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In the end of course, we would have to vote and choose one over the other
but the reality is that theres a positive place for both cassia and cinnamon in
our kitchens! Good cooks dont need to choosethey can and do use both cassia
and cinnamon. And thanks to the work of our friends at pices de Cru in Montreal,
weve tracked down amazing examples of each; the best of the best of the best of
Ceylon cinnamon and Sumatra cassia.
Ive never really tasted anything like these. Amazing little jars
of fresh fish from the islands docks blended with spices and a
bit of butter and cream. Every time I eat somewhich has been
often of lateI think about sitting on the beach on the Isle de
Groix with a bit of buttered toast, a glass of wine, a good book
and any of these rillettes to spread on the bread. Its a good
image. And a good idea. Im gonna find out more about going
to visit.
Philippe de Vienne from pices de Cru explains some of the confusion: The main difference between
the two closely related trees is the volatile oil in the two spices. Typically, Cassia contains only one volatile
oil and flavour, whereas true cinnamon has four, including the one found in cassia. The difference makes cassia hot and
sweet with a single flavour. The combination found in cinnamon gives a more citrusy, fresh and complex aroma as the single
volatile oil that gives cassia its warmth is found in lesser concentration. That hardly makes one superior to the other. Great
cassia is as good as great cinnamon. The two spices have distinct personalities. Free choice is the order of the day here. As
Philippe de Vienne says, You may have a favorite or love both equally.
In the meantime, do what Ive been doingeat some of the rillettes. We have four varieties on hand, and I like them all. A lot!
Mackerel with Szechuan pepper. Sardines. Lobster rillettes with
curry. And perhaps my favorite, Sea Scallop. Where else can you
get the sweet-salty savoriness of good scallops in the form of an
artisan convenience food? Its so seriously good I could eat the
whole jar in one sitting.
Interestingly, while cassia became the one most commonly used in the U.S., Ceylon cinnamon has long been the mainstream
choice in Mexico. This is one reason that Mexican chocolatetypically spiced with cinnamonis both so exotic and so
appealing to interested American palates. Mexico is the biggest single consumer of Ceylon cinnamon. Its used there in moles,
flans, and hundreds of other dishes. While you can find it in the US, its generally little known. Cassia is used a lot in southeast
Asia and the Middle East. Turkish cuisine uses it with lamb; its used in Chinese five spice, and in traditional Sumatran curries. When we buy cinnamon in the grocery store in the U.S. its nearly always actually cassia. In Asia, North Africa and the
Middle East both are used regularly. Ras el hanout, Berbere and other classic spice blends include some of each.
All are great gifts for seafood lovers. Easy to put out on an appetizer board. Spread on open faced sandwiches for lunch or dinner. A bit of this, some toasted Bakehouse bread, a green salad
and a glass of wine and youll be having a world class meal, prepared in about six minutes!
Lets start with the Ceylon, or Sri Lanka, cinnamon. As Philippe explains, This cinnamon comes from our friends Sanath
and Deepa. Sanaths family has been growing cinnamon for as long as they can remember. Their plantation is situated in the
village of Cinnamon (Im not making this up), 50 or so kilometers south of the capital Colombo. The plantations are a few
hundred yards from the beach which make the soil sandy and well-drained. The micro climate is constantly hot. All essential
conditions for growing the finest cinnamon. After that the family tradition of excellence kicks in. Cinnamon attains its best
balance of the different flavours when it is 4-6 years old. At harvest, quills are scraped clean, peeled from the wood and let to
dry in the shade. True cinnamon quills are always made up of several thin barks hand rolled together. This process demands
great skill; cinnamon quill makers are in high demand and earn a very good living. This makes distinguishing cassia from cinnamon very easy as cassia is always made of a single thicker bark. Then cinnamon is graded in five categories ranging from
0 to 00000 (five zeroes or H5). The finest 00000 with delicate and very thin and pale bark is called 00000 Alba. Our friends
then further select from this grade for our orders. No one else, it turns out, as has ever asked Sanath and Deepa for this
extra special selection.
The Sri Lanka cinnamon is softyou can crush it with your fingers if you want. Youll see it in Zingerman's Deli in thin, 12 to
14-inch sticks that were so carefully rolled back in Sri Lanka. Lamb chops spiced with freshly ground cinnamon and a touch
of sea salt, then grilled, are amazing. Same could be said for pork chops or chicken. Rice pudding, kebabs, rice dishes of all
sorts. Add a bit to fruit salad. Its great really in almost any sweets where you want a subtler, softer, gentler flavor.
The cassia, of course, is equally amazing. The cassia that were getting comes from the Minangkabau highlands of Sumatra.
The trees are beautiful, huge. Sixty feet tall and about five feet across. Philippe and Ethne de Vienne inquired into buying the
bark. It was quite the negotiation. They said Yeah, we have thirty-year old trees. We said, OK, were very interested. They
said, Oh no! We dont sell those! We said to the mama, Were really interested. Well pay more for it. She said, No! Its my
thirty-year old tree. We dont sell those. No one will pay what its worth. So we looked her in the eyes and we said no well
pay! She proceeds to quote us a price2 times the regular price for cassia. She was sure wed never pay. But we said Great!
Well take it. I could see immediately that she wanted to retract the price. Then she said, Well, what if I cut it and youre not
here? A fair question. So we said, Well pay you half now. And now its happening!
The age of the tree is important. Whereas the Ceylon cinnamon is best at four to six years, the cassia gets better the older it
gets. Getting thirty-year old trees like this is incredible. Its like thirty-year old traditional balsamic vinegar compared to the
cheap, caramel colored commercial alternatives that now fill supermarket shelves. As Philippe explains, The older the tree,
the higher the oil content. Bark from older trees has an intense flavour and a touch of bitterness thats not found in younger
cassia. This is not a flaw as you might think. Bitterness is essential to the taste balance of good food. Nothing balances a very
sweet dessert like a hint of bitterness; think of cocoa, caramel or vanilla beans. The cassia is coming in to us in big pieces. I
have a piece of bark at my house thats about a foot long and maybe three inches in diameter. The aroma is pungent, intense;
the flavor amazing. About twenty-two times more intense than anything Ive tried elsewhere.
Each of the two, as you can tell, is excellent. Unlike pre-ground commercial offerings, you do have to grind these at home.
Pre-grinding means that essential oils and aromas are being lost to the air. What you gain in convenience is lost many times
over in taste. A small spice grinder works well. It takes no more time to do than it takes you to grind coffee beans at home.
And the aromas in the kitchen while you work will be totally wonderful.
To help everyone in town become familiar with the excellence of these two terrific spices, we have them both on special
during December. If youre looking at gifts for someone who likes to cook or bake, I really recommend getting them some
of each (along with a copy of this article) so that they can experience the differences and the wonderful diversity of sweet,
spicy, sensuality. Because there is no debate and were not voting, you dont have to choose one over the other. You can have
peace, prosperity and a really positive, enriching and educationally oriented experience in your kitchen every day.
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There are not all that many other women in winemaking. In 1890,
Eileen explained, 10 percent of the winemakers were women.
A hundred years later, in 1990, it was still 10 percent. Today its
about 14 percent. A large portion of those are, like Eileen, making
very high end wines.
Were the second smallest California sparkling wine house,
Eileen told me. We grow our own grapes in our own vineyards.
Were 100 percent organic. The weather is dependably dry
through most of the growing season, so we dont have to spray
and we dont have deal with as much rot and mildew. They do
all traditional methode champenoise productionsparkling wine
made the old fashioned way. Every small step in the process is
carefully managed so that you and I can enjoy some of the best
sparkling wine in the world any time we want to. Its not one
thing, Crane said. Perfection, or doing the best you can, is
dozens of little steps all along the way or hundreds of them.
Domaine Carneros is all about doing the small things that ensure
success and a great bottle of sparkling wine. We spend $50,000
on cork testing alone every year! she said.
The Roadhouse is serving (the Creamery is selling) the Domaine
Carneros Brut Sparkling Wine. Aged for over three years in the
Carneros cellars just south of the town of Napa, its a treat to
taste. Its particularly lovely, to my taste, paired up with the very
wonderful Manistique cheese from the Creamery. And to be clear,
you dont need to wait for a holiday to drink a bit of sparkling
wine. As Eileen reminds me regularly, every day is a good day for
sparkling wine. And she says, We dont realize it, but its really
good with all sorts of foods. Fried chicken and sparkling would
go great. If you, like me, are inclined to try to make every day
special, you might want to take Eileens excellent advice. Cheers!
PS: If youre out in Napa make time to stop at the Carneros tasting room! Its a beautiful winery, the wines are excellent, and I
feel pretty confident the weather will be better there this winter
than here!
Cosmically Good
Geisha Coffee From
Panama
Let me get the warning out of the
way up front.
You do not NEED this coffee.
There are many other wonderful
beans and brews out at Zingermans Coffee
Company. Ive been loving the Brazilian
Peaberry, the Mohka Java, the Ethiopian
and others of late. All are excellent and all
will cost you a heck of a lot less than this one. Like I said, you do
not NEED this coffee. You might really want it. But you definitely
dont need it.
Olio Verde
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NOV-DEC 2015
What is it? Its Geisha coffee, a rare, wonderful and very limited selection of very special coffee beans from the highlands of
Panama. It comes from Finca Santa Teresa smack in the center of
the Panamanian isthmus. Its grown at 4000 to 8000 feet.
Finca Santa Teresa was established by the Beard family in 1997.
In 2012 it was purchased by Toby Smith and Andre Wierzbicki
who have expanded the operations and size of the farm. Like our
friends at Daterra Estate in Brazil, these guys are doing it right.
Theyre paying better salaries to the staff, providing free meals,
free medical care, transport to and from work, training and education. Their use of natural resources is wiserecycling of water,
waste material etc. No child labor is used on the farm. The farm
has a school for the kids of the crew that work there.
If you do try it, youre pretty likely to like it. Light, elegant, velvety. If you like to spend extra to get an incredible wine, or to buy
a really special olive oil, or a super aged balsamic vinegaryou
dont NEED any of those eitherthen this stuff might for you. My
warning is that if you try youll probably want to drink it again.
Your only salvation is that we only have 100 pounds and then
were out. Available ONLY at Zingerman's Coffee Company on
Plaza Drive.
There is, of course, no shortage of red pepper flakes, or ground chiles to add to
your food. But let me put a plea in here
to have you give this special new offering
from a seemingly strange source for
chiles a chance. I think its one of the
loveliest things Ive tried in a long time. Not surprisingly, it
comes to us through our wonderful spice world connection,
the de Vienne family, up in Montreal. Like us, theyve spent the
last thirty years searching the world for great food. In their
case the searching is particularly fine tunedeverywhere
they go theyre on the lookout for spices! To that end theyve
traveled all over Asia, Africa, Central and South America, and
come back each time with some really special stuff. If you
havent yet tried their incredible array of offerings come by
the Deli for a smell and taste any time.
Ironically, after all that traveling to exotic, hard to reach,
often barely mapped places, their latest comes from a spot
thats just a car ride away from their wonderful little spice
shops in Montreal.
Weve known the Pallardy family for the past 10 years,
Marika de Vienne told me. Ever since we opened our store
in the market. They are true agriculteurstheir production
of chiles, melons and squash are particularly amazing. One
of their secret ingredients is the use of seaweed as a natural
fertilizer, and in combination with their expertise, this makes
them exceptional producers. They are a kind and discreet
family, leaving their products to speak for themselves.
But when the Pallardys began to bring in this special chile they
really got the de Viennes attention in a big way. The introduction of their Piment Gorria is a game changer, Marika said.
When they started producing it, we were astonished in the
quality of this Quebec grown Basque Chile. Rich in flavour, it
is of better quality than most of the Espelette chile that gets
exported to North America. As they do not have the ability to
mass market their own amazing product, we buy whole and
powdered chile, and it is a true pleasure to offer such an amazing new product, support our neighbours in the Market, and
continue to show that it is all about terroir.
I agree. I love this stuff. Its color is incredible. A bright reddish orange. The aroma is exceptional. Like a bouquet of fresh
cut flowers. The flavor is subtly sweet and softly spicy all at
the same time. Ive been using it in almost everything. Salads,
potatoes, fish, toast. I asked Marika where she uses it and she
shot back, Everywhere! It is a great finishing chile, not too
hot, with a great vegetal backbone that makes it perfect in
salads, soups, mayonnaise, brownies. . .you name it. Come by
and have a taste any time. The only thing Id add is that after
you try it, you may want to buy two tinsone to have in the
kitchen and one to leave next to the salt and pepper for everyone to add as they eat. Its really that good.
Zingermans Barrel-aged
Hot Sauce from the Brinery
A special edition hot sauce from Ann Arbors professor of pickling, the master of fermentation, the funniest man on the Ann
Arbor food scene, David Klingberger. Daves sauerkrauts and
pickled vegetables have been showing up all over our menus and
on our shelves. This fall he took a big batch of peppers from our
own Cornman Farms and put them to work as part of a special
new hot sauce he concocted just for us. Hes been barrel aging it
for months. Suppliers are limited!!
Manistique Cheese
Usingers Hessiche Land Leberwurst
A lot has changed over the nearly 34 years since we opened
Zingermans. One thing thats remained exactly the same over all
those years is the prominent presence of Usingers liverwurst in
the Delis meat case. Id read about Usingers in the months before
we opened. All signs seemed to point to it being pretty terrific.
The best in the country, many said. I called for samples, which
they sent. The flavor backed up all the advance PRtheir liverwurst was lovely. Delicious. Down to earth, definitely traditional
and very full flavored. Three and half decades later Usingers stuff
is still terrific. I think one of the best things we sell!
Fred Usinger came to the U.S. (to Milwaukee) in 1880. Hed grown
up in the town of Wehen in southern Germany, northwest of
Frankfurt. After doing
an apprenticeship with
a master sausage maker,
he moved to America.
It was an era of large
scale emigration from
Europe. (For context,
Mr. Nueske, the bacon
maker, came a few
years later. So too did
Rocco Disderide, the
Italian immigrant who
twenty years later built
the building that is now
our Deli.) In Milwaukee,
Mr. Usinger began making sausage at the butcher shop of Mrs. Julia
Gaertner on what was then the high end of Milwaukees shopping
district. A few years later, he bought the shop from her, changed
the name, and it has been Usingers ever since.
Today Usingers is run by the 4th generation. In that sense I suppose its the spiritual counterpart of Nueskes. One in Wisconsins
southeast, the latter way up north in the town of Wittenberg. Both
of the founders came from Germany at around the same time,
both started small, both are run now by the fourth generation
of the family, and while both have grown each has stayed totally
dedicated to quality and care and high end ingredients.
Everything we get from Usingers is excellent. But my favorite
has always been the Hessiche Land Leberwurst. Its ingredients
are simplepork, pork liver, pork fat, salt, onions, spices. Its
long smoked, with plenty of good pork fat and a healthy dose of
cracked black pepper. The one pound pieces are small enough
that you could put out a whole one for a party. Or just buy a quarter or half pound. Great on the caraway rye bread. Wonderful
sandwich.
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Zingermans Bakehouse
Hungarian Walnut Beigli
These were the surprise hit of the holiday season last yearso
delicious that seemingly everywhere I went in the organization,
Id bump into someone singing its praises. Beigli is a long-standing
holiday tradition in Hungary. Personally Im happy to have it any
time with just a good cup of coffee. Beigli (pronounced bay-glee)
is a yeasted dough rolled up with a
filling of walnuts.
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Charles Poiriers
Louisiana Cane Syrup
Old style, traditionally made cane syrup from Charles Poirier
down in Lafayette, Louisiana. I probably shouldnt promote the
product too loudlyCharles production is so small that its only
slightly bigger than what would be called homemade. Hes doing
the entire thing on his farm: growing the cane, crushing it, cooking it down and bottling it. What hes producing is truly, I think,
one of the tastiest, things Ive tried in a long time, and a very large
and very happy surprise!
Like so many people in the food world. Charles was driven by the
desire to rediscover family tradition. My great grandfather in St.
Martinville used to make syrup. He died in 1941. My father told me
about his, and how he made cane syrup before he passed away
and so Ive had it in my mind ever since. There used to be mills all
over the countryside. I thought Id enjoy doing it. So I grow all my
own cane. The yield is anything but high. It takes about 15 gallons of juice, Charles explained, to make about a gallon of syrup.
It takes me about 6 to 7 hours to cook it down. I cut all the cane
by hand. I enjoy doing it. At first I was just making it and giving
it to family and friends. But now weve started to sell a bit of it.
Happily, for us he has just enough to be able to sell of a few dozen
bottles. Supply, as you can tell then, is very limited.
Dark, delicious, sensual, superb, its like the best traditional brown
sugar made into a swirling, thick, sensuous elixir. Just a touch of the
deep reddish brown cane syrup on sauted sea scallops is fantastic.
Its terrific on corncakes. On pancakes, French toast, or donuts. Its
beautiful on biscuits. Drizzled on roast duck. Put a bit on grilled
pork chops. Try it on any of the great aged sheep cheeses weve
got. Fantastic. Amazing on the stone ground Irish oatmeal we have
at the Deli. I mixed some with a bottle of sparkling water and it was
so good that I think I could drink that all day.
Travel to
Spain with
Zingermans
April 16-26, 2016
For over 30 years, Zingermans has brought the
best and most flavorful foods of the world home to
America. Now, we can take you to the source! Join us
and savor Spains amazing artisanal food and wine to
the fullest. Well go behind the scenes and learn from
producers about their fantastic olive oils, cheeses,
wines, chocolates, pimenton, and more. And well do
full honors to the king of cured pork jamn Ibrico
de bellota, created from the famed black-footed pigs
who dine on the acorns that fall from the plentiful
Spanish oak trees. Well enjoy the beauty of the
countryside and taste our way through some of the
best food Spain has to offer.
&
www.zingermansfoodtours.com
888-316-2736
foodtours@zingermans.com
ISSUE # 253
NOV-DEC 2015
Last summer I was talking to Joe Salonia, the very nice guy through
whom we get some of our best aged Swiss cheeses. We talked about
Emmental (see page 3) and about aged Gruyre.
Then he started telling about this great Raclette they were getting
from an artisan cheesemaker, one of the last to make the old-style
Raclette. Wow, I said, thinking back on my visit to the Valais
region so many years ago. I remember visiting a guy that made
Raclette when I was there twenty years ago. He was great, and so
was his cheese. I wrote a long article about him for our newsletter.
I think his name was Eddy. Joes face lit up. Thats the guy! Eddy
Baillifard. Thats who were getting the Raclette from.
When I got home, I found the essay Id written so long ago. Some
things dont age wellthey feel out of touch and out of date.
Others hold up nicely. They feel remarkably current and on target
even though we were actually done many years earlier. This piece,
about Eddys approach to work and the cheese he makes, all fit
into the latter category. As I wrote to Joe, Im working on my next
book which will be about the power of beliefs in business, and its
interesting to see how much of what I now teach was already in
my mind 20 years ago!
Ortiz Sardines
Were putting these exquisite Spanish sardines back on
sale. These big and meaty pilchards are cleaned, cooked
and packed by hand. Preserved with olive oil in a beautiful
glass jar, they are packed upright in the traditional oldworld style. Their mellow, briny-sweet flavor will actually
improve over the years, if you can wait that long!
DeCember
Eating Raclette
Conservas
Ramn Pea
When you open a tin of anything that Ramn Pea produces, you will realize before your first taste why they are
considered the best that Spain has to offer. Whether it is
tender sardines, colorful octopus, or velvety squid, everything is handled with great care in order to present you
with a superior product... and wait until you taste them!
2015
ISSUE # 253
His sons are no longer smallthey now work in the dairy and
the cheese remains excellent. Read on, and then come by the Deli
and get a taste! Heres to Eddy, good work, and good cheese!
Eddy certainly didnt meet my image of the stereotypical cheesemaker. Looked more like an ex-rock n roller whod toured
with Guns N Roses than a man who lives and loves great cheese.
Around thirty years old. Big arms. Wide, well-rounded shoulders.
Thick neck. Big heart. Round back. Long scar up his elbow. Big,
welcoming Swiss smile.
nOvEmber
Most of what I wrote about Eddy still stands. In the high production season, he produces 55 pieces of Raclette (5 kilos each a day).
Right now, he produces just 12 pieces. He also built a new caf
inside his creamery. If you go to the Valais you can stop by and
order Raclette sandwiches, charcuterie, wine, coffee and talk (if
you speak French) about cows with Eddy.
NOV-DEC 2015
If you visit the Valais, youll quickly discover that Raclette is THE
cheese. The local shop in the town of Martigny where we stayed,
sells ten different Raclettes. Some cheeses are old, some very old,
some older still. Each is labeled with the name of the valley from
which they came, then by the number of the producer. Raclette in
the Valais makes me think of snow to the Eskimo something for
which we have but a single name, while they have a complex list
of varied, individually identified versions.
The locals in the Valais eat Raclette as a table cheese, cutting off
slices and enjoying them before or after dinner. They also eat
it as part of a light meal, along with a salad and air-cured beef.
They use it in fondue. And, perhaps best of all, they use it to make
Raclette, the eponymously named incredibly delicious dish that
has brought Raclette the cheese much of its international recognition. More about that later.
Many Americans have never had the chance to taste a good
Raclette cheese, as so much of the Raclette sent over to this
country is factory-made, with little life, and less character. Often
it is made in France, not Switzerland. But when you can get your
hands on the real thing, it is truly a wonderful, worthwhile cheese.
Dont miss it.
When you taste a sliver of Raclette youll recognize it immediately
as a member in good standing of the Swiss cheese family. Theres
much of the same fruity, nose-tickling tang that gets Swiss cheese
lovers so excited. How does it compare to non-Swiss cheeses?
Its more upright than, say, the slight sexiness of a creamy Italian
Fontina, more straight-laced than the wild rustic ride of an Italian
Pecorino. Its an upstanding Swiss citizen, with a bit of the fruitiness and spiciness that characterizes German wines. Hardly any
holes, but a hardy, enjoyable flavor.
Eddys grandfather started the dairy in Bruson back in 1925. Had
a few cows, then decided to start making cheese. Eddy loved
cheese as a kid. He admired his grandfather, loved his grandfathers work, adored his grandfathers cheese. Eddys father, on the
other hand, is an electrician. Electrician and politician. He hated
cheesemaking and wanted nothing to do with it.
Skip a generation. Skip the narration. Swiss cheese generation
gap. There are holes in the cheese making lineage, but the tradition stays strong around the holes. Grandfathers made cheese.
Upward Bound
The Ascent to the Alpage
We arrived in the Valais in May, the day before Ascension. Turned
out to be a few days too early. Next Tuesday is the day the cows go
up the mountains, up to the Alpage, the incredibly lush mountain
RACLETTE PARTY
If you want to bring fifteen friends
together for a memorable evening of
incredibly good, heartwarming winter
eating, a Raclette party is definitely
a good way to go. Heres what you
need:
Raclette Postscript
As we enter the Ann Arbor winter, it makes me think of sitting in
the Valais, eating hot Raclette. Id like to go back right now for
more. More Raclette. More potatoes. More work. More magnificent meadows and more moments like the ones we had in the
Valais. I guess for the moment, Ill settle for a plate of hot potatoes
and richly flavored Raclette, and my memories of
the Alpine Cheese Tour, 94.
3. Potatoes
5. Good Bread
The Swiss are adamant that you arent supposed to drink anything cold while eating a Raclette. Supposedly its bad for your
digestion. The cold drink will make the cheese get hard in
your stomach, Ive been warned by a half dozen other people. Personally Ive never had any problem with that.
7. Optional Salad
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Amazing
artisan bacon.
Mario Batali
Save
the date!!
Fantastic
gift!
Bobby Flay
A 5-day
celebration
of great pork
A spicy sweet
German tradition
Lebkuchen
Sandy Lee fell in love with lebkuchen, the traditional German Christmas cookie, while living in Berlin.
It was like nothing Id ever tasted, she recalls. I couldnt get all those complex flavors out of my
head. She became obsessed, learning all she could about them before returning to the states and
starting her own lebkuchen bakery.
The recipe dates back to Medieval times and has many steps. The dough is made from almond and hazelnut flours, whole almonds, egg whites, honey, marzipan and a bevy of spices. The dense dough rests
for nearly a day before heading to the oven. The finished cookies are hand glazed and studded with
almonds (classic variety) or cloaked in dark chocolate.
You will find three classic and two chocolate cookies in this fire engine red tin. Each is about four
inches across and an inch tall. Theyre thick, moist, slightly spicy, sweet and very nutty. The consistency
is a cross between cake and marzipan, making them the perfect after dinner treat with coffee or tea.
Although traditionally intended to keep for months, I think these sweet, spicy, nutty treats will only
last a few days (or hours!) at your house. A cookie with history, a perfect gift for anyone on your list.
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zingermans.com!
Now thats
a sandwich!
Michael Ivins,
The Flaming Lips
Pig in
the city
City Hams
Unlike Southern country hams
that you can enjoy without
cooking, these are the kind
that most of usat least those
of us from the Northare
used to eating. Theyre the
ones you put in the oven for a
few hours, sometimes pinned
with pineapple slices. Skip the
pineapple here, these hams
dont need it.
The hogs are raised in the
Midwest by farmers under the direction of Heritage Foods, the folks who bring us our amazing porterhouse pork chops. The pigs are not confined, have access to the outdoors to root
and roam, and never receive antibiotics or hormones. The hams are cured with salt and
maple sugar for two weeks then smoked over hickory. They are full of flavor and easy to
enjoy. Just heat, slice and eat.
The WeEkender
Our most popular gift box
Red Wattle hams are the sweetest variety. With a thin ring of fat that melts in
your mouth.
Call 888 636 8162 HOLIDAY HOURS 8am-12am Nov 1-30; 24 hours a day until Dec 23
ISSUE # 253
NOV-DEC 2015
Our events are intimate affairs where our cheesemakers and cheesemongers share their passion for great
cheese and great cheesemaking. We hold these classes
right next to where we make our cheese and gelato,
and sometimes bring in our favorite food makers from
around the area to share their stories with you. To get
the inside scoop on all of our events, sign up for our
e-news at zingermanscommunity.com/e-news.
CIDER CELEBRATION
WITH VANDER MILL
Thursday, November 5 6pm $35
The fall air is crisp and so are the hard ciders
from Vander Mill! We will pair up a range of
their ciders with cheeses from our shop with
one of our cheesemongers to talk all about
the cheeses and some special guests from
Vander Mill to introduce us to their great hard
ciders. Well end the evening on a sweet note
with some cider sorbet made at the Creamery!
This tasting is a great way to get ready for
the upcoming holidays, you will leave armed
with notes on the cheeses, ciders, and how we
choose the pairings, ready to wow your guests.
Zingermans Roadhouse hosts regular special dinners that highlight old favorites,
new finds, celebrated chefs and traditional
American foodways. Our dinners are familystyle affairs that deliver really good food
with a little history on the side.
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Dave Rice, long-time manager, has a passion for creating cocktails and hes been doing
it for years. Join us for an evening with him as we explore, make and drink a few fun
concoctions using out of the box ingredients from our retail shelves. Youll leave excited
to head home to your own bar and begin creating.
Choose from
3 seatings:
Every year we dig through our notes and come up with a list of fantastic products that
tasted best over the past year. Ari will lead us through tasting up to 30 of these remarkable items. It will be a night of storytelling and tastebud euphoria. Sign up earlythis
one always sells out!
MINIMUM 10 PEOPLE,
$30/PERSON FOR CHEESE TASTINGS
10
Zingermans Deli tastings are designed to give you an insiders view of the foods
that weve searched the world for. Youll often meet the folks who make it and
leave with a mouthful of flavor and a new understanding of everything from
olive oil to sardines, cheese to chocolate.
EDUCATIONAL TOUR:
WELCOME TO CORNMAN FARMS
Sunday, November 15 4-5:30pm $20
Our Welcome to Cornman Farms Tour is an idyllic and dynamic 90 minute introduction
to the rich history, agricultural projects and humane raising of animals. Join us for a
look at our vegetable and herb gardens, goat milking operation and historic restored
farmhouse and barnand enjoy a meet-and-greet with our managing partner, Kieron
Hales. Well even throw in a taste of one of our seasonal vegetables!
Starting November 2, Zingermans Deli will feature a new sandwich each week and 4 of our favorite shops across the country will be
featuring a long-time Zingermans staple, Jon and Amys Double Dip. Of course, you can get Jon and Amys anytime at the Deli and
here is the rotating schedule of great guest sandwiches well be featuring in November!
Bunk: Portland, OR
Oregon Albacore Tuna Melt
SANDWICHES
No. 7 Sub was named one of the Best New Restaurants by Bon Appetit
when they opened in 2009. For the Signature Sandwich Swap they
bring a new twist on a traditional Italian hero.
With beef tongue becoming an ever more popular sandwich ingredient, Noble Sandwich Co. steps in with this creation that was lauded by
Mens Journal as one of the 50 Best Sandwiches in America.
tmason@zingermans.com or 734-619-8100
Specific venues on the property, dates and times of day are subject to availability.
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Thanksgiving Dinner
Thanksgiving foods available for pickup: Tue. Nov 24th at 12PM until Wed. Nov. 25th.
Place orders in advance to ensure availability. Open 7AM to 10PM daily.
Closed on Thanksgiving Day. Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
A special thanks
to the growers, producers, and their families,
whose hard work contributes the very special
ingredients that make up our Thanksgiving menu.
Thanks to John and Nick Harnois, Tantr Farm, Apple Schram Orchard, Chestnut Growers, Inc., Garden Works, DeGrandchamp Farms, Zingermans Creamery, Zingermans Bakehouse, Zingermans Candy, Cornman Farms, Zingermans Coffee
Co., Grazing Fields, Goetz Farm, Green Things Farm, The Nemeth
Family, Calder Dairy, Coblentz Acres, Wilczewski's Greenhouses
and Seeley Farm.
Heritage Turkeys
THANKSGIVING
MEALS TO-GO!
HOLIDAY MEALS AVAILABLE TO PICK UP
NOVEMBER 24, 25 & 27TH
(Were closed on Thanksgiving Day)
#1 Order
Call 734.663.3663
48 hours ahead
of time
#2 Pick-up
Drive up to
the Roadshow
#3 Re-hEat
& serve!
Marks Stuffed
Cornman Farms Squash
Roadhouse Bread
Traditional Oven
Roasted Turkey Breast
Roadhouse Turkey
Gravy (1 pint)
Savory Cornbread
Stuffing (1 pint)
Roadhouse Mashed
Potatoes (1 pint)
Mashed Sweet
Potatoes (1 pint)
Roasted Cornman
Farms Vegetables
(1 pint)
Zingermans
Bakehouse Rustic Rolls
(4 rolls)
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ONLY AVAILABLE at
zingermans.com or
call 888-636-8162
The Thanksgiving turkey most of us are used to is very different than the turkey that would have been on our table
a hundred years ago. They look different: todays commercial turkeys are all white with a broad, distended breast;
traditional turkeys range from white to tan to bronze to
black and have a longer, leaner body. They act differently:
most turkeys today have been bred to live in close confinement with little movement; traditional turkeys trot, strut,
run, roost, and fly (Les Nessman was right). They taste different, too: grocery store turkeys are pumped full of brine
so theyre not completely bland; traditional birds have a
bigger, more robust flavor.
November
DecEmber
MANCHESTER
$2 off the regular price!
The Manchester draws its origins from a soft-ripened double cream cheese along the Welsh-English
border, but through process differences (both
intentional and unintentional), no longer bears any resemblance to its very distant
cousin. Through gentle pasteurization and slow culturing of the milk, the Manchester
retains an amazing expression of the character of the milk used to make it. Made with
Jersey cows milk, this cheese is creamy with a fudge-like texture and a flavor reminiscent of cultured butter and mushrooms! Perfect with a crusty baguette, ripe summer
fruit, and some good friends!
WASHTENAW
$2 off the regular price!
MANISTIQUE
$2 off the regular price!
Cheeses have been wrapped in leaves for thousands of years. Leaves are the plastic of
the past, but unlike the wraps of today, which usefully preserve the initial integrity of
the cheese, leaves alter the texture and flavor. This cheese makes a dramatic presentation as the cabbage leaves are opened to reveal a soft, creamy cheese that captures the
wilder natures of the Manchester.
januAr
& Feb y
RUarY
ONLy!
Save
the date!!
A 5-day
celebration
of great pork
and fundraiser for the
Southern Foodways Alliance
and the Washtenaw County 4-H
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from:
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t
r
e
s
s
e
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Elegant
Bche De Nol
Available
Our version of the traditional French
holiday dessert: a light, vanilla chiffon cake EVERY DAY
filled with walnut rum buttercream, rolled in December
up and covered in chocolate buttercream. Its decorated with
handmade edible sugar mushrooms, holly and freshly fallen
sugar snow. Each log serves 8-12 so its plenty for a good-sized
holiday party and it keeps long enough that you can enjoy
for a few days after a small family gathering. Either way its a
great centerpiece for a holiday table and fun to decorate with
edible treats of your own.
Rig Jancsi
Krmes
Dobos Torta
(doh bosh) Five thin layers of vanilla sponge cake and espresso
dark chocolate butter cream, all topped with pieces of crispy
dark caramel. One of Hungarys most popular tortas.
Cardinal Slice
Esterhzy Torta
Our version of this famous torta is made up of layers of
toasted walnut cake filled with a magnificent mixture of
vanilla bean pastry cream, fresh whipped cream and more
toasted walnut, decorated with vanilla and dark chocolate
poured fondant in a distinctive design used specifically for
Esterhzy tortas.
Available
EVERY DAY
in December
who are kids at
Appreciated Gifts!
Stollen
A holiday staple at the Bakehouse that seems to get more popular each year we bake it. Stollen is a traditional German holiday bread made with sweet butter, Bacardi rum, candied lemon
and orange peel, oranges, Michigan dried cherries, citron, currants, almonds, sultanas, real vanilla and more.
Gingerbread Cake
Is dad ready to learn how to make his first
perfect pie crust? Want your friends to join you
for a pizza-making party? Do you want to send
mom on a BAKE!-cation?
Give em a BAKE! gift card and let your loved
ones pick the class thats right for them!
Call 734.761.7255 for more information
about giving the gift of BAKE!
raspberry and
chocolate rugelach
Beigli
14
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A cookbook collection of 15 of our favorite recipes from our annual Fancy Schmancy
Holiday Cookies baking class! Available at Zingermans Bakehouse on Plaza Drive.
Each December in BAKE! (the baking school at Zingermans Bakehouse), we hold dozens of
Fancy Schmancy Holiday Cookie Classes. Each class is for 12 people. We teach four different
cookies and the students leave with about eight dozen cookies theyve made themselves.
What started as a little idea has turned into an annual tradition for us and hundreds of
students.
Coming
SOON!
We held our first ever FSHC class in December of 2009. We originally scheduled 7 classes.
They sold out so we added more, for a total of twelve classes. The next year, we thought
we had it and offered what seemed like a ton of classes:17! When we put them online in
June, they sold out within hours. Clearly not enough, so we added more. May became the
busiest month of the year for BAKE! because thats when wed print and post the schedule
of FSHC classes for the next December. Our wonderfully loyal students would begin asking
about the classes in March and there would be a frenzy to buy up seats when they became
available in May.
It became clear that a tradition was in the making. We had discovered a social needa
desire of friends and families to do something together related to food during the holidays.
Groups were coming back year after year. It was their holiday baking party, but even better because we did all of the measuring, and gave instruction and help that made it almost
impossible to fail. And then we cleaned up! This was the modern version of what families
and friends had done together for years, but perhaps had stopped because of modern time
and energy pressures. New traditions were in the making!
When we started BAKE! in 2005, we wanted to inspire people to bake and to create a community of bakers. What is most thrilling about the success of these classes is the social
connections they support in our community and the role the classes play in rejuvenating
the tradition of baking. We expect close to 700 people to come to BAKE! to make cookies
together this coming December (2015). In a world that sometimes seems only to bring dark
news, this seems like a sweet thing to celebratea simple and joyful pastime shared by
friends and families.
This book is a compilation of our favorite recipes (so far) from our December cookie classes. We have written it for those of you who missed some of the earlier classes and for those
of you who havent or cant make it to a class. We hope that you can enjoy making these
cookies on your own or with friends. Perhaps start your own December tradition. If you do
please let us know. If you need help with the recipes, we are available to you. Give us a call
at 734-761-7255 and ask for a BAKE! instructor or email us at bakestaff@zingermans.com.
NovembER
DecEmber
Blueberry Buckle
Dec. 3-6
Pepper Bacon Farm Bread
Dec. 4-5
Cranberry-Walnut Pie
This ones become one of our most popular pies ever. These are
fresh cranberries from northern Wisconsin, mixed with walnuts,
sweet butter and real vanilla. The contrasting red of the cranberries and the autumn browns of the toasted walnuts mean that its
particularly handsome on a well-dressed holiday table, but I have
to admit, it tastes just as good off paper plates too.
Jumbleberry Pie
Filled to the brim with a jumble of juicy berriesraspberries,
blackberries, blueberries, and cranberries. Not too sweet and
not too tart filling inside. Flaky buttery crust on the outside. A
delight to eat.
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