Chapter 13 FINAL

CHAPTER
THIRTEEN
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD

c. 1850 - 1869
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ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6 GST R 133004424

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Important Events Influenced Styles of the Crinoline Period
Click to advance through the time line
Justin Smith Morrill 1860 1859 Louis Napoleon becomes 1867 1851 1857 Giuseppe 1863 Garibaldi 1858 1862 Check for $7,200,000.00 Charles Worth meets thethe Empress Charles Darwin publishes his Napoleon the Third and Harpers Bazar, fashion magazine, begins Hoopskirt Isaac M. or Singer cage crinoline invents is first Ebeneezer Butterick patents the the first sized, 1863 Charles Worth opens couture 1850 Morrill 1870 1861 Congress passes the Act, 1865 Eugenie and begins to design her theory of sewing evolution in Second French Republic 1861 -1865 publication 1867 1869 Queen Victoria continues to occupy thein practical introduced machine. paper pattern for clothing. Emancipation Proclamation ends slavery Reunification of Italy establishment in Paris establishing Land Grant Colleges Abraham Lincoln is assassinated clothes The Origin of the Species becomes the Second Empire Civil War in the United States British Throne United Transcontinental States purchases Alaska from the Russians railroad completed the United States
1850 1851 1867
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
1852
1852 1869
1857
1858 1859
1860
1861
1862
1863
1865
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869
The style lines for womens dress at the beginning of the crinoline period were like those of the late Romantic Period.
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The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c. 1857 contributed to the continuing popularity of very wide skirts.
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Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in the 16th and 18th Centuries.
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Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor.
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Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, womens rights advocates had attempted to reform womens dress proposing the bloomer dress. The support provided by hoops helped to make womens skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and the bloomer costume faded away.
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Womens under drawers were made of cotton.

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Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise.

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Over the chemise, went a corset.

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Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover.

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Next, the hoop was added.
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And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel.
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Dresses were usually two piece, had a full gathered or pleated skirt, and a dropped shoulder line.
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Daytime dresses had high necks Evening dresses had low, often off-the-shoulder necklines
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CHAPTER THIRTEEN
To go outdoors any of several garments might be worn. A shawl like this striped silk shawl, or a Kashmir shawl, which had remained popular since the beginning of the century A short jacket A cape or mantle in either a short or longer length
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Accessories of Note
Under sleeves and Chemisette Footwear
Parasol
Misers Purse
Jewelry
A Carriage or Folding Parasol

CHAPTER THIRTEEN
A mans undergarments included under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt.
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Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat.
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And over that trousers, held up by suspenders.
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Next, a vest.
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Men could choose from several different jacket types.

Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear Frock coat for daytime Sack jacket for less formal occasions
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For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats.
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Accessories of Note
Suspenders or Braces Hats
Pocket Watch and Fob
Ties
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Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were dressed much as adults.
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With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that became know as the haute couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal women from all over the world.
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Military conflicts inspired some styles

The Garibaldi Blouse was adapted from the red shirts worn by General Giuseppe Garibaldis soldiers Zouave jackets, worn by Algerian soldiers, were adopted by an American Civil War regiment.
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CHAPTER THIRTEEN
Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes specifically for bathing and riding horseback.
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By the end of the 1860s, the fashionable silhouette had changed. It featured:
Skirt Not fullness a gathered, A higher moved but waistline more a gored to the skirt back.
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For Further Study

Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://www.tfc.unt.edu/25/ Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/ Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/costume/ Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html 19th Century Shoes http://www.northampton.gov.uk/site/scripts/documents_info.php?documentID=142& pageNumber=8
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For Further Study

Paisley Shawls http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/paisley/paisleyex2.html http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/shawls/dp_index.htm Hoopskirts http://www.greenlightwrite.com/hoopskirt.htm http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/2000/156.html http://www.demodecouture.com/crinoline/ Charles F. Worth, Couturier http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.
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Image Credits
Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York Public Library of Digital Images. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, www.antique-lace.com Image of Cage Crinoline, c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke, www.suziclarke.co.uk Image of Harpers Front Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward, www.magazineart.org Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, www.trousseau.net Image of Drawers, c. 1850-1860, courtesy of Donna Neary, www.heritagestudio.com Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, www.antiquedress.com Image of Farthingale and Panier, courtesy of www.farthingales.on.ca Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of the Garibaldi Blouse, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of Swimwear, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, www.antique-fashion.com Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; www.clipart.com; Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.
CHAPTER THIRTEEN

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CHAPTER

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD

Clickanywhereintheslidetoviewthenextitemonthe slideortoadvancetothenextslide.Usethebuttons belowtonavigatetoanotherpage,close the presentationortoopenthehelppage.

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Copyright 2010 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6 GST R 133004424

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Important Events Influenced Styles of the Crinoline Period

Click to advance through the time line

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Click image to toggle view CHAPTER THIRTEEN

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Click to rotate 360 CHAPTER THIRTEEN

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Womens under drawers were made of cotton.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Over the chemise, went a corset.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Next, the hoop was added.

Click on image to rotate 360

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Click on image to Enlarge

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

A Carriage or Folding Parasol

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

And over that trousers, held up by suspenders.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications

Men could choose from several different jacket types.

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

2010 Fairchild Books, A Division of Cond Nast Publications