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screw driver.
The big ratchet or breaker bar is for turning the crank. I can't remember exactly what size it is, i think its
a 21mm (maybe a 19mm). if your in a bind you could get away with an adjustable.
Disclaimer: If you are uncomfortable doing this take your car to a mechanic. What you do to your car is
your problem, this is a guideline of how to adjust your valve lash into the manufacturers specifications.
Dont hold me responsible for something you mess up. If you have doubts at any time you should stop
and take your car to a mechanic.
Be careful not to drop anything into the head, and do not do this in a dusty or windy environment. You
do not want dust, dirt, and debris in your head.
Now, lets get to the good stuff.
#1 Pull off the valve cover. there will be some 10mm nuts holding it on. You may have to wiggle it out
from under the power steering line. once that is off you will see this (pic below). This picture shows
which cylinder is which, and where the adjustment screws are for the intake and exhaust valves on each
cylinder.
#2 Set the number 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the intake stroke. To do this you will need to
stick your breaker bar, rachet, etc. on the crank bolt and turn it CLOCKWISE until the timing marks on
the cam/vtc gear line up like this (pic below).
[B]The stock specification is between .21‐.25mm (.008‐,.010in) for intake side and .25‐.29mm (.010‐
.011in) for exhaust.[/B]
#3 Grab your feeler gauges, screwdriver, and (i think its) a 10mm wrench. Slide the appropriate feeler
gauge between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the rocker arm (as below). Make sure you
get the feeler gauge flat against the valve stem otherwise you will get skewed results. If your valve lash
is correct you will feel a slight amount of drag on the gauge. If you get no drag you need to tighten, if it is
difficult to move it you need to loosen. Once you do a valve or two you will get the feel for it. (it does
pay to have extra hands for the actual adjusting)
Adjusting: to loosen or tighten the valve you first need to crack the nut loose. There is a flat head screw
inside it, this is how you will actually adjust the valve lash. the nut is to keep it in place. Once you have
cracked the nut loose use your flat head screw driver to loosen/tighten the screw until your feeler gauge
has a slight amount of drag on it. (that is where it pays to have extra hands). Once you have adjusted it,
carefully tighten the nut back down, all the while watching the screw carefully to make sure it does not
turn (I usually keep the screwdriver on the screw to help). This is why it is important to use a wrench, so
you can see the screw. Rinse and repeat for all four valves on the number 1 cylinder.
#4 After you have [B]**rechecked cylinder 1's valve lash and adjustment nuts**[/B], turn the crankshaft
180 degrees clockwise (Cam pulley turns 90 degrees) you will be at TDC for cylinder 3 (see below).
Repeat step #3 and adjust all valves for cylinder 3.
#5 After you have [B]**rechecked cylinder 3's valve lash and adjustment nuts**[/B], turn the crankshaft
180 degrees clockwise and you will be at TDC for cylinder 4 (see below). Repeat step #3 and adjust all
valves for cylinder 4.
#6 After you have [B]**rechecked cylinder 4's valve lash and adjustment nuts**[/B], turn the crankshaft
180 degrees clockwise and you will be at TDC for cylinder 2 (see below). Repeat step #3 and adjust all
valves for cylinder 2.
#7 Now you have adjusted the valve lash on all 16 valves. It is a REALLY GOOD IDEA to go back through
one more time and double check you have adjusted them all correctly and tightened down all of the
adjustment nuts. Better safe then sorry when it comes to dropping a valve into your piston. And now
that you have the hang of it, you will be done in no time.
#8 Replace valve cover in reverse of removal, start the engine, and pat yourself on the back. Happy
TSXing! :mardi:
‐ H22A_CD5