54

Venetian plaster wa[[s

7t

Quick

58

Space-saving wa[[ niche

72

Repair a drippy shower

61

Mud-busting boot scraper

73

Quiet a noisy fan

62

Regrout a shower

74

Garage ceit'ing storage

66

Get a weed-free yard

Pocket hote jig

Versatite vise
Palm-sized screwdriver packs a punch
Back pocket square

Dual-use wire stripper

Single-squeeze cautk gun

Best rolter cleaner ever

Stripped screw remover

Multiuse tool that reatty works

Three tools

in

tool

Big-grip spring ctamps

80

Make over a room

82

Panel a wa[[

87

Transform a room with

painted rectangles

9 ways to save etectricity

103

Save $150 with

Cut

10-use paint

one

98

t42

fix for dirty dryer vents

with trim

in one weekend

104

90

Super-si mpte box shelves

93

Steppingstone path

94

Paint your kitchen cabinets

97

Under-bed ro[[-out

Cover leaky windows

CFLs

in one day

106

Textured walts

110

Cast a concrete fountain

115

Ti[e your backsplash

728

Summer sanctuary

133

Insta[[ kitchen cabinet crown molding

Install open basket units

your home insurance bi[[

118

Bathroom cabinet

122

Custom closet organizer

134 Elegant and easy bookcase

138 Attractive barbecue cart
747 Wallpaper one watl

6
10
77

10 simple cabinet repairs

Super-simpte DVD hotder
Scum-proof your shower doors
Replace a broken dryer vent cap

12

Speed-ctean for cheap

13

Fix seams in watlpaper

Clean chandetiers quickty
Better traction on concrete

74

Stabitize a wobbl"y bookcase

75

Repair smatt holes in walts

Quick fix for a wobbly table leg

76

Patch watls with aluminum

77

Balance a ceiting fan

Reclaim crusty paint

18

Cautk cracked concrete

t9

Ftoor-friendty feet for furniture

Repair otd extensjon cords

SPECIAL SECTION:

1O-minute plumbing fixes

20

Unclog a tub drain without

chemica[s

27
22

Replace a [eaky water valve

Fast

fix for a slow-filting

washer

23
24

Qujet ctanking pipes

Fix a slow-running faucet
Keep your washing machine

fresh
A trick for splicing
drainpipe

in plastic

Replace worn-out
drawer slides
Ifyou find that

slides are bent, rollers are broken or rollers

won't

turn even after lubricating, replacement is the best solution. To

keep the project simple, buy new slides that are identical (or
almost identical) to the old ones. That way, replacement is an easy
matter of unscrewing the old and screwing on the new. Remove a
drawer track and a cabinet track and take them shopping with
you. Whether you have pairs of side-mounted slides (as shown
here) or single, center-mount slides, there's a good chance you'll
find very similar slides at a home center for $5 to $15 per drawer.

If you can't find them, check with a cabinet materiais supplier (in
the yellow pages under "Cabinets, Equipment and Supplies").

Lubricate
sticking drawers
A few minutes of cleaning and lubricating can
make drawer slides glide almost like new. Start
by removing the drawers so you can inspect the

pulling
them all the way out, then either lifting or
lowering the front of the drawer until the
wheels come out of the track. Wipe the tracks
clean and coat them with a light spray lubrislides. You can remove most drawers by

cant. Also lubricate the rollers and make sure

they spin easily.

lrff:labroken
Don't put up with
corner

bro

joint on a drawer

Fix it before the whole

drawer comes apart.
Remove the drawer

and then remove

the drawer front

from the drawer

box if possible. Most

fronts are fastened by

a couple of screws

inside the box. Wood

glue will make a strong
repair if there's wood-towood contact at the joint. If

joint

is

coated, use epoxy instead

of

the wood at the

wood glue.

PROJECTS UNDER $1

't$

Remove naits,

-*. staples or screws from the

loose joint and scrape away
old glue with a utitity knife.

!\" Predritl 1/16-in. holes for nails, apply wood glue to the joint
s-, and naiI it together with 1-1/2-in. finish nails.

Glue

Fill stripped
screw holes

loose knobs
Any handle or knob that

When cabinet doors, catches or drawer slides aren,t working

right, first make sure the screws are tight. If a screw turns but

comes loose once is likely

to come loose
Put

again.
permanent stop

doesn't tighten, the screw hole is stripped. Here's a quick remedy:

Remove the screw and hard-

to this problem

ware. Dip toothpicks in glue,

jam as many as you can into the

with a tiny drop of

thread adhesive

hole and break them off. Either

like Loctite (about

flat or round toothpicks will

$4 at home cen-

work. If you don't have tooth-

Don'tworry;
if you want to
replace your hardters).

picks handy, shave splinters off

ware sometime in
the future, the knobs
will still come off with

don't have to wait for the glue to

dry or drill new screw holes; just go ahead and reinstall the hardware by driving screws right into the toothpicks.

a screwdriver.

Clean a yucky
cutting board

Touch up nicks
and scratches

il*irilHif:i":;:#'"$

wipe off the excess with a rag. But beware:

Scratches can absorb lots of stain and turn
darker than the surrounding finish. So start

with a marker that's lighter than your cabinet

finish and then switch to a darker shade if

wood scrap with a utility knife.

Immediately wipe away glue
drips with a damp cloth. You

If you love the convenience of your pullout wooden cutting board but don't use it
itk stained and grungy, try this chef-approved, two-step process. Simply
scour the board with a lemon and a pile of kosher salt, then apply mineral oil. The
because

coarse kosher salt is an excellent abrasive, and the citric acid kills bacteria. when the
stains are gone, rinse the board with water and let it dry. Then appry mineral oil to
the board. Mineral oil helps prevent the wood from absorbing stains.

needed. For deeper scratches, use a filler pencil,

which fills and colors the scratch. If the cabinet
finish is dingy overall and has lots of scratches,
consider a wipe-on product like Old English
Scratch Coat (96 at home centers). These products can darken the finish slightly, so you have
to apply them to all your cabinets.

C
L

nppty mineral oit to the

board and wipe off the
excess. After a few hours,
apply a second coat.

Buyer's guide
the cabinet hardware and products mentioned here are available at home
centers and hardware stores. For a targer setection of hinges, catches and
drawer stides, check out Woodworker's Hardware at wwhirdware.com,

AIL

[800) 383-01 30.

1O

SII/PLE CABINET

REPAIRS

Super-simple

DVD

holder
his clever shelf holds DVDs, CDs or even small books.
You can make yours with as many shelves as you like simply by changing the length of the trunk.
To get started, cut the trunk and shelves to length. Bevel one
end of each shelf by tilting your miter saw or table saw blade to
5 degrees. Mark the notches in the shelves and trunk (Photos I
and 2). Measuring from the top ofthe trunk, center the notches at
8-112, 11.-112, 17-114,20-114,26-114and.29 in. Cut the notches

{
I

Set your bevel gauge at 5 degrees using the miter gauge

and fence of your table saw.

using a 5-degree guide block and a pull saw (available at home

centers for $17.50). Assemble the shelf (Photo 3). Screw metal
straps to the back of the trunk, leaving one screw hole exposed so
you can screw the DVD holder to the wall.
1-5l8" SCREW
TRUNK
314" x5-112" x34"

{ Ef<-srRAP

{Ll-

SHELF

x7"

314" x5-112"

O
1

tqart the notches on the edge of the trunk using the bevel
g"ug". Mark the face of the trunk with a square.

J
J

Test-fit each shetf and then gtue

5'BEVEL

cost: $10 if made

from [auan as shown.

Materials:8 ft. of 1x6,
wood gtue, Z-in. x 1l?-in
metaI straps, 1 -5l8-in.
screws, spray lacquer.

PROJECTS UNDER 91

it into pl,ace. If

a shelf

tightly that it's hard to remove after test fitting,

just leave it-no glue is needed.
O

tits

so

Scum-proof
your shower
doors
Keeping shower doors clean and streak free is

challenge-unless you know the pros'cleaning

secret. Start by cleaning any mold, mildew or
streaks off the glass with a glass cleaner. Use a
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser ($3 for a two-pack at
home centers and discount stores) to get into
the cracks in textured glass. Scrape off tough

buildup with a razor blade. Dry the doors with

a

cloth.
Tieat the doors with a product like Aquapel

($8; autobodydepot.com) or Rain-X ($5 at auto

parts stores and home centers). These glass

treatments form an invisible film on the glass to
increase water repellency, causing water and
soap to bead up and run offthe glass. (Squeegee
off the water after bathing to keep soap scum
from building up again.) Spray or wipe on the
glass treatment, then wipe it off with a
microfiber cloth. Overspray won't harm surrounding surfaces. The products repel water for
six months.

ffiepfimce ffi hnm*qmffi dnyffin wffiffit ffiffiffi

Dryer vent caPs are deliberately lighrweight so they'll open
easily, but this flimsiness also means they'll break easily. The

to attach the cap to the siding and cut through the

caulk around the edges (Photo 1). pull out the cap, scrape
used

with multiple small flaps, also clog

away old caulk and dirt, and then wipe the siding clea., so
with lint. (Avoid this t)?e unless you're conscientious new caulk will stick.

caps, especially the type

easily

about cleaning

it.)

To replace an old vent cap, first pull apart the duct at

the last joint inside the house. If the duct doesn't pull apart
easily, look for small screws holding the sections of pipe
together' Next, go outside and remove the screws or nails

Cut the old caulk with a utility knife and pull out the
vent from the outside.

Cut the new vent pipe to the same length as the old one,
then slide it through the wall. Screw the cap to the siding and
caulk around the edges with paintable caulk.
Finally, join the old duct inside the house to the new vent
(Photo2).Ventcapsareavailablefor$8athomecenters.

Insert the duct from the dryer into the new vent duct
and wrap the joint with metal tape.

SUPER-SIt\4PLE DVD HOLDER; SCUM PROOF YOUR SHOWER DOORS: REPLACE A BROKEN DRYER VENT CAP

11

Sffieed-dean for cheap

one likes cleaning the house,

Use a multipurpose cleaner

but you can make the chore

take a lot less time. Here are

Stop using four to six products to clean

your bathroom. Use one multipurpose
cleaner that does it all, such as Mr. Clean
Multi-Surfaces Cleaner with Febreze ($3
for 28 ozs.). With a multipurpose cleaner,
bathroom cleaning takes five minutes.

the best cleaning products to keep your house

sparkling and save you several hours of cleaning

per week. You won't have to spend a lot of

money either-most of the products that help
you work smarter cost less than $5.

mrclean.com

Yr*"#'f-h"*
old vacuum. A HEPA vacuum filter

(starting at $8) captures microscopic

airborne particulates. Old-fashioned
paper or conventional vacuum bags
capture only about 30 percent ofdust
and allergens, and blow the rest back

Use a stain remover

Stain removers like Super Iron
Out ($10 for 5 lbs.) make quick
work of rust stains in sinks, tubs
and toilets. Pour it onto a sponge
or add it to the water in the toilet
bowl, then scrub with the sponge

or a nylon-bristle brush. You can

get rid of most stains in less than

into the air.

five minutes.
su

m m it bra nds. co m

Use a Magic Eraser

A Mr. Clean
Magic Eraser
($3 for a two-

Use a disposercleaner
Forget lemons-clean and deodorize
your garbage disposer with a product
like Disposer Care ($4 for

of

six packets), in about I 5 seconds. Turn

rubs scuff and

grease marks
offthe wall.

packet of Disposer Care

mrctean.com

turn it on. Do

on the hot water, pour

into the disposer and

it once a week.
disposercare.com

Use Tide with Dawn

StainScrubbers

a package

pack) easily

Use Dishwasher

Magic

Dishwasher cleaning takes about five

g',,;1,ii'ip.,;;
with Dawn

Stain-Scrubbers

($6.50 for 50 ozs.), a detergent

that can handle stains in the wash
cycle, saves you valuable time.
tide.com

12

PRoJEcrs UNDER

$1 o

seconds with this method: put a

bottle of Dishwasher Magic ($5) in
the silverware basket and run an

;;,;*";"";r.s,c.com$)

Fixseamin wallpaper*
Repairing loose wallpaper seams is fairly simple
and doesn't require a steamer. |ust apply a seam

repair adhesive. It provides a solid bond and

keep the seams from coming loose. It's
available at paint stores and home centers for

will

less than $10.

Squirt the adhesive directly onto the wall

behind the loose seams, then press the edges
back into place. Use a roller or straightedge as
shown to firmly press the paper against the wall
and drive out any air bubbles. Wipe away any
excess adhesive with a damp sponge.

Clean chandeliers guickly

;f :J;;ffi :lltT,H.:ilH::1,:1"-#ilnT?,:,,.:.ilitll;H,9
a ladder. Want an easier way? Try a spray-on chandr
spread a plastic tarp on the floor or table under the ch
drips. Then turn off the light and spray the solurion on the chandelier until liquid
run (you'll use a lot ofspray, but it beats wiping). The spray rinses off

beads start to

the dust. The solution that's left evaporates quickly and doesn't leave water spots.
The spray works well on hanging crystals, but don't expect it to remove dust from
crevices. Buy

it for $10 from nancysilver.com or chandelierparts.com.

Better traction
on concrete
Paint stores sell additives that you mix with a gallon of
any type of paint or solid-color stain to give you better

traction on concrete surfaces. The additive won't change

the color of the paint or stain, but it provides texture to
improve traction. Don't expect a completely slip-resistant surface.

Stir the additive into the paint (one package per

gallon), then apply the paint with a paintbrush or roller.
If you're applying more than one coat, put the additive in
the final coat. The additive costs about $4.

Mix the nonskid floor additive with the paint. Then

apply the paint to give the surface a rough texture to
help prevent slips.

SPEED-CLEAN FOR CHEAP: FIX SEAI\-4S IN WALLPAPER; cLEAN cHANDELIERS QUIcKLY; BETIER TRAcTION ON coNcRETE

Stabi lize a

wobbly bookcase
arpet is held in place by tack strips placed along the
perimeter of the room. When you set your bookcase (or
any other furniture) over the strips, it won't sit level.
You have a couple of options to keep the bookcase stable. The

first is to pull the carpet free of the tack strip, cut out a strip of
padding where the front corners of the bookcase will sit, and
replace the padding with a wood shim that's the same thickness as
the tack strip, usually l/4 to 3/8 in. (Option 1 ).
Option 2 is to install adjustable feet (called gliders; $4 at home
centers) on the corners of the bookcase. They're simple to
install-just drill a hole and insert the feet. You won't have to
mess with the carpet, but the feet may be noticeable, which you
might not like.
Resist the temptation to simply remove the tack strip. The car-

pet can move, even under the weight of the bookcase, eventually
resulting in a carpet wrinkle in the room.
Regardless of the option you choose, secure the bookcase to
the wall so it can't tip over. A child climbing or pulling on an unsecured bookcase could knock it over (hundreds ofkids are injured
each year by falling furniture). Fasten a furniture strap to the wall
and the bookcase to keep it from tipping over. The straps cost
about $6 at Target and hardware stores. Or, fasten the bookcase to
the wall by driving 3-in. screws through the back of the bookcase
(at obscure locations) into studs (be sure you hit studs). A total

four screws-two screws into two studs-is plenty.

of

t*
l/,
'I
,N

:r

.i,\\
r, 1
,1

'

OPTION 1: Pu[l back the carpet. Measure from the wall the
width of the bookcase, cut away the padding, then insert shims
for the bookcase corners,

,Y!

0PTION 2: Drilt hotes and install

adjustable feet on the bookcase
corners to levet it from front to
back and side to side,

11

PRoJEcrs UNDER $ro

Rep*ir srnall holes in walls

Small holes caused by screws, hooks, wall fasteners or
drywall fasteners that pop up are simple to repair, but time
consuming because you almost always have to repaint the
walls. Nail pops are common and particularly irritating,
because you're likely to have more than one. But drywall
screws sometimes pop up too, as a result of damp framing
that dries out and shrinks during the first year or two in

utilityknife. This

is a good technique to use

Two coats of joint compound, applied with two swipes

surrounding wall so you don't build up

The first step of the fix is to drive nails back down using a
nail set (Photo 1). If you have screws, dig the drywall com-

to blend with the surrounding wall.

utility knife and turn them in

Then dimple the hole slightly concave with a hammer to

indent any raised edges. But take care not to crush the drywall core. In addition, cut away any paper tears with a sharp

Drive a popped nail betow

the surface of the drywall with
a hammer and a nail set. Cut
away loose joint compound and
paper shreds.

of

putty knife in a "+" pattern, should fill the holes (photo 3).
The first coat will shrink a bit, leaving a slightly smaller dent
to be filled by the second coat. Scrape the excess off the
a

new construction.

pound from their heads with

tight with a screwdriver.

with old wall fas-

teners as well. It's usually easier to tap them into the wall
slightly rather than pull them out.

hump. Sand lightly

Be sure to prime the spot before painting

it. Otherwise
will absorb into the patch and make the area look
different from the surrounding paint. Use a roller when
the paint

priming to help raise the surface texture to match the surroundingwall.

Drive drywall screws about

7-t/2 in. above and below the

popped nai[. Sink the screw head just
below the surface of the drywait.

Fil[ the holes with joint

compound, swiping first across
the holes, then down. Let dry
apply a second coat, then sand,
prime and paint.

Quick fix for a wobbly table leg

Got a table leg, a swing set or just about any other item with chronically
loose nuts and bolts? Here's a quick fix to keep metal threads tight once

and for all (not for plastics) using color-coded Loctite Threadblocker
products.

Loctite Threadblocker Blue 242 (97 ar home cenrers) is great for

locking together 114-in.- to 3/4-in.-diameter fasteners. Blue creates a
strong hold but can be broken free to unscrew the fastener when necessary. Red Loctite 271 ($7) is for larger fasteners and more permanent
connections for swing sets, decks and ready-to-assemble furniture.
With either color, you just squeeze a little Loctite adhesive onto the
threads and then tighten the fastener. The bond will set in 20 minutes
and cure completely in 24 hours. The Loctite adhesive prevents fasteners
from vibrating loose or rusting. It also does a good job of sealing metal
plugs in water or air tanks.

Clean and dry the parts. Appty Loctite Threadblocker Blue

to the fastener threads and reassemble the table.
STABILIZE A WOBBLY BOOKCASE; REPAIR SMALL HOLES IN WALLS; QUICK FIX FOR A WOBBLY TABLE LEG

Patch wallg with aluminum

he traditional method of repairing holes in walls is to
square the hole, put wood backing behind it, cut and
screw on a drywall patch, and then tape the edges.
Aluminum patches, available at home centers and paint and
hardware stores for $2 to $4, give the same results with much less

or overlapped as needed.
Tiowel on the first coat ofjoint compound over
the patch, spreading the compound flat enough to see
the outline of the mesh through it (Photo 2).

Allow the compound to dry overnight, then apply a wider

third coat after the

thin coats extending

work. The patches, which come in 4-, 6- and 8-in. sizes, are stiff
enough to span holes and thin enough to disappear after taping

second coat (Photo 3), followed by a final,

and painting.

Select a patch large enough to overlap the hole on all sides

by an inch, then stick the patch on (Photo 1). Patches can be cut

and paint (Photo 4).

second coat dries. Spread the compound in

to

12 in. beyond the patch in all directions.

After the final coat has dried overnight, sand it smooth, prime

Spread the first coat of joint compound over

a wide taping knife. Let it dry overnight.

4 Ctean off broken edges and tears around the hole. Then
l.ou.r the hote entirety with the patch, sticky side toward

the patch with

the wa[t.

3
16

it's dry, recoat the patch and then feather out the
compound on atl sides to make the patch blend in.

When

PROJECTS UNDER $1

/.
e'*

the patched area with a sanding sponge until

smooth and even.

Sand

it

feets

Balanceaceilingfan
If your ceiling fan wobbles and makes more
balanced washing machine load, this

racket than an

s}

,n-

'*

the blade holder is firmiy screwed into the fan fl',vheel. Remove

fan
wobble is caused by
imbalances in the fan

fix is for you. Ceiling

anydustorbuildupfromthefalbladeswithahouseholdcleaner.
Run the fan to check the wobble and to dry the fan blades. If the
wobble persists, one of the blades may be out of alignment.
Check blade alignment with a yardstick by measuring the dis-

blades or blade hoid-

l
:

ers, misalignment of
blades, excess dust
accumulation or just
loose blade holder

...i

,: I -

,l

tance from the edge of any blade to the ceiling (photo l), and
make a note of the distance. Measure all the other blades in
exactly the same manner. If any blade is out of alignment, gently
bend the blade holder up or down until the blade is in line with

.i:

;rl-,

mounting screws.

;":

its
smooth-running days
before you wear down
the moving parts.

Turn the fan on to see if it spins smoothly. If it still wobbles,

pick up a blade balancing kit (g6) from a hardware store or home

First, make sure

tightly screwed into

Photo 2 shows how to attach the balancing clip and pinpoint

the wobble. Once you've found the best location for the clip,
install a balancing weight on the blade as shown in photo 3. Add

the blade holder, and

more weight if needed to get a smooth-running fan.

:rr"j

Restore your fan to

.*:.,,

all the biades are

:,

t*"hr.

the others.

center. The balancing clip

will balance the fan blades, eliminating

the wobble.

;.

)E

t,

suae the balancing ctip on the

trailing edge of any blade. haifway

between the holder and tip. Run the fan
to check the wobble. Repeat with each
blade, noting which one most reduced
the wobbte, then slide the clip in small
increments away from the center of that
blade. Move the clip, operate the fan,
then move it again until you eliminate
as much wobble as possible.

Q
J
{I

Measure the distance from the

ceiling to the edge of a blade with

blades (most blades are angled, so be

sure to measure on the same side of atl

the bLades).

ffimc$m$nx

adhesive-backed ba[ancing weight on the

top center of the
btade directly in [ine
with the ba[ancing clip.

a yardstick. Hold the yardstick stil[ and

rotate the fan to measure the other
ADHESIVE-

BACKEDWEtcttt

*rrusty

reet off the backing and stick the

':*

r'

J?
'flYf"'+.51i-

ADHESIVE.BACKED

pm*mt

You don't have to toss out old paint just because it contains a few
gooey globs or chips. Instead, filter out the bad bits with a disposable paint strainer (about g1). Two types of strainers are readily

available at home centers and paint and hardware stores: the cone
type and the mesh type, which does the job faster but is a bit messier
to use. Keep in mind that old acrylic latex paint may not stand up to

the elements as well as new paint. So if you have leftover exterior

paint that's more than four years old, play it safe and buy new paint.
Better to spend

a few

bucks now than to scrape peeling paint later.

.-

PATCH WALLS WITH ALUN4]NUl\/: BALANCE A CEILING FANI RECLAIM CRUSTY PAINT

Caulk

cracked
concrete

-*.

#sg

racks and gaps in concrete are more than just an eyesore.

Water can get into the joints, freeze and then expand,
making the cracks even larger. Gaps against a house can
direct water against the foundation, leading to more problems.
Once a year, go around your home and filI these gaps and joints

with urethane caulk to prevent problems. The caulk

is available at

contractor supply stores, home centers and hardware stores for

about $5 per tube. For gaps and joints more than l/4 in. wide,
install foam backer rod to support the caulk. You want the rod to
fit tight in the joint, so buy it one size larger than the gap. It costs
about $3 per 20 ft.
Keep the urethane caulk offyour bare hands and clothes; it's
the stickiest stuff you'll ever touch. Wear disposable gloves when
you're tooling the joints. If you get some on your skin, quickly
wipe it offwith a paint thinner-dampened cloth.

{
I

fusn foam backer rod into the gap with your fingers. Set
the rod 1/4 in. lower than the surface of the concrete.

) fnthe crack with urethane cautk. Snip the opening of the

E tube at a 30-degree angle, making the opening the same

Q
rJ

size as your gap. Use a smooth, even motion, fi[ing the crack
flush with the surface, beveling it if it's against the house.
Smooth the caulk in wide joints with the back of an old spoon.
Wipe the spoon clean as needed with a rag and mineral spirits.

tip

Cautt< cracks 7/4 in. wide or less without using backer rod.
Draw the gun down the crack, smoothing the caulk with the
as you go.

18

PRoJEcrs UNDER $io

Floor-friendly feet for furniture

Most manufacturers put small

metal buttons on furniture

legs. Metal feet slide easily
across factory and warehouse

floors, but they can damage

any type of hard flooring in

your house (even ceramic

tile). On carpet,

spilled

drink

can even lead to rust stains, So

whenever you get a new piece

of furniture, go to your local

home center or hardware

store, where you'll find a
variety of furniture feet for
less

than $5.

,l
I

Remoue metat buttons on furniture tegs.

a button is sunk deep into the wood and
you can't pry it out, dritt a 1/4-in. hote and
lever it out with a small screwdriver.

If

StrX setf-adhesive pads to the

[egs or drive in nail-type feet.
0n hardwood legs, dritl a pilot hote
stightty smaller than the nait shank.

)
E

Pads
Felt or cloth pads are
gentle on ftoors, but

they don't stide as

easily as plastic feet.

ff1,1:"1
of
because

:,5."*,:: il: T,.:":,:::

rising copper prices, so rebuilding old, damaged ones with

new plugs or receptacle ends ($5) is a smart move.

(Photo I ). Don't push the blade in-just score the rubber jacket gently until you
can
tear the rubber off, so you don't accidentally cut into one ofthe wires.
strip the wires (look for a stripping gauge on the plug or in the instructions),
then separate the wires and screw them into place. This step can be fussp especially

with stiff l2-gauge wire, but resist the temptation to cut the insulation jacket backthe more of the jacket you can leave inside the plug, the less likely it is to tear or pull
Make a sha[low cut lengthwise through the
outer jacket, then tightty score around the
cord until you can break the jacket off.

out of the plug clamp when the cord is yanked out of an outlet.
close the plug and screw it together tightly so the cord is locked in. This replacement plug had a reversible gasket with a curved side for heary cords. other types use
screws to hold the cord in place.
Twist the
wires

tight, then
screw them

into the

plug-black
to the gold
screw, white

to sitver,
green to
green.

strip the wires to the length indicated in the strip gauge,

leaving as much of the outer jacket as possible.
Cut and

CAULK CRACKED C0NCRETE; FL00R-FRIENDLY FEET FOR FURNITURE; REPATR 0LD EXTENSTON CORDS

19

Unclog a tub drain

without chemicals

bout 80 percent of the time, you can fix slow-draining or

clogged tub drains in five minutes, without chemicals and
without a $100 plumber bill. In most cases, you'll only
stiffwire or a bent coat hanger. The problem is usuallyjust a sticky wad ofhair that collects on the crossbars,
a few inches under the stopper. All you need to do is figure out how
to remove the stopper (that's almost always easy) and fish out the
gunk. Bend a little hook on the end of the stiff wire with a needle-nose
pliers and shove it through the clog-you'll nearly always extract the
entire ugly mess. If hair is wrapped around the crossbars, slice through it
with a utility knife and then grab it with the wire.
Follow this series of photos to determine which type of stopper you
have and how to remove it. The most common type, a drop stopPer

Drop stoppers

need a screwdriver and a

(shown at right), has

a setscrew

located under the cap.

Pushflock drain stoppers

These stoppers lock and seal when you press
them down and release when you push

down L
isn't I
the \

time. The way to remove them

,
so obvious. In most cases you have to hold
stem while unscrewing the cap as shown. With
the cap off, you can sometimes fish out the hair
from the crossbars. Otherwise simply remove the entire
shaft by unscrewing it. You may have to adjust the screw
a second

tension on the stem when you reinstall everything to get a

good seal.

Hold the stopper shaft tightty with a finger and unscrew

the top.

20

spEcrAL sECTroN: 10-MtNUTE ptuMBtNG FIxES

Lift the stopper and loosen the screw on the shaft

stightty. Stide the stopper off the shaft.

"*\\
Levered stoppers

ilxT::::T:il:1#H#::T:L1t"T

[T.,P**B

Most ofthese have a lever on the overflow plate and

a screen over the drain. The screen keeps most hair
out of the drain, but some gets through and eventually
forms a clog at the crossbars. Simply unscrew the screen for easy
access to this clog and remove it as before, If the drain has an
internal stopper, simply unscrew the overflow plate and pull the
linkage and stopper up and out. Then clean the linkage and stopper and run water down the drain to flush it out.
Occasionally the linkage is out of adjustment and the stopper
doesn't open far enough from its seat to allow a good flow. Adjust
it, reinsert it and test it. Run water into the tub. If it leaks out,
Iengthen the stopper linkage to seal the drain better. If the drain

- ,/

doesn't open to let the water out, shorten the stopper linkage.

.;J
If,;s

First remove the screen and clean the crossbars. Then unscrew
the overflow plate, pull out the linkage, clean the stopper and
linkage, and rinse the drainpipes. Readjust the tinkage if
necessary. Reinstatl the assembly.

Replace a teaky water valve

The key to replacing a leaky water valve is to use a special
"slip" or "no-stop" coupling (available at home centers for
less than $3). Unlike traditional couplings,
no-stop couplings don't have a flange or

dimple that stops the plumbing pipe

once it's inserted halfiuay into the cou-

pling. This lets you install the coupling and move it back out of the
way) then have room to insert the
new section ofpipe.

Turn off the water, then cut the

pipe about 6 in. from each side of
the leaky valve, using a pipe cutter
or a hacksaw. Place the no-stop
coupling over the existing pipe. Cut a
new section ofpipe to replace the piece
you cut out (be sure to factor in the

fl\

.STOPPED"
COUPLING
{TWO

swLEs)

Move the no-stop coupling over the pipe assembly, then

install the new valve and pipe assembly.

"NO-STOP"
COUPLING

length of the water valve). Solder the

pipe to the valve, then stick the assembled section between the two existing
pipes. Move the no-stop coupling over
the new pipe, then solder all the joints.

Move the no-stop coupling over the pipe assembly, then

sotder

it to the

assembly and the existing pipe.

SPECIAL SECTION: 1O-MINUTE PLUN4BING FIXES

fix for a slow-fitling washer

Fast

lf **i*.*#.T*ffr}i.']

plugged inlet screens. These screens catch debris in

the water supply and protect a washer's internal parts.
Often, screens clog after a remodeling project or after

work by city crews on water mains. Any work on

water lines can loosen sediment in pipes and lead to
plugged screens.

Cleaning the screens is a simple job. The only

tricky part is removing the screens without wrecking
them (Photo l). Don't just yank them out. Gently
squeeze and twist as you pull.You'll distort the screens
a little, but you can mold them back into shape
with your fingers.
If your screens are cemented in
place by mineral deposits, you may

not be able to remove them

without

damage. A new pair of screens

will

cost about $5 at an appliance parts

store. Clean the screens with

run-

ning water or blow out debris

with

an air compressor. You may have

to

pick and scrape away stubborn

particles with

utility knife.

tip

turn off the hot and cotd water supplies and

disconnect the hoses. Use a pair of needle-nose
pliers to gently remove the screens for cleaning.

'lI

cn..r

your washer
suppty hoses, too.
Some contain
screens that can be
removed and
cteaned just tike
inlet screens.
Wort<the clean screen back into the intet by pressing around the
rim of the screen with a small screwdriver. Reconnect the hoses,
turn on the water and check for leaks.

)
Ir

22

spEctAL sECTI0N: 10-MtNUTE PLUMBING FIxES

Quiet clanking pipes

If your plumbing bangs and clangs like

metal, you've got "water hammer." Water developt momen-

yffo

tum

as

it flows

ARBESTER

fast through pipes. When a

valve closes quickly and stops the

flow that

momentum shakes and pounds pipes.

Water hammer arresters cure this condition with a cushion of air that absorbs the
momentum. Before you install
SLIDING

PISION

arresters, determine which faucets

or valves in your house cause the

noise. Washing mac$ines and{
dishwashers are prirge
because

close fast. Arresters

WATER

MOMENTUM

sgfo.glg

their automatic
for washing

machines have screw-on connec-

tions, making them as easy to

attach as a garden hose, Other arresters
connect directly

to ll2-in. pipe, often

under sinks.You usually have to cut pipes

and add tees to install them. Check the
packagitrg for installation details. Arresters
cost a6out $10 each at home centers and
hardware stores.

Fix a slow-running

faucet

If the flow from your kitchen or bathroom faucet is weak,

the aerator is probably plugged. An aerator can clog slowly
as mineral deposits build up, or quickly after plumbing
work loosens debris inside pipes. Usually, a quick cleaning

l) and disassemble it. You may need a small screwdriver or knife to pry
the components apart. Scrub away any tough buildup with
solves the problem. Remove the aerator (Photo

an old toothbrush (Photo 2) and rinse each part thoroughly.

Gunk can also build up inside the faucet neck, so ream it out
with your finger and flush out the loosened debris.
If the mineral buildup resists scrubbing and you have a
standard cylinder-shaped aerator, you can replace

trt

it (about

ID

$5). Take your old aerator along to the home center or hard-

ware store to find a match.

Ifyour aerator

has a fancy shape

(like the one shown here), finding a match won t be as simple. So try this first: Soak the aerator parts in vinegar
overnight to soften mineral buildup. Ifthat doesrt't work, go
to any online search engine and type in the brand of your
faucet followed by "faucet parts." With a little searching, you
can

find diagrams ofyour faucet and order

a new aerator,

E4pect to spend $10 or more for a nonstandard aerator.

rt
I

Wrap the jaws of a pair of

pliers with electricat tape
and unscrew the aerator. Close
the stopper so the small parts
can't fall down the drain.

@r:d

Oisassembte the aerator

and lay out the parts in
the order you remove them to
make reassembly foolproof.
Scrub the parts and reassemble

J
L

them.
spEctAL sECTt0N: 10-MtNUTE pLUMBtNG

FtxEs

23

trick for splicing in

plastic drainpipe

When working with plastic pipe, don't try to cement (solvent-weld) all the new
couplings when replacing a section at

junction. Most drain systems use rigid

pipes fairly large in diameter. You can't flex them enough to slide on that last

fit-

ting and get it to seat fully. Rather than struggle with cement, pros use a "mission" coupling (Photos 3 and 4) that clamps over the last joint. Even though a
mission coupling costs $5 to $10, compared with a 500 plastic coupling, the
extra cost is worth it. Sometimes, pros will even use two mission couplings in
tight situations. Photos 1 - 4 walk you through the process. Be sure to buy couplings with full steel sleeves, and make sure mission couplings meet code
requirements in your area.

Keep your washing

ffi1":-:':"::"n:,.9
between loads and only wash a couple

of

loads per week, you'll probabiy notice a

moldy smell after a few months. That's

ultra-tight
seal on front loader
doors doesn't let the

because the

interior dry,

and

between washings,mold

can grow inside the

damp confines. And
because front loaders
use less water than top

loaders (which fill up

almost to the top), they
don't always wash away the mold when
you run a load oflaundry.
Eliminating the mold is easy. Just run
the empty washer through a cycle once a
month with a mold cleaner designed for
front loaders, such as Affresh. Buy it at
whirlpool.com ($7 for a pack ofthree) or
find retailers at affresh.com. If you don't

sry and assembte matching

replacement parts. Mark the
cutting points on the old drains
about 1/2 in. larger than the
reptacement.

'lI

a
G

the plastic at a right angte

using a fine-tooth saw and
Cut

remove the assembly.

want to use the tablets, you can substitute

a cup ofbleach.

You can prevent mold by treating

the washer monthly with a mold cleaner
or bleach and keeping the door open

between washings so the interior can

dry out.

?
J

stia. the mission coupting

onto one pipe and cement

plastic couptings onto the other
two pipes.
21

SPECIAL SECTI0N: 10-MINUTE PLUMBING FIXES

L
rt

Center the mission coupting

ouer the third joint and tighten
the bands firmly.

26
31
32

Cookware organizer

33

Instant organizer

Kitchen cabinet rolt-outs

Customize your
kitchen cabinets
Measuring cup hang-up
Spice holder

34 Fix a drippy batt-type faucet

36 Make oLd windows like new
4A Renew tired-tooking windows
47 Two-story ctoset shetves
Ctoset nook shelves

42
45
46
47

How

to stop a running toilet

Easy-to-buil"d shoe storage

Laundry room improvement
Upgrade your recessed lights
Test for lead

SPECIAL SECTI0N: Free

48
49

projects

Extend the tife of your

water heater
Free a sticking storm door
SeaI a drafty door

50
5t
52

Fix a door [atch that

won't catch
Prevent bathroom motd
Stripped hinge screw fix

Stop washing machine walk

Doubte the Ufe of

your paintbrushes

l:

I
I

I
I

ase cabinets have the least convenient storage space

in

The project will go faster if you have a table saw and a miter
circular saw and cutting guide will work
too; it'll just take a little longer. You can build a pair of roll-outs in

the entire kitchen. To access it, you have to stooP way

over or even get down on your knees and then sort
through all the stuffin front to find that particular omelet pan or
storage container in the back. What a pain. Roll-outs solve that
problem. They make organizing and accessing your cabinet con-

saw to cut all the pieces. A

tents back-friendly and frustration free.

These

If you're stuck with cabinets without roll-outs, don't despair.

The following pages show you how to retrofit nearly any base cabinet with roll-outs that'll work as well or better than any factory-

built units.
Building the roll-outs is really very easy. Once you take measurements, you can build the roll-out drawer (Photos 2 - 6), its
"carrier" (Photos 7 - 9), and attach the drawer slides (Photos 6
and 7) in your garage or workshop. Mounting the unit in the
cabinet is simple too (Photos 10 - 13). You'll also learn how to
construct

26

a special

PRoJEcrs

roll-out for recycling or trash (Photos

$1 o

ro

$2b

14

5).

a Saturday

morning for about $20 per shelf.

What wood products to buy

roll-out drawers are made entirely of ll?-in. Baltic birch
plywood. Baltic birch is favored by cabinetmakers because it's
"void free," meaning that the thin veneers of the plywood core are
solid wood. Therefore sanded edges will look smooth and attractive. If your home center doesn't stock Baltic birch, you can find
it at any hardwood specialty store (look under "Hardwood
Suppliers" in the yellow pages to find a source). Baltic birch may
only come in 5 x 5-ft. sheets, so don't expect to fit it in a minivan.
But home centers often carry smaller pieces.

If you choose, you can make the sides of the roll-out drawers
from any lx4 solid wood that matches your cabinets and then

LENGTH: OPENING MINUS

Z-tl2"

WIDTH:3-1l2"

SIDE
3-112" x22"

finish them to match your cabinets (use plywood for the bases). But if you use 3/4-in. material for the sides, subtract 3 in. from the door
opening to build the roll-out (not 2-112 in' as
described in Photo 2).

The drawer carriers (Figure A) are made

from pine 1x4s for the sides (Photo 7) and ll4in. MDF (medium density fiberboard) for the
bases (Photo 9). The

MDF keeps the drawer

properly while you shim and attach
it to the cabinet sides. It can be removed and
reused for other carriers after installation. If
MDF isn't available, substitute any other l/4-in.
hardboard or plywood.
base spaced

Side-mounted slides are the best choice

among drawer slide options. Their ballbearing mechanisms and precise fit make

314" x3-112" x22"

for smooth-operating drawers that hold 90 lbs.

or more. These roll-outs feature 22-in. fullextension KV brand side-mount drawer slides

that have a 90-lb. weight rating. That means

they'll be sturdy enough even for a drawer full

Figure B

of canned goods. Full-extension slides allow the

,:r'i

roll-out to extend completely past the cabinet

front so you can access all the contents. Expect
to pay about $6 to $15 per set ofslides at any

;i:i

Carrier
assembly

!:

+',

114" MDF

3/4" x3-112" x22"

f. i,l'.

II

home center or well-stocked hardware store.

Measure carefully
before you build
Nearly all standard base cabinets
23-ll4in.

d,eep

are

from the inside of the face frame

to the back of the cabinet. So in most cases,22in.-long roll-out drawer and carrier sides wili
clear the cabinet with room to spare. Check

your cabinets to make sure that 22-in. roll-outs

will work. If you have shallower cabinets, sub-

Drawer assembly
all 1/2" plywood

SIDE
3-112" x22"

tract whatever is necessary when you build your

roil-outs and their carriers (see Figure A).

Then measure the cabinet width. The

drawer has to clear the narrowest part of the
opening (Photo 1). When taking this measure-

ment, include hinges that protrude into the

opening, the edge of the door attached to the
hinges, and even the doors that won't open
completely because they hit nearby appliances
or other cabinets. Plan on making the drawer
open the
cabinet
doors to their

'lI

front and rear parts 2-l12 in. shorter than the

opening (Figure A).
Drawers

with 3-l12-in.-high sides

are

widest point

shown here, but you can customize your own.

Plan on higher sides for lightweighr plastic
storage containers or other tall or tippy items,
and lower sides for stable, heavier items like

and measure

the narrowest
part of the
cabinet opening
(usually at the

small appliances.

hinges).
KITCHEN CABINEI

ROLL.OUTS 27

A
L

nip 1/2-in. plywood down to 3-1/2-in.-wide strips and cut

two 22-in. tengths (drawer sides) and two more to the
measured width (from Photo 1) minus 2-t/2 in. (drawer front

CUrp or screw two straight l2-in.2x4s to the corner of

ftat surface to use as an assembly jig. Use a carpente/s
square to ensure squareness. Leave a 2-in. gap at the corner.

Q
J

and back; Figure A).

L
A]

spread wood glue on the ends and clamp a drawer side

.iO front in

then pin the corner together with three

l-714-in. brads. Repeat for the other three corners.
p-lace,

Drawer slides aren't as

confusing astheyseem
At first glance, drawer slides are pretty hard to figure out, but after
you install one set, youll be an expert. They're sold in pairs and
each ofthe pairs has trvo parts. The "drawer part" attaches to the
roll-out while the "cabinet part" attaches to the carrier. To separate
them for mounting, slide them out to full length and then push,
pull or depress a plastic release to separate the two parts. The
release button position and shape vary among manufacturers, but
ifyou look at the directions, youll be able to figure it out. The
cabinet part, which always encloses the drawer part, is the larger
of the two, and the mounting screw hole locations will be shown
(Screws are included with the drawer slides.)
The oversized holes allow for some adjustment, but if you follow
the instructions, you shouldn't have to fuss with fine-tuning later.

in the directions.

28

PROJECTS $1 o

ro

$25

Cut a t/2-in. plywood bottom to size. Appty a thin bead of

gtue to the bottom edges, and nail one edge of the plywood
flush with a side, spacing nails every 4 in. Then push the frame
against the jig to sguare it and nait the other three edges.

f,
J

When mounting the slides, make sure to hold them flush with the
front ofthe roll-out drawer and carrier sides (Photos 6 andT).
The front of the drawer part usually has a bent metal stop that
faces the

front ofthe drawer.

Assembling parts
and finishing the roll-outs
It's important to build the roll-out drawers perfectly square for
them to operate properly. Photos 3 and 4 show a simple squaring
jig that you can clamp to a corner of any workbench to help. Use
the jig to nail the frame together, but even more important, to
hold the frame square when you nail on the bottom panel. If
it hangs over the sides even a little, the drawer slides won't
work smoothly.
Use l-1/4-in. brads for all of the assembly. Glue the drawer

Separate the drawer stides and space the drawer part

7/4 in. up from the bottom. Hold it fl.ush to the front
and screw it to the rott-out side.

f,
V

Mount the carrier part of the drawer slide ftush with the
and front of the carrier sides.

7 bottom

Stia" the drawer and carrier sides together and measure the
carrier width. Cut 7/4-in. MDF to that width and 1 in. less
than the carrier depth (usually 21 in.).

Q
t/

parts together but not the bottom ofthe carrier. It only serves

as a

temporary spacer for mounting. (After mounting the carrier and

drawer, you can remove it if it catches items on underlying
drawers or even reuse it for other carriers.) Ifyou'd like to finish
the roll-out for a richer look and easier cleaning, sand the edges

with 120-grit paper and apply a couple of coats of water-based

pollurethane before mounting the slides.
To figure the spacer thickness, rest the lower carrier on the
bottom of the shelf, push it against one side of the cabinet and
measure the gap on the other (Photo l0). Rip spacers to halfthat
measurement and cut six of them to 3-112 in. long. Slip the spacers between both sides of the carrier to check the fit. They should
slide in snugly but not tightly. Recut new spacers if you have to. In
out-of-square cabinets, you may have to custom-cut spacers for
each

ofthe three pairs ofspacers,

so check each

ofthe three spacer

Q
J

nest the carrier assembly on 3/4-in.-thick spacers, puI the

carrier sides slightly away from the drawer, then nail on

the carrier bottom (no glue).

positions. It's easiest to tack the spacers to the roll-outs to hold

them in place before predrilling l/8-in. holes and running the
screws through the roll-out frames and spacers and into the cabinet sides (Photo i t ).
Slip the roll-out into its carrier and check for smooth opera-

tion. If you followed the process, it should work perfectly. If it

binds, it's probably because the spacers are too wide or narrow
Pull out the carrier, remove the spacers and start the spacer
process all over again.

The best way to level and fasten the upper roll-out is to support it on temporary plywood spacers (Photo 12). The height of
the spacers is up to you. If, for example, you want to store tall
boxes of cereal on the bottom roll-out and shorter items on the
top, space the top roll-out higher. You can even build and install
three or more roll-outs in one cabinet for mega storage of short
KITCHEN CABINET

ROLL-OUTS 29

'lIVfl
rip

n"tou. the drawer, tip the carrier into the cabinet and
pustr the carrier against one side. Measure the gap and
six 3-l/2-in.-[ong spacers to half of the thickness.

4 a
I 4

Cut ptywood spacers to temporarity support the upper

rott-out and set them onto the carrier below. Rest
the second carrier on the spacers and instatl it as shown in

Photo 11.
items like cans, cutlery or beverages. (Those now-obsolete shelves

you're replacing with roll-outs are good stock to use for your
spacers.) Again, pin the spacers in place

with a brad or two to hold

{ el lait the spacers to the center and each end of the

I I carrier sides (not into the cabineti see inset photo).
Then predrill and screw the carrier sides to the cabinet in the
center of each spacer. Stide the drawer back into place.

euifU an upside-down version of the carrier and rottouts for the wastebasket drawer (Figure B). Center and
trace around the rim of the wastebasket(s). Use a compass to
mark the opening 1/2 in. smaller.

{ Q
*rJ

This wastebasket roil-out is built inside an 18-in.-wide

Ifyou only have

cabinet, to fit two plastic containers back to back.

a 15-in. cabinet to

work with, you may be limited to one container

them while you're predrilling and screwing the carriers to the cab-

mounted sideways. Buy your containers ahead of time to fit

inet sides. Be sure to select screw lengths that won't Penetrate

your opening.

exposed cabinet sides! In most cases, 1-5/8-in. screws are the best

With some wastebasket roll-outs, you may need to knock the

MDF free from the carriers after mounting so the wastebasket lips
will clear. That's OK; it won't affect operation.
It may not always work to center roll-out assemblies in all
openings with equal spacers on each side. That's especially true
with narrow single cabinets that only have one pair ofhinges. It's
best to test things before permanent mounting. But if you make a
mistake, it's a simple matter to unscrew the assembly, adjust the

choice. Strive

for 1/2-in. penetration into the cabinet sides. Coun-

tersink the heads

as

far

as necessary

to get the proper penetration.

Building wastebasket rol l-outs

Wastebasket roll-outs are just upside-down versions of standard

roll-outs. That is, the carrier is mounted on the top rather than
the bottom of the roll-out and the slides are positioned at the
bottom edge ofthe carrier sides. That lets the wastebasket lip clear
the MDF. Follow Figure B on p. 27 for the details.

30

PRoJEcrs

$1 o

ro

$2s

spacers and remount everything.

Building roll-outs in
cabinets with center dividers
I4:;:;:::.-in'

startins hores and cut the openings with

Many two-door cabinets have a center divider

(photo abovel, which cat[s for a stightty different
strategy. You can stitt buitd rolt-outs, but

they'1.1.

be

narrower versions on each side of the divider.

[Check to be sure they won't be so narrow that
they're impracticat.) The key is to instatI
3/4-in. ptywood, particl.eboard or
MDF panel. between the

center

iJ:ffi :t1[T1?;::j "'*

/,, *t

ffi{#{l#/ffi

to support the top ro[tout position. Center the

pane[ on the back side
and middLe of the divider
and screw it into p[ace with

1-in. ang[e brackets [they're

'lIrf f

fUount the wastebasket carrier and drawer as shown in

Photos 10 and 11.

completety out of sight). Use a carpenter's square to position the panet perfectty centered
and verticaI on the cabinet back and anchor it there,

again using ang[e brackets. Measure, buitd and

insta[t the rotl-outs as shown.

Cookware

organizer
Most kitchen base cabinets lack vertical storage
for big, flat cookware like cookie sheets

space

and, pizza pans. To provide it, just remove the

lower shelf, cut a vertical panel ofplywood and
fasten it at the cabinet bottom with furniture
braces and at the top with a strip of wood. Drill
holes for the adjusting pins to match the original locations and trim the shelfto length.

KITCHEN CABINET ROLL-OUTS: COOKWARE ORGANIZER

31

Customize
your kitchen cabinets

you have

short cabinet flanked

by two taller cabinets, you can

add this combination shelf/

Buitd a shelf to fit snugly between adjacent cabinets. Use a jigsaw to create curved
brackets, nail wine glass brackets to the bottom of the shelf, then instatt the entire
unit as one piece.

wine rack.

Cut the shelf to length, then add

mounting strips on each end. Cut four
9-in. sections of wine glass molding from
a 3-ft. length, then glue and nail them
to the bottom of the pine shelf. Wine
glass molding is available from Rockler
(rockler.com, item No. 22210). A 24-in.
length costs $13. Cut curved brackets
from each end bf a lx6 maple board and
cut the center 1 in. wide to serve as shelf
edging. Finally, install the unit by driving
screws through the mounting strips and

into the cabinets on each side.

To display your plates and keep them
accessible and chip-free, build and install
this plate rack. The total cost of materials

is about$15.
To create the two plate rack "ladders,"

Cut, assemble and install the two plate rack "tadders." Use short screws to secure the
tadders in the cabinet opening. Set the rear ladder 4 in. away from the back of the
cabinet and the front ladder snug against the back of the face frame.

build each ladder so the finished height equals the

height of the inside of the cabinet. The
finished width should be equal to the
width of the face frame opening. Drill

square dowels and space them every

1-112 in. Cut the dowels to length, add
a drop of glue in each hole, insert the
dowels, then use elastic cords or clamps

drill, a steady hand and a 3/8-in. drill bit

with masking tape wrapped around it as a

3/8-in. holes, 3/8 in. deep in 3/4-in. x 3/4-in.

hold things together until the glue

depth guide for the holes in the rails.

measure the cabinet, then

32

PRoJEcrs $10

ro

$2s

to
dries.

A drill press comes in handy, but you

can also get good results using a cordless

lnstant organizer
Y';:;T[::l j:.': t*Tfi:::]:',
length with a hacksaw

screws to the back side o

hold the racks in place. The back side of the rack

simply rests against the back of the cabinet. Now
you can easily find your soup and check the rest of
your inventory at a glance.

Measuring cup

L:*:,:f,n.*@

ing measuring cups inside

a kitchen
cabinet. Position and mount a wood strip

so that the cups will hang between the

shelves and allow the door to close completely. Mount a second strip for your
measuring spoons, then screw in cup hooks
on both strips.

Spice
holder
If your spices are
jammed into a drawer
with only the tops
visible, this nifty rack

that slips neatly into

the drawer will solve

the problem. And

it

only takes an hour to

build. Make it wirh l/4-in.
and l/2-in.plywood.

CUST0I'llZE Y0UR KITCHEN CABINETS; INSTANT ORGANIZER; N4EASURING CUP HANG-UPi SPTCE HOLDER

Fix a drippy

ball-

type.r
faucet
hen your single-lever, ball-

you'll have to use some force with the

tlpe faucet starts dripping,

it's time to replace the

Allen wrench to loosen the screw.

parts inside. You'll know you have a

ball-type faucet (vs. a cartridge type) if
it has a dome-shape cap under the

handle (Figure A). This is an easy

repair. Once you have the parts, the
whole thing will take about 45 minutes
and you'll save a whopping $ 125 doing
it yourself)
Everything you need is available in

Your repair kit may include two different versions of the same part, one

for newer and one for older-model

faucets. Use the same version as the

existing parts. Most repair kits come

with a hollow stainless steel ball. This
will work well and last longer than the
original plastic ball you might find if

kit ($15 at home centers).

Most kits include the ball, springs,

yours is an older faucet. Ifyour faucet

uses an older-style, two-part cam-the
plastic cam and a separate cam sealand your kit comes with only the newer

seats, O-rings and an Allen wrench.

combined version (see Photo 2), go

You'll also need to pick up faucet

ahead and use the combined version.

grease ($2). There are several different

]ust make sure to discard the existing

adjusting ring located in the cap of

a repair

models and types of ball-style faucets,

so first follow these instructions to

take apart your faucet. Then note the
brand and take the old faucet parts
along to the store to make sure you buy
Before you disassemble your old
faucet, turn off the water at the fixture

shutoff valves under the sink or your

home's main water valve if the individual shutoffs are missing (now is a good

time to install some!). Cover the sink

drain hole with a rag to avoid losing
small parts down the drain.
The only tricky part ofthis repair is

first locating and then loosening the

Allen setscrew (see Photo 1) that
anchors the handle to the stem. The
screw is typically hidden under the

31

If

PROJEcTS $1 o

your faucet or the handle won't fit

r-ltt the handte, pry off the decorative

with your fingernail or a ftat-blade

couer

screwdriver, then loosen the A[ten screw

underneath and lift the handte free.

correctly when you reassemble it.

i. j _.

the right repair kit.

decorative cover.

'lI

the faucet is old,

ro

s25

1.

2.
3.

0Ld-style cam and seaI

Combination cam and seal
StainLess steel

') &d @b

bal.L

::iiiffi!:"'

33

S,,A

Figure A

DLE

",7/

.".P"_

HANDLE

ry"64:

CAPWITH
ADJUSTING
RING

DECORATIVE
SCREW COVER

COMBINATION

Unr.r.* the cap under the handle

and lift out the cam seal. Make sure
to line up the tab on the cam seal with
the slot on the faucet body when
reassembling.

]
G

CAM AND SEAL

rit out the batt. When you put the

Q faucet
r/
back together, line up the
long slot on the side of the ball with the
pin inside the faucet body.

c'rfiilTib
sEArs

sPRrNGs

C g
r:

l:

v\.,.

-c#
/.
rt

R.rou" both sets of seats

and

springs. When you reassemble the

faucet using newer-style springs, guide
the seats and springs into the hole with
the narrow end of the spring facing up
(see Figure A).
SPRAYER
DIVERTER

f Wlggte the spout free and remove

J it, and then slip out the O-rings.
Pick matching sized O-rings from the kit,
coat them with faucet grease and slide
them on. Reassemble the faucet by fotlowing the disassembly steps in reverse.

FIX A DRIPPY BALL-TYPE

FAUCET

35

Makeold

wlndows
like new
you're thinking about replacing your
casement windows because they're
drafty, fogged up or just hard to open,

consider this: You can fix most of the

problems yourself for a fraction of the cost of
new windows-and it won't take you more

than an hour or two per window.

The following pages walk you through the
fixes for the most common casement window
problems. (Casement windows are the tlpe that

.J:.:-

swing like doors.)You won't need any specialty

tools, and the materials are available from most

window manufacturers or online window supply companies (see the Buyer's Guide, p. 37).
Unless you need to replace the sash, the fixes
cost less than $25.

Although your windows may look different

from the ones shown here, the techniques for
removing the

sash and

fixing problems are similar.

If you turn your window handle and nothing

happens, the gears on your handle, crank operator
shaft or both are probably stripped. Take off the handle and

look for signs ofwear. Ifthe teeth are worn, replace the handle (prices start at $5; see the Buyer's Guide, p. 37). If the
shaft is worn, you can replace the whole operator (see the
next fix). But here's a home remedy to try first.
Start by backing out the setscrew to remove the handle
(some newer handles don't have setscrews and simply pull

off-and this fix won't work). If you

have a

fold-

ing handle, mark where the setscrew is on the

operator shaft when the window is closed
and the handie is folded up. Remove the
handle and file the shaft so the setscrew

;,
SETSCREW

36

PRoJECTS $10 To $25

can lock onto the shaft (photo above

right). The metal is tough; it'll

take about 15 minutes to get

Fite a flat spot on the operator shaft, then insert a longer

setscrew into the handle. The flat side lets the setscrew
lock onto the shaft.

flat side. Or use a rotary tool with a grinder bit to speed up

the job. Vacuum the shavings out of the operator so they
won't harm the moving parts.
Reattach the handle with a longer setscrew (354 at hardware stores). Ifyou open and close the window a lot, this fix
may not hold up in the long run.

Figure A
Replace a stubborn crank operator

. ri .l :::,i':.:.- l rlrl:;;1,:'.'i

If the

splines on the crank operator shaft are worn or

broken off, the gears don't turn easily or at all, then it's

.ri-,:rla:-r,i':.,i....,i

When you

turn the handle, the operator moves the crank

arm and the split arm operator. The split arm operator
then opens the window sash, Casement window operators
come in several styles. They may look complex, but
they're easy to disconnect, remove and replace.

time to replace the crank operator (prices start at $20).

You don't need the make, model or serial number of
the crank operator. You just need a picture. Snap a digital photo,
email it to a hardware suppiy company (see the Buyer's Guide)
will sell you a new one. Or mail the company a
print photo. You can also look at online catalogs on the Web sites
and the company

listed in the Buyer's Guide to find an operator that matches yours.

To replace the operator, first take the crank arm off the sash.
Most crank arms slip out of

a notch on the guide track on the sash

(Photo 1). Others are pried offwith a flathead screwdriver, or a
channel is unscrewed from along the bottom of the sash. If the
operator also contains a split arm operator, unhook that, too
(Photo 2).

Slide or pry off the operator cover. If you have a removable

cover, cut along the casement cover with a utility knife to slice

through any paint or stain that seals it on the window jamb.

Remove the trim screws along the top of the casement cover.
Gently pry the cover loose (Photo 3). Be careful-the cover can
easily break! Unscrew the crank operator. Set the new operator
place, aligning

in
it with the existing screw holes, and screw it to the

jamb. If the cover isn't removable, crank operator screws will be

accessible on the exterior of the window.

{I

Op"n the window until the crank arm bushing is atigned

with the guide track notch. push down on the arm to pop

the bushing out of the track.

)
L

SUa" back the retainer clip on the arm and pry the arm off
the stud on the sash bracket with a screwdriver.

Buyer's Guide
Blaine Window Hardware. Window hardware, inctuding hard to
find and obsotete hardware parts. WiLt f ind your reptacement
parts using your photos. [800) 678-19,19. b[ainewindow.com
Glass Distributors, Window hardware.
[301] 77 I -2L30. g tassdistributo rsi nc.com

Prime-Line Products. Reptacement handLes.

Pri me-[i ne-prod ucts. com

Replacement Hardware Mfg. Window hardware, including

parts WiLl frnd reptacement parts using your photos.

9!_s-qL9te

[800) 780-5051. rep[acementhardware.com

Lift off the casement

Remove

cover to expose the crank operator.

the screws, take out the crank operator and replace it.

Truth Hardware. Window hardware. Refers homeowners to

regionaL distributors, which can find parts using your photos.
[800) 866-7884. truth.com

MAKE OLD WINDOWS LIKE

NEW

37

SLIDE
OFF

Op"n the sash and disconnect the crank arm. Pry the split
arm operator off the top and the bottom of the sash with a
-ffi;|.
(the hinge arms easily pop off).
screwdriver

'lI

Stide the hinge shoes out of the hinge channels at the top
and bottom of the window to remove the sash.

Fix a sticking window

If you have

a window that drags against the frame

when you open it, close the window and examine it
from the outside. The sash should fit squarely and be
centered in the frame. If not, you can adjust the position of the
sash by slightly moving the hinge channel. (lf the window is centered and square but stili drags, see the next fix.)
You can move the channel at the top or the bottom ofthe win-

dow, depending on where the sash is dragging (but don't move

both channels). Start by taking out the sash (Photos I and2).If
the hinge arm is screwed to the sash,

see

ftt

Photo I, p. 39.

Mark the hinge channel location on the frame, then unscrew

the channel. Fill the screw holes with epory (for vinyl windows)
or wood filler (for wood windows). Filling the holes keeps the
screws from realigning with their old locations when you reinstall
the channel. Scrape the filled holes smooth before the epoxy sets.

i/8 in. over from the

mark (move the channel away from the side of the sash that's
dragging), drill 1/8-in. pilot holes and then reinstall it (Photo 3).
Place the channel back on the jamb, about

the hinge channel in place, slightty over from its former

location. Dri[[ new holes, then screw it to the jamb.

Set

Over time, hinge arms that support heary windows can start to sag, causing the sash to

hit

the frame in the lower corner that's opposite

the hinge. First make sure the window sash is
square and centered in the window opening. If it's
not, see the previous fix. To eliminate drag in a window that fits squarely, replace the hinge arms at the

top and the bottom ofthe window. You can buy the
hinges at window hardware supply stores (see the
Buyer's Guide, p. 37). Prices start at $16.
Remove the sash from the window. The hinge

'4
Align the new hinge arm with the screw holes and fasten it into place.
If the screw holes are stripped out, filt them with toothpicks dipped
in wood glue, let the glue dry, then cut the toothpicks ftush.

38

PROJECTS $10 TO $25

arms are located near a corner or in the middle

of

the window frame. Unscrew the hinge arms from

the window, then install the new ones in the same
locations (photo left).

{
I

fate off the

sash by removing the screws in the

channel and the hinge arms. Then slide the sash
the hinge arms.

)
h

off

in

Ifyou have broken giass or fogging (condensation between

the glass panes), you'll have to replace the glass or the entire
sash (but it'll cost you more than $251). If the sash is in good
shape (not warped or cracked), you can sometimes replace
just the glass. Call your window manufacturer to see whether
glass replacement is an option and if a fogged window is covered under your warranty. You'll need the

information that's

etched into the corner ofthe glass and the sash dimensions.
Contact a glass repair specialist to have only the glass

replaced (look under "Glass Repair" in the yellow pages).

nign the sash lip with the hinge arms, then stide the
sash onto the hinges. Insert screws to fasten the sash
ptace.

Prices start at

$i60 for a 17 x 36-in. window. Or you can

replace the sash yourself. Order

it through the manufacturer

(prices start at $l 10).

To replace the sash, first remove the old one. you take off
the sash shown here by removing the hinge screws (photo 1
).
For sashes that slide out, see Photos and 2,p.38. Remove

any hardware from the damaged sash and install

new sash (this sash doesn't require any hardware).

it

on the

Instali the new sash by sliding it onto the hinge arms,

then screw it to the hinges (Photo 2).

Seal a drafty window

Weather stripping often becomes loose, worn or
distorted when the sash drags or when the strip gets
sticky and attaches itself to the frame, then pulls loose when
the sash is opened. Windows have weather strip on the sash,

frame or both. Regardless of its location, the steps for

removing and replacing it are the same. Weather stripping
is available from your window manufacturer (prices start at
$15). The window brand and glass manufacturer date are
etched in the corner of the glass or in the aluminum spacer
between the glass panes. You'll also need the height and
width of your sash (take these measurements yourself).

If the weather strip is in good shape and loose in only a

few places, like the corners, apply a dab of polyurethane
sealant ($5 at hardware stores) to the groove and press the

weather strip into place. Otherwise, replace the entire

weather strip. First remove the sash and set it on a work
surface so you can access all four sides. Ifthe weather strip
is one continuous piece, cut

it apart at the corners with

sash (photo

ls the windsw

to avoid tearing

it

"glued" shut?

utility knife.
Starting at

Work the otd weather strip out of the groove gently

and leaving the spline stuck in the groove.

corner, pull the weather strip loose from the

right). Ifthe spline tears offand remains stuck

a hook from stiff wire to dig it out.

in the groove, make

Work the new weather strip into the groove, starting at a

as the strip slides into the groove.

lf the window is stuck shut, it's Likel.y that the weather

strip is sticking. After you muscte it open, spray siLicone
Lubricant on a rag and wipe it on the weather stripping.
Silicone [ubricants, such as DuPont TefLon, start at $4.
Don't use oiLy Iubricants; they attract dust.

corner. You'll hear it click

MAKE oLD wtNDows LtKE

Ail
-:,.:

NEW

39

Renew tiredlooking windows

ood windows with a natural finish on the
inside look great when they're new, but
moisture, temperature swings and harsh
sunlight eventually make the varnish fade and flake
away, especially along the bottom of the window sash
and on the sill. It looks like an intimidating job, but
usually the only part of the window that needs work is
along the bottom-the rest of the sash and trim can
just be lightly sanded and recoated.

The first step is to match the stain and finish. The

to do this is to take a piece of the trim to a
paint store to have it matched (Photo I ).
Scrape off any worn varnish (Photo 2), then sand
with 120- or 150-grit sandpaper. In partially damaged
easiest way

areas, feather the sanding

into the undamaged

areas,

then lightly sand the rest ofthe piece to prepare it for

new finish (Photo 3). You don't need to sand and

recoat the entire window ifonly a few pieces need itjust stop at an edge or corner.
Stain the wood (Photo 4) and apply two coats of
outdoor-grade finish. If the gloss doesn't match the
older varnish, buff it lightly with extra-fine steel wool
or a pad to dull it.

cl
I

Carefull.y remove the wood cover of the casement operator (or other
piece of trim) and use it to match the stain,

ffr
a
4

ur"

a sharp scraper

to remove old

finish. Putt the scraper smoothly

and carefully to avoid gouging the wood.

Q
J

SanA side pieces heavily

aged wood.

10

PROJECTS

sio ro

$25

in worn-

out areas and liqhtly elsewhere.

Stop at edges or corners next to undam-

L
I*

nua stain into the sanded sections

of the window. Wipe off quickly,

then appty more as needed to darken

the color.

Closet nook
shelves
Salvage the hidden space at
the recessed ends of your closets
by adding a set of shelves. Wire shelves are
available in a variety of widths. Measure
the width and depth of the space. Then

choose the correct shelving and ask the

salesperson to cut the shelves to length

for

you, or cut them yourself with a hacksaw.

Subtract 3/8 in. from the actual width to
determine the shelf length. Buy a pair of

end mounting brackets and a pair of

plastic clips for each shelf.

Double the shelf space in your closet by adding a second shelf

above the existing one.

Two-story closet shelve3

There's

a lot of space above the shelf in most closets. Even though it's a rittle hard to
reach, it's a great place to store seldom-used items. Make use of this wasted space by

adding a second shelfabove the existing one. Buy enough closet shelving material to
match the length of the existing shelf plus enough for two end supports and middle

supports over each bracket. Twelve-inch-wide shelving (about $10 for an g-ft.
length) is available in various lengths and finishes at home centers and lumberyards.
These supports are cut 16 in. long, but you can place the second shelf at whatever
height you like. screw the end supports to the walls at each end. Use drywall anchors
if you can't hit a stud. Then mark the position of the middle supports onto the top

and bottom shelves with a square and drill 5132-In. clearance holes through the
l-5/8-in. screws through the shelfinto the supporrs.

shelves. Drive

Make the most of the recesses at the

ends of your closet with wire shetving.

RENEW TIRED.LOOKING WINDOWS

ila-

TWO-STORY CTOSET SHELVESi CLOSET NOOK SHELVE5

11

How to stop a
o

runnlnq'

tollet

oilets haven't changed much in the last 80 years. After a flush,

water still fills a tank, lifting a float that shuts off the water
when it reaches a certain level. A lever still opens a
flapper to cause the flush, falling back into place when
the water level drops. So it's no surprise (nor any
consolation) that you face the same flush problems today that your grandparents did. Sometimes

the flush is too wimpy, sometimes the water keeps

running, and sometimes the bowl doesn't refill.
On the following pages you'llfind a simple
four-step strategy to solve 95 percent of these
problems. You can complete the first three
steps in five minutes. That'll solve most

prob-

lems. The fourth step is usually easy too, but

not always. More on this later. These steps work

for most toilets but not for pressure-assist models.

*r{
12

PRoJEcrs

$1 o

ro

$25

AE

-r6-r

Check the

fiil

Remove the tank lid and

tube rt,s a smari nexibre
from the filI valve to the overflow tube. While
the tank refilis, this tube squirts enough water

J-i-C

FILLTUBE

OVERFLOW

TUBE

\,

down the overflow tube to refill the bowl after

the completed flush. If this tube falls off or the
water stream misses the overflow tube, the bowl
won't fill and your next flush will be wimpy
(that is, won't develop a strong siphon). Reattach the

I in.

fill tube and make sure it runs about

rim of the overflow tube. Flush

above the

the toilet and watch the water stream to make

it goes down the overflow tube.

sure

Push the fitt tube firmly onto the fitl valve.

Make sure the fill tube sends water into the

overflow tube.

Adjust the

fill heiqht

The water level in the tank is controlled by an adjustable float.

A float that's set too low produces a weak flush; if it,s set too
high, water spills into the overflow tube and the fill valve won't
shut off. The water will keep running. Look for the fill level
mark on the inside back of the tank and mark it on the overflow tube so you can see it more easily. If you can,t find it,

I in. on the overflow tube and make a

mark. Then flush the toilet and see if the water reaches and
stops at that mark. If not, adjust the float up or down. If you
have an old toilet, you'll have to bend the brass rod that conmeasure down about

nects to the float ball to make adjustments. But with newer toilets you usually turn a screw or slide a clip along a rod. Flush
the toilet after each adjustment.

Also make sure that the water level is at least an inch below
the C-L (critical level) marked on the fiIl valve. you can adjust
the height of many valves to raise or lower the C-L.

Occasionally the

fill

means that it's defective.

valve simply won't shut

If

ofi

which

turn the water supply off at the

shutoffunder the tank. Buy a replacement valve ($6 to $10 at
hardware stores and home centers). You don't have to match
the old one; many, like the one shown here, fit most toilets. It,s
so,

a 1 5-minute change-out.

Adjust the float to set the water levet. pinch the clip and stide the
float up or down on the rod. Keep adjusting the float until the
water shuts off at the proper [eve[.
How

ro srop

A RUNNTNG

TotLET

A3

Adjust the flush

handlefilapper chain
A chain that's too short or tangled won't allow the flapper to
close and water will continue to leak into the bowl. This
causes the fill valve to cycle on and off to refill the tank. A
chain that's too long, or a flush rod that hits the tank lid, won't
open the flapper wide enough to stay open for the full flush. You'll find
yourselfhaving to hold the lever to complete a good flush.
To avoid these problems, adjust the linkage in the chain to leave only
a slight bit of slack when closed. Cut the chain at the rod to leave oniy
about an inch extra to reduce the potential for tangles. Then put the
tank lid back on and make sure the flush rod doesn't strike the lid when

you press the lever.

If it

does, bend

it

down slightly and readjust

the chain.

Adjust the chain to leave a littte slack with the flapper

closed. Then cut off the excess, leaving about an inch.

Replace

the flapper
you've completed the first three steps and your toilet still runs,
worn-out flapper. Turn offthe water, remove the
old flapper and take it to the store to find an exact replacement. (Hard-

If

chances are you have a

ware stores often carry a wide variety.) Most flappers snap over ears on
a ring that slips over the tube.
Now here's the catch. You may not find an exact match. The range of
flapper styles has expanded over the last I 5 years, and you may find I 5 to
20 flapper options on the store shelf. Some packages include specific
brand and model information (so note yours before you leave home).
Others have a "universal" label. If

the overflow tube. Others have

tip

w".,- pLrrti.
gtoves when
you remove the
flapper. A fine
btack fi[m often
buitds up on
rubber surfaces
and is hard
to scrub off your

you can't find an exact replacement, try the closest one and pick
up

universal type

as

well. They're

cheap ($2 to $3), and the extra one

just might save you a second trip

to the store! (Avoid the
"adjustable" types unless you're
replacing an adjustable one.)

Install the new flapper and

make sure it opens and closes
freely. Then test it. If the water
continues to run or runs intermittently, you're not getting a good seal.
ha nds.

Try

it with you to the

store to
find an exact replacement. In addition to the closest
replacement, pick up a "universal" type.
Unsnap the otd flapper and take

different flapper.

Ifyou just can't find a flapper that seals, consider replacing the entire
overflow tube/flapper (about $10). On most toilets (two-piece), this
means removing the tank. It's not difficult and you don't need special
tools. It'll take you about an hour, and you'll avoid that $100 plumber
service call.

11

PRoJEcrs g1o

ro

g2s

Easy-to-bui ld

shoe storage ($

Ct.rp the 1x3 support to a piece of scrap

wood as you dri[[ the hotes to prevent the
wood from splintering.

{I

ithout constant vigilance, shoes

tend to pile up into a mess next
to entry doors. Untangle the
mess

with a simple, attractive shoe ladder

that keeps everything from boots to slippers organized and offthe floor.
Cut and drill the dowei supports (Photo
1), then screw them to 1x4s (Photo 2). Cut
the lx4s to fit your shoes and the available
space-an average pair of adult shoes needs
l0 in. of space. Nail or glue the dowels into

the dowel supports, leaving2 in. (or more)

extending beyond the supports at the end

to hang sandals or slippers.

Apply a finish before you mount the

shoe ladder to the wall. Screw the shoe lad-

der to studs or use heary-duty toggle-bolt

style anchors to hold it in place.

)*x

eredrill through the back of the 1x4 into the 1x3 supports, then glue and screw the

pieces together.

H0w

r0 sT0p

A RUNNTNG T0tLET; EASy_T0_BUtLD sHoE

sTORAGE 15

L
,'U

Laundry room

*mropr*w&
his project will save you hours of ironing and organizing.
Now you can hang up your shirts and jackets as soon as

they're out of the dryer-no more wrinkled shirts at the

bottom of the basket. You'll also gain an out-of-the-way upper
shelf to store all sorts of odds and ends.

.,#

i.,

WALL STUD

Just go to your home center and get standard closet rod

a closet rod and a precut 12-in.-deep Melamine shelf (all
for about $25). Also pick up some drywall anchors, or if you have
concrete, some plastic anchors and a corresponding masonry bit.

brackets,

Follow the instructions in Photos

I and2.

t ip *,

can get these great-tooking Lido RaiL chrome

brackets and rod at home centers or buy them
on-Line. 0ne source is aubuchonhaTdware.com.

CLOSET ROD
BRACKET

t'
,]

LOCATION

ti'rir--;l-

f,$
t
)

tfi oraw a [eve[ line about 78 in.

t above the floor and locate the

studs behind the drywall. Fasten

at least two of your ctoset rod
brackets into wall studs (4 ft.
apart) and then center the middle
bracket with two 2-in.-[ong screws
into wa[[ anchors (inset).

15

PRoJEcrs $10

ro

s2b

i!'r:r

$
&

Fasten your 12-in.-deep Metamine shetf onto the tops of

tne brackets with 1/2-in. screws. Next, insert your closet

rod, drill 1/8-in. holes into the rod, and secure it to the
brackets with No. 6 x 7/2-in. sheet meta[ screws.

iltiltfl:l@

won't catch

hen a door latch won't catch, it's

because the latch doesn't align with
the hole in the strike plate. Sometimes

you can clearly see the misalignment. If not, do

the "lipstick test" (Photo l ).
Tighten the hinges first. If you find that the
latch contacts the strike plate too high or too low,
make sure all the door's hinge screws are tight. If
that doesn't solve the problem, remove one of the
screws on the jamb side of the hinge and drive in a

{ Sr"rt tipstick on the latch and stick masking

* tape to the strike ptate. Ctose the door to determine where the latch contacts the plate.

$
#*

Remove the

strike plate,

place it in a vise
and enlarge the
hole with a file.
You may also have
to enlarge the hole
in the doorjamb,

3-in. screw. The long screw will grab the wall

framing and draw in the whole doorjamb slightly.
To raise the latch, do this at the top hinge. To lower
the latch, do it at the bottom hinge.

Enlarge the strike plate hole.

If long

screws

don't solve the too-high or too-low problem,

measure the misalignment of the lipstick marks
on the strike plate. If the latch misses the strike
plate hole by l/8 in. or less, remove the
strike plate and enlarge its hole with a file (Photo
2). A half-round file ($6 at home centers and
hardware stores) matches the curve of the latch
hole.

ft

ruarr the new

Move the strike plate. If the latch contacts the

position
of the strike ptate
and enlarge the
mortise with a

strike plate at the correct level but doesn't

chisel. You may

also have to entarge
the latch hole in
the jamb.

tion the strike plate. You can move it up or down

and in or out. Use a sharp chisel to enlarge the
strike plate mortise (Photo 3). Then hold the
strike plate in place and drill new 1/16-in. holes
for the screws. Install the strike plate and fill the
gap in the mortise with wood filler. Remove the

*s

go

in far enough, or if the latch strikes more than

1/8 in. too high or too low, you'll have to reposi-

strike plate to paint or finish the patch.

t----lF

50

SPECIAL SECTI0N: FREE PR0JECTS

Prevent bathroom motd

Eliminating dampness is the key to keeping mold from growing. To do that, follow
these steps:

First, after a bath or a shower, squeegee water off the shower wails. That eliminates at least three-fourths of the moisture that supports mold and mildew growth.
second, run your bath fans during your bath or shower and for a halfhour after
to flush out moisture. Or add a timer switch to make this step automatic.

Third, ifyou have tile, seal the grout lines annually with a standard grout sealer
to watelproof them.
To get rid of existing mold, scrub it with detergent and water, then let the surface
dry completely. Or use a solution of l0 percent bleach and
90 percent water (a stronger bleach solution will not
give better results). Spray or brush on the solution, let

it sit 10 minutes, then rinse it offand let dry.

If the fans aren't clearing out most of the moisture
in your bathrooms after five to 10 minutes, your fans
may not be moving enough air. Fans are certified by the
volume (cfm, or cubic feet per minute) of air "exhausted,,

FAN

VOLUME

(CUBIC FEET

out of the room. To find the recommended fan capacity PER MINUTE)
for your bathroom, simply multiply the bathroom square footage by
(assuming an 8-ft. ceiling; for a 9-ft. ceiling, multiply by t.S).

FAN LABEL

Stripped
hinge screw fix

STRIPPED-OUT
SCFEW HOLE

One day the door closes smoothly; the next day it,s sticking.
And the sticking grows worse as the weeks pass. It's a common
old-house problem, but it can happen anywhere kids hang
from doorknobs.

f:
-'1
of

The screws holding the top hinges carry most of the weight
the door and are almost always the first to pull out, especial ly after
they've been repeatedly tightened over the years (inset photo). The best way to
beefthem up is to replace the standard 3/4-in. hinge screws with at least two 3-in.

\\__

1/2"

DRYWALL

screws that go through the jambs and solidly anchor

into the framing. If the door

with four screwholes, just drive 3-in. screws straight through the
two holes toward the center of the door. However, if the hinge has only three
has a large hinge

holes, add a 3-in. screw through the middle hole and redrill the top screw hole at a
slight angle so the screw hits solid wood (photo right).

start the drill bit at a sharp angle so the bit doesn't follow the ord screw hoie.
As soon as you feel a fresh hole starting, tip the drill bit back to an angle that will

hit the stud-the

angle shown here should work

screw feels like it's sliding

offto

the side between the

for most doors. If the bit or

drlwali and wood, redrili at

sharper angle.

screw the hinge back in with yellow dichromate (zinc-plated) screws-the

color and head size of these rust-resistant drywall screws are a good match for
standard brass hinge screws.

If the door doesn't shut properly after all the

screws

are driven in, they may have been driven in too far, pulling the door frame out of
plumb. Just back the screws out a few turns.

Replace short hinge screws with long

screws when the screw holes no longer

hold. Angle the long screws toward the

studs to make sure they catch.

SPECIAL SECTI0N: FREE PR0JECTS

51

Stop washing machine walk

If your washing machine has been making loud thumping noises
and moving across the floor when it's in spin cycle, it probably
needs to be leveled. Fortunately, it's an easy fix, though you may
need a helper to

tilt up the machine.

the threads is turned down, but if the threads are rusted, use
a wrench.
After leveling, lock the leg into place with the locking nut
(Photo 2).

if it has moved across the

Most washing machines have self-adjusting rear legs that level

floor. Adjust the front legs

from side to side, but dirt, lint and rust may keep them from
working properly. If the back isn't level, tip the washing machine

Push the machine back into position

to make the machine level

across the front and from

up a few inches and then set it back down so the weight of the

If

front to back (Photo 1).

machine loosens the legs.

The legs can usually be

turned by hand after the
locking nut at the top of

the self-leveling support may be rusted against the washing

machine frame. Tip the machine off the ground, then break the

e! litt ttre machine slightty with

I . pry bar to take the weight
off the front [egs, then turn the
legs until the side of the washer
is ptumb.

{l
6

self-leveling support loose by tapping the legs (Photo 3).

fignten the tocking nut up against the

frare of the

the machine still doesn't level out,

washing machine

to

keep

the leg from turning.

p
-l

tt ttr"

rear leveling mechanism is

froten with rust, tap the tegs a few

times with ptiers or a hammer to break
the mechanism free.

#nrxhle the Lff*

nf ynur patnthrushfrs
To get a lifetime of use out of your paintbrushes, clean
each one immediately after using it, before the latex paint
has a chance to dry. Start by wiping the brush on newspaper to remove excess paint. Then stick the brush into a
bucket of warm water (Photo 1). Move the brush around
to remove as much paint as possible. Next, hold the brush

under running water. Run a wire brush (or a kitchen

fork) down the bristles to remove dried paint, especially
near the handle (Photo 2). When the water running off
the bristles turns clear, the brush is clean.

Let each paintbrush air dry, then wrap it with the

'$
*

Nove the paint-

brush around in a
bucket of water to wash
out the paint, then run
it under water.

cardboard cover it came in or heavy paper (like grocery

bag paper). To keep the bristles straight, hang the brushes

from

52

nail or hook, or store them flat.

SPECIAL SECTl0N: FREE PR0JECTS

'$
&'

Use a wire brush to remove

the paint from the bristles.

54

Venetjan plaster watls

58

Space-saving wa[[ niche

67

Mud-busting boot scraper

62

Regrout a shower

66

Get a weed-free yard

77

Quick fix for dirty dryer vents

72

Repair a drippy shower

73

Quiet a noisy fan

74

Garage ceiling storage

SPECIAL SECTION:

Must-have tools under 950

76

77

Pocket hoLe jig

Versatite vise
Patm-sized screwdriver
packs a punch
Back pocket square
Muttiuse tooI that reatly works
Three toots in one
Duat-use wire stripper

Singte-squeeze cautk gun

78

Best ro[Ler cteaner ever

Stripped screw remover

10-use paint tool

Big-grip spring clamps

53

\-..-..;-

\bnetlan e
plaster waus
aybe you've decided that red bedroom walls just aren't

you. Maybe you think your 2-year-old could have

sponge-painted better than the previous owners of
your home. Whatever the case, if you're ready for a new look in
your bedroom, bath, dining room-or just about any other room
in the house-Venetian plaster could be for you.
A decorative wall technique once considered a difficult project
tackled only by pros, Venetian plaster is now easy to apply in a
simple multistep process. With this solid-color product in a can,

from going as far as halfi,vay up. This will divide the room inro a
distinct top and bottom and look odd.
With the room prepped, mask off the wall just above where
you'll be plastering. Measure up from the floor in several locations
and mark a level line with a straightedge. Use a 2- to 3-in.-wide
strip of tape so you can stroke freely and not be tempted to make
smaller strokes at the top. Also, open a window in the room.

Although this product has very low odor, adequate ventilation is

necessary until it dries.

you can add a rich visual texture with highlights and shadows. It's
as simple as patching and painting walls, and inexpensive, too. For

Trowelit on

project like this in an average-size bedroom, you'Il spend $33 for

the plaster and $12 for the top coat (ifyou want one).

When you're buying your materials, pick up a drywall mud pan like
the one shown in Photo 2 to hold the colored plaster while you,re

Getting started
Your home center or paint store will mix and blend the colored
plaster just like ordinary paint so itt ready to use right out of the
can. Don't be fooled when you open the can and see just a solid
color. The subtle color differences you see in the final job are part

ofthe process ofapplying, sanding and tooling the plaster.

Prep the room just as you would for any paint job by cleaning
walls and filling holes. Mask the areas you don't want painted
such as around windows, doors and baseboards. You can plaster
over any paint that's sound, but if the paint
is glossy or semigloss, wipe

it down with a
deglosser (available at paint stores and
home centers for $6.50).

spreading it on the wall. The long top edges have a sharp rim to
wipe your drywall knife clean. Also buy a 5-in. flexible drywall
knife to spread the product on the walls. You could use a 4-ll2-in.
or a 6-in. knife instead, with slightly different effects. practice on a
scrap of painted drywall to get the hang of it. Your home center

paint
department may also have small boards available to practice on.
Before you start, sand the corners of the drywall knife to

round them slightly to keep the tool from leaving sharp ridges
and digging into the wall. Start applying the plaster to the wall in
a

corner and work your way along the wall as shown in photo 3.
Don't try to do the whole wall in one coat.
You'll find it easiest to trowel an even coat

on a 3- to 4-ft. section with your knife at a

sharp 15- to 2O-degree angle and then go

You can create a two-color wall like this

back and do random strokes with the knife,

one or use the Venetian plaster product

from floor to ceiling with dramatic effects.
If you want two colors, paint the top first
and allow it to dry so you won't drip paint
on the Venetian plaster below. When figuring the proportions for a wainscot, keep in
mind that it'll look best about one-third of

alternating left to right and right to left.

You'll see the original color ofthe wall show
through on the first coat, but this is good. If
you don't see some of the wall beneath,

the way up from the floor to the ceiling. You

can go a bit higher up the wall, but keep

you're putting the plaster on too thick. After

'*g'h*

each 6-ft. section, stop and examine the

wall. Tool any section with heavy ridges and
even

it with

a clean trowel before

it

dries,

then move along.

VENETIAN PLASTER

WALLS

55

WwF'"--

100-GRtT
SANDPAPER

RoL

t:7
I

5" DRYWALL
KNIFE

,l
I

nound the corners of a standard 5-in. drywall knife to

prevent the toot from digging in.

lransfer the Venetian plaster mix to a drywatl pan so it's

easier to scrape the excess off the knife. The plaster is a
bit thinner than joint compound but thicker than paint.

)
Ir

,5'ANGLE
OB LESS

?
rJ

lppfy the colored plaster mix with your drywatl knife in

random strokes back and forth at about 45 degrees to

vertical. Avoid heavy buitdup.

Fillthe voids with the second coat

Wait for the first coat to dry, from two to four hours, then apply
the second. Load your knife and fill in the voids with strokes of
your knife. Repeat the randomness of the first coat and the combination of the two coats will add up to a great-looking, varied
texture later. Hold the drywall knife at a bit steeper angle, at least
45 degrees to the wall. Look for the spots where the first coat didn't
cover and apply plaster in those areas. Again, after each 6-ft.

section, go back and check your work, making sure the wall is adequately covered and the wall color behind doesn't show through.
The plaster should be about 1/8 in. thick in the thicker areas and
thinner elsewhere, so judge your job accordingly. Remember, the
finished job will have more visual texture than actual texture.

You'll find that outside corners can build up quickly, so try to

keep them as even as the rest of the wall. If the plaster is too thin,
you can always go back and dab corners with a small paint brush
later. When you've finished the room, let this coat dry for 24 hours
before moving to the next step. The job

56

PRoJEcrs $25

TO $so

will look a bit sloppy at

L
I

finitn one wall section at a time. Go back after each

section and remove any btotches thicker than 1/8 in.
before they dry.

this stage, so don't be disappointed. The final steps will bring the
walls to life.

Sanding and burnishing

create a visualdepth
Sand the walls with 400-grit sandpaper clamped into a stiff rubber sanding block (Photo 6). Just fold a full sheet into thirds and
then put it into the block. As you sand (wear a dust mask), you'll
see the character in the finish develop as the foreground appears
lighter and the background stays a bit darker. Keep sanding until
you get a uniform appearance. Don't worry about sanding
through the plaster finish, because the paper is very fine. Change
sandpaper as the sheets wear out or clog. You'll need about four

for an entire room. Wipe all the sanded areas with clean,
dry cloths to remove the residue and then vacuum the floor and
sanded areas with the brush attachment.
Now it's time to burnish the surface (Photo 7) with your steel
drywall knife. Start anywhere, holding the knife at about a 30sheets

!iEF*-=r:

frowel on the second coat once the first is thoroughly

dry. Again using random strokes. fitl in the voids where
the undercoat shows, turning the knife from left to right and
then from right to left.

f,
J

J e* the knife briskty over the surface in tong, botd strokes

f to smooth the high spots and create a luster as well as
darken areas

to develop contrast and

character.

f,, SanU the second coat with 400-grit sandpaper once

lJ it has dried (24 hours) to remove heavy ridges. A 3-ft. x
3-ft. section needs about one minute of vigorous sanding.

Rub

down the entire surface with clean, dry cotton cloths.

fuft the painter's masking tape gentl,y from the watl to

avoid lifting the paint beneath. Using your utility knife,
carefu[[y cut the texture atong the joint where the baseboard
meets the wall. This will allow you to easily peel back the tape.

Q
l/

degree angle to the wall. Pull the knife blade along the wa

with long, bold strokes. The direction isn't particularly

tant; just be sure you go over each square foot of wall

Venetian plaster

of
I I
- i li ::.".
get ,. _* *n*+rg{iug
t t
@Hffi
a bjt darker una pot- #Ftrq@{
ished as you move
i l'i'

Behr Venetian Plaster is avai[able in galton containers, which cover approximateLy '1 50 sq. ft. for the
two coats shown. You can choose from more than
20 stock co[ors. ltalian Cypress, cotor No. VP40, was
used for this project. For more information on Behr
Venetian Ptaster, go to behr.com and Look under
"Products," then
"lnte-

times. The high spots

the thin texture

,j

will

T
4#ffi

tinct levels of color

from the background
to the foreground.
Once you've finished
the wall, remove the
masking tape slowly
and step back to admire

ctick on

rior Products." Then go to

"Faux & Decorative Finishes."
An optionaL water-based potyurethane topcoat is avai[ab[e

for added durabiLity.0ther

brands are avaiLable at home
centers and paint stores.

your work.
vENETTAN PLASTER

wALLs

57

The cabinet fits between studs

inside the waLt, so it'IL work in even

fl, *

the tiniest bathroom. UnLike

watL-hung shel.f, the cabinet lets

you gain storage space without

sacrificing etbow room.

w
W

space-saving

Wa I I n iChg

you need to carve out more storage space in your bath-

room, this is the project for you. Bathrooms are notoriously cramped, so this cabinet is designed to fit inside a
wall where it won't take up valuable space. The width is slightly
narrower than the l4-ll2-rn. stud space, so the cabinet will fit
even if the studs are a little off center or bowed.
The following pages show you how to build and install
the cabinet. You can complete the project in just one weekend:
Build and stain (or paint) it on Saturday, then stick it in the wall
on Sunday.

Tools and materials

Everything you need for this project is available at home centers.
It's made out of oak, which kept the cost to about $48. You'd pay
$135 to more than $500 to buy a cabinet like this in a store.
To complete the project, you'll need a miter saw a circular saw
or table saw' and a drl.wall saw. A brad nailer will make nailing fast

58

PRoJEcrs $2b

ro

$bo

and easy, but it's not absoluteiy necessary (you

can hand-nail instead). You'll also need a router
with a 1/4-in. round-over bit and a l/4-in. Roman
ogee bit to rout the shelves and sill nose.

Where to put the cabinet

This cabinet is installed next to the shower, but it'Il also fit nicely
behind the bathroom door if there's no other available space.
In most cases, it won't work over the toilet because there's a vent
pipe in the wall. Also avoid exterior walls because they're filled
with insulation.
When choosing a location, check both sides of the wall for
obstructions. A light switch or showerhead on the other side ofthe
wall means the wall contains electrical cable or plumbing pipes.
You could also choose a different room. The cabinet can
store-or display-anything you like in the hallway, bedrooms or
family room.

Figure A
wall niche f&?Y[yP'-o''n

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:21" x 3b"

,trrr"rif3

L
Cut, rout and

drillthe pieces
Get started by cutting all the pieces to size
(refer to Figure A). Then run a router with a
Roman ogee bit along the bottom front and
both bottom sides of the sill nose. Use a

round-over bit to rout the top and bottom

front ofthe shelves.
Apply wood glue along the front edge of

CASING
2" x 30-9/1 6"
(3/16" MULLTON)

the sill, center the sill nose over it, then clamp
the pieces together until the glue dries. Use a
damp cloth to wipe away any glue that oozes
out. Ifthe sill and sill nose surfaces aren't flush,
sand the pieces flat with 80-grit sandpaper.

Lay out the

sides

for

the

shelf bracket
holes,

following

Drill

Figure A.

the holes 3/4 in.

from the

edges

and spaced

I in.

apart. Use

l/4-in. drill bit

(or whatever

bit

Materials list
IA 1x4x 96" oak
I1l 1x2 x21+" oak
11) 1/4" x24" x 48" oak pl.ywood

I1l3/16" x2" x72" muttion

11)

11/16" x3-114"

BACK
14-114"

x32"

(1/4" PLYWOOD)

SHELVES
314" x3-112" x12-1t2"

36" crown motding

[11314" x314" x36" cove molding

[1

2l she[f brackets
314"x3-112"x12-314"

size is required

for your brackets). You oniy need to drill the

holes 3/8 in. deep (wrap tape 3/8 in. from the

end of the drill bit to mark the depth),

although it's OK to drill all the way through
the sides since the other side will be hidden

SILL NOSE
314" x 1-1 /2" x 19-1/2"

314" x 3/4" COVE MOLDTNG

(cuT To

FtT)

inside the wall.

After drilling the holes, sand offthe pencil

lines remaining on the sides with 120-grit
sandpaper.

{
I

Tack the

cabinet box
together quickly

with a brad

Assemblethe cabinet
Use wood glue

and |-ll4-in. brad nails to

l), follow-

assemble the cabinet frame (Photo

ing Figure A. Then drill two t/8-in. pilot

holes in each corner and drive l-ll2-rn.
screws to hold the corners together.

nailer. Then add

screws for rocksolid corners.
Glue the si[[ nose

to the sill before

assembling the
cabinet.

Run a thin bead of glue along the back of

the entire frame, then set the back panel over

it. Use the back panel to square the frame,

then tack the panel into place with 5/8-in.
brad nails.
sPAcE-sAVtNG wALL

NIcHE

59

Lay the cabinet on its back and fasten the

casing (Photo 2). Three 5/8-in. nails will hold
the casing until the glue dries.
Precision cuts are required for the molding
corners to fit tightly. Measure along the bottom
edge

of the molding when you make the cuts

will vary depending on

(the top measurements

the type of molding).

tl

To get accurate cuts, build a simple jig to

hold the molding in place during cuts. Screw or
nail wood scraps together at a 90-degree angle.
Set the crown molding upside down in the jig so

the flat part on the back (the part that sits

against the cabinet after installation) is flush

naa casino to

tn" bo, uJing

as few nails as
possible. Three

against the vertical part of the jig. Fasten a stop

block to the horizontal part of the jig aiong the

top of the molding. Screw or hot-glue the jig to
the fence on your miter saw so it won't move.
Set the crown molding upside down in the
jig and cut it (Photo 3).If the molding moves in

naits wi[1 hotd the

casing tight while
the glue dries.

the

jig even a tiny bit during the cut, recut the

molding or the corners won't

fit tightly

together. To cut the molding returns (sides),

use the jig to make the angle cuts, then cut the
90-degree angles.

Nailing the mitered corners together won't

work-the molding will crack or move as you

nail it. Instead, simply glue the corners (Photo
4). Cut the cove molding for the bottom of the
cabinet in the miter saw (without using the jig).
Glue the cove molding pieces together.

Glue and tack the assembled crown and

cove moldings to the cabinet with 5/8-in.

J
J

cut the crown

molding using
a simple homemade

jig.

make

the cuts.

brad nails.

The jig
holds the crown
upside down as you

Applya finish and

stick the cabinet in the wall
Sand the entire cabinet

with I 20-grit sandpaper

and wipe away the dust with

a clean

cloth. Then

brush on a finish. This cabinet has Minwax

Golden Oak stain followed by two coats of
Minwax Fast-Drying Pol1'urethane.
Then get the wall ready. Using a drywall
saw, cut a small inspection hole in the wall
where the cabinet will go. Shine a light in the

opening and use a small mirror to look for

obstructions in the wall. If you find electrical
cable or plumbing pipe, patch the hole and

4:,';;"'::,"",,

move over a stud space.

together without
nails or clamps.
Just hold each
return tightly in
place for about 60
seconds. Set the

Make an outline on the wall (between two

studs) l/4 in. larger than the cabinet back (so
it'll fit easily) and cut out the drywall with a
drywall saw. Be careful not to cut into the drywall on the other side of the wall.
Finally, put the cabinet into the wall, level it,

completed crown
aside for 20 minutes, then attach it
to the cabinet.

60

PRoJEcrs $2s

then nail through the stiles into the studs with

2- I /2-in. finish nails.

ro

$so

rdinary doormats simply

can't handle serious muck,
but you can clean out packed
dirt from even the deepest boot treads
with this boot scraper made from 2x4s.
Screw the base pieces (A and B)

Figure A
Boot scraper

F-T-

together upside down so that the screw

heads are hidden.
Fasten the uprights (C) to the sides

(D), then screw the side brushes on

with 2-in. screws.
Screw the bottom brushes to the
base with 2-in. screws.
Space the side pieces so that the
bristles are roughly

aal2 in. apart.

Add a piece of aluminum angle to

the front edge so you can scrape boots
before brushing them.

Use stiff-bristle
brushes-either "bilevel" brushes or deck
scrub brushes. You may
need

to cut off part of

'-.--_]
=\ =\s

Materials list
Three B-ft. 2x4s
Four stiff-bristte brushes IbiteveI or
reguLar deck scrub brush)

the handle so the brush

2-1/2" deckscrews

will lie flat.

2" deck screws

10" of atuminum angle Iany sizel
TotaI cost: $40 to $50

u
SPACE-SAVING WALL NICHE; l'/UD-BUSTtNG BOOT SCRApER

61

B y l:*'::r'ffi x#T :Ifr tr#'ffi

different story-eventually it's going to break down. Large cracks

and crumbly chunks are alarming, but smaller fractures can be
trouble too. Fractures, and stains that won't wash out, may indicate spots where water is leaking in and working its way behind
the tiles. Sooner or later, that water will weaken the adhesive that's

holding the tile or cause rot in the walls. When that happens, the
only solution is to tear out the tile and start from scratch.
The good news is that if you catch it in time, you can quickly
and easily give tiled surfaces a new lease on life-and a fresh
look-by applying a new layer of grout. The following pages walk
you through the regrouting process from start to finish and offer
tools and tips to prevent mid-job mishaps. You don't need previous tile experience; regrouting is mostly grunt work.

The materials needed for an average-size shower cost about

$50. In some cases, you can finish the job in a few hours, but to be
safe, give yourself a weekend.

you should be able to take

If you start on

Saturday morning,

shower on Monday.

Choosing the right tools and grout

Before you begin digging into that old grout, make sure you have

When the going gets tough

The basic arsenaLof simp[e scratch-out toots works

for most projects, but there are times when

stubborn grout and cautk.

The first is a Grout Grabber {$17; groutgrabber:com).

Attached to your reciprocating saw, this carbidetipped clean-out tooL works Like a steroid-fueted
etectric toothbrush. ControtLing the blade so it
doesn't scratch the tiLe takes some getting used to,
so start with tight pressure. 0nce the btade digs in,
it's not too diff icutt to keep it on the path.
The second weapon is 3M's CauLk Remover
{$7.50 at acehardware.coml. You'l.L find it indispensabLe if the previous instatlers used silicone caulk
to seaL cracks around tubs and showers. Silicone's
stickiness can make removing it a reaL headache.
The chemical requires a
.*.
few hours to soften stubborn cautk, but waiting is

all the tools and materials you'll need to finish the job. Think
of this project in three parts: scraping and cleaning, regrouting
and cleanup.

When you're choosing grout-removal tools, stick with steel to

be safe. Many special grout scrapers equipped with carbide tips
work well and stay sharp for a long time, but if you slip, the carbide
can damage your tile or tub. Steel utility knife blades, on the other

52

PRoJEcrs $25 To

$50

you

might need a Iittle extra hetp. This pair of not-sosecret weapons can make short work of super-

. try
CAULK

better than the tedious

chore of scratching off
the siLicone remnants
with your knife and possibl.v damaqing your tite

REMovER or tub.

'lI

Q
rJ

Sti." along each edge of the caulk/wall joint with

utitity knife. Pull out the old caulk.

Sgrrt.tt out at least 1/8 in. of grout from att the horizontal
and vertical lines with a utility knife or grout saw. Change
blades often,

a sharp

!E

Ct".n out atl of the dust and loose debris from the grout

joints using a stiff brush and vacuum.

hand, maydull quickly, but they're less likelyto scratch the tile. Buy
a knife with easy-to-change blades, and also buy plenty of spare
blades (a 1O0-blade pack only costs about $10). They're ideal for

cleaning out narrow joints. A grout saw ($8; photo 2) with

notched steel blade is also handy for stubborn chunks ofgrout.

As for grout, buy a lO-lb. bag-you may have some left over,

but that's better than running out. Grout comes in two forms:
unsanded and sanded. Your choice depends on the width of the

gaps between the tiles. For joints up to l/8 in., choose the
unsanded variety. For wider joints, choose sanded to avoid cracking. Whatever type you need, look for a "polymer-modified" mix.
The extra ingredients help prevent future cracking and staining.
It's almost impossible to match new grout to old, but don't worry.
By scratching out the topmost layer from all the grout lines and
adding new, you'll get a fresh, consistent color.
To apply the grout, buy a rubber-soled grout float (g9) and a
grout sponge ($3). In case the grout starts hardening too quickly,

you'll also want to buy a plastic scouring pad. Last, buy

Mix the grout with water in a tatl bucket using a paintmixing paddle. Mix stowly until the grout becomes a

thick paste.

tube of

tub-and-tile caulk ($3 to $6) rhat matches the grout color.

Slice out caulk and scratch out grout

Before you begin your attack, take a minute to protect your tub
against scratches and debris that can clog your drain (photo l).

tip

*n".

you're shopping for grout, stick with

brands that offer color-matching cautks.

Factory-matched cautk/grout combinations b[end

aLmost perfectty.

REGROUT A

SHoWER 63

SpreaU grout at an angle to the grout tines with a rubber

float. Press hard on the float to pack the joints futl of grout.

f
J

4
lV

S.r.pe off excess grout by tipping the float on edge and

pushing

it

diagonally across the tile. Work quickly.

ofplastic sheeting to your tub's top edge. Next, lay a

drop cloth on top of the plastic to protect the tub and cushion
your knees. Then remove the faucet hardware or protect it with

t:

masking tape.

*"

Getting rid ofthe old caulk and grout requires plenty ofelbow
grease, but it's not difficult work, especially if you take your time.
Begin by cutting out the old caulk (Photo l) and then move on to
the grout (Photo 2). When you're using a utility knife, switch
blades as soon as the edge stops digging and starts skating on the
grout (Photo 2). At times,you mayhave more success with the grout

"f,x

Thpe a layer

:i

saw Whatever tool you choose, the goal remains the same: to remove

about l/8 in. from the top (or more, if the grout comes out easily).
When you're done, remove dust and debris, which can weaken
the bond between the tile and the new grout (Photo 3).

Mix the grout and pack the joints

Once the grout is mixed, the clock starts ticking toward the
moment when it will harden on the wall...or in the bucket. Pro
tilers can mix and use a l0-lb. bag of grout before it hardens, but
to play it safe, mix up a few cups at a time and work in sections. A
smaller batch will aliow you plenty of time to apply it and clean
the excess from one wall at a time. When you run out, rinse the
container before mixing
Before you make

new batch. '

batch from

bag, shake the bag to redistrib-

ute any pigment and Portland cement that might have settled out

in shipment. Aller it's been dry mixed, scoop out a few cups (one
cup equals about a haifpound) into a bucket. The instructions on
the bag indicate how much water to add per pound of mix. To
ensure a strong mix, start with about three-quarters of the specified
amount of water and gradually pour in just enough to make the

grout spreadable. Aim for a fairly stiff consistency, somewhet'e

between cake icing and peanut butter (Photo 4, inset). Don't worry
if the grout looks a little lumpy. After it's mixed, allow it to sit for
l0 minutes. During this time, the remaining dry specks will absorb
moisture. Give the grout one last stir (restirring also keeps the mix
from hardening in your bucket) and it's ready for application.
Focus on one wall at a time. Scoop out some grout with a
rubber float and press it out across the tiles at a 45-degree
angle (Photo 5). It's OK to be messy. The goal is to pack as much
grout into the joints as you can. Press hard and work the float in
several directions.

61

PRoJEcrs $25

ro

g5o

wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge as soon as

the grout lines are firm, To keep the rinse water clean, dip
the sponge in the "dirty" bucket and wring it out. Then dip it in
the "ctean" bucket and wring it over the dirty bucket.

]
f

immediately after you fill the joints, rake off the excess grout
and put it back in your bucket. Hold the float on edge, and remove

the excess (Photo 6). Move the float across the joints diagonally to
prevent the edge from dipping into the joints and puiling out too

much grout. Work quickly before the grout starts to harden.

The time between scraping and sponging varies from job to
job. Depending on )rour mix, the humidity or the temperature,
the grout may take anl.where from five to 20 minutes to finn up.
Begin sponging as soon as the grout feels firm and no longer
sticks to your finger.

Scrape grout out of the inside corners and

tub/tile joint

so

that you can seat these joints with cautk later on.

sr'
j'-\

Using a well-wrung tile sponge, wipe away the bulk of the

unwanted grout with short, gentle, circular strokes (Photo 7).
Turn the sponge so that you're using a clean edge with each pass.
Rinse and wring

in

it out in the "dirty" bucket, then dip the sponge

finally wring it out again in the "dirty"

a "clean" bucket, and

bucket. This two-bucket technique helps keep your sponge and

rinse water clean so that you can remove grout more effectively.
Wring out as much water as possible. Too much water can pull
cement and pigment from your fresh grout lines.

Q
y'

Auf the haze off the tite after the grout dries (several
hours). Use an old terry cloth towet.

In addition to wiping away the excess, the sponge works for

fine-tuning the shape ofyour grout lines. To shave down any high
spots and make the lines slightly convex, run the sponge across
joint until the grout lines appear uniform. (lf you find

the

low

spot, use your finger to rub in a little extra grout.)

Finally, scrape out any globs ofgrout that may have gotten into
the joints you intend to caulk (Photo 8). I'his includes all corners
and the tub/tile joint. You could do this chore later, but it's a lot
easier now, before the grout is rock hard.

The sponge-wiped walls may look clean at first, but

as the surmoisture evaporates, the remaining grout particles will create

a light haze. Give the grout an hour or two to dry, then buffoff any

face

residual haze with a soft towel (Photo 9).

Finish upwith neat caulkjoints

Let the grout dry overnight before applying the caulk along the
tub/tile joint and inside corners. For clean, precise caulk lines, run
painter's tape along the inside corner and at the tub/tile joint
(Photo 10). Just remember to remove the tape as soon as you finish smoothing. If you wait too long, the caulk will skin over or
control your caulk tines. Appty
{ll/ O OOO,t painte/s tape tojoint
stick to the tape and you'll pull out the caulk when you try to
the caulk. smooth the
with your finger and immeremove the tape. Depending on the caulk, your bath should be
diately remove the tape.
ready in 24 hours.
To reduce mold growth, seal grout lines for
tn. biggest mistake you're tiketyto make iswaiting too Long before
extra stain and water resistance. Give the grout
sponging the excess grout off the tile.
a week or two to cure completely before sealA plastic scrub pad [$3) is a cheap insurance poticy. The
ing. Remember that sealers wear off over
coarse pad quickly and easiLy scours off hardened grout that
time, so you'll need to reapply it every
a sponge won't pick up, but it won't scratch the tiLe.
year or so. If you don't want to apply a
Of course, buying one may guarantee that you won't
sealer, wiping your walls down with a
need it.0n the other hand, should you need one, you
won't be abLe to drive to the hardware store fast enough.
squeegee after each shower works almost

tip

as

well.
REGROUI A SHOWER

Kill broadleaf weeds

A broadleaf weed is any undesirable lawn plant that isn't a grass. The ptants have actual leaves
on stems, and contrary to the name, many have narrow rather than "broad" leaves. Dandelions, -'
plantain, ground ivy (creeping chartie) and ragweed are a few of the most common broadteaf weeds.

Late

Early
Before broadleafweeds start growing in the spring, apply

prod-

uct called Hi-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed & Grass Stopper
Containing Dimension, which is a preemergent herbicide. It kills
weeds before they sprout from seed and even kills some weeds
that have just started to grow Spread the product on the yard
between your first and third mowings in the spring. The company
says a single application will last a full 120-day season. This is
as close to a one-size-fits-all magic bullet as you'll find for
eliminating annual weeds. No other product on the market will
target both broadleaf and annual grassy weeds and stop them
from growing. It's available at lawn and garden centers (call first
to make sure). A 35-lb. bag that treats up to 15,000 sq. ft. costs
about $30.
Park your broadcast spreader over a tarp or on the driveway
(grains may leak out, and a heavy dose of herbicide on the
yard can kill even healthy grass). Fill the spreader (Photo l) and

distribute the herbicide evenly over your lawn.

{
I

Spltts will kitl your grass. Park your spreader on a tarp or

driveway when fitting to avoid herbicide overdoses.

PR0JECTS $2s T0 $50

Ifa

few broadleaves pop up in the yard (you can

always count on a few dandelions), spot-kill them

with

a post-

MAX ($9 for a

32-oz. concentrate that covers I 6,000 sq. ft. ) . Look on the label for
"broadleaf killer" then check to see which weeds it targets. Some
broadleaf herbicides also kill crabgrass. There's no need to treat
the entire lawn, just the weedy areas, Don't let them spread and
emergence herbicide such as Ortho's Weed-B-Gon

create a bigger problem.

Premixed herbicides are OK if you have a small lawn and only

a few weeds. Otherwise, buy concentrates to mix yourselfthey're a better value. Wait until the temperature is between 60
and 85 degrees F. (The herbicide vaporizes too soon in high
temps, and weeds don't grow fast enough in low temps to absorb

the chemicals.) Mix the herbicide with water (follow the directions) and pour it into a handheld pump sprayer ($8). Keep the
nozzle 6 to 12 in. from the weed and spray until the leaves are
slightlywet (Photo 2).

)
E

Spot-kitt broadleaf weeds using a trigger-controtted pump

sprayer until a mist forms on the leaves.

Howto restore bare spots

Kitting Iarge patches of
weedy areas is going to
leave bare spots in your
yard that witl need to be
reptanied with grass. The
best times to reseed are

Too late
If your lawn

has lots

of weeds scattered over large areas, don't

waste time spot-spraying individual weeds.

the spring or faL[ when the

Killing the weeds is as

quick and easy as spraying the weedy area with a hose.
Pour a concentrated postemergence herbicide (the same kind
you used for spot-spraying) into a dial sprayer ($ I 1 ) and set the
dial on the lid to the manufacturer's recommended mixture (such

degrees F. To start, water

the bare spot untiL it's wet
to a depth of at Least 3-112

tablespoons per gallon of water). Attach the sprayer to a garden hose, turn on the water, and apply an even treatment to the

throughout ihe day Ifor

as 2

weedy areas in the yard (Photo 3). Apply the herbicide when the
weeds are activeiy growing in the late spring and early summer.
You don't need to drench the weeds. A

light misting wili kill most

weeds (ifit doesn't, give them a second dose in a week). Spray only
on a calm day. Even a slight breeze can cafiy vapors that can kill
plants (anything that kills broadleaf weeds will also kill flowers or

temperature is 60 to

in. Water at

70

intervats

about 15 minutes every two

to three hours) rather than

continuousty. With constant soaking, the water

just runs off. Check the

depth of the water penetra-

tion by digging into the

decorative plants and could harm trees, so watch for overspray).

ground and Lifting up the

soil {Photo 11. You'Lt be abl.e
to see or feeI how deep the
water has seeped in.
Make a series of 3/B-in.-

tip

deep recesses in the ground,

on,u,o,-.n

1 in. apart, with a squarehead shove[. Spread the

grass seed over the bare

the weedy
areas of the

yard-not the

spot. Then flip over a garden

entire lawn.
You'll introduce Less herbicide into the

rake and use the "knuckLes" to cover the seed with

soit IPhoto 2J. Lightty water
the area in the morning and

environ ment.

evening untiI the grass

starts to grow in.
lf you want the seed to

grow fast, ptant Scotts

PatchMaster [$25 for a 15-

tb. bag), which is grass

-+ '4.

seed with fertiIizer and

mutch to keep the seed
from drying. After making
the recesses in the ground,
spread PatchMaster seed over the bare spot Iphoto
31. Water twice daiLy.

Buyer's Guide
Bayer: The product [ine includes herbicides. bayer.com
Fertilome: lncludes Hi-Yietd Turf & Ornamental Weed &
Grass Stopper Containing Dimension. fertiLome.com
Cou"r large areas fast with a dial sprayer attached to a
garden hose. Avoid spraying on a windy day so the herbicide won't drift onto (and kitl) nearby ptants.

Q
rJ

Scotts: lncludes Ortho and Roundup. The product Iine inctudes

grass seed, fertiLizers and herbicides. (888) 270-37j4.
scotts.com
GET A WEED-FREE

YARD

69

lli ll,P-:iP.: "Ti rJ J. I?,: :,Y H:,: 9:"

the toughest weeds to deal with. Thafs because the herbicides that kitt these weeds wi[[ also ki[[ your
grass. Perennial grassy weeds like Daltis grass and quack grass have deep, expansive root systems that
make it impossible to kill them by pulting them out. Quack grass is easy to identify-three or four days
after you've mowed your yard, quack grass wi[[ be noticeably taller than the surrounding grass.

Early
To spot-kill the weeds, apply a nonselective herbicide, such as
Roundup ($25 for a32-oz. bottle). Nonselective herbicides kill
plants and weeds alike, so it has to be applied to the individual
weeds by hand. Wearing cloth gloves over plastic gloves, wipe the
herbicide directly onto the weed (Photo 1). Don't worry about
covering every single blade. As long as you get most of them, the
herbicide will absorb into the weed. It'll take seven to ten days
before the weed starts to die. If it's not dead after two weeks, wipe

the more work you'll have since these grasses continue to spread
all spring and summer. The herbicide is most effective early in the
season when grasses grow the fastest. As the weeds take root and
become sturdier, they may require more applications to fully kill.

Too late
Once there are too many weeds to spot-treat by hand, it's time for

Late

draconian measures. Kill everlthing and start over. Spray a nonselective herbicide on the weedy area (Photo 2).Wait two weeks.If
they're not dead, spray them again.
Once the weeds are dead, mow them as short as possible. After
spraying the herbicide, wait 14 days to plant new grass so the her-

The solution is the same later in the year. But the longer you wait,

bicide won't kill it.

on a second treatment.

,l
I

nppty herbicide to perennial grasses without kitting the

surroundinq grass. Wear a ctoth gtove over a rubber glove.
Dip your gtoved hand in the herbicide and wipe it on.

70

PROJEcTS $2s

ro

s5o

Spr^y herbicide to kitl patches of perennial grassy weeds.

Mow the weeds after they're dead, then plant grass seed in
the area.

)
E

dirty'tlffilgts
eep

your dryer running efficiently and avoid

possible catastrophic lint fires by doing

these three things. First, clean the lint screen
and filter after each load. Second, periodically clean
the inside of the dryer cabinet. And third, clean the
dryer vent.

The LintEater ($31) from Gardus has a 4-in.diameter auger brush attached to flexible rods
that extend up to 12 ft. to sweep away

lint buildup in the duct.

A vacuum adapter (included)
attaches to the end of the duct
(after it's disconnected from the
dryer). Then you connect it to a
shop vacuum to suck up loose
lint while you feed the brush
through the duct from the out-

If the vent is
too long, take it apart and clean
it in sections.

side vent opening.

Cleaner vents allow the dryer

to operate more efficiently and

prevent a fire hazard. The

LintEater is available at Lowe's,

Ace True Value and manv

online retailers.
Gardus, 18881 985-0208.

linteater.com

TOVACUUM

GET A WEED-FREE YARD; AUICK FIX FOR DIRTY DRYER VENTS

71

euff off the stop tube. Pry up the cartridge retaining clip with
a small screwdriver or awl. Remove the handte washer and
then twist the cartridge stem loose and putl it out with pliers.

Q
J

Install the new, quieter fan and motor assembly inside the
existing fan housing.

Quiet a noisyfan
L
t?

rc;t's stuck, use a special cartridge pulfer. Unscrew the hex

screw and hex nut until threads are visibl.e. Stide the putter

over the cartridge stem, aligning the

notches, and twist

tool ears with the cartridge

to loosen.

A fan kit from Broan and NuTone lets you cut bathrooffi-n
noise almost in half (meaning the fan is barely audible).

Installing the new fan and

motor only takes about 10
minutes, with no rewiring
or duct work required. The
kit works on most Broan,
NuTone and Nautilus

fans-

most bath fans are one of

these brands. The Bath Fan
Upgrade Kit is simply a quieter replacement fan that fits

in the existing housing,

so

there's no need to rip up the

ceiling, and the new grille

gives your fan a new look.

Look at your fan's grille to

determine the fan type. If
it looks like this one, it's
probably a Broan or a
Nautilus.

The more powerful

motor in this quieter fan
means the fan

will do a

better job of ventilating the

room. Buy the kit (No. 690,

$50) on Broan's Web site

(broan.com) or at Lowe's.
Everlthing you need is contained in the kit, including
furn the hex screw by hand until it bottoms out. Snug up
the hex nut by hand and tug on the cartridge putter handle.
If the cartridge won't pu11 out, hold the putter handte steady
and tighten the hex nut two full turns. putl the cartridge out of

f,
r/

the faucet body, Buy an identical replacement cartridge, align

property and reassemble the parts.

the wrench.

If you

If the gritte

other
here, th.

have a grille

one,

looks like this

it's most likely

NuTone.
than the two shown
upgrade kit won't work on your fan.

it
REPAIR A DRIPPY SHOWER; QUIET A NOISY FAN

l-::viil

.ti.,i:::.
,"1

Garage

ceiling storaqe
eady to organize yo:ur garage? You can start by tucking

plastic bins, but ifyou put loose stuffup there, add

medium and lightweight stuff onto shelves suspended

from the ceiling. The shelves are designed to fit into that

lx4

unused space above the garage doors (you need

I6

in. of clearance

sides to keep things

from falling off.

Assemble the 2x4s as shown (Figure A), using 5-in. corner

braces ($2 each) and

l/4-in. x 1-in. hex head lag screws (drill pilot

first).

to fit a shelf and standard l2-l12 in. high plastic bins). However,
you can adjust the shelf height and put them an1'r,vhere. The only
limitation is weight. The 4 x 6-ft. shelf is designed to hold about
160 lbs., a load that typical ceiling framing can safely support. It's
best to save the shelf for "deep storage," using labeled bins with

holes

lids, because you'll need a stepladder to reach them.

First, find which way the joists run in your garage ceiling, then

ceiling is finished) to attach the shelf supports. Tap a small nail

through the drywali until you locate both edges of the joist. Measure to find the center of the adjacent joists, and measure to keep
the three supports in alignment with one another. Finish the shelf
unit by attaching a 3/8-in. x 4-ft. x 6-ft. plywood floor (Photo 3).

plan to hang one shelf support from three adjacent joists (Photo
2). The joists in this garage are24in. apart; ifyours are spaced at
16 in., skip one intermediate joist. This project is built to hold

,1

PROJEcTS $2s

ro

$so

Now attach the corner braces on both ends of a shelf support

to the center of a joist/truss by drilling pilot holes and using

l/4-in. x 2-in. hex head lag screws (Photo 2). The only challenge is

finding the center of joists through a drywall ceiling (if your

Measure from the ceiting to the top of

the raised garage door. Subtract 1 in. to
determine the height of the side 2x4s.

{I

i,Q

Cut 3/8-in. ptywood for the shetf base and attach

supports with 1-in. wood screws.

.u"I'
One shelf
holds allthis!

.tr"'1"

Build three identical shelf supports, atign the side supports, and predrill and
lag-screw each into the center of the ceiling trusses/joists.

it to the 2x4

shelf

Don't overload bins with heavy stuff. Limit the

totat weight to about 160 lbs.

L:','"
{EO

'

Figure A

.'6

\
5"
CORNER
BRACE

'['.]"
.["['
shetf holds eight
containers 16 in. wide x
24 in. long x 72-7/2 in. high.
Each

- ^#=-

114" x 1"
HEX HEAD
LAG SCREW

,l

JN
ili.

l_

+-

GARAGE CEILING STORAGE

75

.r flu

ffi#fi;#,:,fi]W

DRILLING
GUIDE

joints fast with no glue

or mess. Just clamp the jig to the
parts you're joining, drill a couple

ates strong

ofholes, then screw the parts together. You get tight and strong joints every time. It works
great for joining wood of nearly any size, tlpe or dimension. Kreg offers a wide variety of
accessories as well as more expensive rigs, but the Model R3 ($45) is all a home woodworker needs to build professional-grade furniture or cabinets.
Kreg TooI Company, 18001 447-8538. kregtoot.com

Versatile vise
Dremel developed its Multi-Vise
(No. 2500-01) for people who
need a versatile vise that's easy
to set up and take down. This
$30 gem is a must-have for any
hobbyist. it clamps onto any
surface (like a kitchen table) up
to 2-112 in. thick. Because the
jaws are cushioned, you can
tighten delicate items without
marring their surface.

The clamp rotates

360

tilts 50 degrees, so
you're sure to find a comfortdegrees and

$*i

.t

f.,r'E''i

* f: ri,i *f

able working angle. The vise is

available online and at home

ti

centers and hardware stores

(visit the company's Web site for

*!

r.::{ }*{i31lidff gT\f

.l'lr,$ : {

C}

i"
',i iii.;:"T{

locator).
Dremel, (8001 437-3535.
dreme[.com
a store

Don't be fooled by this diminutive screwdriver. It's not a toy. Skil's iXO2 versatile
screwdriver is perfect for around-thehouse projects and quick fixes. It's lightweight (11.2 ozs.) and fits in the palm of

vour hand. The

lithium-ion battery holds a charge for up to l8
months, so it's always ready when you need it.
The iXO2 has a light on top to illuminate
the drilling area, an LED charge indicator so
you know when it's time to recharge, and a
magnetized hex head to hold bits (a22-piece

bit

set is included). The iXO2 is available at

home centers for $49.

Skit, 1877f 754-5999. skittools.com

The Stide Square works like a traditional square

to quickly mark 9O-degree angles. A built-in

scale lets you mark angled cuts.

::: :,',":.::: : : ::::.7

and useful as the square, but C.H. Hanson found a

way. The Slide Square does everything a traditional
square does-lets you draw straight lines quickly and
finds roof cuts, hips and valleys up to 90 degreesand it also has calipers for easy measuring and a
built-in jig for marking anchor bolt holes on sill
plates (for new construction). Even better, it's compact enough to fit in your hip pocket. Buy it on the
company's Web site ($9) or amazon.com ($10).
C.H. Hanson, 18001 827-3398. chhanson.com

SPEcIAL SECTI0N: N4UST-HAVE T00LS UNDE R $50

Ni:Y::T,:: T: :TTT:I:Y;Tff ::,

The Rapid Shark ($25) is an exception. It's a wire cutter, srripper,

crimper (spring loaded for easy one-hand operation) and

utility

["'i:ftHii::ffii:ff1Tff:.HH:::'i,Tillli#i:'

M,

_*fi;:.?

cutting/stripping

when cutting or stripping wire, and the wire

jaws lock closed when you're blade-cutting so they're not in
the way. The handle stores four blades (included) so you

\ )t

always have sharp blades onboard. Changing blades is

easy too-simply press the red button near the biade,
then pull out the old one and slip in a new one-

nothing to unscrew or take apart.

Buy it at Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Sears or amazon.com.
Rapid Tools, [905] 336-0553. rapidtools.net

Three tools in one

The Japanese cat's paw has
three intended uses: It pulls
nails, works as a pry bar (the
thin blade will get under just about
anything) and acts like

small hammer to

whack things.

Dual-use wire stripper

sheathing and a pair

"f

*i* r;;;;#r;t;

insulation off individual wires. Those days

gone. New wire strippers do both tasks

it for prying

Z,i

are

admirably.

J,
-.,:".

rough-and-ready scraper, and for pulling

Wire strippers that strip the sheathing and the 7 ,.

insulation make wiring faster, easier and more . !

small nails that would slide out of the

pleasant.

Use

open cans, as

hammer claw.

These strippers start at

Japanese cat's paws

cat's bars start at

15 at home centers.

and other small

l0 at home centers.

ll1 ?lr;::: : :"n:::::.:.:,.R".

gun hand e r.r

hours. Instead, get a battery-powered caulk gun. Professional ones have been around for
years, but they cost big bucks. Now there's an affordable homeowner version.
with Black & Decker's new Powered caulk Gun, which runs on four "AA'batteries,
all you have to do is squeeze the trigger once for
a smooth, uniform, continuous bead of caulk. No more
gaps or pileups between trigger pulls. Two speeds

let you control the flow rate. Best of all, when you
release the trigger, the plunger backs off slightly so the
caulk doesn't keep squirting out of the tube and make
mess. The barrel unscrews

for loading and changing

caulk cartridges.

It's not worth spending the $32 for the tool if you
only have one or two windows to caulk, but if you're
going to tackle the whole house, the Powered Caulk
Gun will make your job a lot easier. It's available at
Lowe's, amazon.com and on the company's Web site.

Black & Decker, [800] 54/,-6986. blackanddecker.com

SPECIAL SECTl0N: MUST-HAVE T00LS UNDER $50

77

* :..-

Y3

i,:,

e+

Stripped screw remover

Screws

with stripped heads can drive you nuts when you try to get them out. Since

yelling at them won't

solve the problem, reach

for the Grabit screw

extractor. It'll remove

N
Best rotler
cover cleaner
ever
Ifyou do a lot of roll-on painting
and use premium roller covers that

you don't want to throw away, get a

Roller Washer ($25). You'll be glad

everlthing from drywall

screws to deck screws.

Simply drill the bur-

nishing end into the

screw head

to create

an

flip the srnrppei'----BUR$HNG"iAW

bit over and back out
the fastener with the
remover end. With extractor kits starting at only $8, it'll
Find it at Ace, Sears and amazon.com.
even crater, then

save

you

lot ofheadaches.

Atden, 18001 832-5336. atdn.com

you did.

They're easy to use and they do

get the rollers incredibly clean-a
task that takes a long time by hand,
and even then you rarely get a truly
clean nap. fust hook up the hose to a
faucet, slide the roller cover into the

tube, and watch the water flush

out the paint in minutes. Call
(585) 335-91 19 or send an e-mail to

rollerwasher@dishmail.net to find
out where to get one in your area.

PaintMisert 10 uses, like opening the lid and cleaning the

rim, make this $6 tool a real keeper. Find it at Home Depot and paint
and hardware stores (retailers listed on the company's Web site).
Hyde, 18001 87 2-1933. hydetools.com

Big-grip spring clamps

Spring clamps are great for some jobs, but you used to

need AD.,usrABLE
next l,ir,'l* I
'\$il\

several sizes to handle a variety of jobs. No more. The

generation of spring clamps has arrived with B.rr.yt"V;;;;Clippix (the 4-in. is shown here). The adjustable jaws slide open
up to 4 in. wide, and they're strong enough to apply firm pres-

'if '
tt
sure at any width (a smaller size is also available). Pivoting
-a
pads on the jaws grip the work without marring the surface, and the ergonomic handles give you a

firm, comfort-

able grip. The clamps are available for $5 to $7 at

home centers and woodworking stores.
Bessey Toots, 18001 828-1004. besseytoots.com

78

SPECIAL SECTION; N4UsT-HAVE T00LS UNDER $50

80

Make over a room with trim

82

Panel a wa[[

87

Transform a room with

painted rectangtes

90

Super-simple box shetves

93

Steppingstone path

94

Paint your kitchen cabinets

97

Under-bed rott-out

in one weekend

SPECIAL SECT]ON:

Energy-saving projects

98
103

9 ways to save etectricity

Save $150

1O4 Cover

with

CFLs

leaky windows

79

'{f:

s,ii

Make

.,e

' ''"t* :,$

over

.l

"*

hbJ,

r#*

a room with

trlm

his is an easy-to-install urethane

molding that you can cut with a
handsaw and miter box (no power miter

saw necessary) and then glue and nail

to the

walls. The molding is a durable product with

the crisp details and shapes you'd expect from

solid wood, but it's a lot easier to work with.

For an average-size bedroom, figure on spending about $75 for chair railing. Ifyou plan to
trim the windows and doors with moldings
similar to those shown, add $80 per unit.

Urethane moldings are both

lightweight and easy to apply, making them a great alternative to wood
molding. The manufacturer recommends cutting the molding about
1/4 in. overlong for long runs (12 to
16

Joep**':'

ffiil.

ffi

ft.) to help make up for seasonal

wall expansion. This product will

compress slightly and snap into
place. Shorter lengths, up to 8 ft.,

a.'91

two applications. Sand urethane molding as little

should be cut about l/8 in. overlong

and anything less than 4 ft. should

be cut to fit. The company also recommends butting crosscut
ends together when splicing long lengths instead of bevel-cutting
moldings at mid-wall joints. The molding is applied just like
wood molding except that it cuts and nails easier.
Set the rnolding into your miter box (screw the miter box
down to your sawhorse or work table) and cut it on your mark
with slow, steady strokes as you hold the molding firmly with your
other hand. Support long ends with additionai sawhorses. Don't
bother coping joints in corners; just lay the molding on its back
side and cut at 45 degrees for inside and outside corners. Nails
alone won't do-you must use the polyurethane construction
adhesive to bond the trim to the wall surface to make up for its
low density.

Fili nail holes with spackling compound and then wipe the
with a damp rag (Photo a). This process will take

surface clean

80

PRoJEcrs $bo

ro

$1oo

as

possible because unlike wood, the factory finish on the

urethane molding is thin and can sand off Because you'll
be painting the moiding, you can touch up joints with acrylic
caulk and wipe the excess away with a damp rag. You can save
yourseif a lot of time by prepainting the molding and then touching it up after you've cut and installed it.

tip

t"

widen your miier box as shown in Photo 1 on

p. 81, use a hammer to tap the sides f ree of the
originaL base. DrilL piLot hotes and screw the
sides to the new base. With the wider base, you'tl
be abLe to crosscut and bevel-cut the moldings.
However, the other miter operations won't be
possibLe, since the precut sLots wi[[ no [onger

line up. This won't be a prob[em for cutting the

motdings shown here.

ran

il

tn on

for creating an
elegant paneled wall without the
ere's a simple method

expense of solid lumber or the skill

a

of

master carpenter. This paneled wall is finished

by nailing strips of inexpensive

MDF (medium-

density fiberboard) directly over the drywall.

The square-edged strips are easy to join, and the

'

smooth MDF surface makes a perfect surface

for a flawless paint job.
With a little perseverance, you can nail up
the strips on Saturday, leaving Sunday to sand
and paint. You ll need a basic set ofhand tools, a
circular saw a power miter saw a sander and a
finish nailer to complete the job. See p. 84 for
how to rip the MDF strips with a circular saw
(Photo 2), but ifyou own (or have access to) a

82

PRoJECTS $bo

ro

$1 oo

Creating a new look for one wall or a whote room is as easy as nailing
boards over the drywa[[. Lay out an attractive grid pattern and go to work.
You'[[ be done in a weekend.

table saw, use it instead. Making accurate square

cuts on the end of the strips is easywith a power

miter saw, but you can use a circular saw with a

Ifyou don't have a finish nailer, rent one
for a day ($45 per day with a compressor).
guide.

There's

lot of nailing to do and it will speed up

the job considerably.

Tape a mock-up to the wall

Start by prying off the baseboard and the window and door trim. Slip a wide, stiffputtyknife

behind the pry bar to spread out the pressure

and prevent damage to the drywall. With the

moldings out of the way, tape up 4-in.-wide

strips of masking paper to simulate the look of
the MDF strips (Photo 1). If you can't find
4-in.-wide masking paper at the home center or
paint store, cut a wider roll to 4 in. with a miter
saw Start by placing strips at the top, bottom
and sides. Then run vertical strips along the
windows and doors. Line up horizontal strips
above doors and windows. Add a horizontal
strip under windows too. Now divide the
remaining spaces to create an attractive grid.
When you're happy with the arrangement,
make a dimensioned sketch to guide you later.
Then count the number of 8-ft.-long strips
you'll need to complete the project. You'll get
twelve 3-7l8-in.-wide by 8-ft.-long strips from

What's
MDF and
why should

every 4 x 8-ft. sheet of MDF.

If you're going to change the wall color,

patch imperfections in the wall with spackling
compound. Even if you're not changing the
color, sand and paint before applying the MDF

MDF (medium-density
fiberboardl is a pressed
wood product that offers
severaI advantages over
so[id wood for a project

strips. You'll have to do some touch-up painting

later, but at least the bulk of the work will be

done. This is especially important if you're

going to paint the MDF strips a different color
than the wall.

Like this. First, it's inexpensive [$20 for a 4 x 8-ft.

sheetl compared with

sotid wood, and the

Cut MDF into strips

smooth surface ,oont

great painted. UnLike strips of [umber,

The 4 x 8-ft. sheets of ll2-tn. MDF you'll need

for this project are available at lumberyards and
home centers. If you don't have a way to haul
large sheets, ask a store employee to cut the

which can be bent or twisted, strips ripped

f rom M DF are perfectty straight, sim ptifying instaLLation. And the materiaL is f texibLe enough to conform to sLightLywavywalLs. Fina[Ly, the 1/2-in.-thick
strips [ook nice. (lt's hard to find 112-in. Lumber.]

sheets into 16-in.-wide strips that you can tie to

your car top. Also pick up a few tubes of con-

struction adhesive to attach the strips that don't

align with studs (Photo 7).

Cut the MDF into 3-7l8-in.-wide strips. If

you don't have a table saw to cut the strips,
assemble a cutting guide (Photo 2). Start by
cutting a 6-in.-wide strip from the edge of a
sheet of MDF. Cut another strip 4 in. wide to
use as a stop. Position the stop and screw

use it?

it to

the bottom of the guide so that you can cut

3-718-in.-wide strips by running the edge of the

MDF isn't perfect, though. lt's heavy and the 4 x

8-ft. sheets are hard to handle without heLp. Some

"iTW
:f{"";^:":;;''

home centers wiLL cut it into smaLLer pieces for you.

A[so, the dust f rom cutting and sanding is so f ine
that it'Lt drift and settle on everything in sight untess
you take speciaI precautions. Collect the dust with a
vacuum or dust collection system if possibte. Otherwise, try to do most of your cutting outdoors.

%-ilj-'irq.

llill':

{--l

i:.
ii1
i,
t'

ir

t::

l:Y

lrr

PAPEB

\-

to tay out the wa[ pattern.

{ f.p. up strips of masking paper
I Adjust the arrangement until you like the results. Take a photo as
a reminder of

n
L
it!

the pattern.

Crt straight, uniform strips of MDF fast using a cutting guide

with a stop on the underside. If your saw has a vacuum port. use
Cutting MDF is dusty.

81

PROJECTS sso

ro sloo

]
J

s.no rne cur eoges o, .nu ,.r',pr\'F

fast by ctamping several strips together.

saw base against the guide. With this setup, you

won't have to measure for each strip. Just reposition the guide and clamp it to the MDF sheet

after each cut.

Note: Sawdust from MDF is very fine and

will cover everything in sight ifyou're not

care-

ful. Cut outdoors if possible. Otherwise, put an

exhaust fan in the window and use a shop vacuum to collect dust from power tools. Make
sure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses

4;:1T,';:o.on.,

when cutting.

to avoid fussy

After ripping the strips, sand the

edges to
bunch of the strips
together and sand all of the edges at once to
speed up the job and avoid rounding over the
corners (Photo 3). Use a random orbital sander

remove saw marks. Clamp

brushwork later.
Ro[[ on a coat of
primer, let it dry
and sand lightty.
Then roll on a coat

of paint.

and 80-grit paper.

tip

,.. a /r-in.wide foam

mini rotter
IPhoto 4] to
appty the

primer and
paint. You'[[
get a smooth
finish, free of
brush marks.

After

sanding,

leave the clamps

in place while you
roll on a coat of

quick-drying,
stain-blocking
primer such as
KILZ or BIN.After
the primer dries,
sand lightly and

apply one coat of paint. Prepainting the edges

save you a lot of time on the final paint job.

will

Nailthe strips to the wall

Start by locating the studs. Look for drywall
screws or baseboard nail holes as a clue to stud
locations. Or use an electronic stud finder. Stick
pieces of masking tape to the floor to mark the
locations. Cut MDF rails (horizontal strips) to

fit along the floor and ceiling and nail them to

the studs with 2-in. brads (Photo 5). Next cut
stiles (vertical strips) to fit between the rails at
the corners and along the sides ofwindows and

doors and nail them to the wall (Photos 6 and

7). Position the stiles 1/4 in. from the inside
edge of door and window jambs to leave l/4 in.
of the jamb exposed.

f, n.it the base and ceiling rails to studs.

r/with 3O-degree bevel cuts.

splice raits over studs. Join the ends

6i;:1*m'.

them with a utility

knife rather than a
pencil to create
fine, precise cutting
marks.

Determine the positions of the remaining

stiles by dividing the space evenly according to

your original layout. Hook your tape measure

on the left side of the farthest left stile and
measure to the ieft side of the farthest right
stile. Divide this measurement by the number
of spaces you want. The result is the distance
from the left edge ofany one stile to the left edge
of the next stile. Mark the locations on the bottom and top rails. Then cut the remaining stiles

to length. Appiy two beads of construction

adhesive to the back of the strips before tacking

them to the wall with 2-in. brads (Photo 7).

PANEL A WALL IN ONE WEEKEND

85

With the top and bottom rails and all the

in place, it's time to fill in the rest of the

stiles

rails. Start by stretching a mason's line tightly

across the top of the windows or doors, making
sure to leave a ll4-in. reveal on the jamb. Make
a pencil mark where the string intersects each
stile (Photo 8), Then cut rails to fit between the
stiles, align them with the marks and nail them
to the wall. If you have

a window, align another

set of rails with the bottom of the window
Then divide the remaining space and mark the

rail locations on the stiles (Photo 9), Complete the

paneled wall by cutting rails to

fit between the

stiles at each mark and nailing them to the wali.

Filland sand fora perfect

paint job

]
f

Fasten the stites without worrying about stud tocations. Apply adhesive to
the stites and tack them to the drywalt with brads. The brads hotd them in
place until the adhesive dries.

Fill the nail holes and other imperfections with

spackling compound. Let it dry and sand it
smooth. Nail holes may require two coats of
spackling. Where they intersect, sand the MDF

strips flush with an orbital sander (Photo 10).

Caulk the cracks where the MDF meets the side

walls and ceiling. When you're done filling,

sanding and caulking, roll or brush a coat of
stain-blocking primer onto the face of the MDF
strips. Finish the job by painting the face of the

MDF strips and touching up the wall paint.

the position of the rails above and below the windows. Use a mason's
line to atign the marks with the windows.
Mark

fl
7

otuiu. the remaining space and

marf the location of-the rails on
the stiles. Cut the rails and nail them
to the studs.
PRoJECTS $50 T0 $100

10

::'il :l"T:'.',

Sand any uneven areas

flush surface.

tl'J lil: " "

for a smooth,

r
'frqrt ro
J>J )r,fnrCI foof n
F

JI

palrr J

a\

\-,

t/t/ I

cl1 3gJaft
I

/a\

-a,

-J )
\J

'j
\'^i.;

sir"rgle u.eeker-rd.

or lcss th;rn $100, vou cr.rn transform il roor)t iu.t

Ali it takcs is some paint, c.lrrze ancl

rvall to rchier,e;r drarratic eifect. You could cornplete a nall in a

day, but it's better to set asrcle a r,eckencl to allol,plentv ofdrving

ntasking tapc.

tir.nc tretrvccn coats oiglazc.

'I'he

tecl-rniqucs Ibr n-rasking and glazing are eiisv to learn and

clon't recluire arnv spccial skills. Horvever, r.oLr ivill r-reed a goocl bit

of pirticnce since thc finish entlils niultiple

lar.ers

of glazc

ancl

jp1

nn.

careful applications of mirsliins tirpe . You onlv ncecl to

p.r

PANEL. A \,vALL

'l'he flrst step is

io paint the l'.rll u'ith tl-re base coart color. For
this voLr'll need tvprcal painting supplics llie a steplaclder, drop
i],'11r. t.,ri",U,r.,'lr .rn.l rollcr.

lN 0NE v/EEKENDiTRANSFcRN4

A ROOt'/ w Tl-t pA NTED RECTANGLES 87

Recipe for

rectangles
Base coat cotor: Benjamin Moore
Semoti na 2155-40, eg gshel.t.

First set of rectangles: One part

Benjamin Moore Dash of Curry
2159-10 thinned with 3 parts Ben-

jamin Moore Latex Gtaze Extender

CLear 408.

Sesond set of rectangles: 0ne part

Modern Masters Tequita

M

Gol.d

E661 thinned with two parts

Glaze Extender.

Third set of rectangtes: One part

Modern Masters Gotd Rush ME658

thinned with two parts Gtaze

Extender.

Fourth layer of rectangtes:

One

part Modern Masters Ftash Copper

ME656 thinned

with one part

Glaze Extender.

Random rectangles
Four layers of glazed boxes overlap to create this contemporary
design. Golden hues are used here, but you could produce the
same effect using different colors. In general, use a darker or more
opaque color for the first layer ofboxes, and lighten the color and

watercolor lines will disappear

increase the transparency for each of the three succeeding layers.

color that hasn't been covered by previous layers.

Tape off a series of boxes. Then, using the following steps,
you ll spread a thin layer of glaze within the taped-off boxes to
create a cloudy effect. Wet the sponges and wring them out before

Where layers overlap, new shades and colors will appear. That's
why it's essential to create a sample board before you start.
Latex paint thinned with glaze was used for the first layer, and
thinned semi-opaque metallic finishes were used for the next two
Iayers. Before

you commit to applying the finish to the wall,

choose your colors and mix the glazes. Then make a sample board

of drywall, hardboard or MDF (medium-density fiberboard) and applying the glaze. Overlap sections of glaze
on the board to see the effect. Of course, if you like the way this
wall looks, just copy the recipe shown in the box above. When
you re happy with the choice of colors, you can start on the wall.
Choosing the size and position of the boxes may seem daunting, but don't worry. The wall will look better with each layer you
by painting

a piece

apply. Buy a watercolor pencil at an art supply store in a color that

matches your color scheme and use

88

PRoJEcrs $so To $r

oo

it to mark

the walls. The

as

you apply the glaze to the boxes.

Square and rectangular boxes that ranged in size from a 34 x 14-in.

rectangle to

48-in. square were used here. Photos I

3 show

the

process. Draw the fourth layer of boxes to enclose any base coat

6-in.Jong swaths of
glaze on a small section of a box. "Pounce" the flat side of a second
dampened sponge onto the glaze to spread it out. Rinse the
pouncing sponge in clean water occasionally to get rid ofbuilt-up
glaze. Work quickly across the box so that you never have to overstarting. Then use one sponge to spread

lap onto an area of glaze

a few

thatt already dry. Complete all the

boxes

with the first glaze color and let the glaze dry at least a couple of
hours before starting on the next layer.

Draw another set ofboxes on the wall that overlaps the first set
and repeat the glazing process. Repeat these steps for the third
layer. Complete the wall by covering any unglazed base coat with
the fourth layer of glazed rectangles,

GLAZED
RECTANGLE

APPLICATION

SPONGE

{I

Nart rectangles on the wall using a level and a watercolor

pencil. Then frame the rectangtes with masking tape.

Spread random 6-in. swaths of glaze with the end of a

sponge. Pounce with the second sponge to spread the gtaze.

Cornertechnique
Finishing right up to an inside
corner wiih a sponge is diff icuLt.
You'[t get uneven coverage or a

W*i:;,

buiLdup of gtaze

that Looks bad. A

better technique is to f inish within

a few inches of the corner with
the sponge. Then, while the finish
is still wet, use a dry brush in a

OF GLAZE

-1.':"1

pouncing motion to work the

gLaze into the corner.

tr.t:

Q
J

nl:i r!

nUa a second. third and fourth layer of overlapping boxes, using a lighter-colored
glaze for each layer. Let the glaze dry at least two hours between layers.
TRANSFORM A ROOM WITH PAINTED RECTANGLES

89

box
ot only do these storage boxes look nice, but they're easy to buildjust fasten together four sides and put on the back. This is one ofthose
rare woodworking projects that combines high style, low cost and
super-simple construction.

Built from standard oak or birch plywood, these 12 x l2-in' boxes will cost
about $50 for a dozen, so you can build a bunch for less than $100. Ifyou use
standard plywood, you'll have to patch voids in the edges with wood filler or
cover the edges with edge banding. To avoid that extra work, you can use Baltic
birch plywood, which has better-looking, void-free edges. Baltic birch costs
about $85 for a 3/4-in. x 60-in. x 60-in. sheet, which will give you five boxes.

If your home

center doesn't stock Baltic birch, look for

it at a hardwood

specialty store (check under "Hardwood Suppliers" in the yellow pages to find
a source). Use standard 1/4-in. plywood for the backs even if you use Baltic

Time and tools

You can build a dozen or more boxes in a few hours. Spend Saturday assembling

the boxes and applying the finish, then hang them or fasten them together on
Sunday. To complete the project,

you'll need a table saw to rip the plywood

sheets and a circular saw to crosscut the top, back and sides. A brad nailer

90

PRoJEcrs sbo

ro sloo

The boxes work equatly welL in a formaI

setting and a utiLitarian room, Like the
laundry or garage. They offer an un[imited number of uses and arrangements.

q
fr

f;

birch for the sides.

make nailing the boxes together

Elegant or practical

lot easier, but you could also use

will

hammer.

ilfr

Figure A
Modular boxes
SIDES
314" x11-114" x12"

BACK
23-1/2" x 11-112"
/4" PLYWOOD)

1/4" REVEAL
BACK
11-112"

x 11-1/2"

(1/4" PLYWOOD)

TOPAND BOTTOM

Materials list

SIDES
3/4" x 11-1/4" x 12',

TOPAND BOTTOM
3/4"x11-1/4"x10-112"

3/4" x 48" x 96" pLywood, one sheet per eight

12" x 12" boxes or five 12" x24" boxes
1/4" x48" x 96" pLywood, one sheet

Cut the pieces to size

Get started by ripping the 3/4-in. plywood sheets into I l-1/4-in.wide strips on a table saw Cut out any dents and dings along the
edges.

Itt important that

these pieces be exactly the same

width so

the boxes will be aligned when they're stacked together. Also rip
the 1/4-in. plywood sheet into 11-l/2-in.-wide strips.
Crosscut the box tops, bottoms, sides and back panels to
length following Figure A, above. Make the crosscuts with a circular saw and a guide (Photo I ).

Assemble the boxes

Placing adjacent sides in a carpenter's square ensures crisp
90-degree angles when you fasten the corners together. Set the
square over wood blocks and clamp it to your work surface, Set
one side and the top or bottom in the square, apply wood glue
along the edge, and nail the corner together with l-1/2-in. brad
nails (Photo 2).
Fasten the remaining corners the same way. Leave the box in
the carpenter's square to keep the corners square, then add the
back panel (Photo 3). The back panels are I I 2 in.smaller than the

overall box size to leave a ll4-in, reveal along each edge. This
makes the edges less conspicuous when the boxes are installed.

Apply

finish

Once your boxes are fully assembled, it's time to apply a finish.
Sand the boxes

with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough

with a clean cloth.

spots, then wipe away the dust

tt'. box parts straight and square with a homemade

crosscut guide. Stack two layers of ptywood strips to cut
perfectly matching parts fast.

{I

Cut

If you want to paint the boxes, first prime them with a latex
primer. Foam rollers work great for applying smooth coats of
primer and paint. Brush on the primer in the corners, then roll
the rest. Let the primer dry, lightly sand the boxes with 120-grit
sandpaper, then apply the paint.
sUPER-srMpLE Box

SHELVES

91

t)
4

auita perfectty square boxes by assembling them against

carpenter's square. Drive three nails per corner to hold
them together until the glue dries.

L
It

orive two screws near the front.

ttide screw heads with wooden

!
J

Center the back panel over the box, leaving a small gap
atong each side. Gtue and nait the panet into ptace. The
back panel keeps the box square.

f
J

nrrange the boxes any way you tike. Spaces between boxes
can form compartments too.

"buttons" after screwing boxes together.

These stained shelves have two coats of stain-Minwax
Golden Oak followed by Minwax Ebony-and two coats of a
water-based polyurethane.

a brad point drill bit ($3). The brad point won't tear or
chip the veneer. Then drill 1/8-in. pilot holes in the countersink

hole with

a standard bit.
Drive a 1-in. wood screw into the pilot hole, countersinking

holes using

Hang the boxes

the head. Dab paint or stain on the screw hole button and plug the

Once the finish is dry, you can screw the boxes together or hang

hole (Photo 4).

them on a wall. Be sure to hang the boxes with the side pieces
overlapping the top and bottom,

as

shown in Figure A. This keeps

the corner nails horizontal and makes the box stronger. Still, the
boxes are not designed to hold a lot ofweight. Countersinking the
screw head and filling the hole with a 3/8-in. screw hole button
hides the fastener. Screw hole buttons are available at home centers.

To fasten boxes together, first clamp them so they're perfectly

flush. Then drill a 3/8-in.-diameter, 3/16-in.-deep countersink

92

PRoJEcrs $bo

ro

$r oo

To hang a box where there's a stud,

drill two l/8-in. pilot holes.

Then spray-paint the heads of 2-U2-in. screws and drive them

into the stud at the pilot holes (there's no alternative to leaving the
heads exposed). If there's not a stud available, use self-drilling
anchors, such as EZ Ancors. Drill pilot holes through the box into
the wall, remove the box and drive the anchors into the wall at the
marks. Then fasten the box to the wall using the screws included

with the anchors.

Steppinqstone
path
teppingstone paths
offer many of the
advantages of concrete sidewalks and paver
stone but without all the
work, expense and mess. You
can save wear and tear on

your lawn in heavily used

routes or take

trip to the gar-

den without getting your feet

wet from the morning dew

Since you only remove
enough sod to place the
stones, you can lay this path
without tearing up your lawn.
And if you pile the dirt and
sod on a tarp as you work,
cleanup can be easy too.

Almost any type of flat

will work as long as

stones

they're about 2 in. thick.

This project uses limestone
steppingstones from a pile at
the local landscape supply

center for about $2 each,

You'll also need a 60-lb. bag
of playground sand for every
l0 stones.

{I

Space the steppingstones along the

path to match your stride, Using the

stones as patterns, cut through the sod
around each stone with a drywal[ saw or
a bread knife.

Uor" the stone to the side and dig

out the sod with a trowel. Dig the
hole 1 in. deeper than the thickness of
the stone to atlow for the sand base.

)
E

noughly levet a 1-in. layer of sand

in the hole. Set the stone on the
sand and wiggte it until it's flush with

Q
J

the surrounding sod. Add or remove sand

as necessary.

supER-stN4pLE B0X SHELVES; srEpptNGSToNE

pATH

93

Paint yqur

:i
rl

ki \chen cdbineft
L *uo
l

(D{D

ainting cabinets with enamel is more difficult than

painting a room, but in the scheme of do-it-yourself
projects, it's still pretty easy. If you go at it methodically
and take your time, you can do a great job, even ifyou've never
painted a fine enamel finish before. The enamel will revive your
kitchen without the major expense of remodeling-and without
the hassle of closing down the kitchen. Use these painting tech-

and most time-consuming approach, You can strip the old finish
off, bleach the wood, and apply

white stain (see "Getting

white

stain finish," p. 96). This Iightens the color dramatically but allows

the grain of the wood to show through, giving a "pickled" or

whitewashed look. The whole procedure will take about

week.

The success of this approach depends on the original color of

the wood and how much of the old stain you can remove.

niques on the cabinet faces, cabinet doors and cabinet drawers.

Painting options
There are three basic approaches you can take to paint
your cabinets:
1.

Paint over the old finish.

To do this, clean the cabinets

thoroughly with TSP substitute or laundry detergent, and sand

them with 100-grit sandpaper-every inch-to roughen up the
surface. Then vacuum and use a tack cloth (Photo 4) to remove
the dust. Apply a shellac-based primer (BIN is a common brand;
$24 per gal.). Apply a coat of enamel undercoater ($20 per gal.).
Sand the cabinets and remove the dust, then apply a finish coat

of

enamel ($24 per gal.)

This method is fast (two to three days) and easy, but unfortu-

3. Strip, then enam!. You can strip the old finish off,
apply two coats of enamel undercoatet then paint the cabinets
with a gloss or semi-gloss enamel ($24 per gal.). This will give you
the longestJasting finish and is the one used in the kitchen shown
here. It takes about a week, and with average use, the finish should
last

10 years. It can also be repainted.

Whichever approach you use, replace the knobs and hinges to

complete the makeover.

Covering oakgrain
cabinets, you probably won't be able to get the
paint
flat
finish that is possible on fine-grained woods
absolutely
pores ofoak grain show up even under sevThe
deep
like birch.

If you have oak

eral coats ofpaint.

nately, the paint doesn't get as good a grip on the cabinets as it

If you like the look of the grain showing through the paint,

does when you paint bare wood, and the enamel can chip off. Use

there's no problem. If you want a mirrot-smooth finish, leave the

this approach if you are gentle with your cabinets and you aren't
looking for the longest-lasting paint job.

original finish on and sand it hard, all over, with 150-grit sandpaper. The idea is to save the old finish in the pores, and sand the finish off the surrounding areas. Follow with two coats of under-

2. Strip, bleach, then stain white.

coater and

91

PRoJEcrs $50

ro

$1oo

This is the toughest

coat ofenamel.

{I

Strain your paint before every coat-even paint that,s fresh

from the can. Use a stocking or a commerciat paint fitter.

Q
J

nepair the surface after the primer coat, using wood putty
for holes and spackting compound for gouges.

If you have oak cabinets, test your paint finish on a drawer

front or door back before painting the whole kitchen.

Stripping the cabinets

Kitchen cabinet finishes are usually very easy to remove, although
Iike all stripping, it makes a mess. you can use either a traditional
solvent-based stripper or a water-based stripper. If you use a
solvent-based stripper, wear rubber gloves and safety goggles,

don't smoke, and have plenty of cross ventilation-an open

window at one end of the room and a fan at the other is a good
system. Water-based strippers are simpler and less smelly,
but slower.

The stripping operation itself isn't difficult, but ir is timeconsuming. Follow the directions and apply the stripper in one
direction only, then let it sit until the finish bubbles. Scrape rhe
finish off with a dull putty knife. For crevices, use medium steel
wool (solvent-based strippers) or a plastic scrub pad (water-based
strippers). Clean the wood as suggested by the stripper manufacturer, and lightly sand with 120-grit sandpaper after it's dry.
Let the stripping residue dry, then throw it in the trash. This is
the environmentally safe disposal method.

Ten steps to a great

Glossy enamel paints are

finish

unkind to careless painters-they exag-

)E

er;ne the surface with an appropriate undercoater. Lay the

doors and drawers flat for painting.

Use a tack cloth before every coat, after sanding thoroughly

with 15O-grit sandpaper and vacuuming off the dust.

touch-up will be glaringly obvious. That last coat of enamel has to

be perfect, because there's no repairing

it.
Don't be daunted, though. If you're careful, and observe the
following 10 rules, you'll get a great finish.
1. Use

oil enamgl.

less smell,

Latex enamel is easier to clean up and has

but oil enamel flows out better, leveling itself into

smooth surface free of brush marks. Use enamel in a well-ventilated

area, but not with a fan nearby-it'll pull dust onto the paint.

2. Use a good bruSh. Use a top-quality china-bristle brush

for oil enamel. It's not hard to tell brush quality-just look at the
price tag.

It'll

be between $5 and $15.

3. Strain the paint.

This is essential. Even new paint, fresh

from the can, should be strained, and be absolutely sure to strain

before your final coat.

Strain the paint into a clean container, using either manufactured paper filters (available at home centers and paint stores for

$l), or an old nylon stocking (Photo l).

4. Paint items horizontally when possible.

Lay

the doors flat on a work surface or sawhorses, and keep the

drawer fronts horizontal (Photo 2). This allows the paint to flow

gerate the drips, brush marks, flecks of dirt, brush hairs and all
other possible imperfections of a paint job. With a flat paint, you

less likely.

can touch up most of these problems, but not with a gloss enamel.
You can't sand glossy enamel without destroying the gloss, and a

5. Paint door backs first.

out evenly, eliminating brush marks, and making drips and sags

PATNT

tf you paint the fronts first,

YouR KtrcHEN

cABtNETS 95

f
J

fip off the final

coat of enamel in the direction of the

wood grain by gently dragging just the tip of the brush

the cabinets
f,, n.* hardware finishes off the job and makesprotect
the
lJ look new. These knobs have a backplate to

through the paint.

paint finish.

when the doors are turned over to paint their backs, the paint on
the front can get marred.

what's left.

6. Use two coats of enamel undercoatel This is a

primer specially made for use with enamels-it sands particularly
easily and grips the wood well. The third and last coat will be your

undercoater, vacuum offthe dust, then use

tack cloth to remove

9. Paint in a dust-free area. And don't walk near the wet

paint because you'll kick up dust from the floor.

thoroughly.

1O. Sand

gloss enamel.

Remove all dust specks and surface

with 100-grit sandor 150-grit sandpaper

blemishes before you put on each coat. Start

7. Tip

off liqhtly.

For every painting step, drag the tip of the

brush lightly through the paint (Photo 5) in the direction ofthe

wood grain ("tipping off"). This reduces brush marks to their
smallest size, making it easier for the paint to flow out.

8. Use a tack cloth.

After you sand bare wood or

paper before the first coat, then use 120between coats.

After you've painted your cabinets, and the finish is dry

(around 24 hours), install the new hardware and hang the doors.
Be gentle with the enamel finish for a few days, though, because
even though it feels dry, it's still soft.

Getting a white stain finish

lf you want a bright, cheerful. look, but you don't want to
cover up the wood grain, you can try a white stain finish,
also catled a "pickl.ed" finish. ln the past, this finish was

difficul.t to achieve, but now it's apptied [ike any other

wood stain. You can buy the white stain at paint stores or
home centers. Minwax white wash pickling stain is one
brand {$10 perqt.i.
First, strip off a smat[, inconspicuous spot to see if

the existing stain comes off with the finish. lf it does, go

ahead and strip the rest of the cabinets and apply the
white stain.

lf the stain doesn't come off with the finish, you't[

need to scrub the stain out of the pores of the wood
(Photo 1 l, then appty one or two coats of bteach or oxalic
acid ($7.50 for 1 Lb. at paint siores or rockter.coml. Then
apply two coats of stain. Wipe the f irst coat down into the
pores but keep it off the surface. Let it dry, then wipe a
second coat onto the surface.
You can then doctor the stain to make it more opaque
{add enamel undercoaterl, more transparent (add sand-

ing seal.erl or a sl,ightly different shade ladd a tiny

amount of artist's

oiL

paint).

,.
:,la::
: , *s.::,
. S\il'

'.-:r"

sil';::

,l
I

sttip the old finish, using

brass brush to tift the old

stain and finish out of the pores

of the wood.

96

PROJECTS $50 TO $1OO

C
L

nppty bteach with a sponge, putfing it on uniformty and gener-

ousty. Rubber gtoves are essential.

?
rJ

lppty two coats of stain with

a rag or brush, wiping the
so it goes only into
pores.

first coat off

the

Under-bed

roll'out
ome of the most useful and
underutilized storage space in the

bedroom is right under the bed, and

you can take advantage of it with this durable
roll-out chest, made from a single sheet of plywood for $60. Plastic versions are also available
for as little as $20, but wood looks better, lasts longer and lets you
custom-size your roll-out.
Measure the distance between the floor and the bottom of the
bed. Subtract ll2 tn. for clearance under the bed and l/2 in. (on
bare wood) to I in. (on thick carpet) for casters. Subtract another
l/2 in. lbr the hinged top to arrive at the maximum height for the

Cutting list
KEY QTY.

A
B
C
D

storage box sides.

Mark all the pieces on a sheet of pl1'wood and cut them with a
table saw or a circular saw. Fasten 3/4-in. square nailers to the
edges of the base with glue and finish nails or screws (Il2-in.plywood is too thin to nail into on edge). Attach the sides to the base,

adding square nailers at the corners. Fasten the caster supports to

the sides, then nail the outer side pieces to the caster supports.

Attach the front and back. Add the filler strips on top of the
caster supports and the last nailer along the top edge of the back.
Finally, nail on the fixed top, set the hinged top against it and

1
2
4
1

F
G
H
J
K

2
3
4
2
4

SIZE & DESCRIPTION

42" x30-112" top

42" x6" front and back

33" x 6" sides
42" x4" fixed top

J/ XJJ

bASC

x 3/4" x 3/4" side naiters

35-1/2" x3/4" x314" front and back naiters
4-3/4" x3/4" x314" corner naiters

33"

33

x 1-1/2" fi[[er strips

3-5lB" x1-112" x5-112" castersupports

Note: AII 1/2" pLywood

screw on the hinges. Attach the hinges using 1/2-in. screws so the
screws don't stick through the top.

.'t7---

Materials list
ITEM
/+'

x8' xl12" pLywood

3' x314" x 3/4" square dowe[s

2x6x2'pine

2" f ixed caster wheeLs

-112" hinges

-----<:!

-.9.

QTY.

AC-grade

12',

.-

12"

Figure

1" and 1-112" brad nails

Note: Atl mateiols and dimensions ore for a
7-1/2-in.-tatl under-bed spoce. If you hove nore
or [ess space, adjust these measurements.

J-/

1iIi
B

,il- Er-^
i

---s-

]'

0veral[ dimensions:

7" Hx42"

x34-7/2"

PAINT YOUR KITCHEN CABINETSI UNDER-BED ROLL OUT

97

9 ways to

save electri
ith electricity prices on the rise, opening your utility bill can be a sobering

experience. The following pages

show how to lower that

bill

as

much as possible.

These nine tips can cut your electric

bill by up to

40 percent.

Everlthing you need to start saving is available at

home centers or online. But before you start, find

..

r?
I Lv v
^ tV

4w '

w*r
tm

MT-Iru t4b]

sTlros taTTHo[,R lriETER

60Hz

?o 487 353

out about rebate programs by contacting your local util-

ity

company and reading "Web Sites That Can

Save You

Money" on p. 101. You might just get a check for sav-

ing electricity!

lnstall smarter switches

Motion sensors (occupancy sensors)
automatically turn lights on and off
so you only get (and pay for!) light
when you need it (Photo 1). Using

motion sensors can

save

you $100

per year. Some motion sensors need

to be manually turned on but turn

off automatically. They're great for
bedrooms because they won't turn

IEEE,

%r

on when you move in your sleep.

Some switches are installed in

junction boxes; others are wireless.
You can also buy light fixtures with

qBE

built-in motion

sensors. You'll
need special motion sensors for

electronic ballasts that control

CFLs (Leviton's ODS10, $64, is one

type). Special-order them at home

centers or buy them at grainger.com

solution
S n tit.t lets you turn on the fan and
automati- & watk away. You don't have to remember to come back later and turn it off.
cally so you don't waste electricity.
4
&

motion sensors are the perfect

for Left-on tights. They turn off

(800-323-0620).
Use timers to control bath fans so the fan

will run for a preset

time to air out the room and then automatically turn off (Photo
2). You can set the lengh of time you want the fan to run. Timer

98

spEctAL sECTt0N: ENERGY-sAVtNG PR0JEcrs

switches start at $21. Be sure the timer you buy is rated for
motors, not just lighting (check the label).

y Energy Star appliances

When you shop for appliances, look for the
Energy Star label. It means the appliance
meets certain energy-efficiency guidelines.
The average household spends $2,000 each
year on energy bills. Energy Star says that
appliances bearing its label can cut those

bills by 30 percent, for an annual savings of

about $600. But you don't have to replace

every'thing to

see a savings. Just

replacing an

eight-year-old refrigerator with a new

Energy Star model can save

$ll0

a year

or

more in electricity.

Not sure what to do with your old appliance? Recycle it.

Don't salvage and resell

it-

that only passes the electricity-hogging

appliance along to someone else. Check

with your utility company or local home

center for programs for appliance pickup
and recycling. Or visit dsireusa.org.

Look for the Energy star label when buying appliances.

meets strict standards for energy efficiency.

It te[s

you that the product

Service your air conditioner

Roughly half of an average home's annual energy
(gas and electric), about g1,000, is spent on

bill

heating and cooling. Air conditioners placed

in direct sunlight use up to 10 percent more electricity. Ifyours sits in the sun, plant tall shrubs or
shade trees nearby-but don't enclose the unit
or impede the airflow. Place window units on
the north side of the house or install an awning
over them.
Keep your window or central air conditioner
tuned up so it runs at peak efficiency. Every two or
three years, call in a pro to check the electrical parts
and the refrigerant (expect to pay $150).
If your central air conditioner is more than 12

old, replacing it with an Energy Star model

can cut your cooling costs by 30 percent and save

years

maintenance costs. The payback for replacing a

12-year-old system is typically about eight years.
An air conditioner's efficiency level is measured by

to keep your air conditioner running at peak efficiency is to spend

a couple of hours each year on basic maintenance-cteaning and straightening
the fins, changing the filter and tubricating the motor.
The best way

the seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). The

higher the number, the more efficient the unit. A
13

or 14 SEER rating is considered high efficiency.

SPECIAL SECTI0N: ENERGY-SAVING

PROJECTS 99

Kill energy vampires

Seventy-five percent of the electrical use by home

electronics occurs when they're turned off,

according to the Department of Energy. These
"energy vampires" suck electricity all day

long-

costingyou an extra $100 eachyear. So ifyou'd like

to keep that Ben Franklin in your wallet, unplug

your electronics or plug them into a power strip,
then turn offthe strip.
Don't worry about losing the settings on new
computers and TVs. They have a memory chip
that resets everything when you power back up. If
you have an old VCR or other devices that flash
when the power goes out, keep it plugged in. Some
power strips,like the BITS Smart Strip shown ($40
at energyfederation.org; 800 -37 9 - 4121), have a
few outlets that always have power even when you

flip off the switch. This type of strip has a main

outlet for the computer. When you turn off the
computer, the strip also shuts down other devices,
such

Add attic insulation

In most homes, but especially in older homes, adding insulation in
the attic will cut heat loss. At a minimum, homes should have
attic insulation between R-22 and
R-49 (6 to 13 in. of loose fill or 7 to
'r i :l-.' EiShty Percent of
19 in. of fiberglass batts). Visit
houses buitt
energystar.gov (search "attic insubefore 1 980 are
u

nderi nsu [ated.

-Depaftment of
Energy

lation") or energy.gov for the

recommended level for your area.

Stick your head through the

attic access door and measure how much insulation you have. If your

insulation is at or below the minimum, adding some will lower your

heating bills.
If you need to add more, go with loose-fiIl insulation rather than
fiberglass batts even ifyou already have fiberglass. Loose fiIl is usually
composed of cellulose or fiberglass and lets you cover joists and get
sq. ft. to blow in 7 to 8 in. of
insulation. You can rent a blower ($55 a day) and do the job yourself
for less than half that cost, but it's a messy job and you have to watch
your step so you don't go through the dri'wall "floor" in the attic'

into crevices. Pros charge about 704 per

100

spEctAL sECTroN: ENERGy-sAVtNG PR0JEcrs

as

your scanner, printer or modem.

Change furnace filter

Savings: Up to SeO a year

Web sitesthatcan
save you money
Looking for rebate programs that pay
you to buy energy-efficient products
and apptiances? Check out these sites.
You'tL atso f ind sites where you can buy
energy-eff icient products.

w energy.gov. The Department of

Energy's site provides information
on how to use energy more efficiently in your home.

w dsireusa.org. A database of state

incentives for using energy-efficient
prod ucts.

w efi.org. Energy Federation lnc. setts

energy-eff icient products.

& energystar.gov. Energy Star offers

advice for buying energy-efficient
products and appIiances, and cutting
eLectricaI and energy costs.

Keeping your furnace (gas or electric) tuned up has two big benefits: It makes the
furnace run efficiently and it prolongs the furnace's life span. And you can perform
the annual tune-up yourselfin about three hours.
Change the
also used for

energytaxincentives.org. The

filter every month ofthe heating season (or year-round ifthe filter is
Be sure you insert the new one so it faces the right way. The filter

A/c).

protects the blower and its motor;

use more power.

a clogged

Tax

Incentives Assistance Project provides information on using federaI

income tax incentives for energyefficient products.

filter makes the motor work harder and

Save on electric water heatin

Savings: Up to SZS a year
If you only use an electric water heater at certain times of the day, you're wasting electricity
keeping the water hot 2417. To solve that problem, install an electronic timer switch (Photo l;
$40 at home centers). Timers are available for

120- and 240-volt heaters. They can be programmed for daily or weekiy schedules so you
only heat the water when you need it. A timer
can save you $25 per year.

To make your water heater even more efficient, drain the tank and flush out the sediment
at the bottom (Photo 2 and p. 48). Otherwise,

you could be heating through inches of sediment before heating the water.

If your electric water heater

,*

A timer turns on the water heater

onty when you need it, so you
don't waste electricity heating and
reheating water that sits in the tank.
...r.

is warm or hot

to the touch, it's losing heat. Wrap it with an

insulating blanket (922 at home centers).

".$ Sediment lowers the efficiency

of your water heater. Turn off

i!!r

the power, hook up a hose to the

drain valve and drain the tank every
6 to 12 months.

spEctAL SECTIoN: ENERGy-sAVtNG

pR0JEcrs

101

Get smart metering

Savings: Up to StaO a year
Smart metering programs vary among
utility companies, but the basic idea is the
same: The utility installs a special "smart"
meter that tracks how much electricity
you're using. The utility uses that data to
make sure its power grid doesn't get overloaded and cause blackouts. If the grid
nears capacity, the utility can shut off
major appliances in homes for short peri-

ods of time (such as l5 minutes per

hour). Not all companies offer smart
metering, but some do and many others
are considering it.
What's in it for you? Moneyl Some
programs pay about $7.50 per month for
signing up. Others let you view your

home's usage online in reai time so you

can better manage your electrical consumption. Others let you choose "realtime" or "time-of-use" pricing that allows
you to pay less for electricity that's used
during off-peak hours (for example, on
weekdays from early afternoon until 8
p.m.). These plans reward you for using

electricity when it's cheapest. Smart

metering makes the most sense if you're
away from home all day-you won't
notice or care if things get turned off
(although it's a good idea for everyone

'tr

-g
Time-of-use meters replace the existing
meter and attach to the meter box. They
enable you to pay less for electricity
used at certain times of the day.

else

too!). According to SRP, a power utility company, the plans cut 7 percent off

$2,000 yearly energy bill. Check with your

local company to find out what smart
programs are available in your

your bill, which is $140 for the average

il::rtt

ur refrigerator for less

Your refrigerator uses more electricity than all
your other kitchen appliances combined. To keep
its energy costs down, clean the coils twice

a year,

which improves efficiency by 30 to 50 percent.

Your fridge and freezer run more efficiently

when they're full. Put water containers in

the fridge and ice bags in your freezer to keep
them filled. Keep the refrigerator setting between
35 and 38 degrees and the freezer between 0 and
5 degrees F.

Refrigerator door seals wear out over time.

your seal by closing a dollar bill in the door. If

Test

it pulls out easily, replace the seal.

If your fridge was made before 2001, it's using
at least 40 percent more electricity than new

Energy Star models.

If you're replacing your

fridge, buy an Energy Star model and recycle your

old one (visit recyclemyoldfridge.com to find out

how). Don't hook up the old one in the basement
or garage-an inefficient refrigerator costs as
much as $280 a year in electricity, according to
the Consumer Energy Center. Any money you
buying food in bulk and storing it in an inefficient second fridge is lost in electric costs.

save

1O2 spEcrAt

sECTIoN: ENERGy-sAVrNG PR0JEcrs

Brush and vacuum the coits at the bottom or the back of the refrigerator. A coil
cleaning brush ($6 at apptiance parts stores or amazon.com) is bendable to fit in

tight

areas.

Save $f 50

with CFLs

ompact fluorescent lights really aren't "new" any more.

Ed Hammer, a GE engineer, invented the modern CFL in
the 1970s in response to that decade's energy crisis.

Thirty years later, CFLs have become mainstream, although some

consumers, especially those who had bad experiences with the
earlyversions, have been slow to jump on board. Many of the earlier CFLs took a while to reach full brightness, and once they did,
the light had a cold, bluish quality that many people found unappealing. Advances in design and manufacturing-specifically,
new electronic ballasts-have reduced the time it takes for CFLs
to reach full brightness. Electronic ballasts have also helped eliminate annoying flicker and hum. Plus, you can now buy bulbs that

emit a "warm" light, if that's what you prefer.

And the energy savings are real. Choose a CFL with the Energy
Star label and you can save $30 or more in electricity costs over
the life of the bulb (compared with the costs of using an incandescent bulb for the same amount of time).

Ilisposing of broken and spentbutbs

All

CFLs contain a small amount of mercury, which can be

harmful to people, pets and the environment. If you break a CFL
bulb, have people and pets leave the room. Open a window for at
least 15 minutes so no one breathes in any fine mercury dust.
Then return and scoop up the debris with a piece of cardboard.
(Small particles can be wiped up with a damp paper towel.) place

the cardboard, paper towel and broken bulb into a plastic

bag. Sweeping and vacuuming are not recommended

for cleanup

on hard surfaces.

Choosing the right brightness

Light output is measured in lumens. Use this simple chart to compare the brightness of an incandescent buIb with that of a CFL. Buy a CFL with a tight
output (LumenJ number equivatent to, or better yet,
stightLy higher than that of the incandescent bulb
you're reptacing. CFLs can dim over time, so choos-

ing a higher light output number is a good idea.

Atso, because CFLs don't generate heat as incandescents do, you can use buLbs with higher tight
output without the danger of overheating.

lncandescent

lwatts]
40
60
75
00
150
1

Where

notto

CFLs

lwatts)

9_13
13 _ 15
18 _ 25
23 _ 30
30 _ 52

use a CFL

There are severaI ptaces where you shoutdn't use a

CFL Lightbutb:
I Areas that are subject to vibration, such as under

stairs and the garage.

I Fixtures that are subject to extreme heat, co[d or
humidity. Buy "weatherproof" bulbs for fixtures
that are exposed to the elements.
tr Fixtures that are turned on and off frequently.
For anything other than a standard [ight fixture,
such as a f ixture with a dimmer switch, a three-way
[amp switch, a remote, a photo or motion sensor or
an eLectronic or digitaLtimer, read the packaging to
be sure the bul.b is suitabte. Atso read the packaging if you want to use a CFL outdoors or in an
enc[osed fixtu re.

Light
{tumensl
450
800
1,100
1,600
2,600

Minimum
Output

Choosing the right color

CFL Lightbutbs described as warm" or "soft" give
off Light that is comparabLe to thai of an incandes-

cent butb and are weL[ suited for residentiaI use.

CFLs described as "coo[," "bright white," "natura["

or "daylight" have a btuish-white tight, which some

peopte prefer for reading and other detaiI work.

Warm white

light

Bluish-white [ight

SPECIAL SECTI0N: ENERGY-SAVING PROJECTS 103

On soft surfaces like carpeting, put on

Choosing the right bulb

gloves and pick up as many pieces as you

can by hand or with the help of sticky

tape and put everlthing into a plastic bag.

If you

Refer to the chart betow to help you select the best CFLs for your fixtures.

fit into atl' screw-in fixtures, but consider looks as weLl. as tight.
Twist-style butbs tight faster, but more traditionaL-l.ooking A-[ines and
CFLs

to vacuum, remove the bag

and place it in a plastic bag or wipe out
have

gtobes are a better choice when the bu[b wiLL be visibLe.

the canister ifthe vacuum is bagless.

Proper disposal

forthe fixture

of spent CFLs

depends on where you live. Some com-

munities allow disposal with the normal

Ifthis isn't the case where you live,

trash.

!r:1* rtf

visit earth9ll.org to find recycling

centers near you by entering "CFL'and
your zip code. Some retail stores, like

r&

IKEA and some Ace Hardware stores, collect spent CFLs for recycling. And a number of national organizations,
such as the U.S. Recycling Hot-

line at (800) 253-2687 and the

EPA at epa.gov/bulbrecycling or

earth91l.org, can help you

identiff local rerycling options.

Home Depot now

:*
Flood

Spiral,/Twist

A-line

CeiLing fans

Recessed cans

WaL[ sconces

Track Iighting

Table/floor [amps
Open ceiling

Tabte/ftoor [amps
Pendant fixtures
Ceiling fans

visit energystar.gov and click on

the "Choose a Light Guide" in the CFL tighting
section for an interactive way to determine
which CFL is best for a given type of fixture.

You can atso

Jl

For additional detailed

energystar.go\'.

Cover leaky windows

U

Leaky windows are one of the biggest sources of energy loss

in a t)'pical home. If your windows leak all winter long,

.ou.r,h.-

with plastic film. A $13 kit covers five 3 x 5-ft.

windows. The plastic also reduces window condensation and can be used with curtains or blinds. The
film is available for the exterior and interior.
Apply double-sided tape (included) to the
window casing. Cut the film roughly to size

with scissors,leaving a few extra inches

each side. Starting at a

top corner, apply

on -:'t= ;.t!fi

the

filmfirmlytothetapearoundallfoursidesof '

.,

4 '-. tl !li
the window. Use a hair dryer to remove the
.
wrinkles. When winter is over, take down the u+ I ;.+:,
tape
the finish.

plastic and pull the tape off the casing. The

removes easily without damaging

1ol

fi xtu res
Ceiting fans
WatL sconces

accepts

information on CFLs and many

other energy-saving topics, visit

1}

tfr!

Candetabra

spent CFLs.

An Fl

spEctAL sECTtoN: ENERGy-sAVtNG pROJEcrs

*;t

Post

Globe

Ceiting fans
WatL sconces

Pendant fixtures
CeiLing fans

Textured watts in one day

Cast a concrete fountain

Tite your backsplash

{
J

Bathroom cabinet
Custom closet organizer

andcrafted plaster walls have a classic beauty that

perfectly flat drywall can never achieve. Picture the
walls in an old Italian villa or a 1920s American bungalow with wide, ornate trim. Now you can easily create the look
yourself using one of several products that are texture and color
all in one.
The three-step product shown here is called Manda Mudd.

It

in three standard l-gal. paint cans (enough for an average

350 sq. ft. of wall space). Most rooms can be completed in less
comes

a day. Cleanup is easywith soap and water. So ifyou consider

yourself an average do-it-yourselfer in the painting zone, you'll
be able to tackle this forgiving process by following the step-bystep photos.

than

106

PRoJEcrs groo

ro glso

Many other color/texture techniques require you to choose

your own color combinations and glazes, leaving the end result to
chance. Manda Mudd removes the guesswork by creating the
color combinations for you. Each of the 42 color sets available
consists of three complementary colors. The first coat is the base
color and the next two applications add texture as well as color to
the wall, resulting in a rich three-dimensional effect. In fact you
can use this product over existing wall texture or hard-to-remove
wallpaper (see "Problem Walls," p. 109).
Go to the Buyer's Guide on p. 109 for information on where to find

this product and get color samples. Figure on spending about $140
for the three-step product and another $35 for the application kit.
You can save money by forgoing the (optional) application kit

slEp'z'K'l"rI
r q
*'"|:ir'

{
I
and using a plastic dustpan and a grout float (a tool used to spread
tile grout). You'll also need L-ll2-in. masking tape and self-adhesive masking paper to cover the baseboard and the tops of doors
and windows.

Prep yourwalls and practice

Begin the project by filling any nail holes and repairing damaged

drlwall or plaster. If the room

has been occupied by smokers

paper that's tough to remove,

see

p. 109.

As with any other new process, you should practice on a scrap

before starting. Buy a damaged sheet of drywall at a home center,

cut it 2 to 3 ft. wide and prime it. Then experiment with the
It'll get you familiar with drying times and how best to
use the application tool. This way when you get to your wall,
you'll have a good feel for the technique and your results will be
process.

more consistent.

or is

kitchen with a grease fiim, you'll need to wash the walls with a
with a damp cloth to get
the paint to bond weli. Spot-prime any newly patched surfaces
and then mask the woodwork (Photo l). If your room has walla

TSP cleaner and then wipe them down

masl the woodwork and the ceiling and remove the etectricat
cover plates. Repair walls and spot-prime as needed.

Step

1:

Paint the room

The idea behind this step is to create a base color that completely
covers the walls. It will show through only as background for the

other two steps. First, cut in the corners and then roll the base
onto the wall, as you would with regular paint. The consistency is
TEXTURED wALLS tN oNE

DAy

1O7

just like that of paint. You'Il get excellent

coverage with one coat even if you use a
dark color over a light one, as shown here.
When you're finished, let this coat dry.
This room was ready for the next step in
about an hour.

walls

The product for this texture step is the

consistency of runny drywall joint compound, or very thick gravy. There are as
many ways to apply the texture as there

mud onto the floor or the

wa[[ beneath, so have
rags ready to swab the
wat[ or clean up the dropctoth. You don't want to
step into the mud and
track it onto carpeting.

float 45 or more degrees every other dip.

Try both methods on your sample board
and see which you like best.
Don't get bogged down in one area;
keep the motion going and refill your pan
as necessary.

Step 2: Trowelthe mud

tip t"r'* bound to drip some

in this room have if you turn your

After you've completed an

of a coffee table, step

area about the size

back and examine the wall.You may need

time; there's another Iayer of texture to

to go back and add strokes to certain

come. You can always go back and apply

spots to get a more "even" look. Remem-

more. As it dries, you can start to

ber, don't apply too much texture at this

the room will look.

see

how

are people who try it, so don't worry

about doing it "right." The idea is to cover
a bit less than half of the visible surface
with random strokes of mud.
Pour a little into your pan. Get your
float ready with your other hand and start
applying. Work from the ceiling down,
completing one wall at a time. If you're
uncomfortable on a stepladder, consider
setting up a wide plank on top of sturdy
crates to reach the top of an 8-ft. wall. Dip
about half the float (lengthwise) into the
pan, wipe off a bit of the excess and then

lightly push the float onto the wall with

the float pointing upward, as shown in
Photo 4. Keep the float nearly flat against
the wall and drag it across, pulling the
mud mixture as you go. Repeat this about
every 4 to 5 in. along the wall. If you
repeat this process over the entire wall
holding the float in this upward fashion,

you'll produce an even, consistent

pattern. You can also achieve a more
random, hand-troweled look like the

]
rt

Complete a 2 x 4-ft. sample to

practice your ski[[s. Apply the base
coat (Step 1) to the corners and along
the ceiling, baseboard, and window and
door trim using a 2-1/2-in. brush.

eou, about 12 ozs. of Step 2 texture mixture into the application tray. Dip
edge of the float into the tray, then putt the float across the walt to
appty a thin layer over the base coat. Dip the float often with small amounts of
product. Don't completely obscure the wall cotor behind; just create a thin
buitdup of material over the entire wall surface.

ttr.

108

PRoJEcrs

$1 oo

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$1 5o

!
J

Immediatel,y fottow the brushwork

with a 3/8-in. nap rolter on smooth
walls or a t/2-in. roller on textured
watls. Let the walls dry.

J
6

tight
trim. Move the trowel
edge at a different angte to produce a more

f
J

mimic the overall texture even in

areas and along

random texture.

the finat product from the Step 3 can in the same

manner as Step 2, letting the two previous applications
show beneath. The slightly different shade from the previous
product will give the wa[[ a deeper, three-dimensional appearance.

6
tl,

OOO,y

Step 3: More mud

]f

it

Gentty slice through the texture surface to release the

masking paper and tape from the textured surface after
dries.

that the trim, windows and doors aren't there, and have the

By the time you've finished the last wall with the first texture
application, the starting point will be dry and you can open the

texture flow across the wall.

Iast can and get started. You'll notice that this mix is about the
same consistency as the previous one. Dip your float into the pan

tain a random uniformity.

and repeat the previous method. Try to cover some of the background color from Step I that you didn't cover earlier, but also

Finishing touches

overlap onto the Step 2 texture

BuYer's

as

well. Vary the starting points

the strokes at the

corners and along
and base

Guide

ro find Manda Mudd, 9o

to

:TltT
trim to

at
find
Manda
more

MANDAMUDD.com. you cln Loot<

co[or samp[es, order on[ine and
retaiters in your area. 0r catl
Mudd at '8771 626-3268 for

retail

information.

of

avoid

making a similar
pattern along the

length of the

trim'

Try to imagine

Step back occasionally to see "the big picture" and try to main-

Once you've completed the project, take a break for an hour and
then go back and examine it. You can still apply more mud to
areas you missed

or those that look too plain.

If your newly completed room is in a heavy traffic area such as
a bathroom or hallway, you can protect the texture with a clear
water-based satin finish once the wall is dry. Just cut in the corners
and along the trim with a brush and use a Il2-in.-nap roller to
cover large areas. You can also use a product called Tile Lab Grout
Sealer, which is available at home centers. Keep in mind that clear
finishes can darken the color slightly.

Fr*h{*rw wr*iis
lf you've tried to remove stubborn wallpaper and the resu[t was a
lot of torn edges, this cotor/texture finish is a great way to cover
them. Because wa[lpaper paste can tift when water-based latex
paint is apptied, you't[ need to seaI the entire waLL with an oil.based primer/seaLer [ike Cover Stain by Zinsser, which is avaiLabLe at home centers for $15 per gaL[on. But first
remove any rough waltpaper edges with a
scraper and then sand LightLy to feather
the edges. lf there are air bubbles in the
waLtpaper, cut them with a utiLity knife

and scrape the surface with a putty

knife. Wipe the waIL clean with a lightLy
dampened cloth,

Let

ORGANIC
RESPIRATOR

ad

rv

the watL dry and then

prime the entire surface with the primer.

Use an organic respirator, which is available
at home centers, hardware and paint stores. Once
the primer is dry, you can start with the Step 1 product.
lf your watls have an old texture that's been compromised by
smoother-tooking spot repairs, you can go right over the otd and
create a new texture using Manda Mudd.

Z."i<6r^

*+,i i#

TEXTURED WALLS IN ONE

DAY

109

Cast a

concrete
fountain
you want to add the sight and sound of moving water to
your yard without the heavy work and frequent maintenance of a pond or waterfall, consider a fountain. Unlike
a pond or waterfall, a freestanding fountain doesn't require hard
labor and there's very little maintenance to do later. Best of all,
you can place a fountain just about anywhere: among plants,

inside a sun porch, or on a deck or patio. You could even build a

pair to flank a gateway or path.
The following pages show you how to cast a fountain using
inexpensive materials that are readily available at home centers.
This design combines the style of top-selling models found at gar-

den centers with super-simple construction techniques. If you

can handle basic tools like a circular saw and drill, you can build
it, even if you've never worked with concrete before. Expect to
spend about six hours assembling forms and pouring concrete,

plus another couple of hours removing forms and setting up the

fountain. The materials for this fountain cost about $120. Fountains of a similar size and style (usually made from fiberglass or
plastic) cost about $500 at garden centers.

Build forms from foam

into a form. You can
build forms from wood, but rigid foam insulation is perfect for a
small project like this. Foam is lightweight, smooth and easy to
cut. Concrete won't stick to foam, so you can reuse the outer form
parts to cast several fountains. Best of all, you can assemble sections of foam with the ultimate quick-and-simple fastening system: duct tape! Be sure to use "extruded" polystyrene, not
"expanded" polystyrene bead board. A 4 x 8-ft. sheet of 2-in.thick foam costs about $20 at home centers. Inspect the sheet
before you buy, and handle it carefully-deep scratches or dents
will show up as bumps on the surface of your fountain.
To mold concrete, you pour wet concrete mix

CONCRETE

Mtx

Combine basic

materials and
clever techniques
to create a

fountain in one
weekend.

Figures B and C show the dimensions of the column and basin

form parts. Cut the tapered parts (A and C) with a circular saw
using a standard wood-cutting saw blade (Photo l). It's difficult
to make perfectly straight cuts with a circular saw because the
blade can easily wander in the soft foam. But don't worry about
slightly wary cuts; they won't affect the final product. Cut the
square and rectangular parts with a table saw or circular saw. Cut
the 8-in. round disc (D) with a drywall saw. Wrap the disc with
duct tape to cover the rough edges left by the drywall saw (available at home centers for $7).

110

PRoJEcrs $1oo

ro

$150

FLOWERPOT

EXTRUDED
FOAM
INSULATION

Figure A
Cast consrete fsuntain

Assemble the forms with duct tape

To begin, cut out the foam parts and assemble them. Keep in
mind that you'll build the column and base forms and pour them
in the upside-down position. Also, be sure to place the printed

ofthe foam face out; the ink can stain the concrete.
Tape the seams of the outer column form together and then
wrap it with tape. Stretch the tape firmly as you wrap to create
side

tight seams. Assemble the inner form with tape and 3-in. screws
(Photo 2). Tape the basin form sides (G) to the base (H). Screw
one basin block (F) to the base, then screw the second block onto
the first. Mark a 4 x 4-in. square on the block to represent the

opening at the bottom of the column. Then cut two slits in the
foam and insert anchors made from l0-gauge copper electrical
wire (Photo 3). Leave the legs of each anchor protruding 3/4 in.
from the foam. You'll use these anchors later to tie the column and
basin together (see Photo 8 inset). Be sure to use plastic-coated wire.

Copper that's in direct contact with concrete eventually corrodes.

Form the sphere with a plastic ball

To form the sphere, you'll need a toy ball, a plastic flowerpot and a

joint compound (which is meant

for covering drywall joints). Buy a cheap ball (g3) made from

bag of 20-minute setting-t)?e

smooth, thin plastic and make sure it's fully inflated. Don't use
thick-skinned ball like a soccer ball or basketball.

Cover the holes in the flowerpot with duct tape. Mix the joint
compound powder with water until it's the consistency of
pancake batter. It's OK if the mix is a bit lumpy. Then pour 3 in.

of compound into the pot and set the ball into it wirh the air plug

facing straight up. Hold a 3-in. cardboard ring (left over

from duct tape) on the ball as you cover the ball with at least I in.
of joint compound (Photo 4). Work fast-the joint compound
will start to stiffen after about 10 minutes. You may have to hold
the ring in place for a minute or two to prevent the ball from
floating up.
Let the compound harden overnight. Then puncture the ball
with a utility knife and pull it out through the ring. Rub margarine onto

crete won't stick to it. If your hand

fit through the ring, recruit a

helper with smaller hands.

Fill the forms with

concrete

Since the concrete isn't reinforced

with wire mesh or rebar, concrete mix
that contains tiny threads of fiberglass

is best for this project (Quikrete

Crack-Resistant concrete is one brand).
This project used one l0-oz. bottle of
Quikrete Cement Color per 80-lb. bag
of concrete to pigment the mix. Home

centers typically carry three or four

colors (this project used "buff").

sphere, a hollow column and a basin. A pump drives

water up through the sphere, where it bubbles out,
cascades down the column and returns to the basin.
Overall height: 42 in.
Basin footprint: 20 x 20 in.

small rag and coat the inside ofthe form so the con-

won't

The fountain consists of three separate parts: a

Materials list
I

One 4 x 8-ft. sheet of 2-in. extruded

polystyrene foam insulation

Four* 80-Lb. bags of concrete mix

[or five 60-tb. bagsl

Four* 1 0-oz. bottLes of Quikrete

Cement CoLor or equivalent

I
)
I

Duct tape, 3-in. screws, 20-minute settingtype joint compound (1 bag), 12-in. ftowerpot, 3-in. ABS toiLet ftange, hot gtue, 9- or
1 0-in.-diameter batL, 1/2-in. gaLvanized
hardware cLoth, river pebbles.

Pump: Setect a pump that del.ivers at

Least 300 gallons per hour and inctudes
adjustab[e ftow controt. Pumps are
avai[able at home and garden centers.
To find ontine sources for the pump used
here, type "Beckett M350AUt' into any
on[ine search engine.

ft. of 1/2-in. PVC pipe

2fI. of pump tubing

2

ft. of 1 0-gauge insulated copper wire

*Three 80-lb. bags

of concrete fitled these
vary slightly, buy

four

bags ond

forns, but

just barely. Since the lmount of concrete in a bag can

four bottles of cotoront.

CAST A cONcRETE FOUNTAIN 111

mark out the form Darts and cut them with a circular saw.
Support the foam with 2x4s. Assemble the column form
parts with duct tape.

Srr"* the disc (D) to the inner form, then screw the disc to
the end cap (E). Slip the inner form into the column form
and tape it in ptace.

fape the basin form together and

screw in the two inner blocks
(F). Mark a 4-in. square in the . ///'
center and insert wire anchors )'-1/4 in. inside the square.

L
C*

'lI

Q
J

,/
.<\\\-t1t2"

Fill the sphere form first,

before the mix begins

to

\
3" ----l\

stiffen. Shake the form to drive

out large air pockets. Then insert a
24-in.-long piece of l/2-in. PVC pipe
(see Figure

-wllE-

A and Photo 7). Cover the end

of the pipe with tape to keep out the

concrete. Center the pipe and hold a level against it to make sure
it's standing straight up.

112

PRoJEcrs $r oo

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$1 so

)
E

Create a sphere form by

couering a ball with joint
compound while holding a tape
ring on top. When the compound hardens, puncture the ba[[ and
pull it out. Let the compound cure overnight before you fitt it
with concrete.

Fill the column form by dropping in scoops of concrete on all

four sides. If you fill only from one side, you'll bend the inner
form. When you've dropped in about 6 in. of concrete, tamp it
with a 1x2 to fill in large voids. Tamp for about 10 seconds; more
tamping will give the concrete a smoother surface, while less

Figure B
Cslumn fsrr*

f,
J

rilt the cotumn

form with con-

crete. When it's

nearly fu[[, insert

the access-hole
block (B) and wire

ACCESS HOLE
BLOCK,

(4" x 4")

anchors. Then finish

filling the form.

-?
o

INNER FORM
SIDE

3" SCREW

Dtsc
(8" DtA.)

6 #JHr.'"

"screed" off the

excess concrete

with a 2x4. Let

the concrete cure

Note: The column and basin are

formed and cast upside down.

for a week before

you remove any
of the forms.

tamping will leave more craters and crevices. Whatever surface

texture you want, be consistent with your tamping all the way up
for a uniform appearance. Continue to fill and tamp in 6-in.

Cover the column and basin with plastic garbage bags to slow
down evaporation. To remove the sphere form, just break it away
(Photo 7). To remove the outer forms of the column and basin,

increments until the concrete is 4 in. from the top of the form.
Then add the block that creates the access hole and the wire

simply slice the tape with a utility knife. To remove the blocks (F)
inside the basin, cut the foam into sections with a drywall saw and
break them out. Removing the column's inner form is a slower
process; cut the foam with a drlnvall saw and pry out small chunks

anchors (Photo 5).

When you

fill the basin form (Photo 6), tamp the concrete the
to dislodge the wire anchors you

same way and be careful not

installed earlier. Slide a 2x4back and forth as you drag it across

the form to screed off the excess concrete.

Wait, then remove the forms

Let the concrete "wet cure" for at least a week before you remove
the forms. The longer concrete stays damp, the stronger it gets.

with a puttyknife, and then cut some more.

Put it alltogether
Before you assemble the fountain, mount a 3-in. black plastic
toilet flange in the recess at the top of the column (see Figure A
and Photo 8). The flange supports the sphere and stands about
1/4 in. above the top of the column. This allows water to

fill the

cASr A coNcRETE FoUNTAIN 113

Keep an eye on the water level whenever you run the pump.

If

the basin

runs dry, the pump wiII burn out.

(O ri. ttr"

column to the base

ioining the anchors
with wire. Feed the tube into

C)

7
f

Cut a*ay the ptastic pot with a utility knife. Saw deep kerfs
tn ttre sphere form and break it open by prying with a stiff
putty knife.
recess and

uy

the cotumn and set the sphere

in place. Pu[[ the tube through
the access hole and connect the
pump. Cover the reservoir with
hardware ctoth and pebbles.

spill out over the sides ofthe column. Cover the screw holes and bolt slots

in the flange with duct tape, then set it in place. Apply lots

ofhot

glue over the flange

and around it to lock the flange in place and plug all the holes watertight (the tape
prevents the glue from dripping through holes).

The column and basin weigh about 100 lbs. each, so you'll need a helper or

mover's dolly to move them. Tie the anchors together with the same wire you used

for the anchors (Photo 8 inset). Then nudge the column to make sure you twisted
the wires tightly enough. It's OK if the column rocks slightly, but it must be
absolutely tip-proofsince the fountain will attract curious kids.
Connect a 2-ft. section offlexible tubing to the sphere's PVC pipe. The vinyl tubing made to fit the pump slipped tightly inside the PVC pipe. If your tubing doesn't
fit tightly, use hose clamps or other fittings. Set the ball in piace (Photo 8) and posi-

tion the pump. Trim the tubing to length and connect it to the pump. Fill the recess
at the top of the column with smooth black"river pebbles." In the basin, support the
pebbles with four "cribs" from 1/2-in. wire mesh (called "hardware cloth"). Cut the
mesh into 9-ll2'in.x 12-in. sections, then bend them over a 2x4 block to form cribs
3 in. tall, 3-112 in. wide and 12 in. long. Cover the cribs with pebbles. This leaves all
the space below the cribs open for water storage. If you simply fill the basin with
pebbles, you'lI greatly reduce the water-holding capacity.

Fill the basin with water and start the pump (the outlet that powers the pump
mustbe GFCI protected). Turn the flow-control knob on the pump to adjust the
water flow. If the water spills down one side of the column but not the others, slip a
flat pry bar under that side of the basin. Raise the basin and place shims under it
until water flows evenly down all four sides of the column.
The fountain loses water because of splashing and evaporation, so keep an eye
on the water level whenever you run the pump. If the basin runs dry, the pump will
burn out. On a very hot, windy day, you may need to add water after just a few
hours. In

cold climate, freezing water could crack the basin and destroy the pump.

Each winter, remove the pump, empty the basin and either move the fountain

indoors or cover it with

111

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$1 oo

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plastic bag.
$1 so

othing packs more style per square inch than mosaic

tile. So if your kitchen's got the blahs, give it a quick

on a paint deglosser with a lint-free cloth or abrasive pad so the

mastic will adhere. Deglosser is available at paint centers and

infusion of excitement with

home centers for $8 for

small tiles are mounted on 12

tile backsplash. Because the

x l2-in.

sheets, installation is fast.

You can install the tile on Saturday and then grout

it on Sunday.
Professionals charge about $20 per sq. ft. for installing the tile
(plus materials), so you'll save $20 for every sheet you install your-

self. The sheets cost $8 to more than $20 each at home centers and
tile stores.

qt.

Then mask off the countertops and any upper cabinets that
will have tile installed along the side. Leave a ll4-in.gap between
the wall and the tape for the tile (Photo 1). Cover the countertops

with newspaper or a drop cloth.

The total cost for a backsplash ranges from about $100 to

Tirrn off power to the outlets in the wall and remove the cover
plates. Make sure the power is off with a noncontact voltage
detector ($15 at home centers). Place outlet extenders ($1.80 at

$200, depending on the tiles you use. The sheets shown here cost
$10 apiece.

home centers) in the outlet boxes. The National Electrical Code

requires extenders when the boxes are more than l/4 in. behind

The following pages show you how to install the tile sheets.
You'll need basic tile tools, available at home centers and tile
stores, including a 3/16-in. trowel (99) and a grout float (g5).
You'll also need mastic adhesive ($l l for I gallon), grout (g20 for
the l7-lb. bag of premium grout shown here) and grout sealer
($10 for I qt.). You can rent a wet saw to cut the tiles ($40 for four

the wall surface. It's easier to put in extenders now and cut tile to
fit around them than to add them later ifthe tile opening isn't big

hours, or $55 for the day).

Preparethe walls
Before installing the tile, clean up any grease splatters on the wall
(mastic won't adhere to grease). Wipe the stains with a sponge

dipped in a mixture of water and mild dishwashing liquid (like

Dawn). If you have a lot of stains and they won't come off, wipe

enough. Set the extenders in place as a guide for placing the tile.
You'll remove them later for grouting.
On the wall that backs your range, measure down from the top

of the countertop backsplash a distance that's equal to three or

four full rows of tile (to avoid cutting the tile) and make a mark.
Screw a scrap piece of wood (the ledger board) to the wall at the
mark between the cabinets.
The area between the range and the vent hood is usually the
largest space on the wall-and certainly the most seen by the
cooks in the house-so it'll serve as your starting point for
installing the tile. Make a centerline on the wall halfi,vay between
cAST A C0NcRETE F0UNTAIN: TILE Y0UR BAcKSpLASH 115

the cabinets and under the vent hood (Photo 1). Measure from
the centerline to the cabinets. If you'll have to cut tile to fit, move
the centerline slightly so you'll only have to cut the mesh backing
(at least on one side).

lnstall and sealthe tile

Using

and put

3/i6-in. trowel, scoop some mastic adhesive out of the tub

it on the wall (no technique involved here!). Spread the

mastic along the centerline, cutting in along the ledger board, vent

hood and upper cabinets (Photo 2). Then use broad strokes to fill
in the middle. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to the wall to
spread the mastic

thin-you

should be able to

see

where the points of the trowel touch the wall. Have

the layout lines

a

water bucket

and sponge on hand to keep the trowel clean. Whenever the mas-

tic starts to harden on the trowel, wipe it off with the wet sponge.
Place plastic tile spacers on the ledger board and countertop
(Photo 3). This leaves a gap so the tiles don't sit directly on the
countertop (you'11 caulk the gap later).
Align the first tile sheet with the centerline, directly over
the spacers. Press it onto the wall with your hand. If the sheet
slides around and mastic comes through the

mart a centerline between the upper cabinets so the tites

witt be centered under the vent hood. Screw a ledger to the
wa[[ to support the tile after you pull out the stove.

'lI

joint lines, you're

applying the mastic too thick (remove the sheet, scrape off some
mastic and retrowei). Scrape out any mastic in the joints with a
utiliry knife.
Eyeball a 1/16-in. joint between sheets oftile (you don't need
spacers). After every two or three installed sheets, tap them into
the mastic with aboard and rubber mallet (Photo 3).
If tiles fall offthe sheets, dab a little mastic on the back and stick
them right back in place. The sheets aren't perfectly square, so you
may need to move individual tiles to keep joints lined up. Move the
tiles with your fingers or by sticking a utility knife blade in the

and turning the blade.

If

joint

an entire sheet is crooked, place a grout

float (shown in Photo 5) over the tile and move the sheet. Youll
it.
Ifyou're lucky, you can fit the tile sheets under upper cabinets
and around outlets by cutting the mesh backing with a utility
knife. If not, you'Il have to cut the tile with a wet saw. Nippers and
grinders cause slate tiles (shown here) to shatter or crumble,

have about 20 minutes after installing the tile to fine-tune

although you can use these tools on ceramic tile.

Slice the backing to the nearest full row of tile, install the sheet
around the outlet or next to the cabinet, then cut tiles with a wet
saw to fill the gaps (Photo 4). Cut the tiles while they're attached
to the sheet. Individuai tiles are too small to cut (the blade can
send them flying!).

Let the tile sit for at least 30 minutes, then apply a grout sealer

if you're using natural stone (like slate) or unglazed quarry tile.

The sealer keeps the grout from sticking to the tile (it's not needed

for nonporous tiles such as ceramic). Pour the sealer on a sponge,

then wipe on just enough to dampen the tiles.

Grout and clean the tile

C
4

thin layer of mastic adhesive on the wal[, starting

at the centerline. Spread just enough adhesive for two or
three sheets at a time so the adhesive doesn't dry before you
set the tile.
Spreaa a

115

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sloo To

$150

Walt 24 hours after installing the tile to add the grout. Pros
use a premium grout that has a consistent color and resists
stains better than standard grout. Since the backsplash will
be subject to splatters and stains from cooking and food prep,
spend the extra money for a premium grout. You can find or
special order it at home centers or tile stores. One brand is Prism

?
rJ

t"O the tile into the mastic with a wood scrap and a rubber
mallet. Stand back, look at the tiles and straighten any

Cut

tile

then

crooked ones.

filt

sheets to the nearest

full

row to

fit

around outlets,

the gaps with tites cut on a wet saw.

lxffil,

t
'i lt i q
l$,1

0
f,
J

force grout into the joints with a float. Scrape off excess
grout by moving the float diagonally across the tile.

f,, nrl. the grout out of the joints at inside corners and along
\f the bottom with a utility knife so you can fitt them with
cautk. Keep the dull side of the blade atong the countertop.

(custombuildingproducts.com; 800-272-8786). Sanded grout

will also work and will save you a few bucks.
Mix the grout with water until it reaches mashed-potato consistency, then put some on the tile with a grout float. Work the
grout into the joints by moving the float diagonally over the tiles
(Photo 5). Hold the grout float at a 45-degree angle to the tile.
Scrape offexcess grout with the float after thejoints are filled.
Ten minutes after grouting, wipe the grout off the surface of
the tiles with a damp sponge. If the grout pulls out of the joints,

wait another l0 minutes for it to harden. Continually rinse the

sponge in a bucket of water and wipe the tiles until they're clean.
These slate tiles have a lot of crevices that retain grout. While
most of the grout comes off the tiles with the wet sponge, some
won't. Most pro installers leave some grout in slate and other

rough-surface tile-it's just part of the deal with some types of

natural stone. But if you want the tile completely clean, remove
the grout from individual tiles with a toothbrush.
After cleaning the tile, use a utility knife to rake the grout out
of the joints along the bottom of the backsplash and in the inside
corners (Photo 6). These expansion joints allow the wall to move

without cracking the grout.

Two hours after grouting, wipe the haze off the tiles with
microfiber cloths. Then caulk the expansion joints with latex
caulk. Use a colored caulk that closely matches the grout.

After seven days, sponge on a grout sealer to protect the grout

against stains.

That's

itl Now every time your family

and friends gather in

your kitchen, they'll be impressed with your custom backsplash.

TrLE YouR

BAcKSpLASH 117

ii:. !ri:i

Ji:i

rc

e*;
many bathrooms, a picture or a small shelf hangs
above the toilet. But you can make better use of that

necessary.

#"

Bifold closet doors are sold as a pair,

usually joined by hinges. Each of these doors measured

building an attractive cabinet that offers

much storage as a typical medicine cabinet.
The following pages will show you how to build it. The simple
joinery and store-bought doors make this a great project for the

l1-15/16 in. wide, and theywere cut to length.

The easy-to-install hinges are available online (see the Materials list on p. I l9). All the other tools and materials, including the

woodworking novice. Assembling the crown and base is a bit

tricky, but the how-to photos will show you how to do that.
The total materials bill for this cabinet was $140. You'll need a
miter saw to cut the trim. A table saw and a brad nailer will save
time, but you can make all the cuts with a circular saw and drive

exact crown and base moldings used here, but most home centers

space by

about three times

the nails by hand

as

ifyou prefer.

The height and width of your cabinet may differ slightly from

bifold doors available at

your home center. So choose your doors first and then alter the
lengths of the sides and the top, bottom and middle shelves if
these measurements, depending on the

118

PRoJEcrs $roo

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$1so

cabinet doors, are available at home centers. You may not find the

carry a similar profile. Any 2-ll4-in. crown molding is appropriate for this project. "Base cap" molding was used for the base. For
a more contemporary look, you could skip the crown and base
altogether, since they're purely decorative.

Build a basic box

Cut the plywood parts to size. The dimensions are given in the
Cutting list (p. 119). To make the short end cuts, use the homemade guide shown in Photo 3 and described on p. I 19- 120.

Assemble the cabinet box

with glue and

screws,

followed by wood dowels for extra strength (photo 1).

You can buy long dowels and cut them into short
pieces, but dowels precut and fluted for woodworking
are easier to work with. This assembly method is
quick and easy and gives strong results. But because
the method requires lots of wood filler to hide the fasteners, it's for painted work only. If you want to use
stain and a clear finish, biscuits or pocket screws are a
better choice.

Drill l/8-in. pilot and countersink

holes for the screws using a drill bit that
does both at once ($6). Attach the top, bottom and cleats to one side, then add the
other side. Mark the middle shelf position
on the sides, slip it into place and screw it
(there's no need for glue).
Before you drill the dowel holes, make
sure the box is square by taking diagonal

measurements; equal measurements

means the box is square. Ifnecessary, screw

a strip of plywood diagonally across the

back ofthe box to hold it square. For clean,

splinter-free holes, drill the dowel holes

with a 3/8-in. brad-point bit (95; below),

making the holes l/8 in. deeper than the
length of the dowels. That way, you can

sink the dowels below the surface of the

plywood and fill the holes with wood filler.
With the box completed, drill holes for the adjustable
shelfsupports (Photo 2) using a brad-point drill bit.
Most shelf supports require a l/4-in. hole.

Cut and hang the doors

Cut the doors using a saw guide (Photo 3). To make a
guide, screw a straight 1x3 to a 14 x l8-in. scrap of

Materials list
ITEM

QTY.

1-15/16"-wide bifol.d ctoset doors

4' xI' x3/4" birch pLywood

2-1 / 4" -wide crown mo[ding

3/4"-tatt base cap mol.ding

1-1/lr" screws
1 -5l8" screws
3/8" dowets
1-112" finish nail.s

Hingesr
Shelf supports
Spray primer
Spray paint

3/4-in. plywood. Then run your saw along the lx3 to

cut off the excess plywood and create a guide that

pair
1

5'

Cutting list

5'
1 box
1 box

16

QTY.

2
3

1 box

SIZE & DESCRIPTION

B" x 32-5lB" sides
8" x22-1/2" top, bottom

and middte shetf

2
2
2
2
3

1+

1 can

2 cans

Wood gtue
Wood

KEY

fitler

3" x22-1/2" top and bottom cleats

8" x22-1/4" adjustabte shetves
11-15/16" x 32-318" doors
9" x 24" crown and base frames
2-1/4" -wide crown mol.ding
lcut to fit)
3/1+"-tatt base mo[ding {cut to fit}

*To

order hinges, coll (S0O) 383-0130 or go to wwhotdware.con.

This project used No. A03180T8 G9 PK. For other styles and
finishes, do a search for "A03180."

BRAD.
POINT BIT

Except

for moldings,

alL

parts are

j/4-in.

BATHROOM

plywood.

cABINET 119

The fronts and backs of louvered doors look similar, so check

twice before you drill. Stand the doors against the cabinet, setting
them on spacers to create a l/8-in. gap at the bottom. The gap

cabinet box, crown, base and doors with 120-grit sandpaper.

Spray all the parts with a white stain-blocking primer (such as
BIN, Cover Stain or KILZ). When the primer dries, sand it lightly
with a fine sanding sponge. Finally, spray on at least two coats of
spray paint. High-gloss paint will accentuate even tiny surface
flaws, so consider using satin or matte.
To hang the cabinet, locate studs and drive two 3-in. screws

between the doors should also be about

l/8 in. Clamp each door

into position and screw the hinges into place (Photo 5). If the
doors don't align perfectly because the box is slightly out of

through the top.cleat. Then rehang the doors. Close the doors
to check their fit. Nudge the bottom of the cabinet left or
right to square it and align the doors. Then drive screws

square, don't worry; you can square the box when you har-rg it.

through the bottom cleat.

steers

your saw perfectly straight and indicates the exact path of

the cut. Simply mark the doors, align the guide with the marks,
ciamp it in place and cut.
Screw the hinges to the doors 3 in. from the ends (Photo 4).

The hinges also adjust up or down l/16 in.

Add the crown and base

Measure the top of the cabinet (including the doors) and cut the

plywood crown and base frames to that size. Set your miter saw to
45 degrees and cut the crown molding with it upside down and
leaning against the fence (Photo 6). Also miter a "tester" section of
molding to help you position the sidepieces when you nail them
into place. To avoid splitting, predrill nail holes. With the sides

in place, add the front piece of crown molding. Cut it slightly

long and then "shave" one end with your miter saw until it fits
perfectly. Add the molding to the base frame the same way. Screw

both the crown and the base to the cabinet (Photo 8).

A guick finish
Brushing paint onto louvered doors is slow, fussy work, but you
can avoid that hassle by using spray primer and paint. First,
remove the doors and hinges. Cover the dowels, nails and screw
heads with wood filler and sand the filler smooth.
Also fill any voids in the plpvood's edges. Sand the

Assemble the cabinet box with gtue and screws. Then add
glued dowels for rock-solid joints. Drill splinter-free dowel
"$*
holes with a brad-point bit.

L
[i
ir..

Buil.ding cabinet doors is a tricky, time-consuming job. But you can avoid aL[ that fussy
work by buying ctoset doors and cutting them
to fit the cabinet.

$
f*

oritt shetf support holes using a scrap of pegboard to position the holes. Wrap masking tape around the dritt bit so

you don't
PROJECTS s100 T0 s150

drilt alt the

way through.

Q
rd

Cut

the doors using a homemade saw guide to ensure

Mount the hinges on the doors. A self-centering drilt bit

positions the screw holes for perfectly placed hinges.

straight cut. Lay the door face down so any splintering

takes place on the back of the door.

Position the doors carefully and clamp them to the cabinet.

Then screw the hinges to the cabinet from inside for a foolproof, exact fit.

Cut the crown molding with it upside down and leaning

against the fence. Clamp a block to the fence so you can
hold the molding firmly against it.

Nail the crown to the frame. Nait the mitered corners only il
If they fit tight and are perfectty atigned. let the
glue alone hold them together.

Center the crown on the cabinet and fasten it with screws

driven from the inside. Then center the cabinet on the base
and attach it the same way.

f
q/

ff
d

necessary.

f,
lld

fi!
l[J

BATHROOM

CABINET 121

Custom

closet
organtzer
o

ost bedroom closets suffer from bare

minimal organi-

zation-stuff on the floor; a long, overloaded

closet

rod; and a precariously stacked, sagging shelf. You don't have to put up with it. This
simple shelving system is designed to clean up
some of that clutter. It provides a home for
shoes; several cubbies for loose clothing, folded

shirts, sweaters or small items; and a deeper

(16-in.-wide) top shelfto house the stuffthatkeeps
falling off the narrow shelf. Besides the storage
space it provides, the center tower stiffens the
shelfabove it as well as the clothes rod, since you
use

two shorter rods rather than

long one.

The following pages show you how to cut and

assemble this shelving system from a single

sheet ofplywood (for a 6-ft-long closet), including how to mount drawer slides for the shoe
trays. Birch pllvood was used because it's relatively inexpensive ($35 to $40 per 4 x 8-ft. sheet)
yet takes a nice finish. The edges are faced with
1x2 maple ($40) for strength and a more attractive appearance. The materials for this project
cost $ 125 at a home center.
The key tool for this project is a circular saw

with a cutting guide for cutting the plywood

into nice straight pieces (Photo 1). An airpowered brad nailer or finish nailer makes the assembly go much
faster, and a miter saw helps produce clean cuts. But neither is
absolutely necessary. Ifyou're handy with a circular saw, you can

cut and assemble this project in about a day. But allow another
four hours or so for sanding and finishing.

Cut the birch plywood to size

First, rip the plywood into three 15-314in. by 8-ft. pieces (Photo
I ),

then cut the sides and shelves from these with

closet-6 ft. wide with

guide. For an average-size

shorter cutting
a 5-

l/2-ft.-high

top shelf-you can cut all the sides and shelves from one piece of

314-in. plywood.

tip t.* sure the

pegboard you buy
has square sides.

122

PRoJEcrs

$1 oo

ro

$1 5o

If

yoir

make the shelving wider,

support the plywood so the pieces won't fall after

you complete a cut, and use a guide to keep the cuts perfectly
straight. You can make your cutting guides (a long and a short
one) from the factory edges of U2-in. particleboard. Use a plywood blade in a circular saw to minimize splintering. Still, cut
slowly on the crosscuts, and make sure the good side of the plywood is down-the plir,vood blade makes a big difference, but the
thin veneer will splinter if you rush the cut.
Mark and cut the baseboard profile on the plywood sides,
using a profile gauge ($8; Photo 2) or a trim scrap to transfer the
shape. If you can remove the baseboard easilS you could cut it
rather than the plywood and reinstall it later. Either method
works fine.

you'llhave to settle for fewer

Attach the maple edges

shelves/trays or buy additional plywood. Be sure to

Glue and nail the side 1x2s (G) to the best-looking side of the
plywood (so it faces out), holding them flush with the front

Figure A
Cl*s*t orq*nizer

ll
I

sHELvEs

) I
I

SUPPoRT

)(

&

Materials list
ITEM
ptywood

rt

[$40)

No. 2 pine

... v

[$201

1o-1:t2

14" bottom-mount
drawer sLides [$16) 3

[$5J
1/4" shetf support
pins ($21

ll_".g:*,

2'x4'x1/4" pegboard

llll

MIII )

A"

3/4" x3-112" x12'

ffi

llll^l

to-'rltz

l$3)

sHELF

3/4" x3-112" x8'

mapte

&t /-)- ,/4

FXED

[$40)

x1-112" xB'
mapte

3/1+"

zPlN

OTY.

4'x 8'x 3/4" birch

FOR SIDE
TOP SHELF
SUPPORTS

eolusrner-e

'to-'tlz

1-1ltr" and 1-112"

brads for a brad naiter

6rr-Y
'''-..

t-gl+"

BEVEL ALL ENDS 45 DEGREES

edge (Photo 3). Be sure to use

1-l/4-in. brads here so you don't

nail completely through the side. You can use l-l/2-in. brads
everywhere else.

Then attach the front lx2s (F). These 1x2s should be flush
with the bottom of the sides, but 314 in. short of the top.
The 1x2s will overlap the edge slightly becaus e 314-in.plywood
is slightly less than a full 314 in. thick. Keep the overlap to
the inside.

Lay out the locations for the drawer slides and the fixed
center shelf before assembling the cabinet-the l2-in. width

is a tight fit for a drill. Use the dimensions in Photo 4 and

Figure A for spacing. You can vaty any of these measurements

Cutting list
KEY

QTY.

A2
B1
c1
D2
E3
F2
G2
H6

SIZE & DESCRIPTION

15-3/4" x65-1I4" pl.ywood (sidesl

15-3/4" x 72" pLywood [top shetf)
15-3/4" x

l2" ptywood lfixed shetf)

153/4" x 11-7l8" ptywood [adjustabte shetves)

15-3/4" x 11" pLywood (rotl-out shelvesl
3/
3

4" x 1 -1

/ 4" x 1 -1

12" x 6t+- 1 I

2" maple lvertica

/2" x 65-1 I t+" ma

pLe (vertical.

ront trim]

side tri ml

3/4" x 1-1/2" x 1t+-1/2" mapte (shetf fronts)

3/4" x1-112" x11-TlB" mapte [shetf backs)

J1

)2

image of the other.

3/t+" x1-1/2" x 11" mapl.e Irott-outshel.f backsJ

3/4" x1-1/2" x 12" mapl.e fbase)
3/4" x3-112" x 12" pine Ibracingl

To position the shelf support pins for the two adjustable

ofthe 1/4-in. pegboard with the fixed
shelf location, then drill mirror-image holes on the two sides

314" x3-112" x 24" mapLe lside top sheLf

to better fit your shoes or other items you want to store. Then
take the drawer slides apart and mount them on the tower sides
(Photo 4). Remember that one side of each pair is a mirror

supports-not shown]

shelves, align the bottom

(Photo 5). Mark the holes that you intend to use on the
easy to lose track when you flip the
pegboard over to the second side. Use a brad point drill bit to

pegboard-it's all too

prevent splintering, and place a bit stop or

piece oftape for

3lt" x3-1/2" x29-1/4"

maple (rear

top sheLf supports)

P

3lt " x 1-1 12" x 72" ma ple ltop sheLf edgel

3/4" x1-1/2" x15-3/4" mapl.e (top triml

a
CUST0t\4 CL05ET

0RGANIZER 123

5/8-in. hole depth (l/4-in. pegboard plus 3/8 in. deep in the
plywood). Most support pins require a l/4-in.-diameter hole,
but measure to make sure.

Cut the bevels and assemble

the shelves
Cut the bevels in all the lx2 shelffronts, then glue and nail them

to the plywood shelves, keeping the bottoms flush (Photo 6).

Nail 1x2 backs (Jl and 12) onto the adjustable and roll-out
shelves. Next, nail together the bracing (L) and the base piece (K),
which join the cabinet. And add the slides to the roll-out shelves
(Photo 7).
Assembling the shelving tower is straightforward (Photo

8). Position the L-shaped

tip

121

t",o

your brad
nai[er perpendicutar
to the grain whenever possibte so the
rectangular naiI
heads wiL[ run with
the grain instead of
cutting across it.
This makes them
tess prominent.

PRoJEcrs

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bracing at the top and braces

at the bottom, add glue to

the joints, then clamp and
nail. Because oi the slight lip
where the 1x2 front trim (F)
overlaps the plywood, you'll
have to chisel out a 1/32-in.deep x 3/4-in.-wide notch so

the fixed shelf will fit tightly

(Photo 9).

U^,^" an outline of the baseboard with a profite gauge and,

using a jigsaw, cut out the pattern on the lower back side
of the two shelving sides. (See Figure A and Photo 4.)

Cr

Set the cabinet in the closet

Remove the old closet shelving and position the new cabinet (this

one was centered). If you have carpeting, it's best to cut it out
under the cabinet for easier carpet replacement in the future
(Photo 10). For the cleanest look, pull the carpet back from the
closet wall, cut out the padding and tack strip that fall under the

F)r,"r,ovERHANG

'-

-t'-

3/4'OFFSET

Q
rJ

Cut

the 1x2s to tength. Then gtue and nait them to the pty-

wood sides (Figure A) with 7-t/4-in. brads. Note the stight

(1/32-in.) overhang atong the inside.

5 ilt,'{i;'l;.i11',1'11 .n.

adjustable shetf pins using a pegboard template.

Flip the pegboard when switching sides.

lf
f

nttactr the other halves of the stides to the roll-out shetves

with 1/2-in. screws. Butt them against the front 1xZ.

d
narU the center and ro[[-out shelf locations using a framing
rqurt.. Then mount half of each of the two-piec.- dr.,n.r.
slides even with the 1x2 on each side.

ffo
e*

fr
t#

nssemble the shelves and shetving braces using glue

and 7-7/2-in. brads. Align the centers of each piece for
accurate positioning.

S.t the sides on edge, glue and clamp the braces (L) in
place and nail the assembly together with 1-1/2-in. brads.
Make sure the braces are sguare to the sides.

ft
u

cusroM cLosET oRGANtzER 125

Chisel shallow slots in the 1x2 overhang, then slide the

center shetf into place. Nail at the front, back and sides.

Center the cabinet in the closet against the back watt.

mark its position and cut the carpet out around it. Tack
the loose edges of carpet to the ftoor.

{*Vf}

3/4" NOTCHAT
BOTH ENDS

SHELF EDGE

tf
I I

-\

strove a 76 x 24-in.sheet of particleboard into the

snelf corners and scribe the angtes. Cut the angles and
use them as a pattern to trim the shelf. Nail the shelf to the
supports and cabinet top,

Hot.rr the 1x2 shetf edge over the end supports and
nait it into ptace. Then trim the top of the cabinet with
a beveted 1x2.

cabinet, and nail new tack strips around the cabinet position.
Then reposition the cabinet, push the carpet back against it and

l6-in.-wide piece of particleboard or plywood in both corners

(Photo ll) and use it for a template for cutting the ends of the
shelf. Then the shelf will drop right into place and rest on 1x4
supports nailed to the side walls and back wall. Make sure the
front of the shelf is flush with the front of the tower and nail it to

'Jt

cut the carpet.

Or, if you're not fussy about appearance inside the closet,

simply cut out the carpet and tack strip under the cabinet and
tack the loose carpet edges to the floor.
Plumb and level the cabinet, then screw it to the wall. Use
hollow wall anchors if you can't find the studs. The cabinet will be
firmly anchored by the upper shelf anyway.

Scribe the top shelf for a tiqht

fit

Closet shelves are tough to fit because the corners of the walls
are rarely square. To cut the shelf accurately, scribe a leftover

126

PRO-JEcrs

gloo ro g150

|
'!&C.

of
trim it to make the front flush. Then cut

the top. If the back wall is wavy, you may have to scribe the back
the shelf to the wall and

and notch the front 1x2 and nail it to the shelf (Photo 12).

Lightly sand all the wood and apply a clear finish. \Mhen it's
dry, mix several shades of putty to get an exact match to your
wood and fill the nail holes. Add another coat offinish and let it
dry. Screw on the ciothes rod brackets, aligning them with the
bottom ofthe lx4. Then pile on the clothes.

128
133

Summer sanctuary

Instat[ kitchen cabinet

crown motding

Insta[[ open basket units

'f

34

Etegant and easy bookcase

:t38

Attractive barbecue cart

3"41

Watlpaper one wa[[

SPECIAL SECT]ON:

Stash insurance costs

1.42

Cut your home insurance bit[

127

Make a front and back for each planter box, then set them
upright and join them with interlocking 2x4 pieces (photo 3),
again attaching them from the inside. Although screwing fiom
the inside is more difficult, it enables you to avoid the cracks that
often occur when pressure-treated wood is screwed near the ends.
Finally, screw on the bench supports (see Figure A).
Stain the planter boxes and all the other pieces now to avoid
drips on the deck or patio. It's also easier to coat all the bench
pieces on all four sides at this stage (Photo 4).

Construct the benches

Clamp the front and one of the sides of the bench to a square
edge. Clamp the first set of spacers and the first 2x4 slat to the
front piece, then drive two 3-in. screws through the slat and the
spacer into the fiont piece. Continue fastening, clamping the slats in
position to keep them aligned before screwing them in (Photo 5).

nssemble the front and back of the planters against

a square, Use spacer blocks to align the ptanter box
corners perfectly.

)
h

\ri

Q
rJ

Stana the front and back up, then attach the sides, screwing through the planter box corners. predrill to avoid sptits.

Stain the bench and trellis parts and the completed planter
boxes before assembly to save time and mess.

t!|*ait}

'\
Ct.rp the bench front and bench end against a square
corner. Screw the bench pieces together from the back to
keep fasteners hidden.

f
r/

S"t the benches on the bench supports.

f,,
tV planter boxes to the bench ends.

then fasten the

SUMN4ER

SANcTUARY 131

Attach the posts to the sides of the support btocks with

Shim the planter boxes to [eve[ the benches. Install hidden

tegs to hold the planter [eve[, then remove the shims.

three screws.

lit

',4

fl
Y

S.t"* the right

and teft top rail.s to the posts. Mark the

port spacinifirst to keep the posts ptumb.

Check to make sure the bench stays flat as you assemble it. Toescrew the bench ends to the
screws

front of the bench, then drive two

4 f|

IV

Mark the bottom edge of lattice on each post, then nail

ttre tattice with siding naits.

the top. Drive two additional screws into the posts from the inside

of the planter boxes, but don't worry if the boxes are still

little

wobbly-the top rail and cap lock everything together.

into the end ofeach slat (see Figure A).

Set the top 2x4 rails on the ground next to the posts, leaving a

Assemblethe arbor

I-Il2-in.

Put the benches in place flush with the back of the planter boxes
(Photo 6). Screw the benches and planter boxes together with four

post on the top rail, then clamp the rails flush with the top of the
posts and fasten them

2'll2-in.

other (Photo 9).

screws, then screw on the planter supports inside the

planter box withthree2-112-in. screws each.

Level the planter boxes if necessary, adding hidden 2x2s or
2x4s for legs (Photo 7).
Screw support blocks to the backs of the planter boxes 3 in. in
from the corners, then attach the posts (Photo 8). Cut the posts
7 ft. long plus the distance

(if any) the planter box

was shimmed

up, so that they sit on the ground but are level with each other at

132

PRoJEcrs

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overhang at the outside ends. Mark the position of each

with 3-in.

screws

to the posts and to each

it 1-l12 in. on the outside

butting the pieces at the corner (Photo 10).
Screw on the 2x6 cap pieces to finish the structure, mitering
them at the inside corner and screwing the two sides together.
Drop in the plastic planter boxes ($10 each at home centers or
garden supply stores), fiIl with dirt, and plant with a mix of climbNail on the lattice, overhanging

edges and

ing flowers and vines.

lnstall kitchen cabinet

crown molding
crown molding comes in many profiles and

sizes; this project used rope crown

molding (available at rockler.com, No.53639; $70 for g ft. of oak). If your face

frames aren't wide enough on top to nail the molding to, nail strips of wood to the
top edge to provide a naiiing surface.
A raised corner cabinet can create a challenge where the moldings on each
side butts into it. For an attractive finish, hold the upper part of the crown molding
back a few inches, but extend the thin rope molding portion so it butts into the
corner cabinet.

f.\lala.\a:\:'t:llH

Position and mark each piece of crown molding as you work your way around the
kitchen. Make sma[[ notches in the top corners of the face frames so the moldings
lie flat against the sides of the cabinets when installed.

it upside
down and securing it at the correct angle with
a ctamp and wood scrap.
Cut the crown molding by ptacing

x-i'
The "Base l8" baskets installed here (available at rockler.com, No.
47527; $225 for three) come with two side tracks that could be cut
narrower to accommodate cabinets ranging in width from 15-7lg in.
to 17-718 in. "Base l5"baskets fit cabinets with an inside width of
I2-718 in. to J.5-718 in. Measure carefully, cut the basket tracks to width,
then install them as shown.

',.

,l

it,.,

Remove the cabinet hardware, then cut out the rails where you want to
create an open cabinet. A fine-tooth putl saw ($18 at home centers) works
well for removing the dividers, since it ties flat against the cabinet frame
as it cuts. Sand the area to create a smooth surface.

5UIV1N4ER SANCTUARY;

Cut the tracks

level them

to the proper width, then

in both directions and

screw

them to the sides of the cabinet.

INSTALL KITCHEN CABINET CROWN I\4OLDINGi INSTALL oPEN BASKET

UNITS 133

\-/

his is one of those rare woodworking projects that has

it

all: high style at a low cost, and fast, easy construction

that delivers sturdy, lasting results. This bookcase design

is versatile, too. You can easily make it

shorter or taller, wider or deeper. With a
little know-how, you can even adapt the
building methods to other projects; the fireplace mantel shown here was built using
similar techniques.
You could save a few hours of work by
building just one bookcase, but there's a
financial incentive to build two. By mostly
using the plywood left over from the first
bookcase, you can get a second one for half
price. The materials for one oak bookcase
will cost you about $200; two will cost about
$300. Ifyou choose cherry or birch, expect to
spend an extra $100 or more on materials.

You'll need a table saw and a miter saw

for this project. A pneumatic brad nailer

131

PRoJEcrs $1so

ro

$250

will make the job faster and

All the materials are at

list, p. 135). You may not find
the solid wood panel used for the bookshelf top (made from
easier.

home centers (see the Materials

This cLassic Craftsman-style bookcase was buiLt using construction methods that any intermediate

buiLder can handLe: a

screw-together pLywood
shelf trimmed with strips
of soLid wood. There's no
fancy joinery-no dadoes,
biscuits or doweLs. And
that simpticity aLso makes

this a quick project.

You

can easity build a pair ol

bookcases in one weekend and apply the finish the fotlowing weekend.

Figure A

TOP

314" x11" x33-112"

Simple bookcase

TOP MOLDING

318" x314"

With this simple design, yol

can easity alter the dimensions
to suit your needs. This bookcase

and

r/

is 60 in. ta[[, 11 in. deep

SLEEPER

314"x 1-112"x29"

33-t/2 in. wide.

REAR SIDE STILE
314" x 2-114" x59-114"

Materlals llst
ITEM

QTY.

3/4" x 4'x 8' ptywood (shetvesl

1/2" x 4' x 8' pLywood lsidesl
1/4"

xt'

x8'pl.ywood Iback)

1*

1x2 x 6' sotid wood

lshe[f raits,
front and side stites)

7*

1x3 x 6' sotid wood [arched

raits, rear side stitesl

3+

1x12 x3' gLued panet ltop)

1*

Wood gtue, No. 8 x 2" screws,

No. 6 x 3/4" screws, 1-3l4" finish

nai[s
*To

buitd two bookcases, double these

quantities.

Solid wood thicknesses and widths given

are nominal. Actual thickness is 3/4 in.
Aduat widths are 7/2 in. Iess.

ARCHED FRONT RAIL

3I4" x2-112" x2a-112"

'/
^-""r"","::::^'
x5-112" S|DE STTLE

314" x2-112"

314" x1-112"
x5g-114"

glued-together boards). You could use oak stair tread material

or glue boards together instead. Also, the home center may not
carry the board widths listed here, but you can easily rip wider
boards to width.

Cut the plywood parts

miter saw, use a stop block (Photo 1).

Next, drill the screw holes in the sides using a 3132-in.bit
(Photo 2). Measuring from the bottom, mark the screw holes at
3 -3 I 8, 16-7 I 8, 26-7 I 8, 37 -5 I 8, 48-3i 8 and 58- l/8 in. Position the
holes 1 in. from the edges so the screw heads will be covered by the
stiles later.

To get started, rip the plywood parts to width on a table saw.

If you have a small shop and cutting full sheets is difficult, cut the
parts slightly oversized with a circular saw and then trim them

Sand all the plywood parts before assembly to avoid awkward

inside-corner sanding later. Plywood usually requires only a light
sanding with 150-grit paper. But watch for shallow dents or

on the table saw. Rip two f-in.-wide planks of 3/4-in. plywood

(for the shelves) and two from the l/2-in. plywood (for the

scratches that need a

sides). Then cut them

to length. To make the crosscuts with

sand through the

little extra sanding. And be careful not to

micro-thin veneer along the edges.

a
ELEGANT AND EASY BOoKCASE 135

{
I

crosscut

Assemble the case

the parts

When you screw the sides to the shelves, use

plywood spacers to eliminate measuring errors

quickly and
accurately
using a stop
block. The parts
are too wide to
cut in one pass,
so

and out-of-square shelves (Photo 3). Before

you cut the spacers, measure the thickness of
the shelves. Although they're cut from 3/4-in.
plywood, you'll probably find that they're actually a hair thinner than 314 in. To compensate,

flip the

ptank over after

the first cut

simply cut your spacers a bit longer (your 12-in.

and make a
second cut.

spacer may actually be 1,2-111,6 in. long,

for example).
Inspect the sides before assembly and orient

them so the best-looking veneer faces the outside of the case. Drill 3132-in. pilot holes in the
shelves using the side holes you drilled earlier as
a guide. Also drill countersinks for the screw

2:n'*.

heads.

mark the screw

"Pilot" bits that drill a pilot hole and

countersink in one step cost about $5. Screw all

the shelves to one side, then add the other side.
Don't use glue. The screws alone are plenty
strong, and any squeezed-out glue would prevent the plywood from absorbing stain later.
With all the shelves screwed into place,

locations and

dritl through
both sides at
once. This cuts
measuring and

marking time,
especialty
you're buitding

if

add the back. Measure the case from corner

to corner in both directions; equal diagonal

two bookcases.

measurements means the case is square. Set the

back in position and use a straightedge to mark
the locations of the shelves. Fasten the back
with screws rather than nails. That way, you
can remove the back later to make finishing

much easier.

Cut arched rails

Although straight rails would look good, arches
are cut in the top and bottom rails for a more
elegant look. If you want curved rails, cut the
top and bottom rails 28-518 in. long (you'll trim
them to final length later). To mark the curves
on the front arches, screw two blocks to a long
scrap 35-7l8 in. apart. Bend a 36-in. metal
straightedge between the blocks. Align the
straightedge with the corners ofthe rail (Photo
4). To mark the side rails, use the bottom of a
5-gallon bucket (or any circle that's about 10 in.
in diameter).
If you end up with a small hump or two,
smooth them with sandpaper. For a perfect arc,
use the cutout as a sanding block (Photo 5). Cut

80-grit sandpaper into l-in.-wide strips and

apply a light coat of spray adhesive ($6) to

Q
r,

the sides to the shelves using ptywood spacers to hotd the shelves in
preclse posltron.

S.t.*

136

PRoJEcrs $150

ro

s25o

their backs.
Next, cut the stiles to length, but don't cut
the rails to length just yet. Before you attach any

rails or stiles to the case, position the arched

bottom rails on the case sides and use them to
mark arcs. Cut these arcs with a jigsaw.

Add

thetrim

and top

Fasten the rails and stiles following this

sequence: Attach both of the side stiles along
the front of the case. Align your nails with the
shelves so they don't poke into the case. Then
add one front stile. Set one front rail in place.
Set the other front stile in place to check the
length of the rail. If the length is right, cut the
other raiis to identical length. Attach the front
rails and the second front stile. Don't worry if
the rails and stiles aren't quite flush; you can
sand them flush later. Next, add the side rails
and the rear side stiles (Photo 6).

Two to four nails should be adequate for

each part, although you may need more if

lr*

Mark arches on the

front rails using
a simple arc
made from
wood scraps

jig

and a metal
straightedge.
Cut the arches

with

a jigsaw.

f,
J

Sand out

bumps or
in the
arches using
waves

the rail or stile is badly bowed. The glue will

provide plenty of strength regardless of how

the cutout.
Stick sandpaper
to the cutout

many nails you use.

with spray

Allow the glue to set for an hour before you

sand all the rails and stiles using a random
orbital sander. Start with a 100-grit disc to sand
flush uneven joints and remove any shailow

adhesive.

scratches. Then switch to a 150-grit disc.

To attach the top, glue 3/4-in. plywood

to the top shelf as shown in Figure A.
Then predrill and screw the top in place. The
top molding is simply 3/8-in.-thick strips
cut from leftover scraps. Miter the corners and
glue the strips in place, again using as few nails
sleepers

as

possible.

Finish the bookcase

Unscrew the bookcase's back for easier finishing. This bookcase was finished with stain and
three coats of polyurethane. With all the surfaces sanded to 150-grit, one coat of Minwax
red oak stain was applied. Use a satin sheen for a
clear finish. But because three coats of satin can

look like a cloudy sheet of plastic over the

wood, begin with two coats of gloss, sanding

6::lr;:'

trim to the ptywood case. Use

as few nails as

possible-just
enough to hold
the parts in
ptace while the
glue sets.

lightly with a 320-grit sanding sponge between

coats. Fill naii holes with color-matched wood
putty after the first coat. After the second coat,
add a coat of satin polyurethane. After setting
the bookcase in place, drive one 2-l l2-in. screw
through the back and into a wall stud to prevent
the bookcase from tipping forward.

ELEGANT AND EASY BOOKCASE 137

Attractive

barbe

cart e
'

:
'

his wooden barbecue cart is the perfect

place for parking food, drinks and

cooking equipment when you're

grilling and entertaining. Fill it up at the back

door, roll it to the grill and then roll the finished
meal to the table. When you're done, just cover

it up with a standard grill cover and roll it out

ofsight.
With angles and hidden fasteners, the design
looks like a complicated woodworking project.

But the angles are all l0 degrees, the fasteners

are all standard deck screws, and the construc-

tion is simple enough that you can build it

in a day, even if you don't have much woodworking experience.

Getting started
The cart is mad e from 5 I 4x6 cedar deck boards ripped to

-II2

in.

wide, but you can use other exterior-grade woods like ash, qpress
or pine. The 5/4 boards (actual thickness I in.) work great because

they're strong, relatively lightweight and inexpensive, but the

or 1-l/2-in.-thick wood by

basic plan can be adapted to 3/4-in.-

increasing or decreasing the length ofthe end support (E).

Select straight, dry pieces from the lumberyard. Home centers
sell cedar "green," which means it's not

so

if you

them. Buy

can, let your pieces sit

a

fully dry and may shrink,

for a few weeks before cutting

few extra pieces so you can avoid knots and splits.

The cost of all the materials and

miter saw, a drill,

a jigsaw

a cover was $ 150.

You'lI need

or circular saw to cut the tapers in

the handles and legs, and a table saw (although you can get by
without the table saw if you use standard 3-112-in. wood).
All materials are available at home centers except the spoked
wheels (available online at northerntool.com, item No. 155124;
$10). You can substitute lawn mower wheels (available from
home centers for $10).

The sides are mirror images

Rip l/2 in. offone edge of the 5/4 deckboards, then flip them over
and rip them all3-ll2 in. wide. Cut the pieces to length, planning
the cuts so the best sides face out. Set the miter saw at 10 degrees
for all the angle cuts. Assemble the side frames next to each other
(Photo 1) to avoid accidentally making the same side twice.

138

PRoJEcrs

$1

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$2so

,l Lav out the side frames next to each other to avoid making
I t*o of the same side. Glue and screw the frames together.

Figure A

Materials list

Barbecue

ITEM

QTY.

5/4 x 6 x10' cedardeck boards

wheels
2'x 1"-diameter dowel
2'x 3/8"-diameter dowel
8"-diameter

BEVEL

z
1

5/16" x 4" machine bolts

lfor wheel

5/16"

axfel
nuts
5/16" washers

1O-DEGREE

1+

Exterior wood glue

1O-DEGREE
1

MITERS

-5/8" exterior

screws

2" exterior screws

2 tbs.

tb.

17-112"

lO.DEGREE
MITER

IO-DEGBEE
MITER

Overa[[ dimensions:

34" high x 44-t/2" [ong x 27" wide

Cutting list
Mark the side rail, handle and leg locations with a Speed Square set
to I 0 degrees. Align and space the pieces carefully to ensure that the top
of the cart is perfectly level when the cart is put together. Note that the
handles are set 3/4 in. down from the top ofthe legs to create a ll4-in.
reveal. Predrill with a No. 7 countersink bit, and screw through the side
rail and handle into the legs so no screws are visible on the outside ofthe
cart. To avoid a slippery, gluey mess during assembly, fit everything
together and predrill the holes first, then apply the glue and screw the
pieces together.
Use a

Drill the holes for the wheel bolts and for the towel bar.

l-in. Forstner bit ($10 at home centers) for the towel bar holes.

KEY

F
G
H

Construct thetop and shelf

The support fiames hold the cart together, forming the base for the top
and shelf and joining the two sides. Use plenty of glue and two 2-in.

join the side and end support pieces (Photo 2).

Assemble the rails and stiles for the top and shelf with the best sides

screws at each corner to

facing down. Glue and clamp them together on the worktable. Center
the support frames on the undersides of the top and shelf, using pieces

of

514 cedar as spacers on the sides (Photo 3). Fasten

OTY.

A2
B2
c2
D2

M
N
P

SIZE & DESCRIPTION

44" x3-112" handles Imeasure top edgel

34" x3-1/2" rear legs

32" x3-1/2" front legs

33-1/4" x3-1/2" side rail. {measure

bottom edgel

1+
4
4
4
6
B
1
2
2
6

16" x3-1/2" end support

32"x1"sidesupports
13" x 3-112" rail.s

35" x 3-112" stltes

28" x 3-112" stais

2-3/8" x 1" cornerbraces

18-5/8" x 1"-diameter towel bar
20" x3-1/2" bottom end caps
18"

x3-1/2" top end caps

1-3/4" x 3/8"-diameter pegs

Note: AII parts are 1" thick

with four screws

ATTRAcTtvE BARBEcUE

CART 139

euita simpte, identical frames for the top

and shelf. Be sure to
ruo., corinrensrNK BtrwrH
so you don't split the side supports. sroP FoRALL scREw HoLEs

J
E

predrill

-{

"

!
J

Ct"rp the raits and stites for the top and shetf together,
then gtue and screw on the support frames to hold them
together. Center the support frame.

."-":BtgE

.'....,!!.\

;it;..4l**-

.ffi
i:F.@

tlL

Srr"* the top to the side frames, driving a[[ screws from
inside so they won't be visible. Dont forget to instatl

tn.

f
J

Comptete the cart by attaching end caps to the corner

braces through predrilled, countersunk holes.

the towel bar!

per side, predrilling all the holes with a countersink bit to avoid
splitting the wood.
Set the slats

into the top and shelf assemblies, space them

evenly (roughly 5/8-in. gaps) and glue and screw them from
underneath with two screws for each slat.

Put allthe parts together

top upside down on the worktable. Spread glue along both
ofthe support frame, then position the sides against the top
and clamp them at the front of the cart. Place the towel bar into

Set the
edges

the holes in the handles, then fasten the top to the sides (Photo 4).
Set the

cart right side up, spread glue along the top of the side

rails, then fasten the shelfto the side rails.

To avoid visible screws on the end caps, glue, predrill holes and
screw corner braces to the handles and side rails (Photo 5). Tip

your table saw blade to 10 degrees and rip a bevel along the top
edge of the top end cap so

140

PRoJECTS gr 5o

ro

it fits snugly under the top. The other

g25o

end caps

tilt in the other direction

and

fit tightly-no ripping

required. Glue the end caps before screwing them tight.

for the wheel axles, sizing them so they fit

(note
that
5/16-in.
bolts may not work for every type of
tightly
washer
wheel). Place a
on both sides ofthe leg and tighten the
bolts securely.
Cut 3/8-in. dowels into 1-3l4-in. lengths for the pegs along the
side. Drill a 3/8-in.-diameter hole at a slight angle through the
center of a scrap piece of 5/4 x 4, then use that piece as a template
for drilling the holes for the pegs so they all match. Mark the I -in.
point on each peg as a stop point, then glue them in.
Finish the cart with a clear exterior penetrating oil or sand
thoroughly and apply an exterior urethane or spar varnish.
Cover the cart when not in use. You can find a standard waterproof grill cover measuring at least 4 ft. long for $25 and up at
home centers.
Use machine bolts

Wallpaper
you haven't visited a wall-covering retailer lately, you're
missing a treat. With the revived popularity of wallpaper, stores are offering an expanded range of choices.
The prices of some of these wallpapers may knock your
socks

offtoo.

make some of those fine, expensive papers or fabrics affordable.

It'll also be faster, easier and more convenient than papering an

entire room. This is an especially good solution for a room with

plain walls, slim baseboards and window trim, and no built-ins.
You create instant character.
a

photo of your existing room and measuring

its dimensions. Take these with you to the interior design or

wall-covering store. Ask a specialist to help sort through options
that'll work weil with your existing furnishings. The specialist
will also help you pick the best wall for the new paper and

to order.

,"'T;:LT.Hfi'n|.1l1"*

edges and other designer

papers. Always check the hanging instruc-

tions and ask the dealer about the difficulty

level. Ifyou're a novice paperhanger or fall in love

with a super-expensive paper, consider hiring a pro.

The extra cost should be modest for a single wall, from
$I

50 to $250.

Be sure to fill holes and smooth your wall before beginning.

Rough spots might show through the paper. Then seal the wall
surface with an acrylic primer. It dries hard and smooth. This
allows you to slide the paper

a bit more easily to tighten seams.

The wallpaper shown here cost $122 for a double roll; supplies
cost another $50.

;t,t 'v

ay

,{8"
:J,i

;.fu
;.|.[

.*t

.,o'

''

,.i['
:

xfr
.rl

r.

.s r,
f!{;

Y*." ' ;
L

$,

*'"

KIMURA
SILKSCREEN
WALLPAPER

!T, *

estimate the amount

with uncut

But take heart. You don't have to cover every wall to make a
dramatic change. Papering only a single wall will do, and that'll

Begin by taking

tr

1i.|-Fr'.

vF,

r/ P.

vr'"4

t
I

Wallpaper on one wa(l adds drama to a dutt room with less effort and expense than covering the whole room.
also lets you choose a bold pattern that woutd be overpowering on four wa[s.

It

ATTRACTIVE BARBEcUE cART; WALLPAPER ONE

WALL

111

Cut your home insurance bitl

ou might think your homeowner's insurance is like your

property taxes-a fixed expense that you just have to

pay. The good news is you can actually trim hundreds
off your insurance bill. Your insurance company determines the
cost

ofyour annual premium by calculating your

chances of hav-

ing a loss and how much it'll have to pay if you make a claim.
Using these tips, you can make your home

better risk and reduce

your premiums by 10 to 45 percent. How much you can

save

depends on where you live, your insurance company's rate struc-

ture and risk philosophy, your individual policy and your

insurer's list of available discounts. Call your agent to see which
tips will reduce your rates.

Situations that raise rates

*

A swimming pool lespeciatty with a diving boardl,

a hot tub or a trampoline.

A dangerous condition on your property Itike

cracked steps or a Low spot that coLtects water or
iceJ that could injure someone. lf the injured party
fiLes a ctaim with his or her insurance company,
your rates wiL[ rise.

f, Having a pit butL, RottweiLer, Doberman Pinscher

or wotf mix. These breeds affect your insurance
rates because dog bites cost insurers about $310
mittion annuaL[y.

Increase your deductibte

Raising your deductibte-the portion of a claim that comes
out of your pocket-is the easiest way to cut your insurance
cost. Bumping your deductibte f rom $500 to $1,000 can save
you up to 25 percent on your premium. Raising it to $2,500
can save you 30 percent, and raising it to $5,000 can save you
35 percent or more. The downside, of course, is that you'L[ be
stuck with a bigger bitL if you fite a ctaim. But consider this: lf
you raise your deductible from $500 to $2,500 and your premium decreases by $500 a year, your savings wi[[ cover the
deductibLe increase in four years. lf you pui those savings
aside, you'[L have a cash cushion to pay the higher deductibl.e.

And after the first four years, you't[ save $500 every year
without any extra financiaI risk.

Replace washer hoses

Washing machine hoses that leak or
even burst are a common cause of
water damage. Some insurance companies offer a discount of up to 1 0 percent on your premiums if you reptace
the rubber hoses on your washing
machine with no-burst staintess steel
hoses ($20 a pair at home centers and

hardware storesl. ln 10 minutes, you

times the cost of the
hoses on your next bitL. This is a smart

couLd save five

move even

if your

insurer doesn't offer

a discount.

Shorter no-burst hoses

for toitets and faucets
cost $6 each.

112

spEctAL sECTroN: sLASH tNSURANcE c0srs

Beef up your
gange door
Strong winds often wreck garage
doors. So a tougher door might cut
your premiums by 10 percent. You
have two options: lnstatL a new
hurricane-resistant garage door,
or use a retrofit kit with horizontat
and verticaI bracing to strengthen
the existing door. A new doubte-bay
residentiaI hurricane garage door

can cost as much as $1,200. A

retrofit sotution for a doubte-door
garage wi[[ run about $500 and can

be ordered from securedoor.com

or special-ordered from Lowe's. lf
you have a $1,000 premium, your
payback would be about five years.

Get a tist

of

discounts
lnsurance companies offer
discounts to homeowners for

improvements that make

their homes a better risk.
These inctude safety features

such as indoor sprinklers,

smoke detectors and dead
bott locks. Discount programs

lf you
haven't spoken to your agent
within the past year or you've
made a major home improvement, you may be missing out
on significant discounts.
change frequentty.

Choosefireresistantsiding
lf you're instatting new siding,
instaLI Ctass A-rated f ire-resistant

materiats such as metat, fibercement shingtes and ctapboards,

and.masonry. Using these materiats can reduce your premium by
up to 20 percent, especiatly in dry
areas of the country that are more
susceptibte to fire damage.

CertainTeed Corp,

Your credit score has a huge impact on your insurance costs. A poor

credit score coutd increase your insurance premium by 35 to 40

percent or possibly resutt in the canceltation of your poLicy. 0n the
other hand, if your credit score has improved since your poticy was

issued, have your agent refigure your premium based on your

improved credit rating. Ask your insurer when it last updated your
credit score records and monitor your credit report each year by
getting a free copy from the top three credit reporting companies at
annualcreditreport.com, or catt [877) 322-8229 and request your
free credit report.

ub

le detectors

Some companies will. discount your

premium 2 to 5 percent if you have
safeguards in place to warn of pl.umbing failures. Battery-operated or pl.ugin temperature sensors ($20 to $60
depending on the type) detect furnace

breakdowns and the resutting frozen

you live in a hurricane-prone area, windresistant roofing materials with a higher wind
rating can lower your premium.

Standard asphal.t shingtes take a beating

during wind and haiI storms. So insurance
companies offer big discounts (up to 45 percent) for tougher materials. Before you
choose a new roof, tatk to your agent to learn
about the exact discounts for materiats other

than standard asphatt. ln most cases, metaI

roofing gives you the [argest discount, but it
also costs two to four times as much as standard aspha[t shingles. For a less expensive
roof that stil'[ quaLifies for a discount, consider heavier-grade Class 4 modif ied asphaLt
and shake shingtes, which come with a 30- to
50-year Limited warranty and may be [ess
expensive than reptacing a storm-damaged roof.

ffi

and bursting pipes. Leak detectors

fr[rtsF];,am"a{F#il

[$15 to $200 depending on the modeLl

use wiretess orwired sensors to sound

This leak detector

($13) is available
at home centers
and online.

an aLarm Ibattery-operated model.sl,

or can be wired to an automatic shutoff vatve on your main water [ine when

If

Chooseatough roof

Monitor yo u r credit score

Insta [[ tro

water touches the sensor. For purchase info, search

online for "leak detectors" and "temperature sensors."

Drop additionat structures coverage

Most insurers assume your house isn't the onty buitding on your property. lf you don't have a stand-atone
shed, garage or other structure on your property,
remove this coverage and save yoursetf 5 percent.

Ihink twice before filing

claim

Every time you fil.e a claim, you risk higher insurance

rates in the future. So in the long run, f il.ing a cl.aim can
cost you more than you receive in a payout. paylng for a

smalter loss yoursetf witt atmost atways cost less than

the premium increase you't[ face later. A good rute of

thumb is don't f ite a ctaim if it's worth

Inform your agent about upgndes

lnsurance companies [ike to insure homes with newer p[umbing
and etectricaI systems as wetl as burglar atarms and sprinkter systems because these features reduce the risk of f ire and water dam-

age. lf you make upgrades to any of these systems in an otder

home, let your insurance agent know.

Less

than $1,000

over your deductibte. StatisticaLLy, if you fite two ctaims

in a three-year period, or make ctaims reLated to main-

tenance issues such as a chronic leak or some missing

shingtes, you risk triggering a rate hike or worse. your

insurance company may even drop you compteteLy.

Just inquiring about a ctaim lwithout even fiLing itl)
cou[d raise your rates.
spECtAL sECTt0N: SLASH tNSURANcE

cosrs

113