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Harthill Quarry

Harthill Quarry
Most people walk past Harthill en-route for
Clifftop, dismissing it as a dodgy, overgrown
quarry with loose rock and in-situ bikers;
more at home in Lancashire than The Peak.
Whilst all this is true the quarry is also home
to some great problems which should tempt
homesick Lancastrians and other lovers of
dodgy, overgrown quarries with loose rock,
in-situ bikers and great bouldering.

Conditions
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3

The ledges on Monkey Bar and Crumbling Wall


will re-vegetate and may need a clean. Its
worth noting that Scrap Heap and
Wackaboosh have a capping roof which makes
them fairly reliable for rainy day action.

Jon Fullwood prospecting


on Wackaboosh

The Monkey Bar


At the extreme left end of the quarry is a tall wall guarded by a half height overlap.
1. Chinka Choo
A nice arte and overlap taken on jugs.
2. The Monkey Bar Kid 6c
The wall climbed directly with some thin moves to a good hold then tackle the overlap
and wall above on improving holds. Easier for the tall.
3. The Monkey Bar 6a
An easier variation. Climb the crack and reach left to the jug under the overlap, then
up. Gives access to the upper section at a more consistent grade. Worrying fun.
4. Monkey 6a
From the slot on the short arte for the right hand reach over the overlap and then
rock up over to the right via a sidepull. Not the best of landings.

The Monkey Bar Kid 6c

9. Racrumbzel 4
Let down your hair and climb the
corner from sitting.
10. Borehole Bump 5+
A fun problem. Make a two handed
jump from the big low jug to the break.
11. Crumbelina 6a
The small prow with a borehole on its
left flank. Sit start and climb the prow.
Climbed as an eliminate using the
arete/obvious small layaway and
borehole only at about 6a. Easier if
holds further right are used.

Crumbling Wall
Below the Monkey Bar is a small bay with
a number of reasonable problems.
Descent from problems 5-8 is either to
reverse, jump or make a tricky traverse off
in either direction.
5. Soft on the V 6a
Climb the wall via a flat hold to a nice V
crimp and then the break.
6. Monsoon Blue 6a+
The left hand crack line is tricky.
7. Chinese Toe Burn 5
The right hand crack line.
8. Crumblestiltskin 3
The flake crack right again.

The V

Soft

5
6

The problems in the centre of the quarry have been underplayed


previously and deserve more attention. Theres also a fallen
LGP

The Scrap Heap


12. Kata 6a+
Left of the junk pile is a hanging flake on the left of the prow.
13. Kappix 7a
The arte right of Kata. 7a+ from low matched on the rail.
14. Wackaboosh 8a
The LGP arte just left of Scrapheap Challenge. Capped by a roof
this is fairly weatherproof.
15. Scrap Heap Challenge 7a
The superb steep prow 6m right of Kappix. The back wall is out at
the start. Be as inventive as you like with the landing zone.
Paul Worsdale stretching
out on Kappix 7a

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The quarry is owned by Stanton Estates and


bouldering should be avoided when the M.A.T.A.
motor biking meets are taking place. Trad climbing
here should be avoided at all times

Clifftop

Upper Tier

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6

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Clifftop
A few new things which give something
different for the regular visitor. Some of
them will have been climbed with a rope in a
former life and make easy highballs. The
Lozenge is tucked away in the gully beyond
Last Slab; the problems are okay and would
benefit from some traffic.

The upper tier has a handful of varied easier but sometimes committing
problems.
1. Tor Blimey 5
The narrow side wall from a sit start making use of the short finger crack.
2. Arte on Left 5+
Climb the arte on the left or the right side above a narrow landing. The
top may need a clean.
3. Thorn Pit 5
Climb the slim wall to the left above the thorn pit. Start by pinching the
right arte and a taking a sloper with the left. Nothing like Brad Pit but the
landing pit is thorny.
4. Stinkhorn 4
The overhung corner and wall and cracks above (avoid stepping on grass
ledge on right).
5. Bye Jupiter 4+
The spectacular triangular nose which dominates the upper tier is climbed
on its right with care. Escape slightly right at the top. High!
6. Motogo 3+
Twin cracks.

Main Block
There are endless variations and link ups on
the main block for the regular visitor. This
ones a good alternative to Brad's Block High
being a bit longer, more involved and it has
some (about 2 metres) independent new
climbing too!
7. High Reversed 6c+
Start on the slots of Steep Rib and move left
on slopes to reverse the line of Brad's High. At
the end go to the final slot then span
inventively across the gap and finish up Right
Nose.

Little Cave Area


Two good problems one old, one new which see
little attention compared to the main block sub
7s.
8. Sheep Dip 6c
Avoiding the crack pull over the bulge and left to
slots, then left again to finish.
9. Kong Wubba 6c+
The hanging groove of Sheep Dip climbed direct.

Traversity

The Lozenges

There are some quality new traverses to get stuck into. If


you like your action low and sideways heres a list to work
through.

There are two low boulders hidden around


the corner left of the Last Slab area. The
first has a couple of minor problems but the
second is definitely worth the 5 minute
walk from the main block for the two
traverse variations. The view from the top
at sunset is pretty special too.

4 Fhn Traverse
4+ The Loose Moose
5+ Low Slab Traverse
6a The Water Method
6a+ Hang on a Minute
6b Loz
6b+ Soap Dodger
6c Nurse Gladys
6c+ High Reversed
7a Meat Boutique
7b Slopey Traverse
7b+ Pinch Punch
7c Green Lipped Muscle

Chasecliffe
Stanton int Woods
Cratcliffe
Black Garden
Stanton int Woods
Clifftop
Cratcliffe
Slinter Wall
Clifftop
Shining Cliff
Some Woodland Boulders
Bradley Edge
Cratcliffe

The Troche
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10. Low Dose 5


From a sit start (angular boulder out) bump
up the lip rightwards.
11. Trocher 4+
Sit start using a right hand jam and span
direct to the top.

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The Lozenge

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12

Jon Fullwood on Green Lipped Muscle 7c

12. Tog 6a
Sitting start to the obvious flake pull into
the flake using a nipple out right.
13. Ding, Dang, Dong 6b+
Hang the jug on the nose and mantle it out.
14. Loz 6b
A good problem. Starting sitting at seam
and pocket, hook and slap your way along
and around the blunt arte to a mantle
above the flake line.
15. Lozenger 6b+
Another good traverse with a tough drop
down crux. Start up Tog and reverse Loz to
a finishing roll with a heel in the leftmost
pock.

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