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FASHION All eyes on you:

THE DRESS YOU CAN C WEAR TO EVERY PARTY


DANCE-ALLNIGHT HEELS 30 PERFECT BAGS

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ON LIFE AFTER CORY THERE ARE SO MANY ASPECTS OF THIS THAT PEOPLE ARE NOT INVITED TO KNOW

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AERIN Beauty, DIST.

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INTRODUCING

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MAYBE SHES BORN WITH IT. MAYBE I TS MAYBELLINE.


Emily is wearing New Color Elixir by Color Sensational in Signature Scarlet. 2013 Maybelline LLC.

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A R T D I R : PA U L M A R C I A N O

GUESS?2013

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DISCOVER OUR VISION OF SKIN PERFECTION.

1 Tempted by a cosmetic procedure? Reconsider. WorldMags.net

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SO EFFECTIVE 1 OUT OF 2 WOMEN WOULD POSTPONE A COSMETIC PROCEDURE.1


Visionnaire serum, our advanced skin corrector honored with 94 international awards. This fast-acting serum3 shows visible results in just 1 week.4 Wrinkles2, pores2 and unevenness are visibly corrected. Clinically proven on multiple ethnicities.5 NEW Visionnaire Eye. Now, our ultimate corrector for the eye, containing our innovative molecule LR 2412. See visible results on dark circles in just 4 weeks. Wrinkles and uneven texture around the eye area are visibly corrected for a smoother eye contour.

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1 After 4 weeks of use of Visionnaire face serum by women 35-49 years old tempted by hyaluronic acid, laser, or chemical peeling, 1 out of 2 women decided to postpone a cosmetic procedure. Results not equal to a medical procedure. 2Clinical Study. 3Firming results at 30 minutes and 4 hours. 4Based on self-assessment. After one week of use. 5Multi-ethnic study test conducted on the 6 Fitzpatrick phototypes.

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2013 CHANEL, Inc. J 12

Watch in high-tech ceramic. Moonphase complication with aventurine counter. Available in classic or diamond version. CHANEL BOUTIQUES 800.550.0005 CHANEL.COM

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ONLY AT MACYS AND MACYS.COM

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Thursday, December 5

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Wednesday, December 4

LORD OF THE RINGS On the eve of Art Basel Miami Beach, celeb-loved jeweler Eddie Borgo and luxe South Beach retailer The Webster throw a VIP bash for their collection of six signature Borgo styles, reimagined in an exclusive crystal-and-gold finish. Hoi polloi can shop the pieces (including this $500 five-knuckle-duster) online, today.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 31

NIGHT SHIFT Best known for flattering A-listers with her slim silhouettes, LWren Scott debuts a line for Banana Republic, including a series of party-perfect dresses. And at under $165 each, theyre less than half of what youll shell out for that Vitamix come January 1.

DECEMBER
THE ELLE MUST-DO
Checklist
Tuesday, December 3

Celebs get iced-out for the annual UNICEF Snowflake Thursday, December 5 Sheryl Sandberg leans into the TEDWomen 2013 conference in San Sunday, December 29Tuesday, December 31 The yearly SnowGlobe electronic music fest lights up Lake Tahoe.

Friday, December 27

13
32 CALENDAR

Friday, December 13

BIG CHILL The Crash Reel, Oscar nominee Lucy Walkers heart-wrenching doc about charismatic, Shaun Whiterivaling snowboarder Kevin Pearce, whose career was forever roadblocked by a near-fatal accident, gets its muchdeserved theatrical release.

SHOW GIRL Britney is to Vegas what Red Bull is to vodka: a recipe for mayhem. Today, Spears, who just dropped her eighth album, begins a slated two-year residency at Planet Hollywood and effectively overshoots the ideal Sin City bender by 728 days.

Wednesday, December 11

Happy 17th birthday,

HAILEE STEINFELD

I make my films to thrill and inspire myself, to satisfy my own curiosity, and to walk a mile in somebody elses shoes, says The Crash Reel director Lucy Walker.

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Clockwise from top: Courtesy of the designer; Jean Baptiste Lacroix/WireImage/Getty Images; Donato Sardella/WireImage/ Getty Images; Cole Barash; KP Rides Again, LLC; courtesy of Banana Republic (2)

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For eyes.

clinique.com Clinique Laboratories, LLC

Clinique creates an eye shadow revolution.


We cant stop playing with these sheer shadows. 12 long-last shades. Simple to use. No mirror needed. Chubby Stick Shadow Tint For Eyes. Starting now, were all makeup artists. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free.
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Wednesday, December 4

Dont miss Tracey Emin: Angel Without You, the first American museum exhibition dedicated to the controversial Brit artist, now at the Museum of Contemporary Art, North Miami. Focusing exclusively on neon signage, the show features more than 60 beaming and brutally honest messages, scrawled in Emins own hand.

DECEMBER
THE ELLE MUST-DO
Checklist
Sunday, December 1

21
Saturday, December 21

Toms Marketplace serves up perfect presents from 32 socially conscious brands Thursday, December 5 Suno debuts 10 of its signature crop tops and cutout dresses in three exuberant prints exclusively for the Webster at Art Basel Miami Beach.

3 1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 0 11 1 12 1 2 13 13 14 1 4 15 15 16 1 6 17 1 7 18 1 8 19 1 9 20 2 0 21 2 22 23 3 24 4 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Tuesday, December 31

Diane von Furstenberg and DJ Harley VieraNewtons felineinspired iPod accessories are the perfect companions for New Years Eve which just happens to be DVFs sixtyseventh birthday.

Dont miss Gagosian Beverly Hills latest exhibition, Avedon: Women, covering six decades of the photographers shots of such unforgettable ladies as Mia Farrow (right). Another must-see is the cinematic Alex Prager: Face in the Crowd at DCs Corcoran Gallery (above).

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Wednesday, December 25

Ne last-minute gifts? Costume bijoux favorite Alexis Bittar Need is branching out into fine jewelry with a glam range of gold and pav diamond bangles (right), while Pamela Love has joined forces on a capsule collection with adornment-witha-cause line Liberty United, whose pieces are made from melted-down assault weapons and bullets (left).

WorldMags.net 34 FASHION CALENDAR

Richard Avedon got his start in fashion early: His father ran a successful Manhattan dress shop called Avedons on Fifth Avenue.

Clockwise from top left: Tracey Emin/courtesy of Lehmann Maupin, New York, Hong Kong and White Cube, London; Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Kristy Vant for Mark Edward Inc.) (3); cover of Avedon: Women catalog featuring Donyale Luna, dress and sandals by Paco Rabanne, New York, December 6, 1966, and Mia Farrow, actress, New York, January 15, 1966: The Richard Avedon Foundation and Gagosian Gallery, photographs The Richard Avedon Foundation; courtesy of the artist, Lehmann Maupin, New York and Hong Kong, Yancey Richardson Gallery, New York and M+B Gallery, Los Angeles

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For lips.

clinique.com Clinique Laboratories, LLC

Chubby Stick for lips. No mirror required.


Expressive colour. Chubby Stick and Chubby Stick Intense Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm. Layerable, long-wearing colour in 24 shades from sheer to intense. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free.
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ROBERTOCOIN.COM

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COCKTAIL RING COLLECTION

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Waris Ahluwalia & Quentin Jones make art. #makelove WorldMags.net

2013 CHANEL, Inc. COCO, The Classic Bottle,

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282
ON THE COVER FASHION
137, 185, 271 ELLE FASHION: THE LOOK, TRENDS, AND ACCESSORIES

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106 ROCK THE CASBAH

Gladiator-gold dresses, fringed heels, and glittering leather handbags battle the winter doldrums
185 GIFT GUIDE

Sabine Heller, CEO of A Small World, takes a trip to Essaouira, Morocco. By Amanda FitzSimons
114 LEAVE IT TO BEAVER

272
174 YOUNG AT HEART 176 GLOBAL ENTRY

173 ELLE FASHION NEWS

The ELLE editors present their favorite, foolproof picks for this holiday season
232 THE BRUSH-OFF

Its warm! Its worn! Donning her vintage beaver coat, Pamela Erens reluctantly joins the fur debate

Vintage-inspired bathing suits by Wren x Lake & StarsMaison Martin Margielas collection for Atelier Swarovski is scientifically sensationalTia Cibanis fanciful ready-to-wearand more! Rashida Jones fine-jewelry capsule collection features whimsical charms. By Vronique Hyland For international jet-setter Bertha Gonzlez Nieves, Farfetch is an online shopping mecca. By Alison S. Cohn

The key to great makeup is (literally!) at 118 ALFRESCO your fingertips. By Celia Ellenberg Carl Swanson finds curator Cecilia Alemani charmingly good-humored
246 UNITED FRONT

London facialists or New York derms? 122 EXHIBIT A Julie Schott takes a trip across the pond to Is anything better than art and fashion in nab some tips from our British pals one attractive package? Alison S. Cohn and Vronique Hyland think not
250 GIRL-ON-GIRL POWER

Lizzy Goodman reports on the trend of young, once-straight women leaving their husbands for female partners
282 BRAVE HEART

126 RED ROVER

Valentino designer Maria Grazia Chiuri 178 NEW YORK MINUTE lets her daughter take the wheel in a The ELLE FASHION | NEXT winners charity race. By Zo Wolff wow with a peach dress and plaid overcoat. By Alison S. Cohn
128 BIG HUNGER
CONTINUED ON PAGE 56
ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXIX, Number 4) (December 2013) is published monthly by Hearst Communications, Inc., 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 U.S.A. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. Hearst Magazines Division: David Carey, President; John P. Loughlin, Executive Vice President and General Manager; John A. Rohan, Jr., Senior Vice President, Finance. 2013 by Hearst Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. The ELLE trademark and logo are owned in Canada by France-Canada Editions et Publications, Inc. and in the rest of the world by Hachette Filipacchi Presse (France), each LAGARDRE ACTIVE Group companies. ELLE is used under license from the trademark owners. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Canada Post International Publications mail product (Canadian distribution) sales agreement No. 40012499. Editorial and Advertising Offices: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. Subscription prices: United States and possessions: $15 for one year. Canada: $48 for one year. Other international locations: $87 for one year. Subscription Services: ELLE will, upon receipt of a complete subscription order, undertake fulfillment of that order so as to provide the first copy for delivery by the Postal Service or alternate carrier within 46 weeks. From time to time, we make our subscriber list available to companies that sell goods and services by mail that we believe would interest our readers. If you would rather not receive such mailings, please send your current mailing label or an exact copy to: ELLE, Mail Preference Service, P.O. Box 6000, Harlan, IA 51593. For customer service, changes of address, and subscription orders, log on to service .elle.com or write to Customer Service Dept., ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. To assure quicker service, enclose your mailing label when writing to us or renewing your subscription. Renewal orders must be received at least eight weeks prior to expiration to assure continued service. Manuscripts, drawings, and other material submitted must be accompanied by a stamped, self-addressed envelope. ELLE cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. Printed in USA. Canadian registration number 126018209RT0001. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 707.4.12.5); NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Harlan, IA 51593.

134 A TO ZEE: ITS ABOUT TIME

ELLE Creative Director Joe Zee amps up decade dressing with Meagan Good
168 WORKBOOK: GREY LADY

310 300
48 CONTENTS

Kyle DeWoodycocreator of the e-commerce site Grey Areashows Cotton Codinha the art of nine-to-five dressing

DECEMBER 2013 VOLUME XXIX NUMBER 4 NO.340

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Clockwise from top left: Carter Smith; Frederike Helwig; Dan Forbes; David Bellemere

Glee star Lea Michele laughs, cries, and finallyreally talks. By Lizzy Goodman. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Joe Zee

In East Africa, Lauren Bush Lauren works with local artisans to raise funds for free school meals. By Jessica Hatcher

2013 Cartier

Explore and Shop www.cartier.us - 1-800-cartier

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New Collection

2013 Cartier

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New Collection

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Life is beautiful Choose your own path to happiness.

The new Eau de Parfum


Discover at lancome.com

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# EMBRACETHE PRESENT
LE T US GIF T GUID E YOU THROUGH THE HO LIDAYS KENNE TH C O LE .C O M

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232
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 48

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225

314 THE MASTER

264 AFRAID TO GO DEEP

Oscar de la Renta on retro-debutante elegance. By Daphne Merkin. Photographed by Thomas Whiteside. Styled by Samira Nasr
FEATURES
209 ELLE INTELLIGENCE

Tired of wading in the shallow end, Irina Aleksander faces her most paralyzing fear
268 ASK E. JEAN

180 MOTORCYCLE DIARIES

Relationship hell? E. Jean Carroll to the rescue!


272 WOMEN IN ART

Belstaffs new flagship store opens to the revving of 50 enginesand David Beckham on a bike. By Alison S. Cohn
292 ON THE ROAD

Nostalgic day trips get a modern makeover with embroidered dresses, driving gloves, and menswear-inspired tweed jackets. Photographed by Cedric Buchet. Styled by Sabina Schreder
300 SENSEI SENSIBILITY

Meryl Streep and Julia Roberts face off in August: Osage CountyProvocative art books are intelligent icebreakersthe on-screen mean girls we love to hateand more!
218 JONG-IAN THEORY

We celebrate eight women who find beauty amid unstable times. By Linda Yablonsky. Photographed by Frederike Helwig. Styled by Samira Nasr. Curated by Cary Leitzes
320 HUSTLE AND FLOW

E. Jean Carroll visits inimitable Fear of New dad Jeremy Renner talks love and Flying author Erica Jong to discuss water strip clubs. By Mickey Rapkin beds, motherhood, and sex with strangers CONTINUED ON PAGE 60

These wide-leg trousers, leather sandals, 257 STATE OF PLAYA and satin tops have the high-impact grace Alison S. Cohn meets Candela designer of the martial arts. Photographed by Gabriela Perezutti Hearst in Uruguay David Bellemere. Styled by Samira Nasr
260 EYES WIDE OPEN 310 STARGAZER

248

Embellished accessories make the holidays shine bright. Photographed by Dan Forbes. Styled by Maria Dueas Jacobs

On the eve of a major retrospective, artist Carrie Mae Weems talks with Michael J. Agovino about winning a MacArthur and about the American imagination

250 137 246


56 CONTENTS

Lea Michele (left) wears a cotton canvas jacket from Ralph Lauren Collection, cotton-blend jeans from Frame Denim, diamond earrings from Jack Vartanian, a silver and rose gold necklace by Tiffany & Co., a ruby, mother-of-pearl, and rose gold ring from Pomellato, a metal and leather vintage Chanel belt from Depuis1924.com, and a metal charm and leather vintage Chanel belt from Madison Avenue Couture. Michele (right) wears an appliqu-embroidered dress from Tom Ford. To get her makeup look, try Infallible The Super Slim liner, Infallible 24 HR Eye Shadow in Eternal Black, Telescopic Shocking Extensions mascara in Blackest Black, and Colour Riche Balm in Pink Satin, all by LOral Paris. Photographed by Carter Smith; styled by Joe Zee; hair by Harry Josh at HarryJosh.com; makeup by Polly Osmond at Exposure NY; manicure by Ashlie Johnson for The Wall Group; props by Steve Halterman for Stardust Brands; produced by Cat Farber for Portfolio One.

DECEMBER 2013 VOLUME XXIX NUMBER 4 NO.340

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Clockwise from top left: Alexander Straulino/Trunk Archive; Bruno Staub; Mikael Schulz; Jeff Harris/Studio D (5); Stefan Giftthaler/Thelicensingproject.com; Raf Stahelin; Carsten Witte/thelicensingproject.com

209

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SEA TO SKIN a daily transformation


Born from the healing powers of the sea, Crme de la Mer is infused with potent, cell-renewing Miracle Broth. Carefully crafted from nutrient-rich sea kelp, it immerses skin in moisture and energy. Radiance is restored, ne lines fade, skin looks softer, rmer, virtually ageless. Even the driest complexions are healed. LaMer.com

B L O O M I N G DA L E S - N O R D S T R O M

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Look & Feel 7 Years Younger


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Turn back the clock! In just seven weeks on this anti-aging plan, you can rejuvenate your skin, rehab your diet and exercise, sharpen your mind, and learn which makeup and hair products will help you look your youngest.
FOLLOW THIS PLAN ! IT WORKS
Dr. Oz

Available at 7yearsyounger.com/book PLUS


Get 3 free gifts packed with anti-aging advice to keepeven if you decide to return the book!

FOOD LOVERS

Cookbook

LOSS MADE EASY


Your real-world guide to slimming down: smart, scientifically proven strategies that really work

WEIGHT

MAKE LUST
You love your husband dearly. But where did that early, heady newlywed excitementand lustgo? To help rekindle the spark, follow this smart (and sexy!) advice. Well show you how to F Put your marriage first (even when work, the kids, and the laundry are begging for attention) F Stop squabbling with your guywe have a foolproof plan for keeping the peace F Create easy dates (not only at night!) that bring you closer, even when youre tight on time F Generate some heat between the sheets

LAST

recipes are waiting inside to become your new favorites. Each is quick, healthy, and delicious!

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Join us on facebook.com/7yearsyounger and get the most out of our plan! Visit 7yearsyounger.com/shop for our recommended beauty products.

TESTED AND APPROVED BY THE GOOD HOUSEKEEPING RESEARCH INSTITUTE

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From the Editors of The New York Times bestseller 7 Years Younger

LOSE 20 POUNDS
and TURN BACK THE CLOCK!
Introducing the rst diet scientically proven to help you lose weight and reverse the signs of aging. Shed pounds! Look and feel younger!

WorldMags.net Ground-breaking science helps you

TRY IT FREE FOR 21 DAYS!

In just 7 weeks, you could lose 20 pounds or more as you: Feast on natures best wrinkleghting foods Choose delicious meals and still stay on the plan Give your skin a youthful, golden glow Tone up and slim down one small step at a time

Im down 30 lbs and three sizes!


Mary Marotta, Diet Panelist*
After just 7 weeks on the plan, our 26 test panelists lost a total of more than 325 lbs and 105 inches!

Start your 21 day FREE TRIAL today and get a FREE GIFT just for looking! www.7yearsyounger.com/diet

Tested and approved by the Good Housekeeping Research Institute WorldMags.net *An average person following this plan should expect to lose 1-2 lbs. a week.

HOT CONTENTS WorldMags.net

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 56

BEAUTY, HEALTH & FITNESS


225 NIGHT VISION

The prettiest party makeup: smoky and smudged. By Elyse Moody


238 VISION QUEST

Oxidized sterling silver and pav diamond necklace, ROBINDIRA UNSWORTH, $650, robindira.com

173 ELLE FASHION NEWS

Whether collecting high art or injecting hyaluronic acid, Fredric Brandt, MD, does it right. By April Long
248 IT LIST

NORTHERN PEARL LIGHTS WONDERFUL


Robindira Unsworth, beloved in Hollywood for her druzy quartz pendants, is reaching for the stars with her holiday capsule collection of pav diamond rings, earrings, and necklaces. The pieces, set in antique-looking oxidized sterling silver, are a first step into fine jewelry for the Sonoma Countybased designer and are true to her glamorousbut still earthy aesthetic.

185 ELLE SHOPS

IN EVERY ISSUE 32 CALENDAR 34 FASHION CALENDAR 86 EDITORS LETTER 90 REPLY ALL 102 BEHIND THE COVER 104 CONTRIBUTORS 185 ELLE SHOPS 316 SHOPPING GUIDE 318 HOROSCOPE
137 ELLE TRENDS

ELLES TOP SHOP: Pearl Wonderful Clothing, 1219C Main Street, St. Helena, CA; 707-963-3236 WHATS THERE: Owner Linda Bradshaw Allen and her team of four other stylists have tempted customers for more than 13 years with their small-townshop-meets-global-style aesthetic; the well-curated

PROJECTED WAIT-LIST ITEMS:

Confetti-patterned highrise denim from Mother and Jin Seos luxe lifestyle collection for 51 Inc. PLAYLIST: An easygoing mix, from Jay Z and Adele to Muse and Kings of Leon capturing the 60s and early 70s in striking detail and with unassuming candor. Huston grew up among the artists (Peter OToole, John Steinbeck) her famous father, film director John Huston, and her glamorous former ballerina mother, Enrica Soma, drew to their Ireland estate, and Swinging London colored her teen years (Marianne Faithfull gifted Huston her own red fox coat). She recounts posing for David Bailey, Helmut Newton, Dick Avedon (who understood glamour like no other photographer), and Bob Richardson (who seduced her into a troubling affair) and walking the Halston and Zandra Rhodes runways. Hustons A-list anecdotes and personal insights leave us eager to read her next chapter.Elyse Moody

PATTERN PLAY Its all about printed matter this month,


from tiny stars to giant flowersand two-tone color stamping
Cady silk skirt, N21, $565, collection at modaoperandi.com

209 ELLE INTEL

BOTH SIDES NOW


Printed dress, GUESS , $89, collection at macys.com Leather tote, FENDI, $2,550, at Fendi, NYC

If you know Anjelica Huston mainly from Smash or as a Wes Anderson matriarch, then her coming-of-age memoir, A Story Lately Told (Scribner), will fill you in on her heady early days in film and fashion,

60 CONTENTS

DECEMBER 2013 VOLUME XXIX NUMBER 4 NO.340

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Clockwise from top left: Cliff Watts/Trunk Archive; courtesy of the designer; John Klycinski; Philip Friedman/Studio D; Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); courtesy of the designer; Philip Friedman/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents)

CLOTHING

selections include Isabel Marant toiles downtown boho-chic separates and vintage bejeweled baubles. VIBE: The high-ceilinged shop is cozily evocative of family-owned stores from the 50s and 60s, with exposed stone and burnished copper accents for a laid-back atmosphere.

2013 Garnier LLC.

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HAIRCOLOR WILL NEVER BE THE SAME.


OUR 1ST OIL POWERED, AMMONIA-FREE PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR
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Try it and share your story at garnierUSA.com/olia LAURA IS WEARING OLIA SHADE 6.60 LIGHT INTENSE AUBURN.
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KARLIE

SEE THE FILM AT COACH.COM #COACHNEWYORKSTORIES

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2013 COACH

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GUEST BLOGGER

PRIYANKA CHOPRA

CHOPRAS WorldMags.net BOLLYWOOD STYLE ICONS

Whats next for the Bollywood A-lister and international pop star? Blogging for ELLE.com
DIMPLE KAPADIA
A perennial trendsetter ever since her Bollywood debut at 16, Kapadias contemporary look was always the rage.
Clockwise from top left: Martin Prihoda; Dinodia Photos/Alamy; Everett Collection; Everett Collection/Mondadori Portfolio; Mary Evans/RK Films Ltd./Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; Emil Nava

KAJOL
This star made waves in designer clothes in 1998s Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, fashion-obsessed director Karan Johars first film.

Unfamiliar with Priyanka Chopra, the most soughtafter actress in Bollywood? At this point, you just might be aloneshe has more than 5 million Facebook fans and 4 million Twitter followers. And although shes long been ubiquitous in India, Chopra isnt one to settle for anything less than global icon statushence her swift, chart-topping entre into pop music this past year. Judging by her anthemic dance-pop collaborations with the likes of will.i.am (In My City, which landed her the 2013 theme song of the NFL Networks Thursday Night Football ) and Pitbull (Exotic), shes certainly on her way. And this month, Chopra adds ELLE.com blogger-in-residence to her glinting rsum.

PARVEEN BABI
An on- and offscreen sex symbol, her overall fashion quotient elevated celebrity style and the perception of Hindi film heroines.

THE X FACTOR
Though Chopras first album wont drop until early 2014, the singer is already well versed in the ways of a seasoned pro. In India, we dont really have pop music, Chopra says of her seamless crossover abilities. Since all of [my] movies are

musicals, film actors become pop acts. But very few of them actually sing their own music. So its exciting for me to be doing thisno ones ever done it before. Visit ELLE.com for an exclusive look at Chopras style and travel tips, her latest videos and photos, a behind-the-scenes interview with one of the artists on her upcoming album (hint: you know you want it!), and more.

ZEENAT AMAN
Another iconic, Westernized actress [in 1978s Satyam Shivam Sundaram: Love Sublime, above]. She popularized the bikini in India.

64 ELLE.COM Preview

to six movies a year. When she finds time for a break, Chopra beelines it to WorldMags.net the nearest spa: Find her favorite retreats at ELLE.com/priyankachopra.

Hows this for a working girl? On top of her solo projects, Chopra makes up

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WHERE STYLE MEETS SERENITY & BEAUTY KNOWS NO BOUNDS


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You know what they say in fashion: Two is a look; three is a trend. And judging by the countless tastemakersbloggers, consultants, and fashion-news magnates alikesporting head-to-toe white with veteran ease these days, it seems that sure as beanies and moto boots, postLabor Day bleach is the newest winter institution. Here, we break down the cream of the crop. To get ahead of the trends on a daily basisespecially the ones that start on the streetvisit ELLEs personal-style blog at ELLE.com/news/street-chic-daily

FADE TO WHITE

CLEAN LINES
The simple shape of this timeless topper plays nice with equestrian-inspired add-ons.

HALF AND HALF


Tough ankle booties and a girly knit cap make light of a prim mock turtleneck and matching A-line skirt.

LEATHER UP
A cropped leather jacket adds edge to a traditionally summertime frock.

IN THE FOLD
From her grown-out summer highlights to her breezy, muted layers, this lady in white screams effortless chic.

SHRUG IT OFF
Pleated skirt + worn-in tee + draped coat + fuss-free updo = uptown polish for the downtown set.

HOW TO WEAR IT

Because theres a fine line between monochromatic moxie and feeling like the Michelin Man, ELLE Fashion Director Samira Nasr gives us a master class on how to tame the seasons coolest look

I never understood when people would say, These blacks dont match, Nasr says. Its the same with wearing white: If you want to look cool, dont wear the same shade or texture head to toe. Whether or not your whites are perfectly synced, always add an unexpected element: If youre rocking an optic white shirt and pants, do something else with your shoe, she advises, suggesting a classic black pump for a modern touch. Another

way to make the look your own? Incorporating all pales and pastelseven in your haircan make the motif feel less formal. And if this whole thing still seems a little too far left of Lincoln Center, Nasr recommends go-with-everything sneakers, such as Nike Frees or Converse Chuck Taylors. We saw so much sport in Milan and on the street, she says. It will continueand will definitely become more feminine.Justine Harman

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ELLE Fashion Director Samira Nasrs must-have shoe for spring 2014? The mule. We saw so many for resort, she says. Theyre gonna be huge.

Clockwise from top left: Jessica Weber: Blaublut Edition/Trunk Archive; Stockholm StreetStyle: Blaublut Edition/Trunk Archive; Jessica Weber: Blaublut Edition/Trunk Archive; Frenchy Style: Blaublut Edition/Trunk Archive; Melanie Galea: TheStreetMuse/Trunk Archive; Stockholm-streetstyle.com

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R O B E R TA M Y E R S Editor-in-Chief
JOE ZEE
Creative Director

PA U L R I T T E R
Design Director
A N N E S LOW E Y EM I LY D O U GH ERT Y M AG G I E B U L LO CK SA M I R A NAS R L AU R I E A B R A H A M J OA N N PA I L E Y

Fashion News Director

Beauty & Fitness Director

Deputy Editor

Fashion Director

Features Director

Market Director

D O U GL AS BAU G H M A N

M A R IA D U E A S JACO B S

J EN N I FER W EI S EL

Managing Editor

Accessories Director
FASHION

Entertainment Director

Senior Market Editor JA D E FR A M P TO N Credits Editor AL L I S O N WAT T ER S Accessories Editors J EN N I FER GACH , CA R O L I N E GR O S S O Assistant Editor SA R A H S CH U S S H EI M Assistant Credits Editor CA I T L I N M U L L EN Assistants YAS H UA S I M M O N S , RYA N T R I S TA N J I N , AY L I N U LU TAS Fashion Editor-at-Large LO R I G O L D S T EI N
FEAT U R ES

Senior Features Editors B EN W. D I CK I N S O N , L I SA CH AS E Senior Editor RACHEL BAKER Associate Editor, Living A M A N DA FI T Z S I M O N S Fashion News Editors V R O N I Q U E H Y L A N D, AL I S O N S . CO H N Associate Editor S E T H PL AT T N ER Assistant Editors J U S T I N E H A R M A N , N AO M I R O U G E AU, CAT H ER I N E S T R AU T Editorial Assistant COT TO N CO D I N H A
B EAU T Y AN D FITN ES S

Executive Beauty Editor A PR I L LO N G Editor J U L I E S CH OT T Assistant Editor L AU R EN EL L I OT T


AR T AN D D ES I G N

Associate Art Directors DA N I EL FI S H ER , ELV I S C R UZ , J I L L S ER R A WILDE International Coordinator M O N I Q U E B O N I O L Assistant Managing Editor M EL I S SA J E W S B U RY
PH OTO G R APHY

Photo Director BA R BA R A GR O GA N Associate Photo Editors A M EL I A H O FFM A N , A L E X A N D R A B R AW L E Y


COPY/R ES EARCH

Director of Copy and Research H E AT H ER M C CA B E Research Editor B R EN D N CU M M I N GS Copy Editor ELYS E M O O DY Associate Research Editor M EG PR O S S N I T Z
PRO D U C TIO N

Group Production Director K A R EN OT TO Group Production Manager D IA N E A R LOT TA Associate Production Manager CEL ES T E J O H N N Y Digital Imaging Specialist R EB ECCA I OVA N Editorial Business Manager CA R O L LUZ
ELLE .CO M

General Manager, Fashion & Beauty, Digital Media M EL A N I E S CH N U R I GER Editor, Digital Media L E A H CH ER N I KO FF Fashion News Editor L AU R EN L E V I N S O N Social Media Editor K AT E W I N I CK Editor-at-Large R ACH A EL CO M B E Contributing Editors R U T H S H AL I T BA R R E T T, CA R L EN E BAU ER , SA R A H B ER N A R D, B L I S S B R OYA R D, N I N A B U R L EI GH , E. J E A N CA R R O L L , L I SA D E PAU LO, K A R EN D U R B I N , A N D R E W G O L D M A N , J ES S E GR EEN , TA M Z I N G R EEN H I L L , CAT H I H A N AU ER , N A N CY H A S S , EL I Z A B E T H H AY T, J O S EPH H O O P ER , LO U I S A K A M P S , R U T H DAV I S KO N I GS B ER G, DA PH N E M ER K I N , H O L LY M I L L E A , S U SA N M I L L ER , B R I A N M O L LOY, CO CO M Y ER S , DA N I S H A PI R O, L I SA S H E A , L AU R EN S L AT ER , R EB ECCA T R A I S T ER
WO R LD S LEADI N G FAS H I O N MAGA Z I N E 4 4 I N T E R NATI O N AL E D ITI O N S

H EAR S T MAGA Z I N ES I NT E R NATI O NAL


P re s i d e n t , C E O D U N CA N EDWA R D S S e n i o r V i c e P re s i d e n t , C F O , a n d G e n e ra l Ma n a ge r S I M O N H O R N E S e n i o r V i c e P re s i d e n t , In t e r n a t i o n a l P u b l i s h i n g D i re c t o r J E A N N E T T E C H A N G S e n i o r V i c e P re s i d e n t , E d i t o r i a l D i re c t o r K I M S T. CL A I R B O D D EN E x e c u t i v e D i re c t o r, E d i t o r i a l A S T R I D O. B ER TO N C I N I C re a t i v e D i re c t o r P E T ER YAT ES Fa s h i o n a n d E n t e r t a i n m e n t D i re c t o r K R I S T EN I N G ER S O L L

Founding Editor R G I S PAG N I EZ


For information on reprints and e-prints, please contact Brian Kolb at Wrights Reprints, 877-652-5295 or bkolb@wrightsreprints.com. ELLE is published by Hearst Communications Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. The ELLE trademark and logo are owned in Canada by France-Canada Editions et Publications, Inc. and in the rest of the world by Hachette Filipacchi Presse (France), each Lagardre Active Group companies. ELLE is used under license from the trademark owners. Copyright 2013.

P R I N T ED I N T H E U N I T ED S TAT ES O F A M ER I CA

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WorldMags.net S E P H O R A .CO M /G I F TS

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K E V I N C . O M A L L E Y
Senior Vice President, Publisher, and Chief Revenue Officer
Associate Publisher B L A I R S CH LU M B O M
Executive Director, Brand Development/Integrated Marketing L IZ HODGES

Finance Director M A R GA R E T M. H E ALY Advertising Director J U S T I N TA R Q U I N I O


ADVERTISING Senior Executive Director, Beauty A N N A A R A M A N Executive Director, Fashion/Retail PAU L A F O RTGA N G Executive Director, Luxury Products BARBARA BOULWARE Senior Director, Fashion S TAC E Y CA L L A H A N Beauty Directors ANDREA FOSTER, J I L L S C H L A N G ER -S L I V K A International Fashion Manager H A L E Y K AT Z Account Manager H O L L A N D CA S E Y Direct Response Senior Account Manager A N G EL A H R O N O P O U LO S Advertising Sales Coordinator L AU R A E V ELY N ELTO N Assistants CA R O LY N SAV I N O, CA S E Y S U L L I VA N Assistant to the Publisher A L E X A CO H EN B R AN D D E V E LO PM E NT & I NT EG R AT E D MARKETING Senior Director, Integrated Marketing JA S O N I. CAVA L LO Creative Services Director SA R A R O B ER T S Brand Development Director L AU R EN M U EH L E T H A L ER Copy Director H E AT H ER WAG N ER Special Events Director K AT I E C R OW N Directors, Integrated Marketing H EI D I K EL L N ER , K . Q U I N N S T U EB E Associate Art Directors TA R A M O L LOY-A KSA R , A L I C I A N I CH O L S Senior Designer LU I SA H UAYA M AV E Senior Manager, Integrated Marketing JACQ U EL I N E S TO R E Y Manager, Integrated Marketing AS H L E Y R. SW EE TI N G Manager, Brand Development AMY POTENZ A Associate Manager, Brand Development ALLISON ELIZ ABETH Associate Manager, Integrated Marketing M A R I S SA FR O B ES Associate, Special Events SARAH BELL A SL AGSVOL Designer K AT H RY N CO N N O L LY Coordinator, Creative Services S O OJ I N PA R K Coordinator, Integrated Marketing and Finance K AY L A A . KO M M ER ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Senior Advertising Services Manager D O R OT H Y M . K E A DY Associate Advertising Services Manager A M Y G R EEN H O LT Z CIRCULATION Director, Consumer Marketing H E AT H ER J. PL A N T Vice President, Retail Sales J I M M I L L ER Senior Director, Retail Sales & Marketing WILLIAM M ICHALOPOULOS ELLE D I G ITAL G RO U P Executive Director, Digital Advertising J O H N W EI S G ER B ER Digital Marketing Director M O R GA N S H EFF Director, Digital Account Management CARL EI N B ECK Associate Director, Product & Project Manager K R I S T I N M ES S I N A Account Manager J EN N A FER H A RT Associate Sales Managers EUNICE LEE, DAVID PARIS I Digital Marketing Coordinators K ATE WATSON PRINS, JUSTINE PARKER
BRANCH OFFICES WEST COAST Directors SAN DY ADAM S K I , EIL EEN R IVKI N Assistant JAI M E CERVANTES 3000 OCEAN PARK BOULEVARD, SANTA MONICA, CA 90405. TELEPHONE: 310-664-2973. FAX: 310-664-2974 MI DWEST Director A N D R E A FOS T ER Assistant AB B I E ROS E ALTHO FF ONE SOUTH WACKER DRIVE, CHICAGO, IL 60606. TELEPHONE: 312-251-5371. FAX: 312-251-5369 DETROIT Director MAR A HART FILO Assistant CI N DY GR ES HAM 2301 WEST BIG BEAVER ROAD, TROY, MI 48084. TELEPHONE: 248-614-6055 SOUTHWEST Managers LUCI N DA W EI K EL , S U M M ER N I L S S O N Assistant HAL E Y DO R AN 4217 CAMDEN AVENUE, DALLAS, TX 75206. TELEPHONE: 214-824-9008 SOUTHEAST Account Manager DOUG MAN D EL 3340 PEACHTREE ROAD NE, TOWER 100, SUITE 1550, ATLANTA, GA 30326. TELEPHONE: 404-256-3800 TH E ELL E TR AD EMARK AN D LOGO AR E OWN ED I N CANADA BY FR AN CE- CANADA EDITION S E T PU B LICATION S , I N C. AN D I N TH E R EST O F TH E WO RL D BY HACH E T TE FILI PACCH I PR ES S E (FR AN CE), E ACH L AGAR D R E ACTIVE GROU P COM PAN I ES. ELL E I S U S ED U N D ER LICEN S E FROM TH E TR AD EMARK OWN ER S.

CEO Lagardre Active DENIS OLIVENNES CEO French & International Magazine Publishing Divisions BRUNO LESOUEF Executive Vice President International FRANOIS CORUZZI Brand Management of ELLE VALERIE TORANIAN, FRANCK ESPIASSE International Director of ELLE VALERIA BESSOLO LLOPIZ Director of Editorial Co-Productions CRISTINA ROMERO Director of International Publishing Licenses & Syndication MICKAEL BERRET Print Syndication Team Manager MATHILDE DES NOS Coordinator JULIE CARON Digital Syndication Coordinator SAMIA BABACI INTERNATIONAL AD SALES HOUSE: LAGARDRE GLOBAL ADVERTISING International Commercial Director NELLY STREICHENBERGER nelly.streichenberger@lagardere-active.com LAGARDRE GLOBAL ADVERTISING: 124 RUE DANTON, 92300 LEVALLOIS-PERRET, FRANCE BRAZIL: OLIVIER CAPOULADE ocapoulade@altinamedia.com CANADA: DANA FRANCOZ dana.francoz@publicitas.com CHINA: WENDY LIN wendy.lin@publicitas.com.cn FRANCE & BELGIUM: PHILIPPE LEONARD philippe.leonard@lagardere-active.com GERMANY: JULIA MEINHOLD julia.meinhold@burda.com GREECE: KATERINA VELLINI k.vellini@global-media.gr HOLLAND: PETER LANDSHEERE peter.landsheere@publicitas.com HONG KONG: MARIAM WANG mariam.wang@publicitas.com INDIA: RACHNA GULATI rachna.gulati@publicitas.com ITALY: ROBERT SCHOENMAKER rschoenmaker@hearst.it JAPAN: MAYUMI KAI kai-pbi@gol.com KOREA: JUN-WON SUH sinsegi-2@sinsegimedia.info MALAYSIA: AUDREY CHEONG audrey.cheong@publicitas.com MEXICO: ARTURO CONTRERAS arturo.contreras@publicitas.com MIDDLE EAST: IVAN MONTANARI ivanmontanari@hotmail.com SCANDINAVIA: KARIN SDERSTEN karin.sodersten@aller.se SINGAPORE: PEGGY THAY peggy.thay@publicitas.com SPAIN: MELINDA SNIDER msnider@hachette.es SWITZERLAND: PHILIPPE GIRARDOT philippe.girardot@adnative.net THAILAND: STEVEN FONG steven.fong@publicitas.com TURKEY: EMIN TAN BILGE tanbilge@medialdt.com UNITED KINGDOM: AMANDINE DUFOUR amandine.dufour@lgalondon.co.uk UNITED STATES: OLIVIER BERTON olivier.berton@publicitas.com

PU B LI S H E D BY H E AR S T CO M M U N I CATI O N S , I N C. President & Chief Executive Officer S T E V EN R. SWA RT Z Chairman W I L L I A M R. H E A R S T I I I Executive Vice Chairman FR A N K A . B EN N ACK , J R. H E AR S T MAGA Z I N ES President DAV I D CA R E Y President, Marketing & Publishing Director M I CH A EL CL I N TO N Executive Vice President & General Manager JO H N P. LO UGH L I N Editorial Director EL L EN L E V I N E Publishing Consultants GI L B ERT C. M AU R ER , M A R K F. M I L L ER
E L L E S U B S C R I P TI O N C U S TO M E R S E RVI C E: VI S I T S E RVI C E . E L L E .CO M

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OLLOW YOUR OWN LEAD


Whats the right amount of time to keep to yourself after the death of a loved one? How long before you can be seen smiling in public without being called callous, or worse? When youre very famous, as our cover girl Lea Michele is, what can you do to avoid the criticism youll receive for appearing on the Teen Choice Awards less than a month after your boyfriend, also very famous, died of a drug overdose? Not much, actually, so you should probably just do whatever feels right and best to help yourself get through it. As Michele did. She opens up to writer Lizzy Goodman this month about what its like to face such an unfathomable loss, in the public eye and in private, where real life is lived. It was heartbreaking to watch the Glee episode commemorating actor Cory Monteith, who died at age 31not long after hed left rehab to go back to workbecause the grief was etched on the faces of the cast, who seemed to be struggling to hold it together. A number of pieces in this issue are about people whove made decisions that were right for them, even if that meant serious blowback. Take writer Erica Jong, who, upon publication of her now classic novel, Fear of Flying, was ridiculed by many Big, Important Writers (read: male ones) for daring to delve into their subjectsex. On the fortieth anniversary of the book, Jong talks to our own E. Jean Carroll about sex, trusting your own talent, and living life to the absolute fullest. Fine-art photographer Carrie Mae Weems, wholl have her first, long-overdue retrospective at the Guggenheim in January, has been similarly determined to tell the stories she wants to tell, whatever the consequences. In her famous work The Kitchen Table Series (1990), Weems subject was the everyday lives of African-Americansas writer Michael J. Agovino puts it, Rarely, if ever, in art history have black women been depicted as protagonists, dealing with angst and triumph, despair and joy, sometimes nothingness. The women in Girl-on-Girl Power decided to leave their husbands, out of the conviction that being with other women was what was right for them. As Lizzy Goodman explores in her second piece for ELLE this month, research shows that female sexuality is quite fluid and is influenced by both nature and nurture, even if biological explanations have dominated the cultural discourse about sexual orientation in recent years. In the end, what moved these women was the urge to live more authentically andnot to be neglectedmore happily. Happiness is something we all hope to have plenty of this holiday month, and since everyone knows theres no joy like the joy of giving, give in to the temptations of our definitive gift guide, expertly curated by Market Director Joann Pailey, for the friend/lover/adorable child who has been niceand not too naughtythis year. And if you just happen to be your own best friend, then you can give and receive in one simple transaction. At the top of my list? Anything by the artists in our Women in Art portfolio. This is our third annual Women in Art Issue, and in addition to profiling Weems, we feature painters Ella Kruglyanskaya, Marilyn Minter, Mickalene Thomas, and Julie Mehretu; dealers Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn and Dominique Lvy; curator Clarissa Dalrymple; and philanthropist and collector Nathalie de Gunzburg, chairman of the board of the Dia Art Foundation. Each has made an indelible mark on the art world and informed the conversation about what it means to be a woman right now.

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Considering Gagas public ensembles have, thus far, included a meat dress and a giant egg, I can only imagine what she considers a hot mess look.
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UNBREAKABLE
For our October 2013 cover story, pop priestess Lady Gaga gave Nojan Aminosharei an emotionally exposed look at the woman behind the performance. At her shoot, Gaga was radiant in minimalist pieces by Dries Van Noten and Versace. Whether shes in survivor modeas she calls it, Rocky, round 12or faux-lash-less and vulnerable, ELLE readers clearly adore their Mother Monster:

WOW, the cover is AMAZING. Gaga can look enchanting at times. Kudos to she who dares to be different. So creative, so refreshing. Gaga, wish you all the best!
Tuyonkah, Eonline.com
Ruth Hogben

This 68-year-old lady loves her! I wish I had had an ounce of her style and courage when I was young.
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tackle challenging roles in Kill Your Darlings and SEXY WorldMags.net Boardwalk Empire to his candid depiction of new BEAST parenthood, it isnt hard to True Blood actor Joe Manganiello had readers head over heels when writer Mickey Rapkin uncovered his softer sideand who wouldnt fall for such a considerate, carnivorous shape-shifter? Interesting, more-thanthe-usual questions and thoughtful, revealing answers. @PrairieBrook, via Twitter Hottest GENTLEMAN ever! Your mother should be proud. @Shannyn_Maree, via Twitter @joemanganiello knows what women want (and us gays too ;-) @Kevin_Lennox, via Twitter @joemanganiello I dont believe a woman could be better off after YOU leave them. I believe most would be an inconsolable mess. @Kendred78, via Twitter Damn it! I knew hed have a girlfriendle sigh. Hes still ridiculously beautiful. Elizabeth Karpathian, via Facebook see why Huston had ELLE readers professing their love: Love this man. Just, wow. One of the greatest actors Ive ever seen, and just the sweetest person. Lisa Rose Ferrara, ELLE.com My favorite actor. What a lovely man. Helen McGlynn Nooner, ELLE.com Goes to show you how dumb the Emmy voters are for not nominating him for Boardwalk Empirehes been great in every episode since the beginning of the series. Gary P. DeBlasio, ELLE.com

In Rebel Rising (October 2013), Rebel Wilson told writer Carina Chocano, In comedy, you have to use your physicality as well, and sometimes you get criticism [for that]. Readers responded to the hot-button issue of female body image, and praised the Super Fun Night star for her intrinsic, comedic appeal: Props to ELLE for featuring Rebel Wilson! She was an undeniable scene-stealer in Pitch Perfect, and I couldnt be more excited to see her new show, Super Fun Night. Carina Chocano doesnt gloss over Wilsons size. She gushes that Wilson is beautiful, but it would be so refreshing to read a feature on someone as talented as Wilson without lengthy descriptions of her appearance. Her work speaks for itselfshes incredibly entertaining, regardless of what she looks like. Nevertheless, prior to reading this, I liked Rebel Wilson. By the end of the piece, I loved her. If shes accepting applications for a new best friend, I want to be on the top of the list. ELLE, can you hook me up with her number? Hannah Orenstein, New York City, via e-mail My new favorite actress/comedian: Shes amazing and an inspiration to every woman! Taylor Childress, ELLE.com Bring on the hilariously beautiful Rebel! @lianedw, via Twitter Shes sooooo cool its unreal. @kaatiewilcox, via Twitter

A recurring presence on MTVs The City (20082010) and host of Sundance Channels All on the Line, ELLE Creative Director Joe Zee is no stranger to sharing his style know-how on the small screen. Most recently, Joe starred in the four-part Sundance Channel series Revealing: Extravagance and had readers asking for more: Just watched Revealingloved it, especially @mrjoezee as an investigative journalist! MORE PLEASE! #revealing @KatBrzozowski, via Twitter Watching Revealing because Im a sucker for anything with @mrjoezee. Hes EVERYTHING! Lets get the Joe Zee Channel up and running!! #fab @MizzLizzee via Twitter

ZEE 100

I cry at everything, Jack Huston told Justine Harman in an interview for ELLE.com (September 2013). From his ability to

I dreamt that I met @mrjoezee. It was bliss. @cinnaminhh, via Twitter

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Send your letters to ELLE, Letters to the Editors, 300 West 57th Street, NY, NY 10019, or e-mail us at elleletters@hearst.com. Letters may be edited for length and clarity.

Wilson: Doug Inglish; Huston: Michael Stewart/WireImage/Getty Images

ANGELIC HUSTON

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PLUG IN, TUNE OUT

1 .

Our most engaging Facebook post? Chanel, of course! More than 700 readers liked or shared the story of how the designer created an empire: ELLE.com/chanel-video What do you really want to know about fashion week? How those models stay in shape. Our most-clicked-on post featured five food lessons we learned from the girls on the runway. ELLE.com/model-diet

Our constant-communication ability comes at a price, as Ben Dickinson found out in Driving Ourselves to Distraction (October 2013). The idea of device dependence elicited further thought from one ELLE reader:

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3. 4.
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We love us some Scandal, and when the stars spilled about their secret, cast-only dinner parties, we all wished we could join in. ELLE.com/celeb-dinner

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As a university senior and a member of Generation Me, ruthlessly branded as one of the most narcissistic generations thus far, I take pride in what I believe is my ability to empathize. That being said, while walking to class and bumping into students too engrossed in their phones to watch where theyre going, or while sitting in the back rows of an auditorium and watching whether students have the lecture slides up or are on Facebook, I can certainly say that Ive witnessedand participated intechnology taking away from personal interactions. If our smartphones havent buzzed in a while, we check to see if we havent mistakenly missed a groundbreaking text, e-mail, or tweet. But, while this is a problem, and Im appreciative of Alex Pangs software solutions to the distractions of the Internet and social media, the article misses out on the potential technology has for improving our relationships with friends and family. Ive never been closer with my cousin, who lives an ocean away, and though my computer and iPhone are often major distractions, theyre also my gateway to growing a family relationship that is very important to me. Julia Dawidowicz, Piscataway, NJ, via e-mail
Check us out! Instagram: @ELLEUSA Twitter: @ELLEmagazine

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Clockwise from top left: courtesy of Chanel; Pierre-Henri/Getty Images; Faran Krentcil; Stefanie Keenan/WireImage/Getty Images

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ALL REVVED UP
The ELLE team took the fashion fast track this month when shooting Glee star Lea Michele at the Orange Show Speedway in San Bernardino, California. Photographer Carter Smith: We riffed on a classic pinup: a gorgeous girl and a car. ELLE Creative Director Joe Zee: I was inspired by early photos of Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss at the racetrack. Assistant Fashion Editor Sarah Schussheim: Lea especially loved the Tom Ford leather and gold Saint Laurent accessories. Hairstylist Harry Josh: She also requested pump-up music, so we rocked out to Justin Timberlake, Gaga, and Jay Z. Videographer Marcel Wepper: Lea sang along the whole time, and chatted about her upcoming album. When it comes to her career, Leas in the drivers seat.Catherine Straut
TOM FORD Vintage motorcycle helmet, from ABRSHOP.ETSY .COM , $60, visit abrshop.etsy.com

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Michele: Carter Smith; runway: Imaxtree.com; Knievel: Ralph Crane/Time & Life Pictures/ Getty Images; Abrshop.etsy.com helmet, Levis shorts, Belstaff jacket, and LOral Paris eyeliner: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Kristy Vant for Mark Edward Inc.); remaining still life: courtesy of the designer

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102 BEHIND THE COVER

WorldMags.net EDITED BY JADE FRAMPTON

For more behind-the-scenes action (and to watch Lea Micheles on-set interview), go to ELLE.com/leamichelebts.

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Erica Jong WorldMags.net


PROVENANCE: New York City NOW: New York City and

Connecticut
PROFESSION: Im a poet who fell into the disreputable habit of writing novels. THIS MONTH: Jong-ian Theory (page 218) CANON: Fear of Flying; Shylocks Daughter; Seducing the Demon THE MOMENT: I think the first piece of art that really knocked my socks off was the Winged Victory of Samothrace in the Louvre. I remember thinking, This stone is going into flight. WRITING PHILOSOPHY:

Dan Forbes
PROVENANCE:

Carter Smith
PROVENANCE: Bailey Island,

ME
NOW: New York City PROFESSION: Photographer,

IF I WERENT A PHOTOGRAPHER, ID BE: A

mother of five.
CURRENTLY READING:

Interviews, by Hans Ulrich ObristCotton Codinha

WorldMags.net 104 CONTRIBUTORS December

Clockwise from top left: Jason McDonald; Dan Forbes; courtesy of the subject; Michael Childers

writer, director THIS MONTH: Brave Heart (page 282) BONA FIDES: Work has appeared in GQ and Allure MASTER CLASS: I love Andrew Wyeth. I can sit and stare and never be tired of looking at his work. It might be that the world hes capturing is very close to me, being from Maine, but I think there is something so breathtaking and beautiful and timeless about his paintings and drawings. Its a world that doesnt seem to exist anymore. UPCOMING: I wrote and directed a movie called Jamie Marks Is Dead. Its taken about three to four years to pull it together. Its about the murder of a high school boy who comes back as a ghost looking for the love and friendship he never had while he was alive. Its adapted from a novel, One for Sorrow, by Christopher Barzak. It will be out in late 2014.

Poetry is exuberant. You write a poem and skip around the house and cant wait to read it aloud to your friends. But a novel is a long slog. You get a fabulous idea and you write it down in your notebook. But then you have to sit your ass on a chair and do it. Nine days out of 10, you feel like, I have nothing to say. And you have to have the stick-to-itiveness or tenacity or whatever you want to call it to just keep going back to it. And they sometimes take years. Fear of Flying took me most of my twenties to get right. Writing novels can be very painful, but you just keep on doing it because otherwise youll go mad or perhaps die. UPCOMING: Im working on a movie of Fear of Flying, and Im finishing a novel which is called Happily Married Women or Fear of Dying, about that time in your life when everyone is dying around you and how you can embrace life even so.

Cerro Gordo, IL NOW: Woodstock, NY PROFESSION: Photographer THIS MONTH: Stargazer (page 310). This is a trade secret. I ordered tons of little crystalslike the dangly bits on a chandelieron eBay, and we threw a bunch of those in front of the lens and rotated around them until something cool happened and I pushed the shutter. BONA FIDES: BFA, photography, University of Illinois; work has appeared in Numro, Harpers Bazaar, V, Visionaire, The New York Times Magazine, T IN THE BLOOD: I have a photo that I took when I was five or six. I had bought a painting of a mountain at a garage sale for 25 cents, and I set up all my blankets like hills in front of it and I used it as a backdrop. I put all my toy lizards in front and I made this really complicated diorama, and I took a picture of it with my parents 110 camera. I took literally one shot. I remember waiting weeks for the film to be developed and getting it back and being disappointed because there was a discrepancy from where I lined up the crop lines from the viewfinder to the camera, because it was a cheap camera, so you could see the edge of the painting. I still have that picture. I should put it on the website.

Frederike Helwig
PROVENANCE: Hamburg, Germany NOW: London PROFESSION: Photographer THIS MONTH: Women in Art (page 272). Visiting all the artists in their own studios and seeing their working spaces was incredible. BONA FIDES: Work has appeared in i-D Magazine, Art Review, Spin, Vanity Fair, Harpers Bazaar, Dazed + Confused, AnOther Magazine DEAR ACCESSORY: A watch from Herms. FIRST GIG: I was hired for a three-page shoot for a magazine in 1993with a budget of 150. I learned to concentrate and not to waste any film. I did my own printing on the kitchen table. DREAM SUBJECTS: [Actor] Bruno Ganz and Werner Herzog.

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WorldMags.net ROCK THE

CASBAH

The stylish CEO of social network A Small World (aka Facebook for the jet set) knows a thing or two about booking getaways. Sabine Heller gives us the keys to Essaouira, Morocco
It gets boring hanging out with yourself when youre travelingyou want to meet new people, says Sabine Heller. The 36-year-old has just begun her elevator pitch for A Small World, a social network founded in 2004 and relaunched with Heller at the helm earlier this year. The basic idea: For an annual fee of $105, members of the sitea vetted group that includes Grammywinning violinist Joshua Bell, actor Joseph Fiennes, and others Heller describes as citizens of the world in one way or anotherare able to make their worlds just a bit smaller by checking into a given location and connecting with other members in their vicinity. You want to know that the person youre meeting up with at 10 oclock at night in Capetown has something in common with you, says Heller. (Other perks of the site include insider hotel rates and clutch spa deals.) In May, to fete the sites relaunch, Heller threw a starstudded bash in Marrakech, where guests such as Olivia Wilde and Dianna Agron tested out their camel-riding skills and got pampered at hammams. (Partiers stayed at the ultraluxe Taj Palace, the best part of Sex and the City 2.) A few days later, the globe-trotting Heller
1. Heller 2. The Essaouira skyline 3. Simon takes in the citys sights 4. Spices and dried herbs on display at a souk 5. Simon and Faithfull kick back over mint tea 6. Birds-eye view of the Essaouira harbor

6
still boasts a substantial traditional medina filled with North African delights such as spices, intricately woven carpets, and argan oil.

continued her Moroccan adventure in the seaside town of Essaouira, a few hours south. Its like the Ibiza of Morocco, says Heller, who, in true A Small World spirit, embarked on the journey with acquaintances Harper Simon (son of Paul) and Marianne Faithfull. It was surreal, says Heller. We just played guitar and hung out. Amanda FitzSimons

STAY:

CZECH IT OUT
Those staying close to home for the holidays can at least get a whiff of seasonal celebrations in a far-flung locale, thanks to model and activist Petra Nemcova. As part of Be the Light, the homegoods line she launched earlier this year, Nemcova managed to capture the aroma of freshly baked jam-filled Christmas cookies from her native Czech Republic in a rich candle. Dont be fooled, though those cinnamon and vanilla top notes only smell good enough to eat. Czech Holiday Cookie candle, $98, available at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus A.F.
Portrait: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com; spices and herbs: Magdalena Jankowska/Getty Images; harbor: Andrea Zanchi/Getty Images; skyline: Laurent Sauvel/Getty Images; candle: courtesy of the brand; remaining images: courtesy of Heller

Essaouira doesnt have much in the way of museums; for the most part, its all about the beach. Stake out prime lounge-chair real estate at one of the towns luxe waterfront resorts, such as the Hotel Sofitel Essaouira Mogador or Le Medina Essaouira Hotel Thalassa Sea & Spa.

DO:

Music-fest junkies (and restless sunbathers) will enjoy Gnaoua and World Music Festival, held each summer. The outdoor fair features jazz, reggae, and rock acts.

EAT:

Fill up on fresh fish at cozy eateries such as the funky Gnawa Blues or the slightly more upscale Zahras Grill Restaurant & Tapas Bar.

SHOP:

It may be less metropolitan than other Moroccan destinations, but Essaouira

106 JET-SETTER

For more pictures of Hellers around-the-world travels, visit our album at ELLE.com/asmallworld.

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LEA VE IT TO BEA VER


I am a small, slender woman with such low blood pressure that nurses joke I must be dead, and a circulation that correspondingly never quite reaches my fingers and toes. From early October to late April I am continuously cold. So on New Jersey days when the temperature drops below freezing, I open my closet, look at the fur coat my grandmother bought for me 27 years ago, and ask myself whether I feel like getting into a bunch of discussions about my outerwear today. If I dont (usually the case) I close the closet and venture out layered and wrapped as well as I can manage. If Im up for the Conversation, I

or fox, or mink, or When it comes to fur, everybodys got an opinionif you wear one, be prepared to hear them. Pamela Erens asks the forbidden question: Is all that animosity just about animal rights?
put on my fur. I was hesitant when my grandmother offered this gift. I was 23, and a fur seemed like an excessively costly and adult possession. But my always impeccably appareled grandmother had a way of enforcing her will when it came to such matters. So off we went to the fur salon, where I ended up with a very 80s fur: a wideshouldered, thickly shaggy beaver that nearly swallowed me up. Its long, silky hairs evoked an intensely tactile memory of the fur throw my parents kept on their bed; as a child, Id loved to stroke it and wrap myself up in it. The coat was heavenly warm,

much warmer than the down coats Id spent my childhood huddled in. I loved it. But I didnt wear it. Even though I was living in Connecticut, where the winters could grow brutal, I didnt know anyone my age who owned a fur. I was an editorial assistant at a magazinewould my bosses cut my already meager salary when they saw the coat? Besides, the mid-80s was not a great time to wear fur. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) had begun to draw attention to the suffering of animals raised or trapped for fur, and radical animal-rights activists were throwing red paint on those who dared to ignore the message. At the least, wearing fur could garner you some very dirty looks. I believed I should feel guilty about the coat, but I wasnt sure if I really

did. There were people in my family who made a living as furriersthe fur salon Id gone to was owned by one of them. Plus, the coat felt good and served a practical purpose. But in the end the fear of disapprobation was enough to keep me and my coat from venturing out in public together. Two years later, I was working in New York City at Glamour magazine. Let me repeat: I was working at a place called Glamour. And in the eight years I spent there, I hardly remember a single employee, of high status or low, who wore a fur coat to our office. Besides me. Because by then I sometimes did. My daily exercise was to walk from my apartment on the Upper West Side to work in midtown, and if the weather dipped into the low twenties, the fur was the only way I could manage it. Id skulk in, drape the

114 STYLE Essay

Lady Gaga, on refusing to say whether her furs are faux or real: I would think it hypocritical not to acknowledge the python, ostrich, cowhide, leather, lamb, alligator, kermit, and not to mention meat, that I have already worn.

WorldMags.net

Bruno Barbazan/Folio-id.com

coat over the couch near my cubicle, and alternately worry that it would be stolen or that someone would throw a rotten egg at it when I headed home. The fur industry has grown since the 80sin 2012, it generated $1.27 billion in U.S. salesbut I cant figure out where all that fur is going: into linings, where you cant see it? Im still almost always the only figure I see in a fur on the streets of my suburb on a frigid day. A friend of mine inherited her grandmothers mink when she was in her twenties, and although she says its gorgeous and toasty, shes worn it only once, to a New Years party two decades ago. She worries it might make her seem insensitive and gauche. In truth she loves the coat so much that she sometimes

WorldMags.net
coat for me 27 years ago! I told her not to, but she. Either way, I cannot avoid the Conversationthe need to explain where I got the coat and why I wear the coat and that I do get that fur can be considered morally compromising, even though I am not usually a bad person. What intrigues me is that these same friends, if we were meeting for dinner and I ordered, say, veal saltimbocca, would never say, How great that you dont feel embarrassed about eating baby cow! Or, should I be wearing leather boots, Hmm, very fancy footwear! Ive done a bit of research into fur farming, which accounts for 85 percent of the sourcing in the global fur trade, and if even some of PETAs claims are true about farmed-fur animals fur morally stainless, but I have to wonder why the revulsion is so much more instantaneous when it comes to fur. Needless to say, almost none of the people who comment on my fur wearing eschew meat or leather. I discussed the disconnect with a thoughtful friend recentlywe were already on the subject of fur because, you know, shed noticed that I looked fancy when I met her for coffee that frigid day. She thought perhaps it was because of the association of fur with luxury: that ethical outrage is just a cover for resentment of the display of spending power embodied in a fur worn publicly. There may be something to that, although the resentment is illogical. Some furs can be had for a whole lot less than a Burberry trench, and certainly for less than

The authors fur-loving grandmother

on that last notion much longer, however. This past summer, for the first time, I took my fur to be professionally cleaned and

SOMETIMES, WEARY OF ANTICIPATION, I LAUNCH INTO DEFENSIVE TMI: I KNOW: THIS COAT! MY GRANDMOTHER BOUGHT THIS COAT FOR ME 27 YEARS AGO! I TOLD HER NOT TO, BUT SHE.
stops to admire it in her front hall closet. I want to wear it, she says, but I always stop short. Another friend (also small boned and easily chilled) was hissed at not long ago by a teenage boyAnimal killer!when she wore her shearling to get groceries. Mostly, though, people have more oblique ways of making their surprise or distaste known. Theres the Wow, you look fancy! (read: Im shocked that you would preen while wearing animal skins on your back). Or the faux supportive: Its great that you dont feel embarrassed about wearing fur! (read: How could you not be embarrassed about wearing fur?). Sometimes, weary of anticipation, I launch into defensive TMI: I know: this coat! My grandmother bought this immobilized in tiny cages, then painfully electrocuted or suffocated; about the drawn-out, agonizing death of trappingthere is need for reform. Steps can and should be taken to eradicate conditions that make fur animals suffer. But the public obsession with fur as uniquely immoral puzzles me. The realities associated with the raising, penning, and slaughtering of beef cattle are equally appalling, and the number of animals killed for meat dwarfs that of those killed for fur. In 2012 about 9 billion farm animals were slaughtered by the meat industry in the U.S. alone; the number for fur animals is 50 million worldwide. One fur coat can be worn for generations, while a steak is consumed in half an hour. I know these facts dont make many carnivores spend on meat in a year. Its hard to claim that meat eating is any less of a luxury than fur when vegetarians prove that one can live quite well, and probably more healthily, without it. I dont wear fur as a fashion statement. In fact I think I look a bit ridiculous in my coat; someone taller and with broader shoulders would probably pull it off better than I do. I wear fur for its warmth. The garment industry is always coming up with new breakthroughs, and maybe, just maybe, theres some supersynthetic out there that would keep me as warm as my beaver coat. But that would cost money, perhaps a good bit, and I already own my coat. Isnt there some small virtue in my reuse-recycle approach? I may not be able to rely stored. Its the sort of thing my grandmother did on a yearly basis, and it seemed that I might finally be grownup enough to take the same care with what shed given me. The furrier pointed out that, after 27 years, some of the skins had dried out and split. He offered to do minor repairs but didnt advise putting more than a couple hundred dollars into the coat. Youre going to get two or three more years out of it, tops, he warned. So there isnt much time left before Ill have to put my trusty beaver coat to rest (turn it into a throw for my bed?) and ponder what to do next. Will I spring for a new fur? Or will I decide that its time to get to know my acrylic and modacrylic polymers? Those names just dont have quite the same ring, do they?

Courtesy of Pamela Erens

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STYLE Essay 117

ALFRESCO
For an art curator, Cecilia Alemani spends a lot of time worrying about the weather. Shes become an amateur meteorologist, or at least a chance-of-rain anticipator, since she was named director of the art program for the High Line, an abandoned railroad turned elevated park that threads through the postindustrial luxe of Manhattans Chelseahome to the greatest concentration of art galleries on the planet. To mark the close of a wet summer, shed organized a September 18 performance for High Line patrons that could have easily been washed out: Pablo Bronsteins Intermezzo: Two girls wear fashion garments on a palm tree was scheduled to take place post-cocktails, predinner, on a segment located just north of Diane von Furstenbergs atelier on 14th Street. The clouds were threatening. What if it rained on Cindy Sherman? A curly-haired, 36-year-old Italian often clad in Ferrari yellow or red, Alemani is the ever-smiling half of one of the most influential, least self-serious art-world power couples. Her husband restlessly clever, 39-year-old fellow Italian Massimiliano Gioniis the director of exhibitions at New Yorks New Museum and in 2013 oversaw the Venice Biennale, an art show/convention of global tastemakers. So

Meet Cecilia Alemani, director of the public art program for the High Line, who does not think public art should be, well, self-serious. By Carl Swanson

(From left) Alemani and Gioni on the High Line; Andra Ursuta, Would It Were Closing Time, And All Well, 2013 (front), and Paul McCarthy, Balloon Dog, 2013, at Frieze New York, 2013

many people in the art world are bitter and jaded, says artist Andra Ursuta, who has worked with both Alemani and Gioni. But they are full of life force. It doesnt feel tired or opportunistic. The shows that they put on are focused on placing art as an essential component of life. When I met the pair this summer for soba noodles by their East Village apartmentyes, it rained that night, and I showed up soaked throughtheyd just returned from a whale-

watching trip. You get very close, Gioni says. As usual, hes wearing a white buttondown and an expression that suggests hes recalling a private joke. And you get really wet, says Alemani. I like animals a lot, Gioni says. They egg each other on, a near-giddy conspiracy of two. While Alemani talks about Frank Bensons Human Statue (Jessie) (2011) on the High Line, she pulls out her iPhone to show how passersby dressed it up

in a boa and a rainbow flag and holding a banana during Gay Pride week. She giggles. Says High Line cofounder Robert Hammond, I was expecting this supersophisticated, intimidating Italian woman. But she was so accessible and friendly. She wants to make this program work not just for the art world, but for [all] people. Gioni is similar. His Biennale theme was The Encyclopedic Palace, and it resembled an enormous flea market, with high art and the private obsessions of oddball outsiders (such as a selection of paos, handkerchief drawings by MexicanAmerican prisoners) jumbled together. The vibe: Isnt the human animal interesting?

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The High Line opened to trains in 1934 and ran from Penn Station in midtown all the way to Spring Street in SoHo.

Portrait: Marcelo Gomes (hair and makeup by Anna Webber for Bite Beauty); remaining images, clockwise from top left: photograph by Linda Nylind, courtesy of Linda Nylind/Frieze; courtesy of Friends of the High Line; photograph by John Berens, courtesy of John Berens/Frieze

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(From left) Joel Kyack, Most games are lost, not won, 2012, at Frieze New York, 2012; Carol Bove, Celeste, 2013, part of the High Line Commission

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The two grew up in Milan and met thanks to artist Maurizio Cattelan, whos known for his darkly funny sculptures: an elephant draped in what looks like a KKK sheet; Hitler on his knees, praying; the pope being hit by a meteorite. Gioni met Cattelan when he interviewed him for the Italian magazine Flash Art, and they started collaborating. Gioni became his secret double: Because Cattelan disliked public speaking, Gioni would give lectures posing as the artist. (This might also count as conceptual art; today they run a tiny art space in New York called Family Business.) While working in a gallery in Milan, Alemani attended the after-party for a show Gioni had curated. It was wild, she says, and Cattelan tried to take all these weird pictures of my knee, which isnt quite as odd as it sounds, because shed fallen playing basketball and was wearing an elaborate knee brace. That was that, but soon after, Alemani moved to New York to get a masters in curatorial studies from Bard College and the following summer needed an internship. She e-mailed Gioni: Do you remember me? I was the woman wearing that weird thing on my knee at your party. She got hired to work in Spain on Manifesta 5, a roving European art biennial he was curating, and their relationship turned personal. We dont talk about that much, she says, laughing. For the first two years,

(From left) John Baldessari, The First $100,000 I Ever Made, part of High Line Billboard; installation view of Pepn Osorio, The Scene of the Crime (Whose Crime?), 1993, from NYC 1993 at the New Museum (2013)

(Above and right) Video time line from NYC 1993 at the New Museum (2013); Gioni at the 2013 Venice Biennale

she was in New York while he worked mostly in Berlin. They didnt see each other often, but the distance kept them together by giving them space to develop apart. In late 2006, the New Museum hired Gioni, and they moved in together. (They married in 2010 at City Hall, because I didnt have insurance, Alemani says.) I do really admire their relationship, says Ursuta, adding that whenever she and her husband bicker, she tells him, Im sure Cecilia and Massimiliano are not fighting as much as we are. Their life together seems all travel, parties, and dinnersbut mostly its looking at art. And they look all over the world (they visited Beirut in September, despite the civil war in nearby Syria). Its nerdy to confess, but we make lists of things we have to talk about, Gioni says. And when we go away for a week. We drive and spend hours in the car, says Alemani.

We say, These are the six, seven things. There is one ironclad rule in their relationship: no art in the house. If we have anything, we keep it in a cardboard box, Alemani says. Its nice to go home and look at white walls. Gioni quotes a curator he knows: A curator who has artwork on the walls is like a surgeon who cant sew and has blood all over the place. Besides, their true home is in Milan, Alemani says. Thats where we have the real furniture, not the IKEA furniture, and the walls are real brick. Nonetheless, New York is the place that accepted them and allowed them to flourish when, Gioni

says, it seemed like every job in Italy was taken. And its where they say theyre likely to remain. That September night on the High Line, the weather held up, even if the performance didnt quite. Two girls did indeed dance, in the basket of a cherry picker, and while they werent on a palm tree, they were in front of one, shipped in from Florida. The caramelized sea scallops and cauliflower gnocchi were tasty, the Hudson River view spectacular. Sherman, Chuck Close, and Elizabeth Olsen politely sipped cocktails. Not everything can be perfect. Afterward, as Alemani and Gioni walked down 14th Street chatting about finding an adoptive home for that nights featured plant, I think back about something Gioni told me over soba: that, as he puts it, its a misperception that the art world is for the rich. Coming from a working-class family, Gioni was remade by art, he says, and he and Alemani want to show others the same possibility. [Art] is a playground where people can transform themselves, he says, where they can be somebody else. And then the two go off into the night, laughing, and Gioni playfully grabs his wifes butt.

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To see more of Alemanis favorite commissions for the High Line, go to ELLE.com/highlineart.

Clockwise from top left: Courtesy of Friends of the High Line; courtesy of the New Museum, New York, photographs: Benoit Pailley (2); Barbara Zanon/Getty Images

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Unveiling of the redesigned New York flagship Winter 2013

Lucky Charms Mini Watch, pink gold and diamonds, guilloch dial.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendme since 1906

Visit our online boutique at vancleefarpels.com - 877-VAN-CLEEF

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EXHIBITWorldMags.net A
Life is short, the art long. Were not ones to argue with Hippocrates, but the latest art-fashion linkups are going fastfrom DIGGIN IT limited-edition accessories collections to Luxe Los Angeles boutique blockbuster exhibitions you just cant miss. Just One Eye always makes By Alison S. Cohn and Vronique Hyland headlines with its inspired

GREAT DANES

MEMENTO TO MORI
Damien Hirst, irst, whose most famous works rks include a formaldehyde-preserved yde-preserved shark and a platinum human skull bedzazzled azzled with 8,601 diamonds, is lending his touch to the e Alexander McQueen skull scarf first seen in the designers shipwreck-chic chic spring 2003 Irere collection. ction. Each of the 30 tenth-anniversary nniversary limitededition designs igns include insects and arachnids nids from Hirsts Entomology gy series laid out to create te the avant-garde British brands nds signature deaths-head ad motif.
Still from the film Mur Murs (1980)

NEW WAVE CINEMASCOPE


Leave it to a female triumvirate to top the Angeleno art-world pyramid. On the heels of Los Angeles County Museum of Arts James Turrell retrospective comes Agns Varda in Californialand, curated by Rita Gonzalez, which celebrates the New Wave auteurs love affair with L.A.
Snapshot from the short film The Black Panthers (1967) (From left) Britt Salvesen, Gonzalez, and Christine Yu

French furniture designer Maria Pergay knows how to make whimsy last: Her undulating steel Vague stool (1968) is part of the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. This month, at Design Miami, shes gone soft. In collaboration with Fendi, shell show Pouf Goeland, a curvaceous metal bench covered in fox fur, as the first commission in the Italian houses new Fendi Casa Icons series.

122 FASHION INSIDER Art

with dispatches from luxury lifestyle consultant Maria Brito at WorldMags.net ELLE.com/artbasel.

Want daily updates from Art Basel Miami Beach? Stay up to speed

Clockwise from top: Courtesy of the designer; Henrik Blow; courtesy of the designer; 2013 Museum Associates/LACMA; cin-tamaris (2); courtesy of the designer

limited editions. The shops latest arty offering? Simone Haroucheformerly a stylist to the likes of Miley and J.Lohas designed 25 one-ofa-kind bags in collaboration with apostrophe-averse Angeleno artist collective Clamdiggin (aka the husband-and-wife duo of Alexandra Fisher and Kevin Johnson). The illustrationheavy clutches, shoulder bag, and backpacks will be sold at Just One Eye and on simonecamille.com.

Disco Oriental was the stated theme of Moonspoon Salons show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The label is an ongoing collaboration between designer Sara Sachs and conceptual artists Evren Tekinoktay and Tal R, who split their time between Copenhagen and bicoastal). For spring 2014, they unveiled Prince-worthy glitter-bedecked jumpsuits and leathers. Fans include Lady Gaga, Beyonc, and the Purple One himself.

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AVA I L A B LE AT M AC Y S , M AC Y S . C O M A N D J I M M Y C H O O B O U T I Q U E S

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PERPETUAL MOTION
Move! moves, declares Visionaire cofounder Cecilia Dean, who cocurates roving cultural jamboree Move! with writer David Colman. When the festival touched down in So Paulo in March, it paired eight artists with designers and fashion brands to collaborate on such kinesthetic offerings as a graffiti lesson from Brazilian video and design collective Banzai Studio and Pedro Loureno (below) What strange wonders will the 2014 edition hold?

JAIL BLOCK
You could say abstract artist Peter Halley has a bit of a fixation on prison cells: Hes been painting colored variations of a barred window since the 1980s. So it seems somehow appropriate that his canvas Perfect Sense (2011) was one of four works chosenalongside pieces by James Nares, Erik Parker, and Raymond Pettibon to be screen-printed on a cashmere blend scarf (above) as part of the Yarnz Project, benefiting the Drug Policy Alliance, a national organization supporting drug law reform.

THINKING MANS PINUP


Yoox, already a destination for high-end fashion and objets, has expanded into the art sphere, with standout offerings such as Sarah Hardacres collages inspired by vintage mens magazines (above) and works by Eve Arnold, Yoko Ono, and Sarah Lucas. Pop one into your virtual cart alongside that Rick Owens jacket.

Parisian-born Sydney Albertini, whose most recent exhibition was titled And Also, I Have No Idea, has worked in a bewildering array of mediums, from drawing and painting to installation, performance, photography, and furniture design. Now she can add a new credit to her CV: fashion designer. SydneyToWear, a 25-piece capsule collection of intellectual loungewear including a dancing-monster SEX, ACTUALLY T-shirt (modeled here by Now that the days of the artist)is available at secreting Playboy under the Fivestory. proverbial mattress are long gone, a new art triannual is giving life to print erotica. Edited by Sarah Nicole Prickett, with contributors including Stephanie LaCava, Rachel Kushner, and Cord Jefferson, Adult is a feminist take on a dirty magazine, complete with salacious photo spreads. One of their bylaws declares, In every photo editorial, the model is the subject, not the object. Naomi Wolf would be proud.
cofounder Prickett hails from the clothes beat (she reported on fashion WorldMags.net shows for Canadas Globe and Mail ). Belying the mostly undressed state of her models, Adult magazine

124 FASHION INSIDER Art

Clockwise from top left: Genevieve Hanson; Veronica Campos; courtesy of Yoox.com; Henrik Purienne; Antoine Wagner; Veronica Campos

PRT--PARTY

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bananarepublic.com 1 888 BRSTYLE

designer

L WR E N SC O T T
photographed at the plaza hotel nyc

introducing the limited edition

c o ll e c t i o n

in stores and online december 5

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(From left) Designers Piccioli and Chiuri at the final gala at Romes Hotel de Russie; Leah Wood and Kidd

RED ROVER
Valentino designer Maria Grazia Chiuri and daughter Rachele led the way on the second annual Cash & Rocket road tour to raise money for charity. By Zo Wolff
This past June, Maria Grazia Chiuri was racing against the clock to finish her spring 2014 menswear collection in time for the Paris shows, just in time to embark on an entirely different sort of race: one that involved cruising from Barcelona to Rome in a Maserati GranCabrio. Chiuricodesigner, along with Pierpaolo Piccioli, of the house of Valentino had signed on as a brand sponsor for Cash & Rockets second annual tour. The four-day, ladies-only road trip enlisted 70 women in fashion, business, and media, as well as international royalty, to clock hundreds of miles a dayand decadently refuel on Veuve Cliquot, with obligatory Breathalyzer tests each morningin a rarefied fundraising effort for a roster of female-focused charities in Africa. Chiuri decided to ride shotgun while her 18-year-old daughter, Rachele, steered the course. I said I would go only if she came with me, says the designer. The driving wasnt exactly for the uninitiated. Cash & Rocket founder Julie Brangstrup is an auto aficionado with an equally greased Rolodex, having masterminded the famous Gumball 3000 rally, an annual international motor rally, with ex-husband Maximillion Cooper more than a decade ago. Striking out on her own, the Danish-born, Londonbased powerhouse, who began her career at Morgan Stanley, started Cash & Rocket in 2011 with the idea of giving luxury brands a way to promote their products while giving back to global causes. Such events put companies intimately in touch with their target audiences, by inviting the female database they want to attack, she says, noting Guccis recent Chime for Change initiative, for which Beyonc was the headlining act. Most of these ladies are very active in many charities. If you really want to get their attention, youve got to give them an experience they will never forget. Round two drew Jodie Kidd, Delfina Delettrez, and a very pregnant Margherita Missoni, who were no doubt lured as much by the glamour factor as the cause. On the itinerary: nights in A-list hotels such as the St. Regis in Florence and a private feast hosted by Roberto Cavalli and his wife, Eva, at the familys villa. In Rome, Brangstrup arranged a police-escorted cavalcade to the Coliseum followed by canaps at Valentinos atelier in the sixteenth-century Palazzo

(Clockwise from top) Kidd on the road; Delettrez; the fleet of drivers at the Coliseum; Kidd, Brangstrup, Delettrez, Chiuri, Missoni, and Teresa Missoni

Mignanelli, culminating in a grand-finale auction and gala held in the majestic Hotel de Russie gardens. (Among the more memorable lots sold was a skateboarding lesson with Tony Hawk, snapped up by Princess Reema of Saudi Arabia.) Last year we raised $250K. This year we want to double it, Brangstrup announced at the opening ceremonies in Barcelona. Im not being greedy, she added cheekily. Having secured backing from Loewe and Roberto Cavalli, among others, Brangstrup ensured that her gang of drivers had the fiercest cars for the journeyfrom a brandnew McLaren (entered by the Formula 1 team) to a vintage Aston Martin DBS, all red or red-wrapped for the occasion. Each Thelma and Louiseesque duo blasted out updates via

social media, competing to see who could solicit the most money for this years chosen nonprofits: Shine On Sierra Leone, which aims to build a secondary school in Kono; the South Africabased Sumbandila, whose goal is to encourage the growth of gifted underprivileged children; and OrphanAid Africa, the brainchild of Lisa LovattSmith, who ditched a career in magazines and decamped to Ghana, where she offers family-support services. The Valentino motherdaughter team proved the winning fundraisers with $37,812 of the $302,000 total accrued on the ride. They also proved leaders in rally style. As one Instagram post said: Sneak preview of todays racing outfit: red leather pants and matching jacket, custom made red camouflage sneakers. Valentino red is a winning combination.

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house, was inspired by a poppy-hued gown founder WorldMags.net Valentino Garavani glimpsed at the opera.

Valentino red, synonymous with the alta moda

Courtesy of Cash & Rocket

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MADISON AV ENUE
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I P P O L I TA .C O M

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BIG HUNGER
FEED cofounder Lauren Bush Lauren tours East Africa to meet with artisans crafting holiday accessories, the sale of which provides meals to local schoolchildren through the United Nations World Food Programme. By Jessica Hatcher
At a remote school perched on a rise in Rwanda, in what is known as the land of a thousand hills, sixyear-old Jean greets his American visitors carrying a bag handcrafted from recycled sackcloth. Here in sub-Saharan Africa, everything is recycled: Old tires become flip-flops and carpet scraps, insoles. It was traveling to places like thisand meeting children like Jeanthat inspired Lauren Bush Lauren to create the first FEED bag, with the aim of raising money to fund school meals. For it to be a success, the design had to reflect the cause, Bush Lauren says. And apparently it did, because that first rugged tote spawned a profitmaking enterprise called FEED Projectsin which bags and accessories made by artisans in developing countries are sold by several hundred retailers worldwide. In November, FEED launched a new collection featuring backpacks, handbeaded scarves, and tech cases in utilitarian fabrics and primary colors. Particularly clever: Each item has a number that represents how many school meals will be donated with the profits from its purchaseas a consumer, you know what youre getting and what youre giving. Chronic food insecurity afflicts an estimated 842 million people across the globe, according to the World Food Programme (WFP), one of the organizations that distributes the money raised by FEED. In East Africa, where Bush Lauren invited ELLE to join her on a 10day tour of FEED projects, subsistence farmers live with the daily pain of a grumbling stomach, often called the small hunger. (And when the rain doesnt come or disease wipes out crops or livestock, whats small becomes big, and people die.) By trying to ameliorate the small hunger, FEED hopes to boost school attendance

(Clockwise from top) Bush Lauren in Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya; Bush Lauren helps with meal distribution at Stara Rescue Centre and School in Kibera, a Nairobi slum; Stara Rescue Centre and School students; Munege Primary School, Nyaruguru District, Rwanda

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partner of FEED Projects, provides 300,000 hot WorldMags.net meals to Rwandan children every school day.

The United Nations World Food Programme, a

Riccardo Gangale for FEED

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T h e S e r e i n D i a m o n d Wa t c h

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MICHELE.COM

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(From top) Bush Lauren watches women preparing a meal at Gihembe refugee camp, Rwanda; visiting Bedi Investments Limited in Nakuru, Kenya

Sharing laughs with students from Stara Rescue Centre and School

rates and improve childrens ability to learn, which is what happened at the Munege Primary School in southern Rwanda. Over the eight years that free meals have been offered, attendance rates and punctuality have improved drastically. One of the beneficiaries is nineyear-old Claudine, who tells me casually that she walks four miles to school and back every daya journey that without WFP would be made on an empty stomach. Since its inception in 2007, FEED has provided more than 60 million meals of maize porridge and proteinrich beans through WFP, which itself is slowly handing over the job of sourcing and redistributing food to African governments, so that countries like Kenya and Rwanda can manage their own futures. Were trying to find ways to work ourselves out of business, said JeanPierre de Margerie, country
FEED bags photographed outside Gihembe, Rwanda

director of WFP Rwanda. It was while attending Princeton and acting as an honorary student spokesperson for WFP that Bush Lauren designed her first bag and presented it to the food organization. Now FEED has a staff of nine, and its vice president of finance, Scott Fell, says the companys sales increased 40 percent last year and this years growth could double that. In addition to managing FEEDs giving to WFP, on this trip Bush Lauren is overseeing the workshops where its products are made. In Nakura, a town in Kenyas Great Rift Valley, we meet Monica, who works for a company called Viva Africa. As she embroiders a canary yellow FEED Kikoy pouch, she explains that she is deaf and raising four children. Asked whether she is married, 35-year-old Monica mimed pulling a wedding ring

off her finger and tossing it away. She is proud to support herself, she says. Back in the Kenyan capital, Nairobi, in a warehouse on an industrial estate just a few miles from one of the continents largest slums, Bush Lauren and other members of the FEED team gather to view heavy brass necklaces and fluorescent leather cuffs. I have to have that, says Tascha Rudder, vice president of business development, as she weighs a pendant like a lump of mined gold. The studio space where the jewelry is crafted wouldnt be out of place in New York City: Tear sheets from ELLE and Vanity Fair adorn the walls, and sewing machines hum as they produce FEEDs upcoming Heritage leather line. As he stamps holes in contoured leaves of locally sourced leather, Wilfredone of the

50 artisans working fulltime for FEED supplier Madesays, We are doing what we love doing. Neal Gershinson, the director of Made and the former head of accessories at Burberry, says his company is proof that socially conscious brands such as FEED can develop a reliable supply chain with artisans in the developing world. Gershinson himself came to Africa because hed become disenchanted with the soullessness of the big-name fashion industry. This is real, he says, gesturing to a blacksmith who is melting scrap metal in a 1,000-degree furnace. During a quiet moment with Rudder on a bumpy drive, Bush Lauren says she hopes to open a shop in the near future. Later Rudder jokes, We dream of the day when you go to our website, and theres nothing, it just says FED.

(From left) Bush Lauren and Team FEED with students at Stara Rescue Centre and School; an artisan hand-beads at Bedi Investments Limited

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Read more on another great Bush at ELLE.com/barbara-bush-profile.

Riccardo Gangale for FEED

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AVAI L A BLE AT MACYS AND MAC YS. COM

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TH E N EW F RAGRANCE F O R WOMEN F EATU RIN G AM B ER H EARD

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE 2014 LEXUS IS

A BRAVE HYBRID OF PROVOCATIVE DESIGN, CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY, AND HIGH-FASHION THEATRICS, LEXUS DESIGN DISRUPTED was a night of bold
contrastsart and commerce, design and chaos, raw emotion and intellectual rigora true conuence of Fashion, Art, Technology and Innovation. On September 5 during MADE Fashion Week, Lexus, in partnership with LEGS MEDIA, created an awe-inspiring performance featuring Coco Rocha celebrating the new LEXUS IS that transcended time and space. Lexus Design Disrupted truly deed convention as a beautifully provocative interpretation of the Lexus design ethos:

TO PURSUE INNOVATION AND AESTHETIC PERFECTION.

EXPERIENCE DESIGN DISRUPTED AT YOUTUBE.COM/LEXUS

SEE FOR YOURSELF

Performer and model Coco Rocha gave an electric performance, ghting against forces of darkness and light in search of creative catharsis.

PERFORMANCE ART

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SOUND & MOTION


AN ILLUSIONARY WORLD
State-of-the-art holograms, digital mapping, and 3D optics brought the performance vividly to life.

2014 LEXUS IS F SPORT

A BEAUTIFUL HEROINE
Revered Fashion designer Giles Deacon hand selected pieces from his collection that epitomized Coco Rochas unique energy, silhouette, and style, and enhanced her effortless movement.

Fashion Designer Giles Deacon

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ITS ABOUT TIME Are you more of a Me Decade diva,


a swinging 60s chick, or an 80s material girl? As Creative Director Joe Zee proves with the help of Anchorman 2 newsroom newbie Meagan Good, this season you can be all of the above
Anchorman is one of my three favorite no-think, all-fun films. There are days when you just need an utterly escapist moviewatching experience. And much like Zoolander and The Princess Bride, my other two favorites, the 70s newscaster satire always delivers. It feels at once retro and oddly freshnot to mention laugh-out-loud, memorize-every-word hilarious. For me, the highlight of every date with Will Ferrells Ron Burgundy is the characters signature sign-off from his KVWN Channel 4 News broadcast: You stay classy, San Diego. While Ron himself may not epitomize class per se, he and Anchorman have become a classicand one I can get behind. Putting aside his polyester suits, body-hugging turtlenecks, and even the porn-star stache, his off-kilter swagger is timelessand a little inspiring. And, yes, I relish the visuals: the not-so-subtle Burt Reynolds references, the so-wrong-its-right wardrobe, and dont even get me started on that hair! (Man-perm comeback for 2014! Whos with me?) So imagine my glee: Almost 10 years later, Ron and the gang are back, with Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues, this time jumping from the wide-lapeled 70s to the shoulder-padded 80s. The news made my fashion mind race because, unlike most seasons, when designers seem to arrive by consensus on a single era for inspiration, resort 14 turned out to be an allencompassing retrospective of the entire second half of the twentieth century. For starters: 90s-style crop tops at Calvin Klein, flower power at Alexander McQueen, Studio 54 shimmer at Gucci, and retro slides everywhere. How do you incorporate each decades ethos into your look without appearing like youre auditioning to be an extra for Anchorman 3? By enlisting me as your time-traveling style captain, of course. To model resorts many throwback styles, I tapped the newest addition to the Anchorman team: Meagan Good, who plays Rons new boss and love interest, and is, incidentally, a girlcrush of mine. (Being a TV junkie, I knew Meagan from this years short-lived NBC crime-drama Deception, but it was her turn in 2007s Stomp the Yard that originally sparked my interest.) In this months sequel, she does her best 80s boss lady think Dont Tell Mom the Babysitters Deadwhich also happened to be her favorite look from our decades-inspired shoot. As we cruised from the 50s straight through to the 90s, I realized that a girl this versatile has staying power. You heard it here first, but in the meantime: You stay classy.

M O D ES T

MO

NR

0S 195

BASICS INSTINCT Eschew the poodleskirt clich in favor of tailored separates la Audrey Hepburn and Lucille Ball. Im all about the hourglass shape, but also looking like I didnt try, Meagan says of her day-to-day style. This sweater is something I would wear now.

134 A TO ZEE

I actually had a wardrobe fitting before I got the role, Good says of being cast in Anchorman 2. Fashion is a part of the whole entire story. If thats not right, it takes away from the authenticity.

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Photographed by Hao Zeng (Hair by Maisha Oliver; makeup by Sandra Ganzer for Chanel Beaut at Jed Root; fashion assistant: Brittny Chapman). Good wears: A.L.C. sweater, Christopher Kane trousers, Wildfox sunglasses, Ben-Amun necklace, Cole Haan oxfords, and her own earrings

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POP PRINCESS The bare midriff has officially resurged. Im ma huge fan of Aaliyah, Aaliyah, says sa ays Meagan, who accessorized accessoriz zed a billowing cropped jacket and billowing Vu uitton jeans with her own Louis Vuitton g vintage backpack. We grew nd I up at the same time, an and feel very connected to her.

S E X Y S U PR E M

19

CLUELESS C OO

S 70

0S 99

Photographed by Hao Zeng (Hair by Maisha Oliver; makeup by Sandra Ganzer for Chanel Beaut at Jed Root; fashion assistant: Brittny Chapman). Good wears: 1960s: Christopher Kane dress, Alexis Bittar earrings, 3.1 Phillip Lim bag, and Manolo Blahnik pumps; 1970s: Elie Saab dress and stylists own bangles; 1980s: Alberta Ferretti trench coat, Oscar de la Renta earrings, R.J. Graziano necklace and bracelets, Alexis Bittar ring, Donatienne clutch, and Alexandre Birman pumps; 1990s: T by Alexander Wang jacket, Theyskens Theory jeans, CC Skye bangles, Gianvito Rossi pumps, and her own backpack and earring

SECOND THAT EMOTION We have the 70s to thank for disco and, more important, megahair, blinding metallics, and diva attitudeall back in a big way. Meagans take on this Elie Saab number: I want to spin around like Diana Ross in Mahogany. I have all the drama in this dress.

PO

TOP COAT n in 1981, Meagan Born s partial to the era was du during which Anchorman 2 ta takes place. I have a lot of 80s pired things. Im totally a 80s-inspired frea for r leggings, she says. I freak lov this s trench coat. It just felt love like I was hiding a little mething, and thats something, exy, you know? sexy,

ER
Y PL A

1980S
MA JO R M O D

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S 60

SWING VOTE The 60s marked a shift in attitudeand hemlines. When we were putting this look together, we were thinking of Cher, Meagan says. The Christopher Kane dress was understated but sexy, fitted but not too fitted.

Cameo alert! Also joining the all-star cast for the much-anticipated Anchorman sequel: Nicole Kidman, Kristen Wiig, Harrison Ford, Tina Fey, James Marsden, Kirsten Dunst, Kanye West, Sacha Baron Cohen, Amy Poehler, and Liam Neeson.

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jasmine collection

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Styled by Sarah Schussheim (hair by Martin-Christopher Harper for Tigi at Kate Ryan; makeup by Tracey Alfajora for Chanel Beaut at Art Department; manicure by Maki Sakamoto for Chanel Beaut at Kate Ryan; casting by the Establishment; model: Daria Z at IMG Models); for details, see Shopping Guide

FIRST LOOK
Frida Gianninis luxe, languid looks for her Gucci resort collection will make any woman lookand feelas leggy as Jerry Hall
Photographed by RAF STAHELIN Lam jacket, $2,500, tank, $795, pants, $1,450, metallic leather sandals, $695, all, GUCCI, at select Gucci stores nationwide

THIS MONTH IN FASHION: TRENDS Rock goddesses page 146 // Brilliant digital prints page 150 // The new monochrome page 153 // ACCESSORIES Jelly roll! Your favorite 90s shoe makes a comeback page 162 // New jewels to give and to receive page 166

WorldMags.net EDITED BY JOANN PAILEY

FASHION 137

DIVIDE WorldMags.net AND CONQUER


Be a study in contrasts this holiday season bright, crisp colorblocking is still going strong
Michael Kors wrap skirt, Native Union cases, ases, and Araks swimsuit: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

Plong leather wrap skirt, MICHAEL KORS , $2,495, at select Michael Kors stores nationwide

DIOR

PROENZA SCHOULER

PETER PILOTTO

Nylon and elastane swimsuit, ARAKS , $350, visit araks.com

One Perfect Gift


Wooden iPhone 5 cases, all, NATIVE UNION, $50$70 each, visit nativeunion.com Patent leather and calfskin pump, RUTHIE DAVIS , $698, collection at amazon.com

WorldMags.net 138 FASHION Trends

In 1965, The New York Times proclaimed Yves Saint Laurents colorblock-pioneering Mondrian shift the brightest and freshest he has ever done.

2013 JOHN HARDY LIMITED

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NEIMAN MARCUS SAKS FIFTH AVENUE BLOOMINGDALES

ONE OF A KIND, ONE PIECE AT A TIME, EACH BY HAND

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JOHNHARDY.COM

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Spandex swimsuit, FENDI, $510, at Fendi, NYC REED KRAKOFF

DSQUARED2

JUNGLE BOOK
Do as nature intended: Pair time-tested safari suiting with savannainspired stripes

White gold, cabochon tourmaline, onyx, garnet, and brilliant diamond ring, CARTIER , price on request, call 800-CARTIER

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Cotton skirt, DSQUARED, $820, at select Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide

One Perfect Gift


Porcelain stacking dishes, all, JONATHAN ADLER , $24$32 each, visit jonathanadler.com

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The word safari synonymous with African wildlife toursmeans long journey in Swahili.

DSquared 2 skirt: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Miako Katoh); Jonathan Adler dishes: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Mary Ellen Medonis for Mark rk Edward Edwa Inc.); Fendi swimsuit: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

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Join style-minded women | Get the latest products before they hit shelves Share your expert opinion |WorldMags.net Earn points towards ELLE-curated prizes

One Perfect Gift


Cotton canvas pouch, DEZSO BY SARA BELTRN, $77, visit editorialist.com

WorldMags.net PALM READER


On the beach or in the city, stand tall in escape-ready frond prints
Crystal and platedbrass earrings, RODRIGO NEW YORK , $140, collection at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide

N21

FAUSTO PUGLISI

Embroidered silk chiffon tank, JASON WU, $3,995, visit jasonwustudio.com PRADA

Silk-satin and leather pump, SERGIO ROSSI, $620, at Sergio Rossi, Bal Harbour, FL

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Palm prints, take me away! Check out our travel tips for your next great escape at ELLE.com/travel.

Jason Wu tank: Philip Friedman/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining images: courtesy rtesy of the designers; for detail details, see Shopping Guide

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Studded leather sandal, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, $1,295, at Nicholas Kirkwood, NYC VERSUS VERSACE J.W.ANDERSON COLLECTION

GUITAR HERO
Live the high life in 80s-throwback quilted motos, studded heels, and heavy-metal minis

BALMAIN
Belstaff jacket and Paul Smith h guitar: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); Proenza Schouler skirt: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Miako Katoh); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

ICB

One Perfect Gift


Electric guitar, PAUL SMITH , $650, at Paul Smith, NYC

Jacquard skirt, PROENZA SCHOULER , $890, at Proenza Schouler, NYC Leather jacket, BELSTAFF, $2,495, collection at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide

WorldMags.net 146 FASHION Trends

In search of a soundtrack that will jump-start your holiday party? We've got custom playlists from Icona Pop and more at ELLE.com/weekendplaylist.

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MAYORS 800.4MAYORS MAYORS.COM HYDE PARK 333.333.4446 HPJEWELS.COM

SHREVE & CO. POST & GRANT, SAN FRANCISCO 800-5-SHREVE SHREVE.COM
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LOUIS VUITTON

Sequin-detail cotton tunic, MARC JACOBS , $1,295, at Marc Jacobs, NYC

VALENTINO

ROCK THE BOAT


Shape up or ship out in Sha jazzy takes on traditional Breton stripes and B nautical details

Silk handbag, VALENTINO GARAVANI, $2,075, at Valentino boutiques nationwide

CHLO

One Perfect Gift


Rex rabbit pillows, MARC JACOBS , $1,800 each, visit marcjacobs.com

Cotton-blend shorts, GUESS , $79, visit guess.com

148 FASHION Trends

when his mother, Queen Victoria, dressed him in a white-and-blue sailor WorldMags.net suit modeled after the uniform of the Royal Navy.

Young Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, sparked a fashion craze in 1846

Marc Jacobs tunic: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); Guess shorts and Valentino Garavani handbag: Philip Friedman/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); Marc Jacobs pillows: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

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One Perfect Gift
Mirrored acrylic clutch, JIMMY CHOO, $1,095, at Jimmy Choo stores nationwide DION LEE

NO FILTER
Wherever your travels ta take you, keep it hyper-real in brilliant digital prints

MARY KATRANTZOU
Clover Canyon dress: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Miako Katoh); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide d

Lycra-blend swimsuit, WE ARE HANDSOME , $332, collection at ssense.com

AKRIS

Neoprene dress, CLOVER CANYON, $294, visit clovercanyon.com

Limited-edition handmade leather and suede slippers, DEL RIO LONDON, $550, collection at matchesfashion.com

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Loving the sharp-focus look? We round up the seasons most eye-popping prints at ELLE.com/fallprints.

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Fluted-bezel gold watch, ROLEX , price on request, visit rolex.com LANVIN

One Perfect Gift

ALTUZARRA

GOLDEN MEAN
Meet the new monochrome: Head-to-toe golden looks are more than worth their weight
Pleated-detail dress, DKNY, $495, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide

Runway: Imaxtree.com; DKNY dress: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Miako Katoh); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Metallic leather sandal, CASADEI, $850, visit casadei.com

Metal hardware and leather clutch, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $1,275, at Giuseppe Zanotti Design boutiques nationwide

Hey, Goldeneye: Want even more metallics? Check out our WorldMags.net guide to gilded holiday beauty at ELLE.com/goldbeauty.

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WorldMags.net OFF THE CUFF


Go for the silver this season with inventive costume jewelry cuffs in the coolest metal around
Rhodium and rutilated quartz cuff, KELLY WEARSTLER , $240, visit kellywearstler.com

Metal and Lucite cuff, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, $590, visit ferragamo.com

Silver-plated brass cuff, VITA FEDE , $675, visit vitafede.com

Metal and resin cuff, CARVEN, price on request, visit carven.fr

Rhodium-plated brass cuff, EDDIE BORGO, $315, collection at thewebstermiami.com

Silver cuff with green inlay, ETRO, $1,184, visit etro.com Rhodium-plated brass cuff, KNIGHT$ OF NEW YORK , $375, collection at shopbop.com

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EDITED BY MARIA DUEAS JACOBS

Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide

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WorldMags.net FRINGE BENEFITS


The southwestern staples latest appearance? Adding a bohemian touch of texture to sophisticated noir heels

Patent leather and straw-detail sandal, BURBERRY, $675, visit burberry.com

Vinyl and leather sandal, BALENCIAGA , $1,415, collection at Barneys New York

156 FASHION Accessories

spring 2014 runways at shows from Rodarte to Gucci. See it all in WorldMags.net our slide show at ELLE.com/partyshoes.

The fringe trend shows no signs of slowing down, having swept the

Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide

Linen sandal, RUPERT SANDERSON, $845, collection at saksfifthavenue.com

WorldMags.net
T HE M OMENT P ERFECTED.

Exclusively presented by

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TWISTED WorldMags.net SISTER


Someone call security! Penny loafers, structured bags, and sporty sunglasses break out of the country club with unexpected colors and zany patterns

Sunglasses, BOTTEGA VENETA , price on request, visit bottegaveneta.com

Printed water-snake handbag, MARC JACOBS , $1,895, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide

Faux patent-leather loafer, STELLA MCCARTNEY, $600, at Stella McCartney, NYC

158 FASHION Accessories

enthusiasts the world over: Entrepreneur Arthur Cinader was WorldMags.net inspired by the book to found J.Crew in 1983.

The Official Preppy Handbook didnt influence just boat-shoe

Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide

WorldMags.net

Tacori.com

ROBBINS BROTHERS, THE ENGAGEMENT RING STORE Locations in Southern California & Texas 800 610 RING JANINAS JEWELLERS Grande Prairie, AB 855 455 5655 | HARLINGS JEWELLERS Vancouver, BC 604 687 1944 | STEVE PADIS JEWELRY San Francisco, CA 888 500 GEMS UNICORN JEWELRY & WATCH BOUTIQUE Rancho Bernardo, CA 888 320 3881 | RAFFI JEWELLERS Toronto, ON 416 789 2334 KASSAB JEWELERS Tigard, Portland, Lake Oswego, OR 800 6 KASSAB | MICHAELS Anchorage, AK 907 349 3381 | CAPRI JEWELERS Chandler, AZ 888 670 3778 SWISS WATCH GALLERY & FINE JEWELERS Laguna Hills, Mission Viejo, CA 949 458 1962 | SOUTH COAST JEWELER Santa Ana, CA 714 540 6132 ICING ON THE RING Los Angeles, CA 888 565 6150 | SHARIF FINE JEWELERS Sacramento, CA 916 927 0542 | THE WEDDING RING SHOP Honolulu, HI 808 945 7766 GORDONS GOLD JEWELLERS London, ON 519 473 3988 | LA MAISON DOR Ottawa, ON 613 837 1001 | BARRYS JEWELLERS LTD. Burlington, Hamilton, ON 1 866 855 6678 LA BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO Woodbridge, ON 905 264 0400 | HOWARD FINE JEWELLERS Ottawa, ON 613 238 3300 6<03+21<',$021'66KRSVDW'RQ0LOOV7RURQWR+LOOFUHVW0DOO5LFKPRQG+LOO21_(9$1*(/26),1(-(:(//5<6WRXIIYLOOH21

WorldMags.net

Calfskin shoulder bag, CHLO , $2,400, collection at net-a-porter.com

A one-two punch of splashy colorblocking is just the ticket to enliven ladylike bags in classic shapes

Leather handbag, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, $2,750, visit ferragamo.com

Deerskin messenger bag, REED KRAKOFF, $1,290, visit reedkrakoff.com

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They say you are what you carry. For more of the seasons standout sacs, go to ELLE.com/winterbags.

Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide

WorldMags.net BLOCK PARTY

WorldMags.net

PURE TREATMENT OIL | THE ULTIMATE HAIR RESTORING ELIXIR

FABULOUSLY DECADENT HAIRCARE WorldMags.net

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Sunglasses, WESTWARD LEANING , $180, visit westwardleaning.com

Suede and PVC sandal, CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA , $1,295, at Charlotte Olympia, NYC

Frosted plastic and snakeskin clutch, PROENZA SCHOULER , $700, at Proenza Schouler, NYC

JELLY ROLL
They made you the coolest girl in middle schoolnow the childhood must-haves are all grown-up

Polyurethane and patent leather sandal, SOPHIA WEBSTER , $295, visit sophiawebster.co.uk

162 FASHION Accessories

with our slide show of spring 2014s 90s-inspired fashion at WorldMags.net ELLE.com/ninetiestrends.

Still on a nostalgia kick? Take a skip down memory lane

Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide

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STING WorldMags.net OPERATION


Designers are swarming to honeycomb motifs this season, with sexy cell-like cutouts decorating heels and cuffs
Patent leather sandal, TAMARA MELLON, $895, at select Neiman Marcus stores nationwide Suede and mesh sandal, GIANVITO ROSSI, $1,140, collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC

Gold-plated silver and enamel cuff, DELFINA DELETTREZ, $1,560, collection at openingceremony.us

164 FASHION Accessories

Lil Kims throwback hit Tha Beehive, and Beyoncs fan community, WorldMags.net which refers to itself as the Beyhive.

In music, our favorite hives include the Swedish band of that name,

Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide

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FINE WorldMags.net LINES


From regal watches to delicate charms, a trio of fine-jewelry offerings debuts just in time for gift giving

Rose gold and sapphire watch on crocodile strap, price on request; silver and malachite watch on crocodile strap, $4,660; rose gold and ruby watch on crocodile strap, $3,309; silver and sugilite watch on crocodile strap, $4,660, all, DOLCE & GABBANA , at select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide

Watch the Throne


Last year, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana launched a blockbuster lineup of mens watches; now theyre ensuring we no longer have to borrow from the fellas. And the duo didnt hold back on extravagance. The Swiss-made timepieces in the houses first fine-jewelry watch collection come in yellow gold, rose gold, and steelencrusted with rubies, diamonds, and emeralds, mer ralds, and set off by richly hued bands.

Globe-trotting jeweler Aurlie Bidermanns maiden voyage into fine jewelry was inspired, appropriately enough, by a well-stamped passports worth of destinations, including India and Greece. The 40-piece array features maritime motifs, such as nautilus-shaped rings and pendants (below).

Gem m and the Holograms


Trust us, thats no mirage youre seeing. Louis Vuittons diamond Hologram braceletpart of the maisons 21-piece Chain Attraction capsule collectionis accented with mint emeralds and a morganite centerpiece.
Diamond, emerald, and morganite bracelet, LOUIS VUITTON JOAILLERIE , price on request, call 866-VUITTON

Gold link chain; gold, multicolor sapphire, diamond, and tsavorite pendant charm; gold, pink tourmaline, and ruby ring, all, AURLIE BIDERMANN FINE JEWELRY, prices on request, collection at Barneys New York

WorldMags.net 166 FASHION Accessories

Bidermanns bracelets come complete with scarab, apple, and ladybug charms.

Watches: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D; remaining still lifes: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

Sea Faring

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GREY WorldMags.net LADY


The Woman: Kyle DeWoody,

For art-world It Girl Kyle DeWoody, nineto-five dress should be nothing less than a masterpiece

29, Fort Greene, Brooklyn The Job: Creative director and cofounder of e-commerce site Grey Area, which sells art, jewelry, and objets by artists such as Andrea Mary Marshall and Ryan McGinness The Uniform: Staples from Acne; skirts topped with chunky sweaters. I like to undercut elegant with something a little more punk or oversize.

ELLE: Where did the idea for Grey Area come from?

KDW: I wanted a way to work with artists that could live outside the seriousness of the art world. And [my business partner] Manish, who I knew through the art scene, approached me with the idea of doing this online shop. If someone loves an artist and cant afford his or her traditional works, our inventory is a solution. At the same time, were not about slapping an image on a mug and making 10,000 of them. ELLE: Unlike other industries, art is one in which youre not only

DeWoody in her living room, above Grey Areas headquarters. Poplin dress, CARVEN, $890, collection at modaoperandi.com. Suede pumps, WALTER STEIGER , $1,050, at Walter Steiger, NYC. Her own jewelry

encouraged to dress creatively, youre expected to. Do you feel that pressure? KDW: At first I felt like, Oh, I need to step it up and start dressing more art world, but, in the end, I wish I just had a uniform. Although, I tried wearing all black one winter, and by spring, I was like, Im done with that. ELLE: You live upstairs from Grey Areas offices. Do you ever go to work in your pajamas? KDW: Obviously, I can get away with more than those in conservative fields. But Im selling my aesthetic, so I have to think about how I present myself. If Im just in the office, Ill wear my oversize corduroys or denim overalls. But often, Ill go from a studio to a conference room, so I like a look that works for botha little designer and a little utilitarian. Chlo and Keds. Hanes and Hedi. ELLE: Do you wear any of the items you sell? KDW: I wear a lot of the jewelryespecially Michelle Lopezs Band-Aid-shape rings. They undermine the seriousness with which most people approach luxury accessories. ELLE: Do you think fashion can be art? KDW: Margielas jewels are masterpieces. Its great to see art being expressed in so many more arenas than one normally expects to find it. ELLE: Your mom [Beth Rudin DeWoody] is a mega art collector, and youre slowly gaining on her. Do you have a favorite piece in your personal collection? KDW: Its hard to say, because theres that first piece you bought, or, in my case, pieces my dad [painter/sculptor James DeWoody], made for me, or works that I made myself. I just found a portrait I did as a kid, and under the image it says, Mrs. Jane Weirdo of Southampton, by Kyle DeWoody, and now its hanging on my wall. COTTON CODINHA

WorldMags.net 168 FASHION Workbook

Feeling like its time to graduate from Allposters.com? For DeWoodys beginners guide to art collecting, go to ELLE.com/kyledewoody.

Jason Frank Rothenberg (styling by Sarah Schussheim; hair and makeup by AlexaRodulfo.com; color by AJ Lordet at Pierre Michel Salon)

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KYLES LOOK WorldMags.net DECODED


DeWoody outside Grey Areas Brooklyn headquarters. Her own clothing, necklace, and shoes. Leather cross-body bag, COACH , $398, visit coach.com. Stretch-polyamide tights, FALKE , $59, collection at shopbop.com

1. VARSITY JACKET
Wool bomber jacket, OPENING CEREMONY, $365, at Opening Ceremony stores nationwide

2. TEXTURED SEPARATES
Cotton-blend jacquard tank, JOIE , $188, visit joie.com

3. MODERN JEWELRY
Gold and diamond cuffs, both, JEMMA WYNNE , prices on request, collection at marissacollections.com

4. SLEEK STREETWISE BAG


Faux-leather backpack, STELLA MCCARTNEY, $1,680, collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC

DeWoody with artist Sebastian Errazuriz at his studio. Stretchwool-blend bomber jacket, JIL SANDER NAVY, $790, collection at saksfifthavenue.com. Stretch-poplin dress, THE ROW, $1,250, collection at Barneys New York. Silver pendant necklace, SCOTT CAMPBELL , $450, collection at shopgreyarea .com. Leather, metal, and glass ring, SEBASTIAN ERRAZURIZ, price on request, collection at shopgreyarea.com. Ring, SHELTER SERRA , price on request, collection at shopgreyarea.com. Leather and lace ankle boots, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, $1,095, at Christian Louboutin, Chicago. Her own additional jewelry

5. ANKLE-STRAP HEEL
Patent leather ankle boot, ALDO, $160, visit aldoshoes.com

WorldMags.net FASHION Workbook

Portraits: Jason Frank Rothenberg; still lifes, from top: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Kristy Vant for Mark Edward Inc.) (2), courtesy of the designers (3)

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LAUNCHING EXCLUSIVELY AT NEIMAN MARCUS AND ALEXIS BITTAR BOUTIQUES

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Swimsuit and sandal: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Kristy Vant for Mark Edward Inc.); photograph from Alphabet Book : Tierney Gearon; remaining images: courtesy of the designers

LOS ANGELES For a high-art take on story time, Alphabet Book chronicles photographer Tierney Gearons cherubic children (who are frequent subjects in her work) as they make their way from A to Z.
artbook.com

LOS ANGELES Wrens Melissa Coker has teamed up with hipster lingerie label the Lake & Stars on a new line of vintage-inspired swimwear. The retro, highwaisted silhouettes and lingerie-like mesh panels are fit for a modern-day pinup. Dita, are you reading this?
wrenstudio.com

PARIS Given that everyone who works at Maison Martin Margiela (from head designers to interns) is clad in a lab-coat uniform, its no surprise that the house took a scientific approach to its collection for Atelier Swarovski. White resin pieces feature crystal stalactites fused with stainless-steel nuts and bolts.
swarovski.com

NEW YORK Tia Cibanis spring 2014 show channeled 40s Mexico, complete with Frida Kahloesque updos. A major talking point: the ankle-wrap sandals that Cibani designed in collaboration with Finnish shoe designer Julia Lundstenwhich made for a colorful dash of south-of-theborder style. tiacibani.com

NEW YORK After spending time under the tutelage of Ralph Rucci and Ohne Titel, this season Haiti-born designer Azede Jean-Pierre age 23is embarking on an eponymous line of technically innovative ready-to-wear. Our pick: her fanciful insect and toadstool prints for spring 2014.
azedejean-pierre.com

LONDON Brit jeweler Sarah Angold, whose otherworldly laser-cut acrylic creations have earned her a cult following and a capsule line at Topshop, is lending her skills to bag designer Kzeniya Oudenots trendbending range of clutches.
kzeniya.com

For Azede Jean-Pierres complete collection and an interview with the designer, go to ELLE.com/azedejeanpierre.

WorldMags.net EDITED BY ANNE SLOWEY

FASHION NEWS 173

WorldMags.net
Clockwise from top left: Fine by Dannijones unicorn charm; Jodie Snyder, Jones, and Danielle Snyder at the Dannijo showroom; a palm tree charm; the trio reviews the collection; the arrow necklace and stacking rings; Jones models ear cuffs, rings, and studs

YOUNG AT HEART
With a collection of childlike charms, Rashida Jones makes her first foray into jewelrythanks to an assist from the sisters behind Dannijo. By Vronique Hyland

Rashida Jones nes may not no have retained everything d every she learned in fourth grade, but she can tell you with certainty that her teacher, Miss Terhagen, always wore a gold pineapple anklet. That grade-school memory made it into Fine by Dannijones, the actresss collection of pendants, anklets, ear cuffs, and rings featuring four motifs: a pineapple, a palm tree, a unicorn, and a triple arrow. The pieces, done in collaboration with sisters Danielle and Jodie Snyder of Dannijo, will be sold on Dannijo.com starting in midNovember. For those familiar with the

Snyders yder oversize necklaces and arm-party baubles, the delicate charms may come as a bit of a surprise; this departure from house style is the result of Jones West Coast influence. In L.A., its harder to wear statement jewelry, the actress says. You want stuff thats secondskin-ythat you never take off. After meeting the sisters last year through a friend, Jones floated the idea of a fine-jewelry capsule, and the line germinated during bicoastal Skype sessions. Says Jones, Having just made a film that took four years [Celeste and Jesse Forever], I was delighted by how

quickly it came together. Its easy to tell that Jones has sisters of her own (jewelry y designer Kidada and 20-yearrold Kenya, an aspiring model) when she banters with Danielle and Jodie like an honorary member of the family. Today, sitting in their light-filled Meatpacking District showroom in New York, they pile on jewelry and brainstorm potential names for each piece. First up is the palm tree, a nod to the Snyders Florida origins. How do you mesh the words Florida and California together? asks Danielle. Floridafornia? hazards Jones. Thats disgusting. It

sounds like ipecac. Palm of your hand? Nah, thats a nail color for Essie. Next is the unicorn charm. As Jones puts it, For our generation, little girls and unicorns were kind of synonymous. It feels like its making a comeback. Like the fanny pack. And will the collections most unlikely muse, possibly still handing out worksheets somewhere in L.A., be informed of her part in it? Jones wrinkles her nose; clearly thats a no.

174 FASHION NEWS Jewelry

who was auditioning actors to play trolls in a fantasy film; one WorldMags.net claimed to be a trained unicorn rider.

On our shoot, Jones regaled the crew with her story of a friend

Portraits: Jason Frank Rothenberg (hair by Peter Butler for Wella Professionals at ABTP; makeup by Mari Shten at ABTP.com); still lifes: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Kristy Vant for Mark Edward Inc.)

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GLOBALWorldMags.net ENTRY
No time to dash to Dubrovnik for bijous? Shopping portal Farfetch does the work for you. By Alison S. Cohn

Last week I was in Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Tequila, Mexico, says Bertha Gonzlez Nieves. The week prior I was in Chicago, Miami, and Las Vegas. Since bringing Casa Dragonesa superpremium brand of 100 percent blue agave tequila to shelves with former AOL Time Warner COO Bob Pittman in 2009, the maestra tequilera has been constantly on the move. We go where the business is, she says, and they often go there on Pittmans yacht, Freedom, sister ship to the presidential yacht U.S.S. Sequoia. For a woman with such an enviable travel itinerary, it would be easy to hit all of the worlds top boutiques. But Gonzlez Nieves happens to be particularly jazzed about the perfect statement pieces shes picked up from far-flung places without ever getting off the boat: A wood and crystal Givenchy necklace from Maria in Dubrovnik, Croatia (4); Christian Dior scuba Maryjanes from Victoria 46 in Bucharest, Romania (5); and an embroidered fauxleather Stella McCartney clutch from Satine in Los Angeles (2) all arrived via Farfetch. The revolutionary e-com platform, created in 2008, allows customers to shop the picks of the worlds best curators, says founder and fashion entrepreneur Jos Neves. Buyers from an everexpanding geographical array of stores280 in 24 countries across three continents at press timelist their favorite pieces on the site, which

Gonzlez Nieves on Freedom

are available to be shipped worldwide via DHL Express in Gonzlez Nieves case, to whichever port of call she may presently consider home. So, whats currently in her shopping basket? Anything resembling the major eyewear statement seen on Fendis spring runway (1), such as rounded cat-eye Leisure Society shades from Amarees in Newport Beach, California (3). Giant sunglasses are a beautiful way of providing yourself with privacy on the go, says Gonzlez Nieves. You create this little space for yourself.

WorldMags.net 176 FASHION NEWS Shop Talk

To see more of Gonzlez Nieves favorite Farfetch finds, set sail for ELLE.com/farfetchpicks.

Portrait: Peter Freed; runway: Imaxtree.com; interiors and exterior: courtesy of the stores; still lifes: courtesy of the designers

2013 EA Fragrances Co. Viva La Juicy is a trademark owned by Juicy Couture, Inc. and is used under license.

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AT NORDSTROM & BLOOMINGDALES

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(From left) Judges Charlotte Ronson, Ashley Madekwe, Rocha, and Louise Roe; the shows beauty look: wet hair and cat-eye liner

(From left) ELLE FASHION | NEXT run of show; Invasion of the Body Snatchers look by Hougen

NEW YORK MINUTE


Ciprianos peach wool and perforated PVC winner

A pair of freshly minted fashion-school grads wows the crowd during New York Fashion Week at the fourth annual ELLE FASHION | NEXT show. By Alison S. Cohn
I was just lying in bed in London watching this awful reality show, Made in Chelsea, says Caroline Hougen, recalling the moment she found out that she had won the ELLE FASHION | NEXT Design Award. My brother called me to say, You won! and I said, No, I didnt, this is an awful, awful joke, and he said, No, seriously. For the 25-yearold, the realization that she was one of two recipients each awarded a $25,000 prize at ELLEs fourth annual FASHION | NEXT show finally sank in when her brother texted her a picture of himself, receiving the prize in her stead, next to editor-inchief Robbie Myers: Okay, I said. I believe you now. The show, which took place September 6 at Lincoln Centerhome of New York Fashion Weekwas held in partnership with the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC). Hougen missed it because she was

(From left) The promenade at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center; Dawkins and Cipriano

completing the last week of her summer internship at Topshop, obtaining the sort of real-world experience fledgling designers dream of. But her clothes, including a deceptively pretty floral maxidress and plaid overcoat inspired by Invasion of the Body Snatchers, more than did her justice before a panel of ELLE editors and fashionindustry judges that included Pamela Love, Coco Rocha, Creatures of the Winds Shane Gabier, and Timo Weiland and his codesigner, Alan Eckstein. Expectations were high among the judges. I hope that your future McQueens, Gaultiers, and Zac Posens are in this line of people, said Rocha. (Posen has often shown his grandiose eveningwear collection on this very same promenade.) Consensus seemed to be that the panelists wanted a big statementbut one that wasnt so big it could only come out after dark. They

sought, in Loves words, an effortlessness thats still sophisticated and edgy. This tall order was also met by 22-year-old Savannah Cipriano, whose peach wool and perforated PVC dress and red vinyl skirt with cutout details earned her the Maybelline New York Design Visionary Award. Her shapes are architectural, but there is a wearability and an accessibility, said the companys vice president of marketing, Carolyn Dawkins. As the winners see it, their prize money will unlock many doors. I was having a ton of panic attacks because I kept thinking New York was definitely the next step I need to take, but I couldnt afford to move there, says Hougen. As for Cipriano, Im hoping to open a studioslash-storefront, and I almost signed a lease for a place in Chicago, but then it fell through, she reports. So this opens up a whole new world of possibilities.

WorldMags.net 178 NEWS Fashion| Next

Read all about FASHION | NEXT and the 2013 collections at ELLE.com/fashionnext.

Show: Hao Zeng (4); Dawkins and Cipriano and judges: Getty Images for ELLE; runway, bottom: Imaxtree.com

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MOTORCYCLE DIARIES
During London Fashion Week, 50 bikersplus the one and only David Beckhamstorm New Bond Street to fete the opening of Belstaffs flagship. By Alison S. Cohn

(Clockwise from left) Andreea Diaconu; ride participants on New Bond Street; Campbell and Otis Ferry; Fleurance Meijer (left) and Jacqueline Oloniceva; Le Bon

(Clockwise from top left) Viera-Newton; Beckham greets his fans; acrobatics on wheels; Belstaff House exterior; view inside Belstaff House; Belstaff vice chairman Harry Slatkin (right) and Laura Slatkin

The King of Cool Steve McQueen wore one. As did Lawrence of Arabia, Che Guevara, Amelia Earhart, and Harry Potter. The article in question is a classic four-pocket motorcycle jacket by British heritage brand Belstaff. Founded in 1924 and recently relaunched by Labelux Group (which also owns Jimmy Choo), Belstaff has revved its engine, so to speak, with a full range of moto finery such as buttery leather trousers and silky tailored iterations of its outerwear, as well as fullon runway shows. The brand celebrated the grand opening of its new flagship, Belstaff House, on a dark and stormyi.e., typically Englishnight during London Fashion Week: Bright Young Brits such as Edie Campbell, Amber

Le Bon, and Harley VieraNewton turned out in force on New Bond Street to cheer on a team of 50 bikers on mounts ranging from a 1954 Excelsior Consort to a 1979 BMW R80who had completed a rainy 64mile ride from historic Goodwood House in West Sussex to the center of London. They were treated to the sight of UK national treasure and new campaign star David Beckham on his Super Vintage 93-inch Knuckle. Im a huge fan of Steve McQueen for many reasonsyou know, his talent, his style, his looks and to be a part of a brand that is so historical is a huge honor, said the man of the hour, whose own collection of 12 motorcycles has been well documented by the Los Angeles paparazzi, modestly.

180 FASHION NEWS Road Trips

behind-the-scenes video of the star-studded ride WorldMags.net to Belstaff House.

Kick it into high gear at ELLE.com/belstaff for a

Diaconu, ride participants, Meijer and Oloniceva, Le Bon, and Beckham: Benjamin McMahon; remaining images: courtesy of Belstaff

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Mark Platt (styled by Melissa Nicole Buck at RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide

Its that time again. Gifting season is upon us, and even in the midst of all that is festivewhat is it about the simple pleasure of a single strand of twinkling lights? matching the present to the persnickety recipient can be a challenge. As usual, our fearless editors have come to the rescue, with 139 products for everyone on your list yes, even the walking contradictions among us. From a gold-plated Xbox 360 for the most glamorous of gamers to a Warhol camo-print longboard for the pop artsavvy surfer, its all here. Happy shopping!
Brass clutches, all, BENEDETTA BRUZZICHES , $1,200 each, visit benedettabruzziches.com. Amber lights on copper wire, RH, RESTORATION HARDWARE , $50, visit rh.com

THIS MONTH IN SHOPS: Be a good sport with the seasons athletic accessories page 186 // Toys for tots of all ages page 190 // Travel-inspired gifts from around the globe page 196 // ELLE Exclusive: a hand-painted bag from Roger Vivier page 204

EDITED BY JOANN PAILEY

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SHOPS Gift Guide 185

TEAMWorldMags.net
On or off the court, these athletics-inspired extras are winning picks
Emilio Pucci

SPIRIT

GO AHEAD, FEED THEIR COMPETITIVE STREAK Wooden racquetball set, ARTEMARE , $196, visit bespokeglobal.com

A TOUCHDOWN FOR DESIGN SNOBS Snakeskin football, ELISABETH WEINSTOCK , $975, collection at Maxfield, L.A.

A MASTERPIECE ON THE WAVESOR ON THE WALL Limited-edition Andy Warhol Camo surfboard, TIM BESSELL ARTIST SERIES SURFBOARDS , price on request, visit gagosian.com/shop

HIGH FASHION ROCKS THE ROLLER DERBY Leather roller skate, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE , $1,150, at Saint Laurent, NYC

YOU CAN WEAR ANY SHOES YOU LIKE Beech mini bowling set, MOMA DESIGN STORE , $25, visit momastore.org FOR THE HIKER WHO WOULDNT BE CAUGHT DEAD IN FLEECE Snakeskin backpack, PIERRE HARDY, $2,995, visit pierrehardy.com

INSTANT REC ROOM UPGRADE Lacquered burled-wood dartboard set, JONATHAN ADLER , $295, at Jonathan Adler stores nationwide

186 SHOPS Gift Guide

staffers are giving (and hoping to receive) for the WorldMags.net holiday season at ELLE.com/giftguides.

Want to shop like an ELLE editor? Find out what our

Runway: Imaxtree.com; racquetball set: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Mary Ellen Medonis for Mark Edward Inc.); football: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); surfboard: Tim Bessell Artist Series Surfboards, courtesy Gagosian Gallery; remaining still lifes: courtesy of the brands; for details, see Shopping Guide

IF SHES MORE SPORTIF THAN SPORTY Silk scarf, HERMS , $325, visit hermes.com

EVEN GYM BAGS GET THE HERMS TREATMENT Calfskin headphone-cord reel, HERMS , $195, at Herms stores nationwide

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PLAY WorldMags.net MATES


Alexander Wang

The latest toys, games, and gadgets prove you never y have to g p really grow up

INDOOR/OUTDOOR LUDDITE FUN Weather-resistant foosball table, RS BARCELONA , $3,450, collection available at shophorne.com

PAC-MAN GOES DOMESTIC Ceramic salt and pepper shaker set, FRED FLARE , $18, visit fredflare.com

AN OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD STOCKING STUFFER Silicone tea infuser, CB2, $7, at CB2 stores nationwide THIS LITTLE MONSTER WILL BE HER FASHION MASCOT Fox fur and leather key chain, FENDI, $580, at Fendi, NYC

ITS A 24-KARAT-GOLD-PLATED XBOX 360. NEED WE SAY MORE? Xbox 360, ADEMOV/COMPUTER CHOPPERS , $4,995, visit ademov.com KATY PERRY WOULD APPROVE Perspex clutch, CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA , $1,295, at Charlotte Olympia, NYC

SHOW THEM YOU, TOO, TAKE THE GAME SERIOUSLY Leather Scrabble set, COACH, $698, visit coach.com A SPRING, A SPRING, A MARVELOUS THING! 14-karat-gold-coated steel Slinky, SLINKY, $150, collection at Blue Tree, NYC

GIVE LUCK, GET LUCKY? Crystal-adorned dice set, RENZO ROMAGNOLI, $98, collection at barneys.com

LOOKS LIKE A LEGO, SOUNDS LIKE A 14-HOUR DANCE PARTY Portable Bluetooth speakers, all, NATIVE UNION, $150 each, visit nativeunion.com

190 SHOPS Gift Guide

Stadium , a 23-foot foosball table with room for 11 WorldMags.net players on each side.

Game on: In 1991, artist Maurizio Cattelan created

Runway: Imaxtree.com; salt and pepper shaker set and speakers: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); Slinky: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); Scrabble set and Perspex clutch: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining still lifes: courtesy of the brands; for details, see Shopping Guide

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WorldMags.net FASHIONISTAS BIG AND LITTLE


Balmain

Presenting of-the-moment pieces for trendsetters of all ages (and, hey, who doesnt love a good Mommie Dearest reference?)
INSPIRE BUDDING MARCS, COCOS, AND KARLS The Fashion Coloring Book , by Carol Chu and Lulu Chang, HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT, $12, at select Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide

INSTAGRAM FODDER FOR YOUR PRECOCIOUS NIECE: Chain-mail clutch, TOMMY HILFIGER , $39, visit tommy.com THROW SOME CAMP ON HER COUCH Needlepoint wool pillow, JONATHAN ADLER , $165, at Jonathan Adler stores nationwide

TONIGHTS PARTY, IN THE BAG Leather and goldtrim audio clutch, REBECCA MINKOFF FOR STELL AUDIO COUTURE, $399, collection at Nordstrom stores nationwide

SENSIBLY WARM NEW YEARS EVE ATTIRE? WE FOUND IT. Nylon jacket, MONCLER , $1,895, at Moncler, NYC

MINI-ME SHOES THAT MOMS WILL COVET Childrens calfskin sandals, all, SOPHIA WEBSTER MINI, prices on request, visit sophiawebster.co.uk

TRAVELS AS SMOOTHLY AS BOND Nylon and canvas folding garment bag, VALEXTRA , $2,920, collection at barneys.com

BECAUSE TRUE FASHION SENSE NEVER SLEEPS Silk pajama set, PROENZA SCHOULER , $685, at Proenza Schouler, NYC

HANDMADE PLATFORMS TO ELEVATE HER FASHION LIBRARY: Silver alloy bookends, LUNARES , $275 (for set of 2), visit lunareshome.com; French Style, by Brnice Vila Baudry, ASSOULINE , $65, visit assouline.com; Debutantes: When Glamour Was Born, by Diana Oswald, RIZZOLI, $55, visit amazon.com; Art of the 20th Century, edited by Ingo F. Walther, TASCHEN, $40, at Taschen, NYC; The Fashion Book , by Phaidon, PHAIDON PRESS , $60, visit phaidon.com

A DECK THAT WINS EVERY TIME Playing cards, PROENZA SCHOULER , $65, at Proenza Schouler, NYC

192 SHOPS Gift Guide

from the chicest daughters (and their moms) at WorldMags.net ELLE.com/mothersanddaughters.

Suri and Katie. Apple and Gwyneth. We get styling tips

Runway: Imaxtree.com; Tommy Hilfiger clutch, Moncler jacket, Rebecca Minkoff for Stell Audio Couture clutch, and coloring book: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); Proenza Schouler pajama set: Philip Friedman/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); books and bookends: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining still lifes: courtesy of the brands; for details, see Shopping Guide

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Fit to atter.

Love how you feel.

MONTREAL
From capris to boot cuts, skinnies, ares and straights, you'll nd your perfect t at lisettemontreal.com/elle

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2013 LisetteL

Sparkling objets prove that diamondsand all manner of glittering baublesreally are a girls best friend
AN OUTSIDE-OF-THE-BOX WAY TO STORE JEWELRY Lacquered-wood boxes, all, THOMASPAUL , $24$50, visit shopthomaspaul.com

WorldMags.net THE BLING RING


Rochas

JUST A LITTLE SOMETHING TO SHOW YOU CARE Turquoise, diamond, gold, and platinum necklace, JEAN SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO., price on request, call 800843-3269

ICE THAT COULD MELT ANY GIRLS HEART Topaz, diamond, and rose gold necklace, SUZANNE KALAN, price on request, collection at Fragments, NYC

DRESS UP HER TOUCH-UP Crystal-embellished compact, LULU FROST FOR BOBBI BROWN, $150, visit bobbibrowncosmetics.com
Runway: Imaxtree.com; compact and Marie-Hlne de Taillac rings and jewelry box: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); napkins and bar gadget set: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); wood boxes and ice bucket: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining still lifes: courtesy of the brands; for details, see Shopping Guide

A BLACK-TIE BAR ACCOUTREMENT Silver-plated brass ice bucket, RALPH LAUREN HOME , $495, visit ralphlaurenhome.com

FOR YOUR IN-HOUSE MIXOLOGIST Stainless-steel bar gadget set, ANTHROPOLOGIE , $58, visit anthropologie.com

WARNING: SHELL WANT ONE FOR EVERY FINGER! Gold and sapphire ring, price on request; gold and rainbow moonstone ring, $4,250; gold and tanzanite ring, price on request; gold and pink sapphire ring, price on request; leather jewelry box, $900, all, MARIE-HLNE DE TAILLAC , visit Marie-Hlne de Taillac, NYC

A HOSTESS GIFT FOR EVERY FETE ON YOUR CIRCUIT Linen and cotton napkins, ANTHROPOLOGIE , $22 (for set of four), at Anthropologie stores nationwide

A BOOK ALMOST AS LUXE AS THE JEWELS IT COVERS JAR Paris, by Joel Arthur Rosenthal, POTTERTON BOOKS , $750, call 212-872-2874

A COCKTAIL RING FOR THE LIFE OF THE PARTY Diamond, gemstone, and gold ring, RINA LIMOR FINE JEWELRY, price on request, at select Neiman Marcus stores nationwide

GRAB THE SMELLING SALTS: 950 DIAMONDS WILL MAKE THEM SEE STARS Diamond and platinum necklace, VISNJA JEWELS , price on request, call 212-226-2621

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I dont exercise. If God had wanted us to bend over, hed have put diamonds on the floor.Joan Rivers

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Hank Ch

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Hard-to-shop-fors have you stumped? We trawled the globe to find surprises for jet-setters and homebodies alike

Lanvin
REFRAME HER OUTLOOK Sunglasses, MISSONI, $270, similar styles at Missoni, NYC

LIKE EDIBLE WORKS OF ART World Series handcrafted organic chocolate bars, COMPARTS CHOCOLATIER , $10 each, visit compartes.com

FUN FACT: WOOD KEEPS IT COOL LONGER THAN GLASS Black walnut martini glass set, DAVID RASMUSSEN, $100 (for set of 2), visit uncommongoods.com

PUT A SMILE ON EVERY CUSTOMS OFFICER Leather passport covers, SMYTHSON, $150 each, at Smythson, NYC

FOR THE MUSICALLYOR JUST AESTHETICALLY INCLINED Embossed leather guitar case, ETRO, price on request, at Etro, NYC

EVEN 37E FEELS LIKE FIRST CLASS Leather eye mask, BOTTEGA VENETA , $250, at Bottega Veneta boutiques nationwide

MANAGE UP Jumbo leather paper clips, COACH , $98 each, at select Coach stores nationwide

THE COLORBLOCKING TREND HITS BARWARE Handblown glass pitcher with stir stick, TWO TONE STUDIOS , $250, visit twotonestudios.com INSPIRED BY MAN RAYS FRIENDSHIP WITH MARCEL DUCHAMP. BEAT THAT. Beech chessboard, $210, wood and felt chess pieces, $380, all, MOMA DESIGN STORE , visit momastore.org INCENTIVIZE LOOKING IT UP THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY Goatskin dictionaries and thesauruses, all, GRAPHIC IMAGE FOR BERGDORF GOODMAN, $168 each, at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC

GIVE EVERY TRIP A SUNNY FORECAST Leather luggage tag, PRADA , $195, visit prada.com

LOW-TECH FEEL, HIGH-TECH PERFORMANCE Leather iPad case and keyboard, RH, RESTORATION HARDWARE , $149, visit rh.com

WorldMags.net 196 SHOPS Gift Guide

Want even more ideas for the perfect presents? Visit ELLE.com/giftguides.

Runway: Imaxtree.com; paper clips, dictionaries and thesauruses, passport covers, iPad case and keyboard, and martini glass set: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); chocolate bars: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); chessboard and chess pieces: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Mary Ellen Medonis for Mark Edward Inc.); remaining still lifes: courtesy of the brands; for details, see Shopping Guide

WorldMags.net ADVANCED PLACEMENT

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GIVE THE BEST GIFT


ON TWO FEET.

This holiday season, with all the talk about warming someones heart, let us not forget their feet. Gold Toe socks are the perfect gift, available in so many styles and colors, youve got the entire family covered. Plus that famous Gold Toe durability means these socks are always a great value. And after all, whats more important during the holiday season, than family and values.

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Green thumbs and gourmands will flip for flora- and faunainspired accessories

WorldMags.net MIRACLE GROW


Dolce & Gabbana
PUPPET SHOW MAGIC AND COZY, TOO Organic cotton and cashmere baby mittens, STELLA MCCARTNEY, $55, collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC

YOU CAN ALMOST SMELL THE DEW... Eau de parfum roller-balls, NEST FRAGRANCES , $25 each, at select Sephora stores nationwide
Runway: Imaxtree.com; Stella McCartney mittens and D.L. & Co. candles: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); snowshoes, roller-balls, and money bank: Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (styled by Sabrina Grande for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining still lifes: courtesy of the brands; for details, see Shopping Guide

WHO NEEDS SOULCYCLE? SNOWSHOEING TORCHES UP TO 1000 CALORIES PER HOUR Ash, rawhide, and copper snowshoes, KAUFMANN MERCANTILE , $252, visit kaufmann-mercantile.com

AFTER A HARD DAY OF GARDENING... Brass bottle opener, AERIN, $75, visit aerin.com

JUST ADD A BOW Floral-scented candles, D.L. & CO., $80 each, collection at Blue Tree, NYC

FASHIONS FAVORITE ILLUSTRATOR GETS FUNGI Notecards, HAPPY MENOCAL , $46 (for a set of 12), visit happymenocal.com

THE HAUTE-EST TOTE OF ALL Embroidered naturalcanvas tote, REED KRAKOFF, $1,890, visit reedkrakoff.com

DONT WAIT FOR YOUR FROG TO TURN INTO A PRINCE: START SAVING NOW Silver alloy and 24K gold money bank, LUNARES , $42, visit lunareshome.com

A COOKIE JAR THAT REALLY LISTENS Ceramic container, MOMA DESIGN STORE , $50, visit momastore.org

VERMONT MADE, CHEFBELOVED, TOTALLY ADDICTIVE Goats-milk caramel gift set, FAT TOAD FARM , $50, visit fattoadfarm.com

198 SHOPS Gift Guide

look like a million bucks? Hip florists JamJar give us the goods WorldMags.net on party planning at ELLE.com/jamjar.

The perfect floral arrangement for a dinner? Bodega blooms that

KABANA. All designs protected by copyright laws. All rights reserved. Reproduction/Duplication prohibited.

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THE RIVIERA COLLECTION


multicolor spiny oyster and mother of pearl, yellow gold

MADE IN U.S.A.
For your nearest retailer call 800.521.5986 or visit us at www.kabana.net WorldMags.net

Since 1975

WorldMags.net PRETTY
Whats cooking, goodlooking? From lush brushes to fresh juices, these beauty-inspired finds will thrill makeup obsessives and manly men alike

PLEASE

HANDCRAFTED BRUSHES FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT CANVAS 24-piece brush set, CLAUDIO RIAZ, $1,525, collection at barneys.com

Prada

HE WONT STEAL YOUR PRODUCTS ANYMORE Oil-free moisturizer, $20; face wash, $15; herbal-mint toner, $18; all, BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA , visit baxterofcalifornia.com

GIVE WORKAHOLICS AN EXCUSE TO CATNAP Silk-satin sleep set (slippers and mask), CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA , $695, at Charlotte Olympia, NYC

A STACHE FOR THE PRE-SHAVE SET Childrens cotton sweater, GAPKIDS , $33, visit gapkids.com THE CHICEST WAY TO SLOUGH Exfoliating gel caviar scrub, BALENCIAGA , $95, collection at neimanmarcus.com WHO SAYS PERFECTIONISM ISNT A GIFT? Brass comb and carrying pouch, IZOLA , $27, collection at westelm.com

SURREALISM MEETS OLD HOLLYWOOD Patent leather clutch, LULU GUINNESS , $360, visit luluguinness.com

TURN TALONS INTO TALKING POINTS Engraved brass nail set, K/LLER , $450, visit barneys.com

ZILLION-PLY CASHMERE IS NOTHING TO TOY WITH Scented detergent, FRETTE , $65, visit frette.com

A NEW YEARS RESOLUTION ON THE DOORSTEP Life Juice 12-pack assorted juice cleanse, WILLIAMSSONOMA , $120, visit williams-sonoma.com

EVEN HER FLATIRON WILL FIT Stamped-leather handbag, EMPORIO ARMANI, $1,375, visit armani.com

WorldMags.net 200 SHOPS Gift Guide

Balenciagas indulgent scrub doesnt contain any actual caviar, but it is scented with the houses signature violet fragrance.

Runway: Imaxtree.com; face wash, moisturizer, toner, and comb and pouch: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Mary Ellen Medonis for Mark Edward Inc.); Emporio Armani handbag: Ben Goldstein/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); remaining still lifes: courtesy of the brands; for details, see Shopping Guide

THE ART OF CLUTTER MANAGEMENT Laminated fiberboard sunglasses case, CAMILLA , $1,200, visit camillacamilla.com

PERFECTLY POSH FLATS TO SHOWCASE HER PEDI Patent leather sandals, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, $595 per pair, at select Christian Louboutin stores nationwide

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BIG TIME

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Diamond bezel white gold watch on alligator strap, PATEK PHILIPPE , price on request, visit patek.com

Oversize faces are the up-tothe-minute trend in watches, in designs to suit every personality

Gold and steel watch on leather strap, HERMS , price on request, at Herms boutiques nationwide

Nina Ricci

White gold, sapphire, mother-of-pearl, and diamond watch on ceramic strap, DIOR TIMEPIECES , price on request, visit dior.com

Titanium and stainlesssteel watch on rubber strap, RAYMOND WEIL, price on request, at Tourneau boutiques nationwide

Rose gold and silver watch, AUDEMARS PIGUET, price on request, at Audemars Piguet, NYC

Ceramic and stainless-steel watch on rubber strap, OMEGA , price on request, at Omega boutiques nationwide

Brass watch on nylon strap, TIMEX , $45, visit timex.com

Steel, ceramic, and diamond watch, TAG HEUER , $2,400, at Tag Heuer boutiques nationwide

Stainless-steel, rhodium, and crystal watch on rubber strap, SWAROVSKI, $810, at select Swarovski boutiques nationwide

Gold-tone stainless-steel and acetate watch, MICHAEL KORS , $325, call 866-709-KORS

WorldMags.net 202 SHOPS Gift Guide

EDITED BY MARIA DUEAS JACOBS

Runway: Imaxtree.com; still lifes: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

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WorldMags.net PAINT BY NUMBERS


Finished with all your holiday shopping? Wrapped all your presents? Reward yourself for a job well done, with the ultimate accessory: Roger Viviers Prismick Fleur Tattoo chainstrap bag, part of the houses Rendez-Vous collection for spring 2014. The patent leather bags are individually hand-painted with semitransparent inks for a watercolor effect, making each piece one of a kind. The only thing this work of art is missing? A frame.
Limited-edition silk-screened patent leather handbag, ROGER VIVIER , $4,850, to special order, call 212-861-5371

204 SHOPS ELLE Exclusive

for Iranian princess Soraya. The shoes, now held in the maisons WorldMags.net archives, were valued at $26,385 as of 2011.

In 1962, Roger Vivier handcrafted faux-topaz-embellished slippers

Mark Platt (styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide

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Styles may vary by store. ELLE is a trademark owned by HACHETTE FILIPACCHI PRESSE SA, Paris, France.

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JACKET, $120; SWEATER, $58; PLEATED SKIRT, $48; PUMP, $69.99; EARRINGS, $24; RING, $32; HANDBAG, $89. Model is wearing The Lash Look Sultry mascara, $16; blush in shade 07, $16; lip gloss in shade 08, $16.

Shop the ELLE Contemporary and Cosmetics Collections at Kohls.com/elle

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Styled by James Worthington DeMolet; hair by Martin-Christopher Ryan for Tigi at Kate Ryan Inc.; makeup by Ralph Siciliano at D+V Management; manicure by Kelly B for Chanel Beaut at De Facto

HEART BROKER
As a hypersexy foil to Leonardo DiCaprios randy rainmaker in The Wolf of Wall Street, Margot Robbie shows us the money. By Justine Harman
Photographed by BRUNO STAUB

When Margot Robbie is angling for an audition, she invariably runs lines on her submission tape withwho else?Dylan, the agreeable guy who works in her managers digital department. What the tactic lacks in polish, it makes up for in charm. So much so that when the time came for Ellen Lewis, Martin Scorseses longtime casting director, to cast the role of NaomiLeonardo DiCaprios manipulative, Versace-clad second wife in The Wolf of Wall Street (based on the memoirs of 90s stock Svengali Jordan Belfort)Robbies tape compelled Lewis to take a closer look. And despite a short list rumored to include Blake Lively and Amber Heard, upon meeting Robbie, Lewis says the role was hers pretty much right away. Such is the lure of the 23-year-old Gold Coast native who in 2008, fresh out of high school, parlayed a guest stint as a bisexual groupie on Aussie serial Neighbours into a recurring character she played until relocating to Los Angeles in 2011. A season on the doomed ABC drama Pan Am was followed by Robbies big-screen break: a role in the Rachel McAdamsDomhnall Gleeson romance About Time, out now. Then, she zeroed in on Marty. My managers were like, Look, its a Scorsese film, Robbie says from New Orleans, where shes filming the con-artist caper Focus opposite Will Smith. None of us are actually expecting you to be cast. Dylan cleared his schedule anyway. Cut to the chemistry test with DiCaprio, where Robbie practically jammed her five-inch stiletto down the actors throat. Its a very provocative film, says Lewis, and she wasnt intimidated. The reTHIS MONTH IN INTEL MOVIES sulting sceneRobbie reduces Spike Jonzes fractured DiCaprio to rubble with a futuristic fairy tale, Her page magenta mini dress hiked up 211 // TV Why television around her hipsis every bit as always needs the Mean Girl; sexy as it sounds. When I got example par excellence: the material, I didnt like the Jamie: Private School Girl character, Robbie says. But page 212 // THEATER HBOs captivating Stephen Sondheim by the time we got to shooting, I loved her. Shes a badass documentary page 212 // BOOKS Erica Jong: Forty years whos making lemonadewith no fucking lemons. of fearless flying! page 218

Robbie on DiCaprio: Hes like a kid who cant sit still. When he tells a story, its a 15-minute reenactmentcomplete with sound effects. He can also beat box really well.

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INTEL Headliner 209

WorldMags.net

[REVIEW]

The animus radiated everywhere and at everyone by Meryl Streep as the Weston family matriarch in August: Osage County causes terrors that you cant take your eyes off of. By Karen Durbin
Over the course of her busy career, Meryl Streep has played plenty of good girls and good women, but the bad ones have been surprisingly sparse: It pretty much comes down to The Devil Wears Pradas Miranda Priestly and The Iron Ladys Margaret Thatcher. Our greatest living film actress has never played a really terrible womansay, a Medeaon screen or stage: until now. Thats essentially her role in John Wells hilarious, hair-raising film version of Tracy Letts Pulitzer Prizewinning play August: Osage County. Never mind ancient Greecethis Medea, Streeps Violet Weston, is firmly rooted in the Oklahoma plains and in a family so dysfunctional you have to see it to believe it; and quite happily, you do. Unlike her classical antecedent, Violet hasnt killed her childrenat least not literallyand when we first meet her with her fuzzy chemo hair, shes busy chain-smoking and woozily popping fistfuls of pills because, as she repeatedly reminds everyone, shes got mouth cancer. In Euripides earthy, unsparing tragedy, horrific chills and thrills override any sympathy his spurned woman earns. Sympathy is in short supply for Violet, toonot that she wants anybut the movies fearless, down-to-the-bone black humor is, by contrast, guaranteed to keep you laughing your head off. And that laughter is cathartic, as it registers the shock of recognition. Two of this rich, intimate, and

NUCLEAR FAMILY

(From left) Roberts, Streep, and Nicholson face off

wholly alive movies most cyclonic scenes play out on that ubiquitous battlefield, the family dinner table. Violet actually does have an unspecified form of cancer in her mouth, and because its fatal, the members of the long-scattered Weston clan descend on the homestead and its monstrous matriarch with varying degrees of reluctance. One Weston even upstages her by dying first. Some of these people may not be lovable, but theyre full of surprises and fascinating to watch. Streep is the pivot that spins this darkly comic drama, but shes in great company. Violet and her withdrawn, alcoholic poethusband (Sam Shepard) have three daughters: Barbara (Julia Roberts) is newly separated from her own poet-husband (Ewan McGregor); the plain-jane Ivy (Julianne Nicholson) has a secret lover among the clan (Benedict Cumberbatch) whos so shy and self-abasing you fear for them both; and

the ditzy Karen (Juliette Lewis) is the one sister who actually did escape the familyonly to return with her flashy, pot-smoking fianc (Dermot Mulroney), who wastes no time beelining for Barbaras pretty 15-year-old (Abigail Breslin). Also on hand is Johnna (Misty Upham), the Native American woman hired to look after Violet who, in comedy parlance, plays straight man to everyone elses crazywhich makes her explosive encounter with Karens lecherous future husband one of the movies most memorable and satisfying scenes. Its one of the sillier unspoken rules of the Academy Awards that comedies never win Best Picturepresumably because they tend toward the lightweight. But what about a realistic, sharp-edged familyfeud send-up like August: Osage County? It deserves a nomination. Though it was made on a Hollywoodmodest $25 million budget,

210 INTEL Movies

Five other Pulitzer-winning plays adapted for the silver screen: Driving Miss Daisy (1989), Glengarry Glen Ross (1992), Rent (2005), Doubt (2008), Rabbit Hole (2010)

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2013 The Weinstein Company. All Rights Reserved

Clockwise from top left: 2013 The Weinstein Company. All Rights Reserved; photograph by Kerry Hayes 2012 Relativity Media, All rights reserved; Alison Rosa, 2012 Long Strange Trip LLC; Anne Marie Fox/Focus Features; Sam Zhu; Merrick Morton

everything about it is first-rate. It doesnt hurt that the gifted cast is frontloaded with A-list Oscar bait: Streep and Roberts are both in top formnot as glamorous stars but as gifted actors taking themselves to another level. Roberts, who remains Americas cinematic sweetheart, never softens her tough, confrontational Barbaraalthough she flinches when Ivy tells her that shes the one most like their mother. As for Streep, she shows us how Violet isnt

TRUST US WorldMags.net
[MOVIES]

FIRE AND BRIMSTONE The Weston clan convenes A superb Christian Bale is first among equals in Scott Coopers

anything so outlandish as a monster; shes something worsea predator. Watching her at the dinner table, you see her quietly surveying the
[DIRECTORS SPOTLIGHT]

family; suddenly her eyes go hard, her voice rises to a roar, and she lunges at her chosen targetwhich, thanks to the camera angle, is us.

Out of the Furnace, a rust-belt tragedy of two brothers. Bales Russell is planning a future with the woman he adores (Zoe Saldana), but his younger brother (Casey Affleck), just home from Iraq, gets caught up with a sadistic drug kingpin (Woody Harrelson). Pearl Jam and Eddie Vedder perfectly capture the storys heartbroken beauty.

ONLY CONNECT
Spike Jonze leads us into a softly disorienting near-future metropolis in which lonely people explore how much invisible digital companions can compensate for human disconnection
outside the theater and got to talk to you right when you came out. Were you emotional when you left? Did I cry? Yep. But what sets this romantic tragicomedy apart is its techy twist: Theodore falls for someone who has the name Samantha and the dulcet voice of Scarlett Johansson, but she isnt all there. Shes the brave new operating system in his computer. She knows a lot about Theodore. Shes engineered to please. How creepy is that, exactly? Like all of Adams and Phoenix; Jonzes movies, this one is a cabinet of (below) Phoenix and wonders, and not everything behind Jonze on set those little doors is harmless. Jonze isnt your usual filmmaker. His filmA new film by Spike Jonze deserves to be ography tells the storyfour terrific feature greeted with floodlights films and a gazillion shorts: highly acclaimed roaming the night sky music videos, an occasional documentary, first, because he makes even commercials. I had the idea to destroy movies of joyous origi- a Gap store, he says, and they let me do it. nality and imagination, As for the blockbusters, I never felt like, Oh, and second, because he okay. Now Im graduating to big movies. I doesnt make them often. Being John Malkovich, love feature films, but Ive always thrived on his thrillingly nutty, Oscar-nominated first wherever an idea leads you. One of Jonzes best came while he was editing feature, came out almost 15 years ago, followed by Adaptation. (2002), his most cerebral film, Adaptation. and wanted a break, and Weezer and Where the Wild Things Are (2009), his most asked him to make a video for Island in the touching. That is, until his new movie, Her, star- Sun. The song is a treat, but the idea Jonze ring a soulful Joaquin Phoenix as Theodore came up with was magic. Up in the rolling hills whos still hurting from a painful divorce and above L.A., Weezer didnt mind being upstaged whose job is to write intimate, often difficult by some animals he brought in: a bear, a chimletters for other peopleand Amy Adams as panzee, two lions, a bunch of Labradors, and his romantically disappointed neighbor. Its some orange-striped cats. They were young, an emotional movie about relationships and and the humans became children too, rompour need to connect and our failures and fears ing, cuddling, and snoozing, gobsmacked by of connecting, Jonze says. I so wish Id been the innocence that lives in us all.K.D.

VILLAGE PEOPLE The Brothers Coen give us a protagonist even a mother cant love with Oscar Isaacs titular role in Inside Llewyn Davis, playing a 1960s-era folk singer so irritating you want him to get smacked which happens in the second scene. Isaac is a charismatic singer; as rival musicians, Justin Timberlake is fun, and Carey Mulligan is whinybut the most soulful character is the cat.

STRANGE BEDFELLOWS Matthew McConaughey outdoes himself as a womanizing Texas good ol boy in 1986 whos stunned to learn he has HIV in Jean-Marc Valles exhilarating, fact-based Dallas Buyers Club. Brutalized by his pals and handed an apparent death sentence, he joins forces with Jared Leto as a gorgeous, street-smart transsexual and Jennifer Garner as a fearless doctor to save his own and many others lives.K.D.

Want a dose of what Spike Jonze calls cute porn? Head over to ELLE.com/jonze for more from the director on Weezers 2004 Island in the Sun music videoand watch it too.

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WorldMags.net THE MUSIC MAN


[THEATER]

[TV]

If we dont say it, she certainly will. Perhaps thats why well never stop lovingor learning fromthe mean girl
In mockumentary ensemble hits We Can Be Heroes (Sundance, 2006) and Summer Heights High (HBO, 2008), American audiences fell for Australian comedian/writer/ director/actor Chris Lilleys gender-swapped portrayal of contemptuous private-school queen bee Jamie (pronounced Juh-may) King, she who excels at breaking the spirits of the unpopular girls, the less fortunate, and the lowly lower classmateswhile still boasting, Like, everyone thinks Im really nice. On November 24, Jamie returns to headline her own half-hour, six-episode HBO series, Jamie: Private School Girl, and shes set to terrorize at full tilt. Degrading (I had to get rid of [my old friend group], cause like, Brianna, my bestie, was like, she kinda got really weird and fat), homophobic (yelled at a girl in the locker room: Some of us are straight in heredont look!), and racist (trust us), Jamies derision is certainly terrible, but it never keeps us from watching, and at times reveling in, her skill at eviscerating any target. People ask me if girls would look up to Jamie, Lilley says. I think they would. Even though shes awful and fake, teens want her kind of power. Having attended Sydney private schools himself, Lilley can attest. I knew a lot of Jamies. My sister was kind of a Jamie. And those girls will say and do outrageous things to be leaders. Outrageous, yes, but also fascinatingand funny. So funny that the lexicon of generations X through Z is rife with mean-girl oneliners, and animated GIFs of Jamie and her predecessors the Kelly Taylors, Blair Waldorfs, and Regina Georgesshow up in, like, every other BuzzFeed post. And though we may feel guilty laughing as they ridicule others, theres also a twisted catharsis in seeing the mean girl say what we would never. Plus, rooted in her narrative is her undoing, so whether by comeuppance (Regina George smeared by

YOU CANT SIT WITH US

Most documentaries about the American musical are dull or silly, lacking either the verve of live performance or a subject deserving of deep investigation. So Six by Sondheim, airing this month on HBO, did not have to leap far to be the best documentary ever made on the art form. It would have been enough just to explore, as it does, the life of the great composer and lyricist Stephen Sondheim through six of the hundreds of songs he has writtenworks that for more than 50 years have defined what serious musical theater can be. But what really makes Six by Sondheim so extraordinary is that director James Lapine and executive producer Frank Rich did not have to resort to the usual talking heads. Astonishing archival video of Sondheimstarting with a college musical he wrote, moving on to West Side Story in 1957, through the period of his touchstone works (Company, Follies, A Little Night Music, Sweeney Todd, Sunday in the Park With George), and all the way to the presentallows him to speak, always passionately and wryly, for himself. You get both his awful biography (his mother found him an inconvenience) and his practical philosophy (the only reason to write is from love) and, in between, great moments from the shows themselves. True, the focus on the six songs of the title is a bit hit-or-miss: The original footage of some (especially Being Alive, sung for the Company cast recording by Dean Jones) shames others that have been customized for this film. (Why is Audra McDonald crooning Send in the Clowns in a lighting warehouse?) But thats a quibble, and, later, having Sondheim himself play a crass producer crushing the dreams of three mini Sondheims (Darren Criss, Jeremy Jordan, and America Ferrera) in the autobiographical Opening Doors (Ill let you know when Stravinsky has a hit) is more than sufficient compensation. For all the pain behind so much of the material, the result is joyfulor, as Sondheim, still vigorous at 83, describes the process of writing itself, agonizing fun. the school bus in Mean Girls) or edification (Glees Santana gaining insight through her own struggles), the bitch is always destined to fall. When she does, she takes our id down with her, confirming our need to believe that good eventually wins out. The problem, though, is if she doesnt fail. Jamie makes us grind our teeth not only because, as a mean girl in a lead role, her mockery is exhausting. But also, like Larry David and Louis CK, no matter how much of an incendiary device she is, she always gets away with it. However, unlike her male counterparts (and, really, most other mean girls), Jamie exhibits hardly any humanity. Thus, we wonder what part of her were actually clinging to. Jamie is overdue to crash and burn, Lilley says. If youre evolving that quickly and trying to manipulate everything, especially the way she is, its impossible to maintain. Thats comforting. Because after all, if our purgative scapegoats stop hitting the skids, whos really in danger of spinning out?Seth Plattner

212 INTEL TV/Theater

16-year-olds birthday party. Im sure the mums thought I was a total creep. WorldMags.net Read more of our Q&A with Lilley at ELLE.com/chrislilley.

How else did Chris Lilley research Jamie: Private School Girl? I went to a

Jamie: Private School Girl : Ben Timony; Pretty Little Liars : Mathieu Young/ABC Family via Getty Images; Beverly Hills 90210 : Aaron Spelling Productions/courtesy of the Everett Collection; Mean Girls : Paramount/courtesy of the Everett Collection; Glee : FOX/The Kobal Collection; Nashville : Walk & Chew Gum/The Kobal Collection; Sondheim: Don Perdue/Getty Images

HBOs refreshing documentary Six by Sondheim gets to the heart of musical theaters greatest living legend. By Jesse Green

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WorldMags.net

An inspired investigation into the utopian spirit of the Chelsea Hotel


By Lisa Shea

WorldMags.net BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY


[HISTORY]

[STORIES]

JOYRIDES
By Catherine Straut

Women and trouble


The idle time sparked a curiosity they had never felt before; it was as though they had each swallowed an ember and now it sat simmering in their

stomachs, writes Laura van den Berg, describing the genesis of a group of Van den Berg teenage bankrobbers in Lessons, one of the seven tales in The Isle of Youth (Farrar, Straus and Giroux), her second story

the reader feeling just as ambivalent and thrilled as do the characters themselves. I marveled at all that could be gotten away with in the dark, says one woman who unexpectedly befriends a troupe of acrobats after she is left by her husband on the trip to Paris that was supposed to save their marriage. Someones life could fall apartor together without anyone noticing a thing. Van den Berg gracefully captures such unseen moments of triumph and failure as lives are derailedand discoveredin her stories.

to his soon-to-be first wife, the writer Lydia Davis; and film stills and photos of objects and places dear to this elegantminded, ever-seeking author. MALE TALES The Book of Men (Picador), curated by Colum McCann and the editors of Esquire and the nonprofit Narrative 4, features short fiction by 80 writers about the complexities, conundrums, failings, wonders, and inescapable humanness of manhood; contributors range from Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie and Gabriel Byrne to Khaled Hosseini and Mona Simpson.L.S.

214 INTEL Books

To see this months readers comments, go to ELLE.com/readersprize. Want to become a Readers Prize juror? E-mail us at eagerreader@hearst.com.

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Tippins: Deborah Lopez; Van den Berg: Peter Yoon; still lifes: Philip Friedman/Studio D

Literary historian Sherill Tippins Inside the Dream Palace (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) is a dynamic portrait of New York Citys fabled Chelsea Hotel, established in 1884 by French architect Philip Hubert as an idealistic, communalist-inspired apartment cooperative that later morphed into a celebrated and mystery-laden residential hotel. Standing at what was once the business and cultural crossroads of Manhattan on West 23rd Street close to 7th Avenue, the 12-story neo-Gothic red brick pile drew generations of artists, oddballs, visionaries, and renegadesincluding Tennessee Williams, Virgil Thomson, Brendan Behan, Edgar Lee Masters, William S. Burroughs, Janis Joplin, Leonard Cohen, Patti Smith, and Sam Shepard. Customized apartments ranging from studios to duplexes were graced with meticulously crafted stainedglass transoms, white marble fireplaces, Moorish mosaics, Hudson River School paintings, comic gargoyles, and sunflower tracery on wrought-iron balconies. Tippins anecdote-rich history takes us through successive eras in which the hotels denizens helped define the citys creative zeitgeist. Novelist Thomas Wolfe paced from room to room feverishly dictating scenes to his secretary for his longaborning masterpiece, You Cant Go Home Again; inebriated abstract expressionist wunderkind Jackson Pollock threw up on the dining-room carpet while his patron Peggy Guggenheim was presenting him to her wealthy socialite friends; playwright Arthur Miller hid from the drama surrounding his marriage to and divorce from Marilyn Monroe; Bob Dylan tuned in to the ghosts of Depression-era artists who had lived there before him; and, of course, Nancy Spungen was murdered by the Sex Pistols Sid Vicious, her boyfriend. Recently the hotel was sold, gutted, and reduced from some 300 to 80 households. The fate of the hotel, an integral part of downtown NYCs aesthetic Tippins fabric for more than 100 years, is now uncertain.

collection. Curiositysprung from idleness, neglect, or betrayalis a force to be reckoned with in these delicately layered narratives linked by themes of mystery and survival. Each introduces us to a wayward young woman seeking respite from her marginalized life. From the newlywed who finds herself already estranged from her husband after their honeymoon flight goes awry, to the two sisters who make a living as illegal private investigators as they ache from their fathers disappearance, each woman struggles to reconcile her circumstances with her dreams. Van den Berg is seemingly incapable of melodramaher wry, resigned humor often leaves g

[BOOKS]

TRUST US
POISON IVY The fates of a married professor and a brilliant, fetching student collide in Robert Stones Death of the Black-Haired Girl (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), set at a prestigious New England college and electrifyingly conjured: Cheerless dawn lit the pinnacles and tracery of the Gothic towers across the Common. One by one, southeast to northwest, the trunks of the elms along the walks lightened to gray. All at once, the street lamps died together. GOING DEEP Report From the Interior (Henry Holt), Paul Auster s latest autobiographical work, has four sections: a tender evocation of his boyhood; a critical look at two classic films that powerfully influenced him; some earnest letters he wrote as a young man

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[ILLUSTRATED BOOKS]

The best and most distinctive illustrated books of the season richly convey genius of place and of personality
2. ART & PLACE (PHAIDON) This highly chromatic and eclectic visual compendium of sitespecific art of the Americas, from pre-Columbian to present day and from Canada to Chile (below: the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi in Belo Horizonte, Brazil), showcases virtually every form of artistic endeavor imaginable.

FACES & SPACES

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1. INVISIBLE EVE (RIZZOLI) Photographer Yousef Khanfars lambent, unretouched black-and-white portraits of women in Oklahomas prisons (the state has the worlds highest per capita rate of female incarceration), along with a few thoughts from each subject, eloquently testify to the human cost of their misadventuresnot least to their children.

4. THE LAST OCEAN (RIZZOLI) Antarcticas Ross Sea teems with penguins, seals, whales, and Seussian deep-sea creatures who live at the edge of that austerely majestic continenta world captured in the hallucinatory photos of John Weller, who has devoted himself to saving this last unspoiled ocean from exploitation.

5. SOUL TRAIN (HARPER DESIGN) The Roots raconteur, Ahmir Questlove Thompson, pored over some 1,100 episodes of the seminal TV show (including one featuring Parliament Funkadelic in 1981, right) to conjure this riotously colorful, 70s-styled homage, with his own personalized, deeply informed narrative providing accompaniment.

216 INTEL Books

Visit ELLE.com for slide shows of the best photos from these booksand dont miss our interview with Questlove at ELLE.com/questlove.

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Philip Friedman/Studio D

3. CAUGHT IN THE ACT (GLITTERATI) Photographer Howard Schatz persuaded 85 actors to sit and, with astonishingly vivid results, method act (or just ham) their way through an off-the-wall array of dramatic situations while he snapped away. Chlo Sevigny obliges above.

[BOOKS OF THE YEAR]

The 180 ELLEs Lettres 2013 Readers Prize jurors have chosen their two favorites from among the years monthly winners

GRAND PRIX

THE ELLES WorldMags.net LETTRES 2014


(NONFICTION)

READERS PRIZE
among three promising new

TM

15 ELLE readers choose their favorite booksthis month, about food, people, and culture

NONFICTION: REBECCA DANA, JUJITSU RABBI AND THE GODLESS BLONDE ( y Einhorn Books/Putnam) (Amy Its impressive that Danas book (narrowly) won the nod this year over novelist Richard Russos admired memoir, Elsewhere, about his childhood with a troubled mother. Its also impressive that a personal story with one foot well out of the American mainstream in Brooklyns ultra-Orthodox Hasidic Jewish communityattracted and held the attention of readers from all over America. Thats where this Pittsburgh native ended up, apartment sharing with a Russian-migr rabbi, when her happy, shiny Manhattan coupledom and media-industry career went off the rails. Rebecca Danas account of her personal growth following the demise of a romance and her roommate Cosmos growth as he questions his faith is a fascinating story of two people trying to find their true selves in a world where their communities expectations have shaped the direction they have pursued. Dana Deidra MacLeod, Natick, MA FICTION: TRACY CHEVALIER, THE LAST RUNAWAY (Dutton) Chevalier (Girl With a Pearl Earring) is a perennial ELLE favorite, so it comes as no huge surprise that her most recent historical adventure outbid works by the likes of Karen Joy Fowler, Emma Donoghue, and Curtis Sittenfeld for our readers affections. Chevaliers first novel set in America traces the winding path by which Honor Bright, an English Quaker lass, finds herself alone in 1850s Ohio and becomes entangled in helping the Underground Railroad spirit slaves out of the South on the eve of the Civil War. The Last Runaway makes the Underground Railroad a reality for the reader and also raises interesting questions about the principles people say they have and what they are willing to do to uphold them. Betsy Denson, Houston I enjoyed how the author uses realistic marriage scenarios instead of the trite romantic subplots that one is conditioned to expect with a young female protagonist. Chevaliers novel is fresh and unpredictable. Chevalier Rose Phillips, Columbus, OH
Find more 2013 jurors comments at ELLE.com/grandprix and, for this months books, at ELLE.com/readersprize.

1. MASTERING THE ART OF FRENCH EATING ANN MAH (PAMELA DORMAN BOOKS/ VIKING) Mah moved to Paris with her diplomat husband, but when he headed off for an extended hitch in Iraq, she worriedly headed off for an extended tour of Frances regional cuisines and wines. Most of our readers were enraptured by her luscious and detailed descriptions of the meals that became the rich medium for a lonely wifes tentative socializing in a strange land. 2. ANYTHING THAT MOVES DANA GOODYEAR (RIVERHEAD) The consensus was that Goodyears enterprising and energetic reportage about extreme eating around the country was addictive, educational, and gross, going well beyond your standard organ meats into fare such as edible insects and live seafood. Some had the stomach for it; others did not. 3. MASTERING THE ART OF SOVIET COOKING ANYA VON BREMZEN (CROWN) This awardwinning food writers book is a sweeping memoir about three generations of her family, built around musings on the role of food in Russian and Soviet life over the past two centuries. Readers who invested their interest in this cultural narrativeand not all of them didwere rewarded with a complexly flavored portrait of what it feels like to be nostalgic for the often-crummy, all-toofrequently-scarce fare from the country that the authors family left for the West in the 1970s.

Holidays Can Be Stressful

Dana: Terry Gruber; Chevalier: Eamonn McCabe, 2012; still lifes: Philip Friedman/Studio D

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INTEL Books

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[BOOKS]

JONG-IAN THEORY

On the fortieth anniversary of her classic novel of female comingof-age, Fear of Flying, Erica Jong dings Martin Amis and Arianna Huffington, celebrates living life as a lusty human being, and talks about believing in her own talent. By E. Jean Carroll

My dog and I left Ennis, Montana, my home for 20 years, at midnight, September 30, 1982, and drove like banshees to New York City, where we rented an apartment for $400 a month. The highlight of this abodeaside from the wonderful fact that it was located beneath a family of gypsieswas that it possessed dirt floors where my dog, a cattle dog of exceptional beauty (she possessed the face of Diane Keaton) could bury her bones in the living room. Having then unpacked, and donning a pair of banana-colored cowgirl boots, mistress and dog set forth on their first New York adventure. Wed just turned up 44th Street whenwe spotted our first New York celebrity! She was a heroine! A witch! A genius! A destroyer of civilization! A castrator! A siren! A blond! She was a woman of such fame and wit, of such wicked literary prowess, that a spotlight

Fear of Flying has been published in 40 languages, among them Turkish, Bulgarian, Chinese, Polish, and Hebrew.

seemed to be shining upon her, pouring and spilling down around her like honey as she walked toward us. Was I mistaken? Or did her electric blue eyes twinkle a spark at me? What the hellI raised my hand and gave her the Girl Scout salute.

We just saw Erica Jong! I cried, before spinning around to watch the spotlight roll away. Youve got A Vindication of the Rights of Woman, by Mary Wollstonecraft, published in 1792; A Room of Ones Own, by Virginia Woolf

(1929); The Second Sex, by Simone de Beauvoir (1949); The Golden Notebook, by Doris Lessing (1962); and The Feminine Mystique, by Betty Friedan (1963). These books gave women ideas. The book that gave men ideas? Fear of Flying, by Erica Jong, published in 1973. I was at a party (back in Montana) a few months after Jong had thundered onto the literary scene with her zipless fuck (a pure one-night stand, no strings attached at all), her terrifying language (nice girls didnt talk like that), and her delicious heroine, Isadora Wingwho travels to Vienna for an analytic conference with her repressed and depressed (but decent) psychiatrist husband and has to choose between him and a wild, woolly, and

218 INTEL Culture Watch

is free of ulterior motives. There is no power game. The man is not WorldMags.net taking and the woman is not giving. Fear of Flying

Official definition of the zipless fuck: [It] is absolutely pure. It

Courtesy of Jong

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Jong

far less predictable shrink named, for real, Adrian Goodlove. In short, Isadora, who, like Jong herself, is the daughter of a secular Jewish New York artist mother and a businessman father, has to choose between safety and adventure. Anyway, Fear of Flying was all anyone could talk about at the party, and I recall a young doctor saying to his creamy girlfriend, who was nursing a baby not his, as it later turned outon the couch, which had about 15 other people on it: But you dont think about sex and running off, like this Jong girldo you? The girlfriend looked up at him, raised her eyebrows gaily, and said: All the time. And, of course, while Fear of Flying clued men in to the fact that the opposite sex could dig sex just as much as or more than they did, it gave women ideas too. Or at least underlined what we were beginning to know but were afraid to say out loud. Because, as Isadora hilariously hems and hawsand sleeps with her lover, her husband, and, once, bothshe sorts through her love-hate relationship with her mother, meditates

on German history and Jewishness, makes some jawdroppingly racist comments, and comes to terms with the signal importance of work in her life. (Her work is writing; Fear of Flying is quite autobiographical, in case you hadnt guessed.) It was a modern female comingof-age tale, as gloriously written and trenchant as Philip Roths then recently published Portnoys Complaint. So the question is always: Why arent books like Fear of Flying being written today? Or, as ELLE editor Laurie Abraham puts it: Where are the bawdy, frankly sexual books that are also literary fiction with particular, fleshed-out characters and riffs on big ideas about the influence of culture on an individual life, about the struggle to be true to oneself and an ethical actor in the world? Bah! Miss Laurie! Genius is unique. You may as well ask wheres the new Jane Austen. With 27 million copies sold worldwide, Fear of Flying is celebrating its fortieth anniversary this month, and what happier excuse is there for Miss Laurie and I to call upon Miss Erica at her Manhattan apartment? Dear reader, can I tell you that you never saw so many platters of scones, bagels, muffins, exotic buns, fluffy butters, jams, berries, melons, peeled fruits, cheesesI felt like I was at Pemberley visiting Elizabeth and Darcy at teatime. That is, until Erica, who has enjoyed four husbands, and who knows

how to entertain, opened the kitchen door, andboom! Simone and Colette, her two standard poodles, bounded into the dining room and began making out with us. And now, picture Miss Erica looking extremely fit in sapphire blue, with a jeweled asp clasped round her neck, like Cleopatra. Picture Miss Laurie, charming in a sleek beige sheath, being knocked backward almost off her chair in a poignant embrace with Colette. Picture Doris Lessing. Im going to copy the Lessing method of shuffling and numbering ideas as we turn on the tape recorder and capture Miss Ericas thoughts. Shall we begin with the birth of her daughter, the novelist Molly Jong-Fast? 1. Youd never get knocked up if you knew how much pain birth can be. I remember when Molly was born: After nine hours of labor, my doctor says, Im concerned about the babys heartbeat. Were going to the OR and doing a C-section. I screamed at the doctor: David! Im writing the best book of my life! Dont let me die! [The book was Fanny: Being the True History of the Adventures of Fanny HackaboutJones.] Were going up to the OR in the elevator and it stalls! So I say: Wheres the technician! Weve got to get out of here! And I see this green leg coming through the trapdoor at the top of the elevator, and he says: Dont worry, little lady, well get it fixed. They wheel me into the OR, give me an epidural, I can vaguely feel the cutting, Jonathan [Fast,

her third husband] is taking picturesso annoying! They hold up the baby, covered with blood, and I say: Is that the placenta? Can you believe it? They put the baby next to me, and I see this little face covered with dried blood. I remember what I said: Welcome, little stranger. I dont think I was ever happier in my life than the day after she was born. 2. I forget a lot of things. Like Ill forget that I said yes to a party. 3. I very much wanted to live life as a lusty human being. I didnt want to be like Jane Austen, hiding the manuscript under the embroidery hoop, never having a man. When I was growing up as a writer, Sylvia Plath committed suicide. What a waste! She would have gotten over Ted Hughes! She was only 30! 4. I have lots of sports injuries. I was thrown from a horse in Texas. I shattered my tibia on an icy slope in Austria. I was crazy. 5. After the legal battles made it possible to publish [banned books such as Lady Chatterleys Lover and Lolita] I remember reading Couples, by John Updike, and Portnoys

WorldMags.net 220 INTEL Culture Watch

Want even more of Erica Jongs insightful and hilarious commentary? Go to ELLE.com/ericajong for more from her conversation with E. Jean.

Courtesy of Jong

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Complaint and saying: Okay, we have a right to do this, but whos writing it from a womans point of view? And then I said: Me! 6. Resentment is the enemy of sex. 7. There was a poet. Wed been writing these incredible erotic letters to each other. He was a poet and a novelist, and British. And when Im staying at the Ritz in Piccadilly, I meet him in the bar, and he starts talking about how he hates Jews. This was not in any of the letters. 8. I never said it was Ted Hughes! Ted Hughes was such a slut. He wanted to sleep with everybody. He was such a flirt. And he looked like a warlock. He looked like an animal. He was very sexy. 9. So back to the writer at the Ritz: He comes into the room brandishing a condom. We fucked. Without any feeling. I thought if we fucked, I could get him to leave. I ordered breakfast, and he ate very hungrily. You know what I didnt like? How low and scuzzy he was. You know the cheap wine in the pub? He ordered that, and then came to my room and ordered the good wine and charged it to my publisher. Honestly, I shouldve said: Get out of my room, you antiSemitic prick. But I didnt. 10. This is the way I mothered Molly: [Smiling tenderly as Simone lifts Miss Lauries skirt, looking for a crumpet.] Absolutely no rules.
Courtesy of Jong

11. Forty is the female peak. But it never ends. I had a guy here yesterday helping me hang the art. And hes wearing two earrings and has a shaved head, and I think: Hes gay. I always assume everybody in New York is gay. And hes hanging the paintings and starts talking about his girlfriend, and I realize hes not gay, and Im looking at him and Im thinking [ plucking a grape and examining it], I could do this, I could do this guy. My husband wouldnt mind. Ken likes my sexuality. As long as he doesnt know. He wouldnt mind. And Im having these fantasies, and Im thinking, Okay. Where are we gonna go? Are we gonna go to Hells Kitchen? To his dump? And then I think, Oh, come on, it will be a disappointment. And then I think, At least Im still thinking about it. 12. Ninety-five percent of motherhood is shutting up. 13. Ive raised hackles. Paul Theroux called me a mammoth pudenda. [(Actually, he called Isadora that, but why quibble?)] Martin Amis told me I had no talent. Poor, short Martin Amis who once fucked [bleep]. He didnt like that women were defining themselves. They got really upset by Fear of Flying in Britain. The female sex was their subject. 14. Mario Vargas Llosa. Him, I would do.

15. Marriage can give you a maison saine. Marriage can give you a place, crops to raise, children, but can it give you excitement? Not all the time. Or not even. If youre getting in bed with a person saying: Did you fill up the tank? Did you call the window-blinds man? Thats not romantic. And thats what most of our marital conversation is about. 16. You cant sell a book nowadays unless you have a reality show. 17. Blogging? Its stupid to write for no money. Its setting a precedent. I say this as past president of the Authors Guild. Writing should be a profession. You cant give it away. I blogged for Arianna [Huffingtons The Huffington Post] for three years. I thought she was going to take care of us when she sold out. I must have been insane. In London, Arianna is called the most upwardly mobile Greek since Icarus. Tina [Brown, founder of The Daily Beast] is brilliant. Arianna is venal. But so cute that you cant resist her. Arianna sold out for $300 million, and she didnt pay anybody. I said to her: How can you not pay writers? You are a writer. You know what she said to me? She said: Its a platform. 18. But there are many people who dont read books. Ill get an e-mail from somebody: Dear Erica Jong. I love your quotes.

19. Im finishing my latest novel, Fear of Dying. Its about an actress in her sixties whos outgrown all the parts, but shes still beautiful and still sexual. Shes married to a much, much older man, who nearly dies. He cant get an erection because hes on all these meds. Her mothers dying, her fathers dying, her dog is dying, her friends are getting cancerand its very funny. And she decides that, in the middle of all this death, she needs a burst of life force. So she puts an ad on the Internet on a site called Zipless, which has been stolen from her old friend Isadora Wing, who makes a cameo in the book: Happily married woman with extra erotic energy desires happily married man for one afternoon. [The last glass of wine has been raised, and as Miss Erica accompanies us to the elevator, we pass a giant crate in the hallway, which prompts one more Jongian gem.] 20. I said to my cute arthanger: I could make it in an orgone box. And he said, Whats an orgone box? I said, You get in it and you communicate with the different energies. Or you scream. I cant remember which. Its Wilhelm Reich. Its not the sensory deprivation tank you float in. Ive done everything. Ive also had a succession of water beds in my day.

Though John Updike was an enthusiastic fan of Fear of Flying, his explanation for Isadoras brio and irrepressible sense of fun is priceless (or perhaps just hopelessly dated): She had an orgasm every time she had sex.

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NIGHT VISION
Mikael Schulz

The prettiestand easiestparty looks are smoky and smudgy and more than a little messy
For a new take on Friday-night lights, makeup artist Zoe Taylor blended YSL eye pencils in Smoky Purple and Amber Brown into this delicious rusty amber-maroon, then pressed on YSL Rouge Pur Couture lipstick in Beige Tribute for a kissed-off finisha union thats perfectly unpolished.

THIS MONTH IN BEAUTY The makeup-brush backlash page 232 // The art (and fashion) worlds favorite derm page 238 // Glowing skin secrets from the UK page 246

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Taylor used Waterproof Eye Pencil in Black Ink and Pure Chromatics Collector palette in Arctic Night on eyes and Rebel Nude Glossy Stain in Nude Provocateur on lips, all by YSL.

WorldMags.net 228 BEAUTY Inspiration

Evening eyes arent complete without black liner. Find a formula thats right for you at ELLE.com/blackeyeliner.

Mikael Schulz

Save your glitter for spring: Although sparkle was all over (literally) the recent NYC runway shows, our go-to party makeup this season is soft, subtle, and supersexy. For this shoot, makeup artist Zoe TaylorKeira Knightley and Victoria Beckhams smoky-eye expertdrew inspiration from last nights makeup, slept in, then worn with pride. Taylor worked black kohl eyeliner into the top and bottom inner and outer lash lines and used it to fill in the entire lid, then applied prismatic navy eye shadow with a wet brush, blending it out. A dab of clear gloss on top gives the eye a real oil-slick look, Taylor says. Precision isnt the goal, so dont bother checking undereyes for straying pigment: The more smudge, the better! And for lip color that wears down perfectly, she pressed on a sheer beige-nude stain. The ultimate complement to Taylors soft-focus aesthetic: hairstylist Ali Pirzadehs undone, airy halo. Build texture by running a volumizing mousse through lengths and hitting roots with a lifting spray, then blow-dry upside down, Pirzadeh advises. Bend ends into a subtle wave with a large curling iron, brush through, and give roots final oomph with hairspray. The best part? The longer you wear it, the better it looks.ELYSE MOODY

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Kemp is wearing New VolumExpress The Falsies Big Eyes Mascara in Very Black. Lashes styled with lash inserts. 2013 Maybelline LLC.

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I love how Aubreys avant-garde updo complements the geometric dress Im wearing.
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Aubrey shows Meghan how smoothing a dab of Wella Smooth Brilliance Shine Pomade can tame flyaways on the go.

I held Meghans intricate updo with Wella Professionals Stay Firm Finishing Spray for a flawless, finished style.
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Styling is an art form, and theres no better canvas than a head of beautiful hair. Here, LA-based Wella Top Artist Aubrey Loots creates a sophisticated, multi-layered updo for Suits TV star Meghan Markle.

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THE BRUSH-OFF
In the age of precise, tutorial-taught beauty, fingers have become our most underutilized makeup tool. Celia Ellenberg goes freehand
Six years ago, a Florida college freshman named Michelle Phan opened up a MacBook Pro, on loan from her school, and uploaded to YouTube a video of herself putting on makeup. She called the clip, which was edited down to about seven minutes with overdubbed audio, Makeup Tutorial: A Natural Approach. The lessonwhich included tips on applying concealer, foundation, liquid eyeliner, mascara, blush, lipstick, and lip glosswent viral, generating

40,000 hits in one week; today, the total number stands at just over 10 million. One of the most striking constants in Phans now 270-clip beauty-video library is her reliance on makeup brushes to distribute concise, concentrated doses of pigment. This technique has also become the hallmark of YouTube beauty gurus such as Kandee Johnson, From Head To Toe, and Blair Fowler, whose recent post titled Everyday Fall Makeup included 23 steps and 11 different brushes. Even Kim Kardashians video tutorial on her trademark lavish eye look, which she affectionately refers to as The Kimmel, includes 12 steps and nine brushes. By bringing to the masses advanced tricks once only attempted by the pros, videos such as these have ushered in a new era of makeup complexity: Why do something with three easy pieces (or with the no-frills eye shadow applicator thats included in any palette) when you can use a whole arsenal? Part of the appeal of a brush-happy application is its ability to obliterate any perceived flaw, rewriting features rather than just subtly enhancing them. I do think this tool movement bred a lot more confidence, says makeup-loving actor Drew Barrymore, creator of Flower, the extensive cosmetics collection launched in collaboration with Walmart earlier this year. You know exactly what to do with your face and how to achieve it. Thats kind of cool. The end result, however, can be decidedly less so: If the application is too heavy and precise, a look created with brushes can come off as dated, not to mention the opposite of high fashion, which has long favored a more undone look (see Wang, Alexander and McCartney, Stella). Fingers are better for doing raw, fresh beauty, says Diane Kendal, the makeup artist who created the supernatural glow for the spring 2014 Proenza Schouler show (which starred 90s supes Kirsty Hume and Georgina Grenville). Lived-in is the way Gucci Westman describes the specific, Kate Mossesque finish shes after when she uses her fingers to dab on eye shadow, blush, and lipstick: a casually pretty look the Revlon global artistic director has made a mainstay backstage at Rag & Bone. Inspired by her own beauty education, Barrymore designed much of her line, including her new Eye Chubbies, to be applied with your fingers. The makeup artists I worked with when I was a teenager all used their hands. And I loved it. They would smear base makeup on a plate and mush it all together

WorldMags.net 232 BEAUTY Obsession

For an exclusive hands-on makeup tutorial with Drew Barrymore, visit ELLE.com/drewbarrymoretutorial.

Alexander Straulino/Trunk Archive

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Peruse the holiday wish list of LA-based rising star Ahna OReilly (The Help, Fruitvale Station, CBGB). See what this beguilingly stylish young actress is coveting this season, and what shes hoping to give (and get).

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Modern yet feminine, Im loving this Georgia Mini Three Hand Stainless Steel Watch from FOSSIL (fossil.com).

HOLIDAY DESTINATION:
My two sisters and I are thinking Marfa, Texas or Harbin Hot Springs, CA, where our parents met.

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VISIT ELLE.COM/INFLUENTIALS TO SHOP AHNAS PICKS FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON.

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DREAM GIFT: To me, experiences are the best gifts Ive always wanted to visit Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Im coveting a John Cassavetes box set and books by my favorite authors: Nabokov, Roth, and Paula Young Lee.

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Westman, backstage at the Assembly spring 2014 show

and then pat it all over your face, and youd have the most beautiful skin youd ever had in your life, she says. I feel like I trust myself more than I trust the brush. For most pros, the appeal of fingerpainting isnt just that it results in a less contrived look than does the ultraperfect paint-by-numbers approach, its also more playful, and more tactile. I like when pigments, creams, and powder shadows melt into the skin, says Pat McGrath, P&Gs multitalented global creative design director. Theres nothing better than mixing your foundation with moisturizer in the palm of your hand and then applying it to your face with your fingers like you would a cream, then tapping a bit more moisturizer on the cheekbones. It makes the skin look really alive. Shiseido artistic director Dick Page relies on the power of touch to help with portion control. Everyone always overdoses on concealer, so Im constantly doing this, Page says, swiping his fingers across his cheekbones in illustration. As you touch the face, you remember there are bones there, there is fleshits 3-D. Through touch, a makeup artist can connect to the canvas he or she is working on, and use it as a guide for where to apply product. Though there are some makeup aficionados who fall passionately in either the brush or finger camp, most alternate between the two approaches depending upon the technical requirements of the textures with which theyre working: As a general rule of thumb, powders need brushes, and creams are good with fingers, Giorgio Armani Beautys international makeup artist Linda Cantello says, explaining that the heat in your fingers can melt creams, making them

easier to press seamlessly into the skin I love to use my fingers when applying concealers, foundations, and so on, as I just feel the warmth of my fingers seems to help the product blend easier, she says. Cl de Peau Beaut color creator Lucia Pieroni, who is a favorite among designers such as Rochas Marco Zanini and Vera Wang for an approach that favors understatement rather than overthe-top theatrics, uses her digits almost exclusively. For lips, I use my thumb, or I do that, she says, mimicking the motion of pressing pigment into pouts with her index finger. The ring finger does a lot of things too, she says, reasoning that its position on the hand and the size of its tip makes it an excellent tool for blending shadow and smudging liner on the upper eyelids; she reserves her pinky finger for lower lids. And as for ensuring the longevity of creams that are swept onto the skin with fingers, Pieroni is against setting them with powder. You defeat the object if you apply powder, she says (the object being a certain level of welcome unfussiness). The only powder Id do would be here, she says, motioning between her brows, or here, just for shine, she adds, sliding her finger down the length of her nose. For McGrath, finger-painting is a much more effortless and modern approach to makeup. At Miu Mius spring 2014 show, for example, she dabbed pastel-colored cream eye shadow onto models lids, intentionally applying it unevenly. We wanted it to be slightly faded in the center, not perfect. It gives it a more lived-in look. It wasnt about, Lets make the most perfectly shaded eye socket. Thats great for an Instagram of one eye, but no one wants to live like that.

Using your fingers and following your instinctsas opposed to using brushes and following a diagram or videoresults in a makeup look thats more true says McGrath. Women are expected to be perfect at so many things, and then theyre sitting at home at night trying to learn how to do a 20-point eye on YouTube? No one should feel pressured to be so skilled. The sexiest makeup is a bit worn off. The sexiest makeup is when its about self-expression. When you do you.

WorldMags.net 236 BEAUTY Obsession

Some of the first known finger painters used Frances Rouffignac cave as their canvas at least 13,000 years ago.

From left: Amanda Schwab/StarPix; Devon Jarvis/Studio D (4)

Clockwise from top left: FLOWER Win Some, Rouge Some Crme Blush in Pure Petunia; the 12-shade MAKE UP FOR EVER Flash Color Palette; FLOWER Eyes on the Prize Eyeshadow Chubby in Keep Your Pansies On! and Daffodil-with It; SHISEIDO Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Purple Dawn, Tin, Ice, and Caviar; MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Eye Studio Color Tattoo Metal 24HR Cream-Gel Shadow in Silver Strike; LANCME Color Design Infinit 24h Eyeshadow in Tremendous Turquoise

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Teeth So White, You Cant Stop Checking.

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VISION QUEST
For dermatologist Fredric Brandt, MD who has an eye for museum-worthy masterpiecesevery face is a work of art. By April Long
The first thing you see upon entering the pristine white offices of Dr. Brandt Dermatology Associates in Manhattan is a large Damien Hirst polka-dot painting. And thats only the beginning: Between tending to the complexions of his devoted celebrity clientele (Madonna, Gwyneth, Kelly Ripa), expanding his 12-yearold skin-care line, and conducting groundbreaking dermatological studies, Fredric Brandt, MD, has also been quietly amassing a collection of modern art that would make MoMA weep. I started about 25 years ago, Brandt says. My first purchases were lithographs, because thats all I could afford at the time. Now I have about 300 works of art. I hate to feel like Im neglecting anyone. Among those treasures which Brandt displays in his Chelsea artdistrict apartment and his ultramodern home in Miami, as well as in his derm practices in both citiesare works by Keith Haring, John Baldessari, Anish Kapoor, and current Guggenheimretrospective subject Christopher Wool. Brandt dispenses collecting advice with the same enthusiasm with which he gives skincare tips on his SiriusXM radio show and Twitter feed (@drfredricbrandt): Buy what you love, but

also look at the artists place in art history. Its like any investmentyou want to be sure that youre making a wise decision. How does your appreciation of modern art play into your work? It all has to do with being very visual, and having an eye for detail and form. Its not just about making sure that something is done correctly and scientifically; its about understanding how its going to look. What new procedures are you excited about? Were doing a lot of Ulthera treatments for tightening, and now we have a new handpiece where the energy doesnt penetrate as deeply, so were doing a study using it on upper-lip lines. That will be interesting, because Ulthera requires no downtime, compared with a laser, which might need a week of recovery. Were also starting a study on Redensity, which is a very low cross-linked hyaluronic-acid filler from Europe that can be used with a mesotherapy gun. Whats the benefit of

Clockwise from top: SUN BUM Moisturizing Sunscreen Lotion SPF 70 is an invisible shield; MOLTON BROWN Black Peppercorn Nourishing Body Lotion is Brandts at-home favorite: Its soothing, and absorbs well into the skin; ACZONE is an adult acne prescription thats not only antibacterial but also anti-inflammatory; DAVID KIRSCH WELLNESS CO B-12 Spray provides a quick pick-me-up: You spray it into your mouthit goes directly into the bloodstream, making you feel more energetic; DR. BRANDT Do Not Age Time Reversing Cream and Transforming Pearl Serum work together to jump-start the skins metabolism; prescription ATRALIN is a nice retinoid in gel form, so its great for people with oily or combination skin. Its not too thick, and the irritation level is low.

WorldMags.net 238 BEAUTY Insider

Portrait: Michael Stavaridis; still lifes, from top: Devon Jarvis/Studio D (4); Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D (3)

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TINSLEY MORTIMER & JESSE JOHNSON MAYBELLINE NEW YORK MAKEUP, BACKSTAGE

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Kicking off 2013 New York Fashion Week, ELLE and MAYBELLINE NEW YORK presented FASHION|NEXT, the fourth annual runway show in support of emerging designers. ELLE partnered with School of the Art Institute of Chicago, and our editors curated the best pieces from the students graduating collections to create a runway showcase that embodied the spirit of modern fashion. More than 600 fashion and beauty insiders, friends of ELLE, and industry luminaries attended the event at Lincoln Center, where ELLE and MAYBELLINE NEW YORK awarded two student designers a grant of $25,000 each to help foster their creative vision. PRESENTED BY

CARLIE HOUGEN, ELLE FASHION | NEXT DESIGN AWARD

MAYBELLINE NEW YORK FASHION | NEXT DESIGN AWARD

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FRONT ROW JUDGES CHARLOTTE RONSON, ASHLEY MADEKWE, COCO ROCHA & LOUSE ROE

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DJ CHELSEA LEYLAND

JUDGES TIMO WEILAND, ALAN ECKSTEIN, PAMELA LOVE & SHANE GABIER

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2013 LOral USA, Inc. Simulation of actual product results. Lashes styled with Voluminous ButterflyTM Blackest Black Mascara. Lash inserts were used to fill in natural gaps.

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using a multineedle gun to inject hyaluronic acid? You can deliver small amounts all over the face, the neck, the hands. It will help hydrate the skin and plump it a little bit. Its not so much for contouring, but more for hydration, improving the texture of the skin, and erasing fine lines. The amazing thing is that when you inject with a mesotherapy gun, the patients dont feel anything, and theres no bruising. What else is in the pipeline? Were waiting on a new product to melt the fat in the neck and the jowl area. We finished the trials, and its going to be submitted to the FDA. That will be a new method to rejuvenate the neck. Its going to complete the triad: We have Botox to treat the lines, we have Ulthera to firm, and soon well have this to get rid of the fat. You pioneered the use of Botox. What are new ways to use it? Its becoming more popular to inject Botox in the jaw, or masseter, muscle. Many women grind their teeth, which can cause an overdeveloped jaw over time. When we relax that muscle with Botox, it slims the lower portion of the face, so its a nice way to contour: It makes the cheekbones look more prominent. Were also about to start the phase-three trial for topical Botox, which will enable us to treat lines and wrinkles without injections. Which of your Dr. Brandt skincare products best mimics what you can achieve in the office? I think the new Do Not Age Transforming Pearl Serum takes the things I do in the officelifting, addressing fine lines and wrinkles, and improving texture and luminosityand puts them in a bottle. Its all about preserving the vitality of the cells so that they continue to act young. Weve combined a synthetic ester that protects

WALL POWER: A GLIMPSE WorldMags.net INSIDE BRANDTS COLLECTION


telomeres [the bumpers at the ends of chromosomes that prevent the degradation of genes] with an algae that contains growth factors that stimulate cell respiration. When people call in to your radio show, what do they most want to know? I think the most-asked questions are about the difference between Botox and fillers. People want to understand what goes where, and how to get a good look. And we get a lot of questions about pigmentation: how to prevent it and treat it. I recommend using products with retinol, arbutin, vitamin C, and licorice extract at home, or going to a derm for treatment with Clear + Brilliant Permea, Fraxel 1927, or a Q-Switched laser. What are the easiest and the toughest issues to fix? Volume changes and wrinkles are things we can address quickly, but improving skin is a constant process. Its not just what we do in the office; its a lifestyle thing. I can fill you in or relax your wrinkles, but when it comes to pigmentation, if a patient tells me theyre going to be playing tennis every day or they refuse to wear sunscreen, then theyre never going to get optimal results. In order to improve texture and pigmentation, I require the cooperation of the patient. What are some mistakes that you see other doctors making? One of the most common things is overfilling the undereye area, which makes the eyes look smaller. I also see overtreatment of nasolabial foldscreating too much fullness around the mouth, which gives a monkeyish look. With fillers, the goal is to get the right proportion, so that the face looks harmonious. Its about the whole composition just like a piece of art.

Mark Grotjahn, Untitled, 2011. I also have one of his early landscapes, says Brandt. This painted bronze mask is displayed in the derms Miami home.

Keith Haring, Headstand, 1988. I acquired this in the early 90s. I really love the way its composed, with the figures locking into one another.

Richard Princes My Wife, My Wife (2004) is one of several pieces Brandt owns by the artist. It really appeals to my sense of humor, he says.

WorldMags.net 244 BEAUTY Insider

To view more of the most famous pieces in Brandts Miami home and art collection, visit ELLE.com/drbrandtmiami.

Clockwise from top: Thibaut de Saint Chamas; Mark Grotjahn/Douglas M. Parker Studio; photograph by Patrik Lindqvist, courtesy of McCabe Fine Art; Headstand : Keith Haring Foundation

Brandts Miami bedroom, with Yoshitomo Naras whimsical little girl painting from 2000, Missing in Action, taking pride of place. Behind the bed is a Ricci Albenda; next to it, a Richard Prince cowboy print.

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UNITED FRONT
After years of divided thinking, U.S. dermatologists and UK facialists are meeting in the middle. Julie Schott investigates the best practices from both sidesand how a perfect blend can lead to your most beautiful skin ever
Its the first day of London Fashion Week, but instead of darting about town reporting the latest beauty looks from backstage, Im booked for an interview with legendary British facialist Amanda Lacey. Its a dreadful mess, she says, gesturing to her immaculate Diptyque Figuier candlescented home clinic in the citys posh Chelsea neighborhood. Do you fancy some tea? Scoring an appointment with Lacey is a highly coveted event: She tends to the luminous skin of Gwyneth Paltrow, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and

Erin Wasson, among others. I should be thrilled, but instead Im filled with anxiety: Im fascinated by Laceys skin-care philosophy, yes, but also petrified of letting her touch my face. A few years ago, I had a bad facial. That kicked off a bout of acne, and Ive been on a strict regimen of skin prescriptions ever since antibiotic Clindamycin wipes in the morning, antibiotic-and-retinoid hybrid Ziana gel in the evening, retinoid Atralin as needed, oral antibiotic Minocyline. I could go on. Thing is, I worship at an entirely different skin-care temple than that of Laceys followers: I believe in no-frills, high-octane dermatology. For me, at least, thats what works. But its impossible to ignore my British peers plush, springy skin. Even some of the smokers Ive met in London look more fresh-faced than I do. Whos your dermatologist? I ask an especially youthful-looking DJ friend over drinks a perfectly reasonable query on my side of the pond. A dermatologist? she says, sounding mildly offended. Why would I need one? I have a facialist. Brits and Americans are equally obsessed with the pursuit of an even, smooth, glowing complexion. In fact, its one thing that women everywhere can agree onwe want perfect skin. But theres an essential ideological difference between the two cultures: While Americans have been derm-dependent since the Botox boom of the late 90s, Brits have long subscribed to waiting-list-only, superelite facialists. In the U.S., the big coup is getting an appointment with an MD such as Frederic Brandt, Dennis Gross, or Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas; in England, its getting a regular booking with a skin guru like Amanda Lacey, Sarah Chapman, Nichola Joss, or Eve Lom. It reflects something deeper about the two cultures and our views about beauty in general. British women dont tend to diet like we do. They exercise for health and well-being, but they dont kill themselves on the treadmill. They smoke less these days, but they dont obsess over every cigarette; they dont detox after every drink. And they think were insane to do all of that. Its why Bridget Jones is such a quintessentially British bird. In the UK, you go to a dermatologist when you have a problem, not preventatively, says cosmetic dermatologist Marko Lens, MD, whose office is just off Londons renowned Harley Street. British women want a couple of wrinkles to be seen. Both aging and anti-aging are taken a shade less seriously. Im convinced if a woman is happy, with a reg-

WorldMags.net 246 BEAUTY Obsession

Shop the best in British beauty without ever leaving your couch at ELLE.com/britdrugstorepicks.

Stefan Giftthaler/Thelicensingproject.com

ular sex life, then the skin looks much nicer, Lens says with a suggestive brow raise, himself a glowing testament to this principle, having just returned from a skin-boosting weekend in Mykonos. Still, the Brits are coming around to our way of thinking about skin care, becoming more conversant with dermatologists such as Lens and signing up for lasers, fillers, and Botoxwhile at the same time American cool girls are increasingly eschewing fillers for facials. Even U.S. dermatologists who have traditionally turned up their noses at facialists are beginning to appreciate their point of view. Many top stateside dermsNYC-based David Colbert, MD, and Gervaise Gerstner, MD, among othersnow have aestheticians in their offices, and are incorporating a less invasive philosophy in some of their products and procedures, giving us the best of both worlds. Facialists are great for helping a person read and understand their skin type, Gross says, and theyre also able to spend more time with the patient than the doctor can. The British facialist experience revolves around dual obsessions with cleansing and massagethe two elements of skin care that Im downright lax about. Cleanser is the most important thing, says Lacey, who favors her own gentle oil-based pomade over the type of foaming face washes generally beloved by dermatologists. She warms the balmy blend in her hands so that it will spread easily, then, working up from the dcollet, massages the face in a clockwise motion, stimulating circulation and lymphatic drainage, a technique that visibly reduces puffiness.

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UK facialist and blogger Caroline Hirons swears by a three-cleanser regimen. In an ideal world, everyone should have a natural balm cleanser, a non-foaming milk or gel cleanser, and either a pre-cleanse oil or an eye makeup remover if you wear waterproof eye makeup, she says. The lighter milk or gel is perfect for a quick cleanse in the morning, and the balm is for evening use and massage. To American ears it sounds extreme: Why waste money on cleansers that just get washed away? Renoir didnt paint on the sidewalk, Hirons says. An expensive moisturizer is not going to penetrate your skin if your face is not thoroughly cleansed and prepared. Plus, Hirons approach gets skin clean, but not too clean, unlike a supersudsy sulfate-based face soap that might disrupt the skins protective barrier. For someone like me who torches her face twice daily with potent Rx bombs, a gentle approach could be just what the doctor ordered. In New York City, dermatologist Dennis Gross, MD, is also taking grimeblasting seriously. The latest addition to his product line is an at-home device lifted straight from facialist 101: Steamer Solutions, designed for ultradeep cleaning. Its brilliant for unblocking pores and its incredible for hydration and plumping. People find steam calming, and the relaxation to the facial muscles really makes you look younger, says Gross, who promises that the just-warmenough mist released by his steamer wont cause any of the damage (irritation, dryness, broken capillaries) of the overheated steamers of the past. The beautiful thing is that the benefits are all

done essentially with water. And when you can use something natural like that, it doesnt get better. Gross recommends a 20-minute treatment once or twice a week, but of course, hes not suggesting steam is a substitute for in-office ministrations: Its best to steam before a chemical peel because the steam will loosen dead skin cells and enhance a chemical peels exfoliation, he says. Back home, when clusters of tiny bumps appear on my forehead and cheeksthe result, perhaps, of spooning my Delta Air Lines blanket a bit too closelyI put off my monthly derm visit in favor of a facial with famed Manhattan-based French aesthetician Isabelle Bellis, renowned for her deep face massage technique and, in true facialist form, attention to cleansing. Bellis handles the visage of megamodel Anja Rubik, among other supes. During my session, Bellis talks me through each step, making easy suggestions: Perhaps I might give my skin a rest by applying my beloved retinols every other day? Why dont I try a thermal water mist after washing with New York City tap water? Nothing extreme. Despite her request that I not rinse my skin after her treatment, ever facial-phobic I slip into the bathroom and frantically splash with water. But the oils shes used dont budge and, even better, the glow remains. Maybe its the dreamy lighting, but I swear Bellis windmill-like fingertips have visibly lifted my cheeks and browsand my jet-lagged under-eyes appear less puffy. Though Im unlikely ever to completely forsake my trusted derms, I float out onto the New York City street ready for dual citizenship.

THE GREAT DIVIDE: DERM VS. FACIALIST CLEANSERS

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From left: ZELENS Z-22 Absolute Face Oil; COLBERT M.D. Illumino Face Oil; DR. SEBAGH Rose de Vie Serum Dlicat; LORAL PARIS Age Perfect Glow Renewal Facial Oil; ALGENIST Advanced Anti-Aging Repairing Oil

For her upcoming turn as Mystique in X-Men: Days of Future Past , Jennifer Lawrence used Colbert M.D. Balance Purifying Cleanser to scrub off her costume: blue makeup from head to toe.

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Ocean Spray A splash of color in a sea of neutrals, Turquoise Lancme Artliner 24H shines like a glimpse of a mermaids tail. Time Traveler Like any good investment, Artistry Youth Xtend Serum Concentrate pays dividends by keeping skin youthful longer.

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248 BEAUTY It List

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GIRL-ON-GIRL POWER
Lizzy Goodman reports on the fluidity of female sexuality and how many young, once straight women are leaving their husbands to be with other women. Are they leaving it all? Or having it all?
Nicole Sachs remembers perfectly the moment she realized she was gay. I was driving to the city to have dinner with a friend Ive known since we were 19, she says. Im going down the parkway from Westchester, and its very beautiful, very scenic, you know, the trees blowing in the wind, the sun coming through the cloudsand I had this crazy epiphany. I was like: Im gay. Its okay. Its who I am. At the time, Nicole had been separated from her husband for a year and had begun exploring same-sex relationships but was in the midst of one last reconciliation attempt with him. I started having this fantasy that Id just stay married until I was in my sixties, and one day Id meet some woman and she and I would adopt old dogs and, like, live on a ranch, she says, laughing and shaking her head. When she arrived at the restaurant, Nicole, who has the maturity and emotional perspective of the 41-yearold psychotherapist she is, but the manner of a sugar-high six-year-old, giddily announced her revelation. I sit down at the bar and I say to my friend, Id just like to tell you: Im gay! I tell her my plan, that Im going to stay married for another 10 or 15 years and then do all these other things. And I have to give her so much credit, because she didnt make fun of me.

She looked and me and she goes, Well, Nicole, thats a really long time. It seems like every time you turn around these days you hear about another woman who is leaving her man for a woman: actress Cynthia Nixon, J.Crews Jenna Lyons, my good friend Rachel, who gave me a blow-by-blow account of how she fell in love with a woman postdivorce. Okay, three may not be a trend, but lately I find myself curious about women not much older than I am who have careers, husbands, kidsthe trifecta Id like to hitbut then decide to upend their lives to be with women. Which is not to say Im actively considering it myself. While Im attracted enough to women to understand the impulseI had a brief samesex dalliance in collegeIm more turned on by men, drawn to their foreignness. Theres something about the juxtaposition of hard, cool maleness and my opposite impulses that makes me feel calm and settled in the world. So when Rachel, a Manhattan teacher, related the euphoria of realizing your best girlfriend could also be your partner and lover and asked me, Why wouldnt

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you want to have sex with that person? my first thought was: Why cant that person be a dude? I may be somewhat in the minority on this, however. Many hetero women will talk about things with their friends that they dont with their husbands, says Evergreen State College history and family-studies professor Stephanie Coontz. Women tend to get more dissatisfied with marriage over time than men do. Women spend a lot more time doing the emotional work in marriage, and thats tiring. And then theres just the work work, she continues. Were socialized to want to marry,

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cal responses of men and women as they watched an array of provocative imagery while also rating their level of arousal. Not only did women respond to a wider variety of stimuli (including a woman doing calisthenics), but, unlike the men, what they said turned them on and what their bodies measurably reacted to were wildly different. Psychologist Lisa M. Diamond tracked the sexual behavior of nearly 100 women, regularly checking in with them over the course of a decade, and found that one of the fundamental, defining features of female sexual orientation is its fluidity,

now live together with Marias children. Coming out at any age is emotionally complex. The upside of going through it as an adult is that, hopefully, you have a stronger sense of self. What youre less prepared for is the social restructuring of your existence. Debbie calls it lynch mobbish, Maria says of the threatened feeling they can get when theyre out together. Weve been in that situation where I hear someone whisper, Hey, look at the two dykes. Shell say, Oh, this is lynch mobbish, dont hold my hand. That was the luxury of being in a hetero relationshipId never felt that before.

EVEN HONEY BOO BOO RECENTLY DECLARED THAT EVERYBODYS A LITTLE GAY.
but then once we get there, were like, Huh, why am I doing so much housework? Now, this I can relate to. Not the housework per semy boyfriends have generally been more into cooking and cleaning than I ambut the broader existential worry that what I think I want from a relationship might not actually satisfy me. It was quite controversial in 1948 when sexologist Alfred Kinsey announced that, based on self-reported desires and experience, many people fell somewhere in the middle of his zero-to-six scale, with zero being exclusively heterosexual and six exclusively homosexual. These days, however, the fact that sexual attraction exists on a spectrum is pretty established. After all, even Honey Boo Boo recently declared that everybodys a little gay and if thats not evidence of the cultural integration of broad-spectrum sexuality, I dont know what is. Whats less well integrated is the idea that peoples number on the scale may jump around over the course of their lives. This seems especially true for women, whose sexual desire and behavior varies more over time than mens, according to data from the University of Chicago sex survey and a variety of other academic reports, and is more responsive to experience and social context. Theres also evidence of a curious detachment between what we report we like sexually and what our bodies respond to, a finding explored in a recent book by journalist Daniel Bergner, What Do Women Want? Bergner discusses the work of psychology researcher and sexologist Meredith Chivers, who measured the physias she wrote in her 2008 book, Sexual Fluidity: A predominantly heterosexual woman might, at some point in time, become attracted to a woman, just as a predominantly lesbian woman might at some point become attracted to a man. Sexuality just isnt as simple as being born gay or straight, she tells me: The evidence suggests theres a genetic contribution, but its not enough to get you all the way to gay. You can have five different gay people in front of you, and they all might be gay for different physiological and cultural reasons. Maria, a pragmatic, attractive blond Canadian now in her midforties, married her (male) high school sweetheart and had a son in her early twenties. About a decade ago, she and her husband, a lawyer, moved to New York and had a second son. Problems started four or five years after we moved, and we separated after six years, she says over glasses of sangria one evening. My ex worked 18hour days. I never saw him. As things at home deteriorated, Maria increasingly found herself grabbing a bite to eat after work with Debbie, a colleague in the real-estate business. One night she kissed me, Maria says. I didnt stop her. And I liked it. Afterward, she panicked and told Debbie she couldnt see her anymore. I was like, Im married, I have kids. Maria even lied to Debbie about the chemistry of the kiss. I told her, It didnt do it for me, sorry, knowing full well that I was absolutely attracted to her. Meanwhile, internally, Maria was spinning. Am I gay? Have I been gay all my life? Eventually, she confessed her attraction, and the two Maria is gay enough to be harassed on the street but not gay enough to feel totally comfortable in the lesbian community. I havent always been gay, so I dont have these great coming-out stories, and I cant connect to certain things, Maria says. Take that movie The Kids Are Alright. All the lesbians I spoke to said, Well, of course the lesbian has got to be cheating with a man. And I said, I get that: She was cheating with the father of her children, even though she was artificially inseminated. Im always the one with the dissenting opinion. Sachs couldnt agree more about the challenges of joining the lesbian world. I was so goddamn distrusted, she says. Everybody thought I was out to steal their girlfriend. Id walk into a bar and people would get icy. It was like she was both fresh meatbait to tempt your loyal girlfriendand a predator, eyeing the crowd for the most appealing target. Id cry myself to sleep because I was like, How am I going to have friends? It took a while, but the iciness thawed and half the community, she says, attended the couples wedding last fall. As I alluded to earlier, Ive made out with girls. Women are beautiful. Its always seemed quite natural to me to want to kiss them. But in that moment of truth, when it was time to go beyond that, I suddenly felt very straight. Can two girls even have sex? Maria says jokingly. At first she wasnt sure she could go through with it. Its one thing to be the taker and a whole other if youre going to be the giver. I remember Debbie saying to me: Well, you know, when you care about somebody enough youll actu-

WorldMags.net 252 BEAUTY Psychology

ally want to, and thats how it worked. I actually wanted to please her. Rachel had a similar experience. There were a few moments where I was freaking out, she recalls, smiling. But she could talk about it. I was able to get giggly and a little awkward, she says. It was almost like two virginsyou know, like, What are we doing? Although her girlfriend wasnt equally virginal, she says, she played that part with me in a way that I think girls can do with other girls. Its about empathy. Now the strangeness has vanished. Sex is just sex, Rachel says. Maria echoes a sentiment I heard a lot: At the end of the day, its about the person. She was the right girl. I often say to my friends and to her, I forget youre a woman. I dont even look at her as a male or female. Shes Debbie. You get some push-back when you decide to write about later-in-life lesbians. A gay friend of mine rolled her eyes at the clich of yet another straight girl getting curious about lesbianism. Another friend objected to what she perceived as any suggestion that homosexuality is a choice. These are common refrains, it turns out. Sachs de-

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But there is a slight complication: Straight girls do like to have sex with women, Sachs says. During her separation but before she realized she was truly gayand, no, she didnt stay with her husband after her aha momentshe did some exploring with women. The first woman I ever had a quasi-relationship with, we had this torrid six-week affair, Sachs recalls. One time we were in the Urban Outfitters dressing room, and I pushed her up against the wall and started kissing her. She was loving it, but then she stopped me and goes, Please, I really dont want to be anyones experiment. Perhaps its not the experimentation that bothers gay womenafter all, trying on different versions of ourselves inspired by some spark of attraction is an essential part of romance, regardless of orientationas much as the suspicion that straight girls may, well, exploit them. I learned a new term when reporting this piece: barsexual, aka a woman who makes out with other women in bars to get attention from men. While both Sachs and Maria discovered their same-sex attraction as adults,

worked. Im literally wearing a gasstation attendant uniform that says TOMMY on it. I have a crew cut and a chain wallet. He looks at me and says, Youre not gay, she says. Im like, Here is the father of my children. They lived together for a couple of years, and then, at 30, she told him she wanted a baby. Nine months later, she gave birth, but the couple soon separated, and Katia landed at the Atlanta outpost of a community founded in the 60s to research communal living and human sexuality. The only other young resident in the house at the time was Katias now wife, Leigh, who was also pregnant. Katias son was born a month before Leighs daughter. The two mothers shared the biggest bedroom in the house, sleeping in a California king with their infants between them. She likes to say we fell in love touching fingers and toes, because thats about all Id let her touch, Katia says, explaining that for a while she avoided a sexual relationship for fear shed never stop wanting men. The two have been together for 15 years and are co-raising their children. I believe I ended up with a woman because I dont

I OFTEN SAY TO HER, I FORGET YOURE A WOMAN. I DONT EVEN LOOK AT HER AS A MALE OR FEMALE. SHES DEBBIE.
scribes a conversation she had with a gay friend when they were both in their late twenties: I said something flippant, like, I could have been gay, I could have chosen that path. Shes never been that angry at me. Basically what she said is, This is my fucking life. This is the blood that courses through my veins. Dont tell me you could maybe choose it. But she also recalls a conversation she and her wife of a little over a year, Tiffany Caldwell, had with a lesbian couple whove been out for years. We were saying whether you know when youre 8 or 38, you become as gay as any other gay person, she explains. Her point is that to judge gayness based on length of time served, so to speak, is its own kind of bigotry. Diamond says, The formation of the gay community was people speaking out and feeling a sense of collectiveness, like, Oh my God, I struggled and hated myself too. (The modern version of this is the well-known It Gets Better campaign.) Thats part of why some people respond to the notion of fluidity with fear or hostility: It doesnt fit their experience; they cant understand it. Well, nothing fits everyones experience. 45-year-old Katia, who was raised on a corn farm in Illinois, knew as a girl she could go both ways. When I was playing doctor behind the garage, I was an equal-opportunity employerI had the whole neighborhood back there, she says. But once I was about 10 and got that girls were supposed to like boys, I didnt relate sensually with girls again until I was in my thirties. She went to college, became a social worker, and prepared herself for the marriage she thought she wanted, dating a series of men, but something was off. On the one hand, she craved intimacy with men; on the other, she didnt like the doormat she became in relationships with them. At 25, she hit the road, hitchhiking around the country for two years before following her first adult female crush to Atlanta, a gorgeous belly-dancing girl she met while busking in New Orleans. There, Katia threw herself into what she describes as a dyke identity, yet, she says, I felt really guilty because I still loved boys. One day this amazing six-foot-tall man walked into the caf where Katia have the same amount of emotional baggage as I do with a guy, she says. Katia is a better woman with a woman, she says, than she is with a man. No one I spoke to told me that she lived in a romantic utopiawhat relationship is like that? Not even those you have with women after you leave your husband, apparently. But to the extent these couples work, it seems as much a product of the self-awareness that preceded the gender switch as of the switch itself. To paraphrase Cynthia Nixon in The New York Times, the goal is not a perfect marriage or career or angelic, prodigy children the goal is maintaining relative sanity in the face of attempting to have some of all that. The goal is as simple and as impossible as knowing yourself and having the courage to act on what you know. Being unhappy just became the baseline, Rachel told me. I remember thinking the skies were stormy for so long, and suddenly, with Luce, it was like a movie: The sun came out. She smiled. We talk about it all the time. We talk about everything. Cause were girls.

Even Wally Lamb, the best-selling pop novelist, is taking on the subject of women loving women: The protagonist in his latest novel, We Are Water, is a middle-aged woman who leaves her husband of 27 years for a new life with a New York City art-world doyenne.

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LIVING
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Roger Davies (makeup by Patricia Wolf; hair by Gabriela Umpierrez)

STATE OF PLAYA
The living is easy for Gabriela Perezutti Hearst in Punta del Este. Alison S. Cohn jets to Uruguay for a weekend with the Candela designer

Perezutti Hearst, in her own design, strikes a pose in the main houses entryway, which boasts reclaimedwood paneling and cement floors.

EDITED BY AMANDA FITZSIMONS

LIVING Design 257

The lady of the house takes a seat in a poolside spread that was designed to serve as an outdoor living room.

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(Clockwise from above) A Candela skirt dresses up one of the pool houses; the propertys private beach on the Atlantic; a thatch-roofed guest cottage; the view from another pool house

Its our version of a kibbutzwhere we go to unwind, quips Candela designer Gabriela Perezutti Hearst, welcoming me to the vacation compound in Punta del Este on Uruguays Atlantic coast where she shares holidays, in true collective community style, with various combinations of the following people: her husband, Austin Hearst; their Brady Bunch blended clan of her 5-year-old twins, Mia and Olivia; his two children, Andie, 18, and Sam, 17; and their two close Argentinian friends, Osvaldo Brucco and Paola Pravato. This Thanksgiving, says Perezutti Hearst, were planning to be a whole soccer team! Born to one of Uruguays oldest ranch-

ing families, Perezutti Hearst couldnt be kept down on the estancia once she got a taste of the high life, partying as a teen at Tequila in the Hamptons of South Americato which seemingly every Brazilian supermodel gravitates in the high seasonknown to locals as Punta. At 21, she was scouted to model in Paris, where she signed with Next Management. In 2004, while trying out life in Manhattan, she founded Candela, a luxe bohemian line that remixes breezy maxidresses with gauchoinspired heavyweight knits. The whole driving force behind starting a collection, says the designer with a laugh, was to not go back to sell cows. But when her father passed away in 2011, the ever-enterprising Perezutti Hearst worked out a plan whereby she could run the family business from afar, with trips to Uruguay to meet with the foreman every two months. We have around 10,000 sheep and 5,000 head of cattle, and its completely different from what I do in fashion, she says, but now I love it. Still, the 14-hour flight through Miami to Montevideo plus a 90-minute hop to the pampas would wear on even the most intrepid of travelers. With this in mind, Austin Hearst

envisioned a Punta property as a refueling station for his wife. Hearst commissioned noted local architect Martn Gmezwhose work makes creative use of reclaimed wood and other materials, including concrete, iron, and glass, to seamlessly integrate structures with their surroundingsto build onto the existing home. Gmez added five thatch-roofed guest cottages, including one with matching twin beds for Mia and Olivia. Perezutti Hearst actually prefers sleeping in one of these huts to the master bedroom. You wake up and see that, she says, gesturing at the waves breaking below, and feel a little bit like Tarzan, you know? Also key: For Perezutti Hearst, an avid swimmer, Gmez made a solar panelheated lap pool with a view to the ocean, envisioning the space as an outdoor living room of sorts that creates a fluid transition between interior and exterior. She loves this spot for enjoying lazy afternoons with friends, reminiscing about old times and feasting on Uruguayan delicacies such as sweetbreads with fresh lemon. When I travel, I want to have a good time, says Perezutti Hearst. I want to eat well, rest, do everything I dont do in New York.

258 LIVING Design

Planning an escape? Find Perezutti Hearsts suggestions for where to eat, shop, and play in Punta del Este at ELLE.com/uruguayguide.

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EYES WIDE OPEN


Carrie Mae Weems, Untitled (Man and Mirror), 1990. Gelatin silver print, 27 1/4 x 27 1/4 in. Collection of Eric and Liz Lefkofsky, 115-128.2010, promised gift to The Art Institute of Chicago. Carrie Mae Weems. Photography The Art Institute of Chicago. Courtesy of the artists and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York

Staring down issues of gender, family, and race, artist Carrie Mae Weems has made a career of setting historys record straight. Michael J. Agovino meets the woman behind the workand finds her fabulous. Fabulous!
This happened in Rome not long ago, in 2006in the twenty-first century, in other words. The influential but out-ofthe-limelight artist Carrie Mae Weems had received a prestigious fellowship at the American Academy in Rome, and not only was she grateful to be in Italy and having the time of her life, she was actually connecting the cultural dots, using the city as a backdrop to produce some of her best work to date. One day, though, a past fellowWeems wont say whopaid a visit to the academys villa atop Janiculum Hill and sputtered, Carrie Mae Weems, whatwhat are you doing here? Weems could have said that her workbased in photography, and about African-American life, by all means, but obsessed too with gender, class, and historyhad as much right to a place at the academy as this womans, maybe more. She could (and maybe should) have said, What the fuck are you doing here? She thought about it. Instead, she let it go. But slights like that remain. And though this scene could end here, with Weems laughing about it (as she eventually does), wait, give her another minute: The deeper point is, I kept bumping into all these people, white people, whod been coming to Rome for years, leading programs in Rome, doing all these things, and Im like, You never told me you come to Rome. People I really trusted, people I thought had kind of open minds, are having this whole dynamic experience that they dont think Im worthy enough to tell. Theres a sense that I dont even deserve to know, because theres nothing that I can possibly do with thatyou see what Im saying?

THIS MONTH IN READER Carrie Mae Weems, photographer extraordinaire, gets the last laugh page 260 // A tale of learning to swimand to live page 264

260 READER Profile

While 51 percent of todays visual artists are women, only 5 percent of the art on display in U.S. museums is made by women.

And then she laughs about it. And what a laugh it is, deep and generous and ongoing, enough to fill the ample storage and office space she has in Syracuse, New York, the city where she lives with her husband, Jeff Hoone, the executive director of Light Work, a group that provides financial support to artists. Today, the laugh has a special resonance I dont pick up on until later. Its the first full day of autumn, a Monday, crisp and brilliant, and what she knows, but cant tell me yet, is that shes already won a 2013 MacArthur fellowship, aka the genius grant. That big, ongoing laugh, I realize when the news goes public two days later, is her belated retort. The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York is a good retort too. Thats where 128 pieces of Weems extensive body of work will be, starting January 24, in her first-everspeaking of belatedmidcareer survey. Its an oeuvre that began in the late 1970s, with blackand-white photographs of her family and moved toward the conceptual, employing staged images, performance, the use of written and spoken word, and video. Weems work is political but not polemical; powerful without yelling; content driven while maintaining a visual poetry. In the series From Here I Saw What Happened and I Cried, she puts the voiceless into the historical record, tinting daguerreotypes of nineteenthcentury black people (some of them slaves) bright red, then etching the images with words. (Across one older woman in a head scarf: You Became Mammie, Mama, Mother & Then, Yes, ConfidantHa.) In Roaming (taken, indeed, in Rome) the artist traverses the city as a specter in a long black dress, her back turned to us as she bears witness to the monuments of historyand in effect rewrites the book, inserting herself into the center of a scene with which women who look like her (or women, period) are rarely associated. One of the most interesting things about her work is an overriding commitment to challenging the status quo, says Kathryn E. Delmez, the curator at Nashvilles Frist Center for the Visual Artswhere Weems retrospective originated before traveling to museums in Portland, Oregon; Cleveland; California (at Stanford University); and finally New York. Weems best-known work is the 1990 Kitchen Table Series. The black-andwhite staged photographs tell the story of Weems (or a character portrayed by her) as she negotiates domestic lifehav-

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ing her hair brushed by a friend, tiredly watching her children, eyeing a lover over a drinkall while seated at the most basic of tables and under the harshest of lights. What looks simple at first is rich in content. Even the lampinterrogative, accusatory, more apt for the 77th Precinct than a kitchenis loaded. The series ends with the protagonist playing solitaire, as unforgettable as Bergmans Knight in The Seventh Seal, only instead of Max von Sydow playing chess with Death, its Carrie Mae before a deck of cards. Weems says her aim with Kitchen Table was to place a woman boldly front and center in the work and have her look back at the audience. There was a time in the 50s, 60s, and 70s when women didnt really know how to present themselves before the camera. Rarely, if ever, in art history have black women been depicted as protagonists, dealing with angst and triumph, despair and joy, sometimes nothingness. When we put the exhibition on the calendar, says Jennifer Blessing, the Guggenheims senior curator for photography, anytime I spoke with younger artists or her peers, everyone was so excited. It felt that it was time, it should happen. Its time for her to have her retrospective. The show caps a roughly yearlong period in which Weems, now 60, has been showered with accolades: the U.S. State Departments Medal of Arts Award, presented by Hillary Clinton; an honor from the national Delta Sigma Theta sorority; the Congressional Black Caucus Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award; and the Gordon Parks Foundation Award (alongside fellow honorees Peter Beard, Swizz Beatz, and Donna Karan). When that call came in September, Weems thought that the MacArthur Foundation wanted her to recommend another artist for the grant. Told she was a winner, she put her head down on her desk and bawled for five minutes. More than the money$625,000it basically meant, Hey, sister, your work has not been in vain, she tells me later. Then I wiped my tears and went back to work and cooked dinner for my husband. Carrie Mae Weems is tall and fitwith her, 60 really is the new 40and her voice, an alto in the mid to low registers, is clear and mellifluous, with excursions to the South. Combine her presence with her cultural breadthshe transitions fluidly from Italian cinema to John Coltrane and she could easily sit in for Charlie Rose during his next vacation to France. Shes self-deprecating with regard to

(Above) Weems. (Left) From her revered Kitchen Table Series, Untitled (Man and Mirror), 1990

her appearanceI always think, You should try to do something with yourselfbut on this upstate New York afternoon, in jeans, a slim black trench, thick-framed black glasses, and black nail polish, shes Brooklyn chic, and in fact, she keeps a studio around the corner from the Pratt Institute. She sits close, leans forward, and likes to touch you when she makes an important point, which is often, and offers high fives when we agree. She loves the word fabulous and usually says it twice, deeper the second time, with fervor. Fabulous. Fabulous! Weems grew up in Portland, Oregon, one of seven children in a middle-class family that provided the moral grounding that gives you the ability to walk into any room and feel comfortable. Her mother ran a barbecue restaurantstill the best Weems has tasted outside of St. Louis, she saysand her father was a laborer and singer who performed on the church circuit. At 16, she got pregnant with Faith, her first and only child, an experience she calls difficult, painful, upsetting. I didnt know if my life was over or not, but I had great support from my family. Her mother, sister, and aunt helped her raise her daughter. Weems took dance classes from a young age. I was a natural, she says. After graduating from high school, she visited her best friend in San Francisco, who was taking classes with the postmoderndance pioneer Anna Halprin. Weems just tagged along, but as soon as Halprin laid eyes on her, she invited her to join the esteemed San Francisco Dancers Workshop. It was truly amazing, Weems says.

Courtesy of the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York

261

It was very avant-garde work. We were taking our clothes off constantly. After a year and a half, I didnt quite understand the value of dance, Weems says. But dancing was an entre into many other parts of my life. Lacking any real plan, she came to New York, turned 18, and lived with a cast of free spirits in Harlem, then pingponged between coasts. When a boyfriend gave her a camera for her twentieth birthday, the magic of photography kind of hit. She enrolled in classes at the Studio Museum in Harlem, where the photographers Dawoud Bey and Roy DeCaravapioneers, younger and elder, of documenting African-American lifewould become teacher and inspiration, respectively, as well as dear friends. From there I knew that I was pretty serious about this, she says, that it would be my lifes work. Her first solo show, Family Pictures and Stories, was a reaction against the controversial 1965 Moynihan Report, which argued that the black American family was inherently flawed, largely because of a matriarchal structure that hindered men from acting as authority figures. Refuting the claim, the black-and-white photos of Weems own large clanworking, parenting, arguing, rejoicingportray AfricanAmerican life in its totality. The series debuted in 1984 as part of her MFA thesis at University of California, San Diego (she had earned a BFA from the heralded CalArts in 1981). She insisted it be shown in downtown San Diego: I knew black people werent coming to snooty La Jolla. I wanted the work to be seen by a diverse audience. Weems says she still often finds herself the only black person at art or social events, which she describes as shocking. And shes still grappling with audience. Im always thinking about access to a broader community that doesnt participate in the museum. How do I have a conversation with them? Not that she hasnt made inroads. The only time that 35 black people have ever called me in the course of a day is when I had work in Jet. Girl, youre in Jet. Not Artforum, not The New York Times. I was in Jet, and that meant something to my folks. She leans closer, touches my knee. I saw Angela Bassett recently, who I adore, and she said, Carrie Mae Weems, can I take my picture with you? And Im

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(From top) The Edge of TimeAncient Rome from Roaming (2006); Mourning from Constructing History: A Requiem to Mark the Moment (2008)

thinking, No, I want to take my picture with you! Youre my queen. I was stunned she knew about me. Race and gender are raised ad infinitum in discussions of her work, which in itself is, of course, ghettoizing. (They want to see the black Carrie, is how Weems puts it.) While some consider her an activist, she begs to differ. Im very much an idealist, but I work by myself. Im in no groups. I dont demonstrate. The marches Ive done, Ive done on my own. I see Carrie as an American artist, says the photographer and multimedia artist LaToya Ruby Frazier, 31, who studied with Weems and recently had her first solo show at the Brooklyn Museum. Her work isnt meant to be just for black audiences; this is a concern for all mankind, which is why there is such a poignant and poetic presence in all her images.

Weems absorbed much of Romes la dolce vita ethos. (On the subject of her sixtiethbirthday celebration at the Alhambra Ballroom in Harlem last April: It was a kickin party. Everybody was up in there. People were cryin and singin and swingin. We had great food, great music. It was, like, fabulous. Fabulous! Ha!) Shes optimistic, too, about the gains some AfricanAmericans have madein the arts, especiallybut for most, she likes to use poet Amiri Barakas phrase: It is the changing same. Much of the black population in her city of Syracuse lives below the poverty line, she says, and not only that, they live below the poverty line of Mississippi. In 2012, she established the Institute of Sound + Style, a summer program in Syracuse that pays high school students a small stipend to learn skills for arts and fashion careers. Also in 2012, she debuted The Obama Project, a video in which the presidents face morphs into that of Abraham Lincoln, a Batman-style Joker, a leopard, Hitler, Mao, Jesus, and others; over Samuel Barbers Adagio for Strings, Weems voice intones, He was like me. He was like you. He was like us. He was other, he was different. He was a kid, a punk, a neophyte, a nigger, a naf, a nobody. And then, a somebody. Today, she says shes not disappointed with Obama but with the country. There was something about the American imagination that wanted to express its openness, but hes been treated so badly, by the public and especially by the right, but also by Democrats. So every move he made was questioned from all angles. Shes up for a glass of wine now, and then its back to work and her latest project, a commission from UMass Amherst to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the death of brilliant sociologist and civilrights activist W.E.B. Du Bois. She wanted to create something differentfor herself and for Du Boisthat would be really interesting and memorable and meaningful for hundreds of people. So with landscape artist Walter Hood, Weems designed a garden in his honor and named a flower, the Du Bois Peony of Hope, which she hopes will be on sale for the next 100 years. Im so excited, she says, laughing that big laugh again. You can have hope spring eternal in your garden. Its fabulous. Its really fabulous!

262 READER Profile

Courtesy of the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York

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AFRAID TO GO DEEP
Those words were something of a metaphor for Irina Aleksanders life until, at age 28, she decided to take the plunge
We are here to learn how to swim. By we, I am referring to the two dozen or so men and women between the ages of 20 and 60 who are huddled at the edge of the Y pool on East 14th Street in New York City. Though we havent yet dipped a toe in, were all wet because a large sign in the locker room ordered us to shower before entering the pool area. Many of us are wearing impractical bathing suits that have never seen water. Because we are also required to wear swim caps, we look very strangethe neat contours of our bodies and protruding goggles give us the appearance of wary extraterrestrials visiting an unknown planet. Our nearly naked state reveals that we have a surprising amount of body hair, nice breasts, dimpled thighs, tattoos, moles that maybe should be checked out, mystery scars, and at least 15 different shades of skin tone, due to our various nationalities. We are cold, and many of us are scared. We have paid $275 for 12 weeks of lessons, and some of us, I know, are already regretting the purchase the way one regrets ordering a high-tech vegetable chopper from a late-night infomercial. To ease our anxiety, we ask questions. Whats your name? Do you really not know how to swim, or do you kind of know? So, like, you cant even float, right? Two athletic-looking men and one woman stand before us. They welcome us to adult beginner swim, and I laugh at the classs titlesuggesting as it does that we are beginners not only at swimming, but also at adulthood. The female instructor glares at me and sternly informs us that if we miss a class, there will be absolutely no makeups! Today we will be separated into smaller groups based on ability. As a quick test, Tony, an instructor wearing a full-body wet suit, stands in the middle of the pool and asks us to swim to him one at a time in any way we know how. Very quickly it becomes clear that some of us have lied; some of us can in fact kind of swim and float. I am one of the liars. I can usually doggy-paddle for about seven seconds before my nerves take over and I sink. I walk down the steps into the pool, swim halfway to Tony, and stop. What happened? he asks. Im afraid to go deeper, I say. The water, which is a pale blue and reeks of chlorine, is up to my waist. Tony assigns me to the lowest level. Im afraid to go deeper. Once, sometimes twice a year I mumble this as I enter oceans and friends pools. My mother never learned to swim, and so I never did either. The last time someone tried to teach me, I was 11 and my uncle had decided that enough was enough. On an overcast Sunday at Manhattan Beach in Brooklyn, I was playing with my cousins near the shore when he picked me up and tossed me into the ocean. By the time I inhaled to scream, I was underwater. The idea, I think, was that nature would take overthat Id kick, battle the water, and eventually rise to the surface. Instead I lay down on the bottom of the ocean and allowed the water to enter my lungs. That I seemed to possess no survival instinct, as its calledno innate part of me that knew what to do in the face of dangerbecame apparent again the next year when I encountered a snake in the woods. As the other kids ran screaming, I just stood there frozen, tears streaming down my face. I have no idea what personality traits bring a child to so passively greet ominous circumstances, but these episodes do reveal a fatalistic predisposition that has followed me into my adult beginner life. As I sank to the bottom of the ocean, it simply did not occur to me that there was anything I could do about it.

264 READER Essay

Guillaume Reynaud/Folio-id.com

I couldnt have been in the water longer than seconds, but in my memory the moment stretches like a film reel, each frame full of distinct sights and sensations. I remember the pillowy sand beneath my thighs, the light filtering through the deep green water above me, the human shadow eclipsing the light, and my uncles arms reaching in and yanking me out. I remember coughing and coughing, and then the reel cuts off and there are no more images, only the feelings of inadequacy and shame for having disappointed, and the certainty that I never wanted to see that particular movie again. Just blow out slowly, Tony is telling me. There are seven of us in Tonys group, and we are learning to blow bubbles. While my classmates keep their heads submerged for five, even 10 seconds, I lower only my facethe tip of my nyloncapped head sticking outpush all of my air out in one forceful exhale, and bop up immediately. A couple of times I try holding my nose on the way down, but Tony says its not allowed. He tells me to just try holding my breath, but again I dip, blow, bop up like a buoy. Tony looks confused. We move on to an exercise that requires us to push off the side of the pool and glide with our faces down in the water. The glide itself is not bad, but I keep raising my head as soon as I start, and Tonys patience is fading. Just hold your breath! he instructs. I want to please Tony, so the next time I try to remain under and somehow manage to inhale water. Why cant you just hold it? Tony asks as I come up coughing. He moves on to his more promising pupils, but it is too late, I cant stopI am crying in the pool. Then I realize something that will bring me great comfort over the next three months: No one can tell when youre crying in the water. The first time I saw the ocean, I was 10 years old, and it was wintertime, and my mother and I had walked four blocks from our high-rise in Coney Island, Brooklyn, to the shore in our heavy coats and stood staring at the Atlantic as if it were a gorgeous mirage. The previous night wed emigrated from Russia. Our first year in Brooklyn, I attended a day camp at Brighton Beach, where, observing a sprightly girl named Katya in the water, I began teaching myself the doggy paddle, but my visit to Manhattan Beach later that summer put an end to my aquatic interests. It would be unfair, however, to suggest

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that my ambivalence about water began on that day. Even as a young child Id had a consuming fascination with seas and oceans, which, growing up in Moscow, seemed about as faraway and exotic to me as the moon. My favorite book was about a young girl who gets swept away by a storm and lands on an island made entirely of candy. My favorite TV show was The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau, dubbed in Russian. By the time Id read Gullivers Travels, I was convinced that large bodies of water were portals to fantastical, possibly frightening worldsa theory that proved true after we crossed the Atlantic by plane and landed in Coney Island. But childrens books are made of the very real terrors suffered by adults, and after Id actually met the ocean, I began to see it for what it is: a sprawling, menacing body with its own heartbeats, temperamental whims, and immeasurable strength. By high school, Id refused to read Moby-Dick and still havent. Even now, I memorize drowning data in New York the way others note crime statistics. Though I have lived here for more than a decade, Ive never taken a ferry, because I know that the waters surrounding Manhattan have currents powerful enough to carry even competent swimmers out to sea, and that in 1904, for instance, the General Slocum, a steamship traveling along the East River, caught fire and sank, killing an estimated 1,021 peoplethe deadliest day in New York Citys history until September 11, 2001.

The author, swimming

When I get home, I call my mother. She has no memory of that day at Manhattan Beach, but after I describe it to herweve somehow never talked about itshe tells me that something similar happened to her. When she was five, she slipped from my grandmothers grasp as they were crossing a shallow lake and fell in. Her reel is eerily similar to mine: the soft sand, the filtering light, the human shadow coming to rescue her. She hasnt entered a body of water since. Fear of water can be a hereditary condition, suffered by a surprising number of people. A quick Google search reveals that Eva Mendes and Snoop Dogg cant swim, and neither can former Baywatch babe Carmen Electra. According to the USA Swimming Foundation, if a parent doesnt know how to swim, there is only a 13 percent chance that his or her child will learn. Up to half of Americans cant swim, and an average of 10 people drown in the country every day.

The week my classes begin, I happen to be reading Renata Adlers 1976 novel Speedboat, in which she writes, Every child, naturally, who was not a sissy, swam. In lakes, and seas, and heavily chlorinated pools, they earned their certificates. People who missed their proper year often remained afraid of swimming, driving, hunting or whatever, all their lives. That passage isnt about swimming exactly. Its about something far more importantits about how we come to think of ourselves. To know the self as a sissy is to avoid skis, bicycles, mountains, and tennis courts because of the strong suspicion that you will not, necessarily, know to raise a racket to block the ball from hitting your face. If we dont learn to swim, we lose a certain faith in our ability to meet physical challenges, but the impact may be greater yet, if sneakingly pernicious. Realizing that not only does your body fail to stay afloat but that it doesnt even bother to kick when faced with its own demise begins to feel like a repulsive evolutionary defect that must be concealed at all costsan Achilles heel so fundamental that it threatens all our other accomplishments. (Is there anything more humiliating than lacking a basic instinct for self-preservation?) That I want to learn to swim now, at the age of 28, has less to do with my being afraid of drowning than it does with my growing increasingly tired with myself for being afraid of whatever. When I return to the Y, Tony delivers strange news. I, along with three others from the lowest beginner group, have been reassigned to an even lower beginner group. Weeks later, after I get to know my new classmates, I can only assume that the good people at the Y created a special level for uslets call it traumatized adult beginner swim and called in special forces. My classmates are all from India. Upal and Ujjal are fraternal twins in their late twenties who live together in Stuyvesant Town. The brothers took

Ry Russo-Young

He took off a sweater that was hung over his shoulders and dove in. He had an inexplicable contempt for men who did not hurl themselves into pools.John Cheever, The Swimmer

Essay READER 265

a swim class when they were kids but didnt like their teacher. So we never went back, Upal told me. Ujjal has a rather large tattoo of two dolphins on his back, and Im not sure hes aware of the irony. Our fourth is Anustee, a doe-eyed young woman who wears a bathing suit with a skirt attached. Whenever Anustee enters the water, her eyebrows travel upward on her forehead in an expression that communicates pure terror. Several times I wanted to ask her why she never learned to swim, but she always seemed too distressed to engage in small talk. Since none of us had learned to blow bubbles, we start there. Show me what you do, says Will, our new teacher. I show him and brace for criticism. Instead, Will comes up close to me and begins speaking in a calm, measured tone. Its okay, he says. This is totally normal. Youre just a little nervous in the water. I want you to try something for

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neously wish that he were my father and my husband. And if that sounds twisted, well, then you have not had the terrifying pleasure of being rescued by Will from the depths of the Y pool. After the first lesson, Will teaches us to use kickboards and flippers, which is a little bit like learning to walk horizontally on water using a precarious floating device for balance and giant webbed feet for a manual propeller. (Flippers, I learn later, were the invention of Benjamin Franklin, an avid swimmer who helped popularize aquatics for the masses.) It takes a few weeks to get the hang of these contraptions, but eventually were zooming from one end of the pool to the other like toddlers on training wheels, and though I know Im not swimming, exactly, I think I am starting to understand the concept. When I move across the water, the parts of my life that exist on land seem

titions, the beach towns where they grew up, that time the baby fell in, the brothers who took them surfing, the freedoms water afforded them and the insecurities they still feel from early failures in it. In class, too, we all have our blocks. Upal and Ujjal, who are the only ones who can swim well without flippers, still cannot float. When they try, they sort of hover somewhere between the bottom of the pool and its surface as if frozen in the center of an ice cube. Anustee consistently comes undone in the deep end and thrashes around until Will rushes to her rescue, which always makes me a little jealous. For me, jumping into the water is the hardest. Every week as the others line up and hop in like a row of ducklings, I stand whimpering at the pools edge and categorically refuse to do it no matter how long Will pleads with me. Even when we do this at the shallow end, I cannot seem to get myself

AT TIMES I LOOK AT MY TEACHER, WILL, WITH AFFECTION AND GRATITUDE SO PURE THAT I SIMULTANEOUSLY WISH HE WERE MY FATHER AND MY HUSBAND.
me: Just hum. Hum? Yes, hum. Start humming before you go under and that will pace your breathing. My hum is more like a yogis om as I lower my head into the pool. I focus on humming slowly but steadily so that no water enters my noseOooooommmand as I realize that Ive now been under for several seconds, I become irrationally angry at Tony for not having mentioned this neat trick last week. As I come up, Will is smiling. Thats it, he says. See? Easy. By the end of the class, I not only learn to glide but Im the only one who masters floating, which Will asks me to demonstrate for the rest of the class. A few important words about Will: He is beautiful. Tall, tan, and muscular, he is like a Puerto Rican Michael Phelps. When Will isnt in the pool, he walks around shirtless in ragged sweatpants and beige Crocs. My favorite things about him include a small swirl of hair that forms a rat tail at the back of his neck, and the tongue ring that he tried to be discreet about until it fell out in week five and he had to go fishing for it in the pool. Whenever I panic in the waterwhich is oftenhe will grab my shoulders or my waist and say, Its okay. Youre okay. I got you. Im right here, and I will at times forget that I have a boyfriend and look at Will with affection and gratitude so pure that I will simultaunimportant. Its impossible for me to think about what e-mail I didnt send, or which friend I may have offended. My only priority is not to drown, and so I focus on my kicks, my breath, my muscles, which grow heavy whenever I get nervous. I start to fall in love with the sounds, whichexcept for the times when I hear Wills muffled voice say, Relax your neck, Irina!are a pleasing symphony of low whirls and gargles as the water is pushed around and parted by my own body. As the weeks go on, I begin to think of water as a different mode of existence and of swimming as a practice of essentially adapting my body to alien conditions. I start to see the world divided into people who can survive in dual realities, and more primitive creatures like myself whove been sequestered on the small patches of land that occupy our mostly blue planet. It occurs to me that, with the exception of space, this is the only place where humans get to defy gravity and escape the weight of their tired bodies. Between classes, everyone who hears that Im learning to swim is eager to tell me their own water stories, and I start to feel like the protagonist in John Cheevers The Swimmer, swimming across the backyard pools of peoples childhoods: the old wounds, the competo step forward, and I tell Will with full conviction that I will drown if I do. A few times I start to cry. When I finally do jump inand this takes all of the 12 weeksits not until Will stands in the pool beneath me, offers me his hand, and promises that he will not let go. On our final day, Will brings in a camera and films us so that we can see our progress. I climb out of the pool and stand next to him as he shows me the video in which I attempt to swim without the safety of flippers or a kickboard. I watch my scrawny body making movements Ive never seen it make before, and the shocking part is that Im moving through the poolslowly and sloppily, but Im doing it. See, you have a great kick, Will says. Before I leave, he writes down his e-mail address and tells me to get in touch if I want more swimming lessons, if I have questions, or whatever. I graduate from the Y in June, and in mid-July I fly to Biarritz, where world champion surfer Lisa Andersen has generously agreed to give me a swimming lesson in open water. Andersen is an athlete for Roxy, the apparel brand with a heart-shape logo that is celebrating its twenty-fifth anniversary in 2014. The beach in Biarritz is known for its waves, but when I arrive to observe the annual Roxy Pro competition, all the female
CONTINUED ON PAGE 317

266 READER Essay

Roxy recently launched the Dare Yourself campaign, asking women to submit photos and videos illustrating how they dare themselves in their day-to-day lives.

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ASK E. JEAN
DEAR E. JEAN: I wont bore you with how amazing and perfect my fianc is except to say that hes wonderful, and that he recently surprised me with a $52,000 Mercedes, a beautiful apartment, and a 4-carat diamond ring. I myself have spent $9,500 on a wedding dress and $20,000 just for the wedding planner. But now Im waking up every morning afraid Ive reached the point of no return: My ex-boyfriend is back! He had lost his hedge fund job and thought it best to get out of New York, so he spent the past two years on his parents property outside Durham, North Carolina, getting his MBA at Duke. Now he has returned and is looking for a job. Im ashamed to admit it, but we picked up right where we left off. Ive seen him numerous times, and Im completely in love with him. We even ran off for a weekend trip to Nantucket. Im pretty sure my hair is falling out with anxiety. My wedding is coming up! Do I really want to leave my amazing fianc for someone who is still so unsure of his future? He feels that he cant give me what I need right now (Im 27 and want to start a family soon) and could never ask me to leave my fianc. But I know that once he gets his confidence back, things will be wonderful. In Too Deep MISS DEEP! GOOD GOD! What a muck heap! What I have to say wont be pleasant, but I want to prove myself your friend and tell you a few truths while theres still time: Return the ring, give the car back, and marry the wedding planner. He/she is the only one coming out ahead in this mess. Or, if not the wedding planner, as you are a young lady who must at some point marry somebodytake a sabbatical. Call off the wedding. I know youre frightened of causing pain to two honorable fellows (and I suspect you were slimed by the American Wedding Industrial Complex before you even knew it was happening), but youre being brutal to the man you love and cruel to the man you dont. Get out of their beds! Put an end to your fiancs hopes now. You cant think

Tormented? Driven witless? Whipsawed by confusion?

WEDDING CRASHING

straight unless you are the confident one and able to speak the truth from your heart.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE

ways: Recently when it happened, I told the guy, Keep your hands to yourself! and he lost interest. And when a second guy did it, I pretended his hands werent on me and he stayed interested. What should I do? After-Hours Etiquette Girl AFTER-HOURS, GIRL: Piffle! You dont go to clubs for the etiquette. You go to clubs to be playful. You go to clubs to be daring. You go to clubs to be indecorous in the dark. Of course, if a dude starts plucking at you like youre a viola, fie! fie! Give him a knee in the groin. But if you like a lad? And he shoots his arm about you and starts playing patty-cake on your posterior? Reach around, clasp his hand, smile into his eyes, pull his hand off, andhold it. Entwine your fingers with his. This move is so disarming, its practically kinky. But really now, come on. If a chap in a club doesnt put his arm around you, nestle in to you rakishly like hes leaning on a golf club, drop his voice, talk the most ridiculous nonsense, and run his hand up and down your back so expertly that you discover, when you stagger outside into the moonlight at 2:30 A.M., that you are no longer wearing a bra, then that chap is notjust a moment! Who says its always a chap? If you get a chance to kiss a soft, fragrant girl, do it. You may not get the opportunity again.

DEAR E. JEAN: My new salary makes me nervous. Its so much money, Im scared that Im going to end up blowing it. Im afraid Ill feel too comfortable spending it. How can I avoid losing my head? Nervous Working Girl AW, HELL, WORKING: You should lose your head. A woman who doesnt lose her head when she wins a big new salary is probably too dumb to receive it. I realize this is not the kind of advice any decent columnist would give an ambitious woman, but Auntie Eeee is not decent. After two or three days of blowing it, you must get serious, of course, and have yourself tied to the mast like Ulysses and sail by Bergdorfs without going insidebut a new salary? Its to be enjoyed, else why go to work? Then sign up (its free) on Mint.com. Youll be able to view your financial accounts via charts and graphs that will help you set a budget, track your spending, set goals, and organize an investment plan. Im waiting for them to build a new feature where they make us all rich widows without having to marry anyone. P.S. If youre not down with the whole Spend it! Its good for you! philosophy, just forward your salary to me at my mountain cabin, along with a certified check for $1,800. Thats my fee for splurging and enjoying your money.

SAY NO TO DUDEGOODERS

DEAR E. JEAN: Whats the club etiquette when an attractive guy moves in close and starts petting my hips 10 minutes after he introduces himself to me? Im not a prude, but Id like to at least know a guy before he feels me up! Should I tell him off? Ive tried both

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE II

DEAR E. JEAN: What would you say if I told you that the man I love is bankrupt? What if I told you that his bankruptcy was due to professional incompetence, that he has no signs of income, and that he cheated on me for six months till I took him to a therapist and made him stop? E. Jean, what would you say if I told you this same guy can be loving, good in bed, and excellent at household chores and that Ive asked him to move in with me? I make plenty of money for two (Im in the one percent), but I have three kids to put

268 READER Advice

You can watch videos, write with anonymity, and exchange genius tips on Advice Vixens at AskEJean.com. And if youre in need of a mystery date: Tawkify.com.

Gregg Delman (styling by Christian Stroble; hair by Eduardo Carrasco at Ford Artists NYC; makeup by Sylwia Rakowska at Ford Artists NYC)

through college. Am I being stupid about letting him move in? Or just petty about money? Mother-in-Love

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keeps asking how his friends tutelage is helping in my job search. Should I tell my grandfather the truth? Ive opted to block it out entirely, but do you think I should use the man as a reference? Mortified by the Whole Episode MISS MORTIFIED, MY LUV: Im sorry this happened to you, Miss Mort. Every feeling of duty, honor, and trust is wounded by this chump. Yet his stunt so perfectly mirrors what goes on in the real business world, this skirmish on the front lines was better career preparation than a $400 PhD seminar.

BEWARE, MOTHER! Youre turning into a dreaded Dude Philanthropist. This is a benevolent profession chockfull of ladies who have a genius for charity and a letch for losers. Show a Dude Philanthropist an attractive asshole whos half-good in bed and who unloads the dishwasher once a month, and she will open her house, her heart, her legs, and her bank accounts. Auntie Eeee has no truck with Dude-

Then we married, had a baby, the fluffy love phase ended, and simply getting a good nights sleep became the goal. Now that our daughter is older, were still not heating up. Heres the thing: He touches me like hes afraid Im going to slap his hand away. Its always very tentative, and its starting to turn me off! Ive always loved sexually aggressive men. Ive told him on more than one occasion that Id just like him to grab me, but he wont. Hes a true man and gives me everything I need, but this area could use some improvement. How do I tell him in such a way he gets the pointbut without hurting his feelings? Im his wife, for Gods sakes! He should

Q: Am I finished? Im still single at 38 with four Chihuahuas. I want a fulfilling life, so I intend to find connection through volunteering. What groups might I try? A: Phoo! Phoo! No woman is finished until she has taken to mah-jongg and buying $197 holiday frocks for her dogs. You want to try a group? Make it a bevy of bachelors. The clever young matchmakers from ELLE Dating will introduce you: dating.elle.com/elle-matchmaking. Then you and your new beau can volunteer together.
Gooders. Even if you sent this gent to a convent to help with the household chores, Auntie would tell the nuns to run for their lives. Hes a cheat, a liar, and a fuckup who will waste your time, take your money, bed other women, and mangle your childrens idea of right and wrong. Get rid of him. Heres the rule: Never list a reference from a treacherous, three-piece-suited, dickheaded old dipshit. You cant trust him. And to ensure the happiness of any additional young ladies for whom your grandfather may wish to obtain tutelage, tell him when he asks: Yes, Grandfather, your friend was extremely helpful, thank you. I dont wish to shatter your illusions, but he taught me something that all the prestigious educational institutions I attended could not. Namely, that when a powerful man who can promote my career makes multiple passes at me in a coffee shop, I have the courage to stand up and walk out in protest. know he has complete access to do whatever he wants to me! High and Dry MISS HIGH, MY HELIOTROPE: Dont be such a married spinster. Your chap is tentative as a tree frog? Please. Thats a chap who wants to be slapped (or seduced, or teased, orits impossible to guess precisely what movie hes running in his headto play serf and empress? Teddy bear and Miss Miley Cyrus?). Send him a text and ask him. No more of this Virginia Woolf sexless-marriage bullshit. Then text him your damsel-anddemon fantasy. Ring up his office at lunchtime, beg him to come immediately to an address (which will turn out to besurprise!a motel), and when he opens the unlocked door, hell find you handcuffed to the bed wearing nothing but pearls and his fly-fishing boots and whispering that he has complete access to do whatever he wants with you. P.S. If youre not back at that motel the next week playing out his fantasy, Auntie Eeee will think you lack chutzpah, and every woman must be brimming with that.

GERIATRIC PRESSURE

DEAR E. JEAN: Ive recently emerged from academia with a PhD, and now Im looking for a job. Last month my grandfather introduced me to a well-connected friend of his whos in an industry Im passionate about. The friend and I met for coffee. He told me about his experience and offered his advice and help. When we met again to discuss my progress, it became clear from his multiple (explicit!) comments that his motives were not entirely altruistic. I was quite embarrassed and abruptly left the caf. He then e-mailed to say hed spent a sufficient amount of time with me so that I could use him as a reference. I havent told my grandfather what happened, though he

DEAR E. JEAN: Our sex life is in a lull. When my husband and I were dating, we were so hot for each other we couldnt get enough.

HOW TO SEDUCE YOUR HUSBAND

Ask a question! E-mail E.Jean@AskEJean.com or follow her on Twitter @ejeancarroll. Read past columns at ELLE.com/askejean.

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Photographed by Cedric Buchet (styled by Sabina Schreder; hair by Kevin Ryan for Rsession Tools at Art and Commerce; makeup by Fredrik Stambro for Temptu at Streeters; manicure by Alicia Torello at the Wall Group; set design by Philipp Haemmerle Inc.; casting by the Establishment; production by Nex9 Productions; fashion assistants: Natasha Devereux and Ali Rose Vanoverbeke; model: JP at Major Model Management)

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I do not like to perform or work at any level below one hundred percent, our December cover girl, Lea Michele, tells writer Lizzy Goodman. Its sort of a lesson for me to learn in life that sometimes you cant, and thats okay. Its certainly not a sentiment you expect to hear from the go-getting Glee starbut one that is humanly refreshing. This month in ELLEs annual Women in Art package, we celebrate eight art-world luminaries who also liveand workfull throttle, including rhinestone-loving painter Mickalene Thomas, whose late mother threw parties that inspired Better Days, a bar-as-installation that was the hot spot of this years Art Basel, and Marilyn Minter, who will show her signature extreme close-ups of pearl-embellished body parts in all their gritty-glam glory at this months Art Basel Miami Beach. And just in time for that livelife-to-the-fullest time of year, weve got a host of partyready looks, from romantic full skirts to shoes and bags festooned with thousands of crystals. If theres one message these pages hold, its: shine on.
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WOMEN IN ART Talk about giving back: Whether they make art,
sell it, foster it, or fund it, these eight women are driven by passion and profession to give all of us new ways to seeand be seen. By Linda Yablonsky
PHOTOGRAPHED BY FREDERIKE HELWIG STYLED BY SAMIRA NASR CURATED BY CARY LEITZES

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Hair by Sophie Roberts for GHD at Home Agency; makeup by Cyndle Komarovski at the Wall Group; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; Minter wears top, necklace, and boots by Marni; for details, see Shopping Guide

MARILYN MINTER The Erotic Thriller


Marilyn Minter makes big dirty paintings of body parts in extreme close-up. They zero in on glistening red lips dripping with sweat. Or muddy feet in high heels splashed by rain. Or eyelids smacked with glitter. Painted in enamel on slick metal surfacesthe final coat always applied using her fingers Minters pictures infuse the grotesque with the glamorous. That ability to make the repulsive look sexy has won her an audience that continues to growa retrospective of her career will open in 2015 at Contemporary Arts Museum Houston, then travel to other citiesand shes only getting better at it. Back in 1989, Minter took images from cookbooks and painted them so suggestively that she titled the works Food Porn. But for most of her career as an artist with a scarlet streak of feminism, the 65-year-old has subverted prevailing stan-

Minter, photographed at her Manhattan studio with assistant Natalia Yovane, in front of Miami Vice (2013)

dards of beauty. Ive been interested in debasement my whole life, she says. But I dont push boundaries on purposeits just how I see, and I want to see real people. Whats wrong with not having a face-lift? She riffs on pornography and fashion, both powerful forces in our culture, she says. Im reflecting the time I live in. Its not interpretation. (Her own fashion tends toward Marni, partly because the brands SoHo shop is across the street from the loft Minter shares with her partner of 22 years, husband Bill Miller, a retired financial adviser.) This month, you can just make out the mouths filled with pearls in the paintings shes showing at Art Basel Miami Beach. They look like smears under wet glass that shes wiped off. The glass is an illusion that gives you distance, she says. Sometimes theres more information in an indirect look.
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Mehretu, photographed with untitled works in progress at her Chelsea, NYC, studio

JULIE MEHRETU The Monument Maker


In September, Julie Mehretu was in Moscow to show, among other pieces, a 24-foot-long abstract painting. Its mostly white, yet quite eventful, shot through with inky flares, charging vectors, meandering loops, and staccato daubs of dark paint interrupted by washes of bright color. Its a glorious, complex puzzle; standing before it is a little like walking into speeding traffic. Like most of her work, the painting suggests the topography and temperature of a large, densely populated city. Its based on the architecture of Cairos Tahrir Square, the Acne jeans clad 43-year-old explains, before taking another trip, this time to escort one of the two young children she has with the artist Jessica Rankin to the bathroom of the familys Harlem carriage house. The match with Rankin is a creative project itself, she says. A relationship with two artists is its own making.
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Since 2000, when her work had its first major public appearance, in a group show at MoMA PS1, Mehretus career has been meteoricor it would be, if her paintings didnt take so long to make. Mural, commissioned by Goldman Sachs for the lobby of its Lower Manhattan tower, is enormous for a painting23 by 80 feetand required three years to complete. While her art is distinctly urban, Mehretu grew up in leafy East Lansing, Michigan, after her Ethiopian father and American mother immigrated from Addis Ababa when she was six. February will find her at the first Cartagena, Colombia, biennial, showing the gray paintings currently taking shape in her studio. Might they reference that citys troubled history? I consider everything political, she says. I dont see how you can live socially without participating politically.

Hair by Sophie Roberts for GHD at Home Agency; makeup by Cyndle Komarovski at the Wall Group; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; Mehretu wears her own clothing and accessories

Dalrymple at home in Chelsea, NYC

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Hair by Brian Buenaventura for Phyto at Management Artists; makeup by Ayami Nishimura for Make Up For Ever; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; Dalrymple wears her own clothing and accessories

CLARISSA DALRYMPLE The Divining Rod


Curious about new directions in contemporary art? Consult Clarissa Dalrymple. Over the past 30 years, the British-born independent curator and former New York gallerist has exhibited almost psychic tendencies when it comes to alerting the rest of the world to rising stars. In 1983, she cofounded the legendary Cable Gallery at SoHos outer limit; when it closed five years later, she kept going, organizing shows around the world and becoming a backstage mother to manyMatthew Barney, Jorge Pardo, and Nancy Rubins among them. She gave Damien Hirst an early crack at America; Hirst, in turn, introduced her to the rest of his generation of YBAs. Recently, Dalrymple took young artists Ryan Sullivan and Bree Ruais under her tireless wingwatch outand Christopher Wool, whose first show was at Cable in 1984, is now the subject of a career survey at the Guggenheim. Its so ridiculous, she says. Theyve all become successful from the get-go. Yet she has remained virtually underground, more visionary than businesswoman. Its not about having an eye for art, says Dalrymple, sexy at 72 and a grandmother eight times over. Its being sensitive to the phenomenology of the time. What excites her antenna isnt just the image or the material of an artwork, she says, but the need for something to have life and be both witty and intense. Which is a pretty accurate description of Dalrymples own native glamour and aristocratic carriage. For this portrait, shot in her pocket roof garden in Chelsea, she wore a John Galliano dress from Century 21. It was $400, she says. More than Ive ever spent on anything.
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Lvy, at her gallery on Manhattans Upper East Side, with Lucio Fontanas Concetto Spaziale, Attese (1957)

DOMINIQUE LVY The Discerning Eye


In September, Dominique Lvy opened her new triplex gallery on Madison Avenue to thunderous silenceas planned. To celebrate Audible Presence: Lucio Fontana, Yves Klein, Cy Twombly, her inaugural exhibition, she presented a radical 1949 symphony by Klein that calls for a 70-member chorus and orchestra to hold a single tone for 20 minutes and then play silence for another 20. In the hushed tones of a woman whos been at the top of her game so long that she doesnt need to shout about it, Lvy describes the performance as exceptional and a pleasure. As a dealer specializing in twentieth-century and postwar art, and as a collector of the new, she is as consumed by her passions at age 46 as she was at 19 when she curated her first exhibition, in Lausanne, the Swiss city where she grew up. I think you cant look forward without looking back, she says, or back
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without looking forward. Her personal, ahead-of-the-curve collection lives in the Upper East Side home she shares with film and theater producer Dorothy Berwin and their three sons. In 1999, its first year, the international private sales department Lvy oversaw for Christies had a turnover of $100 million. And in 2013, after seven years as the L in blue-chip gallery L&M Arts, she decided to open her own shop. I was raised by a businessman to be a businesswoman, she says of her late father, a currency trader. I cherish partnership but I love working alone. You take all the risks but you get all of the pleasure. Currently on view at Lvys gallery are 70s and 80s works by Ukrainian photographer Boris Mikhailov, to be followed this spring by seven decades of painting by French artist Pierre Soulages. Hes 93, she says, but totally contemporary.

Hair by Sophie Roberts for GHD at Home Agency; makeup by Cyndle Komarovski at the Wall Group; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; Lvy wears her own clothing and jewelry

Thomas, in her Brooklyn Navy Yard studio, with a piece from her Hair Portrait Series (2013)
Hair by Sophie Roberts for GHD at Home Agency; makeup by Cyndle Komarovski at the Wall Group; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; Thomas wears jacket by Comme des Garons, shoes by Churchs, and her own shirt and pants; for details, see Shopping Guide

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MICKALENE THOMAS The Visual Extrovert


Mickalene Thomas is not the sort of artist youll see in paintspattered jeans. Ive been wearing Rick Owens pants for a week, says the Brooklyn-based painter, muralist, photographer, and parent (with her ex, Carmen McLeod) of 15-monthold daughter Junya Rei, named for designers Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. When I sold my first painting, Thomas explains, the Comme des Garons store was the first place I went. That was in the early 2000s, when Thomas, now 42, became known for dazzling portraits of sensual African-American women in wildly patterned surroundings, their makeup and dresses encrusted with the artists signature rhinestones. Her paintings, which now include landscapes and interiors, are based on collages and photos that Thomas shoots, incorporating installations of the vintage furniture, rugs, and textiles shes long collected. My mother and grandmother were really good at reupholstering, Thomas says. I learned a lot. When Thomas was growing up in East Orange, New Jersey, her mother, a onetime model, gave parties to raise money to combat sickle-cell anemia. They inspired Better Days, an art-bar installation that became a popular nightspot during last Junes Art Basel fair. Her mother was also the subject of a short biographical film, Happy Birthday to a Beautiful Woman, the heart-stopper of Thomas 2012 retrospective at the Brooklyn Museum. (HBO picked it up for an upcoming documentary series.) Now shes preparing new paintings for an exhibition in Paris next fall. Will there be rhinestones this time? Yes, and airbrushing and glitter, too, she promises: Im going all out.
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ELLA KRUGLYANSKAYA The Body Politic


I was on the art track from an early age, says Ella Kruglyanskaya, who grew up in Riga, Latvia, and landed in America in 1995. Two years later, she came to New York to study painting at Cooper Union, going on to earn a graduate degree in the subject from Yale. Now 35, she makes restless, cartoony paintings that depict vixens in slightly ridiculous situations, their dresses often appointed with eyes and mouths. Sometimes they seem at odds with one another, frenemies expressing envy, outrage, or resentment. Often, they are partly obscured by angry black lines or Xs, as if the artist herself had turned against them and wanted to make them disappear. Im trying to channel some sort of appropriate response to the conditions at hand [for women], Kruglyanskaya says. And a hysterical response seems appropriate. Its tonguein-cheek feminism. Among her preoccupations are double meanings, she says. What I like about a cartoon is that you can make a visual puna fish that looks like a penis. What it is, and what you read into it, thats what interests me. In 2011, a solo show at the nonprofit White Columns gallery led to a gig at Barneys, where a suite of her paintingstrapezoids of busty, knock-kneed womenrocked the stores windows. Shows at Salon 94 and the cutting-edge Gavin Browns Enterprise followed, and a current exhibition at NYCs East Village microgallery Oko confirms a star on the rise. In April, London will get wind of her at the citys Studio Voltaire project space. Here, in a LWren Scott dress, standing between two recent paintings, she looks vaguely like one of her curvaceous subjects. As she puts it, Its nice to have attention.
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Hair by Brian Buenaventura for Phyto at Management Artists; makeup by Ayami Nishimura for Make Up For Ever; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; Kruglyanskaya wears dress by LWren Scott and shoes by Aperla Paris; for details, see Shopping Guide

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Kruglyanskaya, at her studio in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, with untitled recent works

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Greenberg Rohatyn, at Salon 94s Upper East Side space, with pieces from the Sand Chair series by Kueng Caputo

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JEANNE GREENBERG ROHATYN The Gravitational Force


As the daughter of a St. Louis art dealer, Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn came naturally to the trade. Ive been working since high school to collect, says the svelte 46-year-old gallerist. I had different kinds of jobs. Then I realized the easiest was to become a dealer. Collector, dealer, mother of three, wife to financier Nicolas Rohatynand judge on the first season of Bravo reality show Work of ArtGreenberg Rohatyn is a powerhouse on the New York art scene. Her Salon 94 empire has three locales: two on the Lower East Side (she describes one as rustic, the other as like a crypt), and the thirdcurrently featuring jewelry and mobiles by Alexander Calder in displays commissioned from contemporary artistson the ground floor of her Upper East Side townhouse, a former orphanage adapted by architect Rafael Violy.
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Thats where Greenberg Rohatyn stood for her portrait, dressed in Saint Laurent (my uniform) and perched atop a stool made of cast and dyed sand by the young Swiss design team Kueng Caputo. She surrounds herself with artists who share her taste for elemental design and provocative imagery. They include Rick Owens (for whom she produces and shows furniture), Laurie Simmons, Huma Bhabha, Lorna Simpson, and Terry Adkins, whose sculpture is at Salon 94 Bowery (the crypt) this month. If running three galleries wasnt enough, she also participates in seven art fairs a year, chairs the Performa biennial board, and advises private clients (last summer, she cast Jay Zs Marina Abramoviinspired Picasso Baby video). My life has become invested in art beyond the simple transaction of selling to buy, she says. If you dont take risks, nothing changes.

Hair by Brian Buenaventura for Phyto at Management Artists; makeup by Ayami Nishimura for Make Up For Ever; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; Greenberg Rohatyn wears suit and shirt by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane and shoes by Pierre Hardy; for details, see Shopping Guide

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Hair by Sophie Roberts for GHD at Home Agency; makeup by Cyndle Komarovski at the Wall Group; styling assistant: Yashua Simmons; hair assistant: Cameron Rains; produced by Andrew Schufman at Art Department; de Gunzburg wears top and skirt by Lanvin, watch by Bulgari, shoes by Manolo Blahnik, and her own jewelry; for details, see Shopping Guide

NATHALIE DE GUNZBURG The Believer


In 2006, when philanthropist and collector Nathalie de Gunzburg became chairman of its board, the Dia Art Foundation had taken a series of hits: Its director and its chairman (also a major donor) had just resigned, and the Chelsea space for its influential, yearlong exhibitions had been closed for two years. That left the petite de Gunzburg to oversee the search for a new site, a new director, and the millions of dollars needed to maintain the institutions nearly 300,000-square-foot museum in Beacon, New York, as well as its permanent art installations in New York City, the Hamptons, New Mexico, Utah, and Kassel, Germany. It was very challenging, de Gunzburg admits. But Dia is unique. Its about the art and the artist, and its our duty to maintain their work so its seen by many generations. De Gunzburg had bought her first piece at 18, a really ugly

De Gunzburg, at the upcoming Dia project space, Chelsea, NYC

watercolor that I thought was gorgeous, she says, laughing. She moved to New York from Paris 15 years ago, after marrying investor Charles de Gunzburg. Eventually, her taste for 60s and 70s minimalist art led her to Dia, which presents artworks from those decades up to the present by the likes of Richard Serra, Donald Judd, and Dan Flavin, while maintaining earthworks by Walter De Maria and Robert Smithson, the artist who created Spiral Jetty in Utahs Great Salt Lake. With Dias current director, Philippe Vergne, de Gunzburg has succeeded in acquiring new artworks and a site in NYCs Chelsea; shes photographed here in the raw space, where construction is slated to begin next year. When I arrived from France, I was blown away by the level of philanthropy, she says. In Europe, the state pays for everything.
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BRA VE HEART
Silk jumpsuit, price on request, cotton belt, $1,350, both, BALMAIN, collection at Maxfield, L.A. Vermeil necklace, $395, bracelet, $345, both, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE . Gold-plated brass ring, FALLON, $110. Metallic leather pumps, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, $625.

Lea Michele was living her dream as Glees resident drama queen, dating the quarterback on-screen and off. Then, Cory Monteiths tragic death shattered her world. She opens up to Lizzy Goodman about love, mourning through music, and finding strength in Corys legacy
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Embellished leather bomber jacket, HOUSE OF HOLLAND, $440, collection at openingceremony .us. Jacquard bra top, JASON WU, $1,200. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Quilted plong dress, TOM FORD, price on request, at Tom Ford, NYC. Vermeil necklaces, both, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE , $395$595.

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Tweed bomber jacket, PRABAL GURUNG, $4,595, to special order at Barneys New York. Tweed denim bra top, PETER SOM , $595. Denim shorts, EMILIO PUCCI, price on request. Vintage metallic helmet, from LETSTIMETRAVEL.ETSY.COM , $75. Metallic leather pumps, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE , $875. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Quilted plong dress, price on request, leather and net-lace boots, $3,600, all, TOM FORD, at Tom Ford, NYC. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Cory Monteith and Leah Michele were by some superficial measures an odd couple. He was the big-hearted Canadian, a relatively late bloomer, by Hollywood standardsshe was the born-for-the-stage Jersey-girl striver. He was laid-back and gentle, she was focused and scrappy (she also happened to be a foot shorter than him). But by other measures, it made perfect sense. On Glee, when Monteiths affable all-American Finn Hudson fell for Micheles tightly wound Rachel Berry, he suddenly seemed brighter, and she warmer and more human. And a version of the same was true in real life. Though Monteith and Michele were of course not their characters, there was enough obvious overlap that when their offscreen romance began showing up in the tabloids, the Glee fans watchingand there were manyfound them both a bit shinier and also more relatable. Real love has that effect: One person smooths out the others rough edges. Somehow, the seeming improbability of the Monteith/ Michele union only added to the sense of communal grief when the actor died in July at age 31, alone in a Vancouver hotel room, of an apparent drug overdose. A lighthouse doesnt save the ships; it doesnt go out and rescue them, its just this pillar that helps to guide people home, says Michele three months later. The superpetite 5'3" actress is dressed in track pants and a black T-shirt, her bare feet tucked under her on a patio chair outside by the pool at her modest, airy West Hollywood home. Someone once told me that, and I love the image. Lately, Ive been using it as a guiding metaphor. Exactly what the metaphor stands for isnt immediately clear: Is she the lighthouse? Is home simply a safe haven? But it seems

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untitled solo record into 2014. Its very hard, she says, shaking her head. And you have to be very strong to come out of this alive, but I think by doing the best for myself, by showing that you dont have to lose yourself, maybe someone else will feel some sort of strength or comfort.

When we first met William McKinley Highs football captain, no one would have suspected the clean-cut actor playing him had a drug problem. Monteith was raised in Victoria, British Columbia, mostly by his mother, an interior decorator. His parents split when he was seven, and Monteith didnt see much of his dad, who was in the military. By 13, the actor was using drugs and alcohol; by 16, he was out of control, he told Parade in 2011, into anything and everything, and as much as possible of it. He never finished high school, and after an intervention by friends and family, Monteith first went to rehab at 19. It wasnt until years later, when he was caught stealing money from a family member to feed his habit, that he committed to getting his life together. He worked as a roofer, drove a school bus, was a Walmart greeter, and eventually started taking acting classes. Then, a video he made of himself drumming on Tupperware with pencils in his kitchen got him cast on Glee; it was his first big acting job. Though four years his junior, Michele was by that point already a veteran performer, having been on Broadway since childhood. An award-winning role as Wendla in the Tonywinning rock musical Spring Awakening had christened her a bona fide star. Plus, everyone knew Glee had been developed with Michele in mind. Monteith liked to talk about how intimi-

I CAN ONLY IMAGINE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE FROM THE OUTSIDE.


to be her way of describing what shes searching for, and perhaps what she tried to be for Monteith, before it was too late. I never thought I would be in this position in my whole life, she continues, both hands wrapped around a mug of tea. Glee was on hiatus when Monteith died, but now the fifth season is under way and Michele finds herself mourning a private loss in public. In the shows recently aired tribute, Glee creator Ryan Murphy and his team chose not to explain how Monteiths character, Finn, died, opting instead to bring together members of the glee club, past and present, to mourn through song. Throughout the episode, the emotional suffering of the characters obviously reflects that of the actors themselves. And none more so than Micheleever the professional, she recites Rachel Berrys scripted dialogue, but the tears seem real. Her rendition of Bob Dylans Make You Feel My Love resonates with genuine heartbreak. Before Cory passed away, Lea was definitely the leader on set, and so was Cory, says Jane Lynch, who plays conniving cheerleading coach Sue Sylvester. She has been an absolute trouper. Shes the reason were back at work right now instead of taking a season off. In addition to the pressure of helping to keep the show together, Michele feels the pressure of knowing legions of grieving Glee fans read into her every move: Is she already dating again? Could their relationship have been a publicity stunt all along? Now that I am in this position, you can choose to rise, and thats what Im going to try to do, she says. I know that Cory would want nothing more than for me to take this situation and use it to help people. I dont know if I will. I dont know how. So far, Micheles response has been to just give herself time; the 27-year-old actress pushed back the release of her as-of-yet dated he felt by her accomplishments and how nervous he was to meet her, a thought that still makes Michele smile. From the minute I met Cory, I was like, This is the most handsome man Ive ever seen in my whole life, she remembers. The pair briefly dated at the beginning of Glee, but no one really caught on, the actress says. They were both adjusting to celebrity life in Los Angeles, being followed by paparazzi and obsessed over by some 10 million viewers, whod fallen in love with their show overnight. Together, they became a spokescouple for the increasingly powerful Glee brand. Since its debut, the show has become a cross-genre phenomenon. In addition to winning six Emmys and four Golden Globes, the shows soundtracks have sold more than 13 million copies worldwide, helping to fuel several Glee Live! tours, in which Monteith and Michele performed. By marrying over-the-top musical numbers with issues of sexual confusion, racial conflict, and the awkwardness of adolescence, the show also reshaped what network television could be. By late 2011, Monteith and Michele were officially a couple. One day we just looked at each other and we were like, You wanna do this? We knew. But by March of 2013, Monteith was back in rehab, and his history with drugs became public. Michele is circumspect about what she knew when, and how she tried to help. I can only imagine what it looks like from the outside, she allows. It was such a short period of time between when people found out to, you know, July, but there are so many personal aspects of this whole journey that people are not invited to know. We had a full life, and that had lots of different details that will be ours forever, for only us to know. Asked if she was worried about him, her response is quick. Of course, she says. Who wouldnt be worried?
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Considering her well-documented focus and ambition and those extraordinary pipesMichele might strike you as someone who was a musical-theater-fanatic kid, the kind who breaks into Annie songs at the dinner table. In fact, she didnt even sing as a child. Born Lea Sarfati, the actress was definitely a natural performer, but, always doing voices and accents, she seemed more like a comedian than a vocalist. When Michele was in elementary school, her mom drove another girl to an open call for Les Misrables as a favor, and eight-year-old Lea, on a whim, decided to audition as well. My mom was like, What do you mean? You dont sing! This is for Broadway! Miraculously, she got the part of Young Cosettehaving never taken a voice lesson or performed professionally in her life. Dont ever let me stop. I want to do this for the rest of my life, she told her parents after her first performance. I just knew. And that comes with such relief. You dont have this internal agita what should I do with my life?!you can just go forward 100 percent. My parents were encouraging but chill, she says. There was none of that pageant show-pony perform for us thing. My family respects that this is really, truly what I love, but its also my job. When Im with them, Im Lea Sarfati. Micheles parents met in their Bronx neighborhood when they were barely teenagers. He was Jewish; she was an Italian Catholic. Their courtship was not quite accepted, Michele says, but theyve been together for, like, a hundred years. Its a blessing to come from such great, strong, solid parents who are still together, Michele says. But its also a little bit like, Whoa, they achieved itcan I as well? They raised Michele in Tenafly, New Jersey, where her dad worked in a deli and her

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she recalls. I knew it was magic. The bet paid off: Once we finally performed the show Off-Broadway, everything was like, bam, bam, bam: Off-Broadway, Broadway, reviews, eight Tony Awardswe checked every box of what makes a successful Broadway show. And Micheles perfect pitch, arresting stage presence, and what Murphy has called her once-in-ageneration voice were no small part of what set the show apart. Michele says her secret weapon has long been her capacity to maintain some balance in an off-kilter world. These days shes a kundalini yoga devotee with a bathroom full of holistic soaks and health-nut supplements. The actress hopes to communicate that spiritual side to her young fans with Brunette Ambition, a book out next May, which will tell girls that its possible to live a really fun lifestyle thats still grounded and centered. Part how-to, part memoir, the book will be made up of recipes, stories about her family, and, of course, a chapter on Glee. A trend with Lea is that moments of uncertainty always end up reaping her great rewards, says her best friend, Jonathan Groff, who has known Michele since he played her love interest in Spring Awakening. (Groff also guest starred as rival Jesse St. James on Glee.) When something happens to her and a feeling comes up, she does not go above it, below it, or around it. She always goes through it, completely, and experiences it. Groff is responsible for having introduced Michele to Ryan Murphy. I was told my whole life that I would never do television because my look was too ethnic, says Michele in a tone more of pragmatism than resentment. I was 100 percent focused and ready to be the best in the world that I was in. She

I WAS TOLD MY WHOLE LIFE I WOULD NEVER DO TELEVISION BECAUSE I WAS TOO ETHNIC.
mom was a nurse. An only child, she got their full attention. Both of my parents are such hard workers, the actress says. But my father, specifically, is the most active, perfectionist, on-it multitasker in the world. I get that ability to really focus, that drive, from him. I always wanted to show them that I was on point and professional, ever since I was a kid. After Les Mis, she continued to work steadily on Broadway, next appearing as Jewish immigrant Tatehs daughter, the face of innocence and promise, in the original cast of Ragtime. At high school in New Jersey, I was on the volleyball team, I was on the debate team, I went to summer camp, I went to my prom, I was at my graduation, I was at spring break, she remembers proudly. I had a normal school experience. Or as normal as it could have been, heading off to 42nd Street after school when most kids were going to soccer practice. When Michele was 14, she began participating in readings and workshops for a new musical. Spring Awakening was set in nineteenth-century Germany but featured rowdy pop rock by 90s singer-songwriter Duncan Sheik; the show preceded the wash of rock musicals weve seen since (American Idiot, Rock of Ages, Spiderman: Turn Off the Dark). It was groundbreaking, not only for its anachronistic fusion of place, time, and musical genre, but also for its brave exploration of adolescent sexual desire and the costs of suppressing it, themes that would later echo on an even bigger cultural stage with Glee. Michele knew Spring Awakening was the perfect launching pad for her own blend of talentsthe classic chipper musical-theater songand-dance plus the magnificently moody, grown-up voice and physicality. The show took five years to launch, and Michele was there the whole way. I was sitting on this golden egg,
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figured shed do Broadway shows for the rest of her life and maybe come out to L.A. for the odd bit part, like a little carcrash victim on Greys Anatomy, she says. And then her plans came undone. All at once, her boyfriend broke up with her (Hes just like, Were done ) and Spring Awakenings stagehands went on strike, shutting down the show. Im like, Okay, this is the universe starting to do some crazy shit, she says. Michele called Groff, who was in L.A. working on a pilot. He persuaded her to fly to California immediately. A few days later, she and Groff met Murphy for dinner at the Chateau Marmont, and Rachel Berry was born. Shed been bemoaning the fact that there were no roles for girls like her, not a lot of musical romantic-comedy roles, Murphy remembers. I really wrote the role for her, to give her something where she could really strut her stuff. Rachel Berry was one of two Glee parts written specifically for a particular actor; the other was Lynchs Sue Sylvester. They shot the pilot less than a year later, and since then Michele has been nominated for two Golden Globes and an Emmy. Leas the heart of the show, says Murphy. Her character and her spirit embody what the show is about, which is first times and discoveries and the trajectory that you take on your way to becoming a star. Thats all very intertwined with Lea and her persona. In some ways, though, Michele is too closely aligned with her character. Of course the real woman is a much more fully drawn and complex person than the one she plays on TVbut its not hard to see how her personality can be misread as difficult. Michele is exacting. She likes things a certain waytake, for example, the careful neatness of her home, the encyclopedic list of recommendations she rattles off for great L.A. sushi
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PVC and mesh bomber jacket, KTZ, price on request, collection at kokontozai.co.uk. Silk organza strapless top and bottom, both, CAROLINA HERRERA , price on request (sold as a set). Vermeil necklace, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE , $395. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Cropped cotton pullover, DEREK LAM , $550, collection at Barneys New York. Bonded stretch-jersey pants, THREEASFOUR , $988. Sunglasses, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM , price on request. Vintage Chanel gold-plated metal and leather belt, from DEPUIS1924.COM, price on request. Laminated leather sandals, SERGIO ROSSI, $1,195. For details, see Shopping Guide.
Hair by Harry Josh at HarryJosh.com; makeup by Polly Osmond for Exposure NY; manicure by Ashlie Johnson for the Wall Group; prop styling by Steve Halterman for Stardust Brands; production by Cat Farber for Portfolio One; fashion assistant: Sarah Schussheim

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From left: Embroidered cotton dress, $4,150, cashmere and silk shirt, $1,580, goatskin shoulder bag, $3,280, all, BOTTEGA VENETA , at Bottega Veneta boutiques nationwide. Crystal bracelet, LANVIN, $2,810. Metal and enamel bracelet, FENDI, $550. Lambskin and metal gloves, CHANEL, price on request. Cotton socks, PRADA , $60. Patent leather boots, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $1,550. Stylists own necklace and scarf. Cotton dress, BOTTEGA VENETA, $1,350, visit bottegaveneta.com. Vintage cotton scarf, from WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND, $78. Crystal necklace, LANVIN, $2,970. Metal and strass bracelet, $1,175, cuff, $4,050, lambskin and metal gloves, $900, all, CHANEL . Rabbit and rhodium cuff, ALEXIS BITTAR, $250. Gold-plated brass bracelets, $250$425, silver-plated brass bracelet, $175, all, ROBERT LEE MORRIS. Nylon and elastane tights, WOLFORD, $48. Stylists own shirt.

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Silk jumpsuit, VALENTINO, $2,790, at Valentino boutiques nationwide. Crystal earrings, ALEXIS BITTAR, $850. Raccoon scarf, ADRIENNE LANDAU, $395. Lambskin gloves, CHANEL, $875. Nylon and spandex tights, FOGAL , $43. Leather and suede flats, EMPORIO ARMANI, $895. Stylists own hat and scarf. For details, see Shopping Guide.

ON THE ROAD
This season, opt for streetsmart sportif classics think crisp button-downs and full skirtspaired with masculine accents such as oversize blazers and tailored trousers
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Acetate-rayon blend blazer, $2,250, silk shirt, $1,495, trousers, $1,295, all, MICHAEL KORS, at select Michael Kors stores nationwide. Sunglasses, ELECTRIC , $170. Leather boots, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $1,350. Stylists own fur coat.

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Flannel jacket, $3,750, silk-blend vest, $2,700, both, CHANEL , at select Chanel boutiques nationwide. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Beauty Secret: For a smooth flip, rub PANTENE Pro-V Texturizing Sculpting Wax between palms and apply to the ends of hair. From left: Silk gabardine jacket, $1,990, silk shirt, $870, cotton socks, $60, all, PRADA , visit prada.com. Vintage Levis corduroy jeans, $98, cotton scarf, $78, both, from WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND. Leather boot, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $1,350. Silk sable dress, PRADA , price on request, at select Prada boutiques. Sunglasses, GIORGIO ARMANI, $450. Leather and pearl bracelet, VALENTINO GARAVANI, $745. Leather and metal clutch, MICHAEL KORS, $895. Nylon and spandex tights, FOGAL, $43. Leather platform brogues, ROBERT CLERGERIE, $545. Stylists own hat.

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Neoprene-bonded cashmere coat, $2,995, cotton and lace skirt, $1,095, both, BURBERRY PRORSUM , visit burberry.com. Vintage Lee jacket (worn underneath), from WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND, $178. Lambskin and metal gloves, CHANEL , $875. Leather handbag, GUCCI, $1,350. Nylon and spandex tights, FOGAL, $43. Patent leather boots, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $1,150. Stylists own hat. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Twill tweed and leather jacket, $4,900, pants, $3,550, both, LOUIS VUITTON, at select Louis Vuitton stores nationwide. Raccoon scarf, ADRIENNE LANDAU, $395. Metal chain necklace, $3,100, metal and strass belt, $3,750, lambskin and metal gloves, price on request, all, CHANEL. Metal pendant necklace, LANVIN, $2,330. Leather and pearl bracelet, VALENTINO GARAVANI, $745. Vintage Acme leather boots, from WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND, $350. Stylists own turtleneck and hat.

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Cotton shirt, $665, lambskinleather skirt, $2,130, both, DSQUARED, collection at Sharis Place, Greenvale, NY. Sunglasses, GIORGIO ARMANI, $300. Goatfur and gunmetal cuff; rabbit and rhodium cuff, both, ALEXIS BITTAR , $250 each. Nylon and elastane tights, WOLFORD, $48. Silk and suede sneakers, PRADA, price on request. For details, see Shopping Guide.
Hair by Kevin Ryan for Rsession Tools at Art and Commerce; makeup by Fredrik Stambro for Temptu at Streeters; manicure by Alicia Torello at the Wall Group; set design by Philipp Haemmerle Inc.; casting by the Establishment; production by Nex9 Productions; fashion assistants: Natasha Devereux and Ali Rose Vanoverbeke; models: Alyosha at Ford Models and JP at Major Model Management

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SENSEI SENSIBILITY
Details straight from the dojosuch as obi belts and relaxed, loose pantsmake for a sophisticated revamp of the Bruce Lee look
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID BELLEMERE STYLED BY SAMIRA NASR

Fox vest, DEREK LAM , price on request, collection at Derek Lam, NYC. Silk satin bralette, $225, satin track shorts, $230, both, T BY ALEXANDER WANG. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO. Cotton belt, DRAGON, $7. Leather sandals, CLINE , $790. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Python bomber jacket, REED KRAKOFF, $4,990, visit reedkrakoff .com. Stretch-nylon swim top, HERV LGER BY MAX AZRIA , $640 (for set, bottom not shown). Leather gauchos, ADAM LIPPES, $1,900. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO. Leather sandals, CLINE , $740.

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Organza jacket, $2,700, cloque dress, $4,700, metallic viscose bra, $1,200, briefs, $1,200, all, DIOR , at Dior boutiques nationwide. Cotton belt, DRAGON, $7. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Beauty Secret: For strong brows and glowing cheeks, try Diorshow Brow Styler in Universal Brown and Diorblush in Lucky Pink, both by DIOR. Jacquard jacket, STELLA MCCARTNEY, $2,145, at Stella McCartney, NYC. Satin bralette, T BY ALEXANDER WANG, $225. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO.

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Duchess satin bodice top, $2,290, pique viscose wide-leg trousers, $1,350, both, GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI, collection at Barneys New York. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO. Leather sandals, CLINE , $790. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Leather bra top, price on request, wool-knit leggings, $1,070, both, AZZEDINE ALAA , collection at Ikram, Chicago. Polyurethane cropped trousers, J.W.ANDERSON, $885. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO. Leather sandals, CLINE , $740.

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Cotton top, $995, trousers, $995, both, BALENCIAGA , at Balenciaga, NYC. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO. Leather sandals, ROBERT CLERGERIE , $550. For details, see Shopping Guide.

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Suede top, $1,650, merino ribbed tank, $550, suede wrap skirt, $1,850, all, CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION, at Calvin Klein Collection, NYC. Belt, CLINE , price on request. Silver and diamond earrings, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO., $1,575.

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Python top, price on request, cotton trousers, $1,050, belt, price on request, sandals, $790, all, CLINE , at Cline, NYC. Silver and diamond earrings, $1,575, silver cuffs, $795$1,075, all, ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY & CO. For details, see Shopping Guide.
Hair by David Von Cannon at Streeters; makeup by Ayami Nishimura for Make Up For Ever; manicure by Casey Herman at Kate Ryan for Chanel Beaut; location scouting and production by William Caducci for Urban NYC; casting by the Establishment; model: Ava Smith at Wilhelmina Models; fashion assistant: Yashua Simmons

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STARGAZER
With a brilliant array of colored diamonds and crystals (1,225 on this stiletto, to be exact)in shades from pink to champagnethis holiday season, evening shoes and bags shine more brightly than Cinderellas glass slipper
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAN FORBES STYLED BY MARIA DUEAS JACOBS

Crystal and Plexiglas slingback, GIANVITO ROSSI, $1,605, collection at Barneys New York. Crystal minaudire, JUDITH LEIBER COUTURE , $3,995, collection at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide. Crystal-studded acrylic box clutch, JIMMY CHOO, $1,995, visit jimmychoo.com.

310

Diamond and white gold necklace, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY, price on request, call 800-550-0005. Strass and goatskin handbag, CHANEL , price on request, at select Chanel boutiques nationwide. For details, see Shopping Guide.

311

Crystal-embellished silk sandal, DOLCE & GABBANA , $895, at select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide. Limited-edition crystalbeaded leather handbag, ROGER VIVIER , price on request, to special order, call 212-861-5371.

312

Diamond and white gold necklace, yellow and white diamond, yellow gold, and platinum ring, both, DE BEERS , prices on request, visit debeers.com. White gold and diamond bracelet, GUCCI FINE JEWELRY, price on request, at select Gucci boutiques nationwide. For details, see Shopping Guide.
Prop stylist: Rachel Haas at Jed Root

313

314

Fashion Spotlight
Hair by Kevin Ryan for Rsession Tools at Art + Commerce; makeup by Ayami Nishimura for Make Up For Ever; manicure by Maki Sakamoto for Chanel Beaut at Kate Ryan; produced by Dan Foley at Jed Root; fashion assistant: Yashua Simmons; casting by the Establishment; models: Kelsey Gerry at DNA; Marina S at The Society; Roberta Narcisco at The Society

THE MASTER
On the occasion of his fiftieth anniversary, Seventh Avenues minence grise talks with Daphne Merkin about his vision of retro-debutante elegancewhich has never looked more modern than now
PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS WHITESIDE STYLED BY SAMIRA NASR

I hate pretty, Oscar de la Renta, whose way with a certain kind of exquisite party frock is second to none, is saying in his charmingly accented English. Its a very empty word. It gives a bad name to beauty. The 81-year-old designer breaks into songI Feel Pretty from West Side Storyto illustrate his point or, perhaps, send it up. One thing this urbane, impeccably dressed man with a permanent twinkle in his eye doesnt do, I quickly discover upon visiting him in his white-on-white offices on West 42nd Street, is take himselfor the world of fashion, for that mattertoo seriously. He mentions coming upon a bunch of his old designs in Barneys vintage department and confesses to finding some of them hideous. Which isnt to say that he doesnt pay meticulous attention to how the clothes drape on his models or who his customers are, just that it is all part of the larger picture show. When I arrive at 2:30 on a weekday afternoon in late September, de la Renta is sitting at a round table near the window, finishing up a delicious-looking repast. There is a box of figs as well as bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar on the table, and the mozzarella and tomatoes on his plate glisten with a farmers-market freshness. I never go out for lunch, he announces, and offers me a drink made of turmeric. Earlier in the day, de la Renta tells me, he attended a global initiative on behalf of elephants, which is a pet cause of his wife, socialite and philanthropist Annette; the Clintons and Kissingers were among those attending. Ever since he arrived on these shores half a century ago, from his native Dominican Republic, having stopped along the way to sketch for Balenciaga and work for Lanvin, the designer has straddled the worlds of high fashion and high society with great ease. Already in 1967, he was described by a journalist as a comet on the American style scene, someone who made clothes for the wives and daughters of rich and powerful men but also moved among the group known as The Beautiful People himself. He sprinkles fabled namesNan Kempner, Gloria Guinness, and Babe Paleyinto the conversation, not to impress (he strikes me as the least snobby of men), but because they come naturally to him. His memories seem vivid but not airbrushed: Not even her husband saw Babe without makeup, he says, chuckling. The remarkable thing about de la Rentawhich explains both his longevity and his relevance to the current red carpet is that, despite his familiarity with the chic women Truman Capote referred to as his Swans, the pocket square he wears in his pin-striped suit, and his wonderfully old-world manners,
From left: Faille bubble-hem dress, $4,490, jeweled-and-embroidered threadwork tulle dress, faille peplum gown, prices on request, crystal rings, $195 each, satin pumps (shown twice), $695 each, all, OSCAR DE LA RENTA , at Oscar de la Renta boutiques nationwide, visit oscardelarenta.com. Designer wears his own clothes.

he is completely of the moment. Fashion, he says, is about the present and the immediate future. I think in terms of now. He is not, to be sure, an advocate of futuristic fantasy: Cardin and his space clothes, he asks almost apologetically, where are they now? But just as importantlyand more impressively, given his own minence grise statushe refuses to indulge in nostalgia. Not for him the backward glance at a vanished era of rule-bound fashion or the bemoaning of the disappearance of a certain kind of formal ladies who lunch dressing. I have seen the emergence of a different customer, a different woman, he says, a hint of pride in his voice. I love to think that I am a much better designer today because I have a better understanding of the customer. She is someone who will choose the red dress over the pink, even if her husband prefers the pink. He seems to delight in the new order of things, right down to the fact that he places women who care about brands on a list of endangered species, adding: There is no loyalty among consumers today. How she dresses is a reflection of who she is. Among the strategies de la Renta has employed to keep himself au courant is keeping younger eyes around him. These include his stepdaughter, Eliza Bolen, who oversees licensing, and her husband, Alex, who heads the company, as well as stylist Alex White and director of communications Erika Bearman the latter better known as the Twitter phenomenon OscarPRGirl. One wouldnt expect a luxury fashion house steeped in tradition to excel at social mediathe designer himself is partial to phone calls and lettersbut this is exactly what has transpired, due largely to Bearmans chatty and likable presence. Her Twitter feed, which has been described as a Carrie-Bradshaw-esque life-stream, includes insider details about the house and select personal tidbits. It doesnt hurt that Bearman is very photogenic and wears de la Rentas designs with a casualness, a kind of benign irony, that undercuts their festive glamouralmost as if she were a debutante posing as a working woman. Finally, there was de la Rentas decision to call on the talents of the controversial John Galliano, who spent three weeks in the designers atelier in January giving input on the fall 2013 collection. For those looking closely, it was possible to detect signs of Gallianos influence: retro-inspired draping and suiting, dramatic hair and makeup, even a whiff of Diors Bar jacket. Given Gallianos unerring instinct for style and currentness, its perhaps not so surprising that de la Renta extended an olive branch to the ostracized younger designer. Hes a nice guy, de la Renta says. Ive known him 30 years. I do believe people deserve a second chance. He feels so repentant. The odd truth is that there is more in common between the Sultan of Suave, as hes been called, and Galliano than not. Both have a sure understanding of cut, an appreciation of fabric, and the sense to know that to stay vibrant couture must follow the consumers lead: Elegance is an old word, de la Renta says. A lot of anonymous girls walking along the street have a style of their own.
315

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation


1. Publication Title: ELLE 2. Publication Number: 0762-0700 3. Filing Date: October 1, 2013 4. Issue Frequency: Monthly 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 12 6. Annual Subscription Price: $15.00 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019; Contact Person: Mary Lynch, 212-649-2000 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Kevin OMalley, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019; Editor: Roberta Myers, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019; Managing Editor: Douglas Baughman, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 10. Owner: Hearst Communications, Inc. Registered office: 1209 Orange Street, Wilmington, DE 19801 Stockholders of Hearst Communications, Inc. are: Hearst Holdings, Inc. Registered office: 1209 Orange Street, Wilmington, DE 19801; CDS Global, Inc. Registered office: 500 East Court Avenue, Des Moines, IA 50309 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None 12. Tax Status: Not applicable 13. Publication Title: ELLE 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2013 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average No. No. Copies Copies Each of Single Issue During Issue Published Preceding Nearest to 12 Months Filing Date a. Total Number of Copies (Net press run) 1,540,867 b. (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertisers proof copies, and exchange copies) 768,759 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertisers proof copies, and exchange copies) n/a (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS 176,977 (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS (e.g., First-Class Mail) n/a c. Total Paid Distribution (Sum of 15b (1), (2), (3), and (4)) 945,736 d. (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies included on PS Form 3541 142,741 (2) Free or Nominal Rate InCounty Copies Included on PS Form 3541 n/a (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS (e.g., First-Class Mail) n/a (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail (Carriers or other means) 14,050 e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (Sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4)) 156,791 f. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and 15e) 1,102,527 g. Copies not Distributed 438,341 h. Total (Sum of 15f and g) 1,540,868 i. Percent Paid (15c divided by 15f times 100) 85.8% 1,578,020

COVERS
Cotton canvas jacket by Ralph Lauren Collection, $2,195, at select Ralph Lauren stores nationwide. Cotton-blend jeans by Frame Denim, $209, collection at Nordstrom stores nationwide. Diamond earrings by Jack Vartanian, $3,900, at Jack Vartanian (NYC). Silver and rose gold necklace by Tiffany & Co., $175, visit tiffany.com. Ruby, mother-ofpearl, and rose gold ring by Pomellato, $1,050, visit pomellato.com or call 800-254-6020. Vintage Chanel metal and leather belt from Depuis1924.com, $800, visit depuis1924.com. Vintage Chanel metal charm and leather belt from Madison Avenue Couture, price on request, visit madisonavenuecouture.com or call 888-MAD-AVEC. Appliqu embroidered dress by Tom Ford, $7,120, at Tom Ford (NYC).

houseofholland.co.uk. Bra top by Jason Wu, visit jasonwustudio.com. PAGE 284: Dress by Tom Ford, $6,190, at Tom Ford (NYC). PAGE 285: Bra top by Peter Som, visit petersom.com. Shorts by Emilio Pucci, at Emilio Pucci (NYC). Vintage helmet from letstimetravel.etsy.com, visit letstimetravel.etsy .com. Pumps by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, at Saint Laurent (NYC). PAGE 286: Dress, $6,190, boots by Tom Ford, at Tom Ford (NYC). Necklace by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, at Saint Laurent (NYC). PAGE 289: Bra top and bottom by Carolina Herrera, at Carolina Herrera (NYC). Necklace by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, at Saint Laurent (NYC). PAGES 290291: Leggings by Threeasfour, collection at Colette (Paris) or visit threeasfour.com. Sunglasses by 3.1 Phillip Lim, visit 31philliplim.com. Vintage Chanel belt from Depuis1924.com, $6,900, visit depuis1924.com. Sandals by Sergio Rossi, at Sergio Rossi (Las Vegas).

THE LOOK
PAGE 137: Jacket, tank, pants, sandals by Gucci, visit gucci.com.

ON THE ROAD
PAGE 292: Dress, shirt, handbag by Bottega Veneta, visit bottegaveneta.com or call 212-371-5511. Bracelet by Lanvin, collection at Tender (Birmingham, MI). Gloves by Chanel, at select Chanel boutiques nationwide, call 800-550-0005. Socks by Prada, at select Prada boutiques nationwide, visit prada.com. Boot by Giuseppe Zanotti Design, at Giuseppe Zanotti Design boutiques nationwide. Dress by Bottega Veneta, at Bottega Veneta boutiques nationwide. Scarf from What Goes Around Comes Around, at What Goes Around Comes Around (NYC). Necklace by Lanvin, at Lanvin (NYC). Gloves, bracelet by Chanel, at select Chanel boutiques nationwide, call 800-550-0005. Cuff by Alexis Bittar, at Alexis Bittar stores nationwide, visit alexisbittar.com. Bracelets by Robert Lee Morris, at Robert Lee Morris (NYC), visit robertleemorris.com. Tights by Wolford, visit wolford.com. PAGE 293: Scarf by Adrienne Landau, collection at Bloomingdales stores nationwide, Bergdorf Goodman (NYC), select Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide, visit shopbop.com. Earrings by Alexis Bittar, at Alexis Bittar stores nationwide, visit alexisbittar.com. Gloves by Chanel, at select Chanel boutiques nationwide, call 800-550-0005. Tights by Fogal, at Fogal (NYC), visit fogal.com. Flats by Emporio Armani, visit armani.com. PAGE 294: Blazer, shirt, trousers by Michael Kors, at select Michael Kors stores nationwide, call 866-709-KORS or visit michaelkors.com. Sunglasses by Electric, visit electricvisual.com. Boot by Giuseppe Zanotti Design, at Giuseppe Zanotti Design boutiques nationwide, visit giuseppezanottidesign.com. PAGE 295: Jacket, vest by Chanel, call 800-5500005. PAGE 296: Jacket, shirt, socks by Prada, at select Prada boutiques nationwide, visit prada.com. Jeans, scarf from What Goes Around Comes Around, at What Goes Around Comes Around (NYC). Boot by Giuseppe Zanotti Design, at Giuseppe Zanotti Design boutiques nationwide. Dress by Prada, visit prada.com. Sunglasses by Giorgio Armani, at select Giorgio Armani boutiques nationwide. Bracelet by Valentino Garavani, at Valentino boutiques nationwide. Clutch by Michael Kors, at select Michael Kors stores nationwide, call 866-709-KORS. Tights by Fogal, at Fogal (NYC), visit fogal.com. Brogues by Robert Clergerie, at Robert Clergerie (NYC, L.A.). PAGE 297: Coat, skirt by Burberry Prorsum, visit burberry.com. Jacket from What Goes Around Comes Around, visit whatgoesaroundnyc.com. Gloves by Chanel, at select Chanel boutiques nationwide, call 800-550-0005. Handbag by Gucci, at select Gucci stores nationwide, visit gucci.com. Tights by Fogal, at Fogal (NYC), visit fogal.com. Boots by Giuseppe Zanotti Design, at select Giuseppe Zanotti Design boutiques nationwide. PAGE 298: Jacket, pants by Louis Vuitton, call 866-VUITTON or visit louisvuitton.com. Scarf by Adrienne Landau, collection at Bloomingdales stores nationwide, Bergdorf Goodman (NYC), select Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide, visit shopbop.com. Necklace, belt, gloves by Chanel, at select Chanel boutiques nationwide, call 800-550-0005. Necklace by Lanvin, at Lanvin (NYC). Bracelet by Valentino Garavani, at Valentino boutiques nationwide. Boots from What Goes Around Comes Around, at What Goes Around Comes Around (NYC). PAGE 299: Cuffs by Alexis Bittar, at Alexis Bittar stores nationwide, visit alexisbittar.com. Sunglasses by Giorgio Armani, at select Giorgio Armani boutiques nationwide. Sneakers by Prada, at select Prada boutiques nationwide, visit prada.com.

TRENDS AND ACCESSORIES


PAGE 138: Skirt by Michael Kors, call 866-709-KORS or visit michaelkors .com. PAGE 140: Swimsuit by Fendi, call 212-759-4646. Ring by Cartier, at select Cartier boutiques nationwide, visit cartier.us. Stacking dishes by Jonathan Adler, at Jonathan Adler stores nationwide. PAGE 146: Sandal by Nicholas Kirkwood, call 646-559-5239. PAGE 148: Tunic by Marc Jacobs, visit marcjacobs.com. Pillows by Marc Jacobs, at Marc Jacobs (NYC). PAGE 150: Slippers by Del Rio London, collection at Hirshleifers (Manhasset, NY). PAGE 153: Watch by Rolex, $25,400, visit rolex.com. Clutch by Giuseppe Zanotti Design, visit giuseppezanottidesign.com. PAGE 154: Cuff by Salvatore Ferragamo, at Salvatore Ferragamo pop-up shop (Beverly Hills). PAGE 156: Sandal by Balenciaga, collection at barneys.com. Sandal by Rupert Sanderson, collection at saksfifthavenue.com. PAGE 158: Sunglasses by Bottega Veneta, call 800-845-6790. PAGE 160: Handbag by Salvatore Ferragamo, at Salvatore Ferragamo pop-up shop (Beverly Hills). PAGE 162: Sandal by Charlotte Olympia, visit charlotteolympia.com. PAGE 166: Watch by Dolce & Gabbana, $16,884, call 877-70-DGUSA or visit dolcegabbana.com. Bracelet by Louis Vuitton Joaillerie, at select Louis Vuitton stores nationwide, visit louisvuitton.com. Chain necklace, $5,450, charm, $9,680 by Aurlie Bidermann Fine Jewelry, collection at The Webster (Miami).

WORKBOOK: GREY LADY


PAGE 168: Pumps by Walter Steiger, call 212-826-7171. PAGE 170: Handbag by Coach, at Coach stores nationwide, call 866-262-2440. Ankle boots by Christian Louboutin, call 312-337-8200. Cuffs by Jemma Wynne, $10,080$11,550, collection at Marissa Collections (Naples, FL).

SHOPS
PAGE 185: Lights by RH, Restoration Hardware, at RH, Restoration Hardware stores nationwide. PAGE 186: Football by Elisabeth Weinstock, collection at Maxfield (L.A.). Headphones, scarf by Herms, call 800-441-4488 or visit hermes.com. Surfboard by Tim Bessell Artist Series Surfboards, $6,400, visit gagosian.com/shop. Dartboard set by Jonathan Adler, visit jonathanadler.com. PAGE 190: Xbox 360 by Ademov/Computer Choppers, visit computer-choppers .com or call 800-882-8062. Clutch by Charlotte Olympia, visit charlotteolympia .com. Scrabble set by Coach, at select Coach stores nationwide. Chopsticks, tea infuser by CB2, at CB2 stores nationwide, visit cb2.com. PAGE 192: Pillows by Jonathan Adler, visit jonathanadler.com. PAGE 194: Necklace by Suzanne Kalan, $11,960, visit fragments.com or call 212-334-9588. Necklace by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., $350,000, call 800-843-3269. Rings, $4,250 $32,200, jewelry box by Marie-Hlne de Taillac, call 212-249-0371. Sweater by GapKids, call 800-GAP-STYLE. Plate by Ralph Lauren Home, at Ralph Lauren Home stores nationwide, call 888-475-7674. Ring by Rina Limor Fine Jewelry, $15,000, at select Neiman Marcus stores nationwide. PAGE 196: Paper clips by Coach, visit coach.com. Luggage tag by Prada, at select Prada boutiques nationwide. Passport covers by Smythson, visit smythson.com. Eye mask by Bottega Veneta, visit bottegaveneta.com. PAGE 198: Brush set by Claudio Riaz, collection at Barneys New York. Detergents by Frette, at Frette (NYC). Caviar scrub by Balenciaga, collection at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide. Sleep set by Charlotte Olympia, visit charlotteolympia.com. Sushi set by The Land of Nod, at The Land of Nod stores nationwide. Comb by Izola, at West Elm (Brooklyn). PAGE 200: Roller-ball perfumes by Nest Fragrances, collection at Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Nordstrom stores. PAGE 202: Watch by Patek Philippe, $54,900, at Patek Philippe (Beverly Hills). Watch by Tourneau, $5,400, at Tourneau stores nationwide. Watch by Herms, $5,700, visit hermes.com. Watch by Audemars Piguet, $39,400, at Audemars Piguet (NYC). Watch by Dior Timepieces, call 866-675-2078. Watch by Omega, $6,100, at Omega boutiques nationwide. Watch by Tag Heuer, visit shop.tagheuer.com or call 201-368-0710. Watch by Timex, visit timex.com. Watch by Michael Kors, at select Michael Kors stores nationwide. PAGE 204: Handbag by Roger Vivier, to special order at Roger Vivier (NYC).

743,531

n/a

235,000 n/a 978,531 138,019 n/a

SENSEI SENSIBILITY
PAGES 300301: Vest by Derek Lam, $14,790, at Derek Lam (NYC), Alothman & Tabiat Fashion (Kuwait). Bralette, shorts by T by Alexander Wang, at Alexander Wang (NYC), visit alexanderwang.com. Belt by Dragon, visit juka.com or call 909-591-9344. Earrings, bracelets by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany.com. Sandals by Cline, at Cline (NYC). PAGE 302: Swim top by Herv Lger by Max Azria, visit herveleger.com. Gauchos by Adam Lippes, collection at net-a-porter.com. Earrings, bracelets by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany.com. Sandals by Cline, at Cline (NYC). PAGE 303: Jacket, dress by Dior, at Dior boutiques nationwide or call 800-929-DIOR. Belt by Dragon, visit juka.com or call 909-591-9344. Earrings, bracelets by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany.com. PAGE 304: Bralette by T by Alexander Wang, at Alexander Wang (NYC), visit alexanderwang.com. Earrings, bracelets by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany.com. PAGE 305: Bodice, trousers by Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, collection at Barneys New York. Earrings, bracelets by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany.com. Sandals by Cline, at Cline (NYC). PAGE 306: Bra top, $5,340, leggings by Azzedine Alaa, collection at Ikram (Chicago). PAGE 307: Earrings, bracelets by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany .com. Sandals by Robert Clergerie, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide, Barneys New York, visit net-a-porter.com. PAGE 308: Earrings by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany.com. Sandals by Cline, at Cline (NYC). PAGE 309: Top, $7,300, pants, belt, sandals by Cline, at Cline (NYC). Earrings, bracelets by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., visit tiffany.com.

n/a 10,350 148,369 1,126,900 451,120 1,578,020 86.8%

MASTERPIECE THEATER
PAGE 271: Jacket, pants by Giorgio Armani, at Giorgio Armani boutiques nationwide. Socks by We Love Colors, visit welovecolors.com. Oxfords by Christian Louboutin, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide.

WOMEN IN ART
PAGE 273: Wool-blend top, $690, metal and polyester necklace, $590, leather boots, $950, by Marni, at Marni boutiques nationwide. PAGE 277: Wool gabardine jacket by Comme des Garons Homme Plus, $1,545, at Barneys New York. Leather oxfords by Churchs, $530, at Churchs (NYC). PAGES 278279: Wool-blend dress by LWren Scott, $1,895, at Barneys New York. Leather pumps by Aperla Paris, $840, collection at editorialist .com. PAGE 280: Blazer, shirt, pants by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, prices on request, similar styles at Saint Laurent (NYC). PAGE 281: Silk blouse, $1,285, wool skirt, $1,680, by Lanvin, similar styles at Lanvin (NYC). Rose gold and diamond watch by Bulgari, $38,400, at Bulgari stores nationwide, visit bulgari.com or call 800-BVLGARI.

STARGAZER
PAGE 310: Box clutch by Jimmy Choo, visit jimmychoo.com. PAGE 311: Necklace by Chanel Fine Jewelry, $1,503,000, at Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques nationwide. Handbag by Chanel, $11,000, call 800-550-0005. PAGE 312: Handbag by Roger Vivier, $25,000, to special order, call 212-8615371. PAGE 313: Bracelet by Gucci Fine Jewelry, visit gucci.com.

16. Publication of Statement of Ownership: (2) If the publication is a general publication, publication of this statement is required. Will be printed in 17. the December-13 issue of this publication. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Kevin OMalley I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

SPOTLIGHT: THE MASTER


PAGE 315: Bubble-hem dress, jewel-embellished embroidered dress, $6,490, peplum gown, $7,690, rings, pumps by Oscar de la Renta, visit oscardelarenta.com, collection at shopbop.com. Prices are approximate. ELLE recommends that merchandise availability be checked with local stores.

BRAVE HEART
PAGE 282: Jumpsuit, $8,400, belt by Balmain, collection at Barneys New York. Necklace by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, at Saint Laurent (NYC). Ring by Fallon, visit fallonjewelry.com. Pumps by Christian Louboutin, at Christian Louboutin (NYC). PAGE 283: Jacket by House of Holland, visit

316 SHOPPING GUIDE

AFRAID TO GO DEEP CONTINUED FROM PAGE 266

surfers seem depressed. The oceans as still as a lake, Andersen tells me. The competition has been canceled, but for me, calm waters means I have no excuse. Unlike the ritzier parts of southern France along the Mediterranean, Biarritz, on the Atlantic, has the raw, unself-conscious feel of a small seaside town. Andersen and I meet at the beach in the afternoon. Im hesitant to go in the ocean, so she suggests we just sit and talk for a bit where the water is shallow and allow the lapping waves to wash over us. I want you to just feel the ocean and its rhythms, she says. With her flaxen blond hair and fit figure, Andersen, who is 44, has a soulful quality about her and bears a striking resemblance to the actress Robin Wright. When she was a kid, her family moved around a lot, finally settling in Ormond Beach, Florida. Her father was an alcoholic who was abusive to Andersen and her brothers. Her mother, like mine, never learned to swim and was always afraid of the ocean. After Andersen learned to surf, the ocean, where she wanted to spend all of her time, formed a rift between her and her family. At 16, after her father became angry and cracked her surfboard, she ran away from home and moved to Huntington Beach, California. She left a note on her pillow informing her parents that she was leaving to become the number-one female surfer in the world; nine years later she did so. As were talking, Im so focused on Andersen that Im startled when a small wave lashes me in the face. Thats another thing: Never turn your back on the ocean, she says. Do you want to walk in a little? Okay, I say, and we go in up to our knees. I believe Andersen when she says that the ocean is unusually calm, but for me, the small waves might as well be tsunamis. I am standing waistdeep now, and each time I see a wave approaching, I shudder and sometimes also shriek. The first time this happens, I sort of leap into Andersens arms like a baby chimp and wrap my arms around her neck. The sense that this is an unacceptable thing for an adult to do is superseded entirely by my fear that a wave will swallow me and that Ill drown. Andersen is kind enough not to laugh. She instructs me to hop up against the waves force and, as we tread deeper, plant my feet as each swell passes. She also allows me to hold her hand whenever I need to. That rocking back and forth can be so peacefulI really want you to have that, she says. I go to the ocean wherever I am, whenever I want to get away from all the worries and stresses. Sometimes Im drowning on land, and I need to get in the water to breathe. This is where my confidence lies, Andersen adds. In the rest of my life, I have all these insecurities, but here I feel confident. When I ask why, Andersen pauses for a moment. I dont know. I guess the ocean has never broken my heart. It seems unlikely Ill ever have that much trust in the ocean, I say. How could I when we are standing in the same body of water that once pinned me to its floor? But you have to remember, Andersen says, the ocean didnt do that to you. I havent noticed, but I am now standing chin-deepthe farthest out Ive ever gone. Though we are more than an hour into my lesson, Andersen hasnt asked me to do any actual swimming. Instead, shes conducted a sort of immersion therapy, distracting me from my anxiety and allowing me to control the pace as we waded deeper. Somewhere along the way, its almost as if Ive forgotten that were not on land and adjusted

to my new environment, standing on tippy-toes and instinctually rising and rocking with the current. When I look back and see how far we are from shore, it feels strange not to feel afraid. I wouldnt describe standing here as peaceful, exactly, but it is not unpleasant. Do you want to see me actually swim? I ask. Andersen nods, so I hop up and try to remember what Will taught me: kicking from the hip, pulling the water, head not too high. Thats all it is, Andersen says. The rest is just technique. But having a feel for it and doing what feels naturalthats swimming. I envy Anderson, for whom the ocean has served as a vast well of courage. Those of us who stopped trusting ourselves early on tend to approach new things with paralyzing trepidation. But to encounter that sissy as an adultto watch her cry in the shallow end of the poolmay be a necessary step, it seems to me now, to building a kind of mental fortitude, a willingness to try whats daunting. Because each time youre able to remain afloat, even for a little bit, you add a droplet to that well, a reserve to tap the next time you lose nerve. After I leave Andersen, my boyfriend meets me in Biarritz and we drive down the coast, stopping at the beautiful beaches along the way. At each one, I clutch his arm as I wade into the ocean. When I get comfortable enough, I swim to him where the water is almost my height, asking him to stand farther and farther away from me so that I can test myself. Other times I like to just lie down underwatera rewriting of an old scene and look around. I still have to hum to pace my breathing, but instead of the long om, my underwater anthem has become Loudon Wainwright IIIs The Swimming Song, which a friend sent me during my studies at the Y. It goes like this: This summer I went swimming, This summer I might have drowned But I held my breath and I kicked my feet And I moved my arms around, I moved my arms around This summer I swam in the ocean, And I swam in a swimming pool, Salt my wounds, chlorine my eyes Im a self-destructive fool, a self-destructive fool.

shrew. Thats the culture. Immediately following Monteiths death, Michele turned to Hudson. I called her and said, I dont know where Im going to go because my house is swarmed [with reporters], Michele remembers. She was like, Oh, youre going to stay at my house. Like it was nothing. The seclusion was just what she needed. No one knew I was there, which was so great, she says. She let my family stay there, and any of my friends. She made sure that in the refrigerator there were my favorite juices. Ill never really be able to thank her, truly, for what she did for me. Hudson still gets choked up talking about those weeks. Honestly, she was inspiring, the actress says. Shes a very strong, special, loving woman. She really has dealt with the emotional side of it in a way that has been very healthy. Okay, this song really makes me want to fucking kill myself, Michele says, half-jokingly. I can only listen to it once every six months. Were sitting at Pulse Recording studio in Los Angeles with the singers production team, playing the tracks Michele has recorded for her long-awaited album. Michele is a whole different person when talking about her musica saucier, flashier, more animated version of the composed, wounded girl she was at home. Today shes dressed like a hipster superhero in skintight jeans, Fiorentini and Baker biker boots, and a paper-thin suede tank accessorized with a Starbucks coffee (black with just a splash of skim milk). After trying out a few different sounds, Michele and her team had settled on the records current vibebig, splashy, anthemic pop, a cross between Evanescence and Kelly Clarkson without a whiff of a show tunewhen Monteith died. The album was done, and the label said, Do you want to add anything? Michele recalls. At first she didnt think she did, but she reconsidered. I was like, I might regret it if I dont. To help write a song about Monteith, she reached out to Sia Furler, the Australian singersongwriter who has worked with Katy Perry, Rihanna, and Christina Aguilera and has five songs on Micheles album. When they met, it took her a second, and then I guess she read me right, and she knew that her secrets were safe with me, Furler says. They cowrote If You Say Sonamed for the last words Monteith said to Michele. The track isnt finished yet, but it will definitely be on the album, Michele says, as will another track added after Monteith died, called Cannonball. While working with Furler on that song, the actress broke down in sobs. I said [to Furler], I feel like Im starting to just sink in it, and he would never want me to do that. I need to remember that you have to live, because you can want to die. Telling this story, Michele quotes the Cannonball lyrics: Ive got to get out into the world again/ I wont hide inside/ Ive got to get out/ Got to get out/ Lonely inside but Im going to light the fuseand now I will start living. Over the course of two days together for this story, Micheles eyes mist up a few times. But its not until she plays another song, Youre Mine, recorded well before Monteiths death, that she actually lets go. Its a comparatively upbeat track built around the notion that one person can belong to another for life. Its about the way love makes you feel invincibleeverything else seems possible, because you have this person on your team forever. As it plays, Michele closes her eyes, sings along, and cries. It makes me so happy, this song, she shouts over the backbeat, grinning through her tears. It makes me think so much of Cory. It was ours. When I think of him, I play this.

BRAVE HEART CONTINUED FROM PAGE 288

restaurants, the way she cant help but correct me when I confuse two of her song titles. She has very high standards and defines herself by her ability to meet them. You would not want to be on her bad side. Totally, Groff concurs. Youre in or youre out with Lea. Her friendship is extreme in a good way. There is, however, a warmth underlying that fierceness. Kate Hudson, the actress Michele was rumored to be feuding with on the set of Glee back in the summer of 2012, is in fact one of her closest friends. The media just wants to pit girls against each other, Hudson says of rumors that she called Michele a nightmare to work with and a total diva. In reality, its one of those jokes where you sit in the makeup chair and you start a pool to see when the storys going come out that we hate each other, you know? Glees Murphy sees the smack talk as plain old sexism. Every woman, like Lea Michele, who has become very celebrated throughout the history of show businessbe it Bette Davis or Barbra Streisand if theyre anything but demure, theyd get shit for it all the time. If youre a man and you claim yourself to be ambitious, youre celebrated. A woman who says the same is looked upon as cold or a

317

A new moon early in the month shines positive light throughout December. Take advantage of the opportunities it affords, for a few cosmic storms will rage after the full moon on the 17th. Ensure a happy holiday with no-fuss festivities and plenty of close friends

SAGITTARIUS

THIS MONTH FOR SAGITTARIUS: (NOV 22DEC 21) The two weeks following the 2nds new moon will be an optimal time to set a new venture or relationship in motion. Choose something important, for seeds that are planted now will benefit your life for the year to come. Mars will be in your fame and honors sector from the 1st to the 7th, so make this week count at the office. Mars then enters Libra and quickly turns your orientation to social affairs. Be sure to seek out balance in order to fully enjoy your new butterfly status without sacrificing work or family responsibilities. Uranus will go direct on the 17th, bringing clarity in your romantic life, with either a steady partner or someone new. Then, be on the lookout for tension around the 25th, when Mars will oppose Uranus. Youll need to choose your words carefully when handling difficult situations. Just remember: Its the holidaystheres no need to spoil any gathering with avoidable confrontation. YOUR YEAR AHEAD: 2014 starts out with a long visit from Mars to your friendship sector, from December 7th to July 25th. Those closest to you will begin to play a big role in both your private life and also your career. Look for special professional breakthroughs to arrive around the full moon of March 16th, or on August 1st, when Mercury, ruler of your house of fame and honors, meets with good-fortune Jupiter. If youre married, when Jupiter enters fire sign Leo in mid-July, life will become brighter yet. Expect chances to travel or to put everyday cares aside for a time. For those single or dating, relationships may be volatile and should be treated with practicality. A new moon on March 30th and a set of eclipses on April 15th and October 8th will show truths. If commitment is your goal, spend time with a person of character who wants the same things. The universe always wants to see progress, and this year, youll forge ahead.
Amanda Seyfried December 3, 1985

CAPRICORN (DEC 22JAN 19)


Mars will begin an extensive tour of your house of fame and honors this month, giving you a new level of focus and drive. Plot your course carefully and consider the parts of your life youd like to change, knowing that the new moon on the 2nd will encourage this type of meditation. The 17ths full moon will likely bring conclusion to a work project, but it appears late hours may be required to get it all done. With additional holiday tasks, you may drive yourself too hard, so plan some relaxation in order to keep your health strong before Venus retrogrades on the 21st. Uranus will also be in a wild mood between the 24th and the 31st, and Mars will challenge Pluto and Mercury at the same time. These weeks could be tense, and you may have to turn on a dime to help others with unexpected developments. Remain flexible. Your legendary sense of humor will have you landing sunnyside up in no time.

AQUARIUS

(JAN 20FEB 18)

The party season has arrived, and youre in a festive mood. The 2nds new moon will bring many invitations, and youll be open to new people and finding ways to enjoy unexpected friendships. Socializing doesnt come cheap, but luckily, with Mars out of Virgo on the 7th, youll stay in the black. Get all of your most important business settled prior to the 17th, for a tender full moon in your house of love will trumpet all kinds of romance in which to revel. Venus will be retrograde soon after, however, adding a no-frills, hard-work tone to the holidays from the 21st on. Maintain your motivation and positivity, for a rare time of emotional and logistical turbulence is due to arise around the holidays. Uranus will be at odds with Mercury while also challenging the Sun, and Pluto and Mercury will be battling Mars. Scale back, keep calm, and be conservative. Things will improve quickly once the dust settles.

December starts off with a new moon in Sagittarius on the 2nd, which may encourage travel far and wide. Positive news should come as a result of this new moonand it could be totally (but wonderfully) unexpected. Mars, your ruler, will enter Libra on the 7th, inciting a long

ARIES

(MAR 21APR 19)

318 HOROSCOPE By Susan Miler

Christopher Beyer/Contour by Getty Images

After the new moon arrives on the 2nd, expect major career recognition to head your way. Watch for exciting calls that may offer opportunities to broaden your influence. The 12th could bring good news, thanks to stabilizing beams from wise Saturn and protection from Jupiter. This golden glow will hit a rocky patch in the second half of the month, however. Uranus will receive a challenge from Mars, causing jarring news or arguments about an unexpected expense. Remain diplomatic while you search for resolution. Jupiter will still be moving through your fifth house of true love, so enjoy its presence. Unattached? The best moment to meet someone will come midmonth, so by all means accept any party invites. If you decide to circulate and meet new people, do so prior to the full moon on the 17th, as Venus will enter retrograde shortly thereafter. To find lasting love, Venus needs to be awake and vibrant so get busy in early December!

PISCES

(FEB 19MAR 20)

and important focus on your relationship with someone else. Whether with a teammate at work or a romance, Aries prefers to be at the helm and is generally less comfortable in the role of collaborator, but now youll need to become skilled in the give-and-take of partnership. Uranus goes direct in Aries on the 17th, meaning that your social life will pick up and goals will get a push forward. But, thanks to a cosmic throwdown involving four planets, the week around the 29th will be a box of firecrackers, so keep holiday celebrations intimate and low-key.

TAURUS The new moon on the 2nd will tour your


(APR 20MAY 20)

financial sector, and the weeks that follow will be primed for reaping rewards. Though your workload may increase, your expertise and experience will be prized. However, its also important to relax, particularly since the ordinarily peaceful time around the holidays may turn volatile. Choose words carefully, as everyone will seem to be on edge. A partner may need to exercise patience if your schedule sputters out of control as career matters take center stage. Venus goes retrograde on the 21st and Mars will oppose Uranus on the 25th, meaning that the pressure will continue to build into the weeks following. Keep New Years plans simple, and remember that this trend is only temporary. By Valentines Day, cosmic storms will clear, and youll be in the perfect state of mind to celebrate your love for someone special.

Be on your game, Cancer, because business will be brisk in the weeks after the new moon on the 2nd. Keep in good health, too, as you may be susceptible to ailments by the full moon on the 17th, when Uranus turns direct and allows your career to take off. With the arrival of Mars in your home sector this month, property or a family matter may command major attention, with talks or events becoming heated around the 25th, when warrior Mars will confront unpredictable, explosive Uranus. Remind yourself to remain diplomatic, so that even if you feel youre caught between the needs of those at home and mounting demands at the office, you can ease tension and avoid any resentment toward someone close to you. More wild planetary energy may bring conflicts during the last week of December, but a soothing moon in Capricorn on the 31st will ease you into January.

CANCER

(JUNE 22JULY 22)

oppose Uranus and may cause an unlikely expense to suddenly surface and bring tension. In the days leading to New Years Eve, Mercury will be under siege by Uranus, suggesting that additional financial concerns will almost certainly come up, straining a committed relationship. Every sign is facing a turbulent end to the year, but with the moon in compatible Capricorn on New Years Eve, celebrate the year in a memorable if quietway.

LIBRA Life has proved challenging lately, but


(SEPT 23OCT 22)

GEMINI

(MAY 21JUNE 21)

Make the most of the first half of the month, when friendly planets will support your ideas. The 2nds new moon may prompt a greater commitment to a romantic partner or business collaboration. Mercury, your ruling planet, will work hard to lend support on the 3rd and the 10th in particular, when a meeting with Mars adds sparkle and surprise. A big moment may occur within four days of the full moon on the 17th, when something dearly important will reach culmination. Uranus will turn direct and Venus will begin to go retrograde soon after, however, ushering in tension as the holidays approach. On the 29th, Mercury will butt heads with surprise-a-minute Uranus, suggesting that travel may become treacherous or havoc may arrive in your financial life. With so many puzzle pieces flying out of place and into the air, this isnt the New Years Eve for anything outrageous. Youll want to be ready for whats in store in January.

Happily, this month starts off with a new moon in Sagittarius, lighting your fifth house of romance and fun. There will be a multitude of opportunities to meet someone new, so look your best and circulate. By the 7th, Mars will have left your second sector, and youll finally see financial reprieve in time for the holidays. At home, a living situation that has concerned you for as long as a year may finally find a solution, thanks to beautiful cooperation between Jupiter and Saturn on the 12th. After the 21st, however, things will begin to go haywire: Venus will be retrograde from the 21st to January 31st, making for a less-than-carefree atmosphere at work. With the Sun and Mercury in hard angle to Uranus, and Mars opposed to it, too, the outlook for New Years Eve seems emotionally draining. Avoid crowds and keep plans small and effortless to maximize fun. It may feel a bit late in the season to start thinking about changing, improving, or upgrading your living situation, but in fact your timing is perfect. The new moon on the 2nd will bring a plethora of options. As if the focus on home were not enough, the full moon in your house of honors and achievement on the 17th is likely to put you directly in the spotlightexpect applause for work well done. The end of December will be difficult, however: On the 25th, Mars will

LEO

(JULY 23AUG 22)

the possibilities for positive change will be plentiful this month. Traveling would offer the chance to put daily cares aside, with opportunities to do so set to arrive in the weeks around the new moon on the 2nd. You may also have the rare chance to manipulate events to suit your wishes, for Mars will grant you control as it begins its visit in Libra on the 7th. Planetary turbulence will be unavoidable over the holidays, however. Uranus, the planet of unpredictability, will go direct on the 17th. While most of its activity will be positive, news that comes between the 24th and the 31st may also bring stress. Your career appears to be shining, though, so turn your focus there when things get hectic in other areas. Since Mars will be in angry angle to Uranus on the 25th, keep holiday plans flexible. A spontaneous but mellow celebration will feel oh so right.

SCORPIO

(OCT 23NOV 21)

VIRGO

(AUG 23SEPT 22)

Timing is everything in life, and early in the month will be ideal to ask for a raise or to negotiate a better salary. The new moon on the 2nd will be your ally in any talks. Good luck could spring up in any area of your chart by the full moon on the 17th, for Jupiter, planet of good fortune, will have been beautifully angled to Saturn, the planet of longevity and stability, since the 12th. After this date, however, life will become tenser. Venus will take a rare rest, withholding all her best powers from the 21st onward. Soon after, Mars, your ruling planet, will pick a fight with Uranus, planet of volatility, creating mayhem. Keep organized to offset any issues that arise. On the 29th, Uranus will challenge Mercury, and then, the next day, be at odds with the Sun. Mercury rules travel and communication; Uranus your family, home life, and, to some degree, your work flow, so brace for unexpended developments across these sectors. In short: Keep holiday plans simple, then sit back, open the window, and see what flies in.

For your full astrological forecast from Susan Miller, visit Astrologyzone.com. For your daily horoscope, go to ELLE.com/horoscopes.

319

HUSTLE AND FLOW


In more ways than one, Jeremy Renner was a late bloomer (see below). Kicking around L.A. since 1993, long before The Hurt Lockers surprise win for Best Pictureaccompanied by his nomination for Best Actorat the 2010 Academy Awards, he supported himself with a series of odd jobs between acting gigs. How odd? Well, hes probably the only member of The Avengers to have worked as a makeup artist at the Lancme counter. (Really.) But persistence clearly paid off in spades and accolades. After scoring a second Oscar nod for his tightly wound work in The Town in 2011, the Modesto, California, native finds himself on the award trail again this winter with American Hustle, David O. Russells follow-up to Silver Linings Playbook. The film, a true-life con-man story, stars Bradley Cooper as a 1970s FBI agent working a sting operation, and Renner as the honorable (but duped) mayor of Camden, New Jersey. The period-perfect retro styling wasnt the only change Renner encountered while filming Hustle. He and his girlfriend, model Sonni Pacheco, also welcomed a baby girl. Here, the 42-yearold actor talks fatherhoodplus strip clubs, marriage, and losing his virginity.
ELLE: You once worked as a makeup art-

If Jeremy Renner knows one thing, its that when you live, you learn. The new father sits down with Mickey Rapkin and lets us in on a few of the love lessons hes picked up along the waysome in the most unlikely of places
gets in the way in relationships. In every issue and problem that comes, lets not point the finger. Think, Where did I go wrong? Wheres my part in it? ELLE: Is there anything youd do differently about your first time? JR: Yeah, not do it again. ELLE: What does that mean? JR: Its like puberty. You never want to do that over. ELLE: Think shes told everyone in town that she took Jeremy Renners virginity? JR: I dont know. I havent seen them in forever. ELLE: Wait, them? JR: Theyre twins. Well, I was with one of the twins. [Laughs] I wasnt pimping. I was older when it happened, too. Like, 18. ELLE: Thats not so old. JR: Its not? Okay, good. To some of my friends, I was late. ELLE: Youve had a lot of success flipping houses. Is it easier to manage a business partnership than a romantic one? JR: My knee-jerk reaction is to say yes. Men and womentheres a lot of headwind in that department, and there are very different principles and emotions and outlooks. My girl is masculine in a lot of ways, even though she looks like a supermodel. That works out. A girly girl just doesnt do it for me. I cant have a conversation about your broken nail. ELLE: You had a baby this year. What do you hope to teach your daughter? JR: Compassion. Something a lot of people dont teach. ELLE: Do you feel pressured to get married? JR: Ive never felt that pressure. No. ELLE: Do you believe in the institution? JR: For some people. ELLE: But not for yourself? JR: I dont know. Its not necessarily something I often think about. Its a whole other conversation. Dont forget how the institution of marriage came about. ELLE: Is there a movie or a line of dialogue that gets love right? JR: Something from Braveheart. Every man dies. Not every man really lives. ELLE: How is that applicable? JR: Thats love of life. Grab it every day. Because were all gonna die. Its difficult to live that way. Most people are afraid to. Or cant. I find it very difficult.

ist. Was that to meet women? In the theater, we had to do our own stage makeup. I figured I could tone it down and do it on hot girls all day. It wasnt the case. It ended up being older ladies, which was just fine. ELLE: Did the job help you to understand women in a new way? JR: My philosophy on what makeup is its very different from what a womans is. Makeup came from a very psychological placeof the peacock. You want a guys opinion on what looks good versus what you think looks good? That blue eye shadow up to your eyebrows does not. Let me try something else. ELLE: Youve previously talked about downtime on movie sets and getting into trouble. Would you share a story from your single days? JR: I find myself in troublesome situations quite often. But I dont get caught. ELLE: I read that a woman once bit your arm and sent you to the hospital. JR: Yeah. That happened.
JEREMY RENNER:

do. I wouldnt go to a barbecue at her house. I didnt pay enough attention to her. I dont know. It was a long time ago. ELLE: Okay. What kind of trouble would you get into? Are we talking strip clubs? JR: Yeah, Ive frequented those. I think, strangely, a strip club can tell you a lot about the city youre in. If you call a strip club Tunas, Ive gotta go in there. Usually youre not seeing the top talent around, but its not about that. Its about the experience. ELLE: You have a lot of self-confidence. Where does that come from? JR: I dont know, man. Obviously, my parents. I always felt supported and loved. Even though they were separated. I had a lot of freedom as a latchkey kid to go explore and fail and succeed and do it all over again. ELLE: What did their marriage teach you about relationships? JR: What not to do. Both of my parents have been married three times. ELLE: Three times? Why not just date? JR: My dads a grown-ass man. He can make his own decisions. I dont really get involved in that kind of stuff. Hes gotta sleep with somebody. He can go on that journey again, if he wants. ELLE: Did he ever give you any valuable advice about women? JR: Yeah. We both studied theology and psychology, so we had wonderful conversations about human behavior and our own patterns and the bullshit that

ELLE: Was it something you said? JR: No. It was something I didnt

320 CHERCHEZ LA FEMME

Jeremy Renners childhood crush? Wonder Woman herself, Lynda Carter. Find out who else he was drawn to in Mickeys extended Q&A at ELLE.com/jeremyrenner.

Cliff Watts/Trunk Archive

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