How To Test The Rear O2 Heater

How to Test the Rear O2 Heater -P0141
(1998-2002 1.8L Corolla)

OXYGEN SENSOR DIAGNOSIS
O2 sensors are amazingly rugged considering the operating environment they live in. But O2 sensors
do wear out and eventually have to be replaced.
The performance of the O2 sensor tends to diminish with age as contaminants accumulate on the
sensor tip and gradually reduce its ability to produce voltage. This kind of deterioration can be caused
by a variety of substances that find their way into the exhaust such as lead, silicone, sulfur, oil ash
and even some fuel additives. The sensor can also be damaged by environmental factors such as
water, splash from road salt, oil and dirt.
As the sensor ages and becomes sluggish, the time it takes to react to changes in the air/fuel mixture
slows down which causes emissions to go up. This happens because the flip-flopping of the fuel
mixture is slowed down which reduces converter efficiency. The effect is more noticeable on engines
with multiport fuel injection (MFI) than electronic carburetion or throttle body injection because the
fuel ratio changes much more rapidly on MFI applications.
If the sensor dies altogether, the result can be a fixed, rich fuel mixture. Default on most fuel injected
applications is mid-range after three minutes. This causes a big jump in fuel consumption as well as
emissions. And if the converter overheats because of the rich mixture, it may suffer damage.
One EPA study found that 70% of the vehicles that failed an I/M 240 emissions test needed a new O2
sensor.
Most O2 sensor problems will cause the OBD II system to set one or more diagnostic trouble codes
(DTCs) and turn on the Check Engine light. These are the OBD codes associated with O2 sensor
faults:
P0030....HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0031....HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0032....HO2S Heater Control Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0033....Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit
P0034....Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Low
P0035....Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit High
P0130....O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0131....O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0132....O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0133....O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0134....O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0135....O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0136....O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2

If an O2 sensor is marginally sluggish or is slightly biased rich or lean, it may not set a fault code. The
only way to know if the O2 sensor is functioning normally is to check its responsiveness to changes in
the air/fuel mixture. You can read the O2 sensor's voltage output with a scan tool or digital voltmeter,
but the transitions are hard to see because the numbers jump around so much. The best way to
observe O2 sensor output voltage changes is with a Digital Storage Oscilloscope (DSO). A scope will
display the sensor voltage output as a wavy line that shows both it's amplitude (minimum and
maximum voltage) as well as its frequency (transition rate from rich to lean).
A good O2 sensor should produce an oscillating waveform at idle that makes voltage transitions from
near minimum (0.1 v) to near maximum (0.9v). Making the fuel mixture artificially rich by feeding
propane into the intake manifold should cause the sensor to respond almost immediately (within 100
milliseconds) and go to maximum (0.9v) output. Creating a lean mixture by opening a vacuum line
should cause the sensor output to drop to its minimum (0.1v) value. If the sensor does not flip-flop
back and forth quickly enough, it may indicate a need for replacement.
If the O2 sensor circuit opens, shorts or goes out of range, it may set a fault code and illuminate the
Check Engine or Malfunction Indicator Lamp. If additional diagnosis reveals the sensor is defective,
replacement is required. But many O2 sensors that are badly degraded continue to work well enough
not to set a fault code, but not well enough to prevent an increase in emissions and fuel consumption.
The absence of a fault code or warning lamp, therefore, does not mean the O2 sensor is functioning
properly. The sensor may be lazy, or biased rich or lean.
A company called Lenehan Research makes a handheld O2 sensor tester that checks the response
time of the O2 sensor to show if it is good or bad. The tester requires the oxygen sensor to jump from
below 175mV to above 800mV in less than 100mS when the throttle is snapped. If the sensor does
not respond quickly enough it fails the test. The tester also shows closed loop operation on a fast,
ultra-bright, colored 10 LED display, and tests the PCM control of the fuel feedback control system.
OXYGEN SENSOR REPLACEMENT
Any O2 sensor that is defective obviously needs to be replaced. But there may also be benefits to
replacing the O2 sensor periodically for preventative maintenance. Replacing an aging O2 sensor
that has become sluggish can restore peak fuel efficiency, minimize exhaust emissions and prolong
the life of the converter.
Unheated 1 or 2 wire wire O2 sensors on 1976 through early 1990s vehicles can be replaced every
30,000 to 50,000 miles. Heated 3 and 4-wire O2 sensors on mid-1980s through mid-1990s
applications can be changed every 60,000 miles. On OBD II equipped vehicles (1996 & up), a
replacement interval of 100,000 miles can be recommended.
The oxygen sensor can be removed from the exhaust manifold using a special oxygen sensor socket
(which has a cutout to clear the wires), or a 22mm socket. The sensor will come out easier if the
engine is slightly warm but not hot to the touch. Place the socket over the sensor and turn
counterclockwise to loosen it. If it is frozen, apply penetrating oil and heat around the base of the
sensor.
When installing a new "direct fit" or OEM oxygen sensor, the wiring connector on the new sensor will
plug into the connector with no modifications needed. But if you are installing a "universal" oxygen
sensor, the original wiring connector will have to be cut off so the wires on the new sensor can be
spliced to the wires that went to the connector. With 4-wire sensors, one wire is the signal wire, one is
ground, and the other two are for the heater circuit. The wires are color coded, but the colors on the
universal sensor probably won't match those on the original sensor. See the chart below from the
color coding used on various brands of oxygen sensors:
Typical oxygen sensor wiring color codes.
Oxygen Sensor Q & A

How many oxygen sensors are on today's engines?
It depends on the model year and type of engine. On most four and straight six cylinder engines,
there is usually a single oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust manifold. On V6, V8 and V10
engines, there are usually two oxygen sensors, one in each exhaust manifold. This allows the
computer to monitor the air/fuel mixture from each bank of cylinders.
On later model vehicles with OBD II (some 1993 and '94 models, and all 1995 and newer models),
one or two additional oxygen sensors are also mounted in or behind the catalytic converter to monitor
converter efficiency. These are referred to as the downstream O2 sensors, and thee will be one for
each converter if the engine has dual exhausts with separate converters.
How are the oxygen sensors identified on a scan tool?
When displayed on a scan tool, the right and left upstream oxygen sensors are typically labeled Bank
1, Sensor 1 and Bank 2, Sensor 1. The Bank 1 sensor will always be on the same side of a V6 or V8
engine as cylinder number one.
On a scan tool, the downstream sensor on a four or straight six cylinder engine with single exhaust is
typically labeled Bank 1, Sensor 2. On a V6, V8 or V10 engine, the downstream O2 sensor might be
labeled Bank 1 or Bank 2, Sensor 2. If a V6, V8 or V10 engine has dual exhausts with dual
converters, the downstream O2 sensors would be labeled Bank 1, Sensor 2 and Bank 2, Sensor 2.
Or, the downstream oxygen sensor might be labeled Bank 1 Sensor 3 if the engine has two upstream
oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifold (some do to more accurately monitor emissions).
It's important to know how the O2 sensors are identified because a diagnostic trouble code that
indicates a faulty O2 sensor requires a specific sensor to be replaced. Bank 1 Sensor 1 might be the
back O2 sensor on a transverse V6, or it might be the one on the front exhaust manifold. What's
more, the O2 sensors on a transverse engine might be labeled differently than those on a rear-wheel
drive application. There is not a lot of consistency as from one vehicle manufacturer to another as to
how O2 sensors are labeled, so always refer to the OEM service literature to find out which sensor is
Bank 1 Sensor 1 and which one is Bank 2 Sensor 1. This information can be difficult to find. Some
OEMs clearly identify which O2 sensor is which but others do not. If in doubt, call a dealer and ask
somebody in the service department.
For Oxygen Sensor Locations, Click Here.
How does a downstream O2 sensor monitor converter efficiency?
A downstream oxygen sensor in or behind the catalytic converter works exactly the same as an
upstream O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold. The sensor produces a voltage that changes when the
amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust changes. If the O2 sensor is a traditional zirconia type
sensor, the voltage output drops to about 0.2 volts when the fuel mixture is lean (more oxygen in the
exhaust). When the fuel mixture is rich (less oxygen in the exhaust), the sensor's output jumps up to
a high of about 0.9 volts. The high or low voltage signal tells the PCM the fuel mixture is rich or lean.
On some newer vehicles, a new type of Wide Ratio Air Fuel (WRAF) Sensor is used. Instead of
producing a high or low voltage signal, the signal changes in direct proportion to the amount of
oxygen in the exhaust. This provides a more precise measurement for better fuel control. These
sensors are also called wideband oxygen sensors because they can read very lean air/fuel mixtures.
The OBD II system monitors converter efficiency by comparing the upstream and downstream
oxygen sensor signals. If the converter is doing its job and is reducing the pollutants in the exhaust,
the downstream oxygen sensor should show little activity (few lean-to-rich transitions, which are also
called "crosscounts"). The sensor's voltage reading should also be fairly steady (not changing up or
down), and average 0.45 volts or higher.
If the signal from the downstream oxygen sensor starts to mirror that from the upstream oxygen
sensor(s), it means converter efficiency has dropped off and the converter isn't cleaning up the
pollutants in the exhaust. The threshold for setting a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and turning on the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is when emissions are estimated to exceed federal limits by 1.5
times. See Troubleshooting a P0420 Catalyst Code for more info about converter problems.
If converter efficiency had declined to the point where the vehicle may be exceeding the pollution
limit, the PCM will turn on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) and set a diagnostic trouble code. At
that point, additional diagnosis may be needed to confirm the failing converter. If the upstream and
downstream O2 sensors are functioning properly and show a drop off in converter efficiency, the
converter must be replaced to restore emissions compliance. The vehicle will not pass an OBD II
emissions test if there are any converter codes in the PCM.
What's the difference between a "heated" and "unheated" oxygen sensor?
Heated oxygen sensors have an internal heater circuit that brings the sensor up to operating
temperature more quickly than an unheated sensor. An oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 to 650
degrees F) before it will generate a voltage signal. The hot exhaust from the engine will provide
enough heat to bring an O2 sensor up to operating temperature, but it make take several minutes
depending on ambient temperature, engine load and speed. During this time, the fuel feedback
control system remains in "open loop" and does not use the O2 sensor signal to adjust the fuel
mixture. This typically results in a rich fuel mixture, wasted fuel and higher emissions.
By adding an internal heater circuit to the oxygen sensor, voltage can be routed through the heater as
soon as the engine starts to warm up the sensor. The heater element is a resistor that glows red hot
when current passes through it. The heater will bring the sensor up to operating temperature within
20 to 60 seconds depending on the sensor, and also keep the oxygen sensor hot even when the
engine is idling for a long period of time.
Heated O2 sensors typically have two-three or four wires (the extra wires are for the heater circuit).
Note: Replacement O2 sensors must have the same number of wires as the original, and have the
same internal resistance.
The OBD II system also monitors the heater circuit and will set a trouble code if the heater circuit
inside the O2 sensor is defective. The heater is part of the sensor and cannot be replaced separately,
so if the heater circuit is open or shorted and the problem is not in the external wiring or sensor
connector, the O2 sensor must be replaced.
Testing trouble code P0141: Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit (Sensor #2) on your 1.8L Toyota
Corolla involves two basic tests. These two are: making sure the rear O2 sensor's heater is getting
power and ground, and then checking the heater's internal resistance.
These two tests can be easily accomplished with only a multimeter. Yes, that's right, you don't need
an expensive scan tool to test the rear oxygen sensor's heater!
NOTE: This oxygen sensor is known by several different names:
1. Rear Heated Oxygen (O2) Sensor.
2. HO2S 1/2.
3. Downstream Oxygen (O2) Sensor.
4. Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2.
5. Post-Catalytic Converter O2 Sensor.
Here are the contents of this tutorial:
Circuit Descriptions of the Downstream Oxygen Sensor.
TEST 1: Verifying the Heater Element is Getting Power and Ground.
TEST 2: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance.
Where to Buy the Oxygen Sensor and Save Some $$$.
More 1.8L Toyota Diagnostic Tutorials.
NOTE: If you need to test the front oxygen sensor's heater (or trouble code: P0135), see this tutorial:
Front Oxygen Sensor Heater Test -P0135 (1998-2002 1.8L Toyota Corolla).
Circuit Descriptions of
the Downstream Oxygen Sensor
The rear oxygen sensor is equipped with an internal heater (just like the front one). The heater's job
is to get the O2 sensor to its operating temperature fast and keep it there thru' all engine operation
conditions (especially engine idle).
Since the O2 sensor has 4 wires sticking out of it, you and I need to know what wires do what to be
able to test it. So, in the table below you'll find the color of the wires of the engine wiring harness
oxygen sensor connector for the rear oxygen sensor.
One last thing you need to know: Checking for power and ground is done on the O2 sensor's engine
wiring harness connector. This connector has female terminals. Testing the heater's resistance is
done on the O2 sensor's connector itself... and this connector has male terminals.
Downstream Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 12) Pinout

(1998-2002 1.8L Toyota Corolla)
Pin
Wire Color
Description
PNK
Heater Ground (-)
BLK
Heater Power (+)
RED
O2 Signal
BRN
O2 Signal Ground
TEST 1: Verifying the Heater

Element is Getting Power and Ground
The rear oxygen sensor's heater needs battery power and ground to heat up the O2 sensor. So the
first thing we'll do, in our P0141 diagnostic, is verify that they're being fed to the rear O2 sensor's
heater.
The 2 wires that we need to check are:
The black (BLK) wire (of the engine wiring harness connector) is the one that feeds the
rear O2 sensor's heater with power (12 Volts).
The pink (PNK) wire (of the engine wiring harness connector) is the one that feeds the
heater with ground (this ground is provided by your Toyota Corolla's PCM).
CAUTION: Be careful and test the O2 sensor with a completely cold engine! The O2 sensor and the
exhaust pipe it's bolted into gets extremely hot and stays hot long after the engine has been turned
off. Be careful and take all necessary safety precautions! Also, don't trust the jack to keep your
Corolla up in the air -place it on jack stands!
IMPORTANT: The illustration of the connector above is of the connector on the oxygen sensor itself.
To check for power and ground you'll test the connector of the engine wiring harness sensor (which
has female terminals).
OK, this is what you'll need to do:
1.1
Locate the downstream oxygen sensor and disconnect it from its engine
wiring harness connector.
2.2
Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode and turn the key On but don't crank or
start the engine (this will power up the O2 sensor's engine wiring harness
connector).
3.3
With your multimeter test leads, probe the female terminals that correspond
to the black and pink wires of the connector.
Remember, you're testing the engine wiring harness O2 sensor connector (which
has female terminals) and not the connector of the O2 sensor itself.
4.4
With the Key On Engine Off (KOEO), your multimeter should register 10 to
12 Volts DC.
Let's take a look at your test results:
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts DC- Good, since this confirms that the rear
oxygen sensor's heater element is getting power and ground.
The next step is to verify that your Toyota Corolla's rear oxygen sensor heater's resistance is within
specification. For this resistance test, go to TEST 2: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts DC- The most likely cause is that power
is missing due to a blown fuse or a short (or open) in the wiring. You'll need to check the fuse in the
fuse box and make sure it's not blown.
If the fuse is OK, your next step is to find out why this battery power (or ground) is missing using a
wiring diagram.
TEST 2: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance
Now that you've checked/confirmed that power (12 Volts) and ground is reaching the heater, the last
thing we need to do is to measure it's resistance.
If the resistance is out of specification and you've verified that power and ground are reaching the
rear O2 sensor's heater... then you can conclude that it's fried and the whole sensor needs to be
replaced.
NOTE: Just a reminder that the oxygen sensor has to be completely cold before proceeding with this
test.... since the manual calls for the O2 sensor to be at room temperature for the resistance test.
OK, this is what you need to do:
1.1
Locate the O2 sensor terminals number 1 and number 2 of the O2 sensor
connector itself (not the engine wiring harness O2 connector).
2.2
With your multimeter in Ohms mode... probe terminals number 1 and
number 2 of the O2 sensor itself.
3.3
If all is OK, you should see about 11 to 16 s on your multimeter.
If the heater element is fried, your multimeter will show an open (usually indicated
by the letters OL) or a number over 10 K s.
CASE 1: Your Corolla's rear O2 heater's resistance is within factory specification- This test
result tells you that the rear O2's heater is OK.
CASE 2: Your multimeter showed an open circuit (OL)- This confirms that the rear O2's heater
element, on your Corolla, is fried. Replacing the rear oxygen sensor with a new one will solve the
P0141 trouble code lighting up the check engine light (CEL).
Taking into account that you have:
In TEST 1 you verified power and ground is reaching the sensor's heater.
-AND-
In this test you have confirmed that the heater element's resistance is out of
specification.
... You can correctly conclude that your 1.8L Toyota Corolla downstream O2 sensor needs to be
replaced with a new one.
Where to Buy the Oxygen Sensor and Save Some $$$

If the rear oxygen sensor's heater is fried, the following links will help you to comparison shop and
save money on a new oxygen sensor.
NOTE: If you're not sure if the above O2 sensor fit your particular 1.8L Toyota Corolla don't worry...
once you get to the site, they'll make sure the sensor switch is the right one, if not, they'll find you the
right one.
How To Test the TP Sensor

(1998-2002 1.8L Toyota)
October 13, 2013
Updated: January 10, 2015
Written by: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
Article Id: 516
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The throttle position sensor (TPS) on your 1998-2002 1.8L equipped Toyota Corolla can be easily
tested with just a multimeter.
Not only is this test fast and easy... but its also a very accurate test and will let you know if the TPS is
bad (or not).
By testing the throttle position sensor (TPS) with your multimeter, youll also be able to diagnose any
of the following TP sensor trouble codes that may be lighting up the check engine light (CEL) on your
Toyota:
P0120: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Circuit.
P0121: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit/Range Performance.
Here are the contents of this tutorial at a glance:
Basics of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
TEST 1: Checking the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Signal.
TEST 2: Checking Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Power.
TEST 3: Checking Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Ground.
Where to Buy the TPS and Save.

1.8L Toyota Tutorials.
Basics of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
The throttle position sensors job is to measure the angle of the throttle plate as you step on (and step
off) the accelerator pedal... since the throttle plate is connected to the accelerator pedal via the
accelerator cable.
Your Toyotas PCM receives this throttle angle info on the middle wire. The other two provide power
and ground (to the TPS).
In the table below, youll find a short description of what each wire does:
1.8L Toyota Corolla TPS Circuits

(2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007)
Pin
Wire Color
Description
YEL
5 Volts
BRN
Sensor Ground
LT GRN
Throttle Position Signal
TEST 1: Checking the

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Signal

The throttle position sensor (TPS) sends the throttle plate angle voltage signal (it creates as the
throttle plate opens and closes) on the LT GRN (light green) wire.
So, in this test section, youll tap into this LT GRN wire and manually open and close the throttle plate
to see if the TPS is creating an increasing/decreasing voltage signal.
If the TPS is bad on your Toyota Corolla... then the voltage output will stay stuck at one value no
matter how much you open or close the throttle plate.
If the TPS is OK, then the voltage output of the sensor will increase/decrease as you manually
open/close the throttle plate.
IMPORTANT: This is an on car test of the sensor and the throttle position sensor must remain
connected to its harness connector.
Here are the test steps:
1.1
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode and connect the red test lead to the
LT GRN wire of the TP sensor harness connector.
NOTE: The TP sensor connector needs to be connected to the TPS, so you'll
need to either back-probe the connector or use a wire piercing probe to get to the
signal inside the wire (to see what a wire piercing probe looks like: Wire Piercing
Probe Tool).
2.2
Ground the black multimeter lead directly on the battery negative (-) post.
At this point (with the throttle plate closed) your multimeter should read a voltage
between 0.3 to 1.0 volt DC.
3.3
Manually rotate the throttle.
You'll get the best results by opening and closing the throttle directly on the
throttle body instead of stepping on the accelerator pedal.
4.4
The multimeter should show an increasing voltage as you (or your helper)
open up the throttle.
With the throttle plate completely open, your multimeter should read: 3.2 to 4.9
Volts DC.
You'll get the best results by opening and closing the throttle directly on the
throttle body instead of stepping on the accelerator pedal.
5.5
The multimeter should show a decreasing voltage as you begin to close the
throttle.
6.6
Using a screwdriver's handle, gently tap the TP sensor as you open and
close the throttle and observer the multimeter.
The purpose (of tapping the TP sensor with the screwdriver's handle) is to see if
the TP sensor shows gap's in the voltage signal. Why? Because a good TP
sensor will show a continuous increasing or decreasing voltage signal even while
getting tapped by the screw-driver's handle.
CASE 1: The TP sensor signal's voltage increased and decreased smoothly and without gaps.
This tells you that the TPS on your Toyota Corolla is working and not defective.
This test result also tells you that:
1. Circuit #1 is providing power.
2. Circuit #2 is providing ground.
CASE 2: The TP sensor signal's voltage did not increase or decrease. In the majority of the
cases this TPS result tells you that the sensor is bad. But not always.
To be sure that the TPS is truly fried, we need to do 2 more tests. These tests involve checking that
the sensor is getting both power and ground. For the first of these two tests, go to TEST 2: Checking
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Power.
CASE 3: The TP sensor signal's voltage showed gaps in its voltage output as you tapped the
sensor with the screwdriver. If the gaps in the multimeters voltage readings only showed up when
you were tapping on the TPS (with the screwdrivers handle) then this test result tells you that the
TPS is bad and needs to be replaced.
TEST 2: Checking Throttle

Position Sensor (TPS) Power

Your Toyotas PCM feeds the throttle position sensor with 5 volts DC thru the YEL (yellow) wire.
This voltage can be easily verified with your multimeter and thats exactly what well do in this test
section.
NOTE: Youll be checking for this voltage on the sensors harness connector... but you should avoid
probing the connectors front terminals. Instead, you should back-probe the connector with the
appropriate tool or use a wire-piercing probe.
With the multimeter in Volts DC mode, this is what you need to do:
1.1
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the YEL wire of the TPS harness
connector
This is the wire that connects to the terminal labeled with the number 3.
2.2
Ground the black multimeter lead directly on the batterys negative
terminal.
3.3
Have a helper turn the key to the On position, but dont crank or start the
engine after the multimeter leads have been set up.
4.4
Your multimeter should register 4.5 to 5 volts DC if the YEL wire is feeding the
throttle post ion sensor (TPS) with power.
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 4.5 to 5 volts DC. This is the correct and expected test result.
Your next step is to make sure that the TPS is getting ground on the BRN (brown) wire. For this test,
go to: TEST 3: Checking Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Ground.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 4.5 to 5 volts DC. Re-check your multimeter lead
connections and re-test. If the multimeter still does not show the indicated voltage, then youve found
the reason why the TPS did not create a voltage signal in TEST 1.
Although its beyond the scope of this tutorial to find the reason why these 5 volts are missing... youll
need to get yourself a wiring diagram (for your particular mini-van) and check the continuity of this
wire between the TPS and the PCM.
TEST 3: Checking Throttle

Position Sensor (TPS) Ground
Now that youve confirmed that the throttle position sensor (TPS) is getting power on the YEL wire, in
this test section youll verify that the BRN (brown) wire of the TPS harness connector is providing
ground.
To confirm that this BRN wire is feeding ground, well do another voltage test with the multimeter.
NOTE: Be careful and do not short this wire to battery voltage, or youll fry your Toyotas PCM.
These are the test steps:
1.1
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the BRN wire of the TPS harness
connector
This is the wire that connects to the terminal labeled with the number 1.
2.2
Connect the red multimeter lead directly on the batterys positive (+)
terminal.
3.3
Have a helper turn the key to the On position, but dont crank or start the
engine after the multimeter leads have been set up.
4.4
Your multimeter should register 12 volts DC if the BRN wire is feeding the
throttle post ion sensor (TPS) with ground.
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 12 volts DC. This tells you that the TPS is getting ground. Now,
after having done TEST 1 and TEST 2... you can conclude that the TPS is bad and needs to be
replaced.
Heres why:
1. You have confimed that the TPS is not creating a throttle plate angle voltage signal
(TEST 1).
2. You have confirmed that it is getting power (TEST 2).
And in this test step you have confirmed that the throttle position sensor is getting ground... then you
can conclude that the reason its not creating a throttle plate angle signal is because it is defective
and needs to be replaced.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 12 volts DC. Re-check your multimeter lead
connections and re-test. If the multimeter still does not show the indicated voltage, then youve found
the reason why the TPS did not create a voltage signal in TEST 1.
Although its beyond the scope of this tutorial to find the reason why this ground is missing... youll
need to get yourself a wiring diagram (for your particular Toyota) and check the continuity of this wire
between the TPS and the PCM.
Front Oxygen Sensor Heater Test -P0135

January 10, 2015
Updated: February 13, 2015
Article Id: 648
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When trouble code P0135: Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit (Sensor #1) sets, it usually signals a
problem with the internal heater of the upstream oxygen sensor.
Thankfully, you can easily diagnose this trouble code without any expensive diagnostic test
equipment... all you need is a multimeter. In this tutorial, I'll show you the 3 basic tests you'll need to
perform to diagnose the upstream sensor as good or bad.
NOTE: This oxygen sensor is known by several different names:
1. Front Heated Oxygen (O2) Sensor.
2. HO2S 11.
3. Upstream Oxygen (O2) Sensor.
4. Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1.
5. Pre-Catalytic Converter O2 Sensor.
Here are the contents of this tutorial:
Circuit Descriptions of the Upstream Oxygen Sensor.
TEST 1: Verifying the Heater Element is Getting Power.
TEST 2: Verifying the Heater Element is Getting Ground.
TEST 3: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance.
Where to Buy the Oxygen Sensor and Save Some $$$.
More 1.8L Toyota Diagnostic Tutorials.
NOTE: If you need to test the rear oxygen sensor's heater (or trouble code: P0141), see this tutorial:
How to Test the Rear O2 Heater -P0141 (1998-2002 1.8L Corolla).
Circuit Descriptions of
the Upstream Oxygen Sensor
As you're already aware, your 1.8L Toyota Corolla uses 2 oxygen sensors. One is located located
before the catalytic converter and the second one is located after it.
Both sensor's are equipped with an internal heater and thus have 4 wires sticking out of them.
2 wires are for actual oxygen sensing part of the sensor assembly. The other 2 are to supply the
heater with power and ground.
Below, you'll find the color of the wires of the engine wiring harness oxygen sensor connector for
sensor HO2S 11:
Upstream Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 11) Pinout

Pin
Wire Color
Description
PNK
Heater Ground (-)
BLK
Heater Power (+)
WHT
O2 Signal
BRN
O2 Signal Ground
TEST 1: Verifying the Heater Element is Getting Power
To get our P0135 trouble code diagnostic under way, we're gonna' start by making sure that the
upstream O2 sensor's heater is getting power. Then, after confirming power, we're gonna' make sure
it's getting ground in TEST 2.
The black (BLK) wire, of the O2 sensor engine wiring harness connector, is the one that feeds power
to the front O2 sensor's heater element.
CAUTION: Perform all of the oxygen sensor tests with a completely cold engine. The O2 sensor gets
extremely hot and stays hot long after the engine has been turned off. Be careful and take all
necessary safety precautions! Also, if you raise your vehicle with a jack, place it on jack stands.
IMPORTANT: The illustration of the connector above is of the connector on the oxygen sensor itself.
To check for power, you need to test the BLK wire of the engine wiring harness sensor connector.
OK, this is what you'll need to do:
1.1
Locate the right front oxygen sensor and disconnect it from its engine wiring
harness connector.
2.2
Find the BLK wire of the engine wiring harness oxygen sensor connector.
3.3
With your multimeter in Volts DC mode, probe the BLK wire with the red
multimeter lead.
Ground the black multimeter lead directly on the battery's negative terminal.
If you don't own a multimeter or need to upgrade yours, take a look at my
recommendation here: Buying a Digital Multimeter for Automotive Diagnostic

Testing (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
4.4
With the Key On Engine Off (KOEO), the BLK wire should have 10 to 12
Volts DC, if all is OK with this power circuit.
CASE 1: Your multimeter confirms that the BLK wire has 10 to 12 Volts DC- This confirms that
the upstream oxygen sensor's heater element is getting power.
The next step is to make check that the BLK wire, of HO2S 11 engine wiring harness connector, is
feeding ground to the heater element. For this test, go to TEST 2: Verifying the Heater Element is
Getting Ground.
CASE 2: Your multimeter confirms that the BLK wire DOES NOT have 10 to 12 Volts DC- Recheck that you're testing the correct wire and that the Key is in the RUN position (but don't crank or
start the engine) and re-test.
If your multimeter still does not register 10 to 12 Volts DC... then you can conclude that HO2S 11
itself IS NOT BAD... since without power, the heater element won't work.
Although it's beyond the scope of this article... the next step is to find out why this battery power is
missing using a wiring diagram.
TEST 2: Verifying the Heater Element is Getting Ground
So far you've checked and confirmed that the upstream O2 sensor's heater is being fed battery
power by the BLK wire... now, in this test section, we need to make sure that it's being fed ground.
The wire that feeds the upstream O2 sensor's heater with ground is the pink PNK wire (of the engine
wiring harness upstream O2 sensor's electrical connector).
We'll check for ground by doing a simple multimeter voltage test very much like the one we did in
TEST 1.
NOTE: The illustration of the connector above is of the connector on the oxygen sensor itself. To
check for ground, you need to test the PNK wire of the engine wiring harness sensor connector.
These are the test steps:
1.1
Locate the PNK wire of the O2 sensor's engine wiring harness connector.
NOTE: Remember, you'll test the wire that's on the engine wiring harness
connector side and NOT on the O2 sensor itself.
2.2
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode and connect the red multimeter lead
to battery (+).
Probe the PNK wire of the O2 sensor's harness connector.
3.3
With the Key On, engine Off, this wire should have 10 to 12 Volts DC.
CASE 1: The multimeter showed 10 to 12 Volts DC- This tells you that ground IS NOT missing.
Now that you've made sure the upstream O2 sensor's heater element is getting both power and
ground... our next step is to check the heater element's resistance with your multimeter. Go to: TEST
3: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT show 10 to 12 Volts DC- Re-check all of your connections and
make sure you're testing the correct terminal.
If you still don't see 10 to 12 Volts DC, then the most likely cause of this missing ground is an open
in the PNK wire between the O2 sensor's engine wiring harness connector and the PCM (since your
Corolla's PCM is the one that provides this ground to the O2 sensor's heater element).
TEST 3: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance
OK, now that you've checked the basics (power and ground) we're gonna' check the O2 sensor's
heater element's resistance and see if it's within specification.
If your test shows that the O2 sensor's heater's resistance IS NOT within specification... then we can
conclude that the upstream sensor is fried and the cause of the P0135: Heated Oxygen Sensor
Circuit (Sensor #1) trouble code lighting up the check engine light.
NOTE: Just a reminder that the upstream oxygen sensor has to be completely cold before
proceeding with this test.... since the manual calls for the O2 sensor to be at room temperature for
the resistance test.
1.1
Locate the O2 sensor terminals number 1 and number 2 of the O2 sensor
connector itself (not the engine wiring harness O2 connector).
2.2
With your multimeter in Ohms mode... probe terminals number 1 and
number 2 of the O2 sensor itself.
3.3
If all is OK, you should see about 11 to 16 s on your multimeter.
If the heater element is fried, your multimeter will show an open (usually indicated
by the letters OL) or a number over 10 K s.
CASE 1: The O2 heater's resistance is within factory specification- This test result tells you that
the HO2S 11's heater is OK.
CASE 2: Your multimeter showed an open circuit (OL)- This confirms that the HO2S 11's heater
element is fried. Replacing the HO2S 11 with a new one will solve the P0135 trouble code lighting up
the check engine light (CEL).
Taking into account that you have:
Confirmed that the upstream O2 sensor's heater element is getting power (TEST 1).
-AND-
Confirmed that the upstream O2 sensor's heater element is getting ground (TEST 2).
-AND-
In this test you have confirmed that the heater element's resistance is out of
specification.
... You can correctly conclude that your 1.8L Toyota Corolla upstream O2 sensor needs to be
replaced with a new one.
How to Test the MAF Sensor

(Toyota Corolla 1.8L)
July 25, 2013
Updated: November 01, 2014
Article Id: 470
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Testing to see if the mass air flow (MAF) sensor on your Toyota 1.8L equipped Corolla is bad (or not)
isn't hard.
In this tutorial, I'm gonna' show you how to do it with just a multimeter and in step-by-step manner.
This tutorial covers 4 different 1.8L equipped Toyota models. To find out if this tutorial applies to you
specific vehicle, take a look at the box titled: Applies To: on the column on the right.
To help you navigate this article, here are its main points:
Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the MAF Sensor?
What Does the MAF Sensor Do?
TEST 1: Checking the MAF Sensor Power Circuit.
TEST 2: Checking the MAF Sensor ground Circuit.
TEST 3: Checking the MAF Sensor Signal.
Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor

The MAF sensor's job is to measure the amount of air entering the engine (when the engine is
running) and transmit this info to your Toyota's fuel injection computer. The computer then uses this
air flow measurement, along with other sensor inputs, to inject the correct amount of fuel into the
engine.
So when the MAF sensor goes BAD, you'll get the check engine light to shine nice and bright on your
Instrument Cluster.
You'll also see one or several of the following symptoms of a BAD MAF sensor:
1. Diagnostic trouble codes:
P0101: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor System Performance
P0102: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Input.
P0103: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Input.
2. BAD gas mileage.
3. Rough idle.
4. Lack of power on acceleration.
5. Black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
6. Won't pass the emissions test.
It's rare for the mass air flow (MAF) Sensor to go BAD and not leave a diagnostic trouble code... but
sometimes you'll get the MAF trouble code and the MAF is good. So, it's always a good idea to test it.
What Tools Do I Need to Test the MAF Sensor?

The cool thing about testing the MAF sensor on your Toyota is that you don't need any expensive or
exotic tools. Here's a basic list of tools you'll need:
1. A multimeter.
If you need to upgrade or buy a multimeter, check out my recommendation:

Abe's Multimeter Recommendation (found at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
2. Wire piercing probe.
Although this tool is not an absolute must, if you do buy one, you'll realize just
how easy it makes testing the voltages inside the wires.
If you need to see what this tool looks like, you can see it here: Wire Piercing
Probe.
A scan tool comes in handy... but you won't need it to use the testing info in this article.
What Does the MAF Sensor Do?
The MAF sensor is tasked with measuring the amount of air entering the engine at any given RPM.
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) then uses this measurement of air
flow to inject the correct amount of fuel.
To get into more specifics: The MAF sensor informs the PCM the amount of air flow entering the
engine by converting the measurement of air into a voltage signal that increases with more air flow
(as you accelerate the engine) or decreases as the engine breathes less air.
This is the key to understanding how to MAF sensor works and how to test it. I'll repeat it once more:
The more air the engine breathes, the bigger the voltage signal the MAF sensor creates. The less air
the engine breathes, the smaller the voltage signal the MAF sensor sends the PCM.
Heres what it looks like on a multimeter:
At an idle under 1000 RPM's the MAF sensor outputs about 1.1 Volts DC.
At about 1500 RPM's the math signal output is about 1.2 volts DC.
Ask about 3000 RPM's the MAF signal output is about 1.7 volts DC.
Remember, the important thing to know, is that at higher RPMs, when the engine is breathing more
air, the MAF signal (in voltage) is greater than when the engine is idling.
Now, in testing the MAF sensor, you wont be looking for a specific voltage number at a specific
RPM... but for crazy fluctuations in the signal that dont correspond to the amount of air entering the
engine or NO SIGNAL AT ALL.
These are the circuit descriptions of the mass air flow (MAF) sensor
MAF Sensor Connector Pin Out

Pin
Wire Color
Description
Black
Fused power (12 Volts)
Blue w/ White stripe
MAF sensor ground (PCM)
Green
MAF sensor signal
Yellow w/ Black stripe
Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor
Brown
Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor
As youre probably already aware, the MAF sensor on your Toyota has 5 wires coming out of its
connector. We only need to be concerned with three of the five wires... since the other 2 belong to the
intake air temperature (IAT) sensor that is part of the MAF sensor assembly.
Let's turn the page and get testing...
TEST 1: Checking the MAF Sensor Power Circuit
To get our MAF sensor diagnostic on its way, we'll make sure that it's getting power.
This power comes in the form of 12 volts and is provided with the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and
Key On Engine Running (KOER).
The wire that's responsible for feeding this voltage to your Toyota's MAF sensor is the wire labeled
with the number 1 in the photo in the image viewer.
NOTE: You can use a 12 Volt automotive test light or a multimeter to confirm wire #1 is feeding 10 to
12 volts to the MAF sensor. Although the test instructions below assume that you'll be using a
multimeter.
OK, this what you'll need to do:
1. Place the multimeter in Volts DC Mode.
2. Locate the wire identified with the number 1.

This is the Black wire.
Connect the RED multimeter lead to this Black wire using an appropriate tool
(like a Wire Piercing Probe).
3. Ground the BLACK lead of the multimeter directly on the battery negative (-) terminal.
4. Turn the key to the ON position (RUN position)
5. Your multimeter should register 10 to 12 Volts DC.
6. When done, turn the key Off and interpret your results below:
CASE 1: The multimeter recorded 10 to 12 Volts DC- So far so good, since this test result tells you
that your Toyota's mass air flow (MAF) sensor is getting power.
The next step is to make sure that the MAF sensor has a good ground in the wire labeled with the
number 2. For this test, go to TEST 2.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT record 10 to 12 Volts DC- Make sure that you're testing the
correct wire, that your connections are OK, and repeat the test.
If your multimeter still doesn't register between 10 to 12 volts, then you've found a problem that
needs to be corrected. Without these 10 to 12 volts, your Toyota's MAF sensor won't work.
TEST 2: Checking the MAF Sensor Ground Circuit
In TEST 1, you confirmed that your Toyota's MAF sensor is getting power. Now you need to make
sure that it's also getting ground.
This ground is provided by the wire labeled with the number 2 in the photo in the image viewer.
You can check this ground with a 12 Volt automotive test light or a multimeter. The test instructions
below assume that you'll be using a multimeter.
NOTE: This ground is provided directly by the PCM, so be careful and don't short this wire to battery
12 volts... or you'll fry your Toyota's PCM.
1. Place the multimeter in Volts DC Mode.

This is the Blue with White stripe wire.
Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to this Blue with White stripe wire
using an appropriate tool (like a Wire Piercing Probe).
3. Connect the RED lead of the multimeter directly on the battery positive terminal.
4. Your multimeter should immediately register 10 to 12 Volts DC.
Let's interpret your test results:
CASE 1: The multimeter recorded 10 to 12 Volts DC- This multimeter test result tells you that the
MAF sensor on your Toyota is getting a good ground.
The next step is to make sure that the MAF sensor is working and outputting a MAF signal on the
wire labeled with the number 3. For this test, go to TEST 3.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT record 10 to 12 Volts DC- Make sure that you're testing the
correct wire, that your connections are OK, and repeat the test.
If your multimeter still doesn't register voltage, then you've found a problem that needs to be
corrected. Without this ground, your Toyota's MAF sensor won't function.
Repairing this ground issue will get the MAF sensor back on its feet.
TEST 3: Checking the MAF Sensor Signal
If you've reached this point, then you've confirmed that your Toyota's MAF sensor is being fed with
both power and ground.
The next step is to test your MAF sensor in action and see if it's producing a viable MAF sensor
signal.
The wire that delivers this MAF voltage signal (to the PCM) is the one labeled with the number 3 in
the photo in the image viewer.
This what you'll need to do:
1. Place the multimeter in Volts DC mode.
This is the Green wire of the MAF sensor connector.

Connect the RED multimeter lead to this Green wire using an appropriate tool
(like a Wire Piercing Probe).
3. ground the BLACK lead of the multimeter directly on the battery negative (-) terminal.
4. Crank and start the engine.
5. If the engine is cold, let it warm up a bit so that the idle will settle down a bit.
6. Your multimeter should register:
Around 1.1 Volts DC at idle.
As you accelerate the engine, the voltage values should increase.
o At around 2000 RPMs your multimeter should register about 1 .
5 volts DC.
o At around 3000 RPMs your multimeter should register about 1 .
7 volts DC.
o NOTE: Remember these voltage numbers only serve as a
guideline. The actual numbers you MAF sensor outputs may be
a little different. What you're looking for is for the voltage to
increase as you rev up the engine.
When you release the accelerator, and the engine returns to idle, the voltage
value should return to somewhere close to 1.1 volts DC.
CASE 1: The multimeter registered the indicated voltage values when you accelerated and
decelerated the engine. This is the correct and expected test result and tells you that the mass air
flow (MAF) sensor is good.
If the mass air flow (MAF) sensor were bad, the voltage would have not gone up or down as you
revved the engine up and down.
There's no need to replace the MAF sensor, since this test confirms that it's functioning.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register the indicated voltage values when you accelerated
and decelerated the engine: -Make sure that you're testing the correct wire, that your connections are
OK, and repeat the test.
If you still don't see the voltage values going up when you accelerate the engine or go down when
you decelerate the engine, then you've got a BAD mass air flow (MAF) sensor on your hands.
Replace the MAF sensor.
MAF Test Summary

The key to successfully diagnosing your Toyota's mass air flow (MAF) sensor is knowing that as the
RPM's go up, so does the voltage signal that the sensor reports to the PCM on the wire labeled with
the number 3 (in the photos in the image viewer).
Also, when the MAF sensor on your Toyota fails, it usually fails in one of two ways:
1. It'll stop producing a voltage signal, even tho' it's getting power and ground.
2. Or, it'll produce a signal but this signal won't go up or down as you accelerate or
decelerate the engine.
I'm pointing this out, because you don't need to know a precise voltage number for a specific RPM. I
know, I know... it would be great to have a specific value to compare against... but trust me, you don't
need it.
If in TEST 3, the voltage values went up and down... the MAF on your 1.8L equipped Toyota vehicle
is OK.
If indeed the MAF sensor is fried on your vehicle, take a look at the MAF sensor offers below and
compare. You just might save a few bucks
How to Test the Fuel Pump In 2 Tests

(4.0L Jeep)
March 30, 2015
Updated: March 30, 2015
Article Id: 685
Page 1
Page 2
A bad fuel pump, that has stopped sending fuel to the fuel injectors, will cause a cranks but does not
start condition on your 4.0L equipped Jeep.
A fuel pump that is working, but not sending enough volume and therefore not producing enough fuel
pressure, will cause severe drive-ability issues.
The cool thing is that it's easier than a hot knife cutting through butter to test the fuel pump's
pressure and/or check a lack of fuel condition causing a no start condition.
In this tutorial I'll show you the 2 basic tests you'll need to do to check the condition of your Jeep's
fuel pump.
Contents of this tutorial at a quick glance:
Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pump.
TEST 1: Using Starting Fluid To Confirm Lack of Fuel.
TEST 2: Checking Fuel Pressure With a Fuel Pressure Gauge.
Where to Buy a Fuel Pressure Test Gauge.
Where to Buy the Fuel Pump and Save.
More 4.0L Jeep Diagnostic Tutorials.
Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pump

The fuel pump, in your 4.0L equipped Jeep, usually fails in one of two ways. It'll either stop pumping
fuel or it will pump a volume that's lower than normal.
Obviously, when the fuel pump completely fails... your 4.0L Jeep isn't gonna' start. In this type of
scenario, you'll see that:
1. The engine turns over but will not start.
2. The ignition coil pack is creating and distributing spark to all 6 cylinders.
3. The PCM will still pulse (activate) all 6 fuel injectors.
But when the fuel pump sends a lower than normal volume of fuel, your Jeep will start and run but
with engine performance problems. You'll probably see one or more of the following symptoms:
1. Rough idle.
2. Engine starts after extended cranking.
3. Lack of power when accelerating the vehicle down the road.
4. Back-fires thru' the intake manifold when accelerating your pickup or van down the
road.
Both of these conditions can be tested with a fuel pressure gauge. Alright, with this info under our
belts, let's get testing.
TEST 1: Using Starting Fluid To Confirm Lack of Fuel
The quick and dirty way to check to see if a lack of fuel is causing your 4.0L Jeep to no start is using
starting fluid (although it's not the most accurate way of diagnosing a bad fuel pump).
The rule of thumb is that if by spraying starting fluid your Jeep starts, even if momentarily... then this
tells you that fuel is missing from the equation (engine start equation: fuel+spark+air=combustion).
NOTE: To get an accurate test result from the starting fluid test, you need to first confirm that the
ignition coil pack is creating and delivering spark to all 6 cylinders. You can easily accomplish this by
attaching a spark tester to the spark plug wires and having a helper crank the engine (while you
observe to see if the spark tester sparks).
IMPORTANT: This is a very fast and easy test but you do have to take one very important safety
precaution and this is to reconnect the air intake duct after spraying starting fluid down the throttle
bore (although you don't have to fasten it). This will prevent any backfire, that might occur, from
scaring the heck out of you when cranking the engine.
This is what you have to do:
1.1
Remove the intake air duct from the throttle body. You don't have to
completely remove it, since you'll have to reconnect it in one of the next steps.
2.2
Open the throttle plate and spray starting fluid down the bore.
As a safety precaution reconnect the air duct after you have sprayed a good
squirt of starting fluid (but you don't have to tighten the air duct's hose clamp).
3.3
Crank the engine once the air duct is back on and you're clear of the engine
compartment.
4.4
You'll get one of two results with this test:
1.) The engine will start momentarily and after a few seconds will die or.
2.) The engine will only crank but not start at all.
OK, let's find out what your results mean:
CASE 1: If the engine started and ran for a few seconds: This test result tells you that the no start
problem is due to a lack of fuel.
Your next step is to check to see what the fuel pressure is with a fuel pressure test gauge. Go to:
TEST 2: Checking Fuel Pressure With a Fuel Pressure Gauge.
CASE 2: The engine did not start, not even momentarily: This usually means that a lack of fuel IS
NOT the reason your car is not starting.
Now, remember what I said about this test not being very accurate? Well, I suggest you do one more
test and this is to check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure test gauge. Go to: TEST 2: Checking
Fuel Pressure With a Fuel Pressure Gauge.
TEST 2: Checking Fuel

Pressure With a Fuel Pressure Gauge
The fuel pressure specification, from the Jeep repair manual, is 30 to 35 PSI. The only way this
specification can be checked is by using a fuel pressure gauge.
Checking the fuel pump with a fuel pressure gauge is the most accurate and professional way of
checking the state of the fuel pump (by the way, it's how it's done at any professional repair shop).
We can connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel system using the Schrader valve located on the
fuel injector rail (see photo above).
NOTE: If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, take a look at the section: Where to Buy a Fuel
Pressure Test Gauge.
OK, let's get started with this test:
1.1
Place a shop towel around the Schrader valve. The shop towel's job is to
absorb any fuel that may leak when doing step 2.
2.2
Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on your 4.0L Jeep's fuel
injector rail.
3.3
When ready, ask your helper to cycle the key on and off but don't crank the
engine while you observe the fuel pressure tester's gauge.
Check the connection at the Schrader valve for fuel leaks and if any tighten the
fuel pressure a bit more (by hand only) to eliminate them.
4.4
Your fuel pressure gauge should register: 30 to 45 PSI with the Key On
Engine Off (KOEO) if the fuel pump is OK.
Let's take a look at what your results mean:
CASE 1: If the fuel pressure gauge registered 0 PSI This confirms that the cause of your 4.0L
engine's no start problem is caused by a lack of fuel.
Now, I usually take one more precaution, before condemning the fuel pump as BAD... and this is to
check that the fuel pump is getting 12 Volts as the engine is cranking. This is just to make sure that
the fuel pump relay and fuse are OK and doing their job.
What you'll have to do to accomplish this is to attach a multimeter in Volts DC mode to the wire that
supplies this voltage to the fuel pump and while a helper cranks the engine... verify that the fuel pump
is getting this power. If the 12 Volts are being supplied to the fuel pump... you have now 100%
verified that the fuel pump is fried and needs to be replaced.
CASE 2: If the fuel pressure gauge registered 30 to 45 PSI: This fuel pressure gauge result let's
you know that the fuel pump is working and delivering enough fuel to the fuel injectors. The reason
your 4.0L equipped Jeep is not starting is due to another reason. The fuel pump is OK.
How To Test The TPS

(1993-1995 4.0L Grand Cherokee)
May 03, 2014
Updated: May 29, 2015
Article Id: 622
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
The throttle position sensor (TPS) on your 1993-1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee can be accurately tested
with a simple multimeter to find out if it's bad (or not).
Also, you don't have to remove it to test it and no scan tool is required for the test. In this tutorial I'll
show you just how.
Here are the contents of this tutorial at a glance:
Symptoms of a Bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
TEST 1: Testing the TPS Voltage Signal.
TEST 2: Verifying TPS Has Power.
TEST 3: Verifying TPS Has Ground.
Where to Buy Your TP Sensor and Save.
More Jeep 4.0L Test Tutorials.
To see the TP sensor's wiring diagram go to: 1993-1995 TP Sensor Wiring Diagram (Jeep Grand
Cherokee 4.0L).
For the TPS on 1996 and newer Grand Cherokee, go to: How to Test TPS Codes: P0121, P0122,
P0123 (1997-2001 Jeep 4.0L).
Symptoms of a Bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

The throttle position sensor (TPS) is one of the key components your Jeep's powertrain control
module (PCM) uses to calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject into the engine (among several
things). So, when the TPS fails, your Jeep is gonna' resent it and let you know right away something
is amiss.
When the throttle position sensor (TPS) fails, you'll see one or more of the following symptoms:
1. Check engine light (CEL) shining nice and bright.
2. Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) stored in the PCM's memory:
24: TP Sensor Voltage Low.
24: TP Sensor Voltage High.
3. Your Jeep Grand Cherokee fails the state mandated emissions test.
4. Bad gas mileage.
5. Hard start and/or extended cranking time (after shut off).
6. Black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
7. Hesitation when accelerating your Jeep down the road.
TEST 1: Testing the TPS Voltage Signal
To get your TPS diagnostic on its way, you first need to identify ORG/DK BLU (orange w/ dark blue
stripe) wire of the sensor's 3 wire connector.
The ORG/DK BLU wire is the middle wire of the connector and is the one that carries the throttle
angle voltage signal, the TPS creates (and it's the one we're gonna' tap into with a multimeter).
When the throttle position sensor (TPS) fails, it'll fail in one of two ways. It'll either stop producing a
throttle angle signal.. which usually means it'll stay stuck at a certain voltage value. Or the TPS will
fail intermittently.
The test below will help you check for both types of failures.
NOTE: To ensure the accuracy of your test, my suggestion is to test the throttle position sensor (TPS)
with a warmed up engine (but not running).
OK, let's start:
Part 1
1.1
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode and with the RED multimeter lead probe
the wire labeled with the number 2 in the illustration above. This is the circuit that
supplies the TP Signal to the PCM.
If you don't have a multimeter or need to upgrade yours, check out my
recommendation: Abe's Multimeter Recommendation (found at:
easyautodiagnostics.com).
NOTE: The throttle position sensor has to remain connected to its connector for
this test to work (this is where a wire piercing probe comes in handy to get to the
signal inside the wire. To see what one looks like, click here: Wire Piercing Probe
Tool.)
2.2
Ground the BLACK multimeter test lead on the battery negative terminal. Have
you helper turn the Key On, but don't start the engine (this will power up the TP
sensor).
3.3
Your multimeter should report .4 to .9 Volts DC. If your multimeter doesn't, don't
worry about it just yet, continue with the other steps.
Part 2
1.4
Now, slowly open the throttle (by hand and from the engine compartment) while
you observe the change in voltage numbers on your multimeter.
For this test result to be accurate, you need to open the throttle by hand and not
from inside the vehicle.
2.5
As the throttle opens, the voltage numbers will increase. This increase in voltage
should be smooth and without any gaps or skips. Once the throttle is wide open,
your multimeter should read somewhere between 3.5 to 4.5 Volts DC.
3.6
Now, slowly close the throttle. As the throttle is closing, you should see the
voltage decrease smoothly and without any gaps or skips, to the exact same
voltage you noticed in step 4.
Part 3
1.7
OK, now you'll need someone to help you lightly tap on the throttle position
sensor with the handle of a screw-driver (or something similar, and I want to
emphasize the words lightly tap') as you slowly open and close the throttle and
observe the multimeter.
If the TPS is bad, the tapping will cause the voltage numbers to skip or go blank.
If the TPS is OK, the tapping will have no effect on the voltage numbers.
2.8
Repeat step 7 several times to make sure of your multimeter test results.
CASE 1: Multimeter registered a smooth increase or decrease in voltage with no gaps. This
tells you several important things. First, that the TP sensor is working like it should. Lastly, that the TP
sensor is getting power (5 Volts DC) on the VIO/WHT wire and ground on the BLK/LT BLU wire of
the TP sensor connector.
No further testing is required.
CASE 2: Multimeter DID NOT register a smooth increase or decrease in voltage, in other words,
it stayed stuck in one voltage value as you opened and closed the throttle plate... then this tells you
that the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.
If I where in your shoes, I would still make sure that the TP sensor is getting both power and ground.
To check for power on the VIO/WHT wire, go to: TEST 2: Verifying TPS Has Power.
CASE 3: Multimeter DID NOT register any voltage, this test result doesn't condemn the TPS as
BAD just yet. Why? Because...
... the TPS may be missing either power or ground. So the next step is to check that the TPS is
getting power, go to TEST 2: Verifying TPS Has Power.
TEST 2: Verifying TPS Has Power
The VIO/WHT (violet w/ white stripe) wire is the one that feeds power (5 Volts DC) to the throttle
position sensor (TPS).
This power comes from the PCM. In other words, the other end of the VIO/WHT wire connects
directly to your Jeep Grand Cherokee's powertrain control module (PCM).
The VIO/WHT wire is the one that connects to terminal #3 in the photo in the image viewer.
NOTE: You can test for these 5 volts DC with the TP sensor connected or disconnected to the TPS. I
personally prefer to do this test with the TP sensor's connector unplugged.
This is what you'll need to do:
1.1
Place your multimeter's dial in volts DC mode.
2.2
Probe the number 3 wire, with the RED multimeter lead and an appropriate tool
(like a Wire-Piercing Probe). The throttle position sensor's connector can be
connected to the sensor or not when you probe this circuit.
IMPORTANT If you probe the front of the TPS harness connector, be careful and
don't damage the terminal. Damaging the terminal will require that you replace
the connector.
3.3
Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to a good and clean ground point on the
engine or directly on the negative (-) battery terminal.
4.4
When you've set up the test, have a helper turn the Key On Engine Off (KOEO).
5.5
Your multimeter should display 4.5 to 5 Volts on its screen. OK, now let's interpret
your test results below:
CASE 1: Multimeter registered 4.5 to 5 Volts. So far so good since this tells you that the throttle
position sensor (TPS) is getting power from the powertrain control module (PCM).
The next step (and the last test) is to check that the BLK/LT BLU wire (which connects to terminal
number 1 of the TP sensor's harness connector) is providing ground. For this test, go to TEST 3:
Verifying TPS Has Ground.
CASE 2: Multimeter DID NOT register 4.5 to 5 Volts. Double check all of your connections and
repeat the test. If your multimeter still doesn't register the 4.5 to 5 Volts DC...
... then you've just eliminated the TP sensor itself, on your Jeep, as bad. The two most likely reasons
for this are: 1) an open in the wire between the TP sensor's harness connector and the PCM's
harness connector or 2) the PCM may be fried (although a bad PCM is very rare).
Although it's beyond the scope of this article to test these two conditions, you have now eliminated
the throttle position sensor (TPS) on your Jeep as being the cause of the problem and/or the TPS
diagnostic trouble code (DTC) lighting up the Check Engine Light (CEL).
TEST 3: Verifying TPS Has Ground
So far, if you've reached this point you have confirmed that the sensor:
One: Is not creating an appropriate throttle position signal (TEST 1).

Two: That the sensor is getting power in the form of 5 Volts from the VIO/WHT wire (TEST 2).
As mentioned earlier, the throttle position sensor (TPS) needs power and ground to create a throttle
angle voltage signal the PCM can use to find out how much you're stepping on or off the accelerator
pedal. In this last test step, we're gonna' check that the BLK/LT BLU wire is providing ground to the
TP sensor.
OK, here are the test steps:
1.1
With your multimeter still in Volts DC mode from TEST 2.
2.2
Probe the wire labeled with the number 1 in the photos with the BLACK
multimeter lead. The TPS connector can be connected or not to the Sensor.
It's important that you do not probe the front of the connector or you run the risk
of damaging the terminal.
3.3
Now, with the RED multimeter lead, probe the battery positive (+) terminal.
4.4
Once again, when everything is ready, have your helper turn the Key to its ON
position but don't start the engine.
5.5
If this circuit is OK and the PCM is providing a good path to ground, your
multimeter will display 11 to 12 Volts.
CASE 1: Multimeter showed 11 to 12 Volts, this confirms that the PCM and the wire/circuit (that
supply this ground) are OK.
All three test have confirmed that:
1. The TPS is not providing a varying voltage signal when manually opening the throttle
plate.
2. The TPS is being fed 5 Volts DC.
3. The TPS is being fed ground.

Therefore, you can conclude that the TP Sensor is BAD and needs to be replaced (and that this will
solve the TP sensor code lighting up the check engine light).
CASE 2: Multimeter DID NOT show 11 to 12 Volts. Double check that you're testing the correct TP
sensor harness terminal wire and repeat the test. If your multimeter still doesn't show the indicated
voltage...
...then this indicates a problem with either your Jeep's PCM (internal fault/problem) or an open in the
wire between the TPS harness connector and the PCM's harness connector
Although testing these two conditions are beyond the scope of this article, you have now eliminated
the throttle position sensor (TPS) on your Jeep as being the cause of the problem and/or the TPS
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) lighting up the Check Engine Light (CEL). You can use the wiring
diagram found in the following article to check continuity of the TP sensor circuits:
1993-1995 TP Sensor Wiring Diagram (Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L).
25-pin data link connector diagnostics

You will require a PicoScope to perform this test. A list of suitable accessories can be found at the bottom of this
page.
Figure 1 - Connection Diagram
Figure 2 - Connecting 'TEN' to 'GND'.
How to perform the test

Please note that this sequence is based on the 25-pin DLC fitted to Mazda variants as listed in the Fault
Code Table.
1. Plug one BNC test lead into Channel A of the oscilloscope.
2. Connect a Back-pinning Probe to the colored plug on the BNC test lead, and probe it into the 'B+'
terminal on the DLC socket.
3. Connect another Back-pinning Probe to the black plug on the BNC test lead and probe it into the 'FEN'
terminal on the DLC Socket as shown in Figure 1.
4. Using a suitable piece of insulated wire, connect one end to the DLC socket into the 'TEN' terminal and
connect the other end to the 'GND' terminal.
5. Press the spacebar on the PC to start the scope displaying live data.
6. Switch on the vehicle ignition and follow the instructions below. The codes will then appear on the screen, as
shown below.
Accessing fault codes from the PCM memory

Once the scope has been correctly connected to the 25-pin DLC socket:
1. Switch the ignition on.
2. The codes will now be displayed on the screen. Once the first code is repeated, this indicates all codes have
been read from the PCM.
3. Switch ignition off.
4. Analyze any codes retrieved from PCM.
Erasing fault codes from the PCM memory

1. Ensure the ignition is switched off.
2. Disconnect the battery earth cable for at least 30 seconds.
3. Depress the brake pedal for at least 20 seconds (total 50 seconds).
4. Reconnect the battery earth cable.
5. Repeat the code reading sequence to ensure all DTCs have been removed from the memory of the PCM.
WARNING: Disconnecting the battery may erase the memory from ancillary devices such as clocks and radios.
Important Note: This sequence is for the Mazda variants listed in the Fault Code Table. For other manufacturers,
check if the vehicle is equipped with a 25-pin DLC connector and also check to see if the above test can be carried
out. Serious damage to the PCM will occur if the test is carried out on a vehicle that does not support the above test
method. Refer to the manufacturer's wiring and technical information for further support.
Example waveforms
Example waveform 1 - No fault codes present (P000)
Example waveform 2 - Fault codes present (P0110)
Exaqmple waveform 3 - Multiple fault codes present (P0100 - P0110 - P0120)
Waveform notes
How to interpret the codes from the example waveforms
Figure 3 - How to read fault codes
The sequence begins with a long pulse, indicating the start of the code-reading sequence from the PCM. The
example waveforms show codes in the 4-digit EOBD/OBDII format, but other variants of Mazda give a two-digit code
flash sequence. Consult the manufacturer's technical information for two-digit codes.
The 4-digit code in Code Sequence 1 is indicated by 4 groups of signals.
Digit 1
The first digit is a single, long pulse (indicated by a white arrow)
As there is no short pulse, the first digit is a 0.
Digit 2
Digit 2 consists of a long pulse (white arrow) followed by a short pulse (black arrow).
This pattern indicates that the second digit is a 1.
Digit 3
Digit 3 is again just a single long pulse, indicated by a white arrow.
This pattern indicates another 0.
Digit 4
Digit 4 is also a single long pulse (indicated by another white arrow).
This digit is another 0.
Putting these four digits together gives Code 0100, which is the EOBD Code for "Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor circuit malfunction".
Example waveform 1
There are no pulses after the start pulse, indicating that all digits are 0. The table below tells us that:
Code P0000 = EOBD Code for No Fault Found.
Therefore there are no fault codes present on the vehicle.
Example waveform 2
There is one code that is repeated as it is the only code stored in the PCM. The table below tells us that:
Code P0110 = EOBD Code for Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor.
Example waveform 3
The PCM is signalling 3 codes. The table below tells us that:
Code P0100 = EOBD Code for Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor circuit malfunction.
Code P0110 = EOBD Code for Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor.
Code P0120 = EOBD Code for Thottle Position (TP) sensor A/Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A circuit
malfunction.
Notes
A long pulse followed by 2 short pulses indicates a '2', as shown in example waveform 3. Higher digits are
obtained by adding more short pulses.
Each 4-digit code is separated from the next by an 8-second delay to allow you to tell them apart.
If only one code is stored in the PCM, then this code will be continuously repeated as a single fault code.
If more than one code is stored in the PCM, all codes will be read and then repeated untill the sequence is
stopped.
Figure 4 - Engine management control
Technical information
The engine management system is constantly monitored by the PCM as the engine is running under different loads
and conditions. All of the input and the output signals are monitored at all times. This is done so that the PCM can
keep control of the engine and maintain optimum running conditions at all times. The PCM checks the values from
the sensors and compares them with the information stored in the ROM (Read Only Memory) of the PCM. Based on
the information stored, the PCM changes the commands to the actuators to alter any parameters to keep optimum
running.
While the PCM is reading from ROM and reading all the signals from the sensors and actuators, thus monitoring the
operating parameters of the engine, it is also monitoring the tolerances and ranges of each sensor and actuator to
see if they are working correctly. When the PCM sees that a component or tolerance is breached then it will initiate a
DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) which is stored in the RAM section of the PCM, often known as KAM (Keep Alive
Memory), or in the EEPROM (Electronically Eraseable Programmable Read Only Memory). The DTC is then stored
until action is taken: the fault is rectified on a self-check system, or an instruction is sent to the PCM to clear the
DTC and the system is rechecked to ensure that it is operating correctly again.
There are a number of different methods for accessing fault codes depending on the system used on the vehicle EOBD, OBD I or OBD II:
Using the MIL Light on the Dashboard to flash the code in a given sequence.
Connecting a LED, test lamp or scope to a DLC connector and observing the long and short flashes
(pulses).
Connecting a scan tool to the DLC connector and communicating with the PCM directly.
OBD-I (On-Board Diagnostics I)

This legislation requires that vehicles manufactured from 1988 onwards be equipped with a system that is controlled
electronically by a computer and is capable of monitoring itself during operation. Any malfunction in the system that
leads to an effect in the exhaust emissions has to illuminate a warning light on the dashboard and present a stored
DTC. The DTC must accessible and readable with the use of on-board facilities such as Flash Code, LED, Test
Lamp, Oscilloscope.
OBD-II
The legislation that supports OBD-II applies to vehicles that are manufactured from 1994 onwards (Spark Ignition
Engines) and 1996 onwards (Compression Ignition Engines). The main features fitted and that have to be monitored
constantly are as follows:
Internal Combustion
Catalytic Converter
Levels of Oxygen (Oxygen Sensors)
Secondary Air System
Fuel Evaporative Control
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
The key features for DTCs are as follows:

1. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has to be provided for warning the driver that a fault is present with an
additional flashing function.
2. The DTCs must be read from the PCM using a scan tool through the 16-Pin DLC Connector
3. All emission-related components have to be monitored by the PCM for the operation of the engine as well as
monitoring the components for defects.
4. When a fault occurs, the system has to be capable of logging perfomance data in the form of a freeze frame.
5. The codes must be formatted to a universal format so that all scan tools and diagnostic equipment can read
them and the user can easily interpret them. See Figure 5.
CODE PART
POSSIBLE ARRANGEMENT
MEANING
BODY Control Code
CHASSIS Control Code
POWERTRAIN Control Code OBD II
UNDEFINED - Used for Network Systems, CAN Bus
Fault Code given under the SAE testing guidelines
Fault Code given under the Manufacturer's guidelines
CODE PART
POSSIBLE ARRANGEMENT
MEANING
Fault Code given under the Manufacturer's guidelines
Reverse Fault Code
Fuel and Air Measurement System
Fuel and Air Measurement System
Ignition System
Exhaust Control System
Engine Speed and Idling Control System
PCM, Computer Control & Output Signals
Transmission Control Systems
01 to 99
Assignment of System Components
Figure 5 - Structure of Standard Fault Codes
Mass Air Flow Sensor Removal, Cleaning & Installation

A Fix For A Missing Engine
Many owners have experienced "bogging" or "missing" or just unsteady performance in their 4.0
engine and have been frustrated by lots of expensive "non-fixes". After riding on a plane next to a
manufacturing trainer from a company that builds OEM replacement auto electrical components for
places like AutoZone and CarQuest, Jack Lobdell tried his tip. The trainer says that Ford has these
problems more than other makes and the 4.0 engine seems to be more susceptible to the problem
than other Ford engines.
It seems that a "missing" engine culprit is actually the computer's sensor inside the Mass Air Flow
Sensor (MAF). It eventually just gets a little dirty or builds up its own patina in the filament wires. A
dirty or slightly patinated filament will send the wrong air reading to the computer, saying it is getting
more air than it really is and the computer will tell the EFI to send in the wrong mix of fuel, thus, the
bogging. The patina seems to form faster if you live in a damp climate. Jack Lobdell lives in New
Mexico, so his went 82K before it developed a small "flat idle spot". It would run just fine but the idle
began to drop every few revs from 700 to 500. No big deal.
If you have had bogging or missing or idle spots, about every 25K miles plan on this quick cleaning
job:
Cleaning:
When your engine is cool, remove the wiring clip from the side of the black plastic sensor part of the
MAF aluminum body. To remove the MAF interior sensor wire, you will need a Torx Bit T20
screwdriver or screwdriver bit for a power screwdriver. Remove the two security star-head screws
and carefully remove the sensor. You will see the two sensor filaments, they look almost like the
filaments on a light bulb. Carefully spray the filaments with Electrical Cleaner (Preferably MAF
Cleaner) and let it dry thoroughly. Carefully wipe the aluminum mount surface of the MAF body if
there is any dust there, but be careful not to get dust in the mount hole. When the sensor is dry,
replace the sensor back in the MAF body and secure with the security star-head screws. These
don't need to be torqued down, just simply hand tight. Replace the wiring clip. Then start up your
engine. You should have solved any bogging or missing problems. Jack's flat idle spot is ancient
history.
You'll need to remove these Torx head screws (A)
This is what you'll be cleaning (B)
T-20 Torx Bit
This is a CRC electric contact type

cleaner just for MAF's with a Petroleum
Distillate/Alcohol base
Note: DO NOT clean your MAF with

carb or brake cleaner.
Operation:
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor directly measures the amount of the air flowing into the engine.
The sensor is mounted between the air cleaner assembly and the air cleaner outlet tube.
The sensor utilizes a hot wire sensing element to measure the amount of air entering the engine.
The sensor does this by sending a signal, generated by the sensor when the incoming air cools the
hot wire down, to the PCM. The signal is used by the PCM to calculate the injector pulse width,
which controls the air/fuel ratio in the engine. The sensor and plastic housing are integral and must
be replaced if found to be defective.
(1) Sensor
The sensing element (hot wire) is a1 thin platinum wire wound on a ceramic bobbin and coated with
glass. This hot wire is maintained at 392F (200C) above the ambient temperature as measured by
a constant "cold wire''.
Testing:
With the engine running at idle, use a DVOM to verify there is at least 10.5 volts between terminals
A and B of the MAF sensor connector. This indicates the power input to the sensor is correct. Then,
measure the voltage between MAF sensor connector terminals C and D. If the reading is
approximately 0.34-1.96 volts, the sensor is functioning properly.
Removal:
Caution - The mass air flow sensor hot wire sensing element and housing are calibrated as a unit
and must be serviced as a complete assembly. Do not damage the sensing element or possible
failure of the sensor may occur.
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
To remove the MAF sensor, first disconnect the wire harness plug ...
... then remove the air cleaner-to-throttle body air tube

2) Disengage the wiring harness connector from the MAF sensor, and if necessary, the IAT sensor.
3) Loosen the engine air cleaner outlet tube clamps, then remove the tube from the engine.
4) Remove the MAF sensor from the air cleaner assembly by disengaging the retaining clips.
Remove the four MAF sensor attaching screws ...
... then remove the sensor from the air cleaner housing
Installation:
1) Install the MAF sensor to the air cleaner assembly and ensure that the retaining clips are fully
engaged.
2) Install the air cleaner outlet tube, then tighten the outlet tube clamps until snug.
3) Attach the engine wiring harness connectors to the IAT and MAF sensors.
4) Connect the negative battery cable.
Note:
Dirty MAF Causing ping under load - My 1994 4.0 idled fine, but a dirty MAF was the cause of a
ping under load. this page had led me to believe that if my idle was okay then the MAF was not a
problem, hence it took me a long time to get to the MAF after messing with a bunch of other stuff.
Enough people say that the MAF was the source of their ping that maybe a little re-phrasing on this
page would make it a little more clear. ~ Eric Steinberg
Update - This page was updated 12/2007 to replace the use of carburetor cleaner with electrical
cleaner.
Procedures for the Automotive Oxygen Sensor

Testing
Click to Get Book Here...
By Mandy Concepcion
The O2 sensor measures the oxygen
content of the exhaust. The O2 sensors
sensing ability comes about by
producing a small voltage proportionate
to the exhaust oxygen content. In other
words, if the oxygen content is low it
produces a high voltage (0.90 Volts Rich mixture) and if the oxygen content
is high it produces a low voltage (0.10
Volts - Lean mixture). Although
theoretically the O2 sensor should cycle
between 0.00 volts and 1.00 volts, in
reality it cycles between 0.10 volts and 0.90 volts.
A GM O2 sensor signal stuck at 450 mV is an indication of an open O2 sensor circuit (signal wire) or
faulty O2 signal ground. The 450 mV value (GM) is called a bias voltage and it is not the same for all
manufacturers. Some manufacturers employ a dedicated O2 sensor ground. Such a ground lead is
attached to the engine block or chassis and feeds an ECM O2 ground pin only. The O2 circuit is then
grounded through the inside of the ECM electronic board by this ground wire. A loss of this ground
would also put the O2 sensor signal at around 450 mV, which also makes it look like an open circuit.
The same holds true for Chrysler, but these use a different O2 bias voltage, which is usually 2.00 to
4.00 volts.
1) A few key issues are very important in the analysis of O2 sensor signals.
2) An O2 sensor will cycle between 0.10 to 0.90 or almost 1 volt.
3) An O2 sensor has to reach the 0.8x Volts amplitude mark while at full operation.
4) An O2 sensor also has to reach the 0.1x Volts amplitude mark while at full operation.
5) Full operation means the engine is fully warmed up, O2 sensor above the 600 deg. F. operating
temperature, and no fuel or mechanical problems present.
6) The O2 sensor must cycle at least once per second, which would show 3 cross counts on the scan
tool PID.
7) Silicone is the leading cause of O2 contamination.
8) It is easier for an O2 sensor to go from rich to lean than vise-versa.
9) O2 sensors tend to fail on rich bias. In other words, they tend to shift their cycling to the upper side
or rich side of the voltage scale.
10) Contrary to what many people think, an O2 sensor WILL NOT cycle by itself. The O2 sensor cycle
is a direct result of the ECM response to the changes in the mixture.
11) Any time the O2 cycles and crosses the 0.450 volts mark, the system is in CLOSE-LOOP.
12) Even though an O2 sensor is cycling and crossing 0.450 volts (ECM in close loop) it DOES NOT
mean that it is working properly.
13) O2 sensor operation is extremely important not only to keep HC & CO emissions low but also to
the NOx as well.
14) Proper O2 sensor cycling will determine the catalytic converters efficiency. The catalytic
converter needs the O2 sensor cycling at its proper amplitude and frequency for it to function at its
maximum efficiency.
15) An O2 sensor with a high voltage reading does not necessarily mean that the mixture is rich or
high in fuel content. An EGR valve problem will send the O2 signal high as well.
A big misconception among technicians trying to understand O2 sensors is that they cycle by
themselves. The O2 sensor just reads oxygen content in the exhaust, THATS IT. Excess oxygen in
the form of regular ambient air will send the O2 sensor voltage signal low (under 0.450 volts) and lack
of it will send the voltage signal high (over 0.450 volts). A stuck open EGR valve will create a lack of
oxygen in the exhaust, since the re-circulating exhaust has all its oxygen already burnt . The ECM
sometimes uses the O2 sensor to check for proper EGR operation and sets a code if necessary. So,
be aware of the fact that a vehicle might be running lean because the ECM sees a rich O2 signal due
to a defective (stuck open) EGR valve. Since the ECM sees a rich signal, it will try to correct with a
lean command and try to lower the O2 sensors high voltage signal.
CONDITION THAT AFFECT OPERATION
NOTE: WHEN PERFORMING O2 SENSOR CHECKS, IT IS IMPORTANT TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS AT IDLE AND 2000 RPM. BE
AWARE THAT O2 SENSOR PRE-CONDITIONING IS IMPORTANT, EVEN ON THE NEWER STYLED HEATED O2 SENSORS. PRECONDITION THE O2 SENSOR BY RAISING THE ENGINE SPEED TO 2000 RPM FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS OR SO. THE O2
SENSOR HAS TO BE ABOVE 600 F. TO BE ABLE TO OPERATE PROPERLY. LONG PERIODS OF IDLE TIME CAN RENDER A
NON-HEATED OR OLDER O2 SENSOR TOO COLD FOR IT TO FUNCTION AT ALL. AT THE SAME TIME, DO NOT TRY TO
FORCE A HEATED O2 SENSOR INTO OPERATION. AN O2 SENSOR WITH A FAULTY HEATER WILL GO INTO CLOSED-LOOP
AFTER A GOOD WARM-UP SESSION.
After an engine has ran through its warm up period (O2 sensor has no effect on engine operation
while the engine is cold), the ECM then looks for the O2 value. The 0.450 volts mark is considered
almost universally as the midway point or crossover point for O2 sensor operation. If the signal is on
the rich side (above 0.45 volts), then the ECM will answer with a lean command (reducing injector
pulsation), or if the signal is on the lean side (below 0.45 volts) then the ECM will answer with a rich
command (increasing injector pulsation). The amount of injector pulse correction is proportional to the
voltage seen by the ECM at the O2 sensor signal wire. The higher the voltage the more the ECM
reduces on-time to the injector. The lower the voltage the more the ECM increases the injector ontime. The ECM is constantly doing exactly just that, slightly increasing and decreasing injector
pulsation. The constant adjustment is what gives the O2 sensor signal the switching appearance
(sine wave) on the scope screen.
NOTE: The ECMs fuel pulse corrections performed constantly to the injector signal is called SHORT
TERM FUEL TRIM ( GM called it INTEGRATOR ) and LONG TERM FUEL TRIM ( GM called it
BLOCK LEARN ) on the scanner. FUEL TRIMS is the systems deviation of the BASE-INJECTION
pulse. Analyzing LTFT and STFT is a great way to know a particular vehicles fuel consumption trend
or how well that vehicle has been performing with regards to fuel control. STFT and LTFT is the first
thing to look for when assessing fuel control problems.
The fact that the O2 sensor signal is switching rich-lean-rich-lean also reveals that the ECM is
controlling the injector pulsation and therefore that the system is in close loop mode. An ECM in full
control (O2 sensor cycling) is said to be in close loop because of the close-circuit action of O2
sensor-to ECM-to injector pulse control then to O2 sensor and back to the ECM. The ECM must be in
control at all times except during warm up, WOT, power enrichment, and deceleration mode.
The O2 sensor not only has to cycle, it also has to cycle fast enough (proper frequency) and wide
enough (proper amplitude). At least one cycle per second ( 1 Hz ) must be seen at the signal wire in
order for the O2 to be considered good (not lazy). A one cycle per second will make the scope trace
go across the 0.450 volts mark approximately 3 times, which the ECM recognizes as 3 cross counts.
A slow O2 sensor will have a damaging effect on the catalytic converter and release excessive
amounts of emissions to the atmosphere.
A cycle are the complete rich and lean crests of the O2 sensor signal, while crossing the 0.45 voltage
point. Proper amplitude refers to the O2 sensors ability to reach full rich ( 0.90 volts ) and full lean
( 0.10 volts ) when cycling. The higher the voltage seen at the O2 signal line the more the ECM
reduces pulsation to the injectors. The lower the voltage seen at the O2 signal line the more the ECM
increases injector pulsation. This is the reason why an O2 sensor that is not reading the mixture
properly, at full amplitude and frequency, will actually misguide the ECM into a wrong fuel control
pattern. Once the O2 sensor has reached its correct temperature of 600 F, look for an O2 signal
cycle with the correct amplitude and frequency and it will surely indicate a perfectly operating O2
sensor.
COMPONENT TESTING
(click play button to show video)

NOTE: On early OBD II systems, the post catalytic converter O2 sensor has no effect on fuel control.
The post catalytic O2 sensor was originally responsible for only monitoring catalytic converter
efficiency. On most systems, the post converter O2 sensor signal should never mimic or follow the
pre-cat O2 signal. That would indicate a defective or low oxygen storage capability at the converter .
On early OBD II systems, the post-cat O2 sensor should show little or no voltage fluctuations on a
scope waveform, since all the mixture fluctuations are being absorbed by the catalytic converter.
Stating around model year 1999, a new type of converter came on the market, called Low Oxygen
Storage Converter or LOC. With an LOC, the pre and post O2 sensors cycle at the same rate. These
converters are tested by measuring the lag-time between the two signals. A further development of
this system is that the post converter signal is also used for A/F correction, but to a less extent.
These simple steps should be followed whenever testing O2 sensors.
Scan the vehicle for any O2 sensor codes and analyze the data stream PID. O2 sensor voltage should cycle normally
with proper amplitude and frequency. An O2 sensor stuck at a fixed bias voltage is an indication of an open O2 circuit
or lack of O2 sensor (dedicated) ground. If possible use a graphing multi-meter to analyze the O2 sensor data to
determine any possible problems.
While reading the scan values, goose the throttle and observe for O2 sensor minimum and maximum values (0.1x volts
to 0.9x volts). Although this is not a conclusive evidence of correct O2 sensor operation, it serves as a preliminary
indication of proper operation.
Some automotive manufacturers employ a dedicated O2 sensor ground wire that is grounded somewhere at the engine
block or chassis. A loss or rupture of this ground wire will render the O2 sensor useless. This ground wire feeds only
the ECMs O2 sensor circuit. The main engine ground does not feed this type of O2 sensor circuit.
Verify the O2 sensor wire integrity. Most O2 sensors are biased and an open signal wire will give a reading of whatever
the bias voltage is. Later model Jeep/Chrysler O2 circuits tend to be biased at around 2 or 4 volts, therefore, a constant
reading of around 2 or 4 volts on a Chrysler is also an indication of an open circuit. In many of these cases, the ECM
will put an O2 sensor High Voltage code.
Finally, verify for correct O2 sensor operation with a scope or graphing multi-meter. Check for proper amplitude and
frequency. Remember that the scanner O2 sensor readings are only interpreted values and may not show the real
voltage reading. This is the reason for doing this final manual test.
OXYGEN SENSOR DIAGNOSIS

O2 sensors are amazingly rugged considering the operating environment they live in. But O2 sensors
do wear out and eventually have to be replaced.
The performance of the O2 sensor tends to diminish with age as contaminants accumulate on the
sensor tip and gradually reduce its ability to produce voltage. This kind of deterioration can be caused
by a variety of substances that find their way into the exhaust such as lead, silicone, sulfur, oil ash
and even some fuel additives. The sensor can also be damaged by environmental factors such as
water, splash from road salt, oil and dirt.
As the sensor ages and becomes sluggish, the time it takes to react to changes in the air/fuel mixture
slows down which causes emissions to go up. This happens because the flip-flopping of the fuel
mixture is slowed down which reduces converter efficiency. The effect is more noticeable on engines
with multiport fuel injection (MFI) than electronic carburetion or throttle body injection because the
fuel ratio changes much more rapidly on MFI applications.
If the sensor dies altogether, the result can be a fixed, rich fuel mixture. Default on most fuel injected
applications is mid-range after three minutes. This causes a big jump in fuel consumption as well as
emissions. And if the converter overheats because of the rich mixture, it may suffer damage.
One EPA study found that 70% of the vehicles that failed an I/M 240 emissions test needed a new O2
sensor.
Most O2 sensor problems will cause the OBD II system to set one or more diagnostic trouble codes
(DTCs) and turn on the Check Engine light. These are the OBD codes associated with O2 sensor
faults:

P0033....Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit
P0034....Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Low
P0035....Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit High
P0130....O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0147....O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor
3
If an O2 sensor is marginally sluggish or is slightly
biased rich or lean, it may not set a fault code.
The only way to know if the O2 sensor is
functioning normally is to check its
responsiveness to changes in the air/fuel mixture.
You can read the O2 sensor's voltage output with
a scan tool or digital voltmeter, but the transitions
are hard to see because the numbers jump
around so much. The best way to observe O2
sensor output voltage changes is with a Digital
Storage Oscilloscope (DSO). A scope will display
the sensor voltage output as a wavy line that
shows both it's amplitude (minimum and
maximum voltage) as well as its frequency (transition rate from rich to lean).
A good O2 sensor should produce an oscillating waveform at idle that makes voltage transitions from
near minimum (0.1 v) to near maximum (0.9v). Making the fuel mixture artificially rich by feeding
propane into the intake manifold should cause the sensor to respond almost immediately (within 100
milliseconds) and go to maximum (0.9v) output. Creating a lean mixture by opening a vacuum line
should cause the sensor output to drop to its minimum (0.1v) value. If the sensor does not flip-flop
back and forth quickly enough, it may indicate a need for replacement.
If the O2 sensor circuit opens, shorts or goes out of range, it may set a fault code and illuminate the
Check Engine or Malfunction Indicator Lamp. If additional diagnosis reveals the sensor is defective,
replacement is required. But many O2 sensors that are badly degraded continue to work well enough
not to set a fault code, but not well enough to prevent an increase in emissions and fuel consumption.
The absence of a fault code or warning lamp, therefore, does not mean the O2 sensor is functioning
properly. The sensor may be lazy, or biased rich or lean.
A company called Lenehan Research makes a handheld O2 sensor tester that checks the response
time of the O2 sensor to show if it is good or bad. The tester requires the oxygen sensor to jump from
below 175mV to above 800mV in less than 100mS when the throttle is snapped. If the sensor does
not respond quickly enough it fails the test. The tester also shows closed loop operation on a fast,
ultra-bright, colored 10 LED display, and tests the PCM control of the fuel feedback control system.
OXYGEN SENSOR REPLACEMENT
Any O2 sensor that is defective obviously needs to be replaced. But there may also be benefits to
replacing the O2 sensor periodically for preventative maintenance. Replacing an aging O2 sensor
that has become sluggish can restore peak fuel efficiency, minimize exhaust emissions and prolong
the life
of the
converter.
Unheated 1 or 2 wire wire O2 sensors on 1976 through early 1990s vehicles can be replaced every
30,000 to 50,000 miles. Heated 3 and 4-wire O2 sensors on mid-1980s through mid-1990s
applications can be changed every 60,000 miles. On OBD II equipped vehicles (1996 & up), a
replacement interval of 100,000 miles can be recommended.
The oxygen sensor can be removed from the exhaust manifold using a special oxygen sensor socket
(which has a cutout to clear the wires), or a 22mm socket. The sensor will come out easier if the
engine is slightly warm but not hot to the touch. Place the socket over the sensor and turn
counterclockwise to loosen it. If it is frozen, apply penetrating oil and heat around the base of the
sensor.
When installing a new "direct fit" or OEM oxygen sensor, the wiring connector on the new sensor will
plug into the connector with no modifications needed. But if you are installing a "universal" oxygen
sensor, the original wiring connector will have to be cut off so the wires on the new sensor can be
spliced to the wires that went to the connector. With 4-wire sensors, one wire is the signal wire, one is
ground, and the other two are for the heater circuit. The wires are color coded, but the colors on the
universal sensor probably won't match those on the original sensor. See the chart below from the
color coding used on various brands of oxygen sensors:
Typical oxygen sensor wiring color codes.
Oxygen Sensor Q & A

How many oxygen sensors are on today's engines?
It depends on the model year and type of engine. On most four and straight six cylinder engines,
there is usually a single oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust manifold. On V6, V8 and V10
engines, there are usually two oxygen sensors, one in each exhaust manifold. This allows the
computer to monitor the air/fuel mixture from each bank of cylinders.
On later model vehicles with OBD II (some 1993 and '94 models, and all 1995 and newer models),
one or two additional oxygen sensors are also mounted in or behind the catalytic converter to monitor
converter efficiency. These are referred to as the downstream O2 sensors, and thee will be one for
each converter if the engine has dual exhausts with separate converters.
How are the oxygen sensors identified on a scan tool?
When displayed on a scan tool, the right and left upstream oxygen sensors are typically labeled Bank
1, Sensor 1 and Bank 2, Sensor 1. The Bank 1 sensor will always be on the same side of a V6 or V8
engine as cylinder number one.
On a scan tool, the downstream sensor on a four or straight six cylinder engine with single exhaust is
typically labeled Bank 1, Sensor 2. On a V6, V8 or V10 engine, the downstream O2 sensor might be
labeled Bank 1 or Bank 2, Sensor 2. If a V6, V8 or V10 engine has dual exhausts with dual
converters, the downstream O2 sensors would be labeled Bank 1, Sensor 2 and Bank 2, Sensor 2.
Or, the downstream oxygen sensor might be labeled Bank 1 Sensor 3 if the engine has two upstream
oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifold (some do to more accurately monitor emissions).
It's important to know how the O2 sensors are identified because a diagnostic trouble code that
indicates a faulty O2 sensor requires a specific sensor to be replaced. Bank 1 Sensor 1 might be the
back O2 sensor on a transverse V6, or it might be the one on the front exhaust manifold. What's
more, the O2 sensors on a transverse engine might be labeled differently than those on a rear-wheel
drive application. There is not a lot of consistency as from one vehicle manufacturer to another as to
how O2 sensors are labeled, so always refer to the OEM service literature to find out which sensor is
Bank 1 Sensor 1 and which one is Bank 2 Sensor 1. This information can be difficult to find. Some
OEMs clearly identify which O2 sensor is which but others do not. If in doubt, call a dealer and ask
somebody in the service department.
For Oxygen Sensor Locations, Click Here.
How does a downstream O2 sensor monitor converter efficiency?
A downstream oxygen sensor in or behind the catalytic converter works exactly the same as an
upstream O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold. The sensor produces a voltage that changes when the
amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust changes. If the O2 sensor is a traditional zirconia type
sensor, the voltage output drops to about 0.2 volts when the fuel mixture is lean (more oxygen in the
exhaust). When the fuel mixture is rich (less oxygen in the exhaust), the sensor's output jumps up to
a high of about 0.9 volts. The high or low voltage signal tells the PCM the fuel mixture is rich or lean.
On some newer vehicles, a new type of Wide Ratio Air Fuel (WRAF) Sensor is used. Instead of
producing a high or low voltage signal, the signal changes in direct proportion to the amount of
oxygen in the exhaust. This provides a more precise measurement for better fuel control. These
sensors are also called wideband oxygen sensors because they can read very lean air/fuel mixtures.
The OBD II system monitors converter efficiency by comparing the upstream and downstream
oxygen sensor signals. If the converter is doing its job and is reducing the pollutants in the exhaust,
the downstream oxygen sensor should show little activity (few lean-to-rich transitions, which are also
called "crosscounts"). The sensor's voltage reading should also be fairly steady (not changing up or
down), and average 0.45 volts or higher.
If the signal from the downstream oxygen sensor starts to mirror that from the upstream oxygen
sensor(s), it means converter efficiency has dropped off and the converter isn't cleaning up the
pollutants in the exhaust. The threshold for setting a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and turning on the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is when emissions are estimated to exceed federal limits by 1.5
times. See Troubleshooting a P0420 Catalyst Code for more info about converter problems.
If converter efficiency had declined to the point where the vehicle may be exceeding the pollution
limit, the PCM will turn on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) and set a diagnostic trouble code. At
that point, additional diagnosis may be needed to confirm the failing converter. If the upstream and
downstream O2 sensors are functioning properly and show a drop off in converter efficiency, the
converter must be replaced to restore emissions compliance. The vehicle will not pass an OBD II
emissions test if there are any converter codes in the PCM.
What's the difference between a "heated" and "unheated" oxygen sensor?
Heated oxygen sensors have an internal heater circuit that brings the sensor up to operating
temperature more quickly than an unheated sensor. An oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 to 650
degrees F) before it will generate a voltage signal. The hot exhaust from the engine will provide
enough heat to bring an O2 sensor up to operating temperature, but it make take several minutes
depending on ambient temperature, engine load and speed. During this time, the fuel feedback
control system remains in "open loop" and does not use the O2 sensor signal to adjust the fuel
mixture. This typically results in a rich fuel mixture, wasted fuel and higher emissions.
By adding an internal heater circuit to the oxygen sensor, voltage can be routed through the heater as
soon as the engine starts to warm up the sensor. The heater element is a resistor that glows red hot
when current passes through it. The heater will bring the sensor up to operating temperature within
20 to 60 seconds depending on the sensor, and also keep the oxygen sensor hot even when the
engine is idling for a long period of time.
Heated O2 sensors typically have two-three or four wires (the extra wires are for the heater circuit).
Note: Replacement O2 sensors must have the same number of wires as the original, and have the
same internal resistance.
The OBD II system also monitors the heater circuit and will set a trouble code if the heater circuit
inside the O2 sensor is defective. The heater is part of the sensor and cannot be replaced separately,
so if the heater circuit is open or shorted and the problem is not in the external wiring or sensor
connector, the O2 sensor must be replaced.
Troubleshoot Idle Speed Control System

Copyright AA1Car
The Idle Speed Control (ISC) valve, also called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, is used on both
throttle body and multipoint fuel injected engines to regulate idle speed. Chrysler calls theirs an
Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor while Ford refers to theirs as an Idle Speed Control (ISC) solenoid.
The IAC valve opens a small bypass circuit that allows air to bypass the throttle. Increasing the
volume of air that flows through the bypass circuit around the throttle increases idle speed. Reducing
the bypass airflow decreases idle speed.
The ISC valve is controlled by the engine's computer (powertrain control module or PCM). The
computer monitors idle speed by counting ignition pulses from the ignition module in the distributor or
crankshaft position sensor when the throttle position sensor or throttle switch signals the computer
that the throttle is closed and the engine is at idle.
When the engine's idle speed is above or below the preset range in the computer's program, the
computer commands the ISC valve to either increase or decrease the bypass air flow. Additional
sensor inputs from the coolant sensor, brake switch and speed sensor may also be used by the
computer to regulate idle speed according to various operating conditions.
Idle speed may also be increased when the A/C compressor is engaged, the alternator is charging
above a certain voltage, and/or the automatic transmission is in gear to prevent the engine from
lugging down.
DIAGNOSING IDLE SPEED PROBLEMS
If you engine is idling too fast, too slow or stalling, the problem may not be the idle speed control
system, but an engine vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks first to rule out this possibility.
A common condition is to find the idle air bypass solenoid extended all the way out (closed). This
usually means the engine has an air leak and the PCM is trying to bring the idle speed back down by
closing the idle air bypass circuit.
If there is an open or short in the idle air control solenoid, wiring or driver circuit, or the idle speed it
out of range, it will usually set one or more fault codes and turn on the Check Engine light. If the light
is on, you need to plug a scan tool into the diagnostic connector and read out the codes that set the
light.
GENERAL MOTORS IDLE SPEED CONTROL

On older pre-OBD II cars, A code 11 indicates a problem in the idle air control circuit. On OBD II
vehicles (1996 & newer), codes P505 to P509 indicate a fault with the idle speed control system.
The diagnostic procedure involves disconnecting ISC motor, then starting the engine to see if the idle
speed increases (it should). Turn the engine off, reconnect IAC and start the engine again. This time
the idle speed should return to normal. If it does, the problem is not in the IAC circuit or motor. Check
for vacuum leaks or other problems that would affect idle speed.
If the idle speed does not change when the IAC is unplugged, and/or does not return to normal after
reconnecting the unit, use a test light to check the idle speed control solenoid wiring circuits while the
key is on. The test light should flash on and or go from bright to dim on all four circuits if the PCM and
wiring are okay (this would tell you teh fault is in the ISC motor). If the test light fails to flash on one or
more circuits, the fault is in the wiring or PCM.
FORD IDLE AIR BYPASS

Ford doesn't use idle air bypass to regulate idle speed on its older throttle body (CFI) applications,
but uses a solenoid or vacuum diaphragm instead to open the throttle linkage. Idle air bypass is used
only on multipoint injection applications. On older pre-OBD II cars, codes 12, 13, 16, 17 & 19 all
indicate idle speed is out of spec (too high or too low). Codes 47 and 48 indicate a fuel mixture
problem which could be caused by an air leak. On OBD II vehicles (1996 & newer), codes P505 to
P509 indicate a fault with the idle speed control system.
The diagnostic procedure when any of these codes are found is to turn the engine off, unplug the ISC
bypass air solenoid connector, then restart the engine to see if the idle rpm drops (it should if the ISC
solenoid is working). No change would indicate a problem in the motor or wiring.
The ISC solenoid can be checked by measuring its resistance. With the positive lead of a digital
volt/ohm meter on the VPWR pin and the negative lead on the ISC pin, measure the resistance of the
solenoid. On many applications, the spec calls for 7.0 to 13.0 ohms. If it is out of specs, the ISC
solenoid is bad. Also check for shorts between both ISC solenoid terminals and the case.
If the ISC checks out okay, check for battery voltage between the ISC connector terminals while the
key is on. Voltage should also vary when the engine is running. No voltage indicates a wiring or
computer problem.
CHRYSLER IDLE SPEED CONTROL
On pre-OBD II Chryslers, a Code 25 means there is a problem in the AIS motor driver circuit. On
OBD II vehicles (1996 & newer), codes P505 to P509 indicate a fault with the idle speed control
system.
The AIS driver circuit can be checked with a bi-directional scan tool using commands to increase idle
speed. No change in commanded idle speed would tell you there is a problem in the driver circuit, the
wiring or the solenoid. You can remove the AIS from the throttle body to see if the valve pintle is
moving in and out, or simply listen for the motor to buzz.
In the engine running test mode #70, which checks the throttle body minimum air flow, depressing
and holding the proper button on a hand held scan tool should close the AIS bypass circuit. At the
same time, ignition timing and fuel mixture are fixed. Idle speed should increase to about 1300 to
1500 rpm. If it doesn't match the specs, the minimum air flow through the throttle body is incorrect.
INSTALLING A NEW IDLE SPEED CONTROL SOLENOID
When installing a new GM IAC or Chrysler AIS solenoid, the pintle must not extend more than a
certain distance from the housing. The specs vary so check the manual or look up the specs in the
OEM service literature. Chrysler says one inch (26 mm) is the limit, while some GM allows up to 28
mm on some units and 32 mm on others. If the pintle is overextended, it can be retracted by either
pushing it in (GM) or by connecting it to its wiring harness and using actuator test 03 to move it in
(Chrysler).
GM W-Body ECM Trouble Codes

What do you do when this dreaded light turns
on?
In every GM W-Body car, there is a computer that controls virtually all aspects of the engine's
operation. This computer is called the ECM, or "Electronic Control Module". The ECM is
constantly controlling, adjusting, and monitoring engine conditions. If there is an engine
malfunction caused or detected by any one of the many sensors connected to the ECM, a trouble
code will be stored in NVM, or Non-Volatile Memory. What you need to do first is find out what
trouble codes are presently stored in the ECM. You can read these trouble codes in several different
ways. The best and easiest way is to purchase a "scan tool". A scan tool displays trouble codes
numerically on a LCD display or computer terminal. The more expensive scan tools also display
the details behind the trouble code in full detail, such as the sensor voltage detected and what it
should be. The drawbacks to the scan tool method is that a scan tool costs several thousands of
dollars. The other method is to perform a "NON-SCAN" diagnostic circuit check by having the
"Service Engine Soon" light blink out the codes stored in the ECM.
Regardless of the method used, the secret to communicating with the car's computer is through the
ALDL connector (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link). This is where a scan tool would plug in. We
will also utilize this connector for our "NON-SCAN" method.
NOTE: The cheap $25-30 "scan tool" and the $5 "scan key" that you find at many auto parts stores are NOT
actual scan tools. They are essentially expensive jumper wires. Don't buy them unless you like wasting money,
a paperclip or wire will work.
The following "NON-SCAN" method can be used to read these codes.

A steady "Service Engine Soon" light with ignition "ON" and engine stopped confirms battery and ignition
voltage to the ECM.
1. First you must locate the ALDL connector which is located under the dash on the driver's
side, to the right of the steering column.
The ALDL connector looks like this

For reference, ALDL pinouts are: A. Ground; B. Diagnostic Terminal; C. A.I.R. (if used); D.
Service Engine Soon Light (if used); E. Serial Data; F. TCC (if used); G. Fuel Pump (if used);
M. Serial Data (if used)
2. Use a jumper (paper clip) and connect terminal "B" to terminal "A". Terminal "A" is the
ground connection. Turn the ignition "ON", but don't start the engine, it must be left NOT
RUNNING.
3. The ECM will cause the "Service Engine Soon" light to flash Code 12 three (3) times
consecutively. This would be the following flash sequence: "flash, pause, flash-flash,
long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash" (See
Figure 1). Code 12 means the diagnostic system is operating properly. Following Code 12,
the other trouble codes will be output if present, or Code 12 will be output continuously if
no other codes are stored. If more than one code was stored, they will be output from
lowest to highest, with each one being displayed three times.
Example: An error Code 25 will be: 12,12,12,25,25,25,12,12,12, etc.

Figure 1: Example of "Service Engine Soon" light flashing Code 12 continuously.
4. To quit scanning for codes, simply shut the ignition "OFF" and remove the jumper.
5. To clear codes, ensure that the ignition is "OFF". Depending on the car, you can disconnect
an inline "pigtail" fuse at the positive battery terminal, or remove the ECM fuse in the fuse
block. Power to the ECM must be disconnected for at least thirty (30) seconds. This will
cause the ECM to reset clearing all Codes, and the ECM will now need to re-learn driving
parameters.
The following chart gives Code # and Description of the

problem
Click on Malfunction Description to get more detailed information.
ERROR
CODE
MALFUNCTION DESCRIPTION
12
ERROR CODE DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY
13
OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT OPEN
14
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (CTS) CIRCUIT (HIGH TEMP)
15
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (CTS) CIRCUIT (LOW TEMP)
21
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) CIRCUIT (HIGH)
22
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) CIRCUIT (LOW)
23
MANIFOLD AIR TEMP (MAT) or INTAKE AIR TEMP (IAT) CIRCUIT (LOW
TEMP)
24
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS) CIRCUIT
25
MANIFOLD AIR TEMP (MAT) or INTAKE AIR TEMP (IAT) CIRCUIT (HIGH
TEMP)
26
QUAD-DRIVER (QDM) ERROR (if applicable)
32
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) CIRCUIT
33
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR (VOLTAGE HIGH-LOW

VACUUM)
34
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR (VOLTAGE LOW-HIGH

VACUUM)
35
IDLE SPEED CONTROL (ISC) CIRCUIT
41
CYLINDER SELECT ERROR (FAULTY OR INCORRECT MEM-CAL)
42
ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING (EST) CIRCUIT
43
ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL (ESC) CIRCUIT
44
OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT (LEAN EXHAUST)
45
OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT (RICH EXHAUST)
51
MEM-CAL ERROR (FAULTY OR INCORRECT MEM-CAL)
53
SYSTEM OVER VOLTAGE
54
FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT (LOW VOLTAGE)
55
ECM ERROR
61
DEGRADED OXYGEN SENSOR
66
A/C PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
Return to Chart
CODE 12
Trouble Code 12 is a special-case code that is not logged into the ECM's Non-
Volatile Memory (NVM) when detected. When the ECM detects no ignition
reference pulses from the ignition module when the ignition is in the 'ON'
position, it illuminates the Check Engine Lamp (CEL), but does not log this
code as it would other codes.
Code 12 is used on most systems when in the Diagnostic mode (ALDL Terminal
B grounded, key-on/engine-off) to signal the beginning or end of a so-called
'diagnostic sequence', when the ECM annunciates each stored code in the
ECM's NVM on the dash CEL.
When in this mode, the ECM will begin by flashing code 12 on the CEL 3 times.
This indicates the beginning of a diagnostic sequence. It will then flash any
codes stored in NVM 3 times each before proceeding to the next code. When
all stored codes are finished, the ECM will again flash code 12 to indicate the
end of the diagnostic sequence. The cycle will continue as long as the ECM is
in Diagnostic Mode.
NOTE: Codes are not displayed in order of occurance but rather in numerical
order.
Return to Chart
CODE 13
Trouble Code 13 indicates that the exhaust stream oxygen-content sensor (O2
sensor) is not responding as expected. When cold, the sensor is 'biased' by the
ECM to about 450 millivolts. Before it warms to at least 600 deg F (315 deg C)
it acts as an open circuit and when the ECM reads it, it reads the 450 mV bias.
The ECM expects the sensor to warm in a short period of time and begin
sending its own voltages. The general conditions for this code getting set are:
- engine running at least 2 minutes
- coolant temperature at least 50 deg C (122 deg F)
- O2 voltage not fluctuating (i.e steady between 350 and 550 mV)
- TPS signal above idle
- all above conditions met for 60 seconds
Typical causes may include:
1) Defective or degraded O2 sensor
2) Deposit-contaminated O2 sensor (running leaded fuel, RTV silicone deposits

etc)
3) Corroded/defective O2 sensor connection
4) Defective sensor ground circuit
5) Defective connection at ECM
6) Defective ECM
NOTE: If codes 21 and/or 22 are also present cause '4' above should be
checked first.
Return to Chart
CODE 14
Trouble Code 14 indicates that the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) is
reporting abnormally high readings. CTS is used to control fuel mixture, timing,
idle speed, TCC and EGR operations among others. The thermistor used has a
high-resistance when cold, lowering as the coolant warms.
Code 14 will set if:
- temperature reported is > 270 deg F (135 deg C)
- conditions above are present for more than 20 seconds
Typical thermistor resistances expected are:
Deg C
Deg F
Resistance (ohms)
100
212
177
70
158
332
40
104
1459
20
68
3520
41
7280
-5
23
12300
-20
-4
28680
-40
-40
100700

1) Severe engine overheating
2) Defective Coolant Temperature Sensor
3) Short circuit in CTS-ECM harness
4) Defective ECM
Return to Chart
CODE 15
Trouble Code 15 indicates that the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) is
reporting abnormally low readings. CTS is used to control fuel mixture, timing,
idle speed, TCC and EGR operation, among others. The thermistor used has a
high-resistance when cold, lowering as the coolant warms.
- temperature reported is < -37.30 deg F (-38.5 deg C)
Typical thermistor resistances expected are:
Deg C
Deg F
Resistance (ohms)
100
212
177
70
158
332
40
104
1459
20
68
3520
41
7280
-5
23
12300
-20
-4
28680
-40
-40
100700

1) Open circuit in CTS-ECM harness
2) Defective Coolant Temperature Sensor
3) Open sensor ground circuit
4) Defective ECM
Return to Chart
CODE 21
Trouble Code 21 indicates that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is reading
abnormally high. TPS volts should be close to 0.42 V at closed throttle and rise
smoothly in about 0.02 volt increments to a maximum reading of about 4.85
volts at WOT.
Engine is running
TPS signal voltage is greater than 4.3 volts
No Code 33 or Code 34
Air Flow is less than 17 gm/sec.
All conditions met for 1.25 seconds
Typical causes for this code include:
1) Defective TPS
2) Short circuit in the TPS harness to +5 volt reference
4) Defective ECM
NOTE: Presence of codes 33 and/or 34 may indicate that the MAP sensor is
defective and is reading less than expected. This may cause the above setconditions to be met falsely and this code to be set.
Return to Chart
CODE 22
Trouble Code 22 indicates that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is reading
abnormally low. TPS volts should be close to 0.42 V at closed throttle and rise
smoothly in about 0.02 volt increments to a maximum reading of about 4.85
volts at WOT.
- Engine Running
- TPS reading < 0.25 volts for 3 seconds
1) Circuit Open or Shorted to Ground
2) Faulty Connection
3) Faulty TPS
4) Defective ECM
TPS cannot be adjusted, the TPS has an auto zeroing feature.
Return to Chart
CODE 23
Trouble Code 23 indicates that the Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor or Intake Air
Temperature (IAT) is reading lower than expected. When the air is cold, the thermistor has a high
resistance, which falls as the air charge warms. Low readings thus indicate possible open circuits in
MAT circuit.
MAT reading is < -31 deg F (-35 deg C)
Time since engine start is 4 minutes or longer.
Vehicle speed less than 1 mph
Start-up coolant temperature is less than or equal to -35.5 C (31.9 F).
All conditions met for 10 sec.

1) Defective MAT or IAT sensor
3) Dirty or corroded connection(s) at MAT/IAT and/or ECM
4) Open circuit between the ECM and the MAT/IAT sensor
5) Defective ECM
Return to Chart
CODE 24
Trouble Code 24 indicates that the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is not sending the expected (based
on other system parameters like LV8, TPS, RPM etc.) signal to the ECM.
Code 24 will be set if vehicle speed equals zero 0 mph when:
VSS indicates less than 2mph.
MAP is less than 30 kPa.
Engine speed is between 2200 and 4400 RPM
TPS is less than 2%.
Not in Park or Neutral
No Code 21, 22, 33, or 34.
All conditions met for 3 seconds
If the code was logged when the vehicle was in motion, the following should be
checked:
1) VSS circuit open, shorted to ground, shorted together
2) Faulty Connections
3) Defective VSS
4) Defective ECM
5) A faulty or misadjusted Park/Neutral (P/N) switch can result in false Code 24.
Return to Chart
CODE 25
Trouble Code 25 indicates that the Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) or Intake Air Temperature
(IAT) sensor is reading higher than expected. When the air is cold, the thermistor has a high
resistance, which falls as the air charge warms. High readings thus indicate possible short circuits
in MAT circuit.
- MAT/IAT reading is > 293 deg F (135 deg C) for .2 seconds

- vehicle speed is greater than 1 MPH
1) Defective MAT/IAT sensor
2) MAT/IAT signal shorted to ground or to sensor ground
3) Defective ECM
Return to Chart
CODE 26
Trouble Code 26 indicates that the quad-driver is malfunctioning.
QDM symptoms:
Cooling fan(s) inoperative
Poor driveability due to 100% canister purge.
Coolant light "ON" all the time, "OFF" during bulb check.
EGR inoperative - Code 32.
TCC inoperative
This problem can be caused by:
1) Short to 12 volts on the control circuit by a shorted component.
2) Faulty ECM.
Return to Chart
CODE 32
Trouble Code 32 indicates that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system has detected a fault.
There are two types, the older integrated electronic EGR contains a voltage regulator which
converts the ECM signal to provide different amounts of EGR flow by regulating the current to the
solenoid. The ECM controls EGR flow with a pulse width modulated signal (turns "ON" and
"OFF" many times a second) based on airflow, TPS, and RPM. This system also contains a pintle
position sensor which works similar to a TPS sensor, and as EGR flow is increased, the sensor
output also increases. The other type is a digital 3-level EGR used in newer engines. Code 32 will
get set when:
(Integrated EGR) Coolant temperature above the specified amount, EGR
should be on.
(Integrated EGR) EGR pintle position does not match duty cycle.
(Digital EGR) Failure of EGR system.
Possible causes include:

1) Faulty EGR valve-to-ECM connection
2) Plugged EGR passages and/or sticking EGR valve
3) Defective EGR valve
4) Defective ECM
Check the shop manual for details on vehicle specific EGR valve applications.
Return to Chart
CODE 33
Trouble Code 33 indicates that the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is detecting
unusually low vacuum in the manifold. Code 33 will get set when:
No Code 21 or Code 22.
Engine running.
Manifold pressure greater than 74 kPa (A/C "OFF") 83.4 kPa (A/C "ON.")
Throttle angle less than 2%.
Conditions met for 4.8 seconds.
1) Faulty MAP-to-ECM connection
2) Plugged or leaking sensor vacuum hose
3) Defective MAP sensor
4) Defective ECM
Check the shop manual for details on vehicle specific MAP sensor applications.
Return to Chart
CODE 34
Trouble Code 34 indicates that the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is detecting
unusually high vacuum in the manifold. Code 34 will get set when:
Engine RPM less than 700.
Manifold pressure reading less than 13 kPa.
Conditions met for .22 second.
OR
Engine RPM greater than 700.
Throttle angle over 20%.

Manifold pressure less than 13 kPa.
Conditions met for .22 second.
1) Faulty MAP-to-ECM connection
2) Defective MAP sensor
3) Defective ECM
Check the shop manual for details on vehicle specific MAP sensor applications.
Return to Chart
CODE 35
Trouble Code 35 indicates a problem with the Idle Speed Control (ISC) circuit. It will be set when
the closed throttle engine speed is 200 RPM above or below the desired (commanded) idle speed
for 50 seconds. Possible causes include:
1) Vacuum Leak (High Idle) - Also check for binding of throttle blade or linkage.
2) System too lean (High Air/Fuel Ratio) - The idle speed may be too high or too low. Check for
low regulated fuel pressure, water in the fuel, or a restricted injector.
3) System too rich (Low Air/Fuel Ratio) - The idle speed will be too low. May exhibit black smoke
in exhaust. Check for high fuel pressure, leaking or sticking injector.
4) Foreign material in throttle body.
5) Faulty IAC Valve electrical connections.
6) Faulty PCV valve.
7) Faulty IAC.
8) Faulty ECM.
Return to Chart
CODE 41
Trouble Code 41 indicates an incorrect MEM-CAL has been installed or it is faulty and it must be
replaced.
1) Faulty connection due to MEM-CAL not locked in place.
2) Incorrect MEM-CAL installed.
3) Faulty MEM-CAL.
Return to Chart
CODE 42
Trouble Code 42 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Timing (EST)
system. During cranking, the timing is controlled by the ignition module and the ECM grounds the
EST line. It expects to see no activity on this line at this time. When the ECM enters EST mode, it
applies +5 volts to the BYPASS line and expects to see voltage variations on the EST line.
Reasons for the ECM to set Code 42:
- System in BYPASS mode (i.e. EST line supposedly grounded) but activity sensed on EST line
- System in EST mode (i.e. BYPASS line driven with +5 volts) but no activity seen on the EST line
1) BYPASS line is open or grounded
2) EST line is open or grounded
3) Poor connections between ignition module and ECM
4) Poor routing of EST harness and/or poor quality ignition wires (EMI induced electrical noise
5) Faulty or incorrect ignition module
6) Faulty ECM
Return to Chart
CODE 43
Trouble Code 43 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Control (ESC)
circuit. ESC is used to sense spark knock (pinging) and retard the timing to eliminate it. The knock
sensor is located at the rear of the engine block. The ECM will retard the timing by as much as 20
degrees in 1 degree increments. A loss of knock sensor signal or loss of ground at the ESC module
will cause the signal at the ECM to remain high. The ECM will act as if no knock is present, and
may possibly result in engine damage, due to detonation.
Code 43 is set when:
Voltage at Knock Sensor is above 4.8 volts or below .64 volts.
Either condition is met for about 10 seconds.
Possible causes:
1) Open or shorted knock sensor
2) Loose knock sensor
3) Excessive mechanical noise within engine
4) Improper or incorrectly installed MEM-CAL in the ECM or defective ECM
5) Intermittent open in the EST line to the ignition module
Return to Chart
CODE 44
Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently high exhaust oxygen content
(lean), despite the efforts of the ECM to increase injector on-time (thus increasing fuel delivered).
Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate > 128 by a substantial margin.
- O2 sensor voltage remains below .2 volt for 60 or more seconds
- System is operating in "Closed Loop."
- No Code 33 or Code 34
1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked)
3) Water in fuel
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure too low
Note: Presence of Code(s) 33 and/or 34 may indicate MAP problem. This should be the first
suspect in the case of a Code 44 being set.
Return to Chart
CODE 45
Trouble Code 45 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently low exhaust oxygen content
(rich), despite the efforts of the ECM to decrease injector on-time (thus decreasing fuel delivered).
Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate < 128 by a substantial margin.
- O2 sensor voltage remains above .7 volt for 50 seconds
- engine has been running for 1 minute or more
- throttle is between 3 and 45 percent open
- system is running "Closed Loop"
1) O2 sensor defective or contaminated (if incorrect RTV sealant or too much RTV is used, this
may happen)
2) Leaking fuel injectors
3) Fuel pressure too high
4) EMI interference from poor plug wires
5) Evaporative Emission system defect
6) TPS and/or EGR problem
Note: Presence of Code(s) 33 and/or 34 may indicate MAP problem. This should be the first
suspect in the case of a Code 45 being set.
Return to Chart
CODE 51
Trouble Code 51 indicates that the ECM sensed a fault in the MEM-CAL. On power-up, the ECM
does a checksum of the MEM-CAL to ensure the MEM-CAL integrity is good. If the calculated
sum does not match the sum in the MEM-CAL, the ECM will hardcode 51 and enter Back-Up
mode, since the ECM cannot know where in the MEM-CAL the fault lies.
- the actual MEM-CAL checksum does not match the value in the MEM-CAL
1) Incorrectly installed MEM-CAL module
2) Defective MEM-CAL module
3) Defective ECM
Return to Chart
CODE 52
Trouble Code 52 indicates that the ECM sensed a fault in the CALPACK. The CALPACK is a
module separate from the PROM that contains preset calibrations used by the system in the limphome mode. The ECM checks for its presence at power up.
Code 52 gets set when:
- the ECM does not sense the CALPACK
1) Incorrectly installed CALPACK module
2) Incorrect CALPACK module for this vehicle
3) Defective or incorrectly inserted PROM
4) Defective ECM
Return to Chart
CODE 53
This code will be set when the ignition is "ON", and the engine RPM is greater than 800 and the
ECM is seeing a ignition fuel reference voltage of more than 17.1 volts. During the time of this
failure, all ECM outputs will be disengaged.
1) Faulty generator.
2) Faulty ECM.
Return to Chart
CODE 54
Trouble Code 54 indicates a low voltage at the fuel pump. If the voltage at terminal "A20" is less
than 4 volts for .4 seconds since the last reference pulse was received, the code will be set.
1) Faulty fuel pump relay.
2) Faulty connection at ECM.
3) Faulty oil pressure switch.
4) Faulty ECM.
Return to Chart
CODE 55
Trouble Code 55 indicates that the Analog- to-Digital (A/D) converter in the ECM timed out. The
ECM checks this by initiating a conversion and timing how long it takes to complete. If the
converter, for whatever reason, fails to signal the End-Of-Conversion (EOC) before a timeout
counter runs down, the ECM assumes it is bad and sets this code.
Possible causes for Code 55 are limited to:
1) Defective or incorrectly inserted MEM-CAL
2) Defective ECM
If replacing the ECM, be sure to transfer both the PROM and the CALPACK from the old unit. If
the old-ECM also indicated PROM failure (Code 51) or a bad CALPACK (Code 52), be sure to
verify these components are fully operational in the new unit. If they are not, they too will have to
be replaced.
Return to Chart
CODE 61
Trouble Code 61 indicates that the ECM has determined the oxygen sensor is contaminated or
degraded, because the voltage change time is slow or sluggish.
Possible causes:
1) Contaminated Oxygen sensor.
2) Oxygen sensor needs replacement.
Return to Chart
CODE 66
Trouble Code 66 indicates that A/C pressure sensor has determined that the A/C refrigerant system
pressure is either too low (0 psi, .1 volt at sensor) or too high (450 PSI, 4.6 volts at sensor) for 5
seconds or more. If this code is present, the A/C compressor is disabled by the ECM.
Possible causes:
1) A/C system pressure is above or below calibrated values.
2) Faulty A/C Pressure Sensor or wiring.
3) Faulty ECM.
Return to Chart
Transmission Electronic Control System
Electronic System Description

The following pages provide a brief description of each of the sensors and actuators used with the E4OD
transmission. The function of each of these components and the associated symptoms and diagnostic trouble
codes (DTCs) are also given.
E4OD Automatic Transmission Electronic Control System Component Locator
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 12A650:
On vehicles equipped with gasoline engines, the operation of the E4OD automatic transmission is controlled by the
powertrain control module. Many input sensors provide information to the powertrain control module, which then controls
the actuators that affect transmission operation.
On vehicles equipped with diesel engines, the operation of the E4OD automatic transmission is also controlled by the
powertrain control module. However, some of the input sensors are different.
Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch 2884:
Description: The air conditioning clutch is an electromagnetic clutch that is energized when the clutch cycling A/C
pressure cut-off switch closes. The A/C pressure cut-off switch is located on the suction accumulator-drier. The closing of
the A/C pressure cut-off switch completes the circuit to the clutch and draws it into engagement with the compressor
driveshaft. Used as an input to determine electronic pressure control when the air conditioning clutch is engaged to
compensate for the additional load on the engine.
Symptoms: Failed on electronic pressure control slightly low with A/C off. Failed off electronic pressure control
slightly high with A/C on.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 539, P1460, P1463, P1464.
Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch 13480:
Description: The brake on/off switch tells the powertrain control module when the brakes are applied. The switch is
closed when the brakes are applied and open when they are released. The PCM uses this signal to disengage torque
converter clutch when brake is applied.
Symptoms: Failed on or not connected Torque converter clutch will not engage at less than 1/3 throttle. Failed off
Torque converter clutch will not disengage when brake is applied.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 536, P1703.
Distributor Ignition (DI) System:
Description: On gasoline engines, the profile ignition pickup sensor sends a signal to the powertrain control module
indicating the engine rpm and the crankshaft position.
Symptoms: Engine will stall or miss.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 211, P0340, P0341, P0344.
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor 7.3L DI Diesel Only:
Description: On the 7.3L DI diesel engines, the CMP sensor provides engine rpm information to the PCM. This rpm
input is used to determine shift scheduling and EPC pressure.
Symptoms: No start.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: P0340, P0341, P0344
4x4 Low (4x4L) Switch:
Description: The low range switch is located on the transfer case cover. It provides an indication of when the 4x4
transfer case gear system is in the LOW range. Modifies shift schedule for 4x4L transfer case gear ratio.
Symptoms: Failed on Early shift schedule in 4x2 and 4x4H. Failed off Shifts delayed in 4x4L. If the 4x4 low
indicator light fuse is blown, the transmission will shift according to 4x4 low shift schedule regardless of transfer case
position.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 633, 691, P1729, P1781.
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 12B579:
Description: The mass air flow sensor directly measures the mass of air flowing into the engine. The sensor output is a
D.C. (analog) signal ranging from 0.5 volt to 5 volts used by the processor to calculate injector pulse width. Used as an
input to determine electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: High electronic pressure, firm shifts and engagements.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 157, 158, 159, 184, 185, P0102, P0103, P1100, P1101.
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Gasoline Engines:
Description: On gasoline engines, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor senses atmospheric pressure to
produce an electrical signal. The frequency of this signal varies with intake manifold pressure. The powertrain control
module monitors this signal to determine altitude. The PCM then adjusts the E4OD shift schedule and EPC pressure for
altitude.
On diesel engines, the MAP sensor measures boost pressure. The PCM monitors this signal and adjusts EPC pressure.
Symptoms: Firm shift feel, late shifts at altitude.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 126-129, P0235-P0237.
Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor 7.3L DI Diesel Only:
Description: The barometric pressure sensor operates similarly to the manifold absolute pressure sensor. It measures
barometric pressure instead of intake manifold pressure. The powertrain control module uses the signal from the
barometric pressure sensor to determine the altitude at which the vehicle is operating. The powertrain control module
then adjusts the E4OD shift schedule and EPC pressure for the altitude.
Symptoms: Firm shift feel, late shifts at altitude.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: P0107, P0108.
Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM):
Description: The programmable speedometer/odometer module receives input from the rear brake anti-lock sensor,
which is mounted on the rear axle differential housing. The PSOM processes this input signal information and relays it to
the powertrain control module and the speed control module. This signal tells the powertrain control module the vehicle
speed in miles per hour (mph). Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, unexpected downshifts may occur at closed
throttle, abnormal torque converter clutch operation or engages only at wide-open throttle (WOT). May flash
transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503.
Transmission Control Switch (TCS) and Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL):
Description: The transmission control switch (TCS) is a momentary contact switch. When the switch is pressed, a
signal is sent to the powertrain control module. The powertrain control module then energizes the transmission control
indicator lamp and the coast clutch solenoid, applying the coast clutch to provide engine braking and cancels fourth gear
operation. The TCIL indicates overdrive cancel mode activated (lamp on), electronic pressure control circuit shorted or
monitored sensor failure (lamp flashing).
Sensor: Transmission Control Switch.
Symptoms: No overdrive cancel when switch is cycled.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 632, P1780, tested during Key On Engine Off (KOEO) On-Board Diagnostic only.
Actuator: Transmission Control Indicator Lamp.
Symptoms: Failed on overdrive cancel mode always indicated, no flashing for electronic pressure control circuit
shorted. Failed off overdrive cancel mode never indicated, no flashing for electronic pressure control circuit shorted,
also may be due to a bad fuse. Erratic operation (flashing) may be due to a wiring concern.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 631, P1779.
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 9B989:
Description: The throttle position sensor is a potentiometer that is mounted on the throttle body on gas applications and
on the fuel injection pump lever on diesel applications. The throttle position sensor detects the position of the throttle
plate or lever and sends this information as a voltage signal to the powertrain control module.
If a malfunction occurs in the throttle position sensor circuit, the powertrain control module will recognize that the throttle
position sensor signal is out of specification. The powertrain control module will then operate the E4OD transmission at
a higher line pressure to prevent transmission damage. This high line pressure causes harsh upshift and engagements.
Used as an input to determine shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, abnormal or no torque converter clutch
operation. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 167, P0121, P0122, P0123, P1120, P1121, P1124, P1125.
Accelerator Pedal (AP) Sensor 7.3L DI Diesel Only:
Description: The accelerator pedal (AP) sensor is mounted on the accelerator pedal on 7.3L DI diesel engines. The AP
sensor detects the position of the accelerator pedal and sends this information as a voltage signal to the PCM.
If a malfunction occurs in the AP sensor circuit, the powertrain control module will recognize that the AP sensor signal is
out of specification. The powertrain control module will then operate the E4OD transmission at a higher line pressure to
prevent transmission damage. This high line pressure causes harsh upshift and engagements. Used as an input to
determine shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, abnormal or no torque converter clutch
operation. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 122, 123, P0122, P0123
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) 9E731:
Description: The vehicle speed sensor is a variable reluctance sensor that sends an AC/frequency signal to the
powertrain control module. The vehicle speed sensor signal is used by the powertrain control module to calculate
vehicle speed in mph. Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule; unexpected downshifts may occur at closed
throttle, abnormal torque converter clutch operation or torque converter clutch engages only at wide-open throttle. May
flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503.
Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor:
Description: The transmission fluid temperature sensor is located on the solenoid body assembly in the transmission
sump. It is a temperature-sensitive device called a thermistor. The resistance value of the transmission fluid temperature
sensor will vary with temperature change. The powertrain control module monitors voltage across the transmission fluid
temperature sensor to determine the temperature of the transmission fluid. The powertrain control module uses this
signal to determine whether a cold start shift schedule is necessary. The cold start shift schedule lowers shift speeds to
allow for the reduced performance of cold engine operation. The powertrain control module also uses the transmission
fluid temperature sensor input to adjust electronic pressure control pressure for temperature effects and inhibit torque
converter clutch operation during the warm-up period.
Symptoms: Torque converter clutch and stabilized shift schedule happens too soon after a cold start. Codes P1783 or
657 indicate transmission fluid temperature exceeds 132C (270F), results in increased EPC pressure and torque
converter clutch engagement. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 636, 637, 638, 657, P0712, P0713, P1711, P1783.
Transmission Range (TR) Sensor 7A247:
Description: The powertrain control module sends voltage to the Transmission Range (TR) sensor. The TR sensor
incorporates a series of step-down resistors which act as a voltage divider. The powertrain control module monitors this
voltage which corresponds to the position of the gearshift selector lever (P, R, N, (D), 2 or 1). The powertrain control
module uses this information to determine the desired gear and electronic pressure control pressure. The TR sensor is
located on the outside of the transmission at the gearshift selector lever.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 634, 654, 667, 668, P0705, P0707, P0708, P1705.
Transmission Solenoid Body:
Description: The powertrain control module controls the E4OD transmission operation through four on/off solenoids and
one Variable Force Solenoid. These solenoids and transmission fluid temperature sensor are housed in the transmission
solenoid body assembly. All are part of the transmission solenoid body and are not serviced individually. Additionally, in
1995, the protection diodes that were on the solenoid body have been moved to the PCM. Refer to the following
information for the functions of these solenoids.
The four on/off solenoids operate in the following manner.
When the solenoid is off, the fluid pressure feed is blocked by a check ball. The check ball is held in place by the
solenoid piston.
When the solenoid is turned on by the PCM, the piston is pulled up, releasing the check ball and allowing fluid
pressure to be applied to the check valves and/or other components controlled by the solenoid.
Solenoid Operation
Item
Description
Solenoid (Part of Transmission Solenoid Body)
Check Ball (Part of Solenoid)
Feed (Blocker)
Feed
Output (to Shift Valves, etc.)
Item
1
Description
Shift Solenoid 1 (Part of 7G391)
Shift Solenoid 2 (Part of 7G391)
Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid

(Part of 7G391)
Coast Clutch Solenoid (Part of 7G391)
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Location (Part of 7G391)
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid

(Part of 7G391)
Connector Pin
12-Way Connector
Pin
Description
EEC-V
Gas
EEC-V
Diesel
EEC-IV 5.8L (0/8,500 GVW) 7.5L

(0/14,000 GVW)
Vehicle Power (VPWR)
71, 97
71, 97
37, 57
Shift Solenoid 2
19
Shift Solenoid 1
27
27
52
Torque Converter Clutch
54
28
53
Coast Clutch Solenoid
53
53
55
Transmission Fluid Temperature

Sensor
37
37
42
Signal Return
(SIG RTN)
91
91
46
10
11
Electronic Pressure Control
81
81
38
12

Power
71, 97
71, 97
37, 57
Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid:
Description: The Electronic Pressure Control solenoid is a variable force solenoid. The variable-force type solenoid is
an electro-hydraulic actuator combining a solenoid and a regulating valve. It supplies electronic pressure control which
regulates transmission line pressure and line modulator pressure. This is done by producing resisting forces to the main
regulator and the line modulator circuits. These two pressures control clutch application pressures.
Symptoms: Failed on minimum electronic pressure control pressure (minimum transmission torque capacity). Limit
engine torque (partial fuel shut-off, heavy misfire). Flashing transmission control indicator lamp.
Failed off maximum electronic pressure control pressure, harsh engagements and shifts. May flash transmission
control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 624,* 625,* P1746,* P1747.*
CAUTION: The electronic pressure control pressure output from the variable force solenoid is NOT adjustable.
Any modification to the electronic pressure control solenoid will affect the transmission warranty. (*Output
circuit check, generated only by electrical condition.)
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid:
Torque converter clutch solenoid provides torque converter clutch control by shifting the converter clutch control valve to
apply or release the torque converter clutch.
Symptoms: Failed on engine stalls in drive at idle low speeds with brake applied or manual 2. Failed off converter
clutch never engages. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 629,* P0741,** P0743,** P1743, P1742, P1744. (*Output circuit check, generated only by
electrical condition. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) 7M107:
The Coast Clutch Solenoid provides coast clutch control by shifting the coast clutch shift valve. The solenoid is activated
by pressing the transmission control switch or by selecting the 1 or 2 range with the transmission gearshift selector lever.
In manual 1 and 2, the coast clutch is controlled by the solenoid and also hydraulically as a fail-safe to ensure engine
braking. In reverse, the coast clutch is controlled hydraulically and the solenoid is not on. NOTE: On certain applications,
the coast clutch is controlled by the PCM in the overdrive position (TCS OFF) in gears 1, 2, and 3.
Symptoms: Failed on Third gear engine braking with (D) range selected. Failed off No third gear engine braking in
overdrive cancel.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 626,* 628,** 643,* 652,* P0741,** P0743,* P1754.*
(*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related
transmission hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoids 1 and 2:
Shift solenoids 1 and 2 provide gear selection of first through fourth gears by controlling the pressure to the three shift
valves.
Shift Solenoid 1:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid
Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 621,* P0750,* P0751, P0781,** P0782,** P0783.** (*Output circuit
check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission
hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoid 2:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid
Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 622,* P0755,* P0781,** P0782,** P0783,** P0756. (*Output circuit
check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission
hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoid Operation Chart

The following solenoid application chart shows normal solenoid operation for given operating modes.
SHIFT SOLENOID OPERATION CHART
Gearshift Selector
Lever Position
Powertrain Control
Module Commanded
Gear
Shift Control
Solenoid 1
Shift Control
Solenoid 2
Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid
Coast Clutch
Solenoid
Park
First
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF
Reverse
First
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF
Neutral
First
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF
(D)
First
ON
OFF
(D)
Second
ON
ON
(D)
Third
OFF
ON
(D)
Fourth
OFF
OFF
OFF
(D)
Cancel
First Through Third Gear Only, Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2, and Torque Converter
Clutch, Same As Overdrive, Coast Clutch Solenoid Always On.
Manual 2
Second
ON
Manual 1
Second
OFF
OFF
OFF
ON
Manual 1
First
ON
OFF
OFF
ON
Powertrain control module controlled.
Transmission Vehicle Harness Connectors
Transmission Solenoid Body
Connector Pin
12-Way Connector
Pin
Description
EEC-V
Gas
EEC-V
Diesel
EEC-IV 5.8L (0/8,500 GVW) 7.5L

(0/14,000 GVW)
Vehicle Power (VPWR)
71, 97
71, 97
37, 57
Shift Solenoid 2
19
Shift Solenoid 1
27
27
52
Torque Converter Clutch
54
28
53
Coast Clutch Solenoid
53
53
55
Transmission Fluid Temperature

Sensor
37
37
42
Signal Return
(SIG RTN)
91
91
46
10
11
81
81
38
12

Power
71, 97
71, 97
37, 57
Transmission Range Sensor
Pin Number
Circuit
Circuit Function
57 (BK)
359 (GY/R)
Sensor Signal Return
199 (LB/Y)
Transmission Range Sensor to PCM
463 (R/W)
Electronic Transfer Case Module to TR Sensor
33 (W/PK)
Starter Circuit
140 (BK/PK)
Backup Lamp
298 (P/O)
Fused Accessory Feed
32 (R/LB)
Starter Circuit
Ground Circuit
Transmission Control System Diagram, EEC-IV, 5.8L 0/8,500 GVW; 7.5L 0/14,000 GVW (Only)
Transmission Control System Diagram, EEC-V Gas (Only)
Transmission Control System Diagram, EEC-V Diesel (Only)
How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid,

DPFE Sensor
August 01, 2011
Updated: January 09, 2015
Article Id: 145
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Testing the EGR system on your Ford, Mercury, or Lincoln car or truck is a pretty easy affair. You
don't need expensive testing equipment to do it and more importantly, with this article you'll be able to
find out exactly what part (of the entire system) is BAD and needs to be replaced and in the process
saving time and money.
You'll find step by step instructions on how to test:
1. EGR Valve
2. DPFE Sensor
1. (Delta Pressure Feedback Egr)
3. EGR Valve Vacuum Regulator Solenoid
4. Power Circuits
This How To Test article covers three different types of Ford EGR DPFE Sensors and below
you'll find important info that'll help you to successfully troubleshoot/diagnose the EGR valve code
that is lighting up your check engine light. Once you start testing, I recommend you start from TEST 1
and go from there.
Puedes encontrar este tutorial en Espaol aqu: Cmo Probar la Vlvula EGR, el Sensor DPFE,
y el Solenoide de Vaco de Ford (at: autotecnico-online.com).
Common Symptoms of a BAD EGR Valve

The following are the most common symptoms that a Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) car or truck will
usually experience when there's a fault in the EGR System:
1. Car or truck runs fine, but the check engine light (CEL) is on with an EGR Valve Fault Code:
1. P0401 EGR System Flow Insufficient.
2. P01406 EGR Valve Pintle Position.
2. Rough Idle.
3. Really BAD gas mileage.
4. Lack of power as you accelerate the vehicle down the road.
5. Car (or truck or mini-van) seems to run ok above 30 miles and hour but once you come to an
idle, the engine barely stays running and/or idles rough. Once you take off again, it runs OK.
What tools do I need?

Below is a list of must have tools that you'll need to successfully use the testing information in this
article to solve the EGR valve system malfunction on your Ford, Mercury, or Lincoln car or truck.
1. A multimeter (don't have a digital multimeter? Need to buy one? Click here to see my
recommendations: Buying a Digital Multimeter).
2. Vacuum pump.
3. Vacuum gauge.
4. About two feet of vacuum hose.
5. A repair manual.
1. For whatever remove and replace info you'll need that isn't covered by this
article.
6. A Wire-Piercing probe
1. This tool, which you can attach to your multimeter, is a time-saver. Most of the
tests that you're about to perform have to be done with the connector
connected to its component... and this tool will come in very handy! If you want
to see what one looks like, click here: Wire-Piercing Probe
Ford EGR Valve DPFE Circuit Descriptions
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As already mentioned, this article covers three different styles DPFE sensors. Two are bolted onto
the engine (one is plastic and the other is metal), and the other is suspended in place just by the two
hoses that are attached to it. They all function in the exact same manner. The following circuit
descriptions apply to all three DPFE sensors in the image viewer.
1. Circuit labeled 1:
1. DPFE Flow Signal
1. Sensor Ground.
1. 5 Volt Reference Voltage.
To make it easy for you to test the particular DPFE sensor on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) car or
truck, I have included images of all three types of DPFE sensors with the specific circuit (you need to
test) highlighted.
Also, the color of the wires of the DPFE Sensor or EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid, on your Ford or
Lincoln or Mercury vehicle, will not match the ones in the photos in the image viewer... this is no
cause for concern. The circuit descriptions are the same no matter what the individual color of the
wires on your Ford (Lincoln, Mercury) car or truck.
Ford EGR Valve Vacuum Solenoid

Circuit Descriptions
The EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is the second electrical component of the EGR system of your
Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) car or truck that you'll be diagnosing with the help of this article.
The EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is the same no matter what type of DPFE sensor your Ford
vehicle is using.
1. Power (12 Volts) Circuit.
1. Solenoid Control Signal from PCM (Powertrain Control Module=Fuel Injection
Computer).
The color of the wires on your Ford vehicle will not match the ones in the photos in the image
viewer... this is no cause for concern. The circuit descriptions are the same no matter what the
individual color of the wires on your Ford (Lincoln, Mercury) car or truck.
Safety Precautions When Testing

Most of the tests that you're about to do are done with your vehicle's engine running (idling).
Therefore, it's important that you stay alert, use common sense and take all necessary safety
precautions to keep yourself safe.
Also, the EGR valve can get very hot and so you must take care not to burn your hands or fingers.
TEST 1: EGR Valve Vacuum Pump Test
IMPORTANT: To success-fully use this info and correctly diagnose the EGR valve system on your
Ford (or Lincoln or Mercury) car or truck do not skip from test to test on your own. Follow the
indicated flow of test steps that each test recommends.
The very first thing that we'll do is to verify that the EGR valve itself is working. You'll need a vacuum
pump for this test.
This test is done with the engine running, so take all safety precautions.
1. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve.
2. Connect a vacuum pump, using a vacuum hose, to the EGR vacuum hose nipple on the EGR
valve (see photos in image viewer).
3. Have an assistant crank up the car (or truck).
4. Once the engine has started and is idling, apply vacuum with the vacuum pump.
5. As you apply vacuum, the engine should start to immediately idle very rough and possibly stall.
6. Now, apply vacuum again with the vacuum pump and hold the vacuum for about a 20 second
count.
1. The vacuum pump Gauge's needle should stay steady at whatever number of
in.Hg (or kpa) vacuum you have pumped it up to.
2. If the vacuum pump Gauge's needle does not hold steady, but starts to go down
to 0 (zero) in.HG, check that the vacuum hose that is connecting the vacuum
pump to the EGR valve is making a tight connection on both the EGR valve and
the vacuum pump.
7. When you are sure of your result, turn off the engine.
CASE 1: If the engine idle grew worse as you applied vacuum with the vacuum pump and the
vacuum pump's gauge needle stayed steady, then this result indicates that the EGR valve is
working correctly and that the EGR passages in the intake manifold (and in the EGR valve itself) are
not blocked with carbon. The next step is to verify that the DPFE sensor is working correctly. Leave
the vacuum pump connected to the EGR valve and go to TEST 2
CASE 2: If the engine idle grew worse as you applied vacuum with the vacuum pump and the
vacuum pump's gauge needle DID NOT stay steady: Verify that the vacuum hose you have
connected to both the vacuum pump and the EGR valve is not leaking vacuum and re-do the test.
If after verifying that the vacuum hose is making a tight seal and the vacuum needle on the Gauge
still drops (after applying vacuum to EGR valve with the engine idling), then this result indicates that
the EGR valve's inner rubber diaphragm is torn and leaking vacuum, although the EGR valve is
working correctly. Replace the EGR valve and road-test the car or truck.
CASE 3: If the engine idle DID NOT CHANGE as you applied vacuum with the vacuum pump,
this indicates one of two things either that 1) the EGR valve is BAD because its rubber diaphragm is
torn, or 2) that the EGR exhaust gas passages are blocked in the EGR valve itself, or 3) the inlet
EGR orifice on the intake manifold is blocked with carbon. The next step is to remove the EGR valve
and bench test it, go to TEST 3
TEST 2: Testing the DPFE EGR Flow Signal
Now we're gonna' verify that the DPFE Pressure Sensor is responding to EGR flow into the intake
manifold.
1. With the vacuum pump still connected to the EGR valve.
2. Attach the RED lead of the multimeter (using an appropriate tool) to the wire labeled with the
number 1 in the image viewer that corresponds to the type of DPFE sensor installed on your
vehicle.
3. Connect the BLACK lead of the multimeter to a good ground point on the engine or to the
battery negative terminal.
4. Select Volts DC on your multimeter.
5. Have an assistant crank up the car (or truck).
6. Once the engine has started, notice what the reading is on your multimeter (it should be a value
around .9 volts).
7. After taking note of the voltage value on your multimeter, apply vacuum with the vacuum pump.
8. As you apply vacuum, the engine should, once again, start to immediately idle very rough and
possibly stall.
9. Now notice the readings on your multimeter as you apply and release vacuum with your
vacuum pump.
Now, if the DPFE sensor is working correctly, you'll notice that the voltage reading on your multimeter
will increase (to about 3 Volts DC or as high as 4.5 Volts DC) whenever you apply vacuum with the
vacuum pump (and of course the engine will idle rough). The voltage will decrease back to the
original value recorded at idle and engine idle will return to normal when you release the vacuum
applied by the vacuum pump.
CASE 1: If the voltage reading on the multimeter increased as you applied vacuum with the
vacuum pump and decreased when you released the vacuum, then the DPFE sensor is working
correctly. The next step is to verify/check the EGR Valve Vacuum Regulator Solenoid. Go to TEST 4
CASE 2: If the voltage reading on the multimeter DID NOT increase as you applied vacuum with
the vacuum pump and DID NOT decrease when you released the vacuum, then the DPFE sensor is
BAD. Replacing the DPFE sensor should solve the EGR fault code issue that is lighting up your
check engine light (CEL) on your instrument cluster.
CASE 3: If NO voltage reading at all was displayed on the multimeter as you applied vacuum
with the vacuum pump and released it. The next step is to verify that the DPFE sensor is receiving
the 5V Reference voltage from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module=Fuel Injection Computer). Go to
TEST 7.
TEST 3: Bench Testing the EGR Valve
This test step is done with the EGR valve off of the engine. The EGR valve may be hot, so be careful.
The purpose of this test is to verify that when vacuum is applied to the EGR valve, the EGR valve's
pintle actually opens and closes. You'll need to blow compressed air thru the inlet opening of the
EGR valve, or if you don't have access to compressed air, you can use the good ole lungs by
blowing air with your mouth.
1. Remove the EGR valve from the engine.
2. Connect the vacuum pump once again to the EGR valve using a piece of vacuum hose (see
photos in image viewer).
3. Once the vacuum pump is set up, apply vacuum.
4. and apply compressed air to the inlet opening of the EGR valve.
CASE 1: If you were able to blow compressed air thru' the EGR valve's inlet opening to its
outlet side (which is the intake manifold side) when you applied vacuum with the vacuum pump:
then the EGR valve's inlet and outlet passages are not blocked with carbon build-up. The next step is
to visually check the EGR inlet orifice on the intake manifold to see that it's not blocked with carbon
build-up.
If carbon build-up/blockage exists on the EGR inlet orifice on the intake manifold, clean/remove it.
Re-install the EGR valve and re-test starting at TEST 1 again.
CASE 2: If you WERE NOT able to blow compressed air thru' the EGR valve's inlet opening to
its outlet side (which is the intake manifold side) when you applied vacuum with the vacuum
pump: The EGR valve's inlet and outlet passages are blocked with carbon build-up or the EGR valve
is BAD. Visually check it for carbon build-up/blockage and if blockage exists; clean and/or remove the
carbon build-up. If no carbon build-up exists, then the EGR valve is BAD, replace it.
TEST 4: Testing the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid

(Part 1)
The first part of this test is to verify that the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is getting getting a good
supply of engine vacuum from the intake manifold. Depending on the result of this test, the next test
is to check to see if the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is getting power (12 Volts), in TEST 5.
You can use a vacuum gauge if you want, but it isn't necessary since all we need to ascertain is that
engine vacuum is reaching the EGR Valve Vacuum Regulator Solenoid. OK, here's the test:
1. With the engine off, disconnect the two vacuum hoses that connect to the EGR Valve Vacuum
Regulator Solenoid.
1. These two vacuum lines can be very hard to take off from the EGR Valve
Vacuum Regulator Solenoid's nipples, if they have never been removed before.
2. You have to be very careful as you pull on them since you could break the EGR
Vacuum Regulator Solenoid in the process.
2. Once the vacuum plastic vacuum lines are off, have your helper start the engine.
3. One of the two vacuum lines/hoses will have engine vacuum.
1. If the vacuum lines are color coded, the line that is green is the one that usually
connects to the intake manifold and is the one that feeds vacuum to the EGR
Valve Vacuum Regulator Solenoid.
2. The other vacuum line is the one that feeds vacuum to the EGR valve once the
PCM commands the EGR Valve Vacuum Regulator Solenoid to come on.
3. If the vacuum lines are not color coded, no big deal... one of the two vacuum
hoses/lines will have engine vacuum.
CASE 1: If engine vacuum was present after the engine was started and was idling, This indicates
that the vacuum line is good and delivering the goods to the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid. The
next step is now to test the Power Circuit (12 Volt) of the EGR Valve Vacuum Regulator Solenoid, go
to TEST 5
CASE 2: If engine vacuum WAS NOT present when the engine after the engine was started and
was idling: This lack of vacuum will cause the EGR valve not to function and will light up your check
engine light (CEL) with an EGR valve fault code. Repairing and/or replacing whatever is necessary to
get vacuum to the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid (when the engine is idling) should solve your
EGR valve issue on your Ford (or Mercury, or Lincoln) car or truck.

(Part 2)
The second part of this test is to verify that the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is getting power (12
volts). The third part (TEST 6) is to test to see if it is allowing vacuum to pass thru' to the EGR valve
while you're driving the vehicle. For now, let's make sure its getting juice.
OK, this test can be performed with the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid connected or disconnected
from its connector. The test steps assume that you're testing the circuit with the connector connected
to the vacuum Solenoid:
1. Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.
2. Connect the RED Lead of the multimeter (with an appropriate tool) to the wire identified with a
number 2 in the photos of the image viewer.
4. Have an assistant turn the key on or start the vehicle and notice the voltage reading on the
multimeter.
CASE 1: If 12 Volts were present when the key was turned to On, This indicates that the power
circuit is good and delivering the goods to the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid. The next step is now
to dynamically test the EGR Valve Vacuum Regulator Solenoid, go to TEST 6
CASE 2: If 12 Volts were NOT present when the key was turned to On, re-check all of your
connections and multimeter setup. If the multimeter still does not register this voltage, you must find
out why these 12 Volts are missing. These missing 10 to 12 Volts will cause the check engine light
(CEL) to illuminate on your instrument cluster. Repairing the cause should solve your EGR valve
issue on your Ford car or truck.

(Part 3)
The third part of testing the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is done while road testing your Ford (or
Lincoln, or Mercury) car or truck. This test will let you know beyond a shadow of a doubt if the EGR
Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is BAD or not.
The engine in your Ford (or Lincoln, or Mercury) car or truck has to be at operating temperature
before you start your road-test. This is important, since with a cold engine, the PCM will not activate
the EGR valve system.
1. Disconnect the vacuum line or hose that is connected to the EGR valve (see photo 2 and 3 in
the image viewer).
2. Connect a piece of vacuum hose (that should be about 2 feet in length) to the vacuum line or
hose you just disconnected as shown in photo 3.
3. Snake the vacuum hose under the Hood and secure it under the wiper arm.
4. Connect a vacuum gauge to the end of the vacuum hose that's under the wiper arm.
5. The vacuum gauge must be in such a position that you can easily read the Gauge's needle as
you're driving down the road.
OK, your mission is to verify that the vacuum gauge's needle moves up to 5 in.Hg only when you start
to accelerate the car or truck (whether it's from a stand-still or you're already cruising). After the
needle moves up to 5 in.HG, the vacuum gauge's needle should always drop down (immediately) to
0 (zero) in.HG when you let go off the Accelerator Pedal.
CASE 1: If the vacuum gauge's needle moved up to 5 in.HG when you accelerated the vehicle
and then dropped to 0 in.HG when you released the accelerator pedal... this indicates beyond a
shadow of doubt that the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is working correctly.
CASE 2: If the vacuum gauge's needle DID NOT move up to 5 in.HG when you accelerated the
vehicle and then dropped to 0 in.HG when you released the accelerator pedal... this indicates that the
EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid is BAD, replace it.
TEST 7: Testing the DPFE 5 V REFERENCE SIGNAL
The PCM provides the DPFE sensor with 5 volts so that it can produce a PDFE sensor signal.
Without these 5 volts, the DPFE will not work at all. This test step checks for the presence of these 5
volts.
This test can only be done with a multimeter, do not use a test light.
1. Attach (with an appropriate tool) the RED multimeter lead to the wire labeled with the number
3.
3. Place the multimeter in DC Volts mode.
4. Have your assistant turn the key to On and notice the voltage reading on your multimeter.
5. The multimeter should read 5 volts.
CASE 1: If your multimeter registered 5 Volts: This indicates that the PCM is providing the 5 V
REFERENCE Signal to the DPFE. The next step is to verify that the PCM is providing a ground
return circuit for these 5 Volts, go to TEST 8.
CASE 2: If your multimeter DID NOT register 5 Volts: Re-check all of your connections and repeat
the test. The DPFE sensor will not work without this 5 V REFERENCE voltage and will set an EGR
fault code that will light up the check engine light (CEL) on your instrument cluster. Repairing the
cause of the missing 5 Volts will solve your EGR valve issue.
Some Tips and Suggestions

It's very rare for the DPFE Sensor to have any type of issue with its 5 V REFERENCE voltage circuit.
But if you do encounter this condition and you have triple-checked all of your multimeter's
connections and set-up, then the two most likely causes are:
1. An open short in the wire (that feeds these 5 Volts to the DPFE Sensor) between the PCM and
the DPFE sensor.
2. Or the PCM has fried.
Testing the two above conditions are beyond the scope of this article, but at least you have eliminated
the EGR valve, the DPFE sensor, and the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid as the cause of the EGR
valve system malfunction.
TEST 8: DPFE Sensor Ground Return
This test is a continuation of TEST 7... and here you're gonna' test the ground return circuit of the
DPFE sensor.
This ground (for the 5 V REFERENCE Signal) is provided by the PCM, so it's crucial that you take the
utmost care not to short this circuit to 12 volts as your are testing/verifying it. Use a multimeter for this
test and not a test light.
1. Attach (with an appropriate tool) the BLACK multimeter lead to the wire labeled with the
number 2.
2. Connect the RED lead of the multimeter to the battery positive terminal.
3. Place the multimeter in DC Volts mode.
4. Have your assistant turn the key to On and notice the voltage reading on your multimeter.
5. The multimeter should read 12 volts.
CASE 1: If your multimeter registered 10-12 Volts: This indicates that the PCM is providing a
DPFE sensor ground to the DPFE sensor. If you have gotten to this test by following the following
flow of testing: TEST 1, then TEST 2, then TEST 7... then this result indicates that the DPFE sensor
is BAD. Replace the DPFE sensor.
CASE 2: If your multimeter DID NOT register 10-12 Volts: Re-check all of your connections and
repeat the test. The DPFE sensor will not work without this ground (that the PCM provides) and will
set an EGR fault code that will light up the check engine light (CEL) on your instrument cluster.
Repairing the issue of this missing ground should solve your EGR valve fault code.
Some Tips and Suggestions

It's very rare for the DPFE Sensor to have any type of issue with its Ground Return Circuit. But if you
do encounter this condition and you have triple-checked all of your multimeter's connections and setup, then the two most likely causes are:
1. An open short in the wire (that feeds this ground to the DPFE Sensor) between the PCM and
the DPFE sensor.
2. Or the PCM has fried.
Testing the two above conditions are beyond the scope of this article, but at least you have eliminated
the EGR valve, the DPFE sensor, and the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid as the cause of the EGR
valve system malfunction.
Real Life Case Studies

from EasyAutoDiagnostics.com Readers
In this section is input and feedback from all of the folks who have had a similar issue with their
vehicle and found a solution. If you're one of them, thank you for sharing your experience with all of
us!
If you want to share your repair and/or diagnostic experience, you can use the contact form below.
Real Life Case Study 1

Vehicle: 1998 Ford F150 XLT
Trouble Codes: P0401.
Complaint: P0401
Test Notes/Repair: i read all of your suggestions and did everything as you stated. i carefully
followed all of your tests to get rid of that dreaded PO401 code.
however, after following all of them, what you failed to mention is that inside the throttle assembly
there are two small ports from the EGR valve. these ports were clogged completely. i had to remove
the throttle assembly and manually clean them. they were closed shut with carbon.
this solved my problem and i'm sure many others would appreciate this as well.
thanks for a great article!!!!!!!
Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor Test

(2.4L Mitsubishi)
October 27, 2014
Updated: December 04, 2014
Article Id: 472
1. Page 1
2. Page 2
3. Page 3
In this tutorial, I'll show you how to test the manifold differential pressure (MDP) sensor on your 2.4L
equipped Mitsubishi Galant (Eclipse or Expo) using a simple multimeter.
NOTE: The manifold pressure differential (MDP) sensor is usually mistaken for a MAP sensor.
Although they both function in the exact same manner... the MPD sensor is not used to help calculate
air flow (for fuel injection purposes). The MDP sensor is used as a feedback sensor for the EGR
system.
Tutorial contents at a quick glance:
Symptoms of a BAD MDP Sensor.
TEST 1: Checking the MDP Sensor Signal.
TEST 2: Verifying the MDP is Getting Power.
TEST 3: Verifying the MDP is Getting Ground.
MDP Sensor Code Won't Go Away.
Where to Buy the MDP Sensor and Save.
More 2.4L Mitsubishi Tutorials.
Symptoms of a BAD MDP Sensor

Your Mitsubishi's 2.4L engine's fuel system is not a speed density type where the PCM relies on a
manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor to help calculate the amount of air entering the engine (it
uses the MAF sensor for air flow measurement).... rather, the main purpose of the manifold
differential pressure (MDP) sensor is to monitor the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve.
Keeping the above in mind, manifold differential pressure (MDP) sensor issues are usually
accompanied by EGR system problems (but not always).
The most obvious symptom of a failed MDP sensor is the check engine light (CEL) will be shining
nice and bright. If your PCM is doing its job, you'll have a specific MDP sensor trouble code stored in
its memory (which you can retrieve with a scan tool or code reader).
Here's a list of the symptoms you'll see with a failed MDP sensor:
Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs):
P01400: Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor Circuit Failure.
P0400 EGR Valve Flow Failure.
Doesn't pass the smog check.
Let's jump into the first test in the next subheading...
TEST 1: Checking the MDP Sensor Signal
In this first test, we're gonna' check to see if the MDP sensor is creating a proper voltage signal when
we manually apply vacuum to it.
This is pretty easy test, but it does require that you apply vacuum to the MDP sensor. You can use a
vacuum pump or you can use your mouth.
NOTE: The ignition key must be in the On position and MDP sensor must remain connected to its
connector during this test.
OK, to get this show on the road, this is what you need to do:
1.1
Remove the MDP sensor from its place on the intake manifold.
2.2
Connect your vacuum pump to the MDP sensor's vacuum port using a vacuum
hose. Before you proceed to the next step, make sure the MDP sensor is connected
to its connector.
3.3
With your multimeter in Volts DC mode probe the wire that connects to the MDP
sensor connector terminal labeled with the number 1 (in the illustration above).
You'll need to use a tool like a wire piercing probe to access the signal inside the
wire. To see what a wire piercing probe looks like, go here: Wire Piercing Probe.
4.4
Ground the BLACK multimeter test lead directly on the battery negative
terminal.
5.5
Turn the Key on but don't start the engine. At this point your multimeter should
register about 3.8 to 4.0 Volts DC.
Now, pump the vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the MDP sensor. The voltage
should drop down to 1.1 Volts.
Repeat this test step several times and each time, you should see the same values
on your multimeter.
OK, let's take a look at what your vacuum pump test results mean:
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered the indicated voltages as you applied vacuum: This tells
you that the manifold differential pressure sensor is OK (not defective).
Now, if your vehicle still has the MDP sensor code lighting up the check engine on your instrument
cluster.. take a look at the section: MDP Code Won't Go Away for more info.
CASE 2: Your multimeter registered voltage, but it did not increase or decrease as you applied
vacuum: This confirms that the manifold differential pressure (MDP) sensor on your Mitsubishi is
BAD. Replacing the MDP sensor will solve the MDP sensor trouble code lighting up the check engine
light.
CASE 3: Your multimeter registered 0 Volts: This usually means that the MDP sensor is fried. To
be absolutely sure, I suggest confirming that the MDP sensor has power and ground. If both (power
and ground) are present, the MDP sensor is BAD. To test for power, go to TEST 2: Verifying the
Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor is Getting Power.
TEST 2: Verifying the

Manifold Differential Pressure is Getting Power
The manifold differential pressure (MDP) sensor is fed power by the by the wire that connects to the
MDP sensor connector terminal labeled with the number 3 in the illustration above.
This power is in the form of 5 Volts DC and is supplied by your 2.4L Mitsubishi's Powertrain Control
Module (PCM).
We can easily check to see if these 5 Volts are present by doing a simple multimeter voltage test.
These are the steps:
1.1
With your multimeter still in Volts DC mode from the previous test and the key on
(but engine off).
2.2
Probe the wire that connects to the MDP sensor connector terminal labeled with the
number 3, in the illustration above, with the RED multimeter lead.
You can test for these 5 Volts with the MDP sensor's electrical connector connected
to the MDP sensor or not... just avoid probing the front of the connector.
3.3
Now ground the multimeter's BLACK test lead on the battery's negative post.
4.4
Your multimeter should show you either:
1.) 5 Volts DC
2.) 0 Volts.
OK, now that the testing part is done... let's take a look at what your results mean:
CASE 1: Terminal #1, of the MDP sensor connector, has 5 Volts DC: This is the correct result and
it's starting to look like the MDP sensor is BAD but you still need to check that the MDP sensor is
getting ground. For the ground test, go to TEST 3: Verifying the MDP is Getting Ground.
CASE 2: Terminal #1, of the MDP sensor connector, DOES NOT have 5 Volts DC: This results
lets you know that the MDP sensor is not BAD, since without these 5 Volts DC, the MDP sensor can
not function.
Although it's beyond the scope of this article to troubleshoot the cause of these missing 5 Volts, you
have now eliminated the MDP sensor as BAD. Resolving the issue that is keeping these 5 Volts from
being supplied will solve the MDP sensor issue on your 2.4L Mitsubishi Galant (Eclipse or Expo).
TEST 3: Verifying the

Manifold Differential Pressure is Getting Ground
Ground is fed to the manifold differential (MDP) sensor thru' the wire that connects to the MDP
sensor connector terminal labeled with the number 2 in the illustration above.
Just like the 5 Volts you tested in TEST 2... ground is also supplied by your 2.4L Mitsubishi's
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The big difference here is that this wire can not be shorted
accidentally (or intentionally) to battery power or the PCM will get fried. Doing a voltage test with a
multimeter, as described in the test steps below, is a safe way to test this circuit.
These are the steps:
1.1
With your multimeter still in Volts DC mode from the previous test and the Key On
(but engine Off).
2.2
Probe the wire that connects to the terminal labeled with the number 2 in the
illustration above, with the BLACK multimeter lead.
It doesn't matter if you probe this circuit (wire) with the connector connected to the
MDP sensor or not, but do not probe the front of the connector (if you decide to
unplug the connector to test for this path to ground).
3.3
Now connect the multimeter's RED test lead on the battery's positive (+) Post.
4.4
Your multimeter should show you either:
1.) 12 Volts DC
2.) 0 Volts.
OK, let's take a look at what your results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 12 Volts: This is the normal result and it means that the
manifold differential pressure (MDP) sensor your 2.4L equipped Mitsubishi is fried and needs to be
replaced.
Here's why: In MDP sensor TEST 1 and 2, you verified that the MDP sensor is not producing the
correct values (when you applied vacuum) and that it does have power. Since in this test step you
have confirmed that the MDP sensor does have a solid path to ground... these results, interpreted
together, indicate that the MDP sensor is BAD.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts: double check your multimeter connections
and repeat the test... if your multimeter results still do not indicate 12 Volts, then the manifold
differential pressure (MDP) sensor is not fried and not the cause of the MDP sensor diagnostic
trouble code (DTC) issue.
Here's why: Without a good path to ground, that the PCM provides internally, the MDP sensor will not
work. With this test result, you have eliminated the MDP sensor as BAD
MDP Sensor Code Won't Go Away

So you've tested the manifold differential pressure (MDP) sensor and according to the test results, it's
good... But the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT keeps coming back on even after you erased the diagnostic
trouble code (DTC). Well, here in this section are a couple of suggestions that might inspire your next
diagnostic move.
Probably the most helpful thing to keep in mind is that the manifold differential pressure sensor
(MDP) on your 2.4L Mitsubishi is just used as a feedback sensor. The feedback it sends the PCM is
on the EGR system. Specifically, it helps confirm EGR flow into the intake manifold when the PCM
commands the EGR valve to open.
So if the MDP sensor tested good (or you've replaced it) and you're still getting a trouble code for it,
then:
There's a good chance that an EGR passage/tube is

plugged up and not letting the exhaust gas recirculate.
The EGR valve itself is bad (internal diaphragm is ruptured and
not opening the pintle to let exhaust gas recirculate).
The EGR Vacuum Solenoid is bad.
Not sure if the MDP sensor fits your particular vehicle? Don't worry, once you get to the site
they'll make sure it fits by asking you the specifics of your particular Mitsubishi vehicle. If it
doesn't fit... they'll find you the right MDP sensor.

How To Test The Rear O2 Heater

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How To Test The Rear O2 Heater

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How to Test the Rear O2 Heater -P0141

(1998-2002 1.8L Corolla)

P0138....O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2

Typical oxygen sensor wiring color codes.

Oxygen Sensor Q & A

How does a downstream O2 sensor monitor converter efficiency?

Downstream Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 12) Pinout

Heater Ground (-)

Heater Power (+)

TEST 1: Verifying the Heater

TEST 2: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance

Where to Buy the Oxygen Sensor and Save Some $$$

How To Test the TP Sensor

Where to Buy the TPS and Save.

Basics of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

1.8L Toyota Corolla TPS Circuits

Throttle Position Signal

TEST 1: Checking the

TEST 2: Checking Throttle

TEST 3: Checking Throttle

Front Oxygen Sensor Heater Test -P0135

Upstream Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 11) Pinout

Heater Ground (-)

Heater Power (+)

TEST 1: Verifying the Heater Element is Getting Power

recommendation here: Buying a Digital Multimeter for Automotive Diagnostic

TEST 2: Verifying the Heater Element is Getting Ground

TEST 3: Testing the Heater Element's Resistance

How to Test the MAF Sensor

Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor

What Tools Do I Need to Test the MAF Sensor?

If you need to upgrade or buy a multimeter, check out my recommendation:

What Does the MAF Sensor Do?

MAF Sensor Connector Pin Out

Fused power (12 Volts)

Blue w/ White stripe

MAF sensor ground (PCM)

MAF sensor signal

Yellow w/ Black stripe

Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor

Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor

TEST 1: Checking the MAF Sensor Power Circuit

2. Locate the wire identified with the number 1.

TEST 2: Checking the MAF Sensor Ground Circuit

2. Locate the wire identified with the number 2.

TEST 3: Checking the MAF Sensor Signal

This is the Green wire of the MAF sensor connector.

MAF Test Summary

How to Test the Fuel Pump In 2 Tests

Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pump

TEST 1: Using Starting Fluid To Confirm Lack of Fuel

TEST 2: Checking Fuel

How To Test The TPS

Symptoms of a Bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

TEST 1: Testing the TPS Voltage Signal

TEST 2: Verifying TPS Has Power

TEST 3: Verifying TPS Has Ground

One: Is not creating an appropriate throttle position signal (TEST 1).

3. The TPS is being fed ground.

25-pin data link connector diagnostics

Figure 1 - Connection Diagram

Figure 2 - Connecting 'TEN' to 'GND'.

How to perform the test