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CosmetologyforCancerPatients

MalerieM.Misenar

EnglishIIIHonors
Mrs.Kopp
February26,2014


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Cancer patients suffering from the side effects of radiation and chemotherapies many
times have severely damaged self confidence. Patients use like: wigs, makeup, body therapies,
and plastic surgeries cosmetics to help their faltering self confidence, and to allow them to stay
connected with their culture. Cosmetologists and oncoplastic surgeons study for years to earn
certificates and degrees in order to use these cosmetics while treating their cancer patients.
These cosmetologists who focus solely on cancer patients, aim to help people regain the
confidence lost throughout the illness, and relieve the patients anxiety in order to nourishthem
back to health. Ascancerprogressestomorepeople,thefuture holdsmorecareeroptionsinthis
field, including surgeons and cosmetologists, whocanhelpwomenboostselfesteemandremain
connectedwiththeirculture.
The word cosmetology originated from the ancient Egyptians technique of cosmetae, a
process of making themmorebeautifulto theirculture. Cosmetaetechniquesincludedsoakinga
person in a tub of perfume and using coal as eyeliner to fill in their eyelids and eyebrows
(Chaudhri and Jain 164). Eventually, the idea of cosmetics spread across cultures, tribes, and
many societies. Indian tribes, for example, put tattoos on their bodies usingthreadandneedles,
pricking their skin with sharp instruments, or using charcoal. Decorating the body, in this way
showed social class in tribes as well as enhanced physical beauty. Tattoos appeared mostly on
the womens faces to demonstrate their attractiveness and social status (
Barrett and Markowitz
716)
. America, most notably delved into the cosmetics regime during the nineteenth century.
Women started to wear makeup they created at home using tools many times made from
mercury, arsenic, and lead which often caused illnesses. Although the start of American
cosmetics made many women ill, it did push into an essential part of their beauty culture.


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Cosmetics such as hair, makeup, skin, and hygiene all still hold a deep rooted place in
American culture.

Womens hair in todays society, provides an internal feeling of

effeminateness and an external look of femininity. The belief that hair makes a woman appear
feminine, givesapatientwithcancerwhohaslostallofherhairfromchemotherapyanxiety,and
can ruin her selfconfidence. Eventually, wigs, bandanas, and makeup were revitalized to help
women suffering from the side effects of cancer treatments alleviate their anxiety and help
camouflage their illness from the public. These products help women feel beautiful, and help
shieldtheirillnessfromthepubliceye.
As the era of American beauty emerged, the technologies for curing cancer also
flourished. Doctors created many surgical plans toremoveanytissuethatcontainedtumors,but
many times left patients looking deformed. The invention of themicroscopealloweddoctorsto
further their research and develop more advanced treatments. With all of the new advances,by
the twentieth century an oncological breakthrough appeared, chemo and radiation therapy
(Sakorafas and Safioleas 145). In 1896 radiotherapy first came to use when Emile Grubbe
exposed a patient to radium mixed with other chemicals, howeverthepatientGrubbeperformed
the testononlylivedforonemonthpastthetherapy. AlexanderGrahamBelltriedtherapyagain
in 1903, by placing radium in a glass tube, and injecting it intothetumortokillanylesionsthat
caused the cancer. Since this procedure worked much better it added to the fewtreatmentsthat
patients had availability to in this era, along with mastectomies and other oncologicalsurgeries.
Doctors decided radiotherapy should only proceed with cancer of the second and third stages,
where a mastectomy could not get rid of the tumor. However after World War II, doctors
discovered radium injections only worked on handfuls of people. The advancement of high


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voltage radiation, then emerged to replace the needle injections. This advancement resulted in
curing more patients than thepreviousprocedure. Radiotherapysoongavepatientstheoption of
mastectomy procedures for stage one or radiotherapy for all three stages. Findings of minor
errors enabled doctors to improve the therapy when necessary, and it still remains one of the
curesusedtoday(SakorafasandSafioleas150152).
Chemotherapy, another major development in cancer treatmentduring thelate19thearly
20th centuries, remains widely used today. Chemotherapy started as just an arsenic compound,
until after World War II, when scientists discovered that mustard gas chemicals reduced the
growth of cancer cells, by slowing down the growth of malignant tumors. In the year of 1947,
biochemists, Sidney Farber and Y. Subbarow,found that addingfolicacidand5fluorouracilto
the mustard compound decreased the tumor size atanincreasedrate. Researchcontinuedonthe
chemical agents created from plants and microbes. Each component found, slowed the cancer
cells down differently, causing a vast array of side effects changing a patient'sappearance. The
evidence of chemotherapy slowing down and evencuringcancershedabrightlightonthestudy
of oncology and increased the need to treat and minimize the deforming side effects. A trial in
oncology, organized by the National Institute of Health, treated breast cancer patients by
performing a surgical procedure, called a mastectomy. A mastectomy removes all of the breast
tissue, thus removing the cancerous tumor, and any outlying cancer cells. The mastectomy
coupled with chemotherapy produces a drastic reduction in the growth rate of the cancer cells
(15354). Ever since the revolution of radiation and chemotherapytheabilitytoslowdownand
manytimescurecancertheneedformoreadvancedtreatmentofthesideeffectshasincreased.


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Progressive cancer therapies and treatments have created a wide array of serious side
effects that reflect on a patients physical appearance. Chemotherapy releases a cytotoxic drug
into the body to kill cancer cells. Unfortunately, the drug also kills many organisms and cells,
the cytostatic effect, that play a crucial role in creating a healthy physical appearance. This
includes dry dull skin, brittle nails, sunken eyes, weight loss from vomiting, and alopecia. The
nausea and vomiting easily cause the patient to lose a lot of weight during treatment, which in
turn confirms their illness to others that many times they try to conceal oratleastnotpublicize.
Alopecia, typically a side effect of the cytotoxic drugs, cause drastic hair loss from head totoe.
The chemotherapy treatment damages cells connected to the hair follicles causing the extreme
hair loss (Kami

ska 32526). The loss of hair, including eyebrowsandeyelashes,usuallyillicits

poor self body image in cancerpatients. Zanninidiscussesthenegativeeffectsalopeciahasona
womaninherstudyofaestheticcarewigsandthequalityoflife:
A recent study reported that 47% of female patients consider hair loss to be the
most traumatic aspect of chemotherapy. Chemotherapyinduced alopecia can
cause negative body image, lower selfesteem,andareducedsenseofwellbeing.
Hair loss is indeed a symbol of life and identity, and in many cultures, it is
perceived as an element characteristics of a womans femininity. (Zannini et al.
65051)
Patients typically prep themselves for losing their hair, howeverittypicallyneverpreparesthem
the damaging hit to their self esteem and confidence. Thehairlosscreatesincreasedfeelingsof
anxiety about the cancer and cancer treatments. Patients usually fear they look ill to their
friends,family,andevenstrangers.


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Radiation therapy, another widely used cancer treatment has itsownsetofrisks andside
effects patients must endure. The most common side effect of radiotherapies includes extreme
exhaustion and fatigue, along with itchy, blistering, and peeling skin sores. In addition to the
general side effects described above, radiation therapy also causessitespecificsideeffects. For
instance, if thetherapytakesplaceintheheadorneckregionthe patientmaygetmouthandgum
sores, lymphedema swelling, and toothdecay.Therapyaroundthechestorlungscouldcausethe
patient to have a difficult time swallowing, eating, breast soreness, and shoulder stiffness. Like
chemotherapy, radiation can also cause alopecia (Poirier 47). Thetherapykillscancercells,but
also damages surrounding healthy cells. The therapy occurs where the tumor grows, however
other cells get in the way of the tumor. The area where the cancer progresses, grows inflamed
due to the amount of oxygen and nitrogen agents that attach to the cancer trying to kill it.
However, the immunitive agents get killed by the therapy too (Ivanova et al. 329). The skin
sores like, blisters and rashes, and the alopecia causedbytheradiationcreatesbothphysicaland
mental pain for the patients. Patients typically find the sores and alopecia embarrassing and
desire practical ways to minimize the appearance of their illness. Medicines can reduce the
sores, but only to a certain degree (Poirier 47). The patient may develop permanent scarring
from the sores which provide a constant reminder of the agonizing therapy they endured to rid
theirbodyofthecancer.
A cancer diagnosis canseverelydamageapatientsmentalstategeneratingpoorcoping
skills. The poor copingskillscoupledwiththedrasticchangeintheirbodysappearanceproduce
increased psychiatric disorders. Prevalent disorders, like anxiety and depression, are caused by
both the diagnosis and the treatment side effects (Herichzi 11). Patients experiencing extreme


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anxiety and depression are less likely to have a positive results from their treatments. Doctors
believe a positive frame of mind plays a vital and critical role in the survival rate of cancer
patients and their future quality of life. A patients depleting self confidence causes grave
concern for oncology doctors. Since doctors emphasize the importance of the link between
mental health and physical health during cancer treatment manyhospitals havestartedprograms
to specifically address a patients physical appearance. The programs aim to assist cancer
patients in maintaining a positive frame of mind by using techniques involving vitamins, wigs,
and makeup to create a more healthy appearance. These programs help women look and feel
bettercreatingabeautifulharmonybetweenphysicalandpsychologicalhealth.
Many vitamins help improve a bodys healthy appearance. Vitamins such as: B, C, D,
and E along with biotin, calcium, and lactoferrin serve as beneficial supplements while
recovering from chemotherapy. Vitamin Bs (B6 and B12), biotin, and vitamins C and E all
stimulate hair growth (HowtoGrowYourEyebrows12). Afterwomenlosetheiralltheirhair
they start to increase their intake of these vitamins. Vitamin C aids in minimizing the
cytotoxicity, and helps rebuild damaged tissue by using antitumor agents. These agents show
antineoplastic activity, which createsasyntheticanticancerdrug(Guerrieroetal.1). VitaminD
helpspreventillnesseslike:cardiovasculardisease,diabetes,polycysticovaries,andautoimmune
disorders (Joshi et al. 511). Colostrum lactoferrin supplements also increase the quality of life
for the patient while receiving chemotherapy the iron binding protein works as a multitasking
agent when reacting withmoleculesandcellularcomponentsofpathogensorhosts. Researchers
found that thissupplementcouldreducetheriskofchemotherapysideeffects(Moastafaetal.1).
Another supplement, calcium, keepspatientsbonemarrowstrong,whileonbedrestandunable


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to exercise. The intake ofthesevitaminskeepsthepatientsbodystrong,andhelpsthemwith a

quickerrecovery.
Programs suchas,theAuroraCentre andLookGood,FeelBetterworkshopshelpwomen
cope with their illness by giving them several techniques to camouflage their cancer. The
directors of these programs set up wig fittings,andgivetutorialsonusinghairwraps,aswellas,
applying makeup to show off a more healthy appearance. Womenchoseiftheywouldpreferto
style and take care of a wig or wear more relaxed hair wraps that they could change up every
day. Even though a wig costs much more than a hair scarf would, many women decide to
purchase a wig in order to keep a normal appearance. They get to wash, brush, style, and take
care of the wig just like herownhair. However,afterpurchasingawigthepatientmayalsobuy
a hair scarf. Then, she has the option of styling her wig differently each day, or wearing a
different wrap in her head. Each person also gets her own personal color kit that includes her
makeup (Quade). With that she gets taught how to apply the makeup to accentuate her facial
features. Eachwomanreceivesherownspecificcolorsthatwillmake herskinlooksoft,andher
eyes pop. As part of learning to apply makeup women with alopecia, also have the choice of
learning how to apply falseeyelashesandeyebrows. Theircolorkitsalsogivethemfoundations
to use to cover their scars and sores. Hair and weight loss, and skin sores consistently remind
patients of how sick they look to others (Zannini et al. 650). Hospitals specifically have these
classes and programs to help women create a new outlook on their cancer lifestyle, and help
themgrievewiththesideeffectsthatfollowit.
The classes not only teach about makeup and hair accessory applications, but they also
give therapeutic body massages and orientations abouthowtolivewithcanceraswellashowto


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relieve the stress and pain of it. One extremely popular massage used, called Reiki therapy,
concentrates on soothing the mind, soul,andbody. Thetermstandsforuniversal(Rei)lifeforce
energy (ki). A 1997 study shows that Reiki helps support and increaseacancerpatientsquality
of life through the force of life energy into the patient (Bossi, Ott, and DeCristofaro 491).
National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicines (NCCAM) confirms that study
with thedefinitionofReikitherapyas anenergyforcedtherapythroughelectromagneticfieldsin
the body (489). Thetherapyconsistsofdifferenthandpositionsontheheadalongwiththefront
and back of the torso. It typicallylastabout4590minutes,howeverthepatientcanchangeitto
a preferredtimelength(490). Ultimately,thetherapyhelpspatientsfeelmorecalm,relaxed,and
reduces their anxiety and pain. The therapy also creates a more peaceful rest time andgivesaid
topatientsinfallingandstayingasleep.
American Cancer Society (ACS) sponsors programs like, the Look Good Feel Better
class, however, they require the director to have a certain certificate to teach the class (Quade).
To earn the certificatefromACSacosmetologistmusttakeafourclassthatteachesthemhowto
properly help the patient (Look Good Feel Better). Thecosmetologistlearnshowtostyleand
take care of wigs in order to teach their students. They also need to have about 1,000 to 1,500
credited hours earned at a cosmetology school. At the school, cosmetologists learn about skin,
nail, and hair care. They provide special classes as well in bodytherapiesthatmostdirectorsin
cosmetic cancer programs take in order to relieve patients pain ("Education Requirements to
Become aCosmetologist"). Othernecessarycoursestotakeincludes,businessmanagementand/
or public relations. Since most of these programs remain free and funded by the directors the
money comes from donations. The business management classes help directors of the program


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budget money properly to ensure everything necessary gets purchased, while avoiding buying
too much or too little. Since the money comes from charitable donations,publicrelationshelps
find ways to raise money. For example, the Aurora Centre in the United Kingdom sets up
fashion shows every year for the patients to perform in front of their friends and family. This
fundraiser alone brought in over $34,000 to the program (Dunn 33). A class in publicrelations
helps in gaining knowledge about how to promote the program, and fund raise to pay for the
equipment needed. The money raised goes to the hospital that typically hosts the programs in
order to purchase the needed makeup and tools. The hospital also gives a yearly salary to the
director of the programs, who often go by CommunityOutreachSpecialist. Theannualpayrate
for a specialist ranges from $45,000 to $74,900 ("Community Outreach Specialist Salary").
This job creates a fulfilling sense of helping patientsfindgroupsthatsupportthemthroughtheir
cancerstruggle.
Plastic surgery, also gets discussed with many patients diagnosed with breast cancer.
Some women adore the fact of getting to rebuild themselves after mastectomies, while others
would prefer not to change. The long debate between the two sides depends on if the patient
would feel natural or unnatural after the surgery. Many women believe they would look
unnatural if the placement of the new breast does not cover exactly where the mastectomy
occurred. However, anewformofplasticsurgerycalledoncoplasticsurgeryguaranteesthenew
breast sits directly where the breast removement took place. Oncoplastic surgery allowsforthe
breast reconstruction to occur in the same place as the mastectomy unlike many other breast
implants.

The surgery contains no risks, nor does it affect the length of time of the


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chemotherapy treatment. Doctors recommend oncoplastic surgery for women with stages I, II,
andsometimesIIIofcancerwhodecidetoundergoamastectomy(Rancatietal24).
An oncoplastic surgeon makes an annual salary of $293,000 to $512,000 (Plastic
Surgeon Salary). The surgeon goes through a long course of college classes starting with
undergraduate school entering a premedical school that teaches the required prerequisites to
graduate as a doctor in this field. The required courses in premedical school include biology,
chemistry, and physics. The student must also endure four years of medical school. Inthefirst
two years the student goes through the preclinical stage. Thesetwoyearsteachthebasicsofthe
body systems, various diseases, and how to care for a patient. The last two years of medical
school place students in real health care facilities to help perform surgeries and other jobs in
order to gain experience in the field of a surgeon. Although the student already practiced
surgeriesinclinicalfacilities,theystillmustpartakeinaresidencyprogram. Theamountoftime
thestudentmustworkintheresidencydepends on theirpreference. Someresidenciesrequiresix
years while others only require around two to three years. Since an oncoplastic surgeon
specializes in breast cancer, they alsorequiretotakea oneyearfellowshipthatfocusessolelyon
breast cancer to learn how to assist patients with this specific need (Education Requirements
and Career Information). A recent breakthrough by oncoplastic surgeons created this new
surgery that replaces the tumor and breast with a whole new breast that fits right over the one
removed once before. This job in the future has achanceofreachingnewlevels,andmorejobs
necessary as people start to hearaboutitmorefrequently. Ifthesurgeonsfindmore discoveries,
and create different techniques for the surgery its popularity will spring, giving more jobs to
cosmetologistsinthefuture.


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One way a patient gets through and survives theircancerdependsontheirqualityof life,

from anything that has to do with self confidence to health. A cosmetologist who works with
cancer patients aims to help them achieve survivorship, while feeling beautiful. Oncological
cosmetologist set up programs to talk to patients about theirappearanceandhowtoimprovethe
way they feel about themselves. While oncological surgeons provide reconstruction surgery to
help patients regain their before cancer appearance. Surgeons to cosmetologist to outreach
specialists, all provide avitalservicetocancerpatients. Withtheincreasedoccurrenceofcancer
diagnosis, the need for more welltrained experienced oncological professionals also increases.
These professionals play an integral in assisting patients through their cancer journey by
increasingsurvivalratesthroughincreasedqualityoflife.

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