All Natural Horse Care

All Natural Horse Care E-book
give your horse the best care, naturally
Covers all aspects of Natural Horse Care

including Natural Boarding, Horsemanship, Health and Hoof Care
About this book

This book is created from the information on the All Natural Horse Care website, and
includes Quick Links on the outside edge of each page which will take you to the
relevant webpage. If you have the pdf version you will be able to click on those links (just
move your mouse over the link and click) and the page will automatically open in your
web browser. The All Natural Horse Care website is continually being updated so is always
worth visiting for new information.
Also, in the pdf version, you can jump to any section you want from the content page
- just click on the topic of your choice and you will be taken to that page. To return to the
contents page just click on the back to contents arrow at the bottom of each page.
All Natural Horse Care ebook

Copyright 2009. All rights reserved worldwide.
No part of this ebook may be reproduced or given away without the written permission of the publisher and/or authors.
The information contained within these pages is intended for educational purposes only, and not for diagnosing or medicinally
prescribing in any way. Readers are cautioned to seek expert advice from a qualified health professional before pursuing any
form of treatment for their animals. Opinions expressed herein are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of
the publisher. All Natural Horse Care accepts no liability of any kind for any losses or damages caused or alleged to be caused,
directly or indirectly, from using the information contained in this book.
www.all-natural-horse-care.com
All Natural Horse Care

Do you want to provide the best life possible for your horse? Then All Natural Horse
Care will show you how! We focus on putting the horses needs first by taking a wholistic
approach and allowing him to be a horse - which is by far the best gift you can give him.
For those who have only ever known conventional horse keeping methods, this approach
may at first seem to go against almost everything you know. This is because convention
methods tend to have developed from the human perspective - things that make it
easier for the human, such as rugging to keep a horse clean, or stabling because we like
to live inside so we think the horse does too. However, this does not meet your horses
physiological needs.
Horses are prey animals who are happiest when living in wide open spaces and in a herd.
They dont care about fancy rugs and expensive stalls. They just need the social contact
of equals, room to stretch their legs and to be a horse. By allowing them to do this you
will have a horse that is less stressed, more althletic and overall much healthier.
This ebook aims to provide information about all aspects of natural horse care in one
convenient location. That way you can make informed choices easily and you dont
have to waste precious time seeking information - time you can spend developing your
relationship with your horse instead!
Natural horse care is my passion. For me it has been a wonderful journey and has
opened my eyes up to a whole other world that goes way beyond just horses. I would
love to share that with you. Youll be surprised by how just making small changes can
Testimonials
Hello, what a wonderful site!
Very concise and easy to read
with great info on everything
natural for horses. I have been
involved in natural therapies
and training with horses for the
past 11 years. I am constantly
searching for new and upto-the-minute techniques or
advancements in the field
of natural horse care and
psychology. Congratulations
on your site. Very nice to have
found you guys.
Best wishes, Sascha
I am happy to have stumbled
across your site. It has
a whole bunch of great
information with good
diagrams.
dramatically improve not only your horses quality of life but often his lifespan too.
I have been trimming my
Find answers to the following questions, plus much, much more:
now and I am always looking
How can I modify my horses living conditions to provide a more natural lifestyle?
How can I tell how healthy my horses hooves are?
Which training method will help overcome barriers and improve my relationship with
my horse?
What feeds and supplements are best for my horses needs?
own horse for about a year

for more information.
Thanks Debbie
I love your site, it is an
excellent resource.
Thank you, Anne
You have an amazing gift
of making things that are
typically hard to understand,
easy to understand.
Dean
Back to Contents
Contents
Introduction
Quick Links
About the Author........................ 5

Natural Health............................ 6
Feeding.................................. 6
Vitamins & Minerals................. 8
Herbs...................................10
Supplements.........................11
Natural Boarding.......................13
Herdlife.................................13
Living Outside........................13
Movement.............................15
Paddock Paradise...................16
Natural Trim..............................20
Hoof Diagrams.......................21
Coffin Bone photos.................23
Hoof Evaluation......................25
Taking Good Hoof Photos.........30
Equine Hoof Problems

& Photo Consultations.............33
Barefoot Hooves in Action........34

Trim Styles................................36
Applied Equine Podiatry...........36
Soft-Ride Comfort Boot...........73

Saber Sneaker Rehab Boot......74
Castle Plastics Hoof Boot.........75
Hoofix Emergency Boot...........76
Equine Slipper.......................77
Riding Boots
Boa Horse Boot......................78
Easyboot Bare.......................79
Marquis Hoof Boot..................80
Old Macs..............................81
Easyboot Epic........................82
Renegade Hoof Boot...............83
Hoofwing Hoof Boot................84
Easyboot Grip........................85
Simple Boot...........................86
Swiss Horse Boot...................87
Easyboot Glove......................88
Horse-Mocs...........................89
Glue On Boots
Easyboot Glue On...................90
Marquis Glue On.....................91
Renegade Glue On..................92
Gene Ovnicek........................39
Natural Horsemanship...............93
LIM Trim...............................42
Common Hoof Disorders............46
Laminitis/Founder...................46
Navicular...............................52
Forward Foot Syndrome..........55
Toe Rocker............................58
Hoof Boots.................................62
Soaking Boots
Davis Horse Boot....................69
EasySoaker...........................70
Smart Soaking Boot................71
Easyboot RX..........................72
Barefoot For Soundness..........38

Pete Ramey...........................41
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Therapy Boots
Mark Rashid...........................94
Tom Dorrance........................95
Brent Graef...........................96
Linda Tellington-Jones.............97
Monty Roberts.......................98
Homemade Rope
Halter Instructions....................99
Horse Facts............................. 102
Glossary.................................. 105
About the Author

My name is Jenny Edwards and I am the owner and creator of All Natural Horse Care. I
was born in Canada, but lived in the UK until my mid 30s.
Quick Links
I have been involved with horses most of my life and have competed in many different
disciplines including the European Championship for Western Riding in Munich in 1988.
I started out my career working at a large riding stable, where I was introduced to many
different horse activities including: English (dressage, cross-country, show jumping,
showing, quarter horse racing and general pleasure riding) and Western (showmanship,
horsemanship, pleasure, trail, western riding, reining and trail riding) styles; breeding;
teaching and training (both English and Western).
About Us:
In 1990 I decided to undertake a career change as I wanted to spend more time with my
www.all-natural-horse-care.
own animals so I retrained, becoming a graphic designer.
com/Jenny_Edwards.html
In 2005 I decided to move back to Canada with my three horses - Tuff n Classy Two,
Contact:
Charlie and Pip, plus my two cats and two dogs - to fulfill my dream of having my own
farm.
com/contact.html
I have always been of the opinion that all animals in our care should lead as natural a
life as possible, but I really got into the natural horse movement after my horse Tuffy
was lamed by a farrier in 2000. After trying and failing to fully recover his health with
traditional methods for treating the ensuing laminitis and rotation I came across the
barefoot movement. This journey opened me up to so many wonderful experiences and I
have never looked back.
Since 2000 I have been learning all I can about barefoot trimming methods and I now put
that knowledge to good use by offering a trimming service to horses in my area.
My six horses (I have since adopted another four, Zeus, Jasper and Sparky (who
are rescues/rehabs) and Montana - more information below) live as natural a life as
possible utilizing the Paddock Paradise system. I keep them all barefoot and ride in
treeless saddles and bitless bridles. They eat a natural grass (and grass hay) diet with
some supplements and are only wormed when necessary. I do not have them routinely
vaccinated, apart from a ten yearly tetanus shot.
I would like to take this opportunity to say a big thank you to Andrew, my very supportive
other half. His love and unfailing support - and many carpentry talents - have enabled
me to achieve all this, and together we try to provide all of our animals with the best life
possible.
Back to Contents
Natural Horse Health - for a healthy body

Natural horse health covers many topics including feeding, supplements, natural horse
Quick Links
remedies, herbs, alternative therapies, natural horse vets, horse vaccines and worming.
Horse Health:
Feeding for Natural Horse Health
com/natural-horse-health.html
The horse feeding industry is a big money business but in many cases it is not based on
the natural requirements (or best interest) of the horse.
Horse Feeding:
Horses are foragers/grazers who in the wild, would travel over great distances to obtain
com/horse-feeding.html
food and water as the wild grasses are low in nutrition. In its natural environment the
horse grazes for approximately 18-20 hours per day. The relatively small stomach and
Supplements:
large gut are perfectly suited for this. If the stomach is left empty for prolonged periods
(as often happens with stabled horses) the stomach lining can become damaged.
com/horse-hoof-supplement.
html
The majority of the food digestion takes place by bacteria in the large intestine. These
bacteria continually reproduce and are kept at appropriate levels by the movement of
Vitamins & Minerals:
the gut contents. If the food intake is reduced then the bacteria levels become out of
balance which could result in colic. Also as there are different types of bacteria needed for
com/natural-horse-vitamins.
processing different food substances sudden changes in diet can cause gut disturbances
html
and lead to colic. Grain is not easily digested by the horse as it did not encounter it in the
wild so the digestive system is not evolved to cope with it.
Jiaogulan:
Therefore the safest diet to feed to a horse is grass or grass hay on a free choice basis.
com/Jiaogulan.html
However, due to current farming practices which aim to increase the nutritional value
of pasture grasses, many fields are now too rich for safe grazing. This means that you
Paddock Paradise:
may have to restrict the amount of grass available to your horse (see ideas on how to do
this on the Paddock Paradise page) to prevent illnesses such as laminitis which can be
com/paddock-paradise.html
triggered by high levels of sugar in the grass. Hay is a much safer alternative to be used
when horse feeding and it can also be soaked in clean, warm water for 30 minutes (or for
an hour in cold water) before feeding to further reduce the sugar levels if necessary.
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Average calorie needs for a mature 1,100lbs horse:

Maintenance:
16.4Mcal = 19lbs hay (approx 2% of body weight)
Breeding Stallion:
20.5Mcal = 25lbs hay
Mare, late pregnancy:
Mare, lactating
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(first 3 months):
Mare, lactating
24.3Mcal = 28.5lbs hay
(after 3 months):
Light work:
Medium work:
Heavy work:
32.8Mcal = 38.5lbs hay
(from The Horse Journal: Guide to Equine Supplements and Nutraceuticals by Eleanor
Kellon, VMD).
Eating Position
The horses body has evolved to work most efficiently when eating at ground height.
When a horse puts its head down to eat the lower jaw drops forward and then when the
horse lifts its head to chew the jaw slides back. This forward and backward motion helps
to grind the teeth and keep them at the optimum length. Obviously this does not occur
when the horse is fed from a hay net or rack. This is why it is important to provide food
at ground level. Here is a website that has some great ideas on how to accomplish this:
www.swedishhoofschool.com/hayfeeders.htm
The airway is also designed to work best when the head is held long and low. A high head
position puts a bend in the airway which impedes inhaled air. This means that any foreign
particles that are inhaled, such as dust from hay, are more likely to hit the walls of the
airway and embed in the mucous membranes. This in turn allows germs and viruses to
enter the tissues.
The horses spine is suspended between the withers and is raised and lowered by the
tension created through the ligaments when the head is raised and lowered. By feeding
from the ground there is less strain on the muscles to maintain a correct posture.
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Vitamins and Minerals
Quick Links
All horses need certain vitamins and minerals for a variety of body function and many
are vital to good health. However, healthy horses on good pasture usually dont need
Horse Health:
any extra vitamins, except maybe for vitamin E if the horse is working very hard. But
when horses are on a grass hay diet, supplementation of vitamin E at 1,000 IU per day is
com/natural-horse-health.html
beneficial (2,000 IU if in hard work).
Horse Feeding:
Minerals are slightly more complicated as they can compete with each other for
absorption so they need to be feed in the correct amounts in relation to each other.
com/horse-feeding.html
Ca:P (Calcium:Phosphorus) ratio should be between 2:1 and 1.2:1
Supplements:
Ca:Mg (Calcium:Magnesium) ratio should be 2:1
Cu:Fe (Copper:Iron) ratio should be 1:4
com/horse-hoof-supplement.
Cu:Zn:Mn (Copper:Zinc:Manganese) ratio should be between 1:3:3 to 1:5:5
html
Before supplementing any vitamins and minerals it is best to find out what amounts your
Vitamins & Minerals:
horse is already getting through his current diet. To do this you can get your pasture
and/or hay analyzed. See the article on supplements for more details.
html
Below is a list of vitamins and minerals with a short description of ways in which they can
be beneficial to your horse.
Jiaogulan:
com/Jiaogulan.html
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)

Used to fight infection and help with snake bites.
Paddock Paradise:
Available forms
Powdered and injectable.

Available from www.herbcom.com for approx $14 per pound.
Dosage
As a preventative: 20g twice a day for an adult horse.
With an active illness or infection: 20g four times a day for an adult horse.
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Magnesium
Useful in horses and ponies with cresty necks and fat deposits as the magnesium helps
break them down. In a normal diet the ratio of calcium to magnesium should be 2:1.
Horses can suffer from a magnesium deficiency if the diet contains too much calcium in
relation to the magnesium.
Quick Links
Herbs & Minerals:
www.herbcom.com
Available forms
Organic or chelated (those found in foods, such as magnesium gluconate and magnesium
asparatate) and inorganic (found in the soil, such as magnesium sulfate and magnesium
oxide). The organic forms are more readily absorbed.
Human feed grade quality magnesium is available from www.herbcom.com for around
$9 per pound or you can get an animal feed grade - which is not as pure as it is only
guaranteed at 56% magnesium - manufactured by Pestell (called either CalMag or
BayMag) from your feed store. I personally use Pestells CalMag and it is around $15 for a
25kg bag.
Dosage
Start with approx 3 grams per day for a small pony and up to 12 grams for a large/heavy
horse for the first three weeks when you should see signs of changes in the fat deposits.
Then the dose can be halved for 6 - 8 weeks and once the fat has normalized then a
maintenance dose should be calculated based on hay/grass analysis.
Salt and Iodine

Horses need to have salt available to them at all times. In the summer they need it to
replace the salt lost through sweating and in winter they need it to ensure they drink
enough water to prevent colic.
Loose salt is best as it is hard for the horse to get enough salt from a salt block and salt
blocks often contain other minerals that are detrimental to the horse when consumed in
the large quantities needed to get the correct dosage of salt.
Iodine is also very important for the horse so I use iodized table salt directly into their
feed bucket - that way I know they are getting enough salt. Also by providing 2 oz of
iodized salt you will ensure that the daily requirement for iodine is met.
Dosage
At least 2 oz a day in summer (can be up to 3-4 oz if working hard in hot weather) and at
least 1 oz a day in winter.
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Herbs
Quick Links
Herbs can be very beneficial for a range of conditions and illnesses. Below is a list of such
herbs:
Equine Cushings/IR:
http://pets.groups.yahoo.
Jiaogulan - (Gynostemma pentaphyllum)
com/group/EquineCushings
Jiaogulan (jow-goo-lawn) grows wild in China, as well as many other countries

throughout Asia, and is known there as the immortality herb as it has such a long list of
rejuvenating properties.
It is classed as an adaptogen - a herb that helps your body without causing any harm or
imbalance. It has also been called the herbal heart defender due to the positive effects
this herb has on cardio-vascular health.
Japanese scientists began discovering its illness-prevention and therapeutic qualities in
the late 1970s. They found that it functions as both an adaptogenic and an antioxidant
herb and it contains many health giving saponins (chemical compounds which have a
soapy characteristic), as well as amino acids, trace minerals, proteins and vitamins.
These saponins are responsible for the herbs effectiveness as an anti-inflammatory.
Recent trials by Eleanor Kellon VMD on the Equine Cushing Yahoo Egroup http://pets.
groups.yahoo.com/group/EquineCushings have shown that Jiaogulan helps address the
problems with circulation during laminitis that can contribute to pain and delay healing.
It must, however only be used after you have identified and removed the cause of the
laminitis and applied a rigorous hoof care regime.
If the horse or pony is insulin resistant or has Cushings disease then these issues need to
be dealt with first.
Dosage
An approximate dosage would be in the region of 1/2-2 tsp per day of the powdered form
for a 1000 lb horse. However, this is a wide range and some horses do better with less
so you will need to adjust for your horse. Increased energy levels and alertness are key
signs of improvement. Ideally it should be administered twice a day (halving the daily
dosage) 20 minutes before feeding.
Precautions
Do not use with bute or flunixine as they may block or counteract the effect.
If used at the same time as other adaptogenic herbs (ie ginsengs) the effect may be
counteracted or enhanced so dosage adjustments may be necessary.
Do not use with other vasodilating drugs.
May not work if used with other laminitis supplements.
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10
Supplements
There are now so many horse supplements available - many of which claim to improve
Quick Links
the condition of the hooves offering an almost overnight improvement. But are these
Safer Grass:
claims true? And how can you tell if your horse really needs a supplement?
www.safergrass.org
Lets look at it in a logical fashion. The most visible part of the hoof, the outer hoof
Hay Analysis
wall, tends to grow on average about 1cm (3/8) per month. This growth originates
www.uenutrition.com/
at the coronary band at the top of the hoof and works its way down to the ground,
hayanaalysis.cfm
taking approximately 9 months to grow an entirely new hoof. So logically, if there is any
www.equi-analytical.com
improvement from feeding a horse hoof supplement it is only going to show up in the
new growth and you will need to keep feeding it for at least 2-3 months before you will
really see if it is working or not.
So if the product claims instant improvement then a warning bell should be ringing...
How can I tell if its working?
The easiest way is by studying the outside of the hoof - as the outer hoof wall is a great
indicator of hoof health. If it is smooth and solid looking then you probably have a pretty
healthy hoof, nutrition-wise, so a horse hoof supplement is not required.
However if you have wrinkles, ridges or cracks then this is the hoofs way of telling you
that you need to look deeper into the nutritional needs of your horse.
Poor hoof quality is often a direct result of the horse not getting adequate amounts of
the essential nutrients it requires. But how do you find out what is lacking? Well, first
you need to look at what you are feeding your horse. Is it biologically correct, ie is it the
types of food that the horse has evolved to eat? Horses have evolved to be foragers and
need to eat small amounts almost constantly so their ideal diet is grass or grass hay.
However, grass can vary greatly in its nutritional composition as it is dependent on the
minerals available in the soil. So if your soil is deficient in a certain mineral then the
grass will also be deficient. See www.safergrass.org for lots of great info on the subject of
grass.
The best way to find out what your grass or hay contains is to get an analysis done at
either www.equi-analytical.com or www.uenutrition.com/hayanaalysis.cfm which is pretty
easy to do and only costs around $35-$40.
Once you have the results you will then have a much better idea of what nutrients your
horse is currently getting and you will be able to make an informed decision on the
appropriate horse hoof supplement to give. If you dont get your grass or hay tested then
11
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you have no idea of what might be lacking and you will more than likely end up wasting
Quick Links
lots of money (as most of the horse hoof supplements are very expensive) and not
getting any positive results.
Mineral Suppliers:
www.horsetech.com
Custom supplements
www.uckeleequinenutrition.
Once you have your analysis you then have two choices. The first is to find an off the
com
shelf horse hoof supplement that provides the missing nutrients. This may be easier said
than done as a lot of supplements dont contain the correct ratio of minerals. If the ratio
Consultations:
balance between minerals is incorrect the body wont be able to use them properly and
www.drkellon.com
this could lead to other problems.

The second choice is not quite as simple but it is the most cost-effective and will ensure
that your horse gets everything he needs and that is to design a custom mineral
supplement. You can either do this yourself or there are companies like Horsetech
www.horsetech.com or Uckele www.uckeleequinenutrition.com who will do it for you.
If you do decide to do it yourself please make sure you fully understand the calculations
and order the correct amounts of each mineral as the wrong figures could seriously harm
your horse. To avoid this you can use the services of Dr Kellon www.drkellon.com who,
for around $100, will do a consultation for you.
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12
Natural Boarding - for a healthy mind, body & spirit

Natural boarding recognizes the fact that horses are herd animals who need the company
of other horses 24 hours a day. They need to interact by touching and playing. Through
evolution as a herd animal, horses are programmed to know that safety is in numbers. So a
solitary horse is often a stressed horse.
Natural boarding methods are based on the study of how horses live in the wild. They are
designed to meet the basic physiological needs of the horse and are the foundation of all
natural horse care.
Below is a list of the horses natural lifestyle needs:
Quick Links
Natural Boarding:
com/natural-boarding.html
Herdlife:
com/herdlife.html
Living Outside:
Herdlife - the company of other horses/ponies

Horses are very social animals so herdlife is very important to them. In the wild their lives
often depend on it. They feel safer in open spaces where they can see all around them. As
com/living-outside-year-round.
html
prey animals they have evolved to rely on safety in numbers - the more eyes watching out for
predators the better!
Horses that are stabled and deprived of contact with other horses often develop vices such
as wind sucking and weaving. They can become depressed and withdraw into themselves.
Sometimes they become aggressive. These vices are the only way they are able to express
themselves. When the horse is put under such stress then the digestive and immune systems
are affected making the horse more susceptible to illness and disease.
Given enough space horses love to romp, play and hang out together. This also helps develop
social skills that help keep harmony in the herd. In the wild most horse families are made up
of a single stallion and a number of mares. One of these mares will be the stallions favourite.
She will be dominant (the alpha mare) and lead the herd, including the stallion. Within the
rest of the group there will be a pecking order which is established through daily interactions.
Horses also like to groom each other. This helps to get to those itchy spots that they cant
reach by themselves. Often they will stand head to tail so that they can swat flies away from
each others faces. This is why it is important for them to have the company of equals rather
than other species such as cows or sheep.
Living outside year round, with no clothes on...

Horses have developed an extremely efficient thermoregulatory system in their skin. It is
through the skin that the horse gains information about the environment. But for it to work
properly they need to have constant access to that environment which is why horses are
healthier living outside year round.
13
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Each individual hair in a horses coat has a small muscle attached to it. This enables the
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horse to raise and lower the hairs to change the thickness of the coat. When the horse is
cold it will raise the hairs so they can trap a layer of warm air. The air is warmed by the
heat loss from the horses skin and the hairs prevent the air from escaping. As the horse
warms up the coat will be flattened. This in turn decreases the amount of insulation and
varies the amount of airflow to the skin.
Just like any other muscle the hair muscles need to be exercised to perform properly.
When a horse is kept in a stable in a fairly constant temperature the muscles do not get
exercised. This impacts on the horse when the rug is taken off when going for a ride.
Suddenly the horse is subjected to much lower temperatures and its muscles arent able
to respond effectively.
When a rug is put on the horse the hairs are forced to lie flat. This means that the horse
no longer has control over regulating its temperature. Often the horse gets too hot
under the rug and it is helpless to do anything about it. However the uncovered parts
of the horse still get cold so the horse tries to warm them up which in turn make the
areas under the rug even hotter. If the horse starts sweating under the rug it lowers the
temperature too much as the moisture is trapped and the horses system will suffer. As a
result the chemical processes within the horse may be partially disabled which will allow
diseases such as colds and flu to take hold.
Horses can also generate heat through muscle action when moving. This is another good
reason for allowing horses to live outside where they have space to move around. Or if
the horse doesnt want to move it can create the same effect by shivering as this also
generates heat through muscle use.
Rugging and stabling a horse prevents the horse from growing a thicker coat in the
winter. Also too much grooming can strip the coat of its natural greases which are there
to keep it waterproofed. So try to avoid over grooming in the winter and keep bathing to
a minimum.
Horses are adapted to deal with colder conditions. It is much easier for them to warm up
than to cool down. Unlike a dog, a horse cannot use panting to lower its temperature. It
relies mainly on sweating. The sweat glands secrete fluid which cools the skin surface as
it evaporates. The sweaty horse will raise the hairs in its coat and turn them in different
directions to allow the air to dry the sweat. In a stable there is very little airflow so the
sweat takes longer to dry which can lead to chilling.
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14
Movement - over varied terrain

This is very important to the horses well-being. In the wild, they live in areas where feed
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and water is often scarce. So to survive they need to continually travel to seek out food
Movement
and water. They also move around whilst playing and establishing rank order. The horse
has led this lifestyle for millions of years and their physiological makeup has evolved to
com/movement.html
support this. Its heart is relatively small compared to its body so it needs help from the
muscles and joints to keep blood flowing through the body.
When a horse is stabled the circulatory system is not fully functioning and the heart can
be over-stressed. This is often made worse when short but intense exercise is given.
Movement also helps stimulate gain in bone density. This is particularly important for
foals and young horses.
Varied terrain stimulates the hooves and conditions them at the same time. Gravel is
good for this. If your horse is getting enough movement then the hooves will start to
maintain themselves. This is call self-trimming. Hills and rocks will help develop tendons
and muscles and aid the horse in becoming more surefooted.
Access to grazing (or grass hay) 24/7

See horse feeding.
Free access to shelter

You need to provide your horse with somewhere that he can go to get out of extreme
weather conditions. In the winter that means somewhere he can get a break from the
wind, rain or snow. In the summer, somewhere he can go to get out of the sun or away
from biting insects.
Horses dont tend to like enclosed spaces so free access to a run-in shed or barn with
more than one opening is best. Trees and hills can also provide shelter and wind-breaks
and some horses will prefer these to man-made structures.
For tips on building a run-in shed (and lots of other practical horse keeping ideas) visit
www.practicalhorsekeeping.com
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Free access to clean water
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Horses need access to clean water at all times. This is really important in the winter as
Paddock Paradise:
they can get impaction colic if they are not consuming enough water when eating hay.
To encourage them to drink enough you can add extra salt to their meals (either in their
bucket or sprinkled on the hay). Many horses prefer water that is slightly warm so a
heated waterer is also a good investment in the colder months.
If you need an automatic waterer here is a great review - by Annie at www.ride-thesunshine-glow.com - of the MiraFount
Jaime Jackson, who has carried out extensive studies of wild horses has written a book
called Paddock Paradise which is a fantastic resource if you are looking to create a natural
setup.
Paddock Paradise
Paddock Paradise is an exciting new natural boarding concept based on Jaime Jacksons
research into how horses live in the wild. It is a ground-breaking idea which has many
benefits including:
provides a more stimulating environment for the horse which discourages vices
encourages more movement which benefits overall health of the horse
enables easier grazing management
How did Pasture Paradise evolve?
Jaime Jackson is a farrier who, between 1982 and 1986, undertook studies of feral horses
interacting in their natural environment.
These studies revealed that feral horses rarely suffered from hoof problems such as
laminitis or navicular which commonly affect our domestic horses.
So, based on what he saw in the wild, he started experimenting with trimming
parameters for domestic horses that reflected the natural hoof and which would allow
them to remain barefoot.
In 1990 he stopped using shoes on horses and started promoting the wild horse trim.
He published his first book in 1992, The Natural Horse: Lessons from the Wild which
documented his wild horse studies and offered insights as to how we could better meet
the biological needs of our domestic horses.
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In 1999 he went on to write the Horse Owners Guide to Natural Hoof Care which went
into more detail regarding his trim methods.
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Paddock Paradise: A Guide to Natural Horse Boarding was published in 2007 and Jaime
describes it as the key to having physically and mentally healthier horses.
Heres how Pasture Paradise works:
Instead of housing our horses in regular square or oblong fields where they just stand
in one spot and eat, and eat, and eat, an additional inside fence is added to create a
track system. See diagram on left.
The track width can vary - the narrower the track the more the horses will move.
However you dont want it too narrow if you have more than 2 horses as one may get
cornered by a more dominant horse.
Now this may sound like a lot of work and expense but it can be done quite cheaply and
quickly using electric fencing and is well worth the effort when you see how much happier
and healthier your horse is.
Heres how we made our Paddock Paradise:
When we moved to this property there were no existing fences so I was able to design
our track system from scratch. We are very lucky to have approximately 30 acres of
pasture but with only 4 horses and 2 ponies I wanted to reduce the amount of grazing
whilst keeping the track as long as possible to encourage maximum movement.
Initially we used both plastic and metal step-in electric fence posts for the
inside and outside fences. However, I soon found that the shop-bought
posts were not adequate for a Canadian winter! With up to 3 feet of snow
the posts disappear as they tend to only be 3ft long and the horses just
step over the fence, not good...
So we did a bit of brainstorming and came up with the idea of making our
own using 6 x 2 x 10ft spruce, cutting it to 5ft lengths, then cutting into
3 to end up with 2 x 2 x 5ft posts. Then we cut a spike onto one end to
make them easier to pound into the ground and added 2 plastic electric
fence insulators (see pic - left). The total cost per post worked out to
around $1 (CAN) which is cheaper than the store bought ones.
We used the electric fence poly rope on the top of the outside fence, with
electric fence wire on the bottom and inside track. The rope is better than
tape as it doesnt get twisted or flap in the wind but is still very visible.
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We tied surveyors tape all along the wire to make it more visible but the wind tends to
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bunch it up by the posts. The only time the horses have a problem with seeing the wire
is if you move the fence and they dont get to see the changes until its dark. Otherwise
once they know where it is they dont seem to have a problem with it. We do use the
lighter gauge wire that will break relatively easily, just in case they should run into it.
Our track incorporates the natural features of our property: a creek for hoof soaking;
areas of gravel and rock to toughen up the hooves; hills for conditioning; trees for
scratching and shade; and two mud areas designated for rolling.
Here is an aerial view of our Paddock Paradise track (left). As you can see it is quite long,
with two loops. I have tried to avoid sharp corners so that there is a better flow - Monty,
our young Paint x TB thinks that the loop on the bottom right is his own personal race
track...he loves to run like the wind down the straight sections.
I am amazed by how much more they move since implementing the track system.
They all look as if they are worked regularly which makes me feel less guilty for not
having time to ride as often as Id like!
The horses also have free access to a large stone barn run-in which has a concrete
floor and rubber mats. This is great in the summer as the stone walls keep it nice
and cool, whilst they also provide good insulation in the winter. The horses like to
hang out in here when the flies are bad as it has a nice through-wind which keeps
the flies at bay.
I am totally convinced by the benefits of Paddock Paradise and highly recommend
you try it for your horses.
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Here are a few more Paddock Paradise examples:

Mustang Mountain and Missouri Paradise
wildhooves.wordpress.com
Mustang Mountain, otherwise known as Stars Rest, is located on the side of a mountain
in northeastern New Mexico. It is at 7,600 elevation and the terrain varies from steep
granite bluff to rolling sandy bottom. It is surrounded by ponderosa pine forest and there
is no pasture land.
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Mustang Mountain
wildhooves.wordpress.com
Winsconsin Paradise:
http://thenaturalhoof.
homestead.com/
paddockparadise.html
Stars Rests formerly wild mustangs are fed free choice local grass hay and just enough
beet pulp to provide them with necessary supplements. They are all kept barefoot and
have no difficulty climbing up and even galloping over the rugged mountain terrain. In
spite of dire predictions of lameness and injury from keeping horses on this rugged piece
of land, our little bachelor band has just gotten stronger, healthier and happier.
Missouri Paradise consists of approximately 12 acres made up of mostly hardwood forest
along with 4 acres of pasture and is home to 4 horses.
Wisconsin Paradise
http://thenaturalhoof.homestead.com/paddockparadise.html
This site shows how a single paddock can be altered to create more interest and
encourage the horses to move more. A track has been built around the edge and rock has
been added to give a more varied terrain.
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Natural Hoof Trimming - for a sounder horse

Natural hoof trimming, natural hoofcare and barefoot trimming are all terms used to
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describe a method of trimming that enables horses to be kept and ridden without shoes.
There are many different styles of trim but they are mostly all based on the wild horse
model.
Natural hoofcare is about more than just a trim method, however. It is a holistic approach
to hoof care which takes into account the living conditions and the terrain that the horse
encounters on a regular basis. The trim is a tool used to encourage the hoof to grow in
a physiologically correct shape and the correct living conditions aid remodeling where
necessary and help maintain a healthy hoof.
There are many benefits to keeping your horse barefoot including:
Improved blood flow which improved horses overall health.
Healthy, strong horn (hoof walls).
Rock-crunching hooves in
Greater shock absorption so fewer concussion related injuries.
action
Quicker heart rate recovery time after exercise.
Jeau Thomas
No more worrying about shoes coming off during a ride/event.

Lower risk of injuries when playing in the field.
Improved traction - nature designed the hoof so it can adapt to all terrains.
Less tripping, stumbling and forging as horse can feel where its feet are.
However, it is not just simply a case of removing the shoes and happily riding off into the
sunset. Most horses need to go through a transition period to allow the hooves to adapt
to being barefoot. During that time hoof boots may be needed when riding.
Good natural hoof trimming aims to:
Encourage a tight laminar connection by dealing with flares to ensure that the coffin
bone is held strongly in the top of the hoof capsule.
The heels are trimmed to allow the frog to function in shock absorption.
The walls are trimmed so that the sole is also weight bearing.
The toe callus is encouraged to develop through conditioning to protect the front of
the coffin bone.
Ensure that the bottom edge of the coffin bone is kept at approx 3-5 degrees
(depending on which trim method you follow) angle to the ground.
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Potential issues with a traditional pasture trim:

Often in a typical pasture trim the heels are left long which encourages contraction and
can lead to navicular pain.
The toe callus is trimmed away (from the bottom) leaving the tip of the coffin bone
unprotected.
The walls are flat and left higher than the sole so they have to support the entire weight
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Hoof Diagrams:
com/barefoot-hoof-diagrams.
html
of the horse.
Flares are often ignored which puts strain on the laminar connection and results in poor
suspension of the coffin bone making the horse more susceptible to laminitis.
Trimming is often carried out on an infrequent basis, so the hooves are often not in an
optimum state.
Natural hoofcare and natural hoof trimming aim to mimic natural wear so is often carried out
on a more frequent basis than traditional pasture trims. This keeps the hoof in the optimum
shape at all times.
Barefoot hoof diagrams

Below are some barefoot hoof diagrams to give you an idea of what the shape of the ideal
hoof should look like. The parts of the hoof are labeled for reference.
Sole view of a front hoof
Note: Healthy hooves
can vary depending
on the environment
the horse is living in
and the terrain they
regularly encounter.
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Note the following points:
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Wide, fat frog.

Tight white line.
Strong, thick hoof walls - with the inner wall being thicker.
Bars end approximately halfway down the frog.
The heel buttresses are back towards the rear of the frog.
The hoof ratio is 65:35 (from the rear of the hoof to the widest point; and from the
widest point to the break over).
Sole view of a rear hoof

The rear hoof is more oblong in shape and has a slightly pointed toe compared to the
front hoof. This is because the rear hooves are used to propel the horse forward and so
the point helps the hoof dig into the ground to provide more push.
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Side view of the hoof capsule
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Coffin Bone Photos:
com/coffin-bone.html
Coffin bone photos

Below are some photos of the coffin bone. You will see how it sits parallel to the ground
and also how that translates to the cross section view shown
in the barefoot hoof diagrams.
When viewing cross section diagrams it is often difficult to understand talk of ground
parallel coffin bones as the bone looks to be at an angle to the ground.
However, this is purely due to the nature of cross sections. The photos below illustrate
how this comes about. In the one on the left you can see the whole bone and you can
see how the bottom edge is parallel to the ground. The one on the right shows the cross
section (where the bone is cut in half). This makes it look like the bottom edge (which is
really the underside and is concave) is at an angle to the ground.
Coffin bone (left) and cross section (right)
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Coffin bone views
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Note: The bones shown are not perfect specimens and have some deformities. They were
taken from a cadaver (dead) hoof which had large cracks in the hoof wall and showed
signs of rotation (founder). But they do illustrate the basic shape of the bone.
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Hoof Evaluation
What makes a good hoof?
Does your horse currently have healthy hooves? This page will help you identify the
common issues that often sneak up on you when you are not looking...
Hoof wall
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Hoof Education:
com/Hoof-Education.html
Laminitis:
com/laminitis-in-horses.html
The hoof wall should look smooth on the outside (without it being rasped!). If you see
bumps (growth rings - photo on left, above) then that is an indication of a problem.
The growth rings relate to a time of stress for the horse and it is fairly easy to put a
timeframe on the rings - just like you can with trees! The cause of the rings can be many
and varied but, laminitis, caused by grass that is too rich, is often a major player.
Horizontal cracks (centre photo, above) are usually a sign of an old abscess. They will
normally grow out without too much trouble as once the abscess has burst they seal
themselves up on the inside to prevent further infection.
Vertical cracks (photo on right, above) can be much more serious and tend to be due to
an imbalance of the hoof. They will not grow out until the imbalance is dealt with. Often
the crack will be an ideal home for bacteria which will need to be treated to allow the hoof
to heal.
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Straight growth of hoof wall
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The hoof walls should grow in a straight line from the coronet as illustrated in the photo
on the left (above). See how when you drop a line through the centre of the hoof there
is approximately the same amount of hoof on either side of the line. (This does vary
slightly, more so on the hinds where the inside wall is often more upright than the outside
wall.) Also note how the growth from the coronet parallels the width of the hoof wall (the
distance between the red and outer yellow lines).
The second photo appears, at first glance, to have straight walls but when you look at the
sole view the flares become evident when the red and yellow lines are applied. The green
lines indicate where the hoof wall should really be.
The third photo shows a hoof with flare on the one side. See how this is confirmed on the
sole view when you measure the distance from the middle yellow line to the outer yellow
lines. This reveals that there is more hoof to the right of the line. Again, the green line
indicates where the hoof wall should ideally be.
NOTE: the sole views are flipped for illustration purposes.
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Angle of growth at the toe and heel
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Forward Foot Syndrome:
com/forward-foot-syndrome.
html
At first glance this photo above shows a horse with a fairly low looking heel height (blue
line). However, if you look closely you will see that the heel length (marked in pink)
is actually too long. This is called an underrun heel or Forward Foot Syndrome and it
is where the heel grows at too low an angle. This is a common condition that is often
misinterpreted - many people only see how low the heel bulbs are to the ground and
want to grow more heel. However this just compounds the problem. See how far under
the hoof the point of impact already is? By allowing the heel to grow longer the point of
impact ends up even further under the hoof. This is often how navicular starts because
the impact force is in the wrong place and affects the tendon which causes damage to the
navicular bone.
See also how the toe wall is trying to grow in at a tighter angle at the top? But it cant
when the toe is too long and the point of breakover too far forward as it keeps getting
diverted to a lower angle. Also note the shape of the foot when viewed from the bottom.
It is oblong rather than rounded, again because the breakover is in the wrong place. The
green lines show where the hoof should be - with the point of impact of the heels further
back under the horse and in line with the back of the frog. The toe also needs to be
brought back to allow the hoof wall and coffin bone to grow in a tight connection.
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Hoof shape
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The ideal shape of the front hoof is shown on the left in the illustration below and the
hind hoof on the right. The hinds tend to be more pointed because they are used to dig in
Breakover/Toe Rocker:
and push off to propel the horse forward.
com/toe-rocker.html
The ideal ratio of the hoof, when viewing

the sole is 2/3rd to 1/3rd. This translates
as the distance from the apex (tip) of the
frog to the back of the heels is 2/3rds the
overall length; and the distance from the
apex of the frog to the toe is 1/3rd of the
overall length. However, be sure to take
the measurements from the true apex
of the frog - sometimes the frog grows
forward so it needs to be trimmed back a
little to reveal the true apex.
Also be aware of the shape of the hoof - sometimes when the hoof is more oblong the
ratio may appear correct but in fact is not - the whole foot has migrated forward.
Hoof Length, concavity & depth of the collateral grooves
The length of the hoof is dependant on the health of the hoof. When the hoof is unhealthy
it often grows in excess to help protect the weaker parts. In a healthy hoof the hoof walls
are just slightly longer (1/8 or 3mm) than the level of the naturally concave live sole.
The depth of concavity you are looking for is approx 1/2 - 3/4 (13-20mm). How do I
measure that?, I hear you ask. Well first lay a flat surface, such as a rasp, across the
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sole of the hoof. Then take your hoof pick and push it down into the collateral groove
at the rear of the hoof - between the bar and the frog. Put your fingers at the point
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where the hoof pick meets the rasp. Pull out the hoof pick (keeping your fingers in
place) and measure from the tip of the hoof pick to where your fingers are. This will
give you the measurement at the heels. Then do the same at the apex of the frog. If the
measurements are below the range then you have a horse with a short hoof and a thin
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sole. If they are above the range then the hoof is too long.
Laminitis:
Quality of the frog
A healthy frog is full, plump and level with the heels. The ideal texture is like a hard
rubber/eraser and the central cleft should be open. If the frog is tatty looking or if the
central sulcus consists of only a crack then there is probably thrush lurking in there.
Quality of the white line
A healthy hoof has what is know as a tight white line. This is the connection between
the hoof wall and the coffin bone and in a healthy hoof it shows up as being approx 35mm wide.
The illustrations below show a healthy hoof on the left and a hoof with a stretched white
line (at the toe) on the right. The white line looks like stripes between the sole and the
hoof wall and is much more visible when stretched. Stretching at the toe is normally an
indicator of rotation of the coffin bone as a result of laminitis or it may be from excess
flaring of the hoof.
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How to Take Good Hoof Photos

Taking good hoof photos is crucial to getting a good evaluation of your horses hooves.
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Studying good hoof photos will help you learn more about the health of your horses
hooves and how to spot problems before they occur.
Taking Good Hoof Photos:

http://www.all-natural-
Step One: Choose the right area
horse-care.com/good-hoof-
Make sure that you have a good location to take your photos. You need a fairly firm (so
photos.html
that the hoof doesnt sink into it) and flat surface. Lighting is also important - try to avoid
an area where there is direct sunlight such as an open doorway of a barn, or in a very
dark corner, as they dont make for good hoof photos. Natural, even light is best but
using a flash also works (just be sure to check your horse is ok with the flash going off
before you attempt to shoot the hooves, else he might end up in your lap!).
Step Two: Clean the Area
Sweep the area clean or lay down a board or rubber mat on the floor. Any shavings or
hay left on the floor will cause you problems as the camera will focus on them and make
your hooves look blurry.
Step Three: Clean the Hoof
Clean the hooves thoroughly. Pick them out and use a wire brush to thoroughly clean
out all the cracks and crevises. If the foot still looks dirty then try soaking in warm water
for a few minutes and then scrub with the brush to get rid of every spec of dirt. Then
thoroughly dry the foot with a towel.
Step Four: Re-clean the Area
This step may seem repetitive, but be sure not to skip it. Even one small lump of mud
can get in the way of good hoof photos.
Step Five: Taking the Good Hoof Photos
There are seven main hoof shots that I like to take. Remember for the majority of these
shots the camera needs to be on the ground, otherwise there will be distortion. If you
have any specific problems with the hooves you can also include additional photos of
them.
Lateral shot - taken from the side of the hoof
with the camera on the ground and aiming the
camera at the middle of the hoof. The camera
must be parallel to the leg and try to include
the short pastern bone so that the angle can be
assessed.
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Medial shot - same as the lateral shot but taken

from the opposite side of the horse so you are
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viewing the inside side of the hoof.

Toe shot - again taken with the camera on the
ground and aiming the camera at the middle of
the hoof. Make sure the horses leg is as square
over the hoof as possible.
Heels on the ground shot - again taken
with the camera on the ground and aiming the
camera at the middle of the hoof. Make sure
the horses leg is as square over the hoof as
possible.
Heels in the air shot - this one is a little tricker
to take as you need to hold the hoof whilst
taking the photo. I suggest you practise this
without the camera first as you need to teach
your horse to relax the hoof down without him
trying to put his foot down. The way I do it is to
hold the pastern in my left hand with my thumb
(the black blob - Im wearing gloves in this shot)
gently pressing into the back of the pastern.
Encourage the horse to relax the leg and let
the hoof hang down. The first couple of times
you try this the horse will probably think you
want him to put the hoof down, so be patient.
Gently rotating or wiggling the leg will help it to
relax. Once you and your horse are comfortable
with this you can then line the camera up with
the heels and move it backwards and forwards
until you can just see the toe slightly as well. I
suggest you take a few shots in varying positions
to ensure you get it right. This is a very useful
shot for assessing overall balance.
Sole shot - again a little tricker as you need to
hold the hoof whilst taking the photo, but easier
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than the last one! Hold the camera parallel to
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the hoof and try to keep it fairly square on too.

Make sure you include the heel bulbs.
Concavity shot - again a tricky one but its
a nice shot to illustrate concavity. Hold the
camera about 8 inches above and to the side of
the hoof at an approx 45 degree angle. Again,
experiment a bit and take a few shots to be sure
to get a good one.
Step Six: Taking Body Shots
When taking good hoof photos it is also useful to have the following body shots of the
horse as they can indicate how comfortable the horse is with her feet.
Full body shot - taken from the side
with the horse stood in her normal
position ie dont stand her up square just
for the photo.
Front shot - taken from the front with
the horse stood in her normal position
ie dont stand her up square just for the
photo.
Rear shot - taken from behind with the
horse stood in her normal position ie
dont stand him up square just for the
photo.
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Equine Hoof Problems & Photo Consultations

If your horses hooves are not quite right or he/she is experiencing equine hoof
problems then its always a good idea to get a second opinion. Often we are told that
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thats just the way his/her hooves are but that is not always the case. Many common
Hoof Education:
equine hoof problems are as a result of imbalance and this can affect the whole horse.
http://www.all-natural-
For example if your horse has a sore hock it may be due to the medial/lateral balance of
horse-care.com/Hoof-
the hoof being off. Or if he has no get up and go, then it may be due to sore feet. Often,
Education.html
behaviour problems are as a result of pain so it is always wise to consider this when
dealing with a difficult horse.
Healthy Hooves:
http://www.hoofrehab.com/
Studying photos
Natural%20Hoof%20Care.
One of the best ways to really study your horses feet is to take photos with a digital
htm
camera. When we look at the hooves on a daily basis it is easy to overlook the detail
- you will be amazed at what you see in a photo that you miss in real life. Using thegood
Contact Me:
hoof photo guidelines to take your pictures will give you clear, quality photos that you can
jenny@all-natural-horse-
study on your computer at leisure. Even if your horse has shoes on you will still be able
care.com
to see a great deal.

Compare with Healthy Hooves
After you have taken and studied the photos you may be able to work out for yourself
where the problem lies. This hoof education pages will help with this. Or you may find it
helpful to compare your horses hoof photos with photos of healthy hooves, such as the
ones on this page http://www.hoofrehab.com/Natural%20Hoof%20Care.htm
Photo Consultations
If you want to get another opinion and a more detailed assessment of your horses
hooves, then you please contact me. I have been evaluating hooves from photos (and
xrays if you have them) for many years and will provide you with marked-up photos and
a detailed description, indicating areas of concern.
Contact me by email: jenny@all-natural-horse-care.com for more information. The cost is
$40(US) for up to 1 hours consultation and can be paid online using paypal - details will
be sent once I recieve your request.
Please note that this service does not intend to replace the services of your
current hoof care professional or vet and is for guideline purposes only. It will
provide you an alternative insight into your equine hoof problems but will not
replace a hands on diagnosis. It is recommended that you consult with your vet
about any changes you may wish to implement.
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The Performance Bare Foot Horse

The bare foot horse is becoming a force to be reckoned with in many different disciplines
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of equitation. This page shows just a small selection of the hundreds of barefoot horses
The Performance Bare Foot

Horse:
successfully competing in sports such as racing, endurance, eventing and dressage.

These performance barefoot horses serve to prove that bare foot works and is a viable
option for every horse, not just backyard owners who trail ride once or twice a week.
com/bare-foot-horse.html
Dressage
www.eurodressage.com
British Olympian Emma Hindle bagged a double victory with Diamond Hit and Wie
www.horseridingfun.com
Weltmeyer (Wally) at the international CDIO in Saumur, France in 2005, both horses
competed bare foot. Hindle says The experiences Ive had riding without shoes is
unbelievable. Three years ago Wally had a problem after one shoeing, so we wanted to
see how he did without them. Since then, weve taken off for three months in winter and
put them back on for the shows. This year we decided to keep them off and I think its
brilliant.
Astrid Appels of Eurodressage said, The suppleness with which Hindles horses moved in
Saumur was remarkable. Both Diamond Hit and Wie Weltmeyer bounced off the ground
striding with confidence. The secret to this power and rhythm in her horses is the fact
that they wear no shoes.
For the full story visit: www.eurodressage.com
Update - Emmas current horses are shod due to pressure from the owners.
Endurance
Darolyn Butler first experienced the benefits of a bare foot horse back in September
2000. She had been competing in a 100 miler when her horse pulled out at 80 miles. The
next day he started showing signs of laminitis so she rushed him to the best vet hospital
in Texas. But despite the best care they could offer for 2 weeks (including heart bar
shoes) the horse was abscessing and worsening. Darolyn started researching alternatives
on the internet and stumbled across the bare foot methods. By January 2001 her horse
was sound and they were back competing, coming close to winning his 2nd race and
winning his 3rd. Since then she has converted her entire barn of 50 horses to bare foot.
For more information on endurance riding with a bare foot horse visit: www.
horseridingfun.com
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Eventing
Kendall Victorine DeRoo and her son Tyler of Bristol, Winconsin started experimenting
with the bare foot trim back in 2002. They took the shoes off seven of their horses
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www.naturalhorsetrim.com
including Royal Code who went on to complete two novice events and four training events
with placings of 7th, 6th, 4th and 1st. In September, just seven months after going bare
www.discover-horse-
foot they moved up to prelim level. In June 2003 they won their division of the Prelim
carriage-driving.com
Level at the Fox River Valley Pony Club Horse Trails, Barrington, IL and placed in six other
Prelim events throughout the season.
For the full story and photos of Royal Code in action visit: www.naturalhorsetrim.com
Working Bare Foot Horses

Mounted Patrols
In Houston, TX, Las Vegas, NV, and Tampa, FL mounted patrols are very proud barefoot
trim advocates. Greg Sokoloski, trainer of the Houston MP horses and certified trimmer
(through Martha Olivo / United Horsemanship ), reports, Before barefooting, we were
seeing tripping, stumbling, bad abscessing, tendon and back problems, and very poor
hoof quality with shoes. What is amazing is all those conditions have stopped. It is
incredible to see the medical logs, and see the months of various medical conditions -then no entries after barefooting.
He says the horses have much better traction and also noticed improved overall
conformation - if the Mounted Patrol that walks on pavement all day in one of the largest
cities in the U.S. has their horses barefoot, your horse can be too!
Driving
There are also many people who drive with bare foot horses. Find more information about
driving horses at: www.discover-horse-carriage-driving.com
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Trim Styles
There are many different trimmers doing barefoot trims and they all have slightly
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different styles. Here is a list of some of the main ones:
Applied Equine Podiatry:

com/Applied-Equine-Podiatry.
html
Applied Equine Podiatry - KC La Pierre, RJF, MEP, PhD

KC La Pierre, RJF, MEP, PhD, is the developer of the HPT method (High Performance
Trim) and educator of Applied Equine Podiatry (AEP). He has been a Registered Journey
Farrier for 20 years, a horseman for over 30 years, as well as a traditional Journeymen
Blacksmith.
KC founded the International Institute of Equine Podiatry, Inc. in 2000 with the aim of
furthering the awareness of todays insightful horse owner, farrier, and veterinarian to the
importance of proper equine foot care.
Applied Equine Podiatry is about first establishing balance with the HPT Method - which
is his tool to achieving the correct stimulus for growth. However, exposing that foot to
the proper environment is the key to success; its what that foot is exposed to once it hits
the ground that is important. AEP is about owner commitment and education. Its about
looking at domestication differently, and being able to think laterally, out of the box.
KC La Pierres new science of hoof care is about changing how you look at your horses
environment, while providing the correct stimulus for growth. What AEP is built upon is a
simple formula: Structure + Function = Performance.
Applied Equine Podiatry is based on KC La Pierres own Suspension Theory of Hoof
Dynamics and his Internal Arch Theory. His work is about providing a model and a
method that both the farrier sciences, and alternative medicine practitioners can rely on.
He balances to the fifth dimension!
His past experience with the Abaco wild barb horses of the Bahamas, provided research
into the environmental effects on the once pristine hooves of these magnificent creatures.
This research has been supportive to the practical application of AEP on the domestic
horse.
The essence of Equine Podiatry is the conscientious study of the equine foot, always
striving to expose it to proper environmental stimuli, making every effort to promote
proper structure and function, as we attempt to achieve high performance. It is accepting
the facts that the horse has the innate ability to heal itself and that mans interference
has caused imbalance and broken the golden rule of Do No Harm. KC La Pierre, RJF,
MEP, PhD, 2002.
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36
Courses
KCs workshops include five-day courses, online curriculum for distance learning, as well
Quick Links
as a diploma program for those who wish to pursue Applied Equine Podiatry as a career.
Book and DVDs
The Chosen Road - Achieving High Performance through Applied Equine Podiatry - a
comprehensive book on the healing art of Equine Podiatry and its tool, the HPT method,
as well as KCs four Volume DVD set.
For further information visit: www.equinepodiatry.net
The Perfect Hoof Club
The Perfect Hoof Club was introduced for the serious horse lover, those wanting to
advance their knowledge of the equine foot and have fun while doing so. KC La Pierre
will provide members with the latest in hoof care information every month through a
newsletter, members only forum, and more! www.theperfecthoof.com
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Barefoot for Soundness with Marjorie Smith
Quick Links
Marjorie Smith is the owner of Barefoot for Soundness which is a website that is a voice
Barefoot for Soundness:
for the experience and observations of several dozen barefoot-horse colleagues, plus the
thoughtful contributions of many readers.
com/Barefoot-for-Soundness.
Marjorie lives in the countryside near Philadelphia, USA and has trimmed her own horses
html
feet since 1998. It took her five years to think her way through going barefoot, before
there was any barefoot movement to point the way. She completely respects how long
it takes to think it through and she believes in giving you time to do your own homework
before committing to the barefoot decision.
Marjories inspiration came from watching the farrier Tony Gonzalez teach about balancing
hooves, where she saw a fidgety horse suddenly become calm after he shaved a small
amount off the outside toe of one of its feet. She credits Becky Tober, a Gonzalez student,
for showing her how to see many kinds of imbalances in hooves.
Her experience of a pasture trim on her first horse (15 years ago) - when her horse
became very sore to the point that Marjorie put shoes back on her - made her notice that
you have to do something different to ride a horse barefoot.
When she moved East in 1998, Marjorie had the shoes pulled on her horses, and started
playing with the trimming tools. Trimming every 3 to 4 weeks for a year she worked her
way through every imbalance there is, always with lots of observation, thought, and
experimenting.
While figuring out how to trim, Marjorie found Jaime Jacksons book, The Natural Horse.
Later she visited Jaime and saw his awesome set of wild mustang feet; looked at them
for hours and took their shape deep into her core.
She also heard of Dr. Hiltrud Strasser, a German veterinarian who developed a method
for rehabilitating lame horses that includes a barefoot, short-heel trim along with 24-hour
turnout and 24-hours available grass hay. Marjorie went to a seminar, was inspired by
Dr Strassers knowledge of physiology and mechanics of the hoof and leg, and in 2001
took her 9-month Hoofcare Specialist course. However Marjorie found Dr. Strassers trim
invasive of the hoof - her horses were unrideable for a year and a half, as well as the
horses of friends who took the course with her - so she went back to the wild horse trim
and terminated her certification with Dr. Strasser.
www.barefoothorse.com is packed full information including lots of helpful photos and
includes detailed steps on how to carry out a wild-horse trim.
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38
Gene Ovnicek
Gene Ovnicek is nationally and internationally recognized as a farrier, clinician and
Quick Links
researcher. A pioneer in the study of wild horse hoof form and function, Gene has
Gene Ovnicek:
combined his 40 years of farrier experience with the information from other scientific
research as a foundation for treating and preventing equine lameness.
com/gene-ovnicek.html
Gene is currently involved with ongoing research with Dr. Robert Bowker of Michigan
State University and Dr. Barbara Page of the Equine Wellness Foundation.
The ever evolving Natural Balance information packed presentations have been featured
at some of the most prestigious farrier and veterinarian conferences in the world. In
addition to the research projects, teaching and his position as President and Chief
Technician of Equine Digit Support System, Inc., Gene still operates a complete farrier
practice ranging from performance horses to lameness management and consultation.
Gene Ovnicek and the Natural Balance information have been published in the American
Farriers Journal (AFJ), Anvil Magazine, TrailBlazer magazine, Horse Illustrated, Western
Horseman, the European Farriers Journal, EQUUS and several associated press articles.
He has published chapters in major hoof care text books such as Adams Lameness in
Horses, Diagnosis and Management of Lameness in the Horse, and The Veterinary
Clinics of North America.
Some of the wild horse research material, as well as the Natural Balance guidelines are
published in the book, New Hope for Soundness and on the www.hopeforsoundness.
com website. This and more updated information is covered in the Natural Balance
Hoof Trimming and Natural Balance Shoeing video sets.
As a clinician, Gene has been invited to share this information with a wide range of
groups and activities. A few include:
1994 and 2003 Bluegrass Laminitis Symposium
1995 American Association of Equine Practitioners Convention
1997 Guild of Professional Farriers Convention
1998 Colorado Veterinary Medical Association Conference
1999 Wyoming Veterinary Medical Association Conference
Annual Colorado State University C.E. Courses for Veterinarians and Farriers
Annual University of California at Davis C.E. Courses for Veterinarians and Farriers
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1998 Heumphreus Memorial Conference at University of California at Davis
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Regular TFP Sponsored Farrier/Vet Conferences in England

1998 and 2002 Ashbrook Farrier/Vet Conference in the UK
1999 - 11th Congress for Farriers and Vets of France
1999 - Various Sponsored Farrier/Vet Conferences in Australia
1999 and 2000 - Venezuela Laminitis Symposium
1997 and 2000 - Annual Rochester Lameness Conference
2001 Meeting of the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association
2001 Meeting of the American College of Veterinary Surgeons
2002 American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association Conference
1998-2005 Annual Soundness Festival Clinician
2004 Shoeing for Balance Conference in the UK
2005 and 2006 2nd and 3rd Annual International Hoof Care Summit
2005 - 9th Congress of Equine Medicine and Surgery, Geneva, Switzerland
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40
Pete Ramey
Pete Ramey started out as a shoeing farrier in 1994. He was trained by a local farrier
Quick Links
and studied farrier texts. He soon became aware of the lack of actual hoof knowledge
Pete Ramey:
and trimming instructions contained within the farrier texts. Also how there was very
little information on dealing with pathological hooves, so he started reading veterinary
com/pete-ramey.html
textbooks and picking the brains of farriers and vets. However he still could not find the
answers.
In 1998 he was shown some barefoot texts and internet printouts and he quickly realised
that the answers he was seeking were coming to light. His shoeing abilities improved with
this new found knowledge and six months later he started experimenting with barefoot
techniques on his own horse. Soon after he was blown away by the results he was getting
with twenty trail horses at a public riding facility who were averaging twenty miles a day
barefoot over rocky ground. Their overall health was improving as well as their endurance
and traction.
His main interest was to work on lameness rehabilitation and so he started to give
presentations of his case studies to the local vet hospitals and he bought lame horses
from the killer market to take home and rehab. As word of his success spread his
business grew until he was taking care of up to 800 horses and teaching hoof clinics all
over the world.
In 2000, he wrote his first book Making Natural Hoofcare Work for You, which was well
received due to it being written in a clear and straightforward way with lots of photos.
To visit Petes website - which has lots of great articles and photos of hooves before and
after trimming: www.hoofrehab.com
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The LIM Trim by Walter Friedrich
Quick Links
The LIM trim (Less is More) philosophy is that we should not blindly follow someone elses
Pete Ramey:
idea of how it should look, but rather do as little as possible and only what is absolutely
necessary for each foot, on the theory that its quite capable of fixing itself when given
com/LIM-trim.html
half a chance. Bottom line -- be careful to overdo nothing.

What follows are just the conclusions Ive personally come to. They are influenced by
Marjorie Smith and Heike Bean, who together sparked the original concept by describing
their own experiences in striving to fix problem feet, and in a general sense to Gene
Ovnicek.
I think that many of us do too much, too often to our horses feet in the name of making
them look like a ferals, on the theory that if the outside looks right then the inside
must also be right. Thinking back over horses Ive known, I realize that its not at all
uncommon for the well-trimmed and often-trimmed horse to be the lame one, while the
horse whose feet are left pretty much alone seems to get along just fine.
I think its incorrectly inferred by many of us whove learned from Strasser or KC or Jaime
or others that we need to force, even micromanage, the feet to idealize their appearance
if we want our horse barefoot and sound, when thats not at all what these people are
trying to get across. With the exception of the appearance of the white line, how the
outside looks does not guarantee that the inside is as it should be.
Here is exactly what comprises the LIM Trim
First, trim frequently. A three-week cycle is a good compromise between overworking
your back or pocketbook and running the danger of letting hoof growth get away from
you.
Second, at each trim study the feet on the ground before you pick one up. Make a mental
note about what doesnt look quite right so youre sure to address it when you have hoof
in hand. This is when youll spot the existence of any flaring. Continue the study when
you pick up the foot - the only tool you should have in your hand is your pick/brush, with
your wire brush handy.
Clean off the bottom thoroughly, including the commisures, so you can see all foot
and no dirt. Now look to determine the cause of any anomalies you saw before picking
up, as well as the condition of the sole components. Dont rush into rasping or cutting
(remember the motto of the LIM trim: Less is More), take a moment and study what
youve got, then plan out your work. That includes locating the widest distance across the
foot, the location of the breakover, and the location of the heel buttresses. Gene suggests
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42
you actually draw lines with a marking pen so you can see exactly what youve got. See
the photo below for a roadmap of the sole. Keep the 65-35 ratio (or thereabouts) in mind
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- if you dont see it, determine why: have the buttresses worked their way forward since
the last trim? Has the breakover disappeared or moved? Plan for your corrective routine.
Finally, go to the LIM trim. Youre going to fix specific problems that you spotted during
your evaluation phase, then give it the Old 1-2-3. That is, 1) take down wall all around
to live sole plane, making sure the foot is balanced, 2) make sure the heel buttresses are
where they belong according to the 65-35 concept. It means bring them back close to
the location of the frog buttress, which isnt going to change. Then 3) rocker the toe to
support/induce proper breakover point and apply a mustang roll.
When correcting hoof problems like pointy toes and underslung heels, while all the above
applies, the wall needs special attention. Depending on the severity of any flaring, you
may need to nip away the bottom of the wall. Some trimmers cut back the toe vertically.
Thats essentially the same as a strong rocker and mustang roll. The objective is to
remove leverage from the extended wall digging into the ground. The advantage in
applying the strong rocker/mustang roll is that youre in little danger of taking it back too
Hoof photo courtesy of
far, but you may have to touch up the toe more often than every 3 weeks.
Sossity Gargiulo
Some pertinent comments:

First, hinds generally dont get the toe rocker, but do get the mustang roll and you
need to make sure the toe wall is not left too long - you want to support breakover
where the foot wants it. Because of the difference in shape between fores and hinds,
the support ratio is probably closer to 50-50 in the typical hinds.
Dont touch the toe callous on any foot.
You may need to trim the bars with a knife if youre trimming to correct a problem
foot, but when youre trimming to maintain a good foot, the bars should rarely, if
ever, need knife attention.
Normally, the frogs dont need attention, but if theyre stringy you can trim off the
raggedy stuff. If theyre deteriorated, you can apply whatever treatment youre using
-- Kopertox, TTO or other.
You can debride the sole if you wish, without cutting into the live sole itself.
Yes, of course, the LIM trim is simple -- thats the point. Its essence is that you do no
more than the hoof calls for, you specifically ensure properly lowered heels, you support
proper breakover, you balance the foot, and most importantly, you support the forces
acting on the foot while the horse moves so that it wants to stretch rather than contract.
The LIM trim allows the bars to remain straight and the frog, if its not suffering from a
43
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fungal infection, to fatten up and make initial ground contact.
Quick Links
Lets address the bent and laid-over bars problem, which I consider to be the result of
heel-to-toe contraction, AKA Forward Foot Syndrome (call it FFS). What follows is purely
theoretical.
A large percentage of domestic horses seem to have folded bars. It is unnatural and
probably limits the horses endurance as well as causes discomfort or even pain. Many
of us hack away at the bars in a vain attempt to get them to straighten. I dont think
that will ever work - sure hasnt for me -- because I think bent bars are directly related
to and the result of the underslung condition (FFS), and when we fix that, the bars will
straighten themselves.
With feral feet, its a given that constant movement and the correct trim that happens
naturally are responsible for the ideal characteristics of their bottoms. The mechanics
of hoof action during all that movement must be what prevents FFS. It could be that
the normal force vectors in a healthy foot, from impact through weight-bearing and
then breakover are tensile -- tending to stretch the foot between toe and heel -- and
the function of the bars, similar to that of the frog, is to resist those pulling forces and
keep things in place. If that is true, then the bars would be in a constant state of either
quiescence, while the foot is not weight-bearing, or being pulled front-to-back, through
the entire weight-bearing cycle. A compressive force in the heel-to-toe (H-T) direction,
as we have with FFS, is unnatural in the foot system and to the bars in particular, and
eventually results in the bars bending and laying over. An analogy: squeeze an index card
between thumb and forefinger - it bends. Compressive force and resistance that fails.
The argument can be made that a FFS foot is actually displaying H-T contraction, because
in order to be underslung to begin with, there has to be net compressive force in the
H-T direction. It would eventually bend the bar just like that index card. The bars arent
strong enough to provide support from compressive forces when the entire weight of the
horse is behind them, so theyve got to give. Once FFS starts, it gets more pronounced
with every step the horse takes, and the bars pay the price.
I believe that compressive heel-toe forces cause FFS, and specifically, the underslung
heels that squeeze the bars rather than allowing them to stretch. I also believe that the
root cause of it all is the combination of improper heel height and improper breakover.
Ive noticed the prevalence of underslung heels on hooves with unrockered toe and overly
high heels. These aspects need to work together harmoniously, and the LIM Trim will help
correct FFS.
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44
Hoof-related Websites
Quick Links
www.ironfreehoof.com
Iron Free Hoof:
Excellent website that gives very detailed, easy-to-understand, step-by-step information on
www.ironfreehoof.com
trimming hooves.
Natural Horse Trim:
Lots of detailed information on dealing with laminitis and founder.
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Common Hoof Disorders

Laminitis in horses - ideas for prevention and cure
Quick Links
Laminitis in horses (also know as horse founder) is becoming a very common condition
Laminitis:
these days, mostly due to the lush pastures that more and more horses and ponies are
being grazed on.
Horses are actually classed as foragers (rather than grazers) which means that their
digestive systems are designed to cope with a continuous supply of small amounts of
www.johnthevet.com
roughage at a time. Wild horses have to travel great distances to get enough food to
keep them alive as most wild grasses are low in nutrients. In comparison domestic horses
are given huge amounts of high nutrient value grasses as more and more fertilizers are
used. This means that the horse has to move very little and consumes more sugars than
its body can handle which is the main cause of laminitis in horses.
Also many stable kept horses are given large amounts of grain in one feeding and then
left for many hours with nothing in their stomach. This is also very disruptive to the
digestive system and can contribute to laminitis.
Definition of Laminitis in horses
Laminitis is inflammation of the sensitive structures in the hoof called the lamellae. The
lamellae are the means by which the coffin bone is held tight within the hoof capsule.
When viewing the sole of a healthy hoof you can tell how good the connection is by
looking at the white line. If the white line is tight (narrow in width) then there is a strong
connection. If the white line is stretched then the connection is compromised - see
diagrams below. Untreated laminitis can lead to Founder which is where the bone rotates
within the hoof capsule and sometimes results in the bone penetrating the sole.
Laminitis in horses is referred to as acute when it is in the early stages and chronic when
it has been present for a long time.
Healthy hoof with tight white line

See how the white line is narrow and even around the whole hoof in the illustration on
the left on the following page. Laminitis in horses occurs when the lamellae become
inflamed and produce a secretion full of toxins which weakens the connection between
the coffin bone and the hoof wall. This leads to a stretched white line (image on the right)
which is visible when looking at the sole of a horse with laminitis.
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46
Quick Links
Side view showing a tight white line

The strong connection holds the coffin bone tight to the hoof wall:
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Laminitis in Horses - Side view showing a stretched white line
Quick Links
Here you can see how the connection with the coffin bone has been weakened allowing
rotation.
Photos of hooves with laminitis
The hoof above left, shows a stretched white line (indicated by the red markings) and the
xray on the right shows how the coffin bone has rotated away from the hoof wall (marked
in red) - the bottom green line is longer than the top one.
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48
These two photos show the hoof trying to heal itself by growing in a tighter connection at
the top. The difference in the hoof wall angle (highlighted in red) is a clear indication of
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rotation of the coffin bone.
Symptoms of Laminitis in Horses

Less activity and a reluctance to move when led
Lying down more than is normal
Depression
Reluctance to turn
Standing a typical laminitic stance - hind feet further under the body with weight
rocked back and front feet further in front of the body
Tight muscles
Hooves warmer than normal
Bounding pulses in affected legs
Pain response when pressure is applied to sole
Blood in the white line
Fever rings visible on hoof wall
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Prevention
Quick Links
Laminitis is very painful and debilitating so preventing laminitis is very important. This
Safer Grass:
is achieved by first looking at your horses lifestyle so that you can identify potential
www.safergrass.org
triggers and remove them.
Jiaogulan:
If grass is the trigger then there are ways that you can limit the amount your horse/pony
eats:
com/Jiaogulan.html
Create a dry lot (with little or no grass) and feed grass hay instead
Buy a grazing muzzle which still allows the horse to graze and be with its herd but
Magnesium:
limits how much is consumed

Create a track around your field so that the horses have to move more to get their fill
html
If grain is the trigger:
Stop feeding grain - switch to sugarbeet with no molasses if your horse needs more
than just grass or grass hay
If you really feel that your horse cant go without grain, then feed it in smaller
quantities more often, rather than one big feed
If the trigger is mechanical:
Make sure your horses feet are trimmed correctly - high heels and long toes are
often major contributors to mechanical laminitis
Ensure that you condition your horse properly. Start slowly so that you allow the
muscles and tendons time to strengthen before doing strenuous exercise
Other ways to help:
Movement is important to a horse prone to laminitis as it increases blood circulation
which in turn flushes out the harmful toxins
Another herb that is helpful in improving circulation is Jiaogulan (gynostemma
pentaphylla)
If your horse or pony has a cresty neck or fatty deposits it may have a magnesium
deficiency so add a magnesium supplement to its food to rectify this.
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50
Laminitis in Horses - Road to Recovery

Once you have addressed all the laminitis triggers (ie removed the cause) you can start
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to deal with the recovery. It is crucial to get a proper trim which will allow the hoof to
start healing and growing in a tight connection between the coffin bone and hoof wall.
com/toe-rocker.html
Often when separation occurs the toes become too long which puts even more strain on
the already weak laminar connection. Long toes delay breakover (the point at which the
Boots & Pads article:
hoof leaves the ground) which in turn rips the wall further away from the coffin bone -
www.hoofrehab.com/
compare it to when your nail is bent back and pulled away from the nail bed and imagine
bootarticle.htm
how painful it is to the horse who has to also bear weight on it. It is therefore, very
important to bring the toes back to the correct location to relieve the strain. See article
Further information:
on the Toe Rocker (page 26) for more information on where this should be.
www.johnthevet.com
High heels also add to the problem as they increase the mechanical stress on the laminar
connection. They prevent the frog from being weightbearing which means that the hoof
wall has to take even more weight.
To make the horse more comfortable, pads or boots may be used - see Pete Rameys
article on the benefits of boots and pads: www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm However,
bear in mind that the coffin bone needs to stay close to ground parallel (3-5 degrees
depending on the trim method used) so the pads should not raise the heels. Rubber mats
are also very useful as they have some give to them. Avoid deep straw or shavings beds
as these allow the toe to sink (effectively raising the heels) which in turn puts pressure
on the lamellae.
For more information on laminitis visit www.johnthevet.com
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Navicular Disease - no longer a death sentence
Quick Links
Before the days of the barefoot movement, navicular disease in horses used to be seen
Navicular Disease:
as an incurable disease. However, there are now many horses who have been completely
restored - being fully sound and leading fully productive and more importantly, healthy,
com/navicular-disease.html
lives. How is this achieved? By trimming the hoof to the specifics that nature intended.
What is navicular disease?
That is a very good question! Usually any non-specific (other than such caused by an
injury or abscess) hoof heel pain is lumped together under the description of navicular
disease, or navicular syndrome. Diagnosis often involves nerve blocking the leg and
taking x-rays.
In some horses there is seen (on x-rays) to be deterioration of the navicular bone which
is where the term navicular disease came from - as the degeneration was thought to
be caused by a mysterious degenerative disease. It was thought that the pain came
from the friction of the tendon on the damaged bone. However, not all horses who show
this deterioration are lame or experience pain. Whereas others who appear to have no
degeneration show severe lameness.
Where is the navicular bone located?
As shown in the diagram on the left the navicular bone sits at the back of the coffin bone
and provides a smooth surface for the deep flexor tendon to run over.
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52
It was thought that the degenerative disease caused the bone to become rough which
in turn damaged cartilages between the bone and the tendon which in turn damaged
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the tendon. However Dr James Rooney (American College of Veterinarian Pathologists)

conducted a post mortem study of thousands of horses and found that not one had
damage only to the bone. In all cases there was damage to the deep flexor tendon and
cartilages proving that it is not the bone deterioration that causes tendon damage but the
cartilages and tendon deterioration that causes the bone damage.
He then went on to prove how this came about. He found that by stimulating a toe first
landing in test machines using dead horse legs the same damage could be created.
With heel first landing, the descending fetlock joint quickly tightens the deep flexor
tendon. Simultaneous to this, the coffin joint rotates forward toward breakover, loosening
the deep flexor.
But in a toe first landing the descending fetlock joint is still tightening the tendon just
after impact, but as the heel rocks downward (rotating the coffin bone backward), the
tendon is tightened from the other side at the same time. So there is increased pressure
on the coffin bone which increases the friction, causing damage to the region. This was
documented and published back in 1974!
The toe first landing normally occurs as a result of heel pain. So by finding the cause of
the heel pain we can prevent the damage caused to the navicular bone.
When horses are born all their feet are the same and it is the physical stimulation that
develops them into the distinctive front and back hoof shapes that we see in the healthy
adult hoof.
However, many foals dont get the proper stimulation because they are kept on soft
ground (or stabled). This means that the lateral cartilages, digital cushion and frog do not
fully develop. With the lack of development of these structures, the back of the foot is
over sensitive which means the horse starts to land toe first to avoid the pain.
Traditionally, horses with navicular disease are treated by applying bar shoes and pads
which mask the problem by protecting the bottom of the foot. This however, does nothing
to address the cause and in fact makes things worse as the structures continue to get
weaker as they now have no stimulation at all. Raising the heels is another method
that is used as it was thought to relieve the tension on the tendon, but again this just
makes things worse. Also, by applying a shoe the natural shock absorption of the foot is
compromised making the pressure even worse.
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So the way to address the cause of navicular disease is to gradually lower the heels using
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a barefoot trim to allow the hoof to receive some pressure on the frogs. It must be done
slowly to keep the horse comfortable - too much too soon and the horse will start toe
landing again to avoid the pressure on its sensitive frog. Boots and pads can be used to
increase the stimulation. Taping a v-shaped pad to the frog will help both protect it and
stimulate it. Then as much movement as possible to get the hoof to develop.
Whilst the bone deterioration may never fully recover, the horse will become sound as it
no longer has any heel pain and the deterioration will have stopped.
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54
Forward Foot Syndrome (FFS) by Walt Friedrick

This is a discussion about a common condition without a name, so Ill coin a phrase and
Quick Links
call it Forward Foot Syndrome (FFS from now on). Im not about to impart Gospel to you,
its just personal opinion. I have barefoot horses in mind, but these comments are by no
means restricted to bare feet alone.
html
FFS is widespread, and we need to recognize it to prevent or fix it. Lets define it. I think
most of you have seen Forward Foot Syndrome:
long, pointy toe;
underrun heels;
contraction;
improper (if any) breakover point;
bars curvy and flat;
frog long and narrow with the tip much too far forward and loose from the sole;
and probably some wall flaring.
See photo examples below.
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The first thing you need to know about it is that it is probably the most common and
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insidious problem for domestics hooves. It sneaks up on your horse over time, and it
happens because the horse is typically underexercised and too heavy, And because hes
getting trimmed improperly.
For comparisons sake lets look at some feral feet. Im not saying our domestics feet
should look like ferals, but those examples are there to illustrate the difference between a
healthy natural foot and one with FFS. Ferals are well-exercised, certainly not too fat, and
they have (for their lifestyle) perfect trims. That means weve got our work cut out for us,
but mark it: FFS can be remarkably easy both to prevent and to cure. Domestics are not
doomed to develop FFS any more than ferals are.
A foot that starts out in perfect condition but then starts receiving an improper trim will
take months, maybe longer, before you notice its got FFS. You can be diligent, pay out
plenty in farrier fees or sore backs in your effort to ensure good feet, yet FFS develops.
Yet all it takes to prevent FFS is to observe just a few critical aspects of the trim itself.
When correcting FFS, the wall needs special attention. Depending on the severity of
flaring, you may need to nip away the bottom of the wall. Some trimmers cut back
the toe vertically. Thats essentially the same as a severe rocker and mustang roll. The
objective is to remove leverage from the extended wall digging into the ground. The
advantage in applying the severe rocker/mustang roll is that youre in little danger of
taking it back too far, but you may have to touch up the toe more often than every 3
weeks.
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56
The road to bringing FFS hooves back to health can be long, but you can do it. Its not
difficult, and you must be diligent - do frequent trims and ALWAYS follow all the steps.
Take before pictures so you can compare the afters - you may even frame them sideby-side, youll eventually feel so good about it.
Photos courtesy of the barefoothorsecare yahoo group:
Quick Links
Barefoothorsecare:
http://groups.yahoo.com/
group/barefoothorsecare/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/barefoothorsecare/ - This group is dedicated to the care

and welfare of barefoot horses, everywhere, all breeds. We specialize in hoof-related
matters, although we discuss other subjects such as general physical problems, nutrition,
lifestyle, maintenance, behavioral issues. This is a restricted and monitored list and offtopic posts are discouraged. Personal attacks against individuals or trim methods are not
tolerated. The objective is to share problems concerning our horses and to offer solutions.
We encourage newbies as well as experienced horsepeople to join us. We owners are
just caretakers whove assumed the responsibility for our equine friends, and those who
join here take that responsibility seriously.
57
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Toe Rocker
Quick Links
The application of a toe rocker or bevel to a hoof improves breakover and encourages a
tighter connection between the hoof wall and coffin bone.
In a healthy hoof the hoof wall is tightly attached to the coffin bone. The coffin bone and
com/toe-rocker.html
hoof wall both have structures call laminae attached to them and these laminae interlock
with each other to form a very tight bond - imagine the bond as a closed zipper or a
velcro fastening.
As the hoof wall and sole grows down and away from the bottom edge of the coffin bone
the old laminae form the white line which is visible when looking at the sole. When there
is a tight connection the white line will be approx 2-3mm wide. If the connection between
the hoof wall and the coffin bone is compromised this will be reflected in the white line
which will be wider - the bottom of the zipper is now starting to open. The wider it is, the
worse the connection.
Sometimes the sole stretches forward and hides the stretched white line making it appear
to be healthier than it really is. There are two ways to double check if this is the case on
your horse. The first is to look at the angle of growth of the wall at the toe. Is the angle
tighter at the top than the bottom? If it is then the white line is stretched. (See second
set of illustrations below - the dotted green line shows the change in angle.) The second
is to look at the sole. Is there a ridge around the toe and then a gap between the ridge
and the hoof wall? If so you probably dont have a really tight connection.
Breakover
The hoof is designed to breakover in a position that applies the least amount of stress on
the laminar connection. This point is at the outer edge of the toe callus on a healthy hoof.
Therefore the point of breakover on a healthy hoof should start at the white line. Any
further forward and the laminae will be stressed.
The illustrations below show the difference between a traditional farrier trim, (first
illustration) where the hoof wall is trimmed flat, compared to a barefoot trim (second
illustration) where the bevel and mustang roll have been applied. Notice how much
farther back the barefoot trim brings the point of breakover - reducing the stress on the
lamina connection.
Using a bevel or toe rocker is even more important when dealing with a horse that has
laminitis and rotation and a stretched white line.
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58
Quick Links
59
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In the following illustrations the first one shows how far forward the toe can get with a
Quick Links
regular flat trim. The second illustration shows how it is really important to start the
rocker at the back (the side closest to the sole) of the stretched white line as indicated. If
you apply it starting at the front edge of the white line the breakover will still be too far
forward and the wall will continue to be pulled away from the bone.
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60
When applying the breakover however, you must be very careful not to rasp into the toe
callus else you will lower the height of the toe (measured vertically from the hairline at
Quick Links
the toe to the ground). The start of the breakover should be just in front of the highest
point of the toe when looking at the sole and should angle out at approx 30.
61
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Hoof Boots
It may be necessary to use hoof boots for a while when you first start transitioning your
Quick Links
horse to go barefoot. Often a newly de-shod hoof is not able to cope with the varying
surfaces you may encounter when riding or turned out and so boots are used to make
Hoof Boots:
com/hoof-boots.html
the horse more comfortable until the hoof has built up condition. Some horses are lucky
and dont need them but for most horses it is something that you do need to invest in
- although the majority of horses only need them on their front hooves.
Boots & Pads article:
They can also be used to make a horse more comfortable when they are suffering from
www.hoofrehab.com/
bootarticle.htm
abscesses, laminitis/founder or navicular.
Navicular Disease:
Some have accessories which help prevent rubbing. Also there are pads available that
can be used on sensitive horses or to help stimulate weakened areas of the hoof, such
com/navicular-disease.html
as the frog. By cutting the pad into the shape of the frog and either taping over the frog
Laminitis:
cushion. Pete Ramey has written a great article on the use of boots and pads:
or attaching it to the boot, extra stimulus is provided to help develop the frog and digital
www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm
This page gives you the chance to review and compare the wide range of boots that are
now avaiable.
In general, they fall in to three groups: boots designed for soaking the hoof; ones for
rehabilitation and limited use; and ones designed for riding. The riding group is further
split into two with the option of glue on boots which are glued directly onto the hoof.
My experience has been with the Boas, Old Macs and Easyboot Epics and out of those
three my preference for riding in is for the Easyboot Epics as the rigid structure of the
boot does not come above the hairline so there is less interference with joint articulation
and less chance of rubbing. They also take pads well. The Old Macs and Boas however,
are more forgiving when selecting a size and will accommodate wrappings such as a
poultice which is not possible with the Epics due to their fit. Each of boots listed here
have unique benefits so the final decision should be based on what your horses needs are
at the time of purchase as you may find certain boots will be more suitable than others.
Each boot manufacturer has slightly different size ratios so you may find some boot
shapes more suitable than others for your horses individual hoof shape. This is an
important fact to remember when deciding which boot to purchase as the better the fit,
the less problems you will encounter.
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62
Measuring
It is important to match the width and length of the hoof to the boot size. The front
Quick Links
hooves of most horses tend to be more round in shape and wider than the hind hooves.
The best fit may require a smaller size for the hinds.
How to get the correct size boot for your horse:
Measure the width of the hoof across the bottom at the widest point.
Measure the length of the hoof from the toe to the
buttress line of the heel. The buttress line is the
farthest weight bearing point of the heel.
Compare your measurement with the proper
size chart for the boot. If you are taking your
measurements in inches, use the imperial size
chart. If you are taking your measurements in
millimeters, use the metric size chart.
Ideally, the width and length measurement will fit
into the same boot size. If the width and length
measurements indicate different boot sizes, select
the larger boot size.
63
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Soaking Boots
Quick Links
Prices shown are the manufacturers recommended retail price (RRP) in US dollars as
Davis Horse Boots:
of Jan 2009. The tables below show a comparison for each boot with a more detailed
description on the following pages.
com/davis-horse-boot.html
EasySoaker:
com/easysoaker.html
Smart Soaking Boot:
com/smart-soaking-boot.html
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64
Davis Horse Boot
EasySoaker
Smart Soaking Boot
- $22 each
- $26 each
- $40 each
Width: 3 3/4 - 9 1/2
Width: 3 3/4 - 7 1/4
One size: fits upto 9 1/2
Therapy Boots - for hooves during rehab

Quick Links
Easyboot RX:
com/easyboot-rx.html
Easyboot Rx
Soft-Ride Comfort Boot
Saber Sneaker Boot
- $65-75 each
- $175-200 per pair
- $100 each
Width: 3 3/16 - 7 9/16
Width: 2 3/4 - 6 3/4
Width: 2 - 6 1/4
Soft-Ride Comfort Boot:

com/soft-ride-comfort-boot.
html
Sabre Sneaker Boot:
com/sabre-sneaker.html
Castle Plastic Boot:
com/castle-plastics-hoofboot.
html
HOOFix Boot:
Castle Plastics Boot
HOOFix Boot
Equine Slipper
- $37 each
- $38 each
- $40 each
Width: 4 1/2 - 5 5/8
Width: 4 1/2 - 5 1/4
Width: 4 3/4 - 7 1/2
com/hoofix-emergency-boot.
html
Equine Slipper:
com/equine-slipper.html
65
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Riding Boots
Quick Links
Boa Horse Boot:
com/boa-horse-boot.html
Easyboot Bare
com/easyboot-bare.html
Boa Horse Boot
Easyboot Bare
Marquis Hoof Boot
- $164 per pair
- $75-90 each
- $299 per pair
Width: 3 1/2 - 7 1/2
Width: 3 3/16 - 7 9/16
Width: 3 12/16 - 6 4/16
Old Macs
Easyboot Epic
Renegade Hoof Boot
- $164-180 per pair
- $75-90 each
- $84.50 each
Width: 4 1/8 - 5 13/16
Width: 3 3/16 - 7
Width: 4 3/16 - 5 1/4
Marquis Hoof Boot:

com/marquis-supergrip-boot.
html
Old Macs:
com/old-mac-horse-boot.html
Easyboot Epic
com/easyboot-epic.html
Renegade Hoof Boot:
com/renegade-hoof-boot.html
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66
Hoofwing Hoof Boot
Easyboot Grip
Simple Boot
- $169-270 per pair
- $75 each
- $119.95 per pair
Width: 3 - 9
Width: 4 3/8 - 5 1/2
Length: 4 - 6 1/8
Quick Links
Hoofwing Hoof Boot:
com/hoofwing-boot.html
Easyboot Grip:
com/easyboot-grip.html
Simple Boot:
com/simple-boot.html
Swiss Horse Boot:
Swiss Horse Boot
Easyboot Glove
Horse-Mocs
- $63.90 each
- $56 each
- $65-85 each
Width: 3 3/8 - 6
Width: 96mm - 131mm
Custom fit to every size
com/swiss-horse-boot.html
Easyboot Glove:
com/easyboot-glove.html
Horse Mocs:
com/horse-mocs.html
67
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Glue-on Boots
Quick Links
Marquis Glue On:
com/marquis-glue-on.html
Renegade Glue On:
com/renegade-glue-on.html
Easyboot Glue On
com/easyboot-glue-on.html
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68
Marquis Glue On
Renegade Glue On
Easyboot Glue On
- $69.99 each
- $24.95 each
- $24 each ($92 for 4)
Width: 3 12/16 - 6 4/16
Width: 4 3/16 - 5
Width: 96mm - 131mm
Davis Horse Boot

The Davis Horse Boot is designed for soaking the hoof. It has a soft, pliable upper, which
Quick Links
opens wide for easy on/off application - and closes tightly with a velcro strap to prevent
Davis Horse Boots:
liquid spilling out. However the plastic can get pretty stiff in cold weather so during the colder
months it is best to warm it up before trying to put the hoof in it. When removing in winter
com/davis-horse-boot.html
you can first apply a warm wet towel to the top for a few minutes, which will allow it to come
off easier.
The bottom is triple-layered using a tough polyvinyl compound so it can be re-used many
times and has a rough surface to prevent slipping on concrete. The boot also comes with a
therapeutic pad which wicks medications to the sole of the hoof.
Sizing
Size
Width
Length
00
3 3/4 (95mm)
4 1/4 (108mm)
4 1/2 (114mm)
5 (127mm)
5 1/4 (133mm)
5 5/8 (142mm)
5 5/8 (142mm)
6 1/8 (155mm)
6 1/4 (159mm)
7 (178mm)
7 1/4 (184mm)
7 3/4 (197mm)
8 (203mm)
8 1/2 (216mm)
9 1/2 (241mm)
9 1/2 (241mm)
Davis Horse Boot Fitting

Because they can be quite stiff in cold weather you will find it easier if you get a slightly larger
size boot, especially if your horses hoof matches an exact boot size. However, if the boot is
too much bigger than the hoof it is more likely to twist around if your horse moves around
whilst the boot is on.
Cost
Available from most horse stores at approx $22(US) each.
Davis Manufacturing
www.davismanufacturing.com/files/products/horse_boot.php
Davis Manufacturing
website
www.davismanufacturing.
com/files/products/horse_
boot.php
69
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EasySoaker Horse Boot
Quick Links
The Easysoaker is designed for soaking the hoof. It has a soft, pliable upper, which opens
EasySoaker:
wide for easy on/off application - and closes tightly with a velcro strap to prevent liquid
spilling out. However the plastic can get pretty stiff in cold weather so during the colder
com/easysoaker.html
months it is best to warm it up before trying to put the hoof in it. When removing in
winter you can first apply a warm wet towel to the top for a few minutes, which will allow
it to come off easier.
The bottom has a textured surface to prevent slipping. There are also pull straps on the
top of the boot to assist in applying the boot.
Sizing
Size
Width
Length
Small
3 3/4 - 4 1/2 (95-115mm)
4 1/4 - 5 (108-127mm)
Medium
4 1/2 - 5 1/4 (115-134mm)
5 - 5 3/4 (127-146mm)
Large
5 1/4 - 5 3/4 (134-146mm)
5 3/4 - 6 1/4 (146-159mm)
X-Large
5 3/4 - 6 1/4 (146-159mm)
6 1/4 - 6 3/4 (159-172mm)
XX-Large
6 1/4 - 6 3/4 (159-172mm)
6 3/4 7 1/4 (172-184mm)
XXX-Large
6 3/4 - 7 1/4 (172-184mm)
7 1/4 - 7 3/4 (184-190mm)
Fitting
Because they can be quite stiff in cold weather you will find it easier if you get a slightly
larger size boot, especially if your horses hoof matches an exact boot size. This also
allows more space for bandages and liquids. However, if the boot is too much bigger than
the hoof it is more likely to twist around if your horse moves around whilst the boot is on.
Cost
Approx $26(US) each - larger sizes are slightly more.
EasyCare Inc: www.easycareinc.com
EasyCare Inc website:

www.easycareinc.com
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70
Smart Soaking Boot

The Smart Soaking Boot is made of ballistic nylon with waterproof seals and includes
Quick Links
a comfort disk that adds durability to the base. It has an easy open front and the
Smart Soaking Boot:
ergonomic design enables it to stand up on its own when filled with water.
com/smart-soaking-boot.
There is a velcro closure and a control strap which helps when putting the boot on and
html
taking it off.
Sizing
The boot comes in just one size - 13 high x 9.5 width at base - but has an ample
opening for multiple sized hooves.
Cost
Approx $40(US) each.
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EasyBoot RX
Quick Links
The Easyboot RX is designed for use as a therapy boot, offering stability and support
EasyBoot RX:
without being heavy or clunky.
com/easyboot-rx.html
The sole is made of a durable yet soft material similar to human orthotics. The boot has
three air vents which aid in both keeping the hoof cool and preventing dirt accumulation.
The boot is easy to apply as the upper folds down allowing the hoof to slip in without
force. The boot then fastens using two velcro tabs which ensure a snug fit.
Each boot comes with an EasyCare Comfort Pad which provides extra padding and
support.
These boots can be used for light turn out.
Easyboot RX Sizing
The boots come in nine sizes and you are advised to buy bigger sizes if you intend on
using bandages or 12mm pads.
Sizing

www.easycareinc.com
Size
Width
Length
00
3 13/16 - 4 3/8 (98-110mm)
4 3/16 - 4 5/8 (106-117mm)
4 3/8 - 4 9/16 (111-116mm)
4 5/8 - 4 15/16 (118-124mm)
4 9/16 - 4 7/8 (117-123mm)
4 15/16 - 5 1/8 (125-130mm)
4 7/8 - 5 1/8 (124-130mm)
5 1/8 - 5 9/16 (131-140mm)
5 1/8 - 5 1/2 (131-139mm)
5 9/16 - 5 15/16 (141-150mm)
5 1/2 - 5 15/16 (140-150mm)
5 15/16 - 6 7/16 (151-163mm)
5 15/16 - 6 7/16 (151-163mm)
6 7/16 - 6 7/8 (164-174mm)
6 7/16 - 6 7/8 (164-175mm)
6 7/8 - 7 7/16 (175-188mm)
6 7/8 - 7 9/16 (176-192mm)
7 7/16 - 7 3/4 (189-195mm)
Cost
$65(US) each - sizes 4-7 are $75 each.
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72
Soft Ride Comfort Boot

Soft Ride Comfort Boots can be used with or without shoes and consists of a tough outer
boot combined with an orthotic insert pad system.
Quick Links
Soft Ride Comfort Boot:
The sole is contoured, non-slip and shock absorbing and the boot is both durable and
com/soft-ride-comfort-boot.
washable.
html
The boot comes with the standard blue gel orthotic, but there are a variety of additional
orthotic inserts with differing densities and dual density pads available.
The boots can be used as a therapy boot and also for transportation, showing, stalling
and breeding.
The boot slips on easily and is secured with heavy-duty velcro ankle straps.
Sizing
Size
Width
Length
10
2 3/4
2 3/4
3 5/8
3 3/4
3 7/8
4 1/4
4 1/2
5 1/8
5 1/4
Soft Ride website:
5 3/8
5 1/2
www.soft-ride.com/index.
5 5/8
html
6 1/8
6 3/8
6 1/2
7 1/4
6 3/4
7 3/4
Cost
Approx $175(US) per pair for sizes 4 through 10 and approx $200(US) per pair for sizes 1
through 3. Replacement inserts are approx $60-80 per pair.
www.soft-ride.com/index.html
73
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Sabre Sneaker
Quick Links
The Sabre Sneaker Rehab Boot is made of 1000 denier cordura with a soft, padded top
Sabre Sneaker:
and upper. The large tongue opens wide for easy on and off and the boot is tightened
with a strong boot lacing system.
com/sabre-sneaker.html
The inner sole is smooth, solid, cushioning rubber and the outer sole consists of a double
layered, textured thermoplastic making it very durable.
The stitching is made using super heavy-duty outdoor grade nylon and the boot is
washable.
They can also be used for light riding but are not designed as a heavy duty riding boot.
Sizing
Sabre Sneaker website:

http://sabresneakers.com/
orderinganddealers.html
Size
Width
Mini
2 - 2 1/2
Mini B
2 1/2 - 3
Pony
3 - 3 1/2
3 3/4 - 4 1/4
4 3/8 - 4 3/4
4 7/8 - 5 1/4
5 3/8 - 5 3/4
5 7/8 - 6 1/4
Cost
$100(US) each.
http://sabresneakers.com/orderinganddealers.html
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74
Castle Plastics Hoof Boot

The body of the Castle Plastics Hoofboot is constructed of lightweight neoprene rubber
Quick Links
and the bottom is a durable polyurethane. Simple to apply, the boot slips on and attaches
Castle Plastics Hoof Boot:
with a velcro closure for a secure fit. The website says it can be used for arena riding,
assist in medicating the hoof, for an injury and many more uses.
com/castle-plastics-hoofboot.
html
The bottom has a textured surface to prevent slipping and the boot closes with velcro
straps.
Sizing
Size
Width
Length
00
4 1/2 (115mm)
4 7/8 (124mm)
4 3/4 (121mm)
5 1/8 (130mm)
5 (127mm)
5 3/8 (136mm)
5 3/8 (136mm)
5 3/4 (146mm)
5 5/8 (142mm)
6 1/8 (151mm)
Cost
Approx $37(US) each - larger sizes are slightly more.
www.castleplastics.com/distributors/index.htm
Castle Plastics website:

www.castleplastics.com/
distributors/index.htm
75
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Hoofix Emergency Boot
Quick Links
The Hoofix Emergency Boot is extremely lightweight at less than 5oz and is very compact
Hoofix Emergency Boot:
so it can be taken with you on rides. It is made of a high-tech fabric that provides long
wear without being bulky or heavy.
com/hoofix-emergency-boot.
html
The sole is skid resistant and made from a material that incorporates ground tires. Each
boot comes with a pastern band to prevent rubbing.
The boot slips on easily and is secured with velcro ankle straps and can be used as
both an emergency boot or as a therapy boot, although there is also a Treatment boot
available which is slightly larger size-wise.
Sizing
The Emergency Boot comes in two sizes: small horse (4 1/2 x 5 1/2) and regular horse
(5 1/4 x 6).
Manufacturers website:
The Treatment Boot comes in three sizes: medium pony (4 3/4 x 5 3/4), regular horse
www.plumshadefarm.com/
(5 1/4 x 6) and large horse (5 3/4 x 6 1/2).
products.asp
Cost
www.plumshadefarm.com/products.asp
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76
Equine Slipper
The Equine Slipper Rehab Boot was developed to aid in treating, medicating and
Quick Links
protecting the equine hoof. It provides protection, keeps the hoof clean, holds medication
Equine Slipper:
in place, replaces bulky foot wraps, is safe and easy to apply, and is 100% machine
washable!
com/equine-slipper.html
The body is made from heavy ply cordura and is attached to a high-grade leather base
which makes it both durable and pliable and so comfortable for the horse.
The opening is wide to make it easy to put on and take off and is closed using velcro
tabs. It is designed for indoor use as use outside will increase the wear on the slipper.
Sizing
Size
Width
Length
Small
4 3/4
4 1/2
Medium
5 3/4
Large
6 1/2
6 1/2
Extra Large 7 1/2
7 1/2
Cost
http://bluegrass-equine.com/
products/the-equine-slipper

http://bluegrass-equine.com/products/the-equine-slipper
77
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Boa Horse Boot
Quick Links
The Boa Horse Boot uses the unique Boa Lacing System which is based on the design
Boa Horse Boot:
used in snowboard boots. This makes them very easy to put on and take off and allows
fine adjustments to be made. They are robustly made using leather and have a urethane
com/boa-horse-boot.html
sole and are a bit less bulky than the Old Macs. The breakover is fairly good although its
a good idea to rasp it wider ie further out to each side, and they have good traction.
I have one pair of these boots which I like, although they can be tricky to deal with when
they have been in muddy water as the dial and cap can be hard to grip. Also they are
easy to over tighten which will cause bruising under the dial on the front hoof wall and
coronet (there is a pad that you can buy to prevent this). I used my pair for over a year
(although I didnt use them that often) and they showed no signs of wear.
Sizing
It is important to match the width and length of the hoof to the boot size. The front
hooves of most horses tend to be more round and wider than the hind hooves. The best
fit may require a smaller size for the hind.
If the width and length measurements indicate different sizes, select the larger size.
Size
Width
Length
00
3 1/2 - 3 7/8 (89-98mm)
4 - 4 3/8 (101-111mm)
3 7/8 - 4 1/4 (98-108mm)
4 3/8 - 4 5/8 (111-117mm)
4 1/4 - 4 7/8 (108-124mm)
4 5/8 - 5 1/8 (117-130mm)
4 7/8 - 5 1/4 (124-133mm)
5 1/8 - 5 3/8 (130-136mm)
5 1/4 - 5 7/8 (133-149mm)
5 3/8 - 5 7/8 (136-149mm)
5 7/8 - 6 1/4 (149-159mm)
5 7/8 - 6 1/4 (149-159mm)
6 1/4 - 6 11/16 (159-169mm)
6 1/4 - 6 11/16 (159-169mm)
6 11/16 - 6 15/16 (169-176mm)
6 11/16 - 6 15/16 (169-176mm)
6 15/16 - 7 3/8 (176-186mm)
6 15/16 - 7 3/8 (176-186mm)
7 3/8 - 7 1/2 (186-192mm)
7 3/8 - 7 7/8 (186-200mm)
Cost
Approx $164(US) per pair.
www.easycareinc.com
www.easycareinc.com
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78
Easyboot Bare
The Easyboot Bare has been under development since early 2005. I have no personal
Quick Links
experience of them but they are becoming very popular and have been used in 100 and
Easyboot Bare:
250 mile endurance events under some extreme conditions. They are a little tricky to
initially fit but perform well once they are on and provide a simple, close-fitting boot that
com/easyboot-bare.html
constantly adjusts to the hoof.

The Easyboot Bare is designed to stretch and flex, mimicking the movements of the
naturally bare hoof. The sole has also been modeled on the barefoot hoof.
The 2007 model has a lower profile comfort strap, thicker bungee and improved rivets.
Sizing
Ideally, the width and length measurement will fit into the same boot size. If the width
and length measurements indicate different boot sizes, select the larger size. If the width
and length measurements are different by more than one size, EasyCare hoof boots are
not recommended.
Size
Width
Length
Pony
3 3/16 - 3 3/8 (78-85mm)
3 3/8 - 3 5/8 (85-92mm)
000
3 3/8 - 3 13/16 (86-97mm)
3 5/8 - 4 3/16 (93-105mm)
00
3 13/16 - 4 3/8 (98-110mm)
4 3/16 - 4 5/8 (106-117mm)
4 3/8 - 4 9/16 (111-116mm)
4 5/8 - 4 15/16 (118-124mm)
4 9/16 - 4 7/8 (117-123mm)
4 15/16 - 5 1/8 (125-130mm)
4 7/8 - 5 1/8 (124-130mm)
5 1/8 - 5 9/16 (131-140mm)
5 1/8 - 5 1/2 (131-139mm)
5 9/16 - 5 15/16 (141-150mm)
5 1/2 - 5 15/16 (140-150mm)
5 15/16 - 6 7/16 (151-163mm)
5 15/16 - 6 7/16 (151-163mm)
6 7/16 - 6 7/8 (164-174mm)
6 7/16 - 6 7/8 (164-175mm)
6 7/8 - 7 7/16 (175-188mm)
6 7/8 - 7 9/16 (176-192mm)
7 7/16 - 7 3/4 (189-195mm)
Cost
Approx $75(US) each - sizes 3-7 are around $90 each.
www.easycareinc.com

www.easycareinc.com
79
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Marquis Supergrip Boot
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The Marquis Supergrip Boot is made in Germany by Dr Helmut Marquis.
Marquis Supergrip Boot:

They are unique in that the fit is attained using air chambers that you pump up after
com/marquis-supergrip-boot.
placing the boot on the hoof. These chambers hug the bulbs of the hoof, holding the
html
boot firmly, and comfortably, in place. They provide an optimal fit and enable adaption to
differences in size and shape which means the fit will adapt as the hoof remodels during
the transition phase.
Also the front of the boot can accommodate various toe angles through its unique design.
After studying the gliding and stopping characteristics of the bare hoof the Marquis
synthestic sole was developed to closely match those characteristics.
All parts are replaceable including the sole and there are removeable studs available for
extra traction and a sliding plate is being developed for reiners.
The boot comes in black as standard but there is also a flourescent yellow special edition
available for safety in poor light conditions.
Sizing
A heel height of between 1 - 1 9/16 (25-40mm) is the ideal range for this boot. The air
chambers can be adjusted if the heel is higher such as in the case of a club foot.
Sizing
Size
Width
3 12/16 - 4 8/16 (95-114mm)
4 8/16 - 4 13/16 (115-122mm)
4 14/16 - 5 3/16 (123-132mm)
5 4/16 - 5 8/16 (133-140mm)
5 9/16 - 5 14/16 (141-149mm)
5 15/16 - 6 4/16 (150-158mm)
Cost
RRP $299(US) per pair.
Marquis website:
www.marquisboot.com
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80
Old Mac Horse Boot

The Old Mac Horse Boot was developed by an Australian farrier, David MacDonald. The
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original design was fairly round which made it a little tricky to fit to most recovering
Old Mac Horse Boot:
hooves as the hooves tended to be more oblong. However the new G2 boot has
addressed this issue and have been re-engineered for a sleeker look, better performance
com/old-mac-horse-boot.
and greater longevity.
html
I have had three pairs of original Old Mac Horse Boots and I think they are good. They
are very easy to get on and off. The only issues I had are with them wearing out in the
heel region and the poor traction on wet grass. These issues have been covered by the
re-design of the G2. The G2 also has improved breakover at the toe - the original version
had a point on them which needed to be rasped off to achieve a better breakover (see
photo - the new G2 is on the left).
Sizing
Old Mac Horse Boots are available in 9 sizes (0-8) with each size increasing by 5mm
(3/16 inch) in width and length. Before you take hoof measurements, please ensure your
horse has an accurate trim.
The correct Old Mac Horse Boot size is the LARGEST of the sizes you selected from the
charts. It is most often the length size. Sizes determined from hoof length and width will
often differ; choose the largest size, NOT the smaller size NOR a size in between.
If the LENGTH exceeds the WIDTH by 4 or more sizes, Inserts may be indicated, but
FIRST, please double check to ensure that you havent included the heel bulbs in the
measurement.
Size
Width
Length
4 1/8 - 4 5/16 (105-110mm)
3 3/4 - 3 15/16 (95-100mm)
4 5/16 - 4 1/2 (110-115mm)
3 15/16 - 4 1/8 (100-105mm)
4 1/2 - 4 11/16 (115-120mm)
4 1/8 - 4 5/16 (105-110mm)
4 11/16 - 4 7/8 (120-125mm)
4 5/16 - 4 1/2 (110-115mm)
4 7/8 - 5 1/16 (125-130mm)
4 1/2 - 4 11/16 (115-120mm)
5 1/16 - 5 1/4 (130-135mm)
4 11/16 - 4 7/8 (120-125mm)
5 1/4 - 5 7/16 (135-140mm)
4 7/8 - 5 1/16 (125-130mm)
5 7/16 - 5 5/8 (140-145mm)
5 1/16 - 5 1/4 (130-135mm)
5 5/8 - 5 13/16 (145-150mm)
5 1/4 - 5 7/16 (135-140mm)
www.easycareinc.com
Cost
Approx $164(US) per pair - sizes 7 and 8 are around $180. www.easycareinc.com
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Easyboot & Easyboot Epic
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There are two options available - the Easyboot which has no gaitor and the Easyboot Epic
Easyboot Epic:
which has a gaitor. The Easyboot Epic is one of my favourite boots. I have been using
them for the last three years and they perform very well. I use them with the gaitor as this
com/easyboot-epic.html
makes them very secure on the hoof and much less likely to get lost especially if used for
turnout. If you use them without the gaitor you need to make sure you get a really tight fit.
The gaitors dont last forever but you can get replacements and Easycare are good about
replacing defective ones. (With the older style gaitors the stitching was a weak spot, but
they have improved and reinforced the stitching in the new updated gaitors.)
The boots tighten using a cable and buckle system which allows numerous adjustments
and the newer models have a stronger cable that resists fraying. The tread on the bottom
of the boot is really durable and as all the parts on the boot can be replaced should they
break that means you will get many miles out of the boot. I have a couple of pairs that are
3 years old and there is very little wear on the tread.
The breakover isnt bad but can be improved by rasping the toe between the 10 and 2
oclock positions. Using pads in the boots helps stimulate the sole and frog and also helps
secure the boot if it is a little loose on the hoof.
Sizing
Ideally, the width and length measurement will fit into the same boot size. If the width and
length measurements indicate different boot sizes, select the larger Easyboot Epic size. If
the width and length measurements are different by more than one size, EasyCare hoof
boots are not recommended.
Size
Width
Length
Pony
3 3/16 - 3 3/8 (78-85mm)
3 3/8 - 3 5/8 (85-92mm)
000
3 3/8 - 3 13/16 (86-97mm)
3 5/8 - 4 3/16 (93-105mm)
00
3 13/16 - 4 3/8 (98-110mm)
4 3/16 - 4 5/8 (106-117mm)
4 3/8 - 4 9/16 (111-116mm)
4 5/8 - 4 15/16 (118-124mm)
4 9/16 - 4 7/8 (117-123mm)
4 15/16 - 5 1/8 (125-130mm)
4 7/8 - 5 1/8 (124-130mm)
5 1/8 - 5 9/16 (131-140mm)
5 1/8 - 5 1/2 (131-139mm)
5 9/16 - 5 15/16 (141-150mm)
5 1/2 - 5 15/16 (140-150mm)
5 15/16 - 6 7/16 (151-163mm)
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5 15/16 - 6 7/16 (151-163mm)
6 7/16 - 6 7/8 (164-174mm)
6 7/16 - 6 7/8 (164-175mm)
6 7/8 - 7 7/16 (175-188mm)
6 7/8 - 7 9/16 (176-192mm)
7 7/16 - 7 3/4 (189-195mm)
Cost
Approx $75(US) each - sizes 3-7 are around $90 each. www.easycareinc.com
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82
Renegade Hoof Boot

The Renegade Hoof Boot is one of the newest designs currently on the market (2008) and
comes in a wide variety of colours.
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Renegade Hoof Boot:
The manufacturer states that the Renegade Hoof Boot is the most thoroughly
com/renegade-hoof-boot.
developed and most highly tested new hoof boot design ever... and all before going to
html
the open market.

I have not yet tried them but I love the look of the boots and think they will provide a
great talking point for getting bare feet noticed!
The design highly respects the soft tissue of the hoof capsule and lower leg and does not
obstruct the movement of the pastern bones.
Sizing
In nearly all cases, boot width will be the dominate measurement for determining boot
size. In the case of a hoof fitting the width of the boot but the length of the boot is more
than needed, the manufacturer will trim down the back of the boot by up to 3/8(10mm)
at no charge.
Also consider the height of the heels for the horse in question. The boot was designed
primarily for low heels and short toes but will also work for medium height heels. Horses
with high heels my have problems using the boot and in most cases will also need over
length cables. For these horses it is suggested that the high heels be addressed through
natural hoof care methods as a precursor to fitting the boots.
Size
Width
00
4 3/16 (106.5mm)
Length
Renegade website:
www.renegadehoofboots.
com/index.html
4 3/4 (120.5mm)
4 9/16 (116mm)
5 (127mm)
4 3/4 (121mm)
5 1/4 (134mm)
5 (127mm)
5 1/2 (140mm)
2W
5 1/4 (133mm)
5 1/2 (140mm)
Cost
RRP $84.50(US) each.
www.renegadehoofboots.com/index.html
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Hoofwing Boot
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The Hoofwing Boot (formerly HorseSneakers) were one of the first hoof boots developed
Hoofwing Boot:
for barefoot horses back in 1986 and are semi-custom made from measurements of your
horses hooves.
com/hoofwing-boot.html
Their open design allows excellent air circulation which makes it possible to keep them
on 24/7 which makes them great for rehab. Improvements to their original design make
Hoofwings excellent for trail riding and many other horse activities.
The Hoofwing base is made with a very durable urethane with thousands of tiny air bubbles
incorporated into it. These bubbles reduce concussion and make the bases very lightweight. If you require extra traction the manufacturer will inbed sand into the base or for
even more traction, carbide chips.
The wings are made with a stretchable kevlar fabric laminated to an open cell neoprenelike material.
The entire Hoofwing is repairable. They come in a variety of colors including: black, red,
gray, blue, white, brown, yellow, orange and green.
Width
Length
Width
Length
3 (76mm)
3 1/2 (89mm)
5 3/4 (146mm)
6 1/4 (159mm)
3 1/2 (89mm)
4 (102mm)
6 (152mm)
6 (152mm)
4 (102mm)
4 1/2 (114mm)
6 (152mm)
6 1/2 (165mm)
4 1/4 (108mm)
4 3/4 (121mm)
6 1/2 (165mm)
7 (178mm)
4 1/2 (114mm)
5 (127mm)
6 3/4 (172mm)
7 1/4 (184mm)
4 3/4 (121mm)
5 1/4 (133mm)
7 (178mm)
7 1/2 (191mm)
5 (127mm)
5 (127mm)
7 1/2 (191mm)
8 (203mm)
5 (127mm)
5 1/2 (140mm)
8 (203mm)
8 1/2 (216mm)
5 1/4 (133mm)
5 3/4 (146mm)
8 1/2 (216mm)
9 (229mm)
5 1/4 (133mm)
6 Hind (152mm)
9 (229mm)
9 1/2 (235mm)
5 1/2 (133mm)
6 (152mm)
9 (229mm)
9 1/2 Hind (235mm)
5 3/4 (146mm)
5 3/4 (146mm)
Full custom Hoofwings can be made to fit any size or shape hooves.
www.horsneaker.com/index.
htm
Cost
RRP from $169-270(US) depending on size, per pair.
www.horsneaker.com/index.htm
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84
Easyboot Grip
The Easyboot Grip is basically the same boot as the Epic but with a much more
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aggressive tread pattern on the sole. It comes with the gaitor which makes them very
Easyboot Grip:
secure on the hoof and much less likely to fall off and get lost.
com/easyboot-grip.html
They a designed purely for use in soft muddy conditions, wet grass and snow and should
not be used on dry, hard surfaces.
The boots tighten using a cable and buckle system which allows numerous adjustments
and the newer models have a stronger cable that resists fraying. All the parts on the boot
can be replaced should they break, which means you will get many miles out of the boot.
The breakover isnt bad but can be improved by rasping the toe between the 10 and 2
oclock positions.
Using pads in the boots helps stimulate the sole and frog and also helps secure the boot if
it is a little loose on the hoof.
Sizing
Ideally, the width and length measurement will fit into the same boot size. If the width
www.easycareinc.com
and length measurements indicate different boot sizes, select the larger Easyboot Epic
size. If the width and length measurements are different by more than one size, EasyCare
hoof boots are not recommended.
Size
Width
Length
4 3/8 - 4 9/16 (111-116mm)
4 5/8 - 4 15/16 (118-124mm)
4 9/16 - 4 7/8 (117-123mm)
4 15/16 - 5 1/8 (125-130mm)
4 7/8 - 5 1/8 (124-130mm)
5 1/8 - 5 9/16 (131-140mm)
5 1/8 - 5 1/2 (131-139mm)
5 9/16 - 5 15/16 (141-150mm)
Cost
www.easycareinc.com
85
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Simple Boot
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The Simple Boot by Cavallo is made of a leather upper with a Softee leather foam-filled
Simple Boot:
collar for comfort around the top. The sole is made of a high performance thermo plastic
urethane compound and has an all-terrain tread pattern to minimize mud build-up and a
com/simple-boot.html
recessed center to minimize pressure.The inside of the sole also has a 0.6mm raised rim
to provide sole relief for the hoof. The boot fastens at the front with industrial grade velcro
closures.
They are constructed to be durable with rustproof metal and waterproof thread and have
built-in drainage.
Sizing
Simple Boots are available in 7 sizes (0-6). Before you take hoof measurements, please
ensure your horse has an accurate trim. The boots allow for growth in between regular
trims.
The boot sizes are calculated by hoof length only. However you should also measure the
width because if the width exceeds the length by more than one size these boots may not
be suitable for your horse.
Important Size Notes: If your horse is between sizes, go to the larger size.
Size
Width
4 - 4 1/14 (102-109mm)
4 5/16 - 4 9/16 (110-117mm)
4 5/8 - 4 7/8 (118-125mm)
4 15/16 - 5 3/16 (126-133mm)
5 1/4 - 5 1/2 (134-141mm)
5 9/16 - 5 13/16 (142-149mm)
5 7/8 - 6 1/8 (150-157mm)
Cost
$119.95(US) per pair.
www.cavallo-inc.com/
www.cavallo-inc.com/horseboots.html
horseboots.html
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86
Swiss Horse Boot

The original Swiss Horse Boot was invented in 1979 by Hubert Rohner and over the years
it has been updated and improved.
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Swiss Horse Boot:
They are made of high quality plastic and are molded as one piece so the are no joints.
com/swiss-horse-boot.html
The boot closes using a strap and buckle at the front - the latest improvement has been
to replace the metal buckle with a safer plastic buckle.
They come in a dark brown color and weigh approx 360 grams (13oz).
They are designed to be very close fitting boots and are heated prior to the first
application so that they mold to the individual hoof. Subsequent applications often require
the use of a rubber mallet to seat the boot on the hoof.
Sizing
Size
Width
00
3 3/8 - 4
4 - 4 5/16
01
4 1/2 - 4 6/8 (special version 2/8 narrower at heel)
4 1/2 - 4 6/8
5 - 5 1/8
5 3/8 - 5 1/2
5 3/4 - 6
Cost
RRP $63.90(US) each.
www.swisshorseboot.de/ca/html4/index.html
www.swisshorseboot.de/ca/
html4/index.html
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Easyboot Glove
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The Easyboot Glove is a form-fitting, seamless boot that is flexible yet tough. It provides
Easyboot Glove:
traction and protection to the hoof without affecting mobility.
com/easyboot-glove.html
The boot material stretches over the hoof and clings to the wall, just like a glove, hence
the name. There are no buckles or straps on the lower part of the boot and the flexible
reinforced gaitor ensures that the boot stays in place.
The boots also come in half-sizes so that you can get the best possible fit for your horse.
Sizing
These boots are very dependent on a good fit so be sure to measure accurately. They must
be snug. EasyCare suggest you measure using the metric system as the the measurements
will be more accurate.
Size
Width
00
96-99mm
106-109mm
00.5
100-103mm
110-113mm
104-107mm
114-117mm
0.5
108-111mm
118-121mm
112-115mm
122-125mm
1.5
116-119mm
126-129mm
120-123mm
130-133mm
2.5
124-127mm
134-137mm
128-131mm
138-141mm
Cost
Approx $56(US) each. www.easycareinc.com

www.easycareinc.com
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88
Length
Horse-Mocs Boot
The Horse-Mocs boot is a custom made hoof boot that is easy to slip on and off.
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Horse-Mocs Boot:
Each boot is handmade with a neoprene rubber top which is lined with a smooth, soft
fleece fabric and covered with Velcro loop on the outside.
com/horse-mocs.html
The sole is made with a special polymer rubber compound that is cast to the exact outline
of your horses hoof. The top side of the sole has a neoprene cover, coated with Kevlar,
which gives the hoof extra cushioning.
The boot is very sturdy, so will also withstand being used for turnout during rehabilitation,
whilst still being comfortable and soft on the skin.
Hand-washable.
Sizing
Custom made to fit your horse.
www.horsemocs.com/
Cost
RRP from $65-85(US) depending on size, each.
www.horsemocs.com/
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Easyboot Glue On
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The Easyboot Glue On consists of a lightweight shell with thin walls than allows the boot
Easyboot Glue On:
to stretch and conform to the hoof. It is designed to offer traction and protection to horses
undertaking speed and long distance events.
com/easyboot-glue-on.html
The boots are glued onto the hoof wall using a glue such as Vettec Adhere and are designed
to be disposable - being used once or twice at most. There are no buckles or straps which
makes the boot resemble a second skin over the hoof. You can also trim them down to
custom fit them to your horses hoof.
The boots require a snug fit and the foot must be dry during application. The should not be
left on for more than 5-10 days depending on the environment.
Sizing
be snug. EasyCare suggest you measure using the metric system as the the measurements
will be more accurate.
Size
Width
Length
00
96-99mm
106-109mm
00.5
100-103mm
110-113mm
104-107mm
114-117mm
0.5
108-111mm
118-121mm
112-115mm
122-125mm
1.5
116-119mm
126-129mm
120-123mm
130-133mm
2.5
124-127mm
134-137mm
128-131mm
138-141mm
Cost
Approx $24(US) each or $92 for a set of four.
www.easycareinc.com
www.easycareinc.com
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90
Marquis Glue On
The Marquis Glue On was adapted from the Marquis Supergrip Boot and so provides the
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same gliding and stopping characteristics of the bare hoof as the Marquis synthestic sole
Marquis Glue On:
was developed to closely match those characteristics.
com/marquis-glue-on.html
They are very flexible yet tough and they can be used again and again.
The inside base consists of a thick honeycomb frame with a dense rubber frog cushion
on the middle. The replaceable baseplace screws into it and enables the boot to take
attachments such as a slider plate for reiners or studs for slippery conditions.
They will stayed well attached for approx 10 days at a time.
Sizing
Size
Width
3 12/16 - 4 8/16 (95-114mm)
4 8/16 - 4 13/16 (115-122mm)
4 14/16 - 5 3/16 (123-132mm)
5 4/16 - 5 8/16 (133-140mm)
5 9/16 - 5 14/16 (141-149mm)
5 15/16 - 6 4/16 (150-158mm)
Cost
Approx $69.99(US) each
www.marquisboot.com
www.marquisboot.com
91
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Renegade Glue On
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The Renegade Glue On was originally developed as a specialized glue-on in 2001 for use
Renegade Glue On:
in competitions. They have since been updated and patented. They are a flexible, durable
and long lasting alternative to nailed on shoes. They are not intended for long term use but
com/renegade-glue-on.html
have stayed well attached for over five weeks at a time.

The boots come in a wide variety of colours including Sport Orange, Dragon Fire Red, Yellow
Gold, Arizona Copper, Burgandy Blitz, Jade, Choco Latte and Black Knight.
Sizing
be snug. EasyCare suggest you measure using the metric system as the measurements will
be more accurate.
Size
Width
Length
00
4 3/16 (106.5mm)
4 3/4 (120.5mm)
4 9/16 (116mm)
5 (127mm)
4 3/4 (121mm)
5 1/4 (134mm)
5 (127mm)
5 1/2 (140mm)
Cost
Approx $24.95(US) each.
www.renegadehoofboots.com/index.html
www.renegadehoofboots.
com/index.html
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92
Natural Horsemanship
Building strong relationships based on trust
Natural horsemanship is achieved by working with the horses behavior, instincts and
personality in a clear and kind manner.
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Natural Horsemanship:
There are many trainers who practice these methods including: John Lyons, Mark Rashid,
com/natural-horsemanship.
Brent Graef, Linda Tellington-Jones, Monty Roberts, Tom Dorrance, Pat Parelli, Chris Irwin
html
and Buck Brannaman. Each one of these trainers have their own style and methods.
Natural Horsemanship is available to everyone - you can learn how to effectively and kindly
work with your horse using these methods. Studies of horses in the wild has given the
foundation on which natural horsemanship is based.
Body language is used to communicate to the horse and by learning to listen to the horse
by watching for subtle moves that indicate understanding, a two-way conversation can be
achieved.
It is a truly beautiful sight to see horse and human working as one with trust and respect.
That is the essence of true horsemanship.
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Mark Rashid
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Mark Rashid is an internationally acclaimed horse trainer based in Estes Park, Colorado.
Mark Rashid:
He has been working with horses since he was 10 years old after meeting the old man
(his mentor and a character who features strongly in his first few books). The old man
com/mark-rashid.html
taught Mark to work with the horse, not against it and to listen to what the horse is trying
to say.
www.markrashid.com
Mark continues to look to understand the horses point of view and aims to solve
problems through communication rather than force. He does this using his training idea of
passive leadership - based on the type of herd leader who leads by example as opposed
to the alpha horse that rules through dominance. Passive leaders are dependable from
one day to the next and the other herd members can respect them because they are
consistent.
His clinics are held around the world and Mark works with both the horse and rider in a
one-on-one session.
He also studies the martial art of aikido to help his horsemanship and brings his quiet
determination to everything he does.
Mark has been on NRPs The Horse Show and also featured in the PBS Nature series. Over
Books available from:
the years Mark has written eight books: Considering the Horse; A Good Horse is Never a
www.amazon.com
Bad Color; Horses Never Lie; Life Lessons from a Ranch Horse; Horsemanship Through
Life; Big Horses, Good Dogs and Straight Fences; In the Company of Horses; and A Life
with Horses all of which I highly recommend reading. To see more info and reviews on
each book, visit www.amazon.com
For more information about Mark Rashid visit his website: www.markrashid.com
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94
Tom Dorrance - True Unity

Tom Dorrance (May 11, 1910 - June 11, 2003) based his methods on three things: feel,
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timing and balance. He listened to the horse to try and find out what the horse was trying
Tom Dorrance:
to tell him. Then he could work out whether the horse understood or could find what
was bothering him. From this informed standpoint, he got a feel for where the horse was
com/tom-dorrance.html
coming from.
www.tomdorrance.com
Throughout his life, Tom devoted a lot of thought to how to communicate with the horse.
He studied their actions and reactions so that he could find the best way to present
himself so that the horses would respond to what he was asking. It was his belief that
true unity and willing communication come from within.
The book True Unity was first published in 1987 and is still available from Amazon.
www.tomdorrance.com

www.amazon.com
95
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Brent Graef
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Brent Graef is dedicated to helping people find a way to provide their horses with a better deal
Brent Graef:
through seeing things from the horses perspective.
com/brent-graef.html
With his gift for teaching, he helps people to understand how the horse views things and how to
present things to the horse in a way that makes sense to the horse. By preparing the horse in
www.brentgraef.com
this way it makes the right response more obvious.

His aim is to get a horse to follow a feel and seek the release which creates a thinking horse who
is supple and soft. He does not believe in methods that just up the pressure until the horse finds
a way to escape it to find relief. He wants the horse to do the right thing because he understands
what is being asked rather than just choosing the lesser of two evils.
He feels that to be a good leader you should aim to be a good, solid and caring partner rather
than a dictating alpha who makes all the decisions.
Brent considers the horse to be the greatest of teachers, and one who is able to teach us so
much if we take the time to learn how to listen. He teaches this approach with a genuine care
and passion for both horses and people.
For more information on Brents philosophy and clinic schedule visit www.brentgraef.com
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96
Linda Tellington-Jones - Tellington TTouch Training

Linda Tellington-Jones is the pioneer of the Tellington Method, a system of training,
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healing and communication. It has its roots in a philosophy that sees all beings as
Linda Tellington-Jones:
reflections of a Divine Whole. The Tellington Method was created over forty years ago
to help people to relate to animals in a more compassionate way that connects through
com/linda-tellington-jones.
mind, body and spirit.
html
Lindas revolutionary and highly effective approach has brought her worldwide
recognition. The TTEAM (Tellington TTouch Equine Awareness Method) was first developed
www.lindatellingtonjones.
com
in the 1970s. It offers an approach that encourages optimal performance and health and
provides solutions to physical and common behavioral problems. It includes three phases:
The Tellington TTouch
Learning exercises from the ground
The Joy of Riding
She has gained international acclaim as an authority on animal behavior, training and
healing, gives demonstrations throughout the world and has written many books and
produced videos on the subject.
For more information visit www.lindatellingtonjones.com
www.amazon.com
97
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Monty Roberts
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As a child, Monty Roberts witnessed horses being broken by traditional, violent methods and
Monty Roberts:
also experienced abuse from his father which led him to look for kinder ways to deal with horses.
com/monty-roberts.html
He spent a lot of time studying how horses behave in the wild and how they respond in the herd
situation.
www.montyroberts.com
This led him to experiment with using the horses natural instincts in ways that he could start to
build an understanding and communicate with the horse in its own language - which he terms
Equus and which earned him the title of the horse whisperer.
His Join-Up method developed from this and he has been internationally successful in
demonstrating this way of starting and re-starting (he does not use the term breaking) horses.
He has had an illustrious career, highlights of which include:
www.amazon.com
1986 - first public demonstration of Join-Up
1989 - Queen Elizabeth II invited Monty to Windsor Castle to demonstrate Join-up and train
her staff
1996 - Published his first book The Man Who Listens to Horses
1999 - His second book and documentary Shy Boy: The Horse that Came in from the Wild airs
2001 - His third book Horse Sense for People is published
2002 - His fourth book From My Hands to Yours is released
2004 - His fifth book The Horses in My Life is published in Great Britain, Germany and Australia
2005 - Monty is awarded an honorary doctorate from the University of Parma for his work in
animal psychology
I highly recommend his books, some of which are available for loan at your local library.
Monty continues to tour the world to demonstrate his non-violent methods. For more information
visit: www.montyroberts.com
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98
Natural Horsemanship Halter

How to make a rope halter
by Connie Nygard
Quick Links
Halter Instructions:
Materials needed
20 feet of 1/4 inch polyester rope.
com/natural-horsemanship-
Matches to melt and seal the ends of rope (or to burn these instructions if you get frustrated).
halter.html
Note
These directions are for an adult horse with a small head. I use 18 feet of rope but you may need
more for a bigger head. If you get confused it is best to untie all knots and start over.
Caution:
Do not leave any halter on a loose horse.
This halter may break if a horse is tied up with it.
This halter may cut if a horse fights it.
Not recommended for tying a horse in a trailer.
Not responsible for misuse of halter.
Directions
Tie simple knots at the distances shown below. Measurements are from knot to knot and do
not include knot. Make the knots firm but not tight because you will be bringing the rope back
around to tie into those knots. The last knot in about the middle of the rope is a knot with a loop
for the tie loop of the halter.
After you tie the tie loop you go back and tie into the knots you have already tied. (Editors note:
make sure you lay out the rope in front of you exactly as shown - otherwise its very easy to get
lost when you start to tie back into the knots!)
To tie into a knot, loosen knot and tie into knot following rope path.
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Tie into the left nose knot first. Then then right nose knot to make a double rope over the
Quick Links
nose. (Editors note: remember to keep the rope laid out as shown...youll regret it if you
dont!)
Tie into the throat latch knot. Arrange halter as shown so it makes sense. And tie into the right
ear knot.
Gather the two 33inch sections and tie a big ugly knot at the chin. Test all knots before putting
halter on horse. If halter falls apart, knots are not tied correctly. Untie all knots and start over.
Slip knots to adjust size of halter. Trim tie ends the same length and melt them with a match
to seal the ends. I dont attach the two ends together.
1995 Connie Nygard
These instructions may be given away but not sold.
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100
Now if you are feeling really brave and confident after completing that one, you can get even
fancier by using the instructions below for a halter with a Fiador knot...
Quick Links
101
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Horse Facts
Classification of the Horse
Quick Links
They are a subspecies of the the family Equidae
Horse Care Glossary:

The correct Latin name for the horse is Equus ferus caballus.
They are an ungulate mammal which means hooved animal.
com/horse-facts.html
They evolved from a small multi-toed creature to the horse we know today over the
last 50 million years
Horses were first domesticated around 4500 BC
Horses are prey animals who rely on speed to escape from predators
They are also herd animals who rely on safety in numbers and require social
interation with each other
There are over 300 different breeds of horses
Horse Facts: Age
You can tell the age of a horse by examining his teeth
Domesticated horses have an average life expectancy of 25 to 30 years
The oldest recorded horse was Old Billy who lived to the age of 62
Foal is the term that describes a male or female horse that is less than one year old
Yearling is the term that describes a male or female horse that between one and two
years old
A mare is a female horse who is four years or older
A filly is a female horse who is under four years old
A stallion is a male horse who is four years or older
A colt is a male horse who is under four years old
A gelding is a male horse who has been castrated
Size
Horses are measured in hands - one hand being equal 4 inches (10cm)

The measurement is taken from the ground to the top of the withers
Pony is the term generally used to describe an animal that measures 14.2h or
under
Horse is the term used to describe an animal that measures over 14.2h
Miniature horses measure in at less than 30
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102
Colors
Bay - body color ranges from light reddish-brown to dark brown and the legs, tail and
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mane are black

Brown - body color ranges from light reddish-brown to dark brown
Chestnut - body color ranges from light reddish-brown to dark brown with no black
points. Mane and tail are the same shade or lighter.
Grey - can range from white to dark grey but all have black skin
Black - coat, mane and tail are all black
Buckskin - cream coat with black legs, mane and tail
Dun - cream coat with black legs, mane and tail plus black stripe along spine
Cremello - very light cream coat and most often with blue eyes
Leopard/Appaloosa - horse has spots, mottled skin around the eyes, lips and genitalia
and also has a white sclera of the eye
Palomino - golden, yellow or tan shade with flaxen or white mane and tail
Pinto - multi-colored horse with large patches usually either brown and white or black
and white
Roan - has white hairs evenly intermixed with body color and solid-colored head
White - very rare and has white coat with pink skin
Horse Facts: Reproduction
Pregnancy lasts for approx 335-340 days
Foals are able to stand and run within a very short time after birth
Horses are considered mature at around four years old but their skeleton doesnt
finishing developing until they are around six
Anatomy
Horses have 205 bones in their skeleton
Horses have a special locking mechanism in their legs which enable them to sleep
standing up
103
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Digestion
Quick Links
Horses are herbivores which means they only eat plants

They have a small stomach so require a steady flow of food throughout the day and
night
They require approx 2 percent of their body weight in food per day
A 1,000 pound horse require approx 10-12 gallons of water per day
Senses
Horses have the largest eyes of any land mammal and have excellent day and night
vision
There range of vision is 350 degrees with two small blind spots, one directly in front
and one directly behind them
There ears can rotate up to 180 degrees to provide 360 degree hearing with having
to move their head
Horse Facts: Movement
Horses have four basic gaits: walk, trot, canter and gallop
The walk is a four beat gait with three feet on the ground at any one time
The trot is a two beat gait with diagonally opposite feet on the ground at the same
time
The canter or lope is a three beat gait with a moment of suspension where all four
feet are off the ground.
The gallop is a four beat gait and is the fastest gait for the horse
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104
Horse Care Glossary

Here in the horse care glossary you will find a list of common terms, and their meanings,
used in natural horse care.
Hoof Care Terms

Anterior or Dorsal - Located towards the front of the body (eg the front of the hoof).
Quick Links
Horse Care Glossary:
com/horse-care-glossary.html
Anterior/Posterior or A/P - Front to back.

Distal - The bottom of an anatomical structure (eg the distal edge of the coffin bone
would be the bottom: furthest away from the joint with the short pastern bone).
Distal Phalanx - Also known as the third phalanx, P-3, or the coffin bone in the equine
foot.
Lateral - Situated at, relating to, or on the side (eg the outside of the limb).
Medial - Situated in, relating to, or extending towards the middle (eg the inside of the
limb).
Medial/Lateral or M/L - From the inside to the outside or side-to-side.
Posterior or Caudal - Located towards the back of the body (eg the back portion of the
limb).
Proximal - The top of an anatomical structure (eg the proximal edge of the coffin bone
would be at the top, where it joins with the short pastern bone).
Ventral - The lower surface (eg the bottom of the hoof)
Dead Sole - Flaky, chalky sole material that exfoliates easily on scraping.
Live Sole - Sole tissue that is seen as waxy in appearance surface.
Quarters - In hoofcare terminology, this refers to the sides of the hoof wall. When
looking at the sole of a hoof, where the middle of the toe is at 12:00, the quarters would
be roughly between the 2:00 and 4:00 and the 8:00 and 10:00 positions.
Toe Callus - Area behind the toe wall which consists of calloused sole and protects and
supports the tip of the coffin bone.
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Commonly Used Abbreviations
Quick Links
ACE - Acepromazine
ACTH - Andrenocorticotropic Hormone
ACV - Apple Cider Vinegar
A/P - Anterior/Posterior
BCS - Body Condition Score
BP - Beet Pulp
CS - Colloidal Silver
DE - Diatomatous Earth
DEX Test - Dexmethasone Suppression Test
DMSO - Dimethyl Sulfoxide
ECD - Equine Cushings Disease
EPSM - Equine Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy
FF - Farriers Formula
FFS - Foward Foot Syndrome
GTT - Glucose Tolerance Test
HPA - Hoof Pastern Axis
IR - Insulin Resistance
Jherb - Jiaogulan
LIM - Less is More
LTLH - Long toe/Low heel
M/L - Medial/Lateral
NSC - Non Structual Carbohydrates (sugar+starch)
NFC - Non Fiber Carbohydrates
NO - Nitric Oxide
RBO - Rice Bran Oil
ROA - Recurrent Airway Obstruction
WLD - White Line Disease
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106

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give your horse the best care, naturally

Covers all aspects of Natural Horse Care

About this book

All Natural Horse Care ebook

I have been trimming my

Find answers to the following questions, plus much, much more:

now and I am always looking

own horse for about a year

About the Author........................ 5

& Photo Consultations.............33

Barefoot Hooves in Action........34

Soft-Ride Comfort Boot...........73

Barefoot For Soundness..........38

About the Author

own animals so I retrained, becoming a graphic designer.

Natural Horse Health - for a healthy body

Feeding for Natural Horse Health

Vitamins & Minerals:

Average calorie needs for a mature 1,100lbs horse:

16.4Mcal = 19lbs hay (approx 2% of body weight)

20.5Mcal = 25lbs hay

Mare, late pregnancy:

19.7Mcal = 23lbs hay

28.3Mcal = 33lbs hay

24.3Mcal = 28.5lbs hay

20.5Mcal = 25lbs hay

24.6Mcal = 29lbs hay

32.8Mcal = 38.5lbs hay

Vitamins and Minerals

beneficial (2,000 IU if in hard work).

Ca:P (Calcium:Phosphorus) ratio should be between 2:1 and 1.2:1

Ca:Mg (Calcium:Magnesium) ratio should be 2:1

Cu:Fe (Copper:Iron) ratio should be 1:4

Cu:Zn:Mn (Copper:Zinc:Manganese) ratio should be between 1:3:3 to 1:5:5

Vitamins & Minerals:

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)

Powdered and injectable.

Salt and Iodine

Jiaogulan - (Gynostemma pentaphyllum)

Jiaogulan (jow-goo-lawn) grows wild in China, as well as many other countries

this could lead to other problems.

Natural Boarding - for a healthy mind, body & spirit

Herdlife - the company of other horses/ponies

Living outside year round, with no clothes on...

Movement - over varied terrain

Access to grazing (or grass hay) 24/7

Free access to shelter

Free access to clean water

Here are a few more Paddock Paradise examples:

Natural Hoof Trimming - for a sounder horse

Greater shock absorption so fewer concussion related injuries.

Quicker heart rate recovery time after exercise.

No more worrying about shoes coming off during a ride/event.

Potential issues with a traditional pasture trim:

Barefoot hoof diagrams

Note the following points:

Wide, fat frog.

Sole view of a rear hoof

Side view of the hoof capsule

Coffin bone photos

Coffin bone views