Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
uk
Winter 2009
All at sea
Wave and
tidal power
Unique vision
Artist with a
different view
Beinn on TV
Highland haven
for wildlife
Contents
Features
8
Roots of PoeTree
Planting trees with words
32
12
22 Seal of approval
Removing risks to wildlife
38
61
Regulars
26
Where we are
SNH contact details
Welcome
Wild calendar
Where to go and what to see
this winter
14 Common heritage
Linking language and environment
24 News
Natural heritage updates
34 Events diary
Guide to whats on
36 Reserve focus
Discover Forvie NNR
42 Area news
Reports from round the country
47 Print out
Our latest publications
54 Kids only!
Activities for younger readers
64 Mailing list
Join our mailing list
www.snh.org.uk
Credits
Where we are
Area ofces
Published quarterly
SNH 2009
ISSN 1350 309X
Editor: John Walters
Tel. 01463 725 222
Cover photo: View north over Beinn Eighe NNR
towards Loch Maree from the summit ridge.
Inside cover: Quartzite rock on Beinn Eighe.
Welcome page: View of Arran from Ardrishaig
Photographer: Lorne Gill/SNH
Photography all images by Lorne Gill/SNH other
than:
Laurie Campbell 7t, 7b, 9, 40t; Laurie Campbell/
SNH 26, 58, 59b; George Logan/SNH 8, 21t, 21m,
44m; Peter Cairns/RSPB images.com 15;
Beatrice Wind Farm Demonstrator Project,
Talisman Energy (UK) Ltd 16; John Baxter/SNH
18; 16; Pelamis Wave Power Ltd 19; Charlie
Phillips 20; SMRU Ltd 22, 23; Jim Greeneld www.
oceaneyephoto.com 24; Mark Hamblin 25; Mark
Hamblin/RSPB images.com 28; Scotch Whisky
Association 31; Glyn Satterley 32b; www.
scottishviewpoint.com 32t, 33b; Richard Learoyd/
SNH 34; David Whitaker 38, 43r, 45m; Raymond
Besant 39; Robyn Glendinning 42l; Caroline
Crawford/SNH 42m; Jessica Langford 42r; Anthea
Davidson 43l; Allan Devlin 43m; Neil Mitchell/SNH
44r; John Phillips 45l; Scott Tibbles 45r; David
Geddes 48; Philip Ashmole 50, 51, 52, 53; John
MacPherson/SNH 56,60, 63; Annie Tuite 61.
To share your views about The Nature of
Scotland or suggest articles for future issues
please contact the editor:
SNH Magazine
Great Glen House, Leachkin Road,
Inverness IV3 8NW
Email: enquiries@snh.gov.uk
The views expressed in this magazine do not
necessarily reect those of SNH.
Corporate
headquarters
Great Glen House,
Leachkin Road,
Inverness IV3 8NW
Tel. 01463 725 000
Email: enquiries@snh.gov.uk
Silvan House,
3rd Floor East,
231 Corstorphine Road,
Edinburgh EH12 7AT
Tel. 0131 316 2600
North Highland
The Links,
Golspie Business Park,
Golspie,
Sutherland KW10 6UB
Tel. 01408 634 063
Caspian House,
Mariner Court,
Clydebank Business Park,
Clydebank G81 2NR
Tel. 0141 951 4488
West Highland
The Governors House,
The Parade, Fort William,
Inverness-shire PH33 6BA
Tel. 01397 704 716
Strathclyde and Ayrshire
Caspian House,
Mariner Court,
Clydebank Business Park,
Clydebank G81 2NR
Tel. 0141 951 4488
Tayside and
Clackmannanshire
Battleby, Redgorton,
Perth PH1 3EW
Tel. 01738 444 177
Western Isles
32 Francis Street,
Stornoway,
Isle of Lewis HS1 2ND
Tel. 01851 705 258
Welcome
Kenneth Fowler
Head of Information
and Communication
Scottish Natural Heritage
A big part of SNHs work involves encouraging people from all walks of life to get
outdoors and enjoy what nature has to offer. Getting outdoors isnt just good for
us physically; its also good for our mental well-being... for the soul, if you like.
It helps us experience different aspects of the world we live in and, hopefully, be
inspired by them.
Our mountains, rivers, forests and coastline are all things that spring to mind
when we think about being outdoors in Scotland. But its not just in the wilder
places that we can nd inspiration. Nature thats closer to home such as
farmland, local parks, community woodlands, paths and canals can also provide
an invaluable outdoor experience in our often hectic, mainly indoor, daily lives.
Wherever you live in Scotland, the natural world has the power to stir emotions
and inspire a creative response.
Scotlands rich and varied nature and landscapes have, for hundreds of years,
inspired artists of all kinds to put pen to paper, brush to canvas or more recently
to point the camera or click the mouse.
In this issue of The Nature of Scotland we explore how nature, both remote
and close to home, can encourage creativity. The artist Keith Salmon talks about
how he has combined his twin passions of painting and hill walking to create
stunning abstract landscape works. The fact that Keith has lost much of his sight
has not prevented him from being inspired by Scotlands natural environment,
from agricultural Ayrshire to the wilds of Sutherland.
We also feature the PoeTree project, where poet Kenneth Steven describes
his work helping children to explore and understand their local environment. He
encourages them to record their responses in poetry and prose after they visit a
woodland and experience trees with all their senses. It's a great example of how
nature on our doorstep can help us look at the world in different ways.
Two national nature reserves (NNRs) also feature in this issue. Forvie NNR,
north of Aberdeen, is host to spectacular sand dunes and bird life, and is proled
as part of our ongoing series on NNR walks around Scotland. We also provide
some background to a recent BBC documentary, part of the Natural World
series, on the spectacular wildlife and landscapes of Beinn Eighe NNR in Wester
Ross. The music for the lm was composed by world-renowned Scots musician
Phil Cunningham, providing another example of art inspired by nature.
I hope you enjoy this winter edition of The Nature of Scotland and that it
motivates you to get outdoors. Who knows, you might also be inspired to create
your own artwork while youre out there!
Wild calendar
Kenny Taylor
gives some
seasonal tips
for savouring
Scottish wildlife
and landscapes
www.snh.org.uk
Move on up
When meadow pipits have own to warmer ground, the deer grass is orange-gold
and the uplands seem silent, Scotlands mountains hold a special magic. Theres
a simplicity in their shapes and shadows at this time of year, uncluttered by the
multi-colours of other seasons.
Go to the northwest Highlands, within the Geopark area that stretches from
Loch Broom in the south to Cape Wrath in the north, and you can see some of
the most distinctive mountains in Europe. Suilven, Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mr and a
bevy of others are each utterly unique in outline.
Rising above lochan-studded low ground, each hill here can also help to
reveal the story of how the areas rocks have formed and changed over the last
three billion years. Go to Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve, at the side of
the A835 21km (13 miles) north of Ullapool, to nd out more about the gneiss,
sandstones, faultlines and thrusts that have played a part in the making of this
magnicent landscape.
Web tips:
www.northwest-highlands-geopark.org.uk
www.knockan-crag.co.uk
1
Peatland colours, such
as here at Flanders
Moss, can be a great
contrast to the grey of
a winters sky.
2
Theres an elemental
power to the landscape
of the northwest
mainland, where
eroded sandstone
mountains rise steeply
above curves and
hollows of the low
ground.
3
Choughs are among
the most characterful
of crows, with their red
bills and legs, glossy
plumage and lively
ocks.
4
You may come across
a roe buck and hinds in
the wooded parts of
several Scottish cities,
including Dundee.
2
Get choughed
All crows can be intriguing, thanks to a blend of quick wits
and complex calls. Raven croaks and rook caws are part of
that vocabulary. But its hard to nd words that can catch
the essence of how Scotlands rarest crow, the chough, can
sound.
Best to go to one of its few remaining strongholds, such
as Colonsay or Islay, to hear its shrill cries for yourself. Islay
in winter has the added bonus of being the seasonal home
to huge numbers of migrant geese. Over 30,000 barnacle
geese and 15,000 Greenland white-fronted geese (the
latter very scarce elsewhere) can come here from October
onwards.
Go to the RSPBs Loch Gruinart Reserve, in the
northwest of Islay, to get information at a visitor centre and
then use the hides to overlook elds where geese graze in
the reserves farm. For a chance of choughs, try the dunes
near Ardnave Loch and Point, or go south from Gruinart to
the dunes beside Machir Bay.
Web tips:
www.the-soc.org.uk/islay-sites.htm
www.rspb.org.uk/lochgruinart
Web tips:
www.dundeetravelinfo.com/gcwest.pdf
www.camperdownpark.com/woods.htm
www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/en/our-woods
www.snh.org.uk
Roots of
PoeTree
8
1
Woodland can
generate a creative
spark in many children.
10
A slightly
different view
www.snh.org.uk
11
Inspiring course
12
Abstract style
1
On the Luss Hills,
early March.
2
The Auch Gleann and
Beinn Mhanach,
November.
3
Approaching snow
shower, Scottish
Highlands.
www.snh.org.uk
Dualchas coitcheann
Common heritage
The English names for several
of our common seabirds have
Scandinavian, French and Gaelic
origins, as Ruairidh MacIlleathain
explains
1
Guga eisimpleir de
dhainm ein a ghluais
bhon Ghidhlig don
Bheurla gun
atharrachadh. Ach tha
grunn eun a fhuair an
ainmean Gidhlig bho
chnan nan seann
Lochlannach.
A guga oryoung
gannet.Seabird names
in both Gaelic and
English have been
heavily inuenced by
other languages. In
this case, Gaelic
provided the original.
Ainmean ein-mhara
Seabird names
Tha ainmean cuid de dhein-mhara na h-Alba a sealltainn mar a tha faclan airson
ainmhidhean air a dhol gu tric eadar diofar chnanan. Dhirich slaire bhon
t-Seann Lochlannais sla, slan, agus s ann bhon dearbh ths a thinig an seann
ainm Beurla air an eun sin solan goose. Agus tha e furasta fhaicinn gur e ainm
Lochlannach (Slasker) a bh air Sla Sgeir eilean beag ainmeil anns a chuan
gu tuath air Ledhas an toiseach. Bidh cmhlan de Nisich a falbh a Shla Sgeir
gach samhradh airson gugaichean a thoirt dhachaigh leotha ann an cleachdadh
seann-nsach a tha ceudan bhliadhnaichean a dhaois. Agus tha am facal
Gidhlig guga (airson slaire g nach do dhfhg an nead) air a dhol a-steach
don Bheurla Shasannaich ged nach ann tric a chluinnear moladh air blas feil
an ein ann am Beurla, no cainnt sam bith taobh a-muigh Gidhlig Nis! Dhirich
am facal guga bhon fhuaim a tha na h-ein a danamh nuair a tha iad san nead
gugail no gogail.
Tha am facal Sealtainneach air an fhasgadair mhr bonxie gu math
cumanta ann am Beurla ann an Alba, agus thathar a smaoineachadh gun tinig an
t-ainm coitcheann air son an ein seo (great) skua bho chnan Lochlannach
nan Eilean Frach. S ann bho fhreumhaichean Frangach a dhirich na h-ainmean
Beurla guillemot (gearradh breac ann an Gidhlig) agus cormorant. Ach tha
na faclan airson cormorant ann an Gidhlig agus cuid de dhualchainntean na
Beurla ann an Alba gu math coltach sgarbh agus scarf (uaireannan scart). S
e as coireach gun tinig iad uile bhon t-Seann Lochlannais skarfr. S e fulmair
facal eile a thathar a danamh dheth a thinig bho na Lochlannaich bho ths (a
ciallachadh faoileag air a bheil samh sgriosail!) ach s iongantach mura deach e
a-steach don Bheurla an toiseach (mar fulmar) mus do rinig e a Ghidhlig.
Chan eil anns na h-ainmean Gidhlig shuas ach an fheadhainn as cumanta
no oigeil oir s iomadh ainm a th ann airson gach ein. Mar eisimpleir, cluinnear
eun bn an sgadain agus mac-fraoir airson an t-slaire; thathar a danamh
dheth gu bheil an drna ainm a ciallachadh fear aig a bheil fradharc geur. Agus
chithear caraid nan Gidheal mar ainm air a shon cuideachd. S iongantach
mura robh sin na chomharra air cho cudromach s a bha an t-eun seo do na
coimhearsnachdan Gidhealach anns an iar-thuath a bha gu re an urra ri einmhara airson am bith-be.
14
15
Sea change on
the horizon
www.snh.org.uk
17
18
1
The UKs largest
offshore wind turbines
lie 25 km (15 miles) off
the Caithness coast in
the Moray Firth. The
two turbines are
installed next to the
Beatrice oil eld.
2
The OpenHydro marine
turbine is designed to
work under water. Its
shown here during
maintenance at the
European Marine
Energy Centre test site
in Orkney.
3
A Pelamis wave energy
converter on tow in the
Firth of Forth.
www.snh.org.uk
19
20
4
Bottlenose dolphins
live in the Moray Firth
and are known to be
sensitive to
disturbance.
5
Guillemots and
razorbills are diving
birds that could
potentially be affected
by offshore
renewables.
6
Speaker and delegates
at a recent Sharing
Good Practice event
for the industry.
www.snh.org.uk
21
Seal of approval
Can active sonar help
safeguard seals, porpoises,
dolphins and seabirds near
the tidal turbines that will soon
provide clean, renewable energy
around the Scottish coastline?
1
A seal in Strangford
Lough with an
electronic device
attached so that its
movements can be
tracked.
2
SeaGen is a tidal
energy converter that
is operating in
Strangford Lough in
Northern Ireland.
NEWS
Transfer of marine powers
New powers to protect Scotlands marine life have been given to Scottish
Ministers with the passing of the UK Marine and Coastal Access Act.
The Act means the Scottish Government can designate Marine Protected
Areas (MPAs) in Scottish offshore waters (beyond 12 nautical miles from the
coast).
Scotlands seas are unique to the UK and Europe as they hold a range of
nationally important marine features, including:
the most northerly resident population of bottlenose dolphins;
36% of the worlds population of grey seals;
habitats such as coldwater coral reefs and seamounts;
many commercially important sh; and
minke whales and most of the UKs reported sightings for basking sharks.
There are already protection measures for many of these features through Special
Areas of Conservation. However, new legislation is needed to designate Marine
Protected Areas for other features that are of nature conservation importance,
such as the ameshell, northern sea fan (shown above), common skate and
burrowing anemone.
The Scottish Government are also taking measures to ensure that inshore
waters around Scotland (within 12 nautical miles from the coast) are given
targeted protection. The Marine (Scotland) Bill is going through the Scottish
Parliament at the moment and it includes new powers to designate MPAs in
Scottish inshore waters.
Our waters are home to some of the most spectacular wildlife and marine
habitats across the world, commented Richard Lochhead, cabinet secretary
for rural affairs and the environment. They also make a huge contribution to the
economy through industries such as shing.
The powers that the UK Act delivered to Scotland are an important part
of our new system for managing our seas for current and future generations.
Together with the powers in our own Scottish Marine Bill, they will mean Scotland
can develop a network of MPAs and contribute to international efforts to protect
marine biodiversity.
24
Protection could soon be increased for the golden eagle, a species thats
identied with many of Scotland's wildest and most beautiful places.
Six new special protection areas (SPAs) for the golden eagle are being
proposed in northern and western Scotland, and SNH will begin a three-month
consultation on them in January.
The six areas are: Glen Affric (in the central Highlands) to Strathconon
(in Ross-shire); the Cairngorms massif; Foinaven (at Durness); Moidart and
Ardgour (near Fort William); Glen Etive (near Bridge of Orchy) to Glen Fyne (near
Arrochar); and Jura, Scarba and the Garvellachs (off the west coast).
There are currently eight SPAs for golden eagles in Scotland. These are:
Caenlochan in the Grampians; Cairngorms; Caithness and Sutherland peatlands;
Cnuic agus Cladach Mhuile (Mull coast and hills); Cuillins on Skye; Lewis
peatlands; North Harris mountains; and the Isle of Rum.
You can nd supporting information about the proposals on the SNH website
(www.snh.org.uk), including boundary maps, the rationale for site selection,
information on the golden eagle, and a question and answer document that
addresses some of the queries about the proposed designations.
The Scottish Government have asked SNH to carry out a full and open
consultation on their behalf, explained Susan Davies, SNHs north areas director.
Well shortly be sending out a copy of the consultation pack to land managers
and other interested parties.
Comments will be gathered into a report and full copies of all the submissions
we receive will also be passed to the Scottish Government. The Government will
then be fully briefed on the issues and will decide whether to classify any of the
suggested areas as SPAs.
Announcing the proposals, environment minister Roseanna Cunningham said
that Scotland is an internationally important stronghold for golden eagles. But
their future is nely balanced due to their need for large, undisturbed spaces in
which to live and they remain highly vulnerable to change.
While we have a duty to protect our biodiversity for future generations, this
should not automatically mean that leisure and economic activity cannot take
place in our countryside.
Scotland's wildlife attracts tourists from both home and abroad, eager to
enjoy the scenery and catch a glimpse of species such as the eagle. We must
nd a balance between access, conservation and development to ensure that all
sectors can benet from and enjoy the countryside.
www.snh.org.uk
NEWS
25
NEWS
Stand by for IYB
2010 is International Year of Biodiversity (IYB2010) and hundreds of
organisations and groups across Scotland are joining together to play their part in
this global awareness campaign.
Talks, public dialogues, art work, public science experiments and exhibitions
covering both science and the arts are being planned across the UK between
January and December 2010 under the International Year of Biodiversity banner.
Biodiversity is the term used to describe the variety of life on Earth, and
IYB2010 aims to help people discover the connections between themselves and
the world around them. It will also highlight the huge benets that are shared if we
conserve and use life on Earth in a sustainable way.
People will have a special opportunity during IYB2010 to understand why
biodiversity is important for our health and wealth, to enjoy it and to learn how to
preserve it.
Opportunities will include the chance to take part in surveys of farmland birds,
butteries, hedgehogs and water. There will be bat walks, bird watching, pond
dipping, insect trawling, bird box building and rambling. Towns and cities will be
going head-to-head, competing to map their local biodiversity. And hundreds of
thousands of new plants and trees will be planted.
In Scotland, a launch event will take place in January at the Royal Botanic
Gardens in Edinburgh. And SNH will be organising a week of biodiversity
celebrations in May, with events taking place at rural and urban locations
throughout the country.
Its hoped the partnership of key organisations in the UK and across the
world will encourage people to understand the issues and learn about some of
the success stories that indicate a way forward that can make a difference. If
youd like to get involved, or to nd out about events across the country during
IYB2010, log on to www.biodiversityislife.net
26
NEWS
www.snh.org.uk
27
NEWS
NEWS
29
30
1
The word 'whisky'
comes from the Gaelic
uisge beatha meaning
'water of life'. The
industry depends on a
consistent supply of
good quality water to
make whisky.
2
The familiar steep
roofs and pagoda
heads found on many
Scottish distilleries.
www.snh.org.uk
31
Energy
The act of distilling whisky uses a lot of energy, but it also
produces other items that can be used as fuel. The industry
is investing in new ways to recover energy from these byproducts as an alternative fuel to produce heat and power.
This will signicantly reduce reliance on fossil fuels.
For instance, one of Scotlands best-known whisky
distilleries is introducing a ground-breaking system that
uses oil-producing algae to cut the amount of greenhouse
gases released.
Glenturret Distillery, home of The Famous Grouse, aims
to take the fumes generated from whisky production and
turn them into biodiesel. The algae strip carbon dioxide from
the fumes and convert the gas into oil and protein.
And the Combination of Rothes Distillers which
includes Chivas Brothers, Glen Grant and Ben Riach are
building a new combined heat and power plant that will
use by-products as an energy source. Excess energy will
be sold to the National Grid, with enough to power 9,000
homes.
Meanwhile, the North British Distillery in Edinburgh has
installed a heat exchange system that will use heat currently
released into the atmosphere to heat the nearby Tynecastle
High School. A similar example is Bowmore Distillery on
Islay, which supplies waste heat to the islands leisure
centre.
Water
The whisky industry needs clean water
supplies and aims to achieve similarly
high standards in the water that it
releases back into the environment.
Copper stills are essential to whisky
as they uniquely inuence the spirits
character. However, the copper thats
released in the waste water from
distilleries can be harmful to animals
and plants if the copper is above
certain levels.
The Glenddich distillery in
Dufftown has installed a natural
treatment system to protect the River
Fiddich. The system is planted with
16 native species of wetland plants
and willow trees, which bind copper
onto their roots and prevent its release
into the environment. Deer, ducks,
foxes and red-legged partridges have
all been spotted in the area. Similar
wetlands have been developed at
Benrinnes and Glenallachie distilleries.
32
Casks
Scotch whisky must, by law, be made
in Scotland and matured in oak casks
for at least three years. Casks play a
key role in the maturing process, giving
avour and a golden colour to the
whisky.
The industry has committed to try
to ensure that in future all the casks it
uses will be made of oak sourced from
forests that can be harvested with no
long-term damage to the environment.
Many whiskies obtain their unique
avour from the use of sherry casks,
sourced from the European oak forests
of northern Spain. Whisky producers
are often the rst buyers of these
casks and allow sherry producers to
use them for a period of time before
theyre sent to Scotland.
The Edrington Group, distillers
of brands such as The Macallan and
Highland Park, wanted to ensure the
long-term future of oak sources in
Spain. So they commissioned a study
of the oak forests of Galicia, Asturias
and Cantabria.
Over the ten-year period studied,
the European oak stocks increased by
67%. The trees provide many other
benets, of course, including the rich
range of wildlife they support and their
ability to store away carbon.
Grain
Seventy per cent of all wheat grown in Scotland is used to
produce grain spirit, which is a key ingredient in blended
whiskies.
The industry wants to reduce the nitrogen content of
wheat, as this will increase the amount of alcohol that the
grain produces whilst also being good for the environment.
However, producers need to achieve this without a drop in
the tonnage of wheat that comes off the land.
Plant scientists have therefore bred a type of grain that
will take in 30% less nitrogen. This will mean that the farmer
is able to apply 50% less fertiliser, resulting in less pollution
of the environment.
www.snh.org.uk
33
31
Wednesday 27
February
Sharing Good
Practice (SGP):
Social marketing
Scotlands outdoors
beyond the usual
suspects
Battleby, Perth
34
March
Wednesday 3
Thursday 25
Thursday 4
Area Evening
Receptions
Lairg, Sutherland
Harris, Western Isles
www.snh.org.uk
35
Forvie Trail
Forvie lies 23 km (15 miles) north of Aberdeen on the A975 Aberdeen to Peterhead
road. You can walk to the reserve from Newburgh, where there are toilets and where
buses stop generally every hour. This walk begins at the large car park signposted for
the reserve at Waterside on the north side of the River Ythan (sounds like eye-than)
road bridge.
The 5 km/3 mile route is marked by blue arrows and follows a rough track along the
side of the estuary and then into spectacular, towering dunes. Emerging onto the
beach, the route continues to the site of the cursed village of Forvie, said to have
been covered by a sandstorm in the 15th century. Returning by track over heather
moorland, the walk is not too steep but involves walking on rough ground and sand.
Reserve boundary
Dunes
Moorland
Collieston
Estuary trail
Information centre
Stevenson
Forvie
Centre
Information board
Parking
North
Sea
Sand
Loch
Toilets
Bird hide
0
Cotehill
Loch
Old
kir
k
Forvie Moor
Rockend
75
A9
n
ur
Bu
rn o
f Sandend
8
5
9
3
Riv
er
Forvie Bur
n
n
ha
Yt
Greenhill
Waterside
Bridge of
Forvie
Sleek of Tarty
a
Yth
Est
uary
Fov
Udny Links
Golf Course
A97
era
n L
ink
s
Newburgh
er
Fov
To
Aberdeen
Bu
rty
Ta
an Bur
Meikle
Tarty
Logie Buchan
Bridge
Waterside
Bridge
Inch Geck
To
Ellon
1
kilometres
Forvie
Kirk
(remains)
To
Cruden
Bay
B9000
003
B9
Hackley
Bay
rn
www.snh.org.uk
37
1
Forvie features one of
the largest areas of
blown sand in
Scotland. The dunes
have been built from
sand carried onshore
by the sea and wind.
2
Its easy to identify
curlews with their long
down-curved bills,
which are used to
probe for worms and
shellsh.
1
Begin at Waterside car park and follow
the track through the gate towards the
trees. Just below the car park is an area
of saltmarsh where lapwing and small
wading birds often take shelter from
the winter weather. Emerging from the
trees, look for redshank, oystercatcher
and curlew down on the mudats at low
tide. Carry on straight ahead, with the
estuary on your right.
38
2
Looking across to Newburgh, you can
see the quayside that once made this
a busier port than Aberdeen. However,
the shifting sands had to be frequently
dredged to allow safe passage for the
ships bringing in coal and exporting
grain. The University of Aberdeen have
their ocean research facility located just
behind the quay, where the waters of
the Ythan are now being used to study
the role of the sea in climate change.
3
Follow the foreshore at this point for
another 500 m/0.3 mile and look out
for long-tailed duck on the water, as
well as Forvies signature bird, the eider
duck. Males are black and white, and
the females are brown, camouaged
for nesting in the heather at the side
of the estuary. In spring, there can be
up to 5,000 birds here, but the winter
population drops to a few hundred. The
eiders dive in the river channel to nd
mussels, their favourite food, which they
swallow whole.
The Nature of Scotland
4
Stopping at the start of the large dunes
on your left, a deep pile of mussel shells
has been exposed in the slope. This is
a midden Bronze Age at its earliest
and shows how important the estuary
has been to people over the reserves
history. Through medieval times,
people harvested mussels intensively
to provide bait for haddock line shing.
When mussel harvesting ended in the
1960s, the numbers of eider duck on
the Ythan soared and it became the
UKs largest breeding population.
5
Clamber back up to the path and turn
right to follow the grass-covered route
up a slope to some stone steps at the
top. Enjoy the view over the estuary
and then carry on into the heart of the
dunes. From the late 18th century,
smugglers hid their illegal goods here
by digging pits, which they lined with
sail cloth. You never know what the
shifting sands might reveal next! Look
out for snow buntings searching for
marram grass seeds. These striking
small birds migrate to Forvie from their
arctic summer breeding grounds.
6
Wander through the dunes, which
were once visited by T. E. Lawrence
(of Arabia fame) and imagine yourself
in warmer climes! Once on the beach,
turn left to follow the coast to the
rocky shore at the north end. A salmon
weather vane and a small burn mark the
track off the beach. The weather vane
was made by the salmon shers who
used to net the beach at Forvie until the
tradition ended in 2000.
3
The Ythan Estuary
attracts tens of
thousands of birds
every winter to roost
and feed, like these
lapwings and swans.
www.snh.org.uk
39
4
You may see a
short-eared owl
hunting over the moor
for small mammals,
especially voles.
5
A winter walk on a frost
covered beach.
6
Marram grass inwinter
light with frost still on
the ground.
Essential information
Forvie NNR lies 25 km/15 miles north of Aberdeen.
Stagecoach bus service 263, Aberdeen to Peterhead via
Cruden Bay, stops at Newburgh.
OS maps
Landranger 38 (Aberdeen)
Explorer 421 (Ellon & Inverurie)
Trail length
5 km/3 miles from Waterside car park.
Terrain
www.snh.org.uk
41
Natures business
42
Ae triumph
Geese gathering
www.snh.org.uk
43
Helping hands
Gravel matters
44
Better homes
www.snh.org.uk
45
1
The new visitor guide
provides you with
essential information
on all of Scotland's
national nature
reserves.
2
Ben Lawers in
Perthshire is a national
nature reserve that
offers breathtaking
high-level walks in
winter.
46
Print out
2010 calendar
Our calendar for 2010 focuses on
biodiversity, in celebration of the
International Year of Biodiversity.
The calendar features stunning images
from noted natural history photographers,
along with a lively text that explores
biodiversity issues and reveals a range of
benets that biodiversity delivers.
The publication is available in two
formats as a large wall calendar at 6 or
a small desk-top calendar at 3.
You can order copies of SNH publications via the SNH website. You can also buy our publications in person from the shop
in the reception area of our SNH Battleby ofce or tel: 01738 444 177. The vast bulk of SNH publications are free, but the
Naturally Scottish and Landscape Fashioned by Geology series do carry a cover price. Hard copies of our research and
report series, as well as the annual calendar, are also priced items.
www.snh.org.uk
47
Wildwood plan
for Carrifran
This may look like a natural landscape
but its not. These hills would once have
been covered with a rich tapestry of native
woodland. So, for the past 15 years, a
dedicated group of volunteers has been
trying to turn the clock back
48
www.snh.org.uk
49
1
The bare hills of
Carrifran
photographed in 1997.
2
Lonely rowan beside
the Carrifran Burn. It
now has some half a
million trees for
company!
3
The hills around
Carrifran lost their
woodland cover over
many centuries.
3
The Lowlands of
Scotland had once
undoubtedly an equal
portion of woods with
others countries But I
believe few regions have
been denuded like this,
where many centuries
must have passed in
waste without the least
thought of future supply.
www.snh.org.uk
51
Planting begins
On Millennium Day, 1 January 2000, about 100 volunteers celebrated the
purchase of Carrifran by planting the rst trees. A complete plan for restoring the
site had already been developed, and funding and advice from SNH allowed the
steering group to appoint a project ofcer to take forward the work.
Since then, more than 450,000 native trees and shrubs have gone into the
ground. About 10% of the trees have been planted by volunteers, who have
contributed their time and enthusiasm to not only plant trees, but also bash
bracken, repair paths, remove unnecessary fences and generally clear up.
The rest of the tree planting has been down to contractors who come back
to work at Carrifran year after year, and are therefore a vital part of the Wildwood
project. Both contractors and volunteers are prepared to work high up in the hills
through the winter, probably meeting tougher conditions than just about any other
tree planters in Britain.
Decisions about which trees to plant can be made with condence because
the Wildwood Group have identied the tree species that grew in the original
wildwood at Carrifran. They have a complete pollen record taken from a peat
bog on the site and theyre familiar with the conditions that each species prefers.
Moreover, they gathered and grew thousands of seeds and cuttings from the
Southern Uplands, so they knew the trees being used were adapted to the local
climate.
4
52
Visitors to Carrifran and those who drive past now can readily see the
developing woodland near the mouth of the glen, where some trees are about
ve metres (16 feet) high. It takes more careful searching to spot the hundreds of
thousands of trees and shrubs spread over the more remote parts of the site.
We set up the Wildwood project to show that, in a world weighed down with
environmental problems, we dont have to just sit back and wring our hands,
added Philip. We can take action and do something positive.
This project proves that people have the power to reverse environmental
harm, and we hope it will inspire others to come up with even bolder schemes to
restore areas that have been degraded down the centuries.
4
Carefully choosing a
planting spot to
provide some
protection for a
young tree.
5
Woodland spreading
up the glen in May
2009.
New project
Given that over 95% of native woodlands have been lost in the south of Scotland,
BFT have also been looking for other opportunities to support the publics
enthusiasm for restoring woodlands.
And theyve just announced that 700,000 has been raised to buy 640
hectares (1,580 acres) of land at Corehead, north of Moffat, which lies just over
the hills from Carrifran. The hills and valleys of Corehead were historically part of
the wild Ettrick Forest, and BFT plan to restore the heather moorland and native
woodland that once thrived there.
The famous Devils Beef Tub also forms part of Corehead. This is one of the
most iconic landmarks in the south of Scotland, taking the form of a cavernous
hollow in the hills where the notorious Border Reivers once hid their stolen cattle.
Corehead extends to within three kilometres (1.8 miles) from Carrifran, offering
the possibility of making a connection. The surrounding hills form the watershed
between the Tweed and Annan river systems, so theres potential to create links
across the hills and rivers.
If youd like to read more about Carrifran, then why not buy a copy of the
recently published book The Carrifran Wildwood Story: ecological restoration
from the grass roots, which was also supported by SNH. All the money raised
through sales goes to support the project. To nd out more about the book, you
can download a preview and print off an order form at www.carrifran.org.uk or
buy online at www.bordersforesttrust.org
www.snh.org.uk
53
Kids only!
What is snow?
When water freezes inside
clouds, ice crystals form. Ice
crystals are crystals that have
formed around tiny bits of dirt
that have been carried up into
the atmosphere by the wind.
The ice crystals then join
together to create snowakes,
and once the akes are heavy
enough they fall to the ground
as snow.
There are lots of fun activities to do in this issue, but rst youll need
to collect some bits and bobs from outdoors. So why not all wrap up
warm, get outside and enjoy the fresh air on a nice family walk. Collect
interesting items and take photos, and when you get home, you can
draw a picture, start a nature scrapbook or make a collage.
Have fun with the activities...
You will need: lard, birdseeds, raw peanuts, raisins, cheese (grated),
yoghurt pots or pine cones and strong string.
In a bowl, put three heaped tablespoons of lard and then put in a warm
place until the lard goes soft.
When soft, add a tablespoon of each of the following: birdseed, raw
peanuts, raisins and grated cheese. Mix them into the lard and then squeeze
the mixture into a lump.
Thread a string through the bottom of an empty yoghurt pot and tie a big
knot inside. Push the cake mixture in and then chill in the fridge until it turns
hard. (You can also push the cake mixture into the gaps of a pine cone
and hang this from a tree!)
Hang the pot upside down from a tree in the garden.
You will need: freezer-proof container, cooled boiled water, natural item and a loop of string.
1. Collect natural items from outside that you think will look great in your ice sculpture such as
pine cones, leaves, stones, feathers or owers.
2. Place them into your freezer-proof container, which can be any shape or size you want.
3. Add cooled boiled water (with adult help), and make sure your item is fully submerged.
4. Place a loop of string at the top of your container, making sure only the ends are in the water
as this will be used to hang your ice sculpture. Now pop in the freezer overnight.
5. Remove from freezer and push the sculpture out of the container.
6. Hang from a tree in the garden, where it can twinkle in the sunlight. ENJOY!
Knock! Knock!
Whos there?
Eskimo!
Eskimo who?
Eskimo questions hell tell
you no lies!
What you need: string, wide-mouth pint jar, white pipe cleaners,
blue food colouring, boiling water (with adult help), Borax laundry
detergent, pencil.
Cut a white pipe cleaner into three equal sections. Twist the sections
together in the centre so that you have a six-sided star shape.
This forms a snowake base for the crystals to grow on.
Trim the pipe cleaner sections to the same length.
Fill a wide-mouth jar with boiling water. Mix Borax into the water one
tablespoon at a time. Use three tablespoons of Borax per cup of
water. Stir until dissolved (dont worry if there is powder settling on the
bottom of the jar). Add a little blue food colouring now to
give the snowake a blueish tint.
Submerge your pipe cleaner snowake into the Borax solution with
the pencil resting across the top of the jar.
Leave overnight and by morning your snowake will be
covered in beautiful shiny crystals.
www.snh.org.uk5
10
55
56
www.snh.org.uk
57
1
Scots pines growing by
the Allt a Chuirn gorge.
Behind is snowcapped Creag Dhubh
at the eastern end of
the Beinn Eighe ridge.
2
White-tailed sea eagle
chick with down still
crowning its head.
3
The islands in the
widest part of Loch
Maree provide an
undisturbed haven for
many kinds of wildlife.
4
Black-throated diver
on Loch Maree. These
elegant birds breed on
the loch's islands in
summer.
58
Fond memories
www.snh.org.uk
59
60
Sounds natural
The soundtrack for the Natural World documentary
was composed by renowned Scots musician Phil
Cunningham (pictured right). Our area ofcer at
Beinn Eighe, Kenny Nelson, caught up with Phil for
a chat about the project.
Youre a prolic performer, composer and producer of music,
but was this your rst foray into nature documentary work?
Yes, its my rst big nature documentary, although its
something Id wanted to do for such a long time. Id
done some landscape work, but nothing that involved
animals. So this was not only a big challenge but a wee
dream come true.
Are there certain instruments you tend to prefer for
composing?
I use keyboards in the main, just to get the textures
and colours. I have to spend a lot of time talking to the
director too. Im a real tunes man I like big melodies.
But Fergus wanted undertones and moods, so once we
were clear about that, then I could release the melodies
from my mind. However, as the project developed,
inevitably all those melodies came creeping in, and
every different animal ended up with its own tune!
The programme paints a broad picture of landscape and
wildlife. But it also focuses on some of the characters too,
like sea eagles, divers, dragonies and even midges! Were
there any species that stood out for you?
I have to say I fell in love with the divers and their
plight. They had their own little theme, and every time I
saw them this tune would pop into my head. The most
difcult ones to do were the midges and dragonies,
because they were so random. I wish somebody would
teach those guys how to dance! It was really about
stepping away from melody with them and trying to
create a really irritating sound as irritating as they can
be!
Your music has taken you all over the world, and you spend a Youve obviously really enjoyed this project. Do you foresee
lot of time in America. But does Scotland and its landscapes yourself doing any more nature documentary work?
still inspire you?
I would love to be able to do more. It was always a big
Absolutely. Theres nowhere like here in my mind; its the ambition of mine to be able to combine what I do for a
most wonderful country in the world. Its very, very varied living with wildlife, the second love of my life. Ive really
struck it lucky in this instance because a big door has
you can drive 10 miles down the road and youre in
opened through working with the BBC Natural History
a totally different landscape. I just think Scotland has
Unit. Fergus liked what I did and hes talking about
everything to offer for landscape, wildlife, ruggedness
doing something together again in the future, so ngers
and drama. Its the complete package in terms of
inspirational material. I lived on the Isle of Skye for years crossed that its the start of something that might
continue.
and you could be inspired in 10 different ways in a day,
just by sitting in the same spot, because the light is so
changeable.
www.snh.org.uk
61
Emergency exit
Wildlife lm-maker Fergus Beeley wrote a diary for
the BBC news website of his experiences at Beinn
Eighe. Heres his rst entry, recalling the alarming
start to the project
2021 February 2008: A life-threatening start
The helicopter crawled up the edge of the mountain, hugging the barely visible
ground through the mist and cloud.
At about 700 metres (2,296 ft), the visibility improved and the snow-capped
peaks of Beinn Eighe came into view. The camera was running. This was day one
of lming for a wildlife documentary in the northwest highlands of Scotland and
the images today were stunning.
This was a good start. For the next week, our aim was to camp on the top of
this mountain to lm ptarmigan and mountain hare. Our location safety advisor,
Jim McNeill, came into vision in the round, deep corrie just below the triple
buttresses of the mountain known as Ruadh Stac Mr. His earlier reconnaissance
had identied this as a more sheltered position than the actual summit.
With strong winds soon to be coming in from the southwest, this was our
plan B. And it probably saved our lives for no-one had expected that we would
soon be ghting to remain on the ground in an extraordinary gale that reached
storm force 11.
It came on us as night fell, as if an angry dinosaur shared the corrie with us. It
rst swiped its claws at our tents. These strikes were sudden odd gusts of wind
that reached 160 km/h (100 mph), smashing the roofs of our tents down heavily
onto our faces.
These hits were followed by an eerie, empty silence, lasting sometimes 20
long seconds. By midnight, the dinosaur was furious. Jim and I, sharing the same
tent, could only remain absolutely at as the gale crushed the now broken tent
down onto our bodies, making even breathing difcult.
Cameraman Ian McCarthy was struggling to remain in the last standing tent,
as it shifted with him across the ground. Though he was also safely anchored to
our own rope-to-boulder lashings, if anything were to go now, our tents would be
lifted straight off the ground and away with the dark, the snow, the mouth of the
storm.
Jim, on all fours, checked the lashings and was lifted off the ground. It
was difcult to crawl and impossible to stand; but trained and experienced in
conditions such as these from his solo expeditions on the Arctic ice, Jim was calm
and clear in his commands.
It was difcult to
crawl and impossible
to stand...
Escape plan
We could not ride out this storm now without some signicant danger of
hypothermia setting into us. Clearly, Ians tent, the last, had only a short life now.
We had to descend off the mountain if the storm wasnt going to let up soon.
I could just make out Jim shouting down the satellite phone through the din of
the whipping and apping. It was 0900, and our procedural call back to base was
in progress. Eoghain Maclean, the Beinn Eighe reserve manager and Kinlochewe
Mountain Rescue Team member, agreed that an immediate descent was advised.
Our exit plan and route were agreed.
On all fours, clinging to the rocks, we gathered and lashed together the widely
strewn lm cases. With the visibility down to just a few metres, and the blizzard
making standing impossible, we started our descent.
62
5
Branching out Scots
pine in Gleann
Bianasdail by Loch
Maree.
6
Ice-covered river
owing out of Coire
Mhic Fhearchair on
Beinn Eighe.
www.snh.org.uk
63
Winter 2009
All at sea
Wave and
tidal power
Unique vision
Artist with a
different view
Beinn on TV
Highland haven
for wildlife
17/12/2009 21:36
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