Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

17

Contents
On the Road

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Brazil Highlights

Rio de Janeiro
State

Destination Brazil

21

Getting Started

23

Itineraries

30

History

36

The Culture

56

Carnaval

76

Food & Drink

85

Environment

96

Brazilian Wildlife
Guide

105

Rio De Janeiro City

124

History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Courses
Rio for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping

125
126
127
129
130
152
155
157
158
158
159
159
165
172
174
178

180
181

184

COSTA VERDE
Ilha Grande &
Vila do Abrao
Angra dos Reis
Paraty
Around Paraty
ITATIAIA REGION
Penedo
Visconde de Mau
Parque Nacional
de Itatiaia
NORTH OF RIO DE
JANEIRO
Petrpolis
Vassouras
Terespolis
Parque Nacional
da Serra dos rgos
Nova Friburgo
EAST OF RIO DE
JANEIRO
Saquarema
Arraial do Cabo
Cabo Frio
Bzios

Esprito Santo

186
186
190
191
196
198
198
199
201
202
202
205
205
207
208
210
210
211
213
214

220

THE COAST
Itanas
Vitria
Guarapari
Parque Estadual
Paulo Csar Vinha
Anchieta
Around Anchieta
INLAND
Domingos Martins
Around Domingos Martins

Minas Gerais
BELO HORIZONTE
COLONIAL TOWNS
Ouro Prto
Around Ouro Prto
Mariana

221
221
224
227
228
229
229
230
230
231

232
234
242
242
249
249

18

CONTENTS

Lavras Novas
Sabar
Congonhas
So Joo del Rei
Tiradentes
Diamantina
Serro
CENTRAL PARKS
Parque Nacional
da Serra do Cip
Cachoeira Tabuleiro
Parque Natural
do Caraa
SOUTHERN MINAS
Caxambu
Aiuruoca & the Vale
do Matutu
So Thom das Letras
EASTERN PARKS
Parque Nacional
de Capara
Estao Biolgica
de Caratinga

So Paulo State
SO PAULO CITY
History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Walking Tour
Courses
So Paulo for Children
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND SO PAULO
Paranapiacaba
Embu
PAULISTA COAST
Ubatuba
So Sebastio
Ilhabela
Boiucanga & Around
Guaruj
Iguape & Around
Canania
INLAND
Iporanga

251
251
252
253
257
261
264
265
265
266
266
267
267
269
270
271
271
272

274
277
277
279
279
282
282
292
294
294
294
294
296
298
299
301
302
303
304
304
304
304
304
306
307
309
310
310
311
311
311

Campos do Jordo
Gruta dos Crioulos

Paran

313
314

315

Curitiba
Vila Velha
Morretes
Antonina
Paranagu
Ilha do Mel
Parque Nacional
do Superagi
Iguau Falls & Around
Parque das Aves
Itaipu Dam
Ciudad del Este (Paraguay)

Santa Catarina

316
322
322
323
323
324
328
328
335
335
335

336

ILHA DE SANTA
CATARINA
Florianpolis
North Island
East Coast
South Island
THE MAINLAND
Joinville
Blumenau
Vale Europu
North of Florianpolis
South of Florianpolis
Serra Geral

337
339
342
343
345
346
346
348
350
352
355
356

Rio Grande do Sul

358

PORTO ALEGRE
Orientation
Information
Sights
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
SERRA GACHA
Bento Gonalves
Vale dos Vinhedos
Gramado
Canela
Cambar do Sul
ROTA MISSES
Santo ngelo
So Miguel das Misses
Other Brazilian Sites

360
360
360
361
362
362
362
363
363
363
364
364
365
366
368
369
371
371
372
372

Argentine & Paraguayan

Missions
LITORAL GACHO
Torres
Rio Grande
Chu

Braslia
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around

Gois

373
374
374
375
375

377
380
380
380
381
384
384
385
387
387
387
387
388

389

Goinia
Cidade de Gois
Pirenpolis
Caldas Novas
Parque Nacional da
Chapada dos Veadeiros
Alto Paraso de Gois
So Jorge

399
400
401

Mato Grosso &

Mato Grosso do Sul

402

MATO GROSSO
Cuiab
Chapada dos Guimares
Cceres
Alta Floresta
Pocon
THE PANTANAL
Geography & Climate
Planning
Tours
Sleeping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
MATO GROSSO
DO SUL
Campo Grande
Corumb
Coxim
Bonito & Around
Ponta Por

391
392
394
398

404
405
409
411
412
413
413
415
415
417
418
421
421
421
421
424
427
428
432

CONTENTS

Bahia

434

SALVADOR
History
Orientation
Information
Dangers &
Annoyances
Sights
Courses
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There &
Away
Getting Around
BAA DE TODOS
OS SANTOS
Ilha de Itaparica
Other Islands
RECNCAVO
Cachoeira & So Flix
Santo Amaro
NORTH OF SALVADOR
Arembepe
Praia do Forte
Praia do Forte to Stio
do Conde
Stio do Conde & Barra
do Itarir
Mangue Seco
SOUTH OF SALVADOR
Morro de So Paulo
Boipeba
Valena
Camamu
Barra Grande
Itacar
Ilhus
Olivena
Porto Seguro
North of Porto Seguro
South of Porto Seguro
Trancoso to Carava
Parque Nacional
de Monte Pascoal
Caravelas
Parque Nacional Marinho
de Abrolhos
WEST OF SALVADOR
Feira de Santana
Lenis
Parque Nacional
da Chapada Diamantina

437
437
439
439
442
442
447
448
449
451
452
453
455
456
456
457
457
459
459
459
462
462
463
463
465
466
466
467
467
470
470
471
472
473
475
478
479
483
484
487
488
489
491
491
491
492
496

Sergipe & Alagoas

499

SERGIPE
Aracaju
Laranjeiras
So Cristvo
ALAGOAS
Macei
South of Macei
Penedo
North of Macei

Pernambuco

501
501
505
506
507
507
512
514
516

520

THE COAST
Recife
Olinda
Beaches South of Recife
Ilha de Itamarac
FERNANDO DE
NORONHA
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Activities
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Entertainment
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
INLAND
Caruaru

Paraba & Rio

Grande do Norte

539
540
540
540
541
541
542
543
544
544
544
544
544

546

PARABA
Joo Pessoa
Jacum & Around
RIO GRANDE
DO NORTE
Natal
South of Natal
North of Natal

Cear, Piau &

Maranho

521
521
532
536
538

548
548
551
553
553
559
562

565

CEAR
Fortaleza
Beaches Southeast of
Fortaleza
Canoa Quebrada
Southeast to Rio Grande
do Norte

567
567
575
575
577

Beaches Northwest of
Fortaleza
Icara de Amontada
Jericoacoara
Camocim
Sobral
Serra de Baturit
Parque Nacional
de Ubajara
Juazeiro do Norte
PIAU
Teresina
Parnaba
Around Parnaba
Parque Nacional de Sete
Cidades
Parque Nacional
da Serra da Capivara
MARANHO
So Lus
Alcntara
Parque Nacional dos
Lenis Maranhenses
Paulino Neves/Rio Novo
Tutia
The North Coast
Imperatriz
Carolina

The Amazon
PAR
Belm
Ilha do Mosqueiro
Algodoal
Ilha de Maraj
Santarm
Around Santarm
Parque Nacional
da Amaznia
Monte Alegre
Alenquer
AMAP
Macap
Tumucumaque
National Park
Oiapoque
TOCANTINS
Palmas
Around Palmas
Natividade
AMAZONAS
Manaus
Around Manaus
Rio Negro Basin
Presidente Figueiredo

19

577
578
578
581
582
582
583
583
584
584
586
587
588
589
589
589
596
597
600
600
600
600
600

602
606
606
617
618
620
623
627
631
632
632
633
633
636
637
637
637
641
643
643
644
655
658
659

20

CONTENTS

Parintins
Tef
Mamirau Reserve
The Triple Frontier
Rio Javari
RORAIMA
Boa Vista
Around Boa Vista
Santa Elena de Uairn
(Venezuela)
RONDNIA
Porto Velho
Reserva Extrativista
do Lago do Cuni
Guajar-Mirim
Guayaramern (Bolivia)
Guapor Valley &
Central Rondnia
ACRE
Rio Branco
Around Rio Branco
Xapuri
Brasilia
Cobija (Bolivia)

660
660
662
664
669
669
670
674

Directory
Transportation
Health
Language

674
676
677

Glossary
The Authors

681
681
683

Behind the Scenes

685
686
686
690
690
692
694

Index
GreenDex
Map Legend

696
715
724
732
741
744
747
753
766
768

Regional Map Contents

Amazon Region
p603

Cear, Piaui &

Maranho p566

Paraba &
Rio Grande
do Norte p547

Pernambuco p522
Sergipe & Alagoas p500
Bahia
p435

Mato
Braslia
Grosso &
p378
Mato
Grosso do Gois p390
Minas
Sul p403
Gerais p233
So Paulo
State p275
Paran
p316

Rio de Janeiro State p185

Rio de Janeiro p131

Santa Catarina p337

Rio Grande
do Sul p359

Esprito Santo p221

70W

75W

55W

60W

65W

GEORGETOWN

ta

VENEZUELA
Santa Elena

R o

Or

i no

Put um a yo

Maus

BR

ur
us

Ri

BR

230

ra

ei
ad

PORTO VELHO

re

RIO BRANCO
Guayaramerin
Riberalta

Guajar-Mirim
BR

364

Cobija

LIMA

o M
Di
ad re d e

Costa
Marques

os

Alta Floresta

R io

io

Pi

li
ca y a
o U

ra

BR

163

l es

BR

Ri

a
o M

Humait

Te

riri

Amazon
Basin

319

364

znic

ama

s
Tran

Ri

Brasilia

Santarm

Alter do Cho

MANAUS

Manacapuru

z ona s )

R io

10S

A ma

Cruzeiro
do Sul

PERU

io

Leticia
Tabatinga

R io

ar

R i o A ma z ona s

I
Rio

5S

av

Fonte
Boa Tef

Ju

Iquitos

tai

R i o Ia
R o Ama
z o na
s

(R

po

Ri o

Reserva de
N
Desenvolvimento eg r o
Sustentvel Mamirau

ol ime
R io S
s

Ju R
r u io

Na

e
aqu

174

R i o Ta p a
j

R o

BR

cum

ru

R i o Ja pur

u
Serra Tum

Pa

ue
t

SURINAME

i
Ja r

ECUADOR

Ri

BOA VISTA

Pico da Neblina
(3014m)

R o C a
q

co

FRENCH
GUIANA

Ri

MANAUS (p644)
Gateway to jungle trips along
the mighty Amazon, the
once-glorious city has teeming
markets and Amazonian culture

CAYENNE

s s eq ui b o
o E

COLOMBIA

re
a vi a
Gu

R io B
ran
c

Ro

PARAMARIBO

GUYANA
Ri

BOGOT

X in
gu

5N

Mt Roraima
(2810m)

BR

163

Vilhena

Planalto de
Mato Grosso

Cuzco
BR

174

CUIAB

Lake
Titicaca

15S
Arequipa

Cceres

Pocon

LA PAZ

BR

364

BR

163

BOLIVIA

BR

262

PANTANAL (p413)
Verdant wonderland with fantastic
wildlife viewing coupled with trekking,
horseback riding and boat trips

Aquidauana

Ro

OCEAN
Antofagasta

apricorn

Te n
co

Pil

co m

ay

Salta

of C

267

R io A p a
Dourados

Pa

Ponta
Por

San Miguel
de Tucumn

La Serena

Crdoba

Santa Fe

Iguau
Falls

R io

Santa
Maria

Uruguaiana

BR

290
BR

392

Salto

Pelotas

Paran
Paysand

San Juan

URUGUAY
80W

75W

70W

65W

60W

Maring

ua

Ur

ug

Ojos del Salado

(6900m)

ra

Cascavel

ASUNCIN
Foz do
Iguau

ARGENTINA

R o Pa r a g ua

IGUAU FALLS (p328)

More than 250 spectacular
waterfalls surrounded by
Atlantic rain forest

BR

R o
S al ad o

25S

Ro

CHILE

Trs
Lagoas

Banito

R io

R i o P a r a g ua i

PARAGUAY

PACIFIC

BONITO (p428)
One of Brazil's top ecotourism
destinations with river snorkeling,
forest-backed waterfalls
and surreal caverns

CAMPO
GRANDE

Potos

20S

Tropic

Coxim

Pantanal
Corumb

Sucre

Ro
Grande

55W

Chu

50W

45W

40W

35W

30W

LEGEND
ILHA DE MARAJ (p620)
Vast, rain forestcovered island with
good seafood, old ruins and abundant
wildlife amid spectacular scenery

ELEVATION

0
0

Oiapoque

MACAP

R io aiar
Ba c

SO LUS

BR

Sobral

TERESINA

Imperatriz

BR

Mossor

020

BR

116

BR

BR

230

NATAL

BR

135

na
b

an
ci s

BR

So

Se

BR

Ouro Prto

BR

BR

o D
oc

OURO PRTO (p242)

Brazil's finest baroque architectural gem,
with a labyrinth of picturesque cobbled
streets climbing precipitous hillsides

So Mateus

VITRIA

nhao

Pico da

Campos

RIO DE JANEIRO (p124)

An enchanting city of samba clubs,
picturesque beaches, football madness
and a bohemian arts scene

Pico das Agulhas Negras (2787m)

RIO DE JANEIRO

SO
PAULO

Paraty
Santos Vila Ilhabela

Ilha
Grande

Tropic of

20S

Capricorn

a d
o

CURITIBA

ar

116

BR

101

Juiz de Fora

330

Sorocaba

15S
Porto Seguro
BR

116

(2892m)

BR

Ponta
Grossa

Ilhus

040 Bandeira

Ribeiro Preto

Bauru

SALVADOR (p437)
The Afro-Brazilian soul of the
country with powerful drum corps,
mystical Candombl ceremonies
and magnificent architecture

251

Belo
Horizonte

BR

153

Campinas

Vitria da
Conquista

Pico Itamb
(2062m) R i

262

Uberaba

SALVADOR

Diamantina

Curvelo

Uberlndia

Araatuba

Lenis

rr

050

10S
ARACAJU
Estncia
Conde
Feira de Santana

BR

Pirapora

101

RECIFE (p521) & OLINDA (p532)

Twin historic cities of the Pernambuco
coast with jumping nightlife, fascinating
culture and two of Brazil's top Carnavals

MACEI

Belo
Campo

do

Montes Claros

GOINIA

RECIFE
BR

Valena

E spi

020

BRASLIA

428

Cachoeira

Parque
Nacional da
Chapada
Diamantina

BR

Pirenpolis

R i o G r a nd

Olinda

Caruaru

BR

Bom Jesus
da Lapa

Parque Nacional
da Chapada
dos Veadeiros

a
o P ar

BR

5S

JOO PESSOA

BR

BR

242

R io

153

FERNANDO DE NORONHA (p539)

Spectacular tropical archipelago
with pristine waters, world-class
diving and magnificent beaches

324

Xique-Xique

Fr

R io

Barreiras

Londrina

230

Juazeiro

co

R io

Ar

ag

T o ca nt i

232

So Raimundo
Nonato

BR

BR

Sousa
BR

PALMAS

Ilha do
Bananal

S e rr

153

Juazeiro
do Norte

Picos

BR

140

ns

ua
ia

Carolina

Presidente
Prudente

OCEAN

Fernando de Noronha

316

Ri

ATLANTIC

FORTALEZA

BR

222

060

JERICOACOARA (p578)
The ultimate backpacker hideaway, with
fantastic coastal scenery, good nightlife,
and fine surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing

Jericoacoara
Camocim

Parnaba

010

Marab

Jata

200m
500 km
300 miles

Parque Nacional
dos Lenis
Maranhenses

BR

316

Alcntara

BR

5N

400m

Salinpolis

BELM

Cidade
de Gois

1000m

PARQUE NACIONAL DOS

LENIS MARANHENSES (p597)
Enormous expanse of high
dunes and pristine lagoons
overlooking the Atlantic surf

Equator

Ilha de
Maraj

2000m

Freeway
Primary Road
Secondary Road
Tertiary Road

Canania
Paranagu

Joinville

PARATY (p191)
A culturally vibrant 17th-century seaside
town surrounded by jungled mountains,
waterfalls and dazzling beaches

FLORIANPOLIS

Ilha de Santa
Catarina

BR

116

25S

BR

101

ATLANTIC

PORTO ALEGRE

ILHA DE SANTA CATARINA (p337)

Big surf, happening nightlife,
succulent oysters, deserted beaches,
quaint fishing villages and more
50W

45W

40W

SO PAULO (p277)
Brazil's megalopolis of rich
cultural diversity with great
museums, dining and nightlife

35W

OCEAN

30W

25W

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