cast evenly into mold to create layer 2.5 cm / 1 in thick.
@ Refrigerate until set, about 10 min.
@ Cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes, and refri gerate until use.
Yields 670 g
@ To serve, heat custard cubes in 70 ' C / 160 ' F ove n until just warmed through, about 8 min .
from page 5264 ' (% of total weight of all other ingredients)
GELS 275
..
? - .-
SHELLFISH CUSTARD HOMAGE TO JOEL ROBUCHON Yields 1.2 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Heavy cream 300g
Whole milk 140g
Mushroom jus 90g
see page 37
Salt 5g
Chervil, leaves 30g
Tarragon, leaves 6g
Shellfish stock 280g
see page 6
SCALING
100%
47%
30%
1.7%
10%
2%
93%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine in pot.
Simmerfor 5 min.
@) Remove from heat.
o Add to warm mi lk, and infuse for 20 min at room temperature.
Strain and cool.
Combine with cold milk mixture.
High-acyl gell an (Kelcogel LTlOO, 1.6g 0.53% o Dry blend, and disperse into shellfish stock mixture.
CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)*
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1.2g 0.4%
Heat to 90 ' c / 194 ' F, and hold at temperature for 3 min.
Remove from heat.
CP Kelco brand) (0.15%)*
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 0.57g 0.2%
@ Cast into desired molds to make custards of about 80 g each.
CP Kelco brand) (0.07%)*
Sodium hexametaphosphate O.4g 0.14%
(0.05%)*
Cauliflower fluid gel foam base 300g 100% @ To serve, transfer cauliflower foam base to 1 I siphon.
@ Charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
see page 326
@ Reheat custards, and warm siphon to 80 ' C / 176 ' F.
Sea urchin 100g 33% @ Garnish each custard with three tongues.
(24 tongues)
@ Shake warmed siphon vigorously, and top each custard with cauliflower foam.
Coffee butter, melted
seepage350
from page 4162
Joel Robuchon is one of the world's
most influenti al chefs. His original
version of this dish consisted of
40g
a spoonful of oscietra caviar topped
with layers of delicate shellfish
gelee, cauliflower cream, and
chlorophyl puree. It inspired many
interpretations, from Ferran Adria's
hot version of the original to
Thomas Keller's Cauliflower Panna
Cotta (see page 263). We created
this dish in homage to Robuchon
and to the creative lineage that has
followed it.
It can be hard to hydrate gell an
in a liquid that contains calcium.
Fortunately, the calcium in milk
and cream is naturally sequestered.
It poses no problem as long as
sufficient heat is used during
hydration. When using gell an with
other liquids that contain calcium,
a sequestrant may be necessary
(see page 4129).
13.3% @ Drizzl e over custards.
*(% of total weight offirstfour liquid ingredients)
BONE MARROW CUSTARD Yields650g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Veal marrowbone one foreshank
(optional) bone
Water 500g
Veal marrow 125g
Whole milk, cold 125g
160 Bloom gelatin 3.5g
Coffee beans 1.5 g
Salt 3g
Hi gh-acyl gellan 0.55 g
(Kelcogel LTlOO, CP Kelco
brand)
Low-acyl gellan 0.3 g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand)
White veal stock, warmed 250 g
slightly
see page 6
Garlic confit, pureed 15 g
see page176
from page 563
SCALING PROCEDURE
400%
100%
100%
2.8%
(0.9%)*
1.2%
2.4%
0.44%
(0.15%)*
0.24%
(0.1%)*
200%
12%
@ Cut into four equal pieces, and reserve for casting
custard. If not using bones, reserve other molds.
Soak marrow in waterfor 12 h to remove blood.
Drain.
o Disperse gelati n in milk.
Vacuum seal with coffee beans.
Cook sous vide in 75 ' C/ 167 ' F bath for 10 min.
o Strain coffee- infused milk, and reserve.
Combine.
Disperse gel mixture into stock.
@ Blend stock with veal marrow, coffee-infused milk,
and garl ic confit.
@ Bring mixture to boil, and simmer for 3 min.
@ Pour quickly into marrowbones or other molds.
@ Cool unti l set, about 5 min.
@ Reheat bone marrow custard in 75 ' C / 165 ' F combi
oven with 100% relative humidity for 8 min. If combi
oven is unavail able, reheat in steamer for 5 min.
*(% of total weight of whole milk and white veal stock)
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BOEUF EN GELEE IN SP IRED BY DANIEL BOULUD
INGREDIENT
Carrots, brunoise
Parsnips, brunoise
Shal lots, brunoise
Neutral oil
Oxtail meat, cooked sous vide
and shredded
see page 90
Tomato confit, finely minced
Grain mustard
Salt
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F,
CP Kelco brand)
Oxtail consomme
see page46
Horseradish foam
see page 327
Fresh wasabi, peeled
fro m page 4163
QUANTITY
50g
50g
50 g
15g
300 g
40g
to taste
to taste
2.5g
1. 25 g
1 kg
120g
20g
SCALING
5%
5%
5%
1.5%
30%
4%
0.25%
0.1%
100%
12%
2%
Yields 1.5 kg (eight portions)
PROCEDURE
CD Saute together unti l tender, about 5 min.
o Cool.
Fold into vegetable mi xt ure.
0) Season meat and vegetable mi xture.
@) Divide into 50 g servings, and spoon evenly into bottom of eight small bowls.
Blend.
0) Disperse gum mixture into cold consomme.
Heat to 95 ' C / 203 ' F, and hold for 3 min.
Pour hot gel into bowls of meat and vegetables unti l mixture is submerged 2.5 cm /
1 in below surface of gel.
Refrigerate bowls .
@ Toserve, reheat bowls in 70 ' C/ 158 ' F bath orsteam oven unt il just warmed
through, about 10 min.
@ Garnish evenly with horseradish foam and grated fresh wasabi as desired.
GEL S
277
~
HOT FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GELS
CD Prepare and puree the fruit or vegetable. The gels can also be made with
jui ce, but that approach yields a very different gel texture.
Disperse the gelling agents into the cold jui ce or puree, and hydrate fu ll y.
Find the acidity of the puree or juice. Use the table offruit and vegetable
acidities, or measure the pH directly by using a pH meter.
A few minutes at 90 C / 194 OF is usuall y sufficient to hydrate the gelling
agents. Use a high-shear mixer, such as a bl ender, immersion blende r,
or rotor-stator homogenizer. You may need to add calci um when usi ng
low-acyl gell an. While still hot, shear in calcium lactate or another
calcium salt after hydration, stirring well unt il dissolved. For more details
on calcium salts, see page 4129.
Select a texture. Possibil ities range from brittle to very elast ic and soft.
o Choose the gelling age nt. We give two options for each texture in the
table Best Bets for Hot Fruit Gels below. Some options use more than
one agent.
Mix the gelling agents. Set the weight of the puree or juice to 100%,
and measure each gel ling agent proportionally. The amount of sodium
hexa-metaphosphate, if any, varies according to the pH of the food.
Dissolve it in the juice before adding the gell ing agent or agents.
o Cast into a mold, and then cut to size when set. All ow 5-10 min at room
temperature, or2- 4 min in the refrigerator, forthe gel to setto moderate
firmness. The locust bean/ xanthan gum formula wil l set after being
frozen and thawed. A methocellulose/ gelatin gel will set when heated
Fruit and Vegetable Acidities
Low acid ity
(pH ? 4.6)
artichoke
asparagus
avocado
banana
beans
beets
bell pepper
broccoli
Brussels sprout
button mushroom
carrot
cauliflower
celery
cucumber
eggplant
fennel
fig
jicama
leek
lettuce
Iychee
melon
napa cabbage
papaya
parsnip
pear
from page 4164
(pH)
6 peas
6 persimmon
7 pumpkin
5 radish
6 red cabbage
6 red onion
5 russet potato
7 rutabaga
6 mushroom
7 spaghetti squash
6 spinach
7 spring onion
6 sweetonion
6 sweet potato
6 taro
6 tomato
6 turnip
7 watermelon
6 yellow squash
7 zucchini
6
5
6
6
6
5
(pH)
6
6
7
7
6
6
6
6
7
6
7
6
6
7
6
5
6
5
6
7
to 90 C / 194 OF.
Medium acid ity
(pH 3-4.6)
apple
apricot
blackberry
black currant
blueberry
elderberry
grape
g rapefruit
greengage
guava
kiwi
mango
mulberry
nectarine
orange
passion fruit
peach
pineapple
plum
pomegranate
quince
raspberry
re d currant
rhubarb
strawberry
tangerine
(pH)
4.0
3.7
3.5
3.3
3.7
3.8
3.8
3.7
3.4
4.1
3.6
4.0
3.5
3.0
3.9
3.5
3.7
3.5
3.6
4.0
3.7
3.3
3.1
3.4
3.8
4.1
High acid ity
(pH " 3)
cherry
cranberry
gooseberry
lemon
lime
(pH)
3
3
3
2
3
The acidity found in fruits and veget
the primary issue with making gels w
abies is
ith them.
,whi ch is
gsodiu m
t ifgell an
owever,
o gel (see
Calciu m content can also be an issue
why, in general, we recommend usin
hexametaphosphate as a sequestran
is in t he gel mixt ure. In some cases, h
you may need to add extra calciu m t
page 4129).
We took pains to measure and calcu late
tsand
is use-
gels.
the average pHs of these various fru i
vegetables because this information
ful for far more than making hot fruit
Whether you are seasoning broths a
creating brines and marinades, or m
preserves, pH plays a huge role in th
nd sauces,
aking
efi nal
t hat the
y, so you
ure it
qualities of these preparations. Note
pH can vary wit h ripeness and variet
may want to use a pH meter to meas
yourself.
For more on the role of pH in fr uit and vegetable
see page 3-274.
For more on how to measure pH, see page 2-316.
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Best Bets for Hot Fruit Gels
Texture Gelling agent
brittle high-acyl gell an
sodium hexametaphosphate
agar
~ semi brittle hi gh-acyl ge ll an
~
~
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low-acyl gell an
sodiu m hexametaphosphate
agar
locust bean gu m
high-acyl ge ll an
low-acyl gell an
xanthan gum
sodium hexametaphosphate
locust bean gum
xanthan gum
~ very elastic methyicellulose E4M

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160 Bloom gelatin
agar
locust bean gum
sorbitol
from page 4165
HOT ORANGE GEL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 75g
Fructose 75g
Orange zest, 50g
blanched three times
Citric acid 2g
Agar (Texturas brand) l.2g
locust bean gum 0.9g
(TIC Gums brand)
Orange juice, sieved 125g
Sorbitol 15 g
~
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low acidity Medium acidity High acidity
(scaling) ' (scaling)' (scali ng)'
0.30% 0.3% 0.3%
0.05% 0.1 % 0.2%
0.5% 0.5% 0.5%
0.20% 0.2% 0.2%
0.10% 0.1 % 0.1 %
0.05% 0.1 % 0.2%
For details on how to disperse and hydrate
0.4% 0.4% 0.4%
methylcellulose. see page 4170.
0.3% 0.3% 0.3%
0.20% 0.20% 0.20%
0.10% 0.10% 0.10%
0.15% 0.15% 0.15%
0.05% 0.10% 0.20%
0.8% 0.8% 0.8%
0.2% 0.2% 0.2%
1.5% 1.5% 1.5%
3.0 % 3.0% 3.0%
0.4% 0.4% 0.4%
0.3% 0.3% 0.3%
5.0% 5.0% 5.0%
' (set weight offruit or vegetable to 700%)
Yields300 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
60%
60%
40%
l. 6%
0.96%
0.72%
100%
12%
o Mix to dissolve, and warm to make syrup.
(3) Vacuum seal with syrup, cook sous vide in 88 c / 190 OF bath for 4 h.
Puree, pass through fin e sieve, measure 175 g of puree, and reserve.
o Dry blend powders.
Mi x 50 g (40%) of orange juice into puree.
@) Disperse powder blend into cold mixture.
o Boil until fu ll y hydrated, about 2 min.
Combine wit h remaining 75 g (60%) of juice, and blend into hot puree.
Cast immediately into mold, and all ow to set.
GEL 5 279
~
;
HOT BANANA GEL
INGREDIENT
Banana, unpeeled
Water
Fructose
locust bean gum (POR/ A2
Powder, TIC Gums brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
from page 4166
QUANTITY
100 g
175g
25g
2.2g
0. 55g
HOT GREEN APPLE GEL
INGREDIENT
Green apple, peeled
and thinly sli ced
Malic aci d
Green apple juice
{or water)
Fructose
Calcium gluconate
low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel F,
CP Kelco brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T)
High-acyl gell an (Kelcogel
lTlOO, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium
hexametaphosphate
from page 41 66
HOT QUINCE GEL
INGREDIENT
Fragrant quince, halved,
cored, and peeled, peels
reserved
Water
Sugar
Citric acid
Calcium gluconate
Sodium hexametaphosphate
High-acyl gell an (Kelcogel
lTlOO, CP Kelco brand)
low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F)
Malic acid
from page 4167
QUANTITY
100 g
4g
175g
25g
1. 25 g
0.55 g
0. 42g
0.275g
0.2g
QUANTITY
100 g
127g
63g
1.8 g
0. 82g
0.2g
0.3 g
0.6g
as needed
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Cook sous vide in 88 C / 190 OF bath for12 min.
@) Peel.
Sieve.
Yields300 g
175% @ Blend all ingredi e nts with banana fl esh, and bring to simmer to hydrate locust bean gum.
25% (0 Cast into mold, and cool.
2.2% @) Freeze compl ete ly, and store until needed.
(2) Thaw gel to serve.
0.55%
SCALING
100%
4%
175%
25%
1.25%
0.55%
0.42%
0.275%
0.2%
SCALING
PROCEDURE
CD Cook sous vide in 90 C/ 194 OF bath for 30 min.
o Puree until smooth, and reserve.
Dissolve acid into fres h jui ce to preserve jui ce color.
@ Dry blend powders.
(0 Dispe rse into jui ce mixture.
@) Blend with reserved puree.
(2) Heat to at least 85 C / 185 OF to hydrate.
Cast into mold, and refrigerate unti l set, a bout 5 min.
PROCEDURE
Yields300 g
Yields 300 g
100% CD Press ure-cook (including reserved pee ls) at gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi for 45 min.
@) Puree.
127%
63%
1. 8%
0.82%
0.2%
0.3%
0.6%
Cool compl etely.
@ Dry ble nd powders.
(0 Dispe rse into cold puree.
@ Mix into puree.
(2) Add aci d as needed to pH 4.5 or to taste.
Heatto at least 85 C / 185 of.
Cast into mold, and allow to set.
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QUINOA AND IDIAZABAL WITH BONITO STOCK VEIL
ADAPTED FROM ANDON I LUIS ADUR IZ Yields 800 g (eight portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White vegetable stock 700 g
see page 6
Idiazabal cheese, finely grated 300 g
Quinoa
Salt
White vegetable stock
see page 6
Bonito fl akes
Bonito stock, from above
160 Bloom gelatin
Agar (Texturas brand)
Rosemary blossoms
Creamed honey
from page 4168
200g
to taste
375 g
60 g
300g
3g
1.2 g
32 blossoms
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
233%
100%
67%
125%
20%
100%
1%
0.4%
@ Blend together.
(3) Heatto 70 C/ 158 of.
Rest forl0 min.
@ Strain; reserve 700 g of cheese- infused stock.
Combine with reserved stock.
@ Simmer until qu inoa is just cooked through, about30 min.
o Cool completely.
Season quinoa, and reserve 470 g, refrigerated.
Heat to 70 C/ 158 OF.
@ Stir into vegetable stock.
@ Remove from heat, and cover pot tight ly wit h plastic wrap .
@ Rest for 30 min.
@ Strain.
@ Cool compl etely, and reserve 300 g of bonito stock .
@ Disperse into reserved bonito stock whi le cold.
@ Bring stock to boil , and simmerfor 2 min.
@ Cast onto tray lined with plastic wrap to form layer 1 mm / y" in thi ck.
@ Refrigerate until fu ll y set, about 4 h .
@ Cut circles 7.5 cm 13 in. in diameter from boni to gel.
@) Spoon quinoa into mounds on center of e ight plates sli ghtly small er in diameter than
gel circl es.
@ Cover each quinoa mound wit h gel circl e.
@ Heat pl ates in 80 C 1 175 OF oven for about 8 min.
@ Garnish attable.
DUNGENESS CRAB AND APPLE ROULADE I NSP IR ED BY SCOTT CARSBERG Yields500 g
INGREDI ENT
Apple juice
Malicacid
Fructose
Agar(Text uras brand}
Hi gh-acyl gell an (Kelcogel
LTlOO, CP KeJco brand)
Dungeness crab meat
Basic mayonnaise
see page 303 (or store- bought)
Scallions, fine juli enne
Sweet almond oil
Lemon balm, fi ne juli enne
Vani ll a seeds and pulp
Lime juice
Salt
Seasonal herbs
from page 41 68
QUANTITY
200g
to taste
to taste
0.8g
0.6g
300g
50g
30g
24g
3g
1. 5g
(from half
a bean)
to taste
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% @ Season jui ce.
0.4%
0.3%
150%
25%
15%
12%
1.5%
0.75%
(3) Disperse into juice.
Bringjuice to boil, and simmer for 2 min.
@ Cast onto nonstick baking sheet to form layerl mm IY" in thick.
Refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
@ Cut into circles 7 cm 13 in. in diameter .
o Fold together to make crab salad.
Season crab salad.
Place apple gel circle flat across large flat plate or cutting board.
@) Spoon salad thin ly and evenl y across surface of each circle.
@ Roll each circl e to form ti ght rou lade .
@) Garnish with seasonal herbs.
GE LS 281
~
,
CELLULOSE GUM GELS
CD Select a texture. Several options are listed in the table Best Bets for
Methylcellul ose Gels below.
(3) Make a methylcellulose stock solution. Measure the methyl cell ul ose,
and whisk it into hot water equal to about one-third of the weight of the
fluid you want to gel. Avoid using cold water because it causes the
powder to hydrate too qui ckly and clump. Quantities in the table are
given as a percentage of the water use d. For exampl e, mi x in1.2 g ofSGA
150 for every 100 g of water to produce a stock solution for firm, custard-
li ke gels.
Best Bets for Methylcellulose Gels
Quantity Gels
Texture Firmness Gelling agent (scaling) '
(OC) (OF)
Hydrate fu ll y in the refrigerator fo r 6-12 h. The mi xture wi ll become
a cl ear li quid.
@ Add to the product to be set. The tabl e suggests a number of uses.
In gene ral, add one part methylce llulose stock solution to every two
parts fl avored fluid . For example, to make 300 g of apple je ll y, add 100 g
of methylce ll ulose stock to 200 g of concent rated apple juice.
Cast t he product into a container, and heat it to set. Heat it at least
to the ge lling temperature given in the table, and hold it above the
melting temperature until ready to serve.
Melts
(OC) (OF)
Example use See page
very elastic tender K100M 1.5% 90 194 50 122 te nder pudding, instant creme brfJJee
elastic tender A15C 1.5% 55 131 25 77 ge l sheets, instant noodles next
elastic firm E4M 1.5% 64 147 50 122 gel pancakes
F450 2.5% 68 154 35 95 dumpli ngs, gnocchi
semi brittle firm SGA 150 l. 2% 44 111 15 59 firm custard, scrambl ed corn
brittle firm SGA7C l.0% 44 111 15 59 hot slicea ble terrine
from page 4171 ' (setweightafliquidta 700%)
Properties and Applications of Cellulose Gums
Gel Gelling
firmness Category agent
soft HPMC K99
K4M
K100
semifirm HPMC E15
E50
E4M
HPMC F50
F450
F4M
firm MC A15
A4M
A40M
very firm Supe r MC SGA 150
SGAA7C
SGAA50M
from page 4170
Viscosity
(mPa s)
80-120
2,700- 5,040
75,000- 140,000
12- 18
40- 60
2, 700- 5,040
40-60
360- 540
2,700- 5,040
12- 18
2,700- 5,600
7,500-14, 000
150- 450
700-980
50,000- 120,000
Quantity
(scaling)'
0.4%-4%
1.0%-3%
0.2%-2.5%
0. 1%-2%
l.0%-3.5%
Hydrate
<30 <86 70- 90
<25 <77 58-64
<25 <77 62- 68
<13 <55 50-55
<10 <50 38-44
Gels Melts
158- 194 <50 <122 formation offi lms, fried
products, tende r gels
136- 147 <50 <122 custards, noodles
144-154 <35 <95 foams, whipped toppings,
puddings
122-131 <25 <77 baked goods, set foams,
formation of fi lms
100- 111 <15 <59 liquid coatings,
firm-set gels
' (set weight afliquid ta 700%)
The gelling agents li sted in the tables a bove refe r to Dow brand products.
For the names of comparable products made by other manufacturers, see
the Hydrocolloid Product Guide on page II at the end of volume 5.
Vrl ll l ME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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INSTANT TOFU NOODLES ADAPTED FROM WYL I E DUFRESNE Yields 1.5 kg
INGREDIENT
Water
Methocel A 15C (Dow brand)
Tofu, firm
Salt
Toasted sesame oil
Hon dashi
see page 15
Akamiso
Shiro miso
Salt
Golden enoki mushrooms,
tops o nl y
QUANTITY
150g
7.5g
340g
to taste
to taste
900g
25g
20g
to taste
50g
Fresh sea lettuce, thick juli enne 17 g
Scallions, green parts only, 7 g
thinly sliced
from page 41 72
SCALING
44%
2.2%
(7.5%)'
100%
265%
7.4%
6%
15%
5%
2%
PROCEDURE
CD Disperse.
(3) Bringto boil.
Blend into boiling water to form puree.
o Season tofu puree.
Cool to 50 C/ 122 of.
Refrigerate until hydrated, at least 6 h.
CD Transfer to squeeze bottle with tip 5 mm 1
3
/1. in. in diameter.
Set as ide.
Blend dashi with miso.
@ Centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h to make consomme.
@ Season miso consomme.
@ Bringto boil, an d lad le into bowls.
@ Garnish soup.
@ Extrude tofu puree into hot soup to form instant noodl es.
'(% of total weight of tofu and water)
POTATO BEIGNETS WITH CAVIAR Yields 700 g (about 25 beignets)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Baked potato stock 100 g
see page19
Methocel E4M 5.5 g
(Dow brand}
Baked potato stock 125 g
see page 19
Cultured buttermilk 125 g
(stabilizer-free)
Eggs 50g
Creme frakhe 90g
Methocel mixture, from above 45 g
All-purpose fl our 120 g
Instant potato flakes 30g
(store-bought)
Salt 5g
Baking powder 5g
Bakingsoda 2.5g
Clarified butter 20g
Neutral oil asneeded
Caviar (best quality available) as desired
Creme frakhe as desired
from page 4174
SCALING
80%
4.4%
(O.77%)*
100%
100%
40%
72%
36%
96%
24%
4%
4%
2%
16%
PROCEDURE
CD Bringwaterto boil.
(3) Shear Methocel into boiling stock.
Simmer for 3 min.
o Pl ace pot in ice-water bath, and stir until cold and thickened.
Vacuum seal, and refrige rate Methocel mi xt ure for at least 8 h to hyd rate.
Ble nd together unt il smooth.
CD Dry-blend, and sift together.
Pour wet mi xtu re in, and st ir until completely incorporated. Do not overwork the batter.
Drizzl e into batter wh il e stirri ng; mi x to distribute evenly.
@ Roll 30 ml / 2 T portions gent ly in gloved hands until round and smooth. Do not
completely deflate mixture.
@ Drop balls into 190 C 1 375 OF o il until golden brown and sl ightl y puffed, about 3 min .
@ Drain on paper towels.
@ Se rve with warm beignets.
*(% of total weight afall other batter ingredients)
GEL S 283
!iil
jIP'
SWEET PEA CLUSTERS INSPI RED BY FERRAN ADRIA AND ANDON I LUIS ADURIZ Yields 375 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Pea juice (or vegetable stock) 200 g
see page 41 or page 6
Methocel E4M (Dow brand) 4 g
Sweet peas, shelled 130 g
E4M solution, from above 20g
Xanthangum 0.03g
Water 1 kg
Salt 20g
Ham broth 200 g
see page 16
Walnut oil 20 g
Mint leaves 8g
from page 4173
SCALING
100%
2%
65%
10%
0.015%
500%
10%
100%
10%
4%
PROCEDURE
CD Bringjuice to boil.
Disperse methylcellulose into boiling jui ce.
Simmer for 3 min.
@) Refri gerate until hydrated, at least 6 h.
Measure 20 g of E4M solution to coat peas.
Bl end xanthan gum into methocel solution.
o Mi x peas with reserved solution; stirto coat peas evenly.
Form 16 clusters of9 g each.
Arrange clusters, well separated, on baking sheet line d with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
@ Toserve, transfer clusters carefull y to salted 90 C / 194 OF bath.
@ Remove from bat h when gel on clusters has full y set, about 1 min.
@ Bring broth to simmer, and check seasoni ng.
@ Di vide broth equall y among fou r bowl s.
@ Pl ace two pea clusters in each bowl.
@ Season broth.
MACKEREL WITH SPICY TOMATO SKIN Yields800g(fourportions)
INSPIRED BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL
INGREDIENT
Water
Tomato confit
see page 179
Red bell pepper, roasted and
peeled
Cayenne pepper
Salt
160 Bloom gelatin
Methocel F50 (Dow brand)
Mackerel fillets, cleaned,
pin bones and ski n removed
Olive oil
Bouillabaisse broth
see page 17
Blood orange segments
Fennel, thinly shaved
Radish, thinly shaved
Thai basil leaves
Olive oil
Salt
from page 4175
QUANTITY
225g
150g
75g
2g
to taste
4.5g
5.7 g
320g
(four fill ets)
40g
300g
40g
40g
20g
5g
to t aste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Puree until smooth.
67% Pass through fine sieve.
33%
0.9%
2%
(7%)*
2.5%
(7.27%)*
142%
18%
133%
18%
18%
9%
2%
Season puree.
@) Disperse into puree.
Heat to 90 C/ 194 OF.
Bl end into hot puree until fu ll y dispersed, and continue bl endingfor1 min.
o Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until fu ll y hydrated, at least 6 h.
Spread puree on tray line d with plastic wrap to fo rm layer1 mm / y" in thick.
Dehydrate in oven at 110 C/ 230 OF for15 min.
@ Cool res ulting tomato skin to roo m temperature.
@ Cut tomato skin to match dimensions of each fi ll et.
@ Press cut tomato skins onto fi ll ets.
@ Vacuum seal fillets individuall y.
@ Refri gerate until set, at least 30 min.
@ Remove fillets and ski ns from bags, and vacuum seal again individually with 10 g
of olive oi l in each bag.
@ Cook fi ll ets sous vide in 46 C / 115 OF bath to core temperature of45 C / 113 of,
about 15 min.
@ Remove fillets from bags.
@ Warm, and adjust seasoning.
@ Toss together to make salad.
@ Seas on salad.
@ Pl ace each fillet covered in tomato skin in individual serving dish.
@) Garnish with salad.
@ Pour bouillabaisse broth around fill ets at tabl e.
*(% oftotol weight offirst three ingredients)
v nlll MF A . KITCHEN MA NUAL
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FLUID GELS
o Sel ect the temperature and desired viscosity. The table Best Bets for Fluid
Gels below lists several options for both hot and cold gels.
(3) For egg fluid gels, cook eggs. The table suggests cooking times and
temperatures.
For hydrocoll oid fluid gels, scale and mix the gelling agents. The table
offers two or more options for each combination of service temperature
and viscosity. Quantities in the table are scaled relat ive to the weight of
the principal liquid. For example, to make a thick, hot onion gel, use 0.8 g
of low-acyl gellan for every 100 g of onion puree.
@) Disperse the gelling agents into the liquid. A sequestrant may be
necessary if using gellan (see page 4129).
Hydrate fully. Hydration times and temperatures are indicated in the
Best Bets for Fluid Gels
table. If you use a sequestra nt, or if the food has low calcium content,
then you may need to add calci um after hydrat ion (see page 4129).
Cast the gel, and let it set.
o Puree the gel to the preferred consistency. Additional liquid may be
added as needed to thi n the gel.
Si eve the fluid gel to produce a gel having a finer consistency (optional).
VARIATION: QUICK-SETTING A FLUID GEL
o Fol low steps 1-5 above.
Set the gel in a beaker immersed in ice water.
o Puree the gel with a hand blender as the gel sets.
Hydrate or cook
See
Temperature Viscosity Gelling agents (scaling)** (min) (OC) (OF)
Note Example use page
cold thin 160 Bloom gelati n 0.8% 2-5 60 140 stir or sieve before serving; gel thickened consomme,
will continue to set broth
egg yolk 250% 35 65 149 select quantity to obtain savory creme anglai se, 287
84% 35 69 156
amount of egg flavor desired lemon egg yolk sauce
25% 35 80 176
iota carrageenan 0.1% 3 75 167 higher viscosity with dairy li ght cream sauce
medium- 160 Bloom gelati n 1.5% 2-5 60 140 stir or sieve before serving; gel passion fruit jelly, coating 287
thick will continue to hea l gel for terrines
egg yolk 150% 35 80 176 mustard sauce for cold cuts,
smooth salad dressing
whole egg 100% 35 78 172
kappa carrageenan 0.4% 3 95 203 higher viscosity with dairy light pudding
thick 160 Bloom gelatin 2.5% 2- 5 60 140 stir or sieve before serving; gel vegetable orfruit juice
will continue to set puree, dense pudding
whole egg 250% 35 78 172 low-fat mayonnaise, aioli
iota carragee nan 0.35% 3 75 167 higher viscosity if used traditional pudding
kappa carrageenan 0.20%
with dairy
hot thin agar 0.25% 3 95 203 sl ightly cloudy broth
low-acyl gellan* 0.1% 3 95 203 acidic liquids may require consomme
a sequestrant to hydrate
medium- egg yolk 80% 35 69 156 do not reheat above cooki ng rich egg-yolk sauce
thick temperature
agar 0.40% 3 95 203 gravy, cream-styl e sauce
xant han gum 0.15%
low-acyl gellan* 0.5% 3 95 203 acidic liquids may require gravy, cream-style sauce
a sequestrantto hydrate
thick agar 0.9% 3 95 203 fluid gel puree
xanthan gu m 0.2%
egg yolk 150% 35 69 156 egg-onl y mayonnaise
low-acyl gell an' 0.8% 3 95 203 acidic liquids may require fizzy grape fluid gel 289
a sequest rant to hydrate
from page 4177
'(add 0.15% calcium lactate for low calcium solutions; allow 3 h to fully set); "(set weight of liquid to 100%)
GELS 285
~
PASSION FRUIT BROWN BUTTER FLUID GEL Yields450 g
INGREDIENT
Passion fruit jui ce
Agar
Horseradish, grated
Brown butter, melted
Malic acid
Salt
from page 5182
QUANTITY
250g
1.35 g
7.5g
50 g
4.5g
to taste
SCALING
100%
0.54%
(0.45%)*
3%
20%
1.8%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine: and bringto boil.
(3) Pour liquid into beaker set in ice-water bath.
o Blend with immersion blender as gel sets, until cooled
and fluid.
@) Blend into fluid gel.
Strain.
Blend into fluid gel.
o Adjust to taste.
Whiskin.
Season, and refrigerate until use.
*(% of total weight of all other ingredients)
The earthy aroma of beet comes
from a compound called geosmin.
We think that it complements the
bright acidity and pungency of
pass ion fruit.
HOT AND COLD TEA ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 1. 73 kg
INGREDIENT
Distilled water
Earl Grey tea leaves
For cold tea:
Earl Grey tea, from above
Unrefined caster sugar
Low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel F,
CP Kelco brand)
Sodium citrate
Malicacid
Calcium chloride
For hottea:
Earl Grey tea, from above
Unrefined caster sugar
Low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel F,
CP Kelco brand)
Sodium citrate
Malicacid
Calcium chloride
from page 4182
QUANTITY
1.8 kg
40g
860g
80g
0.6g
0.6g
1 g
0.25g
860g
80g
0.6g
0.6g
3.5 g
0.25g
SCALING PROCEDURE
209% CD Stir together.
4.6% (3) Vacuum seal, and infuse at room temperature for1 h.
o Strain tea through fine sieve, and measure 1. 73 kg.
100%
9.3%
0.07%
0.07%
0.12%
0.03%
100%
9.3%
0.07%
0.07%
0.4%
0.03%
@) Divide reserved tea into two 860 g and two 5 g portions for hot and cold tea components.
Dry blend, and whisk into 860 g of reserved tea.
Bring mi xt ure to simmer.
o Blend until completely dissolved, and reserve gellan mixture.
Combine with 5 g of reserved tea.
Whisk into gell an mixture to hydrate and thicken.
@ Cool over ice-water bath, and then refrigerate for 24 h.
@ Pass tea mixture through fin e sieve.
@ Refrigerate until needed.
@ Follow steps 5-11 above.
@ Warm fluid gel in 72 C / 162 OF bath.
@ Place tight-fitting vertical dividers down centers offour small glasses, ali gning dividers
perpendicular to hand les.
@) Remove cold tea gel from refrigerator.
@ Pour hot tea and cold tea gels indi vidually into separate halves of each glass, filling both
sections to same height.
@ Remove divider, and serve immediately without jostling or tipping. Align dividing lines
with lips of drinke rs so that they experience hot and cold teas simultaneously.
IInlllMF ~ . KITrHFN MANUAL
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PASSION FRUIT JELLY A DAP TE D FROM H ESTON BLUMEN T HA L Yields580 g
INGREDIENT
Passion fruit puree
(Boiron brand)
Fructose
160 Bloom gelatin
Fresh oyst er jui ce
from page 4180
QUANTITY
150 g
45g
1O.5g
375 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
40%
12%
2.8%
(2%)'
100%
o Di sperse gelatin in cold water.
o Whi sk together puree and fruct ose.
o Warm sweetened puree until fructose is completely dissolved.
@) Add hydrated gelatin to warm puree, and stir together until dissolved.
Whisk into warm li quid mi xture.
@) Refrigerate forl h to set.
(2) Press set gel through sieve to make it fluid.
Spoon onto fresh oysters in cleaned shell s, and serve immediately.
' (% of total weight of passion frUit puree and oyster j uice)
POPCORN PUDDING A DAPTE D FROM WY LI E D UFRESNE Yields450 g
INGREDIENT
Organic mi crowavable
popcorn
Whole milk
Freeze-dri ed corn
see page 188 (orstore-boughtl
Corn milk (from above)
Water
Iot a carrageenan (Genuvisco j,
CP Kelco brand)
Kappa carrageenan (Genugel
CHP2, CP Kelco brand)
Salt
from page 41 81
QUANTITY
75g
(one bag)
2.5 kg
200 g
400g
45g
2.7 g
1.8 g
to taste
LEMON EGG-YOLK FLUID GEL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Strip st eak one steak
Eggyolks 120g
White beef stock 130 g
see page 6
Lemonjui ce 12g
Salt to taste
from page 4180
SCALING
19%
625%
50%
100%
11 %
0.68%
(O.6%)'
0.45%
(O.4%) ,
PROCEDURE
o Microwave popcorn.
o Blend with popped popcorn.
o Pass corn mil k through fi ne sieve twice; measure 400 g of corn milk.
@) Combine corn mi lk and water.
Di sperse gums into liqui d.
@) Bri ng mixture to boil, and remove from heat.
(2) Cool unti l set.
Blend to fine puree.
Pass pudding through fi ne sieve.
@ Season.
'(% of total weight of corn milk and water)
SCALING
100%
(84%)'
108%
10%
Yields 200 g of fluid gel
PROCEDURE
o Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 55 C / 131F bath to core temperature of 54 C /
129 of, about40 min.
o Blend egg yolks, and vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 69 C / 156 OF bath for 35 mi n. Yolks will solidify.
@) Remove from bag .
Blend cold stock and lemon j uice with yolk mixture unti l completely fl uid.
@) Pass through fi ne sieve.
(2) Season, and reheat to 60 c / 140 OF. Keep temperature below 69 C / 156 of, otherwise
sauce will thicken.
'(% oftolal weight of stock andjuice)
GElS 2 87
g
PARMESAN "POLENTA" I NP I RED BY DAVE ARNOLD AND N ILS NOREN
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White chi cken stock 100 g
see page 11
Parmesan water 100 g
SCALING
100%
100%
PROCEDURE
G) Shear powders into cold stock with immersion bl ender.
(3) Bring mi xture to boil.
Place mixture in pan, and pl ace over ice-cold water bath to set.
Yields400g
see page 20
Corn juice
see page 2336
100g 100%
@) Pulse set gel with hand bl ender-or press through potato ricer-to create an irregul ar,
coarse-grained mixture.
Low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel F, 3g
CP Kelco brand)
Unsalted butter, cubed sOg
Parmesan, finely grated sOg
Salt to taste
from page 4181
3%
(1%)*
50%
50%
Refrigerat e until use.
@ To serve, reheat polenta, and whisk in butter until melted.
(2) Whisk in Parmesan.
Season.
*(% of total weight of chicken stock and corn juice)
ONION FLUID GEL ADAPTED FROM HESTO N BLUMENTHAL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Onions, thinly sli ced 2s0g
Unsalted butter 30g
Thyme, sprig 19
Low-fat milk 200g
White chicken stock 150 g
see page 6 and page 11
Heavy cream 95g
Salt to taste
Infused onion milk, 400g
from above
Low-acyl gell an (Kelcogel F, 2.7 g
CP Kelco brand)
from page 4183
CON FIT EGG YOLK PUREE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Egg yolks, bl ended 100 g
Champagne vinegar 8g
Glucose syrup DE 40 4g
Salt to taste
from page 5148
'62.5% G) Combine in pot.
7.5% (3) Saute onions until soft and translucent.
0.25%
50%
37.5%
23.8%
100%
0.68%
SCALING
100%
8%
4%
Add to cooked onions, and simmer mi xture for 5 min.
@) Remove from heat, and discard thyme.
Blend mixture full y.
@ Press through fine sieve, and reserve 400 g of infused milk.
(2) Season infused milk, and let cool.
Disperse into cold infused mi lk.
Bring mi lk to 93 C/ 199 of, and hold for 3 min to full y hydrate gell an.
@ Transfer to container, and cool over ice-water bath.
@ Blend by hand until cold and compl etely fluid.
@ Pass through fine sieve, and refri gerate.
PROCEDURE
G) Vacuum seal.
(3) Cook sous vide in 69 C/ l s6 OF bath for 45 min.
Puree wi th egg yolks.
@) Season puree, and refrigerate until use.
Yields400g
Yields 110 g
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UMAMI SEASONING FLUID GEL I NSPIRED BY GRANT ACHATZ Yields 625g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Brown beef stock or water 300g
see page 10
Tomato ketchup (Heinz brand) 80 g
Clear honey 60g
Fish sauce 30g
Sherry vinegar 20g
Agar(Texturas brand) 6g
Dark soy sauce 150 g
from page 4183
SCALING
100%
26.7%
20%
10%
6.7%
2%
50%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend li quids, and disperse agar into cold mixture.
o Bring mixture to 95 O( / 203 of, and hold for 3 min to hydrate fully.
Remove from heat, and cast into mold.
@ Refrigerate unti l set, about 5 min.
Break gel into small pieces for easier bl ending.
Puree soy sauce with set gel until very smooth, and pass through fine sieve.
<2) Serve as seasoning for gri ll ed mushrooms with shaved jalapeno peppers and avocado.
FIZZY GRAPE flUID GEL ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields800g
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY
White grape juice 720g
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 6.4 g
CP Kelco brand)
Muscatwine (dry) 80g
Champagne 1S g
from page 4183
SCALING
100%
0.89%
(08%)'
11%
2%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend in pot.
o Heat to 95 ' ( / 203 ' F to fully hydrate, and hold for 3 min.
Re move from heat, and st rai n through fin e sieve.
@ Cool over ice-water bat h, blending continuously, until ge l mixture is chill ed and
completely fluid .
Add to fluid gel, and ble nd.
Pass through fine sieve, and cool.
<2) Fold gently into fluid gel, and pour fluid gel into 1 1 whipping siphon.
Vent head space with one cartridge of carbon dioxide (see page 2-468). Charge with two
cartridges of carbon dioxide, and shake siphon vigorous ly.
Refrigerate for at least 2 h to carbonate.
*(% of total weight afwhite grape juice, muscat wine, and Champagne)
GEL S 289
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SPHERIFICATION
CD Select a spherifi cation method from the table Best Bets for Spherification
below. To gel a liq uid that naturall y contains calcium, we recommend
usi ng reverse spherifi cation, described in the variation below.
Scale and mix the gell ing agents. Weigh the ingredients relative to
the amount of li quid you will be gelling. For example, when making
cranberry gel sphe res, add 2 g of iota carrageenan for every 100 g of
cranberry juice.
Disperse the gelling solution. Add sequestrants as needed (see
page 41 29).
o Hydrate fully. See the table of hydroco ll oid properties on page 442 for
hydration times and temperatures.
@) Vacuum seal (optional), and chill for 2 h. Vacuum sealing removes air
from the solution and helps prevent bubbles from a ltering the shape and
texture of the spheres as they form.
Best Bets for Spherification
Forthe Forthe
Method sphere base (scaling) - setting bath
Prepare the setting bath. Stir the setting agent into clean water, and allow
1 h for it to dissolve fu lly. Optionall y, add sugar syrup (up to 22% sugar
concentratio n) or corn syrup to the bath so that its density matches that
of the li quid to be gell ed. This prevents the droplets from falling to the
bottom of the setting bath.
(1) Introduce drops of gell ing solution into the bath. A common tech-
niq ue when making large spheres is to sli de tablespoonfuls of gelling
fluid gently into t he bath water. A peristaltic pump (see page 4139) can
be set up to drip the droplets continuously. If you are making small
spheres, use a syringe to dispense the solution. All ow the skin to form for
1-3 min; beads will grow increasingly firm as they soak.
Rinse the spheres with clearwater. Rinsing slows the gelling process and
washes away any linge ring flavors from the setting solution. Rinse the
spheres at least twice. Remove wit h a perforated spoon. Option-
all y, heat to 85 C / 185 OF fo r1 0 min to stop furt her solidification. Store
the spheres in water or o il until needed.
(scal ing)- Note See page
alginate (direct) sodium a lginate 1% calcium chloride 0.5% xanthan gum th ickens liquid and yields next
xanthan gum (optional) 0.2%- 0.5%
more eve n orbs
sod ium alginate 1% calciu m gluconate 2.5% see note above
xanthan gum (optional) 0.2%-0.5%
alginate (reverse) calcium lactate 3% sodium alginate 0.5% see note above next
xant han gum (opti ona l) 0.2%- 0.5% sodiu m citrate 1. 2% use sodiu m citrate when liqui d is acidic or
(optional) high in calci um
carrageenan iota carrageenan 2% potassium 5% hydrate carrageenan cold for at
(direct)
phosphate least 5 h; can a lso be made reverse
gellan (direct) low-acyl ge ll an 0.2% calcium gluconate 6% best made with low acid, mode rate
sodium 0.1%
lact ic acid
hexametaphosphate
LM pectin calcium lactate 5% LM pect in
(reverse)
from page 4187 -(set weight of liquid to 100%)
VARIATION: SUSPENDING A SOLID
IN A GELLED SPHERE
CD Follow steps 1- 6 above. If you are using reverse spherification, see the
variation at right.
(1) Add a solid to the center of the liquid or puree. The sol id must be full y
encased in the solution; if any part protrudes, an intact membrane will
not form around the sphere. Contin ue with step 7 above for direct
spherificat ion, or see at right for reverse spherification.
0.1 % calcium liquids; make frozen hemispheres
and set in 80 c / 176 OF ca lcium bath; can
a lso be made reverse
2% can also be made direct 293
VARIATION: REVERSE SPHERIFICATION
CD In reverse spherifi cation, the edible li quid is mixed with calcium lactate
or another salt, and the gelli ng agent (such as alginate) is dispersed into
the bath.
When the edible li quid e nters the bath, a skin of gel forms around it,
encapsul at ing the li quid. Unl ike direct spherification, the edible liquid
itself does not set, although the skin does grow increasingly firm the
longer the bead remains in the bath. Adding xanthan gum to the li quid
thickens it and yields smoother spheres. Because the bath contai ns no
salts, it is not necessary to rinse the beads.

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CARBONATED MOJITO SPHERES ADAPTED FROM JOSE ANDRES Yields 480 g (about 40 spheres)
INGREDIENT
Water, disti ll ed
Lime juice
Sugar
Mint leaves, julienne
Lime zest, grated
Lime juice mixture,
from above
White rum
Calcium lactate
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Ascorbic acid
Sodium alginate
(Algin, Texturas brand)
Water
Lime zest, finely grated
from page 4188
QUANTITY
450g
120g
120g
80g
12g
350g
130 g
6.7 g
l.7g
O.3g
5g
1 kg
to taste
SCALING
86%
34.5%
34.5%
23%
3.4%
100%
37%
1.9%
0.5%
0.08%
1.43%
286%
PROCEDURE
@ Blend unti l completely dissolved.
(3) Bl end into jui ce mi xture.
Steep, refrigerated, for1 h.
o Strain, and reserve 350 g of juice solution to make spheres. Reserve remainder to
store spheres.
Blend with reserved juice solution until incorporated.
@ Blend water and sodium alginate unti l completely dissolved.
(2) Refrigerate bath for 1 h.
Fill two whipping si phons with 100 geach of reserved juice mi xture.
Fill tablespoon with mixture, tip gently into alginate bath, and release contents.
@ Set for 7 min; skin wi ll form.
@ Remove from bath with perforated spoon, and rinse sphere twice in fresh water.
@ Place sphere gently into whipping siphon containing juice mi xture.
@ Repeat procedure with remaining mi xture; fill each siphon only halffull with spheres.
@ Vent head space with one cartridge of carbon dioxide, and then charge each siphon with
two cartridges of carbon dioxide at least 5 h before serving. Refrigerate siphons to
carbonate spheres.
@ Remove spheres from whipping siphons with perforated spoon, and place in cocktail s.
@ Garnish.
MELON CAVIAR ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR I A Yields250g
INGREDIENT
Sodi um algi nate (Algin,
Texturas brand)
Melonjuice
see page 2336
Water
Calci um chl oride
from page 4189
QUANTITY
2g
250g
500g
2.5g
SCALING
0.8%
100%
200%
1%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine sodium alginate with 50 g of melon juice.
(3) Blend until dissolved.
Mix in remaining melon juice.
o Strain.
Vacuum seal; remove excess air.
@ Blend calcium chl oride in water until di ssolved.
(2) Set up three baths: one fi ll ed with calcium chloride solut ion to set spheres, two filled with
cold water to rinse spheres.
Fill syringes or droplet maker with melon juice mixture.
Expel droplets one at a time into calcium chl oride bath.
@ Remove each droplet from bath after 1 min.
@ Strain melon caviar.
@ Rinse caviar twice in cold water baths.
GELS
291


"POACHED" EGG
INGREDIENT
For the setting bath:
Water
Sodium algi nate
(TICA-algin 400 Powder,
TIC Gums brand)
Forthe egg-yolk base:
Calcium lactate
Sugar
Salt
Egg yolks, paste urized
see page 232
Rendered bacon fat
QUANTITY
2 kg
10 9
4g
3g
2g
150 g
50g
Forthe "cooked" egg-white base:
Gruyere water 600g
see page 20
Heavy cream 100 g
Iota carrageenan 4.2g
(Texturas brand)
Locust bean gum 0.44g
(POR/ A2 Powder,
TIC Gums brand)
from page 4195
Yields five "eggs"
SCALING PROCEDURE
333% CD Whisk together.
1.7% 0 Vacuum seal to re move excess air, and refrigerate for 2 h.
0.7%
0.5%
0.3%
25%
8.5%
100%
16.5%
0.7%
0.07%
Sift toget he r.
@ 81end into calcium lactate mixture, taking care to incorporate as little air as possible.
Di spense with sauce gun into 2 em / o in he misphere molds. freeze.
Heatsodium alginate solu tion until flu id is 60- 65 C / 140-149 OF.
o Remove from heat, and carefull y drop in froze n hemispheres.
Leave for 2 min, turn spheres over, and leave for1 min longer.
Fill three bowls with water: heattwo to 75-80 C/ 167-176 of; fil l the third with cold water.
@ Transfersphereswith slotted spoon to first bowl of warm water to rinse for 1 min.
@ Rinse spheres again in second bowl of warm water, and reserve in cold water.
@ Mix, and bring to boil.
@ Pour into sauce gun, and rest at room tempe rature until about 60 c / 140 of.
e Dispense "egg" wh ite into one half of plastic eggs he ll.
@ Pl ace yo lk sphere in center of white, and cap with top half of plastic shell.
@ Dispense re maining white into sealed she ll through drill ed hol e until overflowing.
@ Chill over ice.
TOMATO SPHERES WITH BASIL OIL Yields 300 g (about 12 spheres)
INGREDIENT
Tomato water
see page40
Sodium alginate
(Algin, Texturas brand)
Grapeseed oi l
Basil, blanched and shocked
Water
Calcium lactate
from page 4192
QUANTITY
250g
2g
200g
100 g
500g
2.5g
SCALING
50%
0.4%
40%
20%
100%
0.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until homogenized.
o Press through fine sieve, and reserve refri ge rat ed.
Puree in blender for 3 min.
@ Press through fine sieve.
Decant basil oil, and reserve in syringe.
Blend to d issolve completely.
o Set up four baths: fill one with calcium lactate solut ion, and fi ll three with cold water.
Fill tablespoon with reserved tomato water solution.
Tip spoon into calcium lactate bath to gently release contents.
@ Set in bath until membrane has fully formed around tomato sphere, about 30 s.
@ Inject approximately 3 ml / 0.1 oz of basi I oi l into submerged sphere.
@ Remove syringe; wait for membrane puncture to heal and sphere to reshape, about 15 s.
@ Remove sphere from bath with perforated spoon.
e Repeat procedures with remaining tomato water solution and basi l oil.
@ Rinse spheres in each of three cold water baths.
@ Refrigerate until needed.
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GRUYERE SPHERES ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 2 kg (about 24 sphe res)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Gruyere cheese, finely grated 250 g
Whole milk 1 kg
Propylene glycol algi nate
(Protanal Ester BV,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Salt
Water, room temperature
LM pectin (Genupectin
7.5g
to taste
500 g
20g
LM 104AS, CP Kelco brand)
Water, room temperature 500g
Calci um lactate 2.5g
Yellow onions, thinl y sli ced 200 g
Unsalted butter 50g
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.8g
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste
Rye bread, frozen, 100 g
crusts removed
Oxtail consomme 500 g
see page 46
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
Lemon thyme leaves 10 9
from page 4190
CAPER DROPLETS
INGREDIENT
Capers
White wine vinegar
Caper brine
Calcium lactate
Water
Sodium algi nate
(Algin, Texturas brand)
Neutral oil
fro m page 5159
QUANTITY
90g
6g
5g
3g
500g
2.5g
as needed
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Spread on tray lined with sil icone mat.
@) Bake in 175 C / 350 OF oven until golde n, about 12 min.
400 % Ble nd with cheese until full y in corporated.
3%
200%
8%
200%
1%
o Refri gerate overnight.
Strain through fine sieve.
Season, and pipe into sili cone hemi sphe re molds 3 em / 1y.. in. in di ameter.
(2) Freeze compl ete ly, about 2 h.
Blend until completely dissolve d.
Remove frozen cheese he mi sphe res from molds, and drop into pectin bath.
@ Soak until coated with pectin, about 1 Y2 min.
@ Blend until completely dissolved to make setti ng bath.
@ Drop pectin-coated spheres into setting bath.
@ All ow me mbrane to form, at least 90 s, and then remove from bat h; hold in cold water.
80%
20%
0.32%
40%
200%
@ Saute onio ns until very tender and deep golde n, about 35 min.
@ Puree.
@ Ble nd into o nion puree.
@ Season onion puree.
@ Cut into slices 3 mm /1. in thick with meat sli cer.
@ Roll sli ces through pasta machine to compress.
@ Bake sli ces at 95 C / 205 OF between two sil icone mats for 45 min.
@ Combine, and bring to si mme r.
@ Season soup.
@ Drop cheese spheres into soup, and warm through.
@ Serve spheres in hot consomme with rye bread sli ce smea red with onion puree.
4%
SCALING
100%
6.7%
5.5%
3.3%
(3%)*
555%
2.8%
(0.5%)**
@ Garnis h.
PROCEDURE
<D Blend to fine puree.
@) Pass through fin e sieve.
Whisk into caper puree.
o Disperse algi nate in cold water until fully di ssolved, to make setting bath.
Fi ll squeeze bottle wit h caper puree.
Expel dropl ets into bath, an d leave for 30 s.
(2) Drain droplets, and rinse in fres h water.
Reserve droplets in o il.
*(% of tot a! weight of capers, white wine vinegar, and caper brine)
**(% oftota! weight of water)
GELS
Yi elds100 g
293
I!!
MUSSELS IN MUSSElJUICE SPHERES ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields 200 g (about20 spheres)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Mussel jus 100g
see page 34
Calcium gluconate 2.5g
Xanthan gum (Texturas brand) 0.5 g
Rock mussels
Water
Sodium alginate (Algin,
Texturas brand)
Salt
Water
from page 4191
20 mussels
lkg
5g
7g
400g
SCALING
100%
2.5%
0 .5%
1, 000%
5%
7%
400 %
PROCEDURE
CD Ble nd until completely di ssolved.
o Vacuum seal solution to remove excess a ir.
Refrigerate unti l needed.
o Steam for 3 min until just opened.
Shuck.
Refrigerate to cool quickly.
CD Ble nd to dissolve completely.
Vacuum seal to remove excess a ir.
Set up three baths: fill o ne with sodium a lginate solut ion, and fill two with cold water.
@ Place one mussel at a time onto spoon 2.5 cm / 1 in. in di ameter.
@ Pour 4 g o f reserved mussel jui ce solution onto mussel.
@ Tip spoon carefully into sodium alginat e bat h to gent ly re lease contents.
@) Set in bat h unt il me mbra ne has full y formed, about 5 min.
@ Re move sphere from bath with pe rforated spoon.
@) Re peat procedure wit h re ma ining mussels a nd mussel juice solution.
@ Rinse spheres in two cold water baths.
@) Dissolve salt in wat e r to ma ke brine.
@ Immerse musse l spheres in brine.
@ Re frigerate until needed.
@ To serve,warmsphe res in 60 C/ 140 OF bath for 3 min.
LIQUID PIMENTO OLIVE ADAPTED FROM FERR AN A DRI A Yields480 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Extra-virgin o li ve oil 500g
Thyme 20 g
Orange peel, julienne 15g
Green o lives, pitte d 500g
Olive brine, from olives 200g
Calcium lactate 13.5 g
Xanthan gum (Texturas brand) 1.6 g
Piquillo peppe r, cut in thin
strips (store -bought)
Sodium alginate (Al gin,
Texturas brand)
Water
from page 4193
15g
5g
1 kg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine to make a romat ic o live o il.
4% 0 Reserve for late r use.
3%
100% Ble nd in food processor to fine paste.
40% 0 Press through fine sieve, an d reserve 450 g of o live puree.
2.7% Ble nd by ha nd wit h o li ve puree until completely disso lved.
(3%)*
0.32%
(0.36%)*
3%
1%
200%
Ble nd gradually with o live puree.
CD Cast into hemis phe re molds.
Place pepper strip on top, a nd carefull y push into each hemisphere.
Freeze.
@ Disperse with hand blender, and refri gerate unt il needed.
@ Be fore use, blend until sodi um a lginat e is completely in co rporat e d.
@) Vacuum seal to re move accumu late d bubbles.
@) Pour into bowl to ma ke bat h for setting o lives.
@ Bring bath to simmer.
@) Re move each frozen he misphe re from mold, p lace on spoon, and t ip gently into bath.
@ Setin bat h for 3 min. He mispheres will thaw into spheres, and skin wi ll form.
@) Re move olive sphere from bat h with perforat e d spoon.
@ Rinse sphere twi ce in cold water.
@ Re peat with remaining ol ive he mi spheres.
@ Store sphe rified olives, refrigerated, in reserved aromatic o li ve oil.
*(% of weight of reserved olive puree)
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PROSCIUTTO AND MELON "RAW EGG"
INGREDIENT
For t he setting bath:
Water
Sodi um alginate mCA-algin
400 Powder, TIC Gums brand)
For the egg-yolk base:
Sugar
Calcium lactate
Xanthan gum
Salt
Malic acid
Melonjuice
Forthe "raw" egg-white base:
QUANTITY
2 kg
109
20g
9g
2.5g
1.7 g
l.1 g
500g
(from about
900 g of me lon)
Ham broth, gelati n-clarified 500 g
see page 14 and page 16
Xanthan gum 1.25 g
locust bean gum 0.032 g
(POR/A2 Powder,
TIC Gums brand)
~ from page 4194
SCALING
400%
2%
4%
1. 8%
0.5%
0.3%
0.2%
100%
100%
0.25%
0.006%
Yields five eggs
PROCEDURE
CD Whisk together.
CD Vacuum seal to remove excess air, and refri gerate for 2 h.
Sift together.
o Blend juice into calciu m lactate mi xture, taking care to incorporate as little air as possible.
Dispense with sauce gu n into 2 cm / ! in hemisphere molds.
Freeze.
o Heat sodium alginate solution until fluid is 60-65 C / 140-149 OF.
Remove from heat, and carefully drop in frozen hemispheres.
Leave for 2 min, turn spheres ove r, and leave for1 min longer.
@ Fill three bowls with water: heat two to 75- 80 C / 167- 176 OF; fill third with cold water.
@ Tra nsfersphereswith slotted spoon to first bowl of warm water to rinse for 1 min.
@ Rinse spheres again in second bowl of warm water, and reserve in cold water.
@ Mix,and bri ngto boi l.
@ Pour into sauce gun, and rest at room te mperature unti l about 60 c / 140 OF.
@ Dispense "egg" white into one half of plastic eggshell.
@ Place yolk sphere in center of whi te, and cap with other half of plast ic she ll.
@ Dispense re maini ng white into sealed she ll t hrough dri ll ed hol e unti l overflowi ng.
@ Chi ll over ice.
GEL S 295
?
DAIRY EMULSIONS
ULTRASTABLE BEURRE BLANC
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water, stock, or heavy cream 100g
Agar O.sg
Propylene glycol algi nate O.sg
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
White wine (dry) 100g
Champagne vinegar 30g
Shallots, finely minced 30g
Unsalted butter, small cubed 100g
Liquid soy lecithin 19
Wine reduction, from above 20g
Salt to taste
Lemonjuice to taste
from page 4219
POACHED LOBSTER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Lobster tails, shelled 300 g (four tails)
Beurre blanc, from above 220g
Salt to taste
from page 4219
SCALING
100%
0.5%
0.5%
100%
30%
30%
100%
1%
20%
SCALING
300%
73%
PROCEDURE
CD Dry ble nd agar and propylene glycol alginate, and disperse in cold liquid.
o Heatto 95 C/ 203 OF. Cool unt il fu ll y set, aboutlO min.
Puree to fluid gel.
o Reserve.
Reduce unti l almost syrupy, and strain.
@) Measure 20 g of reduction, and reserve.
(2) Melt butter.
Whisk into warm butter.
Blend reserved wine reduct ion with fluid gel.
Yields 220 g
@ Slowlypourinwarm butter mixture wh il e blending with rotor-stator homogenizer or
other high-shear appliance until fully emulsifi ed.
@ Season, and serve hot with poached lobster (below), or cool and refrigerate.
Yields300 g
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 55 C / 131 OF bath to core temperature of 54 C /
129 of, about 25 min.
o Warm beurre blanc in 90 C / 194 OF bath or in smal l pot over medium heat.
Slice and season lobster, and se rve with warm beurre blanc.
BEET FLEXICURD ADAPTED FROM JOHNNY IUZZIN I Yields900g
INGREDIENT
Isomalt (or sugar)
Salt
LM Pectin 104 AS
(Genu pectin, CP Kelco brand)
Malic acid
Agar(Texturas brand)
High-acyl gell an (Kelcogel
LTlOO, CP Kelco brand)
Kappa carrageenan (Texturas
brand)
Beet juice
see page 2336
Unsalted butter, melted
Beet puree,
brought to simmer
see page 55
from page 4219
QUANTITY
100g
llg
8g
4g
3.4 g
2.6g
19
300g
100g
400g
SCALING
25%
2.75%
2%
(0.9%)"
1%
O.Bs%
(0.38%)'
0.65%
(0.29%)'
0.25%
(0.71%)'
75%
25%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Dry blend.
o Disperse isomalt mixture into cold juice.
Heat to 95 C / 203 of, and hold at that temperature.
o Blend slowly into hot mixture until emulsified .
Add hot puree, and hold atsimmerfor 1 min.
@) Pour mixture into plastic wrap- li ned quarter sheet, and allow to set, about 3 min.
(2) Cover wit h plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
Cut into desired shapes, and serve hot or cold.
*(% of total weight affinal three ingredients)
vnlllM, ~ . KITrH,N MANIIAI
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SEA URCHIN BUTTER
Yields200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sake (dry) 200g 100% o Combine in pot, and reduce to 150 g, about10 min.
Vermouth (dry) ls0g 75% Strain.
Shallots, finely minced sOg 25%
Champagne vinegar 2sg 12.5%
)
Tarragon leaves, minced 19 0.5%
) Black peppercorns, 0.2sg 0.13%
~
coarsely ground
Sea urchin tongues 40g 20% Heat reduction to simmer, and then blend in sea urchin tongues and butter until fully
~
Unsalted butter, cubed 30g 15%
e mul sifi ed.
~
Pink grapefruit confit 30g 15% o Season butter.
syrup
~
see page 146
Limejuice to taste
~
Salt to taste
~
from page 5227
~
OYSTER BUTTER EMULSION Yields22sg
~
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
~ Shallots, finely minced 7sg 150% o Sweat toget her until tender, about 10 min.
~
Clarified unsalted butter SO g 100%
see page 4213
:.
Cel ery, peeled and 35 g 70%
=-
finely minced
Oyster trimmings, from 35 g 70% Add to shallot mixture.
;;
shucked and cleaned
Sweatfor2 min.
oysters
::)
White vermouth 200g 400% o Add to shallot mi xt ure.
~
White fish stock l s0g 300% Simmer until reduced to 150 g.
see page 6
~
Oyster juice, 50g 100%
~
see page 5236
Darjeelingtea leaves 7g 14% Steep in reduction for 3 min.
~
o Strain.
~
Cool, and refrigerate until use.
Unsalted butter sOg 100% To serve, warm reduction. Blend in butte r and creme fralche to form emulsion.
~
Creme fraiche 25g 50%
~
White wine vinegar 5g 10% @) season.
Salt to taste
-
....
from page 5236
"" ....
..
BLACK BUTTER EMULSION Yields300 g
....
~
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Brown fish stock 400g 200% 0 . Reduce to 200 g.
~
see page 6
Fish stock reduction, 200g 100% Blend black butte r, soy sauce, and ink into reduced stock.
~
from above
~
Black butter, warmed 2sg 12.5%
see page 4213
~ White soy sauce 20g 10%
~
Squid ink 2.7 g 1.35%
Unsalted butter, cold 40g 20% Heat black butter emul sion base to low simmer.
~
Whitemiso 20g 10% o Bl end in butter until fully emul sifi ed, and then bl e nd in miso.
...
Lemonjuice as needed Season with lemon juice.
~
from page 5158
...
~
EMULSIONS 297
~
J.

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- -
BROILED TUNA BELLY WITH MONTPELLIER BUTTER Yields 850 g of butter, 500 g of tuna with butter (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Egg yolks, blended
Unsalted butter, melted
Mono- and diglycerides
(Glice, Texturas brand)
160 Bloom gelatin
Sodium caseinate
Garlic chives, pureed
see page 55
Garlic confit
see page 176
Anchovy paste
Pickled ramp bulb, brunoise
seepage178
Spinach, pureed
see page 55
Chives, finely minced
Parsley, finely minced
Young ginger, finely diced
Salt
Lemon zest
Cayenne pepper
Limejuice
Black pepper
Star anise, finely ground
Tuna belly, sliced 5 mm /
y.. in thick
Salt
from page 4220
QUANTITY
100g
450 g
54g
18g
l8g
125g
90g
30g
25 g
25g
15g
15g
109
9g
2.5g
2g
2g
1.2g
0.7 g
400g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
22% CD Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 67 C / 153 OF bath for 30 min.
o Strain through fin e sieve.
100%
12%
4%
0.4%
28%
20%
6.7%
5.5%
5.5%
3.3%
3.3%
2.2%
2%
0.6%
0.4%
0.4%
0.3%
0.2%
89%
Heat to 65 C/ 150 OF, stirring until fl akes have dissolved, and remove from heat.
o Hand blend into warm butter mixture.
@) Blend in cooked egg yolks until smooth.
Combine, and fold into butter mi xture until all components are evenly distributed.
CD Cast onto sheet in one layer1.5 cm /% in thick to form Montpellierbutter.
Freeze, and cut into cubes.
The great advantage of this recipe
is that it allows the butter to stay
emulsified when hot. So when it
melts into a fluid, it doesn't break
into an oi ly slick the way that
traditional compound butters do.
Arrange five slices of tuna on each offour ove nproof plates.
@ Dot with cubes of Montpelli e r butter, and place under broiler for 1 min until butter is
melted, surface is golden, and fish is just warmed through.
@ Season.
BLOOD PUDDING CUSTARD ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields450 g
INGREDIENT
Star anise
Dried ginger
Cinnamon stick
Sichuan peppercorns
Cardamom seeds, black
Heavy cream, stabilized with
hydrocolloids (or processed at
ultrahigh temperature)
Fresh pig's blood
Salt
Sugar
from page 4221
QUANTITY
1.3g
0.5g
0.3g
0.3 g
0.15g
690g
160g
8g
5g
SCALING
0.19%
0.07%
0.04%
0.04%
0.02%
100%
23%
1.2%
0.7%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
o Toast on baking tray at150 C/ 300 OF until fragra nt, aboutlO min.
Cool.
o Crush li ghtly.
@) Place spice blend on cheesecloth.
@) Bundle, and tie cloth at top to form sachet.
CD Heatto 70 C/ 160 OF.
Add spice sachet.
Refrigerate to cool.
@ Discard sachet once infused cream is full y cooled.
@ Combine with infused cream.
@ Transfer to Thermomix fitted with butterfly whisk attachment orto beaker set on
magnetic heating plate with overhead paddle-stirring attachment.
@ Cook in 70C / 160 OF Thermomix or beaker just until pudding has thickened to custard,
about 4 h. Emulsion wil l split if over-reduced.
@ Season.
@ Vacuumseal.
@ Refrigerate until needed.
@ Tose rve, reheat sous vide in 60 c / 140 OF bath.
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CONSTRUCTED CHEESES
CD Combine the liquids and other ingredients (except cheese and milk
powder), and bring to a simmer.
Gradually whisk in the cheese. Also add milk powder, if called for. Whisk
and melt until the cheese is completely incorporated.
Simmer for 2 min. This step is crucial in forming a smooth emulsion rather
than a grainy, broken liquid.
@) Puree with an immersion blender until very smoot h and sil ky. Do not
puree fo ndue; the stringy strands are usuall y considered desirable.
Best Bets for Constructed Cheeses
Recipe Liquid (scaling) Other ingredients
fondue (hot water 80% sod ium citrate
cheese dip)
Fino sherry 40% Joha SDS2 sodium
ordrywhite phosphate (Fibri sol brand)
wine
lambda carrageenan
thin cheese water 100% sod ium citrate
Check pH. A target final pH is li sted in the table. If the emul sion is'not
stable, and the pH reading is higher than listed, it may be necessary to
add more emulsifying salts (sodium citrate or one ofthe phosphates).
Season the cheese with salt, and serve warm. Or pour it into a lightly oi led
mold, and chill for later use.
o Refrigerate. Coverthe cheese surface tightly to prevent a ski n from
forming.
Final
(scaling) Cheese (scaling) pH Note
4.4% Gruyere or young 100% 5.8 keep hot when
1.2%
Fonti na, grated serving; th ickens
sli ghtly if reheated
0.5%
2.0% Swiss cheese, 100% 5.9 very silky texture; very
spread, hot or
whey protein concentrate 1.0%
grated good e ithe r hot or
cold
Joha SDS2 sodium 1.2%
cold
phosphate (Fibrisol brand)
thick cheese water 100% sodium citrate 2.0% Swiss che ese, 100% 6.1 best choice for use in
sauce/ spread,
whey protein 1.0%
grated macaroni and cheese,
hotorcold
concent rate
and cheese omelet
cheese soup, hot water 160% sodium citrate 5.2% Gruyere 100% 6.1 good pairings: beer
whey protein concentrate 1.3%
and cheddar; dry
Riesling a nd Gouda;
port and Stilton
cheeseburger water 67% sodi um citrate 6.7% Emme ntal, grated 100% 6.0 cast into mold quickly
cheese slice
wheat a le 50% iota carrageenan 3.0 % Comte, grated 90%
after combining, or
kappa carrageenan 1.0%
mi xture will set
cheese slice for water 32% sodium citrate 2.0% Gruyere, grated 100% 5.8 best cut into sli ces and
baking (raclette
disodium phosphate 0.8% skim milk powde r 4%
baked until melted
analogue) (BK Giulini brand)
....
from page 4223
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CONSTRUCTED VEAL CREAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tapioca starch 11.2 g
Salt 6g
Whey protein isolate 6g
Iota carrageenan 19
Acetic acid 0.5g
Polysorbate 80 O.4g
Xanthangum 0.16g
White veal stock, cold 250g
see page 6
Rendered veal marrow 80g
from page 533
THE AMERICAN CHEESE SLICE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 230g
Salt 5g
Sodium citrate 14g
Iota carrageenan 6g
(Texturas brand)
Kappa carrageenan 2g
(Texturas brand)
Swiss cheese, grated 200g
White cheddar, grated 180g
from page 4224
CHEESE IN A TUBE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sodium citrate 2 g
Whey protein concentrate
Sodium phosphate
(Joha SDS2, Fibrisol brand)
19
1.2g
Water 100 g
Aged Gouda, finely grated 50 g
Monterey jack, finely grated 50 g
Jalapeno, finely minced 10 g
Cayenne pepper powder 2 g
Salt to taste
from page 4225
SCALING
4.5%
2.4%
2.4%
0.4%
0.2%
0.16%
0.064%
100%
32%
SCALING
115%
2.5%
7%
(2.3%)'
3%
(0.98%)'
1%
(0.33%)'
100%
90%
- - - -
PROCEDURE
CD Combi ne to make emulsifying blend.
o Add emul sifying blend to stock, and homogenize thoroughly.
Warm mixture to 85 'C / 185 ' F, and reserve atsame temperature.
o Warm fat to 85 ' C / 185 ' F.
Drizzle into hot stock mixture whi le blending until fully emulsified.
Serve with blanquette de veau in place of traditional cream sauce.
PROCEDURE
CD Mix dry ingredients, and disperse into water.
o Bring to simmer to hydrate.
Yields360 g
Yields 635g
Add cheese gradually to simmering water mixture, blending constantly with hand
blender.
o Conti nue blending until texture is fluid and smooth.
Pour cheese mixture into greased cylindri cal mold 7 cm in. in diameter and at least
18 cm / 7 in long. Complete the transfer very quickly.
Refrigerate for at least 2 h to set.
o Remove cheese from mold, and sli ce to desired thickness.
Store refrigerated between sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper.
'(% of total combined weight of water and cheeses)
Yields 215 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
2% CD Combine, and bring to simmer.
1%
1.2%
100%
50%
50%
10%
2%
o Gradually whisk cheese into hot liquid until fully incorporated. Simmer for 2 min.
Puree wit h hand blender until smooth.
o Fold into warm cheese mixture.
Adjust seasoning.
Transfer to squeeze bottle, and pipe into unused empty paint tubes. Reserve chilled.
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CHEESYWHIP
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sodium citrate 4g
Whey protein concentrate 2g
Sodium phosphate 2.4g
(Joha SDS2, Fibrisol brand)
Water 200g
Gruyere, finely grated 200g
Whole milk BOg
Salt to taste
from page 4225
CHEDDAR SOUP
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Brown butter 20g
see page 4213
Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 15 g
Shallots, thinly sliced 100 g
Wheat beer (Hefeweizen-style) 160 g
Sodium citrate 5g
Whey protein concentrate 1.3g
Distilled water 160 g
Aged cheddar, finely grated 100 g
Salt to taste
from page 4225
Yields4BOg
SCALING PROCEDURE
2% @ Dry blend powders.
1%
1.2%
100%
100%
40%
<3) Disperse powder mixture in cold water, and bring to si mmer.
Graduall y whi sk cheese into hot liquid until fully incorporated. Simmer fo r 2 min.
@) Puree with hand bl ende r until completely smooth.
Blend into cheese mixture. Cool completely.
o Season generously to compensate for aeration, and pour into 11 wh ipping siphon.
o Charge wit h two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Shake vigorously, and d ispense to serve.
Yields300 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
20%
15%
100%
160%
5%
1.3%
160%
100%
@ Melt butter in pot, and add shallots, garli c, and bay leaf.
<3) Cook over medium heat unt il translucent, about 7 min.
Deglaze pot with beer, and reduce unti l pan is dry.
@) Dissolve sodium citrate and whey protein in water, and add to pot.
Bring to simmer.
o Graduall y whisk into simme ring liqui d until compl ete ly in corporated.
o Puree wit h hand blender unti l smooth. Pass through fine sieve.
Season and serve, or chi ll over ice and refrigerate unti l use.
EMULSIONS
301
EGG EMULSIONS
REMOULADE SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Mayonnaise 90g
store-bought or see page 303
Lemonjuice 55 g
Whole-grain mustard 31 g
Dijon mustard 17 g
Garlic clove, crushed 4g
Green bird's eye chili 3.5g
(fresh), minced
Worcestershire sauce 2.5g
Hotsauce 2g
Hungarian sweet paprika 0.5g
Celery, peeled and finely 30g
minced
Flat-leaf parsley, minced 4g
Celery leaf, minced 2g
Chives, minced 2g
Black pepper, coarsely 0.5g
crushed
Salt to taste
from page 575
WHITE COLESLAW
INGREDIENT
Buttermilk
Grapeseed oil
White balsamic vinegar
Eggyolk, cooked so us
vide, at 65 C / 149 of
for 35 min
Rendered bacon fat
Dijon mustard
Sugar
Salt
Savoy cabbage, fine
julienne
Salt
Green apple, small dice
Horseradish root,
finely grated
Celery seeds,
lightly toasted
from page 572
QUANTITY
60g
29g
20g
199
9g
7g
3g
to taste
150g
19
120g
2g
1.5g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Combine.
(3) Refrigerate.
60%
35%
20%
4.5%
4%
2.5%
2%
0.5%
35%
4.5%
2%
2%
0.5%
SCALING
o Fold into mayonnaise mixture just before serving.
@ Season remoulade.
PROCEDURE
Yields200g
Yields300 g
40%
19%
o Blend thoroughly to make dressing; use rotor-statorhomogenizer, if available, for richer
texture.
13.5%
12.5%
6%
5%
2% (3) Season dressing, and reserve.
100% o Toss cabbage in salt.
@ Let soften for1 min.
0.5%
Toss with dressing.
80% Arrange on coleslaw, and serve immediately.
1.5%
1%
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SEA URCHIN TARTAR SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Eggs (shelled) 60g
lime juice 7g
Dijon mustard 5g
Grapeseed oil 85g
Sea urchin tongues 75g
Cornichons, finely 28g
minced
Scallions, finely minced 20g
Garl ic chives, fine 7.5 g
brunoise
Parsley, finely minced 7g
Chervil, finely minced 4.7 g
Tarragon, finely minced 1.8g
Salt 1.5g
Black pepper 0.5g
Cayenne pepper 0.3 g
from page 51 45
BASIC MAYONNAISE
INGREDIENT
Egg yolks, blended
Water
Dijon mustard
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP KeJco brand)
Grapeseed oi l
lemon juice
White wine vinegar
Salt
from page 4226
QUANTITY
45g
75g
21g
0.7 g
300 g
15g
10 9
to taste
SCALING
71%
8.5%
6%
100%
88%
33%
2%
9%
8.5%
5.5%
2%
2%
0.6%
0.4%
SCALING
15%
25%
7%
0.23%
(0.75%)*
100%
5%
3.3%
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal.
o Cook sous vide in 65 C / 149 of bat h for 30 min.
Chill in ice-water bath.
Peel.
Bl end wit h cooked eggs.
Drizzle into egg mixture whil e blending, until fully emul sified.
o Reserve.
Pass through fin e sieve.
Blend into egg e mulsion.
@) Fold into sauce.
@ Season sauce.
@ Refrigerate unti l use.
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 67 C/ 153 OF bath for 30 min.
(3) Whisk together, and puree with cooked egg yolks until smooth.
Yields300 g
Yields 470 g
Drizzle slowly into egg mixture whil e blending until mixture is fu ll y e mulsifi ed.
Season.
Refrigerate.
*(% of total combined weight of all other ingredients)
HOT EGG MAYONNAISE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR IA Yi elds490 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whole eggs l30 g
Eggyolks 60g
Dijon mustard 35 g
Sunfl ower oil (or other 200g
neutral oil)
Extra-vi rgi n olive oil 50g
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
from page 4227
SCALING
65%
30%
17.5%
100%
25%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until smooth.
o Vacu um seal, and cook in 65 C / 149 OF bath for 35 min.
Combine.
Blend with warm egg mixture until emul sifi ed.
Season.
Pour contents into 11 whipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
o Ho ld fi ll ed siphon in 62 C / 144 OF bath until ready to serve.
Dispense mayonnaise from siphon, and serve with gri ll ed asparagus o r poached fi sh.
EMULSIONS 303
III
I
SOFT-BOILED EGG AND GARLIC EMULSION I NS PIRED BY MICHEL BRAS Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Garlic confit, pressure cooked 30 g
see page 176
White wine vinegar
Whole eggs
Grapeseed oil
Olive oi l
Wal nut oil
Salt
Green onions,
very thinly sli ced
from page 4227
25g
100 g(about
two large)
100g
100g
50g
to taste
30g
SOUS VIDE LEMON CURD
INGREDIENT
Eggyolks
Sugar
Water
Citric acid
Unsalted butter, room
temperature
Lemon essenti al oi l (optional)
Salt
from page 4227
BACON JAM
INGREDIENT
Isomalt
Sugar
Water
Maple syrup (Grade B)
Eggyolks
Rendered bacon fat, warm
Bacon strips, finely diced
Salt
Liquid caramel colori ng
(optional)
from page 4229
QUANTITY
120 g
300g
120 g
8g
400g
1 g
0.4g
QUANTITY
50g
40g
30g
30g
75g
100g
120g
to taste
as needed
SCALING PROCEDURE
30% C0 Puree until smooth.
25%
100%
100%
100%
50%
30%
SCALING
30%
75%
30%
2%
100%
0.5%
0.1%
SCALING
50%
40%
30%
30%
75%
100%
120%
Pass through fine sieve.
Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 67 ' C / 153 ' F bath for 35 min.
o Blend with garlic puree until smooth.
Drizzle in slowly while blending into egg-garli c mixture unti l fully emulsifi ed.
Season.
o Fold in, and refrigerate.
PROCEDURE
C0 Vacuum seal, and cook in 65 ' C / 149 ' F bath for 35 min.
Cool and reserve.
Bring to boil to dissolve sugar and acid.
o Cool to room temperature.
Blend butter with eggyolks and sugar syrup unti l smooth.
Add more essential oil to taste. Other oils besides lemon may be used.
o Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate unti l firm, 4- 24 h.
PROCEDURE
C0 Combine, and heat to 90 ' c / 195 ' F unti l fully dissolved.
Cool and reserve.
Vacuum seal, and cook in 66 ' C / 151 ' F bath for 30 min.
o Strain through fine sieve.
Blend into cooled syrup.
Drizzle slowly into egg syrup while blending constantl y unti l fully emulsified.
o Refrigerate.
Fry or bake in 175 C/ 350 ' F oven until crisp, about 25 min.
Drain on absorbent paper towels. Cool, and store in dry, cool place.
@ Season jam with salt.
Add coloring to achieve desired shade.
@ Fold in 50 g of bacon bits, and serve with warm biscuits (see page 577).
Yields 850 g
Yields375 g
@ If mixture has been refrigerated, it should be tempered for about 20 min before use.
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DEEP-FRIED HOLLANDAISE ADAPTED FROM WYL I E DUFRESNE Yields 1.2 kg (40 pieces)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Unsalted butter, melted 640g
160 Bloom gelatin sheet 60g
low-acyl gell an 3.5 g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium hexametaphosphate 2g
Citric acid 0.6g
Water 170g
Egg yolks, blended 100 g
Water 110 g
Ultra-Sperse M
10 9
(National Starch brand)
l e mon juice to taste
Salt to taste
All-purpose wheat flour 100g
Eggs, ble nded 100g
Engl ish muffins, dried 200g
and ground into powder (four muffi ns)
Frying oil as needed
from page 4228
SCALING
640%
60%
3.5%
2%
0.6%
170%
100%
110%
10%
100%
100%
200%
PROCEDURE
@ Soften gelati n leaves in cold water.
o Drain, and dissolve gelatin in butte r.
Reserve warm.
o Dryble nd.
Add blended powders to pot of water.
o Bring to boil, and remove from heat.
o Pour into containe r.
Refrige rate until set, about 5 min.
Puree gel with yolks unt il fluid, and reserve.
@ Whisk to combine.
@ Blend into yolk gel mi xture until smooth.
@ Drizzle in reserved warm butter while continuously blending to make holl andaise.
@ Season ho ll andaise.
@ Cast into mold 2.5 cm / 1 in thick.
@ Refrigerate until set, about 1 h.
@ Cut set gel into cubes.
@ Dredge cubes evenl y in flour, and shake off excess.
@ Coat cu bes evenly wit h bl e nded eggs.
@ Roll cubes in bread crumbs. Shake off any excess. Re peat breading procedure once.
@ Freeze for 30 min to harde n crusts.
@ Deep-fry cubes in 190 ' C/ 375 ' F oi l until golden, about 1]h min.
@ Drain on pape r towels.
SOUS VIDE INSTANT HOLLANDAISE I NSP I RED BY DANI EL HUMM Yi e lds345 g
INGREDI ENT
White wine (dry)
Shall ots, finely minced
Whi te vinegar
Egg yolks
Stock or water
Unsalted butter, melted
Salt
Malic aci d
Two-stage fried egg
see page2
from page 4228
QUANTITY
100 g
50g
35g
75g
(four large)
20g
225g
4g
1 g
four eggs
SCALING
133%
67%
47%
100%
(28%) ,
27%
300%
5.3%
1.3%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine.
o Reduce to syrup-li ke consistency.
Strain.
o Meas ure 20 g of wine reduction.
Blend thoroughly wit h wine reduction.
Vacuum seal.
o Cook in 65 'C / 149 ' F bath for 30 min.
Remove cooked egg yolk mixture from bag, and
blend in butter mi xt ure until fully emulsified.
Season.
@ Transferto 1 I siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and
shake vigorous ly.
@ Hold si phon in 60 ' C/ 140 ' F bat h.
@ Garnish eggs with holl andaise.
*(% of to to I weight of wine reduction, stock, and unsalted butter)
EMU LSION S
If you choose to use stock rat he r
than water, consider the ingredient
forwhich the hollandaise is being
prepared: us e fis h stock for fish,
poultry stock fo r poultry, and so on.
For stock recipes, see page 2296.
Alternatively, the h oll andaise base
can be cooked sous vide in a 63 ' C
/ 145 ' F bath to produce a li ghte r
foam, or in a slight ly warmer
67 ' C / 153 ' F bath for a de nser
foam.
305
:
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OTHER EMULSIONS
BLACK OLIVE PUREE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
160 Bloom gelatin sheet 2g
Black olive juice 50g
(from 150 g pitted
Kalamata olives)
Sucrose esters 0.5g
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Olive oil 50g
Mono- and diglycerides 0.5g
(Glice, Texturas brand)
from page 4230
SCALING
4%
100%
1%
100%
1%
PROCEDURE
o Soften gelatin in cold water.
o Drain, and set aside.
Heat 10 g of ol ive juice.
o Melt softened gelatin in warm juice.
Add remaining40 gofjuice, and mix.
Blend into juice mixture.
o 5etaside.
Warm oil to 65 C/ 149 OF.
Dissolve Gli ce flakes in oi l.
@ Add oil mixture slowly to juice until it emulsifies and forms puree.
@ Refrigerate puree until thickened, about 2 h.
THICKENED OIL ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR IA
INGREDIENT
Extra-virgin olive oil
(or other oil)
Mono- and diglycerides
(Glice, Texturas brand)
QUANTITY
100g
7g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Heatto 65 C/ 149 OF in saucepan.
7% 0 Add, and stir to dissolve.
Cool oil to room temperature.
o Transfer to bowl held in ice-water bath.
YieldslOOg
YieldslOOg
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o Thickened oil can also be transferred to 11 whippi ng siphon, charged with two cartridges
of nitrous oxide, and di spensed to form thick oi l foam. C"
from page 4230 C
INVINCIBLE VINAIGRETTE
INGREDIENT
Champagne vinegar
Quince vinegar
Pear juice
Dijon mustard
Propylene glycol alginate
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Pistachio oil
Walnutoil
liquid soy lecithin
(NOW brand)
Salt
from page 4231
QUANTITY
80g
35g
20g
5g
0.98g
100g
55 g
30g
1.85g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
80% 0 Combine, and heatto 60 C/ 140 OF.
35% 0 Blend over heat until ingredients are completely incorporated.
20%
5%
0.98%
(0.3%)*
100%
55%
30%
1.85%
(7%)**
Combine oils.
o Drizzle slowly into vinegar mixture while blending; process until emul sifi ed.
Season.
*(% of toto I weightofoll ingredients); **(% of toto I weight of oils)
Yields325g
Use the above recipe as a template for any basic vinaigrette. Different oil s
and acids can be used to create a variety of effects. The vinaigrette is
completely heat stable, so it can be made wit h animal fats or dairy fat for use
in warm salads, eggs, and cooked meats.
For a low-fat version ofthis vinaigrette, replace 100 g of oil with 100 g of
flavorful liquid, 1 g ofUltra-Sperse 5, a nd 0.2 g ofxanthan gum. The overall
flavor will be more acidic, so the liquid used should be quite flavorful orthe
quantity of vinegar used should be reduced.
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SPOT PRAWNS WITH FOIE GRAS NAGE INSPIRED BY THIERRY RAUTUREAU Yields 1.2 kg (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Brown vegetable stock
see page 6
Salt
Propylene glycol alginate
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Raw foie gras, cubed
White miso paste
Chervil, chopped
Limejuice
Salt
Spot prawns
Fresh Iychees, peeled and
seeded (orcanned)
Pink Lady apples, peeled and
finely shaved with mandoline
Peanuts, roasted and crushed
Anise hyssop, small leaves
from page 4233
QUANTITY
250g
3g
0.2g
40g
15g
8g
to taste
to taste
12 prawns
(about 720 g)
60g
60g
10 9
3g
SCALING
100%
1.2%
0.08%
16%
6%
3.2%
about290%
24%
24%
4%
1.2%
PROCEDURE
CD Dry blend propylene glycol alginate and salt.
Disperse powder bl end into cold stock.
Heatto 60 ' ( / 140 ' F to hydrate.
o Blend with warm stock unt il fully emulsified.
Add, and steep nage for1 min.
Strain.
CD Season nage, and reserve warm.
Steam in combi oven at 60 ' ( / 140 ' F and 100% rel ative humidityfor12 min;
or vacuum seal, and cook in 60 ' ( / 140 ' F bath for12 min.
Divide prawns among four bowls.
@ Garnish.
@ Pour warm nage around each portion.
EGG LESS CITRUS CURD INSPIRED BY PASCAL BARBOT Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Lemons, washed, whole 300g
Lemon puree, from above BOg
Grapefruit juice 100 g
Limejuice 60g
Lemonjuice 50g
Lemon zest, finely grated 14g
Grapefruit zest, finely grated 6g
Lime zest, finely grated 2g
Water 130 g
Honey 35 g
Sugar 30g
Propylene glycol alginate 5g
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Salt 5g
Unsalted butter, cubed 200 g
from page 4234
SCALING PROCEDURE
385% CD Vacuum seal in retort pouch, or place in large Mason jar.
100%
77%
46%
38%
11%
4.6%
1.5%
100%
27%
23%
3.8%
3.8%
154%
Place pouch or jar in pressure cooker filled with 2.5 cm / 1 in of water .
Pressure-cook for 30 min at gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi, and cool.
o Re move lemons from pouch or jar, and puree .
Pass through fine sieve, and measure 130 g of puree.
Mix together, and reserve.
CD Combine, and boil for 3 min.
Stir in citrus puree.
Bring mixture to simmer.
@ Blend or whisk butte r cubes into hot citrus mixture in small batches until fully emulsified.
@ Strain through fine sieve, and refrigerate fo r at least 3 h.
EMULSIONS
307
- - - - - - - - ~ ~ - - - - - - - - - - ..........
~
MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sous vide vegetable stock
(or other flavorful liquid)
see page 13
Sherry vinegar
Polysorbate 80
Xanthangum
Extra-virgin olive oil
Walnut oil
Crain mustard
Black peppercorns,
finely crushed
Salt
from page 4231
300g
60g
1.5g
1.5g
150g
130g
60g
to taste
to taste
SAUCE VIN JAUNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Chicken legs and wings, 400 g
from above, cut into
3 em / 1y.. in pieces
Clarified unsalted butter
leeks, whites only,
thinly sliced
Carrot, peeled and thinly
sliced
Chicken carcass,
chopped and blanched
Shallot, thinly sliced
Brown chicken stock
see page 6
Thyme
Bay leaf
Vin jaune duJura
(or Fino sherry)
75g
100g
50g
50g
50g
450 g
5g
2g
120g
Chicken stock reduction, 200 g
from above
Propylene glycol alginate 0.4 g
(Protanal Ester BV4830,
FMC Biopolymer brand)
Rendered chicken fat 40 g
lemon juice
Salt
from page 5116
3011
to taste
to taste
100% CD Whisk together.
20%
0.5% (3) Combine.
0.5% Disperse in stock mi xture, and blend until fully hydrated.
50%
43%
20%
o Slowly blend into stock mixture unti l emulsified.
Fold in.
Season.
SCALING' PROCEDURE
200%
37.5%
50%
25%
25%
25%
225%
2.5%
1%
60%
100%
0.2%
20%
CD Saute chicken pieces in pressure cooker until golden.
(3) Drain and reserve.
Cook together until vegetables are te nde r, about 30 min.
o Combine wit h browned wings and cooked vegetable mixture in pressure cooker.
Cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi forlY2 h.
Cool.
o Strain stock through fine sieve, and reserve.
Reduce to 30 g, about 12 min.
Add res erved stock.
@ Reduce mixture to 200 g.
@ Cool.
@ Disperse PCA into stock reduction.
@ Bring to simmerto fully hydrate.
@ Blend chicken fat into stock reduction until fu ll y emulsifi ed.
@ Season and serve, or cool and refrigerate until use.
*(% of tot 01 weight of stock reduction)
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Yields 700 g
Yields200 g
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-
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 200g 100% CD Disperse agar in water.
;
Agar(Texturas brand} 1.2 g 0.67% o Bringto boil, and hold forl min to fully hydrate.
~
Cool completely until set, about 5 min.
Sucrose esters 2g 1% @) Puree with set gel until smooth.
=
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
~
Olive oil 200g 100% Dissolve Glice fl akes in oil heated to 50 C / 122 OF.
Mono- and diglycerides 2g 1% Gradually blend oil into cold agar mixture until emulsifi ed.
~ (Glice, Texturas brand)
o Cool at room temperature.
=
Salt to taste
Refrige rate for 2 h before serving.
=
from page 4232
=
SPICE MIX EMULSION Yields250 g
~
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
~
Unsalted butter 24g 20% CD Prepare ingredients as noted.
Garlic, finely minced 12 g 10% o Saute together over medium heat until fragrant.
..
Ginger, finely minced 6g 5% .,;
~
Anchovy fill ets, finely minced 5g 4%
Mussel juice 120g 100% Deglaze pan, and reduce mixture to 100 g.
~
see page 37
~
Manzanilla sherry 48g 40%
Xanthan gum 0.2g 0.17% @) Blend into reduction.
..
(O.15Yo )* .,
..
Extra virgin olive oil 30g 25% Blend into reduction until emulsified.
...
Fish spice mix 20g 17% Season emulsion, and serve or refrigerate until use.
..
see pageS1
.-
~
Champagne vinegar to tas te
from page 5155 *(Yo of total weight of mussel-sherry reduction and olive oil)
~
~ OLIVE OIL "MARGARINE" Yields420g
~ INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
"
Water 80g 31% o Dry blend agar and propylene glycol a lginate.
Propylene glycol alginate 1.85 g 0.7% (3) Disperse powder mixture into cold water.
~ (Protanal Ester BV 4830, (O.44Yo )*
Bring mixture to boil to hydrate.
...
FMC BioPolymer brand)
@) Cool at room temperature until set. ...,
Agar(Texturas brand} 1 g 0.4%
Puree gel until smooth to form fluid gel.
...
(0. 24Yo } *
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Pregelatinized starch paste 80g 31% Blend into fluid gel.
-
see page200
"'11\ Olive oil 260g 100% o Warm to 30 C/ 85 OF.
-
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Blend oil grad uall y into fluid gel slowl y until emul sified.
-
Salt to taste Season and chi ll.
~
from page 4235 *(Yo of total weight of other ingredients)
~
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EMULSIONS 309
-1
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I
CONSTRUCTED CREAMS
PISTACHIO GELATO
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 680g
Pistachio butter 210g
see page 54
Sugar 155 g
Pistachio oil 102g
Salt 22g
locust bean gum (POR/A2 3g
Powder, TIC Gums brand)
lambda carrageenan 2g
(Texturas brand)
Polysorbate 80 0.8g
Glycerol monostearate 0.15g
from page 4236
HAZELNUT "CREAM"
INGREDIENT
Water
Tapioca starch
Whey protein isolate
Citric acid
Polysorbate 80
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Roasted-hazelnut oil
see page 41 (or store-bought)
Salt
from page 4236
JUS GRAS
INGREDIENT
Shallots, minced
Neutral oil
Fino sherry
White port (dry)
Brown chicken stock
seepage 6
Sous vide chicken juice
see page 34
Reduced jus base,
from above
Propylene glycol alginate
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
liquid soy lecithin
{NOW brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Rendered chicken fat,
or butter, melted
see page 3145
Salt
lemon juice
from page 4237
QUANTITY
250g
lUg
6g
0.5g
0.4 g
0.16g
80g
to taste
QUANTITY
80g
20g
100g
50g
450g
200g
200g
0.6g
0.4g
O.4g
80g
to taste
to taste
SCALING
100%
30.9%
22.8%
15%
3.2%
0.44%
0.3%
0.12%
0.02%
SCALING
100%
4.48%
2.4%
0.2%
0.16%
0.06%
32%
SCALING
40%
10%
50%
25%
225%
100%
100%
0.3%
0.2%
0.2%
40%
Yields 1.1 kg
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until smooth.
o Dry blend, and disperse in pistachio mixt ure.
Warm to 60 C / 140 OF.
If using a Pacojet in step 6,
omit the locust bean gum.
o Homogenize until very smooth, and cool.
Season with more salt, if desired.
Churn, and reserve in freeze r; or freeze in Pacojet container, and pacotize to serve.
PROCEDURE
CD Dry blend hydrocoll oids ot her than polysorbate.
o Disperse in cold water, and blend in polysorbate.
Yields350g
Homogenize thoroughly with commercial blender or rotor-stator homogeni zer,
if avai lable. .
o Warm to 85 C/ 185 of, and hold mixture atthattemperature.
Warm oil to 85 C/ 18S of.
Drizzle into mixture whil e shearing at fu ll speed until fully emulsifi ed, and then cool.
o Season cream, and vacuum seal.
Store refrigerated; serve hot or cold.
PROCEDURE
CD Saute shallots until golden, about 5 min.
o Add to pan of sauteed shall ots.
Reduce mixture to glaze.
o Combine with glaze in pot.
Reduce until syrupy, to about one-third of original weight.
Strain, and measure 200 g of reduced jus base.
o Disperse emulsifiers into reduced jus base.
Yields 280 g
Warm to hydrate PCA, and blend in commercial blender or rotor-stator homogenizer
until very smooth.
Drizzle slowly into warm jus, blending constantly until fully emulsifi ed.
@ Season and serve. Or cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
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CHILLED CHICKEN-NOODLE SOUP Yields 1.2 kg (four portions)
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INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Chicken thigh meat, ground 600 g
White chicken stock 300 g
see page 6 and page 11
Salt 10 g
ActivaRM 8g
Sodium tripolyphosphate O.lS g
(Nutrifos 088, ICL Performance
Products brand)
Gum arabic
Bay essential oil
Thyme essential oil
Consomme Madrilene
see page 42
Salt
Tarragon leaves (small)
Thyme leaves
from page 4238
GINGER COLA
INGREDIENT
Distilled water, cold
Ginger, peeled and grated
30g
15 g
15g
300g
to taste
to taste
to taste
QUANTITY
200g
3Sg
Ginger, thinly sliced and 300 g
blanched three times in boiling
water to remove bitterness
Distilled water 200g
Sugar 120 g
Gum arabic 20g
Brominated vegetable oil Sg
Lemon essential oil Sg
Sweet orange essential oil Sg
Vanilla extract 2.Sg
Gingersyrup, from above 200g
Ginger water, from above 12Sg
Lime juice 16.5g
Liquid caramel color 1.25 g
Essential oil base, from above 0.33g
from page 4239
SCALING PROCEDURE
200% 0 Puree unti l smooth.
100%
3.3%
2.7%
O.OS%
10%
5%
5%
100%
(3) Pass through fine sieve.
Divide into 100 g portions.
@) Place each portion between two layers of plastic wrap, and roll evenly into layer1.S mm /
X. in thick.
Vacuum seal sheets individually.
Cook sous vide in 62 C/ 144 OF bath for 12 min.
o Refrigerate sheets for 3 h.
Remove from so us vide bags, and cut chill ed sheets into noodles 3 mm / Ya in thick,
yielding aboutlOO g per portion. Reserve.
Homogenize until smooth.
@ Blend 1.2 g of gum-oil mixture into cold consomme. Liquid wi ll remain clear.
@ Season consomme.
@ Divide noodles among four bowls, for ming nest in each.
@ Pour consomme over noodles. Garnish chi ll ed soup with leaves.
Yields340g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Combine, and steep at room temperature for
17.S% 20 min.
lS0%
100%
60%
10%
2.S%
2.S%
2.S%
1.2S%
100%
62.S%
8.2Sg
0.62%
0.16%
(0.7%)*
(3) Strain, and reserve 12S g of ginger water.
Combine, and simmer n t i l sugar is dissolved.
@) Remove from heat, and steep at room
temperat ure for 20 min.
Cool completely, and reserve 200 g of ginger
syrup.
Blend to form smooth essential oil base.
o Blend together until combined.
Pour mixture into soda siphon.
Vent with one cartridge of carbon dioxi de, and
then charge with two cartridges.
@ Refrigerate siphon on ice for at least 3 h before
serving.
*(% of toto I weight of ginger water and ginger syrup)
EMULSIONS
Other sodas can be made in
a simi lar way by using a nano-
emulsion with essential oils.
Stock or an infusion can be used
in place of the water.
"Open Cola" is a commercial drink
with a published recipe (available
on the Internet) said to be inspired
by Coca-Cola. You can use that rec-
ipe with the techniques described
here to make your own cola or to
experiment with other ingredients.
Ferran Adria, Marc Veyrat, Jean-
Georges Vongerichten, and a num-
ber of other chefs have featured
homemade sodas in their
restaurants.
311
FROTHS, AIRS, AND BUBBLES
@ Select a texture, and choose your foaming agents. See the table below
for our recommendations.
are relative to the weight of the liquid (for example, whip in 1.25 g of soy
lecithin for every 100 g of apple juice to make a dry, coarse apple air) .
(3) Combine the foaming agents and the liquid. Many flavorful liquids,
including fruit jui ces and vinegars, foam well. The proportions given
Process, using the tool suggested in the table, until the desired texture
appears. All foams are heat stable unless otherwise noted.
Best Bets for Airs, Bubbles, and Froths
Texture Foaming agents (scaling)* Equipment Notes Example See page
dry, coarse airs de-oiled soy lecithin 1.25% handheld mi lk whipper drain for 4 min mignonette a ir next
powder
Sucro 1.2% e lectric whisk milk foams
(Texturas brand)
160 Bloom gelatin 2% e lectric whisk disperse cold, then heat dairy foams
Activa RM 1%
forl0 min at 40 C / 104 OF
wet, coarse glucose syrup DE 40 10% fish tank bubbler use liquids with a pH of honey bubbles 314
bubbles
a lbumin powder 2%
at least 4.5
xanthan gum 0.1%
wet, coarse froths de-oiled soy lecithin 1% hand blender a llow liquid to drain for citrus air below
xa nt ha n gum 0.2%
2 min before serving
glucose syrup DE 40 8% handhe ld milk whipper light sweetness from fruit and vegetable
de-oiled soy lecith in 0.7%
glucose juice foams
powde r
butter, melted 10%-20 % ha nd blender foamy butter sauce
Sucro 1.2%
(Texturas brand)
whey protein isolate 2% handheld milk whipper heat-stable up to foamy broths, light
sodium caseinate 0.5%
85 C/ 185 F soups
sod ium caseinate 1% handhe ld mi lk whipper heat-stable up to light, beer-like
de-oiled soy lecithin 1%
85 C/ 185 OF foams
Sucro 1.2% handheld mi lk whipper heat-stable up to latte style foams, 315
(Texturas brand) 85 C/ 185 OF li ght mil k shake
whey protein isolate 1%
foams
from page 4264 *(set weight of liquid to 100%)
CITRUS AIR I NSPIRED BY MARC VEYRAT Yields 80 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
lime juice 120 g 100% @ Combine and blend until sugar, lecithin, and
Marc Veyrat found that increasing
lemon juice 80g 67%
xanthan are dissolved.
the viscosity of lecithin foams
Sugar 8g 6.7%
(3) Whip with handheld foaming wand or hand
prevents them from losing so much
Salt 2g 1.7%
bl ender unti l suffi cient foam is formed.
water and therefore gives them
Allow to drain for 2 min forfoam to stabil ize.
a better fina l texture and appear-
De-oiled soy lecithin powder 2g 1.7% ance. This can be done either with
(Lecite, Texturas brand) (1%)* a hydrocolloid thickener suchas
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, O.4g 0.3%
xanthan gum or with dissolved
CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)*
solids such as sugar.
from page 4265 *(% of total weight oflime and lemon juices)
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OYSTERS WITH MIGNONETTE AIR I NSP IRED BY FERRAN ADRIA. YieldslOO g
INGREDIENT
Water
Sherry vinegar
Seaweed vinegar
see page23
QUANTITY
200g
150g
50g
Shallots, thinly sliced 50 g
White balsamic vinegar 50 g
Black pepper, coarsely ground 5 g
Salt to taste
Vinegar mixture, from above 400 g
De-oiled soy lecithin powder 5 g
(lecite, Texturas brand)
Kumamoto oysters fo ur oysters
from page 4265
PARSLEY FOAM
SCALING PROCEDURE
50% @ Bl end.
37.5% 0 Refrigerate for 1 h to macerate.
12.5%
12.5%
12.5%
1.25%
100%
1.25%
Strain, yielding 400 g of vinegar mixture.
o Blend until lecithin powder is fully dissolved.
Whip with hand blender or handhe ld whipping
wand until thick and coarse foam forms.
All ow foam to drain for 2 min to stabilize.
0) Garnish with foam.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Parsley juice
Deoiled soy lecithin
powder
Salt
265 g 100% @ Blend together until powder is thoroughly incorporated.
(from about
500 g parsley)
4 g 1.5%
1 g 0.4% (3) Season juice.
Soy lecithin-based "airs" are
conside red dry foams because
most of the water that is used
to create the foam drains away
very quickly. Once the water
drains away, there is very little left
but a coarse matrix of bubbles.
These types offoams should always
be made with very intense flavors
fortheir impact to be more than
simply aesthetic.
Yields265g
~
~
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~
~
~
~
~
~
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~
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Foam juice with immersion blender or handheld wand mixer (see page 4252 for step by step).
from page 5231
KANPACHI SASHIMI WITH CITRUS FOAM INSPIRED BY QUIQUE DACOSTA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
White fish stock 500g
see page 6
Lemongrass, finely 30g
chopped
Lemon verbena (fresh) 7g
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
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~
~
~
~
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaves 5 g
Lemon zest 3.5g
White peppercorns, 0.75g
crushed
Sucrose esters 1.5g
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Salt to taste
lemon juice to taste
Kanpachi (raw), thinly 200g
sliced
Kumquats, thinly sliced 40g
Mint leaves, torn 4g
Sous vide ponzu 50g
see page 22
from page 4269
= 3
SCALING
100%
6%
1.4%
1%
0.7%
0.15%
0.3%
40%
8%
0.8%
10%
PROCEDURE
@ Combine.
(3) Heatstock to 60 0( / 140 OF, and hold for12 min.
Strain infused stock into open container.
o Cool completeli
Bl e nd into cold, infused stock.
Season stock generously.
0) Foam citrus-seasoned stock with fish tank bubbler.
Arrange fish on center offour plates, 50 g on each plate.
Garnish.
@ Pour aro und fish.
@ Garnish each portion with citrus foam.
FOAMS
Yields 320 g (four portions)
313

GEODUCK WITH SEAWATER FOAM
Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Geoduck juice, reserved 200 g
from shucking
Water 50g
White soy sauce 35 g
Sodium caseinate 2.5 g
De-oiled soy lecithin 2.5 g
powder(Texturas brand)
Geoduck siphon, cleaned, 200 g
peeled, and trimmed
see pageS200
FicoYde glaciale (ice plant) 40 g
Pickled ramps, thinly 40 g
sliced
see page 178
from page 4266
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Blend with hand blender until powders are fu ll y incorporated.
25%
17.5%
1.25%
(1%)*
1.25%
(1%)*
25%
5%
5%
o Whip with handheld whipping wand until stiff seawater foam forms at liquid's surface.
Slice thinly.
@) Divide equally, and arrange on center of each plate.
Garnish.
Spoon some seawater foam on top of each portion.
*(% of to tal weightofftrstthree ingredients)
EDIBLE SOAP BAR WITH HONEY BUBBLES ADAPTED FROM ANDON I LUIS ADURIZ Yields400g
INGREDIENT
Water
Wildflower honey
Albumin powder
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP KeJco brand)
Salt
All-purpose flour, sifted
Hazelnut flour
Sugar
Salt
QUANTITY
lkg
150g
20g
19
0.5g
110g
40g
30g
3g
Rendered ham fat, melted 40 g
Cocoa butter, melted 30 g
Olive oil 30g
from page 4267
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
15%
2%
0.1%
0.05%
11%
4%
3%
0.3%
4%
3%
3%
CD Blend fully with hand blender.
o Strain.
Vacuum seal to remove accumulated bubbles.
@) Refrigerate honey bubbl e base.
Arrange in thin, even layer on baking sheet.
Bake at170 C/ 340 OF until golde n brown, about20 min.
(]) Combine, and whisk into warm, browned all -purpose flour.
Combine.
Fold into flour mixture.
@ Pour into small rectangular silicone molds that resembl e bars of soap.
@ Freeze "soap" bars completely, about 30 min.
@ Toserve, transfer honey bubble base to open container.
@ Place aquarium bubbler tube at bottom of container.
@ Turn on bubbler, and leave until desired amount of bubbles have accumulated, about 5 min.
@ Arrange soap bar in center of each plate, and garnish with bubbles.
SAFFRON HONEY FOAM Yields150g
INGREDIENT
Water,warm
Saffron threads
Honey
Deoiled soy lecithin
powder
Whey protein isolate
Salt
from page 594
QUANTITY
lOOg
O.4g
36g
l .4g
0.2g
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Combine.
0.4%
36%
1.4%
0.2%
o Infuse for10 min at room temperature.
Combine with saffron water.
@) Blend until completely incorporated.
Season generously to compensate for aeration.
Whip with handheld whipping wand until abundant foam forms on surface.
(]) All ow to drain for1 min before using.
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lYCHEE AND LIME SODA Yields200g(fourservings)
INSPIRED BY SANG-HOON DEGEIMBRE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Lychee juice, clarified 200g
Fructose to taste
Malicacid to taste
Dextrose 40 g
Bakingsoda 15g
Citric acid 15g
Lime essenti al oil 0.05g
Water 7g
Lime tablets, from above four tablets
from page 426B
TOMATO VINEGAR FOAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Tomato water 1 kg
seepage40
White wine vinegar 150 g
Salt 2.5g
Saffron threads 19
Whey protein isolate 2g
Deoi led soy lecithin 1 g
from page 565
SCALING PROCEDURE
500% CD Season Iychee jui ce.
o Reserve refrigerated.
100%
37.5%
37.5%
0.1%
17.5%
Combine to for m lime base.
o Grind into fine powde r with mortar and pest le.
Add slowly to lime base, incorporating small amount
at a time; make sure mixture does not foam.
@) Pack into circul ar molds (2.5 cm / 1 in. in diameter and
2.5 mm / 1 in hi gh). This wi ll produce 3 g tablets. Store
in cool, dry place.
o To serve, pour 50 g of lychee jui ce into each offour
serving glasses.
Add one lime tablet to each glass; tablet fizzes as it
dissolves.
All ow to dissolve completely before consuming soda.
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Reduce to 125 g.
14%
0.24%
0.1 %
0.2%
0.1%
o Add to reduced tomato water.
o Cool.
o Vacu um seal.
Refrigerate for12 h to infuse.
@) Whisk into infused tomato water until dissolved.
o Heat mixt ure to 35 c / 95 OF.
You can use store-bought Iychee
jui ce if you wish, but we prefer
fresh. For methods of clarifying
fresh fruit juice, see page 2351.
This dish makes tablets reminiscent
of Alka-Seltzer, which produces a
fizzy drink when dissolved in water.
Yields125g
Whip mi xture with handheld wand mi xer until thick foam forms.
All ow foam to drain for 1 min before using.
CAPPUCCINO FOAM I NSP IRED BY FERRAN ADR IA YieldslOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
2%milk 500g
Coffee beans, coarsely lOOg
crushed
Sugar 40g
Glucose syrup DE 40 10 9
Black cardamom seeds 19
Infused milk, from above 400g
Sucrose esters (Sucro, 4.8g
Texturas brand) 4g
Whey protein isolate
from page 4266
SCALING
100%
20%
8%
2%
0.2%
100%
1.2%
1%
PROCEDURE
CD Combi ne.
o Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for 12 h to infuse.
o Strain coffee milk, discarding coffee beans and cardamom seeds, and measure 350 g
for recipe.
Dry blend powders, and dispe rs e in infused mi lk.
@) Place in beaker of milk shake whipper; process until very frothy.
FOAMS
3 15
d
LIGHT FOAMS
@ Select the recipe that matches the temperature and bubble size
you want.
Hydrate, using the temperature and time given. This is not required for
cold-soluble foaming agents.
@) Chill or heat the liquid to servi ng temperature. Measure the ingredients carefull y, and combine the foaming agents with
the liquid. Set the weight of the liquid to 100%. For example, to make a
hot, coarse foam, add 0.35 g ofxanthan gum and 0.20 g of guar gum for
every 100 g of li quid.
To serve, aerate the mixture with a whisk or mixer. Alternatively, pour
the liquid into a 1 I whipping siphon, pressurize by using the number
of nitrous oxide cartridges suggested in the table, and dispense.
Best Bets for Light Foams
Hydrate
Nitrous
Serving Bubble oxide
temperature size Foaming agents (scaling)* (oC) (oF) (min) Foaming method charges Example See page
cold fine 160 Bloom gelatin 1% 60 140 5 siphon 2 blood orange foam next
160 Bloom gelatin 0.90% 60 140 5 siphon 2- 3 corn foam 318
xanthan gu m 0.27%
a lbumin powder 10% cold e lectric whi sk 3 li ght coating foam
or siphon
coarse xanthan gum 0.7% cold siphon 3 lemon verbena and 318
peach froth
xanthan gum 0.20% 95 203 3 siphon 2 cava foam 327
agar** 0.25%
hot and cold fine low-acyl gell a n** 0.3% 95 203 3 siphon 2 eggless sabayon, warm,
beer-like foam
agar** 0.4% 95 203 3 siphon 2
eggyolk** 29.0 % 70 158 30 siphon 3 be rgamot sabayon 319
Maltrin MlOO 5.5%
coarse xanthan gum 0.25% cold siphon 3 dairy-free milk shake
guar gum 0 .15%
from page 4270 *(set weight of liquid to 700%); **(makefluid gel beforefilling siphon)
HORCHATA FOAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Chufa nuts 450g
Water 250 g
Sugar 16g
Chufa mi lk, cold, 200g
from above
Deoi led soy lecithi n 6g
Whey protein isolate l.4 g
Salt as needed
from page 5244
SCALING
225%
125%
8%
100%
3%
0.7%
PROCEDURE
@ Cover nuts with water.
Soak in refrigeratorfor 12 h.
Drain.
@) Combine with soaked nuts.
Blend to smooth, fine texture.
@ Pass through fine sieve to extract chufa mi lk.
o Vacuum seal, and refrigerate unti l cold.
Dispers e soy lecithin and whey protein isolates in milk.
Blend thoroughly.
@ Season chufa milk.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate unti l use.
Yields200 g
@ To serve, foam horchata with handheld foaming wand or immersion blender until thick foam
layer forms.
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WHIPPED CHEESE I NSP IR ED BY ALEX STUPAK Yields500 g
INGREDIENT
Gruyere water
see page 20
Salt
Maltrin M100
(GPCbrand)
Iota carrageenan
(Genuvisco J, CP Kelco
brand)
Lambda carrageenan
(Texturas brand)
Cheese-infused milk,
from above
from page 4272
QUANTITY
500g
to taste
20g
1.25g
0.75g
500g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Season cheese water.
o Reserve.
4%
0.25%
0.14%
100%
Dry blend powders.
@) Disperse powder mixture in cold mil k.
Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
@) Whi le still warm, pour into standing mixer, and whi p
at high speed until stifffoam forms and becomes cold.
o Spoon into piping bag, and pipe to orde r.
BLOOD ORANGE FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR IA Yields250 g
INGREDIENT
160 Bloom gelatin
Blood orange juice
from page 4272
MILK FOAM
INGREDIENT
Skim milk
Leeks, whites only,
t hinl y sli ced
Button mushrooms,
gills and skin removed,
thinly sliced
Turnip, peeled and
t hinl y sli ced
Sweet onions, thinly
sliced
Garlic, thinly sli ced
Thyme
QUANTITY
2.5g
250g
QUANTITY
500g
75 g
50g
35 g
25g
7g
0.75g
Sucrose esters 3.5 g
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Methocel F50 1.75 g
(Dow brand}
from page 533
SCALING PROCEDURE
1%
100%
SCALING
100%
15%
10%
7%
5%
1. 5%
0.15%
0.7%
0.35%
CD Di sperse into 50 g of cold juice and heat unti l gelati n is
fully dissolved.
o Combine with re maining cold juice. Strain.
Transfer to siphon, and charge wit h one nitrous oxide
cartridge.
@) Refrigerate siphon for at least 2 h before use.
Yields500 g
PROCEDURE
CD Vacu um seal together.
o Cook sous vide in 85 O( / 185 OF bath for 1 h.
Strain.
@) Reserve hot.
Blend together.
@) Shear into strained hot mil k mi xt ure.
o Cool, and vacuum seal.
Refrigerate milk foam for12 h to hydrate.
Warm infused milk to room temperature, a nd foa m
wit h handhe ld milk frot her until abundant amount of
foam forms on surface of milk, about 2 min. Allow to
drai n for 1 min, and then use as garnish.
FOAMS
Alex Stupak aerates a carrageenan
fluid gel as it is setting. This process
is quite versatile and can be
adapted to make various aerated
textures that are not dependent on
a whipping siphon.
This basic formula can be used for
any cold foam.
317
LEMON VERBENA AND PEACH FROTH ADAPTED FROM QU IQ UE DA COSTA Yields 700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water
Dried peaches
lemon verbena (fresh)
800g
200g
50g
Peach infusion, from 700 g
above
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 5 g
CP Kelco brand)
Seasonal herbs and
blossoms
from page 4273
as needed
114% @ Combine.
28.5% Bring to boil.
Cool to 60 C/ 140 of, and hold.
7% @ Add.
100%
0. 7%
Cover, and stee p at 60 C/ 140 OF for 3 min.
@ Strain through fin e sieve, measuring 700 g of peach infusion.
eD Cool complete ly.
Blend until mi xture thi ckens.
Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with three ca rtri dges of nitrous oxide.
@ Shake vigorously, and di spe nse in desi red amounts.
Garnish.
CORN FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Corn juice 110 g 100% @ Combine xanthan gum with 55 g of corn juice.
(from 250 g corn
kerne ls)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.4 g
CP Kelco brand)
160 Bloom gelatin 1 g
Heavy cream 40 g
Salt to taste
from page 4273
The spray-dried blood orange juice
can be purchased from Obipektin,
or see page 2443 for a recipe.
0.4%
(0.27%)*
0.9%
(0.7%)*
Disperse gelatin into re maining 55 g of corn jui ce.
Heat until full y dissolved.
36% @ Combine cream with corn juice and gelat in mixt ures.
Strain.
@ Season corn cream.
eD Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, a nd charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
Refri gerate for at least 3 h before use.
*(% of total weight of other ingredients)
BLOOD ORANGE SABAYON Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Shallots, finely minced 75 g
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g
White wine (dry) 450 g
White wine vinegar 20 g
Blood orange juice 260 g
Unsalted butter, melted 62 g
Eggyolk, cooked in 69 C/ 48 g
156 OF bath for 35 min
Spray-dried blood orange 40 g
juice
Heavy cream
lemon juice
Salt
Xanthan gum
from page 5148
38g
15g
4g
0.2g
SCALING
29%
19%
173%
7.7%
100%
24%
18.5%
15%
14.6%
5.8%
1.5%
0.08%
(0.06%)*
PROCEDURE
@ Sweat until tender, about 7 min.
(3) Add to shallots, and reduce to 120 g.
Reserve.
@ Reduce orange juice to 30 g.
Combine with shall ot and orange juice reductions to
make sabayon base.
@ Tra nsfer to 11 whipping siphon.
eD Warm sabayon-filled siphon in 65 C / 150 OF bath for
at least 20 min.
Charge siphon wi th two nitrous oxide cartridges.
Shake vigorously and di spense to serve.
*(% of total weight of shallot and orange juice reductions and other
base ingredients)
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SOUS VIDE SOLE WITH BERGAMOT SABAYON Yields 900 g(four portions)
INGREDIENT
Vermouth (dry)
Champagne vinegar
Shallots, finely minced
Egg yolks, blended
Cream sherry
Fino sherry
Earl Grey tea leaves
White fish stock
see page 6
Tea infusion, from above
Wine reduction, from
above
Maltrin M100
(GPCbrand)
Bergamot essential oil
Cayenne pepper
lemon juice
Salt
Black mussels, live
QUANTITY
100g
50g
50g
208g
30g
25g
7.5g
250g
45g
25g
15g
0.1 g
to taste
to taste
to taste
250g
(24 small)
Rex sole, skin removed four whole
(small)
Clarified unsalted butter 40 g
see page 4213
Salt to taste
Bergamot (fresh) onewhole
from page 4274
SCALING
40%
20%
20%
83.2%
(65%)'
12%
10%
3%
100%
18%
10%
6%
0.04%
100%
vari es
16%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
(3) Reduce to syrup.
Strain, discarding shall ot bits.
@) Measure 25 g of wine reduction, and set as ide.
Cook sous vide in 70 O( / 158 OF bath for 35 min, and reserve.
Vacuum seal together.
CD Infuse in 85 O( / 185 OF bath for 6 min.
Strain, reserving tea infusion.
Combine.
@ Blend with cooked egg yolks until smooth to make sabayon base.
@ Season sabayon base generously.
@ Transferto 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@ Hold filled siphon in 62 0( / 144 OF bath to reserve.
Vacuum seal in one even layer.
@ Submerge in boiling water for 3 min.
@ Shock in ice water, and remove from bag.
@ Shuck, reservingjuices in bag and shells.
@ Strain jui ce over shucked mussels.
@ Refrigerate mussels.
Vacuum seal each sale individually with 10 g of butter.
@ Cook sale packets so us vide in 47 O( / 117 OF bath to core temperature of 46 O( / 115 OF, about
30min.
@ Remove from packets, and place one fish on each serving plate.
@ Warm mussels in small pot.
Season sole.
@ Garnish wit h sabayon and mussels.
@ Grate zest finely over sol e to finish . Serve with crispy potatoes or potato puree.
*(% of total weight of stock, tea infusion, and wine reduction)
COCONUT-LOBSTER EMULSION Yields 600g
INGREDIENT
Spiced shellfish stock
see page 9
Coconut cream powder
(store-bought)
White soy sauce
locust bean gum (TIC
Gums brand)
Whey protein isol ate
from page 5187
QUANTITY
600g
25g
to taste
0.86g
2.3g
SCALING
100%
4.2%
0.15%
(0.75%)'
0.4%
(2%)'
PROCEDURE
CD Reduce to 90 g.
o Cool.
Whisk into reduced stock.
@) Season stock.
Disperse into cold stock.
Bring to boil to hydrate, and remove from heat.
CD Whisk into stock until dissolved.
Foam coconut-lobster emulsion with steam wand of espresso machine (see page 319), or heat
whi le whipping with handheld milk frother until dense, wet foam forms.
*(% of total weightofshelljish stock reduction and coconut cream powder)
FOAMS 319
.t
MUSHROOM AND BACON CAPPUCCINO INSPIRED BY MARC VEYRAT
Yields 550 g
INGREDIENT
Smoked bacon, thinly
sliced
Heavy cream
Water
QUANTITY
100g
60g
20g
White pork stock, cold 200 g
see page 6
Bacon cream, from above 75 g
Whole milk, cold 15 g
Salt to t aste
Agar (Texturas brand)
Mushroom jus
see page 37
Madeira
2g
200g
15g
Dry shiitake, thinly sli ced 5 g
Star anise
Coffee butter
see page 350
from page 4275
19
10 9
SCALING PROCEDURE
50% CD Fry in dry nonstick pan until golde n, about 10 min.
30% 0 Add to bacon, and simmer for 20 min.
10% Strain cream through fine si eve.
o Cool.
100%
37.5%
7.5%
1%
(0.7%)*
100%
7.5%
2.5%
0.5%
5%
Measure 75 g ofbacon cream.
Whisk togethe r, and season generously to compe nsate for aeration.
o Di spe rse in cold stock and cream mi xture.
Heat to 95 ' ( / 203 ' F, and hold for 3 min to full y hydrate.
Pour into container, and allow to set, about 5 min.
@ Puree to fluid gel, and transfer to 1 I whipping siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@ Heat siphon in 50 ' ( / 122 ' F bath for 15 min to make bacon foa m.
@ Combine, and simmer for 2 min.
@ Bl e nd into hot mushroom jus mi xture.
@ Pour into cups or bowls.
@ Garni sh with bacon foam.
*(% of to tal weight of cold stock and cream mixture)
POACHED APPLE WITH PECORINO FOAM Yields 450 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whole milk 650g
Pecorino Romano, grated 350 g
Cheese infused milk, 400g
from above
Heavy cream 100 g
Lambda carrageenan 1 g
Salt to taste
Pink Lady apples, peeled, 200 g
cored, and halved (two medium)
Hard apple cider 50g
Unsalted butter 50 g
Bay leaf, thinly sliced 0.1 g
Vanilla seeds and pulp, O.l g
scraped from pod
from page 4276
SCALING
163%
88%
100%
25%
0.25%
100%
25%
25%
0.05%
0.05%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, an d vacuum seal.
o Infuse, refri gerated, for 12 h.
Strain through fin e sieve, and measure 400 g infused milk.
o Bl end until smooth.
Season cheese mi xture.
Transfer to 11 whippi ng siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
o Vacuum seal each appl e half individuall y with equal qua ntiti es of cider, butte r, bay leaf, and
van ill a seeds.
Cook sous vide in 80 ' ( / 176 ' F bat h for 2 h.
Strain appl es oversmall potto catch cooking jui ces.
@ Reduce jui ces to glaze.
@ Se rve warm appl es with warm appl e glaze, cool Pecorino Romano foam, and toasted brioche.
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GRAPEFRUIT AND BLACK PEPPER ADAPTED FROM DANIEL PATTERSON Yields 1.1 kg (12 servings)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
For grapefruit-black pepper sorbet:
Sugar 60 g
Pectin LM-104 (CP Kelco 6 g
brand)
Glucose
Sorbitol
Grapefruit juice (fresh)
Salt
Lemonjuice
For grapefruit mousse:
Grapefruit juice
Lemon juice
Ginger essential oil
30g
30g
SOOg
to taste
to taste
41Sg
30g
one drop
Black pepper essential oil three drops
Grapefruit essenti al oil
160 Bloom gelatin
Honey
Sugar
Pink grapefruit
Tarragon, fine julienne
Simple syrup
Cognac
Lemonjuice
from page 4276
four drops
14g
lSg
SOg
one whole
as needed
to taste
to taste
to taste
SCALING PROCEDURE
12% CD Dry blend.
1.2%
6% Combine 100 g of grapefruit juice with the gl ucose, sorbitol, and sugar-pectin mixture.
6% Bring to boil to form syrup, strain through fine chinois, and chi ll over ice.
100%
83%
6%
2.8%
3%
10%
o Combine remaining 400 g of grapefruit juice with chill ed syrup, and season.
Strain through fine sieve, a nd freeze in Pacojet beaker to make grapefruit sorbet.
Combine juices.
(2) Mix in essential oils.
Disperse in cold water.
Combine in pot, and add enough jui ce mixture to cover.
@ Gently warm; add gelatin, stirring until dissolved.
@ C o m b i ~ e with remainingjuice mixture, and chi ll over ice.
@ When completely set, puree in blender until fluid, and pass through fine sieve.
@ Transferto 1 I siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Refrigerate.
@ Cut into supremes. Slice sections on bias in 1 cm I Y, in segments.
@ To serve, season grapefruit segments.
@ Pacotize sorbet once more.
@ Place spoonful of segments in bottom of each bowl.
@ Top with quenelle of sorbet, and cover with mousse.
FOAMS 32 1
THICK FOAMS
CD Select a serving temperature and foaming agents. The table below
suggests multiple formul ati ons for creating cold and hot foams, both
with and without fat.
Disperse and heat t he liquid (not required for cold-soluble solutions).
See the table for appropriate times and temperatures.
o Heat or cool the liquid to serving temperature.
(3) Measure the ingredients carefull y, and combi ne the foaming agent with
the liquid. Set the weight of the li quid to 100%. For example, to make
whi pped caramel, add 1 g of Versa whip and 0.15 g of xanthan gum for
every 100 g of caramel.
To serve, aerate t he mixture wit h an electric whisk or mixer or use a
siphon to expand it. Siphoning does not work well with very thick liquids;
the upper li mit is about the thickness of mayonnaise.
Best Bets forThick, Fine-Textured Foams
Service
Hydrate
Foaming Nitrous oxide
temperature Foaming agents (scaling> (oe) (OF) (min) method charges Example
- - . _- -----_.-
cold 160 Bloom ge lat in 1. 5% 60 140 5 si phon 2-3 thick fruit and vegetable jui ce foams
Versawhip l.00% cold e lectric whisk n/ a shaving cream-like foam, .
xanthan gum 0.15%
whipped carame l
albumin powde r 14% room 20 siphon 2 savory a nd sweet mousses
isomalt or sugar 10%
temp.
pregelatinized 5% 60 140 5 siphon 2 whipped puddings
starch paste
160 Bloom gelatin l.2%
hot and cold low-acyl gell an> 0 .8% 95 203 3 sipho n 2-3 coconut chutney foam,
hot whipped cream
agar' 1.0 % 95 203 3 siphon 3 t hi c k, hot whipped cream;
xantha n gum 0 .2%
hot whipped topping
methylce llul ose F50 l.00% 100 212 5 e lect ri c whisk n/ a eggless sabayo n
xanthan gum 0.15%
Ultra-Sperse 5 4.0 % 80 176 10 siphon 3 potato and other starch foams
iota carrageenan' 0.4%
albumin powder 7.0% room 20 sipho n 1-2 hot whipped cream
xanthan gum 0.2%
temp.
from page 4278 ' (make fluid gel before foaming); "(set weight of liquid to 100%)
CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY ADAPTED FROM HERVE THIS Yields500 g
INGREDIENT
Semisweet chocolate
(50% cocoa), chopped into
small chunks
Water
from page 4281
QUANTITY
300g
200g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
67%
CD Vacuum seal.
(3) Warm sous vide in 50 c / 122 OF bath until
completely melted; reserve.
Pour into bowl set over ice-water bat h.
o Incorporate chocolate into water graduall y wit h
electric whi sk.
Whip at hi gh speed to fo rm dense foam, about
5 min.
@ Refri gerate foam until ready to serve.
The same procedure used here can
also be used to make chanti ll y-style
foams of camembert, fo ie gras,
or butter. For foie gras, use 200 g
of melted foie gras for every 100 g
of water or fl avorful liquid. For
butter, use 100 g of butter and 4 g
of gelatin for every 20 g of water.
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~
do not use with liquids containing fat 327
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200
make fluid gel before foaming; needs source of calcium for 325
- best results; if gellan does not hydrate, see page 4129
~ - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ ~ ~ - - - - - - - - ~ - - ~ - - ~ ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
~ see page 4170 for the hydration procedure
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~ ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
~ reheating base will increase viscosity considerably
do not heat above 60 C / 140 OF
INSTANT SWISS MERINGUE
INGREDIENT
Egg whites
Sugar
QUANTITY
100 g
100 g
SCALING
100%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Beatwhites into sugar.
o Vacuum seal mixture.
Cook sous vide in 74 C / 165 OF bath for 30 min.
@) Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with four cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@) Dispense for use as soft meringues.
Yields150 g
@) To set meringues, dispense on silico ne mat, and bake in 150 C / 300 OF oven for1 0 h.
from page 4284
FOAMS 323
...
EGGPLANT FOAM ADAPTED FROM JOAN ROCA Yields 950 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Italia n eggplant 1 kg
(about two
eggplants)
Charred eggplant puree, SOOg
from above
Heavy cream 2S0g
Albumin powder 2Sg
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1. Sg
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste
fresh sardines, 200g
cleaned and gutted (four fish)
Sumac 10 9
Mint leaves Sg
Olive oil to taste
from page 4280
Baked potato foam is a li ghter
alternative to potato puree. In this
version, we use a broth made with
baking soda to enhance the baked
flavor, but a potato skin infus ion
could be used instead (see page 19).
We use o li ve oi l as a fat in this
recipe, but melted butter could be
substituted.
Hot potato foams were first made
by Ferra n Adria, who made them
with just potato and water. We find
that adding some thickness with
xanthan and a fluid gel improves
the texture. In th is recipe, we use
iota carrageenan, but agar or gell an
would also work here.
SCALING PROCEDURE
200% CD Roast whole at 190 c / 375 OF until charred and thoroughly cooked, about1Y2 h.
o Cut open, and scoop out flesh while sti ll hot. Discard seeds and skin.
Puree flesh, and pass through fine sieve. Measure 500 g of puree.
100% @) Blend.
Strain through fine sieve.
50% Pour into 11 whipping siphon.
5% 0 Warm siphon in 50 C/ 122 OF bath for15 min.
(3.3%) *
0.3%
(0.2%)*
40% Grill for 2 min on each side until just cooked through, and season.
2% Garnish grilled sardines with foam and remaining ingredients.
1%
*(% of total weight of heavy cream and eggplant puree)
BAKED POTATO FOAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Yukon Gold potatoes, 500 g
peeled a nd thinly sli ced
Baked potato broth, cold 150 g
see page19
Iota carrageenan (Genuvisco J, 1.25 g
CP Kelco brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1 g
CP Kelco brand)
Heavy cream
Olive oil
Yukon Gold potato puree,
from above
Salt
from page 4-281
125 g
35 g
250g
to taste
Yields400 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
200%
60%
0.5%
(0.2%)*
0.4%
(0.76%)*
CD Simme r until tender.
o Press through fine tamis.
Measure 250 g of puree, and keep warm.
o Disperse iota carrageenan and xanthan gum into
broth.
Heat mixture to 95 O( / 203 OF, and hold for 3 min
to fully hydrate.
Remove from heat.
50% 0 Blend into warm broth.
14%
100% Fold in cream and broth mixture.
Season.
@ Transferto 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with
one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
@ Hold in 60 c / 140 OF bath until needed.
*(% of total weight of baked potato broth, heavy cream, olive oil, and
prepared potato puree)
HOT BUTTER FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR IA
Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Eggwhites 45 g 18%
(about one
large white)
Eggyolks 35g 14%
(about two yolks)
Unsalted butter, melted 250g 100%
Salt to taste
from page 4283
PROCEDURE
CD Blend unti l smooth, and strain.
o Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 70 O( / 158 OF bath fo r 30 min.
Blend into egg mixture.
o Season.
Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
To serve, warm siphon in 60 O( / 140 OF bath, and dispense foam. Serve with grilled bread or
steamed potatoes.
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COCONUT CHUTNEY fOAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Cilantro leaves 8g
Mint leaves 4g
Green chili (fresh), thinly 2g
sliced
Coconut cream 200g
Coconut milk (stabilizer 200g
free)
Herb puree, from above 20g
Salt to taste
low-acyl gellan 3.4 g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand)
Sodium citrate 0.6g
Water, cold 20g
from page 4282
SCALING PROCEDURE
4%
2%
1%
lOO%
lOO%
lO%
1.7%
(0.8%)*
0.3%
10%
CD Puree'herbs in food processor to fine paste.
(3) Pass through fine sieve.
Measure lO g of herb puree.
o Blend.
Season coconut herb cream.
Combine.
CD Disperse gell an mixture in water.
Whisk gell an water into herb cream to fo rm foam base.
Bring to simmer while blending to fully hydrate.
@ Remove from heat, and pourfoam base into mold.
@ Refrigerate until fully set, about lO min.
@ Blend set gel to fine puree ..
@ Place in siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
@ Warmsiphon in 60 c / 140 OF bat h for 15 min, and serve.
*(% of total weight of coconut cream, herb puree, and water)
SUET MOUSSELINE (THICK)
INGREDIENT
White beef stock
see page 6
White wine (dry)
Shallot, finely minced
White wine vinegar
Black pepper
Wine reduction,
from above
Heavy cream, cold
low-acyl gellan
(Kelcogel F brand)
Egg yolks, cooked so us
vide in 62 C / 144 F bath
for35 min
Rendered beef suet,
vacuum-sealed
lemon juice
Salt
from page 58
QUANTITY
350g
250g
SSg
35g
0.7 g
75g
50g
1.2g
90g
200g
to taste
to taste
SCALING
100%
71%
16%
lO%
0.2%
21%
14.5%
0.3%
(0.3%)'
26%
57%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, and reduce to 100 g.
(3) Strain.
Cool.
o Measure 75 g.
Disperse gell an in cream.
Blend thicke ned cream with wine reduction.
CD Vacuum seal.
Hydrate in 85 C / 185 OF bath for 5 min.
Cool until set. Puree to fluid gel.
@ Blend with fluid gel.
@ Warm fluid gel mixture and suet separately in 62 C / 144 OF bath.
@ Blend warm suet into fluid ge l until fully emulsifi ed .
@ Season mixture generously.
@ Pour into 1 I siphon, and charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges.
@) Hold in 62 C / 144 OF bath until use.
'(% of tot 01 weight ofheavy cream, wine reduction, egg yolks, and beefsuet)
fOAMS
Yields400g
Yields300 g
325
DAIRY-FREE WHIPPED CREAM
Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water, or flavorful liquid 200 g
Cellulose gum (CekollVD, 1 g
CP Kelco brand)
Propylene glycol alginate 0.8 g
(Protanal Ester BV 4104,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Agar{Texturas brand) 0.4 g
Neutral oil, or any 60 g
flavored oil or fat
Glice (Texturas brand) 4.2 g
or glycerin flakes
(Terraspice brand)
from page 4283
CAULIFLOWER FOAM
INGREDIENT
Whole milk
Caulifl ower trimmings
Water
Cauliflower, t hinly sli ced
Clarified brown butter
QUANTITY
375 g
300g
175g
500 g
20g
Cocoa butter (food grade) 15 g
Cauliflower milk, cold 400g
from above
low-acyl gellan 19
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand)
locust bean gum OAg
(TIC Gums brand)
Browned cauliflower 25g
puree, from above
Salt to taste
fro m page 5283
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
0.5%
004%
0.2%
30%
@ Dry blend powders, and di sperse in cold water.
(3) Bri ngto boil for1 min to fully hydrate.
Remove from heat, and bl end over ice until set.
0) Puree until smooth to make fluid gel.
Combine, and heatto 65 C/ 105 OF to di ssolve flakes.
2.1%
Slowly drizzle warm o il mixture into fluid gel, blending constantly, until fully emulsified.
o Cool completely, and pour mixt ure into 11 whipping siphon.
Simmer for 2 min, and remove from heat. Cool.
Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate until use.
SCALING PROCEDURE
94% @ Simmer together for 20 min.
75% (3) Re move from heat, and infuse at room temperature for45 min.
44% Strain.
125%
5%
4%
100%
0.25%
0.1%
6.3%
0) Measure 400 g of caul iflower milk, and refri gerate.
Brown cauli flower sli ces in butters until very dark and nutty aroma is released.
Puree, and pass through fine sieve.
o Measure 50 g of pu ree, and reserve.
Disperse gums in caulifl ower milk.
Heat to 95 C / 203 OF, and hold at tempe rature for 3 min to full y hydrate.
@ Refrigerate until gel is set, about 5 min.
@ Puree with gell ed cauliflower milk until smooth.
@ Season pureed mixture.
@ l oad mi xture into siphon, and warm in 70 C/ 158 OF water bath for 15 min.
@ Charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges, shake vigorously, and dispense to serve.
Yields450 g
FRIED EGG FOAM Yields220g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Eggwhites 60g
Grapeseed oi l 30g
Heavy cream, cold 130 g
160 Bloom gelatin 2Ag
Black pepper, ground to taste
to fine powder
Salt to taste
from page 5212
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% @ Fry egg wh ites unt il golden brown.
50% (3) Drain oi l, pat dry, and reserve.
217% Disperse gelatin in cream.
4% 0) Bring to si mmer to dissolve gelatin fully.
Bl e nd in fried egg wh ites.
Season egg and cream mixture.
o Press through fine sieve, and transferto 11 wh ipping siphon.
Charge egg cream-fi ll ed Siphon with two nitrous oxi de cartridges.
Warm siphon in 62 C/ 144 OF bath, about15 min.
@ Shake siphon thoroughly, and d ispense to serve.
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HORSERADISH FOAM INSPIRED BY WYLIE DUFRES NE Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 400g
Fresh horseradish, 150g
finely grated
Horseradish water, 400g
from above
Methylcellulose F50 4g
(Dow brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.6g
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste
from page 4284
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Blend.
37.5% (3) Strain.
100%
1%
0.15%
Bring water to boil.
o Dispe rse methylcellulose and xanthan gum in boi ling water.
Simmer for 2 min, and remove from heat. Cool.
Vacuum seal. Refrigerate fo r at least 6 h to fully hydrate.
(2) Transfer to metal bowl.
Season, and set bowl over pot of simmering water.
Whip foam base with e lectric whisk until soft peaks form.
@ Serve with ri b roast or Boeuf e n Gelee.
OYSTERS WITH CAVA FOAM ADAPTED FROM JOAN ROCA Yields 700 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT
Cava or other sparkling
dry white wine
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Applejuice
Agar(Texturas brand)
Kusshi oysters
Candied lemon peel
(store-bought)
Crystallized ginger,
brunoise
Fresh pineapple,
brunoise
QUANTITY
400 g
1.6g
100 g
1 g
20 oysters
four cubes
e ight pi eces
eight pi eces
Cumin seeds, ground fine 0.4 g
Pain d'epices spice 0.4 g
powde r
see pageS1
from page 4277
SCALING
100%
0.4%
25%
0.25%
(7%)*
0.1%
0.1%
PROCEDURE
o Shear gum into wine.
o Transfer to 11 whipping siphon.
Charge siphon with one cartridge of carbon di oxide, and seal.
o Refri gerate.
Disperse agar in juice.
Bringjuice to boil.
(2) Remove from heat, and cool until gell ed.
Puree ge l until completely fluid.
Shuck and rinse.
@ Di vi de equall y among four bowls.
@ Garnish each bowl wit h dab of appl e fluid gel, o ne cube of lemon peel, two pieces of ginger
di ce, and two pi eces of pineapple di ce.
@ Season.
@ Dispense cava foam at table.
*(% of weight ofopple juice)
BARBECUED EEL WITH WHIPPED CARAMEL Yields450 g
ADAPTED FROM WYLI E DUFRES NE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 100g
Sugar 100 g
Water 300g
Versawhip 600 (Kerry 3g
Bioscience brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.45g
CP Kelco brand)
Barbecued eel 200 g
(store-bought)
from page 4283
SCALING
100%
100%
300 %
3%
0.45%
200%
PROCEDURE
o Cook togethe r to 143 ' c / 290 ' f.
(3) Cool and refrigerate.
Deglaze caramel, and sti rto dissolve. Reserve 300 g of caramel water, and chi ll.
o Disperse powders into reserved cold caramel water, and blend until fully incorporated.
Whip with electric whisk unti l stiff, beer-head-like foam is achi eved.
Broil for 2 min, skin side down.
(2) Arrange on plates, and garnish with wh ipped caramel.
FO AMS 327
UNI WITH WHIPPED TOFU AND TAPIOCA ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG
Yields 3.85 kg (20 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Softtofu 1.25 kg
Water 450g
Yuzu jui ce 80g
Sugar 20g
Yuzu kosho 15 g
Salt 10 g
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 9g
CP Kelco brand)
Bonito flakes 20g
(kats uobushi)
Eggyolk powder 20g
Nori powder 20g
Puffed rice 20g
Shrimp cracker puffs, 20g
crumbl ed
Toasted sesame seeds 20g
Black tapioca pearls 1.25 kg
Apple juice (Mott's) 150g
Elderflower syrup 100 g
Santa Barbara sea urchin 400g
(uni) tongues
from page 4285
SCALING
313%
113%
20%
5%
4%
2.5%
2.25%
(0.5%)*
PROCEDURE
o Puree together until smooth.
Pass through fine sieve.
Blend into tofu base until fully dispersed.
o Pour mixture into 11 whipping siphon.
Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@) Reserve refrigerated.
5% 0 Toss together to make furikake (Japanese mi xed seasoning).
5%
5%
5%
5%
5%
313% Combine, and bring to simmer.
37.5% Cool.
25% @ Place spoonful of tapioca pearls in bottom of each bowl.
@ Dispense large spoonful of whipped tofu onto each portion.
100% @ Add three tongues to each bowl.
@ Garnis h with furikake.
*(% of total weightoffirst six ingredients)
CHESTNUT CREAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALI NG PROCEDURE
Yields300 g
Whole milk, cold 150 g 150% o Disperse iota carrageenan and gum over milk.
Iota carrageenan 0.6g
Konjacgum 0.3g
(TIC Gums brand)
Chestnut puree 100 g
(store-bought)
Heavy cream 25g
Roasted hazelnut o il 15g
Sugar 15g
Water 10 9
Salt 2g
from page 521
0.6%
(0.2%)*
0.3%
(0.1%)'
100%
25%
15%
15%
10%
2%
Ble nd wit h milk solution.
Vacuum seal.
o Place in 80 c 1175 OF bath, and hold for 5 min to
hydrate iota carrageenan.
Pour in to mold, and refrigerate until set, about 10 min.
@) Puree gel until fluid .
o Fill11 siphon with fluid gel.
Charge chestnut cream-filled siphon with two nitrous
oxide cartridges, and reheat in 70 C/ 158 OF bath for
15min.
*(% of total weight of all ingredients)
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WHIPPED BUTTER Yieldsl kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
4 kg 400% CD Transfer to bowl of electric mixer. Heavy cream
(without stabilizers)
Whisk on high until fat is totally separated from liquid and small gran ul es of butter begin to
Sweet butter, from above 1 kg
or store-bought
Lactic acid 1.5 g
Delta decalactone O.lg
(SAFC brand)
Salt 15 g
from page 4286
100%
0.15%
0.01%
1.5%
form, aboutl0 min.
Strain mixture through cheesecloth, discarding liquid.
@) Wring cheesecloth tightly to remove any remaining moisture from butter.
Measure 1 kg of sweet butte r.
o Whisk into soft butter.
(2) Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 24 h to mature butter flavor.
To serve, warm butter to 40 c / 104 OF until fluid but not broken.
Pour into 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@ Dispense to serve.
Whether you make your own butter or use store-bought butter, this
incredible butter foam provides the essential taste of butter in a much
li ghter context. It may be held at 40 C / 104 OF and foamed to order.
YOGURT FOAM AND SWEET POTATO CHIPS
(HOMAGE TO AMER I CAN SCULPTOR RICHARD SERRA)
ADAPTED FROM JOSE ANDRES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
160 Bloom gelatin 4 g
Heavy cream 150 g
Full-fat Greek-style 350 g
strained yogurt
Sweet potatoes, peeled 200 g
Frying oil as needed
Salt to taste
Tamarind paste 100 g
see page 145
Clear honey 40 g
Star anise powder 0.2 g
SCALING
1.1%
43%
100%
57%
28.5%
11 .5%
0.05%
PROCEDURE
CD Bloom in cold wate r.
Heat 50 g of cream.
Add gelatin to dissolve.
@) Blend with gelat in mixture and 100 g of remaining cream.
Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
o Refrigerate for at least 4 h.
(2) Slice potatoes into sheets 1 mm /!l' in th ick o n Japanese rotary slicer.
Deep-fry in 190 c / 375 OF oi l until crisp and golden, about 3 min.
Season chips, and reserve.
@ Blend well to form syrup, and transfer to sq ueeze bottle.
@ Dispense yogurt foam into serving bowls.
Drizzle syrup over foam, and serve with sweet potato chips on side.
~ from page 4287
...
-- ...
--
fOAMS
Yields500 g
329
!!II
SET FOAMS
CD Select bubble size and foam temperature. The table Best Bets for Set
Foams below offers multiple options for foams to be served cold or hot,
with or without fat.
(3) Measure ingredients carefully, and disperse the foaming agents in the
liquid. Set the weight of the liquid to 100%. For example, to make passion
fruit marshmall ows, add 6.25 g of160 Bloom gelatin and 2.5 g of albumin
powder for every100 g of passion fru it base.
Best Bets for Set Foams
Hydrate, using the time and temperat ure given (not required
for cold-soluble foaming agents).
o Cool liquid completely.
Aerate with an electric whisk or mixture, or expand by using
a 11 whipping siphon, as indicated.
Heat or chi ll the foam to set its structure. Setting methods,
temperatures, and times are listed in the table.
Serving temperature
Hydrate Set
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( or) (OF) (h)
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cold, fine
hot and cold, fine
hot and cold, coarse
from page 4288
160 Bloom gelatin 3.00%
xanthan gum 0.25%
160 Bloom gelat in 4.0%
albumin powder 10%
heavy cream 200%
egg yolk at 65 C / 148 of 30%
albumin powder 5%
160 Bloom gelatin 3%
xanthan gum 0.25%
albumin powder 18.0%
glucose, syrup DE 40 16.5%
maltodextrin DE 19 5.0%
60 140 5 electric whisk
60 140 5 stand mixer
refrigerator
refrigerator 3
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cartridges of nitrous
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refrigerator 4
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xanthan gum 0.3%
egg white 100.0% n/a 'C:1t::\,..1.. 1 I\.. VV'C: I I
lemon juice 10%
salt l.3%
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albumin powder 14.0% cold-soluble
Maltrin M100 17.5%
egg yolk 27.0%
tartaric acid 0.2%
egg white 104.0% cold-soluble
nut butter 100.0%
egg yolk 67.0%
sugar or isomalt 67.0%
all-purpose flour 16.7%
160 Bloom gelatin 2.8% 100 212 5
methyl cellulose F50 1.4%
*(setweightofliquidto 100%)
electric whisk steam oven
siphon with two microwave
cartridges of nitrous
oxide into perforated
paper cup
electric whisk blowtorch or
broiler
78 172 16 min
full power 1 min
high heat 1 min
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gelatin sponges, soy sauce keep liquid very cold when whipping 339
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delicate marshmallow,
passion fruit marshmallow
cool before whisking with albumin powder
savory parfaits and mousses best cast directly in serving vessel
next
very light savory meringues, vacuum at19 mbar / 0.28 psi; meringue base can 339
green olive meringue also be dehydrated or baked
blanc manger
light souffles
pistachio sponge cake
ideal pH around 8.7; add more acid to older egg
whites
whip albumin and water with tartaric acid, and
then fold in remaining ingredients
335
338
allow batter to rest for 1 h, refrigerated, before 333
using; the container in which the sponge is cooked
must have bottom ventilation
hot apricot marshmallow best used with fruit or vegetable purees; use same 334
day; see page 4170 for details on methylcellulose


FOAMS 331
PASSION FRUIT MARSHMALLOW WITH CHORIZO POWDER Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Chorizo (dry cured), 300g
very thinly sl iced
N-ZorbitM sOg
(National Starch brand)
160 Bloom gelatin 8g
Passion fruit juice 200g
Fructose 7sg
Albumin powder 20g
from page 4290
SCALING
150%
25%
(16.7%)'
4%
100%
37.5%
10%
PROCEDURE
o Place in even layer on dehydrator tray.
@) Dehydrateatss
O
C/ 131 ffor12h.
Pat off any excess oil.
o Add to dried chorizo, and grind to fine powder.
Disperse gelat in into juice.
Heat jui ce and sugar to 60 C/ 140 Of until gelat in and sugar dissolve.
o Remove from heat.
Cool completely.
Whisk into cooled passion fruit jui ce mixture.
@ Whip until stiff peaks form, about 10 min.
@ Cast in 2.5 cm 11 in layer on nonstick mold.
Refrigerate until fully set, about 4 h.
@) Cut resulting marshmallow into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.
@ Toss cubes in chorizo powder to serve.
*(% a/total weighto/chorizo)
CRYOPOACHED GREEN TEA SOUR ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yieldsl kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sugar 124 g
HM pectin (Brown Ribbon 11 g
HV, Obipektin brand)
Water
Limejuice
Gunpowdertea
Matcha green tea
powder
Egg whites
Vodka
710 g
133g
21 g
1.5 g
100 g
sOg
Matcha green tea powder as needed
from page 4291
SCALING PROCEDURE
17.5%
1.5%
100%
19%
3%
0.2%
14%
7%
o Combine.
@) Pass through tam is.
Reserve sugar mi xt ure.
o Combine, and add sugar mixture.
Hand-blend until sugar is completely incorporated.
Bring to boil while whisking.
o Pass through chinois.
Chi ll over ice to 4 c 1 39 Of.
Add to chilled mi xtu re.
@ Refrigerate infusion for 2 h.
@ Pass through chinois lined with double layer of cheesecloth or 70 micron sieve.
Blend into tea infusion.
@) Pass through chinois to remove any lumps.
@ Whisk into infusion to make meringue base.
@ Transfer meringue base to 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous
dioxide. Store refrigerated.
@ Tose rve, di spense small ball of meringue base onto spoon; transfer to Dewarfl ask filled with
li quid nitrogen.
@ Poach, turning meringue constantly until frozen on outside but still soft inside, about 30 s.
@ Dust over frozen meringue, and serve immediately.
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WHIPPED YOGURT CRISPS ADAPTED FROM AKI KAMOZAWA AND H. ALEXANDER TALBOT Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Full-fat Greek-style 480g
strained yogurt
Water 270g
Water 300g
Isomalt 50g
Maltrin M100 (GPC brand) 25 g
Salt 5 g
Methocel K100 11.3 g
(Dow brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 2.26 g
CP Kelco brand)
from page 4292
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Whi sk together until yogurt is completely incorporated.
o Set aside yogurt base.
56.25%
62.5% Bring water to simmer.
10.4% 0 Stir in isomalt, Maltrin M100, and salt until dissolved.
5.2%
1%
2.35%
(7.08%)*
0.47%
(0.22%)*
Whisk into water unti l fully incorporated.
@) Remove from heat, and add to yogurt base, from above.
(2) Cool in bowl set ove r ice-water bath .
Place bowl over hot water bath, and whip cooled mi xture until consistency resembles
whipped egg white meringue.
Transfer to pastry bag .
@ Pipe desired sizes onto tray lined with silicone mat.
@ Dehydrate in 95 C / 205 OF oven until crisp, about 1 h.
*(% of total weight offirst three ingredients)
GREEN TEA CAKE ADAPTED FROM JOHN NY IU ZZ I NI Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sugar or isomalt, 150 g
powdered
Unsalted butter 85g
Eggs, blended 150g
Vanilla seeds and pulp, 19
scraped from pod
Water 155g
Skim milk powder 20g
Methocel SGA 7C 3.5 g
(Dow brand)
Cake flour 150 g
Matcha green tea powder 8 g
Salt 4.5 g
from page 4292
SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
57%
100%
0.67%
103%
13.3%
2.3%
(2%)*
100%
5.3%
3%
CD Blend until creamy.
o Whisk into suga r mi xture until smooth.
Add.
o Combine water and mi lk powder.
Heat to boiling whi le whisking constantly.
@) Pour hot milk into blender.
(2) Blend into hot milk.
Chill milk over ice-water bath.
Add milk to bl ended sugar, butter, eggs, and vanilla seeds.
@ Combin e, and sift together.
@ Fold into liquid ingredients to form batter.
@ Load batter into 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@ Dispense into perforated paper cups.
@ Microwave on hi gh for 1 min to cook through.
@ Un mold and serve.
*(% of total weight afwater and milk powder)
MICROWAVED PISTACHIO SPONGE CAKE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR I A Yields800g
INGREDIENT
Eggwhites
Green pistachio butter
see page 54
Eggyolks
Sugar or isomalt
All-purpose flour
from page 4294
QUANTITY
250g
240g
160g
160g
40g
SCALING
104%
100%
67%
67%
16.7%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until smooth.
o Refrigerate for 2 h to rest.
Strain.
o Transfer cake base to 11 wh ipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
Perforate bottoms of10 paper cups to all ow for air circulation.
@) Dispense cake base into cups, filling each about half full.
(2) Microwave each cup separately at 900 W for 50 s.
fOAMS 333

HOT APRICOT MARSHMALLOW INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA
Yields: 250 g
INGREDIENT
Apricot puree
see page217
Methocel F50
(Dow brand)
160 Bloom gelatin
Olive oil
Jasmine essential oil
Dried apricots, finely
diced
QUANTITY
250g
3.5g
7g
100g
19
40g
Marcona almonds, finely 20 g
chopped
Chives, finely minced 5g
Lemon balm leaves 5g
from page 4293
HAMBURGER BUN
INGREDIENT
For the sponge:
White Lily bread flour
Water(5 ' C / 41 ' F)
Yeast (fresh)
Forthe dough:
White Lily bread flour
Water(30 ' ( / 86 ' F)
Yeast (fresh)
Sponge, from above
Sugar
Eggyolks
Vegetable shortening
Salt
Vanilla extract
Lemon essential oil
L-cysteine
Whole milk
Black onion seeds
Black poppy seeds,
toasted
Black sesame seeds,
toasted
Rendered beef suet
from page 512
QUANTITY
310g
189g
2g
480g
270g
9.5g
120g
72g
50g
25g
9.5g
0.5g
(two drops)
0.2g
(one drop)
0.04g
as needed
as needed
as needed
as needed
40g
SCALING
100%
1.4%
2.8%
40%
0.4%
16%
8%
2%
2%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine methyl cellulose with 200 g of apricot puree. Set aside remain ing 50 g puree.
(1) Bring to boil, and hold for 2 min to fully disperse.
Cool completely.
o Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for 12 h to hydrate methyl cellulose.
Disperse gelatin in remaining 50 g of apricot puree.
e?) Simmer to dissolve.
Combine with Methocel mixture.
Whip with e lectric whisk for 7 min, until light and airy.
@ Transferto pastry bag.
@ Pipe small mounds onto center of ovenproof plates.
@ Cover plates with plastic wrap.
@ Refrigerate until set, about 4 h.
@ Remove plastic wrap.
@ Combine.
@ Bake apricot marshmallows at 120 ' C / 250 ' F for 3 min.
@) Garnish.
@ Drizzle a littl e infused olive oil over each meringue, and serve.
Yields 12 buns
SCALING PROCEDURE
65% CD Mix together on low speed, using paddle attachme nt, for 8 min.
40% (1) Cover tightly, and refrigerate for 24-48 h.
0.4%
100%
56%
2%
25%
15%
10%
5%
2%
0.1 %
0.04%
0.01%
8.5%
Mix together flour and water on low speed for 4 min.
o Stop mixer, and cover bowl with hot, wet cloth fo r 45 min.
Mix into flour mixture.
Add to flour mixture, and mix on medium speed for 4 min.
e?) Ferment dough, covered, at room temperature for 1 h.
Form into twelve 90 g balls.
Arrange balls into 11 cm / 4',4 in ring mold.
@ Proof in 40 ' C/ 104 OF combi oven with 85% relative humidity until dough has expanded to fill
ring, about 1'/2 h. If proofing cabin et is unavailable, cover with oiled plastic wrap and keep in
warm place until proofed, at least 1 V2 h.
@ Press gently o n proofed buns to flatten.
@ Brush bun tops lightl y.
@ Combine, and sprinkl e on bun tops.
@ Bake in 260 ' ( / 500 ' F oven for 6 min, and cool to room temperature.
@ Cut buns in half, and fry in suet until crisp and golden.
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BEET MERINGUE ADAPTED
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Beet juice 120g
see page 2-336
(from about
250 g of beets)
Isomalt 24g
Albumin powder 15g
Ascorbic acid l.2g
Salt to taste
Spray-dried yogurt 15 g
powder
see page 2438, or store-bought
Citric acid
19
from page 4295
STEAMED BLANCMANGE
INGREDIENT
Eggwhites
Lemonjuice
Salt
Chives, finely minced
Black pepper, crushed
Unsalted butter,
room temperature
Egg yolks, whole
Sauce vin jaune
see page308
from page 4296
QUANTITY
120 g
12 g
2g
4g
0.8 g
as needed
fo ur whole
120g
FROM FERRAN ADRI A Yields100 g
SCALING
100%
20%
12.5%
1%
12.5%
0.8%
ADAPTED
SCALING
100%
10%
1.7%
3.3%
0.67%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
0 Skimtop.
Cool compl etely.
o Blend first three ingredients into cooled juice.
Season with salt.
Refrigerate fo r12 h to rehydrate.
(2) Whip re hyd rated meringue base unti l stiff.
Pipe meringue base into mold, 5 cm / 2 in high.
Dehydrate in 90 ' C / 195 ' F oven for 2 h.
@ Cut into desired shapes.
@ Reserve in cool, dry place.
@ Combine.
@ Dust over me ringues before serving.
FROM J EAN-FRAN<;:O IS P I EGE
PROCEDURE
CD Whip together until stiff peaks form.
o Fold in gently.
Transfer to pas try bag.
o Grease fourlO cm / 4 in metal ring molds li ghtl y.
Pipe egg whi te mi xtu re into molds, filling each ha lfway full.
Yi e lds 200 g (four portions)
Press down in center of molds with back of wet spoon, making small depressions.
(2) Add one yolk to center of each mold.
Fill molds with remaining egg white mi xt ure, covering yolks.
Scrape off tops of each bl ancmange with offset spatula to flatten.
@ Flash sides li ghtly wit h blowtorch to t ighte n structure .
@) Brush plast ic wrap with butte r, and cover each blancmange.
@ Steam in 75 ' C / 165 ' F combi oven for 14 min.
@) Let rest in molds at room temperature for 2 min.
Transfer to serving plates .
@ Warm sauce and pour over each blancmange at table.
fOAMS 335
CH ESTN UT PU FFS
INGREDIENT
Whole milk
300 Bloom gelatin
Unsalted butter
Rendered bacon fat
Salt
All -purpose flour
Eggs
Chestnut puree
(store-bought)
Fryingoi l
QUANTITY
160g
109
45g
109
2.5g
100g
150g
30g
as needed
Chestnut cream, warmed 30 g
see page 328
Pain d'epices powder
see pageSl
from page 520
as needed
White Lily brand flour is milled
from soft wheat. If unavailable,
substitute another soft wheat flour
ora pastry flour. If you use all -
purpose fl our, yo u may need to
increase the amount of li quid
sl ightly.
336
SCALING
160%
10%
45%
10%
2.5%
100%
150%
30%
30%
Yields430g
PROCEDURE
CD Disperse gelat in over cold milk.
(3) Add to mil k.
Bringto boil.
@) Add to boiling liquid all at once.
Stir over medium heat until dough forms into ball and film develops on the inside of pot, about
2min.
Transfer to stand mi xer.
(2) Incorporate eggs, one at a time, followed by puree.
Cast into mold in layer1.5 cm / % in thick.
Set for at least 3 h.
@ Cut into 1. 5 cm / % in cubes.
@ Bake cubes in 200 C/ 390 OF oven for 10 min.
Deep-fry chestnut puffs in 185 C / 365 OF o il for 4 min.
@ Transferto paper towel- lined baking sheet.
@ Fill each puffwith chestnut cream by using an inj ection attachment on a siphon to pi erce puff.
@ Dust each puff with pain d'epices powder.
BUTTERMILK BISCUITS Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Whi te Lily biscuit flour 300g 100%
Baking powder 13.5 g 4.5%
Sugar 12g 4%
Salt 3g 1%
Unsalted butter 115g 38%
Liquid nit rogen (optional) as needed
Heavy cream 115 g 38%
Creme fraiche 70g 25%
Egg, bl ended 30g 10%
from page 577
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
PROCEDURE
CD Mix together.
(3) Sift and reserve.
Freeze butter, or optionally, use liquid nitrogen.
@) Pulse froze n butter in food processor until round ball s
form,3 mm /li in. in di ameter.
Toss ball s into sifted flour, and rese rve.
Mix toget her.
(2) Drizzle over reserved flour mixture.
Mix very li ghtly unt il wet dough fo rms.
Place dough on pl astic wrap.
@ Roll into log 8 cm / 314 in. in diamete r, and then wrap
in pl astic.
@ Freeze partially.
Cut into round slices 2 cm / V. in thick.
@ Place sl ices o n baking sheet lined with floured silicone
mat.
@ Bake in 200 C / 390 OF oven until golden on top,
about5 min.
@ Serve warm with caramelized creme fraiche
(see page 203).
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RYE BREAD ADAPTED FROM HORST BANDEL
Yields 1.25 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
For the old rye bread soaker:
Water, hot 870g
Day-old rye bread 450g
loaf (homemade
or store-bought)
For the sourdough starter:
Bread flour 200g
Water, 18 ' C/ 65 ' F 100 g
Rye flour 75g
Barley malt
109
Yeast (fresh) 5g
For the cooked rye berries:
Water 1 kg
Rye berries, 250g
soaked for12 h
For the rye molasses meal :
Old rye bread soaker, 180g
from above
Blackstrap molasses 36g
Sourdough starter, 20g
from above
Water 360g
Yeast (fresh) 6g
Rye molasses meal, 236g
from above
High-gluten flour 224g
Rye chops 224g
(chopped rye berries)
Cooked rye berries, 180g
from above
Salt 12.2 g
Sesame seeds as needed
Sprouted flaxseeds as needed
Sunflower seeds as needed
Rendered beef marrow 90g
from page 559
SCALING PROCEDURE
483% CD Combine and cool to room temperature.
250%
111%
56%
42%
5.5%
2.8%
555%
139%
100%
20%
11%
200%
3.3%
131%
125%
125%
100%
6.8%
50%
o Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for 12 h.
o Squeeze out water.
Reserve fo r rye dough.
Mix together.
o Ripen at 21 ' c / 70 ' F for10-12 h.
Measure 20 g of starter for rye dough.
Vacuum seal together.
@ Cook so us vide in 90 ' C / 194 ' F bath for 5 h.
@ Drain.
@ Measure 180 g of cooked rye berri es.
@ Combine in bowl.
e Mix on medium speed with paddle attachment until mealy, about 2 min.
@ Reserve rye molasses meal.
@ Combine in bowl.
@ Mix on low speed with paddle attach ment fo r 10 min. Mixture should look sticky but not wet.
@ Ferment for 30 min at 25- 30 ' C / 77-86 ' F.
@ Transferdough to cast- iron mold.
@ Ferment for 1 h at 25- 30 ' C / 77- 86 ' F.
@ Sprinkle seeds over fermented dough in mold.
@ pl ace uncovered mold on cente r rack of220 ' C / 425 ' F oven, and bake for 10 min.
@ Cover mold, and bake to core temperature of99 ' C/ 210 ' F, about30 min.
@ Remove cover, and let rest in mold at room temperature for at least 2 h .
@ Cut bread into 3.5 cm / 1 'h in wedges.
@ Toastwedges in beef marrow fat in nonstick frying pan until golden and crisp, about 2 min on
first side and 1 V2 min on second side.
FOAMS
337
MOROCCAN BATBOUT FLATBREAD Yields 725 g
INGREDIENT
Water, lukewarm
Active dry yeast
All-purpose flour
Fine semolina flour
Salt
Turmeric, peeled and
fi nely grated
Golden oregano,
finely minced
Fryingoil
from page 5139
QUANTITY
320g
7g
300g
100g
Bg
4g
1.5 g
as needed
For a cheese version of the souffle,
add 54 g (54%) of grated Gruyere
cheese, and dissolve itwith 0.4%
sodium citrate in the warm milk.
Cool completely, and proceed
with the remaining instructions.
Use only 1.B g (1.8%) of salt.
For a chocolate version of the
souffle, replace corn starch with
7 g (7%) tapioca starch, whisk 39 g
(39%) of grated semisweet choco-
late into the warm milk, and omit
th e Maltrin, PGA, and 1.8 g of the
salt. Cool completely, and proceed
with instructions.
So us vide cooking time of eggs
wi ll vary according to the size of
the batch.
338
SCALING
107%
2.3%
100%
33%
2.7%
1.3%
0.5%
PROCEDURE
CD Sprinkle yeast over water, and stir to d issolve.
(3) Let rest for 5 min.
Mix with yeast mi xt ure.
o Knead dough for 10 min.
Divide into three e qual portions.
@ Let rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, about1 h.
o Flatte n portions into discs 1 cm / % in th ick.
Garnish with herbs.
Refrigerate for up to 4 h.
@ Panfry discs on li ghtly oiled griddle or pan until cooked through and golden, about 2 min on
each side.
SIPHONED SOUFFLE A LA LORRAINE Yields 200 g (four individual souffles)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Whole milk 150g 150%
Bacon, rendered and 100 g 100%
drained
Sweet onions, thinly 40g 40 %
sliced
Eggwhites 100 g 100%
Infused milk, from above 78g 78%
Eggyolks 20g 20%
Unsalted butter, melted 14 g 14%
Salt 3.6g 3.6%
Sugar 1.1 g 1.1%
Corn starch 13.5 g 13.5%
Propyl e ne glycol alginate 0.31 g 0.31%
(Propanal Ester BV, FMC
BiOPolymer brand)
Maltrin M100 3.1 g 3.1%
(GPCbrand)
Cream of tartar O.7g 0.7%
from page 4297
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together, and cook sous vide in 90 'C/
194 'F bath forlY2 h.
(3) Remove from bag, and strain; meas ure 78 g of milk,
and cool.
Combine with infused milk, and bl end until smooth.
o Cook sous vide in 7B ' C/ l72 ' F bath for30 min.
Dust sugar over egg yolks, and let stand for 20 min at
room temperature.
@ Blend whites, salt, butte r and infused milk wit h sugar
dusted egg yolks until smooth, and cook so us vide in
78 ' C / 172 ' F bath for 30 min to make egg base.
o Dry bl e nd, and whisk into cooked egg base until
dispersed evenly.
Pour into 11 whipping siphon, and hold in 55 'C /
131 ' F bath until ready to bake.
To bake, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide
and shake well.
@ Line the sides offour ramekins with parchment
collars.
@ Brush inside of rame kins with oil or melted butter, and
dust with flour.
@ Dispense souffle base two-thirds up sides of
ramekins.
@ Put in oven pan, and fil l pan with enough water to
cover bottom halves of ramekins.
@ Bake in 190 'C / 375 ' F oven for 20 min.
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GREEN OLIVE MERINGUE I NSP IRED BY PIERRE GAGNAIRE Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Green olives, pitted, bulk 900 g
Water 500g
Green olive juice, from 300g
above
Albumin powder 54 g
Glucose syrup DE 40 50g
Maltrin M100 15g
(GPC brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.9g
CP Kelco brand)
Green olives, pitted 100g
N-ZorbitM 40g
(National Starch brand)
Salt to taste
Extra-virgi n olive oil 30g
from page 4298
SCALING PROCEDURE
300%
167%
o Blend to fine puree.
(3) Strain through cheesecloth to extract jui ce.
Measure 300 g of juice.
100% 0 Whisk together.
18%
16.5%
5%
(3.7%) *
0.3%
(O.2%)*
33%
13.3%
10%
Fold into olive juice mixture.
Whip in stand mi xer until dense foam forms, about 5 min.
o Pipe 5 cm / 2 in spheres of green o li ve meringue onto si li cone baking mat.
If avai lable, bake in 60 c / 140 of vacuum ove n at19 mbar / 0.275 psi for 2 h.
Otherwise, bake in 77 C / 170 OF oven for 8 h, or 150 C / 300 OF oven for lV, h.
@) Dehydrate at 55 C / 131 of for 12 h.
@ Grind to fin e powde r in food processor.
@ Whisk into powde r.
@ Season.
@ Whisk slowly into powder until full y incorporated.
@ Dust over meringues to serve.
*(% of total weight of green olive juice, albumin powder, and glucose)
SOY SAUCE CLOUD ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yi elds200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water, cold 100 g
160 Bloom gelatin 6g
Soy sauce 100 g
Xanthan gum (Xantana, 0.5g
Texturas brand)
from page 4299
SCALING
100%
6%
(3%)*
100%
0. 5%
(O.25%)*
PROCEDURE
o Place e mpty stand mi xer bowl or stainless stee l bowl in freezer for 25 min.
(3) Hydrate gelatin in water.
Bring water to simme r until gelatin is just dissolved.
o Cool quickly. Do not allow gelatin to set.
Combine, and whi sk into gelatin mi xture.
Pl ace in freezer-chill ed bowl.
o Whip with electric wh isk attachment o r handheld automatic whisk until liquid becomes very
de nse and forms ti ght foam, abo ut 15 min.
Cast foam into nonst ick mold, 1.5 cm / % in thick.
Freeze mold fo r 2 min to firm.
@) Transferto refri gerator, and chill at least 2 h before using.
@ Cut into desire d shapes, and serve as garnish for foi e gras or monkfish liverterrine.
* (% of total weight of water and soy sauce)
FOA MS
339
FREEZE-DRIED CARROT FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA
Yields200 g
INGREDIENT
160 Bloom gelatin
Carrot juice
see page 2336
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Honey
Sugar
Unsalted butter
Honey caramel, from
above
QUANTITY
15g
500g
(from 800 g
carrots)
1 g
200g
180 g
50g
210 g
N-ZorbitM 65g
(National Starch brand)
Freeze-dried mint powder 5 g
see page188
from page 4300
GRUYERE SOUFFLE
INGREDIENT
Water
Sodium citrate
Salt
Gruyere cheese, finely
grated
Gruyere water, from
above
see page 20
Albumin powder
Tartaric acid
Eggyolks, blended
Corn maltodextrin
(Maltrin Ml00, GPC
brand)
Gruyere, finely grated
QUANTITY
250g
8g
2.5g
150g
225g
32g
O.4g
60g
40g
120g
N-Zorbit M 8 g
(National Starch brand)
Cauliflower creme 100 g
anglaise
seepage23S
from page 4-301
SCALING PROCEDURE
3% @ Bloom gelatin in cold water.
100% 0 Warm 250 gofjuice.
Dissolve gelatin in warmed juice.
0.2% 0 Bl e nd with remaining250 g of juice.
Combine with gelatin mi xt ure.
o Cool.
(2) Transfe r to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Refrigerate for at least 3 h.
Dispense foam in 2.5 cm / 1 in thick layer into desired mold.
@ Freeze-dry for 48 h to create carrot meringue.
40%
36%
10%
42%
13%
(37%)"
1%
@ Combine.
@ Heat to 170 c / 338 OF.
@ Pour hot mixture onto sili cone mat.
@ Leave at room temperature to harden compl etely.
@ Break honey caramel into pieces, and measure 210 g.
@ Grind together in food processor to fine powder.
@ Break carrot meringue into large pieces.
@ Garnish with honey caramel and mint powders.
"(% of total weight of honey caramel used)
Yields500 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
111 % @ Combine, and bring to simmer.
3.5%
1%
67%
100%
14%
0.18%
27%
17.5%
53%
3.5%
44%
o Bl end in hot water until completely melted.
Centrifuge at 27,500g or higher forl h.
o Strain, and meas ure 225 g of cheese water.
Blend until powder dissolves.
o Add, and whip to stiff peaks.
(2) Add and rewhip.
Cast into desired mold.
Steam at 77 C / 170 OF until fully set. Cool cheese
souffle.
@ Spread on silicone mat.
@ Bake in 190 C/ 375 ' F oven for 15 min, until crisp and
golden.
@ Cool completely.
@ Combine with cooled cheese.
@ Grind in food processor to fine cheese powder.
@ Warm vacuum-sealed creme anglaise at 70 ' C / 158 OF
for 15 min.
@ Toss cold cheese souffle in cheese powder until
evenly coated.
@) Reheat in oven at 250 ' C / 480 OF until outside is crisp,
about2 min.
@ Serve with warmed creme anglaise.
\ l n I I I U ~ t. k'ITfl-lj:N MANIIAI
This recipe is incredibly versatile.
Any cheese can be used for this
preparation. But, more importantly,
the souffle base can be molded and
cut into any shape and reheated
for service, thereby allowing you
to make a sq uare souffl e with a
hollowed center that can accom-
modate a custard filling.
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ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM BEIGNETS Yields 650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Halibut brandade, 150g
see page l1 2
Pate a choux 250g
see page 341
Carbonated water, 180g
refrigerated
All-purpose flour 60g
Tapioca starch 60 g
Trehalose or isomalt 30g
Vodka 20g
Eggwhites 45g
Zucchini blossoms 75g
(about
eight blossoms)
Frying oil as needed
Salt as needed
from page 5153
pATE A CHOUX
INGREDIENT
Whole milk, heated to
90 C/ 194 OF
Methocel SGA 150
(Dow brand)
Unsalted butter, me lted
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Sugar
All-purpose flour, sifted
QUANTITY
250g
3.2 g
70g
40g
5g
5g
120 g
Eggs 250 g
from page 5152
SCALING
100%
166%
120%
40%
40%
20%
13.5%
30%
50%
SCALING
100%
l.3%
(0.5%)"
28%
16%
2%
2%
48%
PROCEDURE
CD Fold together and reserve. This mi xture can be deep-fried, as it is simil ar to very aerated
Portuguese bacalao fr itters and French accras.
(3) Combine to make batter.
Transfer to 11 whipping si phon.
o Charge with three cartridges of nit rous oxide, and shake vigorously.
Whip to stiff peaks.
@) Fold into brandade and pate a choux mixture.
o Transfer to piping bag.
Pipe mixture into zucchini blossoms.
To serve, dispense batter into open container.
@ Dip st uffed blossoms to coat fu ll y.
@ Deep-fry in 195 C / 380 OF oil until golden brown, about 3 min.
@ Drainonpapertowel-linedtray.
@ Season beignets.
Yields 725 g
PROCEDURE
CD Disperse Methocel over hot milk, shearing constantly
with immersion blender, for3 min.
(3) Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for 12 h to hydrate.
o Blend wit h milk, and bring to boil.
Add to hot milk mixture all at once.
@) Cook, stirring constant ly, unti l mixture forms ball
and pot is coated with shiny film of resid ual dough,
about5 min.
100% 0 Transfer ball of dough to stand mixer.
Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed wit h
paddle attachment until incorporated.
Refrigerate until use.
"(% of total weight afmilk, butter, alive oil, and eggs)
fOAMS
341
PUFFED SNACKS
<D Select a food that puffs well. The table Best Bets for Puffed Snacks
below lists our recommendations and any prep steps.
(3) Parcook (optional). Many foods puff better iffirst dehydrated by
parcooking. See the table for methods, times, and temperatures.
Best Bets for Puffed Snacks
Ingredient Preparation Method
legumes whole coverwith
(chickpeas, water and
lentils, and mung pressure-
beans work best) cook
floury potatoes sliced to 2 mm / blanch in oil
(forpommes }16 in thick
soufflees)
pregelatinized roll to 1- 2 mm /
starch cracker X2-X6 in thick
processed grains whole boil until
(white rice and tender
pearl barley work
best)
rice crisp (white spread in a layer boil to a
rice) 2 mm thick after porridge
cooking (falling apart)
tapioca starch roll before cooking steam
cracker or slice after cook-
ing to 1-2 mm /
X2-X6 in thick
dried wheat pasta whole
whole grains whole
(corn, wild rice,
and barley with
husk work best)
from page 4302
POMMES SOUFFlEES
INGREDIENT
Russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into
ovals or rectangles 3 mm I Va in thick to
3.5 mm I %, in thick
Frying oil
Salt
from page 4306
boil
---
QUANTITY
400 g
as needed
to taste
Parcook
(Oc) (oF)
1 bar /
15 psi
157 315
n/a
100 212
100 212
100 212
100 212
n/ a
Yields325g
SCALING
100%
Dehydrate. Dry the food until it is 11 %-15% water by weight as measured
by a moisture analyzer. Dehydration times in the table are given as a
guide and will vary. Whole grains do not need a dehydration step
because they are already dehydrated.
@) Fry or microwave at 100% power.
Dehydrate Deep-fry
Microwave
at800W
(min) (OC) (OF) (h) (OC) (OF) (s) (s)
See
page
15 50 120 50min 190 375 40 60 344
(in paper
bag)
n/a 195 380 30 n/ a below
65 150 1 200 390 15 35 344
25 55 130 10 205 400 45 30 343
1 h 50 120 3 200 390 12 40 next
70 (for loaf) 50 120 1 205 400 12 45 next
30 (for
prerolled)
35 55 130 10 205 400 45 2min
n/ a 200 390 15 90 344
(in paper
bag)
CD Preheat two fryers or pots of oil. Bring oi l in first pot to 145 C / 290 OF and
oil in second pot to 195 C I 390 OF.
(3) Soak potatoes in ice water for 30 min.
Dry slices after they have firmed.
@) Blanch in 145 C I 290 OF oil. Slices will blister in 7-8 min; cook them for
another 60 s, and then drain, and pat dry. Rest for at least 5 min and for up
to 4 h before puffing.
Puffin 195 cl 390 OF oil for1-3 min, moving potatoes constantly. Do not
overcrowd pot. Remove each slice as soon as it has fully puffed and turned
evenly brown.
@) Drain gently on paper towels. Season with salt.
342 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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TAPIOCA STARCH CRACKER
INGREDIENT
Warm watedorflavorfulliquid)
Tapioca starch
Ground meat or shellfish (optional)
Salt
Frying oil
from page 4303
Use only polyethylene-based
plastiC wrap forthis recipe. Films
based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC)
could leach into the food when
used this way.
QUANTITY
120g
200g
6sg
sg
as needed
Yields125g
SCALING
60%
100%
32.5%
2.5%
CD Blend all ingredients to make very fluid, thixotropic dough. Use food
processor, if available, orwet hands and flexible spatula.
o Roll dough in plastic wrap into tight cylinder, and tie ends firmly.
Steam 40-50 min until dough turns gray and slightly translucent .
o Chi ll for at least 5 h. Dough wi ll harden as it cools.
Cut into slices 1-2.5 mm / v,,-Y. in thick, using meat sli cer, if avai lable.
Thin chips wil l be li ght and crisp. Thicker chips will be firm, with
Styrofoam-like crunch si milar to the prawn crackers that Vietnamese
restaurants often serve.
@) Dehydrate at SO c / 122 OF until chips attain dry, yet flexible, plastic-like
texture, about 3 h. Their residual moisture content should be 11-14%.
To preserve for later use, vacuum seal under light pressure.
o Deep-fry in 198 c / 390 OF oil until fully puffed, 20-30 s. Remove from
oil, and drain on paper towels.
BLACK SESAME RICE CRISPS INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA Yields300 g
INGREDIENT
White
long-grain rice
Water
Black sesame seeds
Fryingoil
Salt
from page 4304
RICE CRISP
INGREDIENT
Water
Sushi rice
Glutinous rice flour
Frying oil
Fine salt
from page 532
QUANTITY
320g
1 kg
75g
as needed
to taste
QUANTITY
1 kg
200g
120g
as needed
as needed
SCALING
100%
313%
23%
PROCEDURE
CD Boil until rice is overcooked and achieves porridge-like texture, about1 h.
o Puree with hand blender until nearly smooth but with small fragments throughout.
Mix into rice.
o Spread in layer1.5 mm / Y,6 thick on si li cone mat.
Dehydrate at 50 C / 120 OF until dry but still pliable, about3 h.
@) Break into large fragments, and reserve in dry environment.
o Heat oi l to 190 c / 375 OF.
@) Deep-fry rice crisps until crisp and sli ghtly puffed, about 12 s.
Drain on paper towels.
@ Season.
Yields350 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
500%
100%
60%
CD Combine ri ce with 800 g of water. Reserve re main ing
200 g of water.
o Cook until consistency of porridge, about1 h.
Make slurry with 200 g of water, and simmerfor2 min.
o Combine with cooked sushi ri ce, and puree until
mostly smooth, but with small fragments throughout.
Pour onto silicone mat in layer1 .s mm / Y.. in thick.
@) Dehydrate in 50 c / 122 OF oven until fully desiccated,
about3 h.
o Break into large fragments.
@) Store in airtight container in cool, dry place.
Deep-fry rice crisps in 190 C / 375 OF oil until very
crispy and dry, about 45 s.
@ Drain on paper towels, and season with salt.
FOA M S
343
PUFFED CHICKPEAS
This process can also be appli ed to
puff whole grains such as forbidden
rice and barley (both pictured
above before and after puffing) or
others such as wild rice, amaranth,
and corn. Simply omit the cooking
step, and deep-fry in 200 c I
390'F oil until they puff, about 15 s
-or instead coat them with oil and
microwave them at 800 W for 90 s
in a sealed paper bag.
PUFFED CRAB CRACKER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Shellfish stock 400g
see page 6
Tapioca starch 150g
Water, warmed 55g
Raw crabmeat or prawn 55g
meat, ground
Salt 7g
Fryingoil as needed
from page 5190
CD Cover chickpeas with twice their volume in cold
water. Soak, refrigerated, for 12 h. Drain.
o Combine soaked chickpeas with water in pressure
cooker, and cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi
for15 min. Rest chickpeas for 5 min, and then drain
and cool.
Spread cooked chickpeas evenly on dehydratortray,
and dehydrate at50 C I 120 ' F for 50 min.
8 Deep-fry dried chickpeas in 190 C I 375 ' F oil until
puffed and golden, about 40 s. Season.
SCALING
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Reduce to 55 g.
o Cool.
INGREDIENT
Water
Dry chickpeas
Fryingoil
Salt
from page 4307
37.5% Whisk together with reduced stock to form dough.
14%
14% 8 Ble nd with dough in food processor.
QUANTITY
500g
250g
as needed
to taste
2%
Spread paste on plastic wrap, and ro ll into cylinder 5 cm I 2 in. in diameter.
@) Steam for1 h 10 min.
o Cool, and then refrigerate until rigid, at least 5 h.
Cut into slices 1 mm 11/32 in thick, using meat sli cer if avail able.
Dehydrate sli ces at 50 ' C I 120 OF until brittle, about 1 h.
@ Store in airtight container at room temperature.
Yields200g
SCALING
200%
100%
Yields 125 g
@ Deep-fry crab crackers in 190 C I 375 OF oi l until puffed, 5-10 s. Dry on absorbent paper
towels.
CHEESE PUFFS INSPIRED BY WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields170 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
N-ZorbitM 50g
(National Starch brand)
Thin cheddar cheese 25g
sauce
see page299
Crisp Coat UC 66g
(National Starch brand)
Ultra-Spe rs e M 16.5g
(National Starch brand)
Salt 4g
Cheddar cheese water 300g
see page 20
Frying oil as needed
from page 4305
'lA..1.
SCALING
16.7%
8.4%
22%
5.5%
1.3%
100%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until smooth paste.
o Spread thinly on nonstick sheet.
Dehydrate at50 ' C/ 122 OF for 8-12 h until completely dry.
8 Grind to make cheese powder.
Dry blend powders.
@) Whisk cheese water into powder mixture to form paste.
o Spread onto si li cone mats in one layer, 3 mm IX, in thick.
Dry in 65 ' C/ 150 ' F oven for1 h.
Break into desired shapes.
@ Fry shapes for 10-15 s at 200 C 1 390 F.
@ Drain on paper towels.
@ Dust cheese powder over puffs.
VOlllMf h . KITCHEN MANUAL
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SOCCARAT TUlLE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Water 160g
Bomba rice 100 g
Olive oil 5g
Salt 2 g
Puffed wild rice 50g
see page 342
Freeze-dried piquillo
19
pepper powder (or sweet
paprika)
see page 188
from page 5245
CANDIED PUFFED OATS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Honey 100g
Trehalose 40g
Water 20g
Bakingsoda 0. 7g
Puffed oats 40g
see page 342
Cocoa nibs 9g
Salt 1 g
Quatre epices 0.2g
see page 48
from page 5128
SCALLOP MOCHI
INGREDIENT
Water
Dried scall ops (store-bought)
Mochiflour
Scallop infusion, from above
Glucose syrup DE 40
Salt
Frying oil
Freeze-dried scallops, ground to fine
powder
see page 58
from page 4308
SCALING
160%
100%
5%
2%
50%
1%
SCALING
100%
40%
20%
0.7%
40%
9%
1%
0.2%
QUANTITY
100 g
20g
50g
50g
25g
1.2 g
as needed
5g
Yields 170 g (about 24 discs)
PROCEDURE
CD Vacuum seal together.
(3) Cook sous vide in 90 ' ( / 194 ' F bath until very tende r,
about 45 min.
Puree with cooked rice mi xture unti l smooth.
o Spread puree evenly on si licone baking mat.
Sprinkle puree evenly with puffed rice.
@) Bake in 150 ' ( / 300 ' F oven until crisp, about 10 min.
o Dust rice cri sp, while still warm, with piquillo peppe r
powde r.
Break into desired shapes.
Serve, or reserve in airtight container.
Yields200g
PROCEDURE
CD Combine.
(3) Heatto 185 ' ( / 365 ' F.
Stir into hot sugar mixture.
o Fold into hot sugar mi xture.
Pour onto si licone baking mat, and set at room
temperature.
@) Break into small chunks, and res erve in airtight
containe r in cool, dry place.
Yields 60 g
SCALING
CD Vacuum seal dri ed scall ops with water.
o Cook in 90 ' ( / 194 ' F bath fo r lY2 h.
200%
40%
Remove from bag, and strain. Measure SO g of scallop infusion, and cool.
o Mix mochi flour, scall op infusion, glucose, and salt into smooth paste.
100%
100%
50%
2.4%
10%
Microwave dough for 2V2 min on full powe r. The dough will turn opaque
and become very elasti c.
@) Roll out mochi dough to 2 mm /:y,. in thick. Place dough between two
sili cone mats and use rolling pin.
o Remove top mat, and dehydrate dough on bottom mat in a
107 ' ( / 225 ' F oven for10 min.
Flip dough over, and de hydrate for10 min more.
Run dough through pasta machine to 1 mm /}S2 in th ickness.
@ Cut with round cutte r into scallop shapes.
@ Lay each pair of cut shapes on top of each other, and laminate by running
them toget he r through pasta roll er.
@ Re peat lamination process with re maining dough.
@ Dehydrate mochi discs at 60 C / 140 OF until leathery and pliable, about
30 min, to make light puffs. De hyd rate at same temperat ure for up to 5 h
until very dry to make very crispy, denser puffs.
@ Deep-fry dehydrated discs in 200 ' ( / 390 ' F oil unti l fu ll y puffed and
golden brown, about 1V2 min.
@ Dust with scallop powde r.
fOAMS 345
GREMOLATA CRISP
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Parsley leaves 245g
Water 10 9
Water 120 g
long-grain white rice 50 g
Rice puree, from above 100 g
Parsley puree, 85g
from above
Eggwhites 75 g
Vodka 26g
Baking powder 5.2g
Salt 2.2g
Garlic powder 2g
lemon zest, grated 1.3 g
lemon juice 0.5g
Black pepper, coarsely 0.4 g
cracked
Ascorbic acid 0.35g
lemon essential oil O.l g
(two drops)
from page 564
346
Yields: 135 g
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% CD Bl anch until te nder, about2 min.
4% (3) Blend with parsley to make fine puree.
49%
20%
41%
35%
30.5%
10.5%
2.1%
1%
0.8%
0.3%
0.2%
0.16%
0.14%
0.04%
Pass through fi ne sieve, and measure 85 g.
o Cook ri ce until completely soft and mi xt ure has consistency of porridge, about 35 min.
Puree in food processor, leaving small grain specks visibl e.
@) Cool, and measure 100 g.
o Combine.
Pl ace cri sp base in siphon, and charge with two ni trous oxide cartridges.
Dispense onto sili cone mat, a nd spread evenl y in thi n layer.
@ Microwave at medium power (400 W) for 50-60 s to dehydrate. Sheet should be very crunchy.
@ Break into uneven pieces.
@ Store crisps in airtight container at room temperature.
VOL UME 6 . KITCH EN MANUAL
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VACUUM-SET FOAMS
AERATED MANGO SORBET
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Sugar 280g
Water 120 g
Mango flesh, frozen 500g
Syrup, from above 208g
Citri c acid lOAg
from page 4311
EDIBLE PRUNE COALS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Dried prunes 200g
Prune juice 100 g
Armagnac (or cognac) 60g
Salt
19
Water 20g
Gum arabic
10 9
Sugar 75g
Trehalose 75g
Glucose, syrup DE 40 40g
Water 30 g
Carbon black powder 5g
(nat ural food coloring)
Baking soda, sieved
10 9
Spi ced ash 20g
see page206
from page 4314
SCALING
56%
24%
100%
41%
2%
Yi elds 700 g (17 portions)
PROCEDURE
@ Whisk together in pot, and cook to 102 C! 216 of; syrup density should reach 75 Bri x.
Measure and reserve 208 g of syrup.
Puree until very smooth and sli ghtl y foamy.
o Place in bowl set over salted ice water, and stir unti l very cold and viscous.
Pour 40 g of mango base into 1 pt mason jars; re peat until all base is used (up to 17 jars).
Attach lids and rings, and close unt il just snug.
o Place in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum until sorbet reaches top of jar.
Freeze for at least 5 h.
Remove from freezer, and open whil e frozen solid.
@ Replace lid, and all ow sorbet to soften sli ghtl y at room temperature for 5 min before serving.
Yi e lds300 g
SCALING
100%
50%
30%
0.5%
10%
5%
37.5%
37.5%
20%
15%
2.5%
5%
10%
CD Boil the dried prunes, with prune jui ce, Armagnac, and sa lt. After the prune mi xture
has come to a boil , remove it from the heat, and let cool.
Vacuum seal the prunes and liquids togethe r. This is an excell e nt way to marinate
prunes and store them easil y until needed. Refrigerate t he bag for 12 h, and then
remove the prunes from the marinade.
Arrange the prunes o n a nons ti ck baking sheet, and brush them evenl y with gum arabic
solution. Gum arabic acts as a moisture barrier and prevents the black syrup coating
(in a later step) from becoming sticky.
o Dry the prunes in a 190 C! 375 OF oven for 6 min, turning them every lV2 min to ens ure
eve n drying. As a quicker alte rnat ive, use a blowtorch to lightly fl ash each prune's
surface. Ho ld a low flame 10 cm ! 4 in away from each prune. Roll the prune while
flashing until its surface is uniformly leat he ry .
Whisk the sugars and water together to create the black coating syrup. Caramelize it by
heating it in a pan to 170 c / 338 OF. Remove the mi xt ure immediately fro m the heat, and
then whi sk in the baking soda and carbon black powder. Be careful-the hot syrup wi ll
bubble violently.
Skewer the dri ed prunes, a nd dip them immediately into the hot, black, foa my syrup.
Coat all surfaces evenl y, and place the coated prunes on a silicone-lined baking sheet.
Then place t he sheet immediately in a vacuum chamber.
o Pull a vacu um for 20 s. As pressure in the vacuum chamber decreases, the hi gher
pressure of the carbon dioxide inside the bubbles causes them to swell. A sugar coati ng
will form. Turn off the machine, an d maintain the press ure. All ow the sugar foam to
harden fo r 10 min before opening the machine. The sugar should transform into a ri gid
glass that resists coll apse when t he vacuum is re leased. Store the prunes in a dry
chambe r, for no more than 8 h.
To serve, dust edible ash over the prepared prunes. Dusting the prune coals with as h
made from pain d'epices powder blended wit h food coloring provides a fina l touch of
realism.
FOAMS 347
AERATED FOIE GRAS ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Simplesse 5.5g
(CP Kelco brand)
Agar l.7g
Konjacgum 0.7 g
(TIC Gums brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.3g
CP Kelco brand)
Foie gras torchon 315 g
see page lO4
Water 105g
Eggyolk 20g
(one large)
from page 4311
AERATED GRUYERE
SCALING
1.7%
(1.25%)'
0.5%
(0.4%)'
0.2%
(0.76%)'
0.1%
(0.07%)'
100%
33.3%
6.3%
PROCEDURE
CD Dry blend powders.
o Microwave in bowl until melted, about 2 min.
Add gum mixture, blending until completely incorporated.
@) Heat water in microwave for 1Y, min.
@) Combine hot water slowly with yolk to temper, using hand blender.
@) Mix in gum and terrine mixture, emulsifying full y.
o Blend emulsion with hand blender to whi p in air as mixture cools.
Cool mixture to 36 ' C/ 97 ' F.
Transfer to one-sixth-size hotel pan.
@ Place in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum until mixture rises to top of pan.
@ Place pan over ice-water bath, and all ow foie gras to set for 2 h.
@ Break into uneven pieces, and serve.
' (% of total weight aflast three ingredients)
INSPIRED BY H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AK I KAMOZAWA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Skim milk 180g
160 Bloom gelatin 3.6g
Agar (Texturas brand) 1 g
Locust bean gum (POR/ A2 O.lg
Powder, TIC Gums brand)
Gruyere cheese, grated 180g
Salt 3g
SCALING
100%
2%
(7%)'
0.55%
(0.28%)'
0.05%
(0.03%)'
100%
1.6%
PROCEDURE
CD Blend until powders are incorporated.
o Bring to boil over medium heat.
Remove from heat.
@) Add to hot milk mixture, and stir until cheese has melted.
@) Pour into blender, and process until completely homogenous.
Yields425g
Yields360 g
Cayenne pepper powder 0.2g 0.1% @) Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
o Dispense into four 235 ml / 8 A oz Mason jars.
Seal with lids immediately.
Refrigerate for at least 5 h before opening.
from page 4312 ' (% of total weight afcheese and skim milk)
:l4R VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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AERATED COFFEE ICE CREAM ADAPTED FROM ALEX STUPAK Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY
Whole milk sOOg
Coffee beans sOg
Sugar 122 g
Dextrose 97.sg
Eggyolks 24.5g
(from two eggs)
Propylene glycol alginate 4.9g
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Cream cheese 80.5g
Unsalted butter 73g
Salt 1.95 g
from page 4-312
SCALING
100%
10%
24.4%
19.5%
4.9%
1%
(O.5%) ,
16.1%
14.6%
0.4%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, and vacuum seal. Infuse, refrigerated,
for 24 h.
o Strain.
Whisk into warm milk unti l dissolved.
8) Pour warm mil k over yolks, and whisk to temper.
Transfe r mixture to blender, and mix in PGA on low
speed.
@ Increase to high speed, and blend for1 min.
o Add to blender, an d continue blending until smooth.
Cool complete ly over ice water.
Churn in ice cream machine according to
manufacturer's instructions, orfreeze in Pacojet
beaker and pacotize.
@ Transfer ice cream to piping bag, and pipe layer 1 cm /
V2 in thick into bottom of Food Saver canister; or pipe
into mason jars, and cover with lids.
@ Place container or jars in vacuum machine, and pull
vacuum until foaming ice cream reaches top of
container.
@ Remove from machine, and freeze for at least 8 h
before opening and serving.
'(% of total weightafmilk, sugar, dextrose, yolk, cream cheese, and butter)
Ice cream is a foam. Air bubbles,
called overrun for ice cream,
typically make up 33%-50% of ice
cream by volume. Alex Stupak
increases that percentage by using
a vacuum to expand the foam.
AERATED CHOCOLATE ADAPTED fROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields500 g
INGREDIENT
Mi lk chocolate
(33% cocoa solids)
Mycryo spray-dried
cocoa butter
(Callebaut brand)
Mandarin essential oil
(optional)
Polyglycerol
polyricinoleate {PGPR}
from page 4313
QUANTITY SCALING
500g 100%
10 9
2%
5g 1%
19
0.2%
PROCEDURE
CD Combine, and vacuum seal. Place mold in bottom ofvacuum chamber.
o Transfer melted chocolate to metal or glass bowl.
Melt sous vide in 53 C / 127 OF bath for12 h.
8) Place layer of aluminum foil on bottom of mold 1.5 cm / Y, in deep, measuringll cm by 6 cm /
4'/t in by 2% in.
Cool to 40 c / 104 OF, and stir in Mycryo.
@ Stir constantly until cooled to 28 C / 82 OF.
o Pl ace bowl of chocolate over simmering water, and stir constantly unti l chocolate
reaches 32 C / 90 OF. Remove from heat.
Stir in PGPR and essential oil until fully incorporated.
Transfer to warmed 1 I whipping siphon, and charge wi th two cartridges of nitrous dioxide.
@ Dispense quickly into foil-lined mold set inside vacuum chamber.
@ Pull vacuum, and a llow foam to rise to top of mold.
@ Turn offvacuum machine, but hold foam unde r vacuum for 1 h to set.
@ Remove aerated chocolate from chamber, and store in cool, dry e nvironment.
The British Aero candy bar was
the original inspiration for Heston
Blume nthal 's aerated chocolate,
which we have adapted forthis
book.
FOAMS 349
COFFEE BUTTER
INGREDIENT
Roasted coffee beans
Unsalted butter
from page 4371
QUANTITY
17Sg
12Sg
Yields12Sg
SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Seal together in Mason jar.
71% @ Boil for4 h. Or, vacuum seal mixture, and cooksous vide in 90 "C/ 194 "F bath for4 h.
Refrigerate.
Cold extraction is our favorite way to make coffee for use as an ingredient
in cooking. A different approach to incorporating coffee flavor in food is
to use commercial instant espresso powder. It can even be used dry,
For more on extracting flavors using butter and other fats, see page 2328.
You might think that extraction in this coffee butter would be more effective
if the coffee were ground. It would be, but unfortunately, that makes the
flavor unbalanced, so we prefer whole beans here. in a spice rub for a steak, fo r example.
STABLE LATTE FOAM Yields 200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Skim milk 400 g 100% 0 Dry blend powders, and disperse in cold milk.
4 g 1% @ Blend until fully dissolved. Whey protein isolate
Sucrose esters 4.8 g 1.2% Steam with steam wand, or whip with an Aerolatte wand until stiff head offoam forms,
(Sucro, Texturas brand) 2-3 min.
@) Stir to moisten with milk.
Foam remains stable for up to 30 min.
from page 4392
350 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
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CO F FEE 351
REFERENCE TABLES
352
Converting Temperature
To convert temperatures from Celsius to
Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8, then add 32
to the product.
To convert from Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract
32, then multiply the result by % (0.56).
Celsius to Fahrenheit to
Fahrenheit Celsius
(oc) (oF) (of) (oc)
- 196.0 - 320.8 - 200.0 - 128.9
- 78.5 - 109.3 - 80.0 - 62.2
- 60.0 - 76.0 - 60.0 - 51.1
- 40.0 -40.0 -40.0 -40.0
- 20.0 - 4.0 - 20.0 - 28.9
0 32.0 0 - 17.8
1 33.8 1 - 17.2
2 35.6 2 - 16.7
3 37.4 3 - 16.1
4 39.2 4 - 15.6
5 41.0 5 -15.0
6 42.8 6 - 14.4
7 44.6 7 - 13.9
8 46.4 8 -13.3
9 48.2 9 - 12.8
10 50.0 10 - 12.2
11 51.8 11 - 11.7
12 53.6 12 - 11.1
13 55.4 13 - 10.6
14 57.2 14 -10.0
15 59.0 15 - 9.4
16 60.8 16 - 8.9
17 62.6 17 - 8.3
18 64.4 18 - 7.8
19 66.2 19 - 7.2
20 68.0 20 -6.7
21 69.8 21 - 6.1
22 71.6 22 -5.6
23 73.4 23 - 5.0
24 75.2 24 - 4.4
25 77.0 25 - 3.9
26 78.8 26 -3.3
VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Converting Temperature
Celsius to Fahrenheit to
Fahrenheit Celsius
(oc) (oF) (oF) (oc)
27 80.6 27 - 2.8
28 82.4 28 - 2.2
29 84.2 29 - 1.7
30 86.0 30 -1. 1
31 87.8 31 - 0.6
32 89.6 32 0.0
33 91.4 33 0.6
34 93.2 34 1.1
35 95.0 35 1.7
36 96.8 36 2.2
37 98.6 37 2.8
38 100.4 38 3.3
39 102.2 39 3.9
40 104.0 40 4.4
41 105.8 41 5.0
42 107. 6 42 5.6
43 109.4 43 6.1
44 111.2 44 6.7
45 113.0 45 7.2
46 114.8 46 7.8
47 116.6 47 8.3
48 118.4 48 8.9
49 120.2 49 9.4
50 122.0 50 10.0
51 123.8 51 10.6
52 125.6 52 11.1
53 127.4 53 11.7
54 129.2 54 12.2
55 131.0 55 12.8
56 132.8 56 13.3
57 134.6 57 13.9
58 136.4 58 14.4
59 138.2 59 15.0
60 140.0 60 15.6
61 141.8 61 16.1
62 143.6 62 16.7
63 145.4 63 17.2
64 147.2 64 17.8
65 149.0 65 18.3
66 150.8 66 18.9
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Celsius to Fahrenheit to
Fahrenheit Celsius
(oc) (oF) (oF) (oC)
67 152.6 67 19.4
68 154.4 68 20.0
69 156.2 69 20.6
70 158.0 70 21.1
71 159.8 71 21.7
72 161.6 72 22.2
73 163.4 73 22.8
74 165.2 74 23.3
75 167.0 75 23.9
76 168.8 76 24.4
77 170.6 77 25.0
78 172.4 78 25.6
79 174.2 79 26.1
80 176.0 80 26.7
81 177.8 81 27.2
82 179.6 82 27.8
83 181.4 83 28.3
84 183.2 84 28.9
85 185.0 85 29.4
86 186.8 86 30.0
87 188.6 87 30.6
88 190.4 88 31.1
89 192.2 89 31.7
90 194.0 90 32.2
91 195.8 91 32.8
92 197.6 92 33.3
93 199.4 93 33.9
94 201.2 94 34.4
95 203.0 95 35.0
96 204.8 96 35.6
97 206.6 97 36.1
98 208.4 98 36.7
99 210.2 99 37.2
100 212 100 37.8
105 221 105 40.6
110 230 110 43.3
115 239 115 46.1
120 248 120 48.9
125 257 125 51.7
130 266 130 54.4
C f T onver mg emperature
Celsius to Fahrenheit to
Fahrenheit Celsius
(oc) (OF) (OF) (oC)
135 275 135 57.2
140 284 140 60.0
145 293 145 62.8
150 302 150 65.6
155 311 155 68.3
160 320 160 71 .1
165 329 165 73.9
170 338 170 76.7
175 347 175 79.4
180 356 180 82.2
185 365 185 85.0
190 374 190 87.8
195 383 195 90.6
200 392 200 93.3
205 401 205 96.1
210 410 210 98.9
215 419 215 101. 7
220 428 220 104.4
225 437 225 107.2
230 446 230 110.0
235 455 235 112.8
240 464 240 11 5.6
245 473 245 118.3
250 482 250 121.1
255 491 255 123.9
260 500 260 126.7
265 509 265 129.4
270 518 270 132.2
275 527 275 135.0
280 536 280 137.8
285 545 285 140.6
290 554 290 143.3
295 563 295 146.1
300 572 300 148.9
USEFUL TEMPERATURES
Boiling point of liquid nitrogen:
-196 e /-321 of
Sublimation temperature of dry ice:
-78.5 O( / -109.3 OF
Freezing point of water:
o e/ 32 OF
Boiling point of water at sea level:
100 e / 212 OF
REFERENCE TABLES 353
Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients
To convert the weights given in our recipes to volumetric meas urements,
divide the number of grams by the conversion factor be low.
1 ml
1 1 2
tsp Tbsp cup
1 cup
PANTRY ITEMS
Flours and Starches
00 flour 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
all-purpose flour 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80
almond flour 0.57 2.8 8.4 68 135
buckwheat flour, sifted 0.55 2.7 8.1 65 130
cake flour 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117
chickpea flour, sifted 0.56 2.8 8.3 66 132
cornmeal 0.67 3.3 9.9 79 158
cornstarch 0.03 0.2 0.5 4 8
durum flour 0.63 3.1 9.4 75 150
gluten flour 0.04 0.2 0.6 5 10
rice flour, glutinous 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 11 7
rice flour, sweet 0.63 3.1 9.4 75 150
semolina 0.79 3.9 11.7 94 187
tapioca 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
Crains and Legumes
barley 0.70 3.5 10.4 83 166
brown rice crisp 0.15 0.8 2.3 18 36
chickpeas 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200
lentils, black (urad dal) 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200
lentils, green 0.87 4.3 12.9 104 207
oats, rolled 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
oats, steel-cut 0.75 3.7 11 .1 89 178
oats, toasted 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
peas, black-eyed 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200
quinoa 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178
rice, Arborio 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210
rice, basmati 0.79 3.9 11.8 94 188
rice, jasmine 0.83 4.1 12.3 98 196
rice, paella 0.80 4.0 11.9 95 190
rice, sushi 0.90 4.4 13.3 106 212
rice, wild 0.74 3.6 10.9 88 175
rye, berries 0.78 3.9 11.6 93 185
rye, cracked 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
soy beans 0.40 2.0 5.9 48 95
354 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Converting Weights
To convert weights from grams to
ounces, divide by 28.35. To convert from
ounces to grams, mult iply by 28.35.
Crams to Ounces to
ounces grams
(g) (oz) (oz) (g)
0.1 0.004 0.1 2.8
0.2 0.007 0.2 5.7
0.3 0.011 0.3 8.5
0.4 0.014 0.4 11 .3
0.5 0.018 0.5 14.2
0.6 0.021 0.6 17.0
0.7 0.025 0.7 19.8
0.8 0.028 0.8 22.7
0.9 0.032 0.9 25.5
1 0.035 1 28.4
2 0.071 2 56.7
3 0.106 3 85.1
4 0.141 4 113.4
5 0.176 5 141 .8
6 0.212 6 170.1
7 0.247 7 198.5
8 0.282 8 226.8
9 0.317 9 255.2
10 0.353 10 283.5
11 0.388 11 311.9
12 0.423 12 340.2
13 0.459 13 368.6
14 0.494 14 396.9
15 0.529 15 425.3
16 0.564 16 453.6
17 0.600 17 482.0
18 0.635 18 510.3
19 0.670 19 538.7
20 0.705 20 567.0
21 0.741 21 595.4
22 0.776 22 623.7
23 0.811 23 652.1
24 0.847 24 680.4
25 0.882 25 708.8
30 1.058 30 850.5
35 1.235 35 992.3
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Grams to Ounces to
ounces grams
1 ml
1 1 Yz
1 cup
tsp Tbsp cup
(g) (oz) (oz) (g) tapioca, small pearl 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178
40 1.411 40 1,134.0 liquids
45 1.587 45 1,275.8
cocoa butter 0.58 2.9 8.6 69 138
50 1.764 50 1,417.5
cream, whipping 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
55 1.940 55 1,559.3
creme fraiche 0.96 4.8 14.3 114 228
60 2.116 60 1,701.0
milk,l%fat 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232
65 2.293 65 1,842.8
milk,2%fat 0.93 4.6 13.7 110 219
70 2.469 70 1,984.5
milk, skim 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232
75 2.646 75 2,126.3
milk, soy 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
80 2.822 80 2,268.0
milk,whole 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
85 2.998 85 2,409.8
oils 0.78 3.9 11.6 93 185
90 3.175 90 2, 551.5
vinegars 0.86 4.3 12.8 102 204
95 3.351 95 2, 693.3
vodka 0.80 4.0 11.9 95 190
100 3.527 100 2,835.0
water 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
110 3.880 110 3,118.5
wine 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210
120 4.233 120 3,402.0
130 4.586 130
Nuts
3,685.5
140 4.938 140 3,969.0
almonds, blanched 0.61 3.0 9.1 73 145
150 5.291 150 4,252.5
almonds, marcona, roasted 0.55 2.7 8.1 65 130
160 5.644 160 4,536.0
cashews, roasted 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
170 5.996 170 4,819.5
hazelnuts, peeled and roasted 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
180 6.349 180 5,103.0
macadamia nuts, roasted 1.14 5.6 16.9 135 270
190 6.702 190 5,386.5
pine nuts, roasted 0.61 3.0 9.1 73 145
200 7.055 200 5,670.0
pistachios, peeled and roasted 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
250 8.818 250 7,087.5 walnuts, roasted 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90
300 10.582 300 8,505.0 Sauces and Syrups
,
350 12.346 350 9,922.5 barley malt 1.69 8.3 25.0 200 400
400 14.109 400 11 ,340.0
ketchup 1.19 5.9 17.6 141 282
450 15.873 450 12,757.5
maple syrup 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
500 17.637 500 14,175.0
molasses 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
550 19.400 550 15,592.5
soy sauce, brown 1.08 5.3 16.0 128 256
600 21.164 600 17,010.0
soy sauce, white 1.08 5.3 16.0 128 256
650 22.928 650 18,427.5
tomato paste 1.12 5.5 16.6 133 265
700 24.691 700 19,845.0
Worcestershire sauce 1.19 5.9 17.6 141 282
750 26.455 750 21,262.5
Sugars
800 28.219 800 22,680.0
agave nectar 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
850 29.982 850 24,097.5
fructose 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195
900 31.746 900 25,515.0
950 33.510 950 26,932.5
1,000 35.273 1,000 28,350.0
glucose 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
honey 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
isomalt 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225
1 pound =. 453.59 g / 16 OZ; 1 kg ~ 2.21b
REFERENC E TABLES 355
Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients
1 ml
1 1 Yz
tsp Tbsp cup
1 cup
sugar, brown
0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
sugar, Demerara 0.70 3.5 10.4 83 166
sugar, granulated 0.87 4.3 12.8 103 205
sugar, muscovado l.08 5.3 15.9 128 255
sugar, palm
0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195
sugar, powdered 0.49 2.4 7.2 58 115
sugar, raw cane 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232
SEASONINGS
Chilies, Dry
Aleppo peppers, crushed 0.50 2.5 7.4 59 118
black peppercorns, ground 0.32 1.6 4.8 38 77
black peppercorns, whole 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144
cayenne, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
Hungarian paprika, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
pimenton de la Vera, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
pink peppercorns, whole 0.44 2.3 6.5 52 104
red chili, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
Sichuan pepper, crushed 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
Thai chili, flakes 0.37 l.8 5.5 44 88
white peppercorns, whole 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
Herbs and Aromatics, Fresh, Minced
basil 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93
chamomile, dry blossoms, 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48
powder
chamomile, dry blossoms, whole 0.10 0.5 l.5 12 24
cilantro 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
elderberry, dry 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
garlic 1.15 5.7 17.0 136 272
hawthorne berries 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144
heather tips 0.17 0.8 2.5 20 40
juniper berries 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
lavender 0.14 0.7 2.0 16 32
lemon zest, grated 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
lemongrass, minced 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
licorice root, chunks 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
lime zest, grated 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
mint 0.20 l.0 3.0 24 48
i orange zest 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
I oregano 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93
. __ . . -
356 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Common Conversion Factors
To convert
To:
Multiply
from: by:
ml tsp 0.203
tsp ml 4.93
ml Tbsp 0;068
Tbsp ml 14.787
ml cup 0.004
cup ml 236.59
tsp cup 0.021
cup tsp 48
Tbsp cup 0.063
cup Tbsp 16
ml oz 0.034
oz ml 29.574
pint qt 0.25
qt pint 4
qt gal 0.25
gal qt 4
qt I 0.946
I qt 1.057
I gal 0.264
gal I 3.785
oz Ib 0.063
Ib oz 16
g oz 0.035
oz g 28.35
g Ib 0.002
Ib g 453.592
oz kg 0.Q28
kg oz 35.274
Ib kg 0.454
kg Ib 2.2
mm in 0.394
in mm 25.4
cm in 0.394
in cm 2.54
m ft 3.3
ft m 0.305
s min 0.017
J
BTU 0.001
BTU
J
1,055.10
kcal BTU 3.966
I
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C
~
C
C-
C
C-
C-
c-
c:-
~
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~
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c:-
~
~
c::-
~
~
~
C-
C-
C-
C-
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C-
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C-
C-
C-
C"'"
C-
C""
e:-
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t:""
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Common Conversion Factors
To convert
To:
from:
BTU kcal
kcal
J
J kcal
W BTU/ h
BTU/ h W
W hp
hp W
glcm
3
oz/ in
3
oz/ in
3
glcm
3
N Ib force
Ib force N
mbar torr
torr mbar
mbar psi
psi mbar
bar psi
psi bar
Pa mbar
mbar Pa
bar atm
atm bar
Converting Volume
Measures
Multiply
by:
0.252
4,184
0.000
0.001
1,055 .04
0.001
745.7
0.578
1.73
0.225
4.482
0.75
1.333
0.015
68.95
14.5
0.069
0.01
100
0.987
1.013
Met-
u.s. Imperial
ric
(ml) (pint)
(fl
oz)
5 ltsp O/S
15 1 Tbsp V2
30 2Tbsp 1
60 ';4 cup V8 2
90 V3 cup V3 3
120 V2 cup Vs 4
150 0/3 cup ';4 5
180 y" cup V3 6
240 1 cup "/s 8
300 1';4 V2 10
cups
480 2 cups "/3 16
600 2Y, 1 20
cups
1,000 1 quart 4 32
Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients
1 ml
1 1 h
1 cup
tsp Tbsp cup
parsley 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
rosemary 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93
shallots 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117
tarragon 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80
Thai chili, minced 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
winter greens, dry 0.24 1.2 3.5 28 56
Herbs, Dry
oregano 0.17 0.8 2.5 20 40
rosemary 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48
savory 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48
Salts
salt, Bali pyramid 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
salt, black 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
salt, fine sea 1.14 6.2 18.5 135 270
salt, kosher 1.06 5.8 17.6 125 250
salt, Maldon 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
salt, sea 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
salt, sumac 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
Spices, Dry
ajowan seed, powder 0.56 2.8 8.3 66 132
ajowan seed, whole 0.56 2.8 8.3 67 133
angelica seed, whole 0.09 0.5 1.4 11 22
barley malt vinegar, powder 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136
caraway seed 0.52 2.6 7.8 62 124
cardamom seed, green 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136
cassia, chunks 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
celery seed 0.47 3.0 7.0 56 112
chaat masala 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
chicory 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
cinnamon, powder 0.46 2.3 6.8 55 109
clove, powder 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
clove, whole 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
cocoa nib 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
cocoa powder 0.57 2.8 8.4 68 135
coconut cream, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
coriander seed 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80
cumin, black 0.46 2.3 6.8 55 109
cumin, powder 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
cumin, whole 0.23 1.1 3.4 27 54
REFERENCE TABLES 357
Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients
1 ml
1 1 Yz
tsp Tbsp cup
1 cup
fennel seed, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
fennel seed, whole 0.79 3.9 11.7 94 187
fenugreek seed 0.95 4.7 14.0 112 224
four-spice, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
garum masala, powder 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
ginger, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
grains of paradise, whole 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
licorice, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
mace, powder 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80
mace, whole 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
mustard seed, black, whole 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
mustard seed, yellow, whole 0.74 3.7 11.0 a8 176
nigella seed, whole 0.78 3.8 11.5 92 184
nutmeg, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
pomegranate seed, whole 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
poppy seed, black 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136
poppy seed, black or white 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
porcini mushroom, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
saffron, threads 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48
scallop, freeze-dried, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
sesame seed, black 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
sesame seed, roasted 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
star anise, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
tamarind, powder 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
tomato, freeze-dried, powder 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144
turmeric, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
Dairy
butter 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225
cream cheese 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210
creme fraiche 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225
Gruyere, grated 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90
mascarpone 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225
Parmesan, grated 0.30 1.5 4.4 35 70
ricotta 1.04 5.1 15.4 124 247
Eggs
chicken egg, blended 0.98 5.8 17.5 116 232
chicken egg, large, white 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
chicken egg, large, yolk 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200
358 VOLUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL
Water Content of Typical Foods
Water
con-
Food tent
(%)
Animal Foods
beef, eye of round, raw 73
beef, ground, 73% lean, raw 56
beef, ground, 85% lean, raw 64
beef, whole brisket, raw 71
butter or margarine 20
cheese, American 37
chicken fryer, whole, raw 66
chicken, dark meat, with skin, 66
raw
chicken, white meat, with skin, 69
raw
eggs, raw, whole 74
ham, cooked 54
milk, cow 87
pork, chops, broiled 45
turkey, roasted 62
veal, broiled 60
Fruits
apple, raw 84
apricot, raw 86
banana, raw 75
blackberry, raw 86
blueberry, raw 85
cantaloupe, raw 90
cherry, raw 80
cranberry, raw 87
fruit cocktail, canned 80
,
grape, raw 82
grapefruit, raw 90
mango, raw 82
melon, honeydew, raw 90
orange, raw 87
papaya, raw 89
peach, raw 88
pear, raw 84
pineapple, raw 85
plum, raw 85
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Water Content of Typical Foods Water Content of Typical Foods
Water Water
con- con-
Food tent Food tent
(%) (%)
raspberry, raw 81 greens, collard, raw 91
strawberry, raw 92 greens, dandelion, raw 86
watermelon, raw 93 greens, turnip 91
Grains, Legumes, Nuts, and Seeds kale, raw 87
almonds, raw 7 lettuce, iceberg, raw 96
bread, whole wheat 35 lettuce, loose leaf, raw 94
coconut, dried 7 lettuce, romaine, raw 95
grains/ legumes/seeds, dry
$10
mushroom, raw 92
lentils, cooked 67 okra, boiled or raw 90
macaroni or spaghetti, cooked 70 olives 80
pecans, raw 7 onions, raw 89
rice, bleached 68 parsnip, raw 80
walnuts, raw 4 peas, green, raw 80
Herbs peppers, bell 92
cilantro, raw 92 pickle, cucumber 93
parsley, raw 86 potato, raw 85
Sweeteners pumpkin, canned 90
honey 15 pumpkin, raw 92
jam/ preserves 30 radish, raw 95
molasses 25 rutabaga, boiled 90
Vegetables sauerkraut, canned 93
asparagus, raw 92 spinach, raw 92
bean sprout, raw 92 squash, acorn, raw 88
bean, green, raw 90 squash, boiled 96
beet, raw 87 squash, butternut 94
bok choy, raw 95 squash, kabocha, raw 94
broccoli, raw 91 squash, spaghetti 94
Brussels sprout, raw 86 squash, yellow 94
cabbage, raw 92 sweet potato, boiled in skin 71
carrot, raw 88 sweet potato, raw 73
cassava, raw 60 Swiss chard 94
cauliflower, raw 92 tomato, raw 93
celery, raw 95 watercress, raw 90
corn, sweet, fresh, raw 74 zucchini 95
cucumber, raw 96
eggplant, raw 92
greens, beet, raw 92
REFERENCE TABLES 359
Converting Grams to Volume for Ingredients
1 ml
1 1 Y2
tsp Tbsp cup
1 cup
Fish
fish, ground 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
roe, steel head trout 1.50 7.5 22. 3 178 357
shrimp, ground 0.96 4.7 14. 1 113 226
tobiko 0.80 3.9 11.8 94 189
Meat, Ground
beef 1.27 6.3 18.8 150 300
chicken, breast 1.06 5.2 15.6 125 250
chicken, thigh 1.06 5.2 15.6 125 250
pork 1.27 6.3 18.8 150 300
Vegetables and Fruits
apple, thinly sliced 0.49 2.4 7.2 58 115
avocado, puree 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
butternut squash, brunoise 0.05 0.2 0.7 6 11
butternut squash, thinly sliced 0.66 3.2 9.7 78 155
cabbage, red, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
cabbage, white, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
cantaloupe, thinly sliced 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
carrot, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
cauliflower, thinly sliced 0.5 1 2.5 7.5 60 120
celery, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
corn, kernels 0.76 3.8 11. 3 90 180
fennel, thinly sliced 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90
honeydew melon, thinly sliced 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
leek, thinly sliced 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90
mushroom, button, thinly sliced 0.36 1.8 5.3 43 85
onion, thinly sliced 0.44 2.2 6.6 53 105
pea, green, shelled 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
pear, thinly sliced 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
pineapple, brunoise 0.08 0.4 1.2 9 18
pineapple, thinly sliced 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195
scallion, thinly sliced (green part) 0.30 1.5 4.4 35 70
scallion, thinly sliced (white part) 0.41 2.0 6.1 49 98
shiitake mushroom, thinly sliced 0.27 1.4 4.1 33 65
tomatoes concasse 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
360
VO LUM E 6 . KITCHE N MAN UAL
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Fat Content of Typical Foods
Fat Content of Typical Foods Fat Content of Typical Foods
Typical Food
Fat
Content
Typical Food
Fat
Content
Typical Food
Fat
Content
(%) (%)
(%)
Eggs, Dairy, and Oils liver, chicken 4
pistachios 55
butter 87 liver, veal 7
sesame seeds 48
cheese, aged, firm 25-31 pork, backfat 80
sunflower seeds 50
cheese, aged, soft 23-35 pork, fatty 30
walnuts 61
cheese, Camembert 23 pork, lean 1.5-2
Other Plant Foods
cheese, cheddar 31 red meat, lean 4
avocado 14
cheese, cottage 4 red meat, marbled 10
bread, whole wheat 4.2
cheese, cream 20 red poultry 1- 1.5
chickpeas, cooked 2
cheese, fresh 2-18
cheese, mozzarella 19
cheese, Parmesan 24-26
(duck, goose, pigeon),
breast meat, skinless
red poultry, leg meat 12
sweetbreads 15-18
corn
2.7-8
fruit
<1
grains 0.15
cheese, ricotta 13
cream, double >38
tongue 15
veal, lean 3
lentils, boiled 0.5
vegetables
<1
cream, half-and-half 11 - 17
white poultry 6.5
cream, heavy 38
(chicken, turkey),
cream, light whipping 32- 36
dark meat
cream, sour 12
white poultry, 1-1 .5
white meat
creme fraiche 28
Fish and Shellfish
egg white 0.2
cod 1
egg yolk 26
mackerel 5
milk, cow 3.5
rockfish 3
milk, goat 4.5
salmon 5-10
milk, grey seal 53
sardine 5
milk, low fat 2
shellfish 1
milk, reindeer 17
tuna, belly 12- 15
milk, sheep 7
tuna, lean 1
milk, skim 0
whitefish 1-3
milk, water buffalo 9.5
Nuts and Seeds
milk, whole 3.5-4
almonds 55
oil, refined 99
cashews 44
oil, unrefined 96-99
coconut 57
Meats, Raw
hazelnuts 64
bacon 50-70
kukui nuts 64
bacon, Canadian 1- 4
(candlenuts)
bone marrow 75
macadamia nuts 74
brain 8
olives 3
foie gras 45-52
peanuts 44
heart 3
pecans 70
kidneys 20
REfERENCE TABLES
361
Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods
Typical food
Weight o r
Equivalent (approximate)
amount
asparagus spears, fresh lib 16 to 20 spears
bananas, fresh lib 3-4 fruits; 2 cups sli ced; or lVzcups
mashed
beans, green, fresh lib 3 cups
beans, kidney, dried lib 2Vz cups
beans, navy, dried lib 2V3 cups; 5V3 cups, cooked
beans, soy, dried lib 2 cups
bread crumbs, dry 40z :y.. cup
bread crumbs, fresh 40z 2 cups
broccoli, fresh lib 2 cups, chopped
carrots/root vegetables, pureed lib 1Y, cups
carrots/ root vegetables, sliced lib 3 cups
cheese 3Vz oz 1 cup
coffee, ground lib 80 Tbsp
corn, fresh 2 medium ears 1 cup of kernels
eggs, whole, extra large 1 dozen 3 cups
eggs, whole, large 1 dozen 2V3 cups
eggs, whole, medium 1 dozen 2 cups
eggs, whole, small 1 dozen 1:y.. cups
egg whites, extra large 1 dozen 1:y.. cups
egg whites, large 1 dozen 1Vz cups
egg whites, medium 1 dozen 1V3 cups
egg whites, small 1 dozen 1',4 cups
egg yolks, extra large 1 dozen 1 cup
egg yolks, large 1 dozen 1'8 cup
egg yolks, medium 1 dozen :y.. cup
egg yolks, small 1 dozen 7'3 cup
fats, solid (butter, shortening, etc.) ',4 lb; 40z Vz cup; 8 Tbsp; 1 stick
flours lib 3V2 cups, sifted
fruit, dried, pitted, plumped l ib 2
Z
/3 cups
fruit, dried, pitted, cooked, pureed lib 2V3 cups
fruit, fresh, cooked and chopped lib 2Y, cups
fruit, fresh, pureed lib 1\4 cups
fruit, fresh, raw and sliced lib 3 cups
gelatin, unflavored loz ',4 cup; 4 Tbsp, granulated
greens, leafy lib lV2 cups
herbs, fresh, chopped Yz oz 1 Tbsp
honey lib 1V3 cups
--
362 VO LUM E 6 . KITCH EN MANUAL
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Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods
Typical food
Weight or
Equivalent (approximate)
amount
maple syrup 16 fl oz 2 cups
meat, cooked and finely chopped 80z 1 cup
nuts, chopped 40z :y.. cup
nuts, ground 40z 1 cup, loosely packed
oil, vegetable 1 qt 4 cups
onions, white, fresh lib 4 medium; 2-3 cups, chopped
peas, green, fresh, in pod lib 1 cup, shell ed
pecans lib 4 cups, halved; 3
3
,4 cups, chopped
pistachios lib 31,4-4 cups
potatoes, raw, sliced or chopped lib 3 cups
rice, raw 7'/2 oz 1 cup
spinach, fresh, cooked 11,4 Ib, raw 1 cup, cooked, squeezed dry, chopped
sugar, brown lib 1'/2 cups
sugar, confectioner's lib 4 cups
sugar, granulated 70z 1 cup
tomatoes, fresh :y..-1 Ib, whole 1 cup, peeled and seeded
vegetables (e.g., carrots, celery), 80z 1 cup
raw, chopped fine
Al l conversions are approximate. Weights have been rounded to the nearest useful measure. Weights and
measures of specific ingredients may vary with altitude, humidity, variations in preparation methods, and
other factors .
REFERENCE TABLES
363