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Best of

8
projects by
Designer of the Year
Jean Campbell

About the Designer


Jean Campbell designs, teaches, and writes about beadwork. She is the
senior editor of Beadwork magazine and has written and edited more than
45 books, most recently including Steampunk Style Jewelry and Creating
Glamorous Jewelry with Swarovski Elements.
Jean regularly contributes to BeadingDaily.com and is a Crystallized Elements
Ambassador for the Swarovski Company. She has appeared on the DIY
Jewelry Making show, The Shay Pendray Show, and PBSs Beads, Baubles,
and Jewels where she gives how-to instructions, provides inspiration, and
lends crafting advice. Jean teaches off-loom beading throughout the United
States. She lives in Minneapolis, Minnesota with her family and a whole lot
of beads. Visit Jeans website at www.jeancampbellink.com.

1 Mod Metal and Crystal Pendant


2 Garden Gate
3 Ancient Earrings
4 Glamour Girl Necklace
5 Sassy Sisters Bracelet
6 Serenity Earrings
7 Sjournee Flower
8 Golden Oak
Techniques

PAGE 1
PAGE 2
PAGE 4
PAGE 6
PAGE 9
PAGE 12
PAGE 14
PAGE 17

PAGE 21

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.


2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page ii

project
Ive been seeing so many of these
1970esque pendants around, I thought
I could make my own. Ive created
a silver chain to attach to my pendant,
but you can also use ribbon, leather,
or prefabricated chain.

1) Cut 1 head pin to 2", 2 to 2", 2 to 2",


2 to 1", 2 to 2" 2 to 1", and 2 to 1".
2) String 1 crystal on each head pin.
3) Use the round-nose pliers to make
a loop on each head pin. Set aside.

mod metal
and crystal
pendant

4) Use the round-nose pliers to make


a triple loop on one end of the 18-gauge
wire.
5) String 2 crimp tubes, the 1" head pin,
1 crimp tube, the 1" head pin, 1 crimp
tube, etc., until you get to the longest
head pin. Continue stringing in longest
to shortest order.
6) Use the round-nose pliers to make
a triple loop at the other end of the
18-gauge wire to secure all items just
strung. Trim any excess wire. !

MATERIALS
13 violet 4mm crystal bicones
13 silver 3" head pins
3" silver 18-gauge wire
16 silver 2mm crimp tubes

TOOLS
Round-nose pliers
Wire cutters

FINISHED SIZE: 7 1 2 "


TECHNIQUE

RESOURCES

:: wireworking

Check your local bead shop or contact:


Similar materials: Fire Mountain Gems

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

and Beads, (800) 355-2137,


www.firemountaingems.com.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 1

project

A cuff-like
bracelet
thats not only
pure joy
to make, but
to wear!

garden gate

TECHNIQUES
:: peyote stitch
:: fringe

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 2

If youve got beads like Ive


got beads, you might as well
flaunt them. And this bracelet
flaunts them! First come up
with a range of colorsI went
with a late summer/early fall
palette. Look at landscapes
in nature photography if you
need help with color. Then,
using the palette youve chosen,
pick beads with a garden
theme: various leaves, vines,
flowers, etc. The main thing
is to think lush variegation.

MATERIALS
Size 6 multicolored seed beads
Size 11 seed beads in a single color
Assortment of leaf, flower,
and other beads
16 round 6mm beads
Size B beading thread in color
to complement beads
Clasp

TOOLS

LADDER BASE
1) Using 1 yard of thread and size 11
seed beads, make a piece of flat
peyote-stitched fabric 8 beads wide
by 14 beads tall.
2) Roll the peyote-stitched rectangle
into a tube width-wise so that the
beads last worked interlock with the
beads from the first row. Sew the beads
together like a zipper.
3) Repeat Steps 1 and 2 seven times
so that you have 8 peyote tubes.
4) Anchor 1 yard of thread in one of
the second-from-the-end beads of a
peyote tube. *String 13 size 6 beads.
String another peyote tube in the same
place you exited the last one. Pass
right through the tube, exiting at the
opposite side. Repeat from * to string
all the tubes.
Note: If you would like to lengthen or
shorten the bracelet, add or subtract
the number of size 6s between rungs.
5) Weave your thread up two beads
on the last peyote tube.*String 13 size
6s. Pass through the next tube, exiting
at the opposite side. Repeat from * to
connect all the tubes.

Continue repeating this step until


you have 4 rungs of size 6 beads
connecting all 8 tubes (Fig. 1).

Size 12 beading needle


Scissors
Size 13 and 15 English
beading needles

EMBELLISHING
6) Anchor 1 yard of thread at the
beginning of the top rung. Pass through
the first size 6 and string a short combination of beads to create a fringe. You
could choose 1 size 11, 1 leaf or flower
bead, 1 size 11, and then pass back
through the leaf bead and first size 11;
or 3 size 11 in one color, 3 in another
color, and pass back through the first
3 size 11s. The combinations are endlessjust keep the fringe short. Continue across the rung, passing through
each size 6 and making a short fringe,
until all four rungs are filled with fringe.
7) Anchor 1 yard of thread at the end
of one of the end tubes. Exit toward the
hole in the tube and out the end. String
one 6mm and 1 size 11. Pass back
through the 6mm and down the hole,
through the length of the tube. Exit
from the other end of the tube. String
one 6mm and 1 size 11. Pass back
through the 6mm and down the hole.
Pass back into the 6mm and size 11
on the other end of the tube. Continue
going back and forth as many times as
possible to strengthen. Weave through
one of the rungs to get to the next tube.
Repeat this step until all the tubes
have 6mm beads added to their ends.
8) Sew on the clasp to the first
and last rungs. !
RESOURCES
Check your local bead shop or contact:

FINISHED SIZE: 15"

Similar materials: Fire Mountain


Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137,
www.firemountaingems.com.

Fig. 1: Connecting
the tubes

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.


2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 3

project

TECHNIQUES
:: wireworking
:: stringing

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

ancient earrings

The Etruscans owed much of their power and wealth


to their skill in ironworking. The coils in ancient
Etruscan metalwork inspired the shapes in these
earrings. The Etruscan coils make for a challenging
first project for those just venturing out with wire.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 4

project

4"

ancient earrings

Fig. 1: Forming the spirals

1) Fold a 10" length of wire in half. Work


each end into a spiral until the middle
bend hangs down " from the spirals
(Fig.1). Fold the middle bend up on itself
so that its even with the other side of
the spirals (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Folding up the center

MATERIALS
14 sterling silver 3x5mm tubes
26 round 3mm turquoise beads
2 flat oval 16x20mm turquoise
beads
10 sterling silver 4mm jump rings
8 sterling silver 1" head pins
2 sterling silver 3" head pins
2 sterling silver ear hoops with
5 connector loops
20" of 20-gauge silver wire

2) String 1 round, 1 silver tube, and 1 round


on a 1" head pin and create a wrapped loop
to secure the beads. Repeat this step to
make 3 more dangles.
3) Use jump rings to connect the dangles
to all but the middle loop of a hoop.
4) Use the round-nose pliers to bend the
end of a 3" head pin. Open the loop, add
the spiral, and close the loop.
5) String 1 round, 1 silver tube, 1 round,
1 flat oval, 1 round, 1 silver tube, 1 round,
1 silver tube, and 1 round. Secure the head
pin with a wrapped loop. Use a jump ring
to connect this dangle to the center loop
of the hoop (Fig. 3).
6) Repeat all steps for the other earring. !

TOOLS
Round-nose pliers
Flat-nose pliers
Wire cutters

ARTISTS TIP

FINISHED SIZE: 3"

RESOURCES
Check your local bead shop or contact:
Silver tubes: Singaraja Imports,
(800) 865-8856.

Making exact duplicates of


the spirals for each earring
takes practice. Just keep
trying until you have two that
look more or less the same
sterling silver wire has
enough give to tolerate
multiple readjustments.

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.


2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 5

Fig. 3: Assembling
the earring

project

This princess necklace


project not only gives you
a chance to stitch beads
together to make a beaded
bead, you get to string
them, too. Brilliant!

glamour girl necklace


TECHNIQUES
:: right-angle weave
:: stringing
:: crimping

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 6

BEADED BEAD
1) Use 3' of thread to string 1 rose,
1 vitrial, 1 rose, and 1 vitrial. Pass
through all the beads again to make
a square and exit from the first rose
strung. Note: Use tight tension
throughout.
2) String 1 vitrial, 1 rose, and 1 vitrial.
Pass down through the rose you just
exited, through the first vitrial just
strung, and up through the rose
just strung.
3) String 1 vitrial, 1 rose, and 1 vitrial.
Pass up through the rose you just
exited, through the first vitrial just
strung, and down through the rose.
4) String 1 vitrial. Pass up through
the first rose strung in Step 1. String
1 vitrial and pass down through the last
rose strung in Step 3 and through the
first vitrial just strung (Fig. 1).
5) Work another round of right-angle
weave off the round you made in
Steps 14. Begin by stringing 1 vitrial,

one 6mm amethyst, and 1 vitrial;


pass through the last vitrial strung in
Step 4 and the first vitrial just strung.
Continue around, stringing 1 vitrial and
one 6mm amethyst in each stitch. Connect the ends of the round as in Step 4
and exit from a 6mm amethyst (Fig. 2).
6) Work a third round using all vitrial
bicones (Fig. 3). Exit from the second
vitrial strung in this step and pass
through the 4 outermost vitrial to
secure the bottom of the beaded
bead (Fig. 4).
7) Weave through all the beads in
Steps 16 again until the bead holes
are full and the beaded bead is rock
hard. Trim the thread. Use the marker
to color any unsightly thread. Set the
beaded bead aside.

20 vitrial, the top hole of a spacer, 6 vitrial,


the top hole of a second spacer, 6 vitrial,
and the top hole of a third spacer.
Separate the two wires and use one of
these wires to string 9 vitrial, one 8mm
amethyst, and 9 vitrial. Use the other
wire to string 11 vitrial, one 8mm
amethyst, and 11 vitrial.
Use both wires to string the top hole
of a fourth spacer, 6 vitrial, the top hole
of a fifth spacer, 6 vitrial, the top hole of
a sixth spacer, and 20 vitrial. Use a bead
stop to secure the wire ends.
Pair two additional wires and clip them
together at one end using a bead stop.
Use both wires to string 20 vitrial and the
bottom hole of the first spacer strung in
Step 2. String 6 vitrial, the second spacer,
6 vitrial, and the third spacer.

STRINGING
8): Cut five 16" lengths of beading wire.
9): Pair two of the wires and join them
together at one end using a bead stop.
Use both wires together to string

Separate the two wires and use one


of these wires to string 13 vitrial, one
8mm amethyst, and 13 vitrial. Pair this
wire with the fifth length of wire cut
in Step 1. Pass both wires through the
second hole of the fourth spacer, string

MATERIALS
251 vitrial 4mm crystal bicones
4 amethyst 6mm crystal rounds
4 amethyst 8mm crystal rounds
5 rose AB2X 7mm crystal bicones
6 rose 10mm 2-hole spacers
Sterling silver 2-strand box clasp with
amethyst inset
5 sterling silver 2mm crimp tubes
80" of .014 beading wire
Moss green beading thread

Fig. 1: Connecting the bicones


with right-angle weave

Fig. 2: Adding crystal rounds

TOOLS
Scissors
Big Eye needle
Wire cutters
Crimping pliers
Pink or purple permanent marker
Bead stop

FINISHED SIZE: 18"

Fig. 4:
Securing the
bottom of the
beaded bead

Fig. 3: Working a third round

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2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 7

6 vitrial, the fifth spacer, 6 vitrial,


the sixth spacer, and 20 vitrial
(Fig. 5). Use a bead stop to secure
the wire ends.
10) There should now be two loose
wires hanging from opposite spacers at the bottom of the necklace.
String 18 vitrial on each. Use both
wires to string one 8mm amethyst,
the beaded bead, 1 rose, 1 vitrial,
and 1 crimp tube. Snug the beads,
crimp the tube, and trim.

11): Hold the piece against your


neck to check for length, adding
1" to account for the width of the
clasp, then add or subtract vitrial
bicones at each end to adjust.
String 1 crimp tube on each set
of paired wires (youll be stringing
4 crimp tubes for the 8 wires).
Pass through the clasp loops
and back through the tubes,
crimp, and trim. !

RESOURCES
Check your local bead shop for any of these materials or contact: Clasp:
Stars Clasps, (800) 207-2805, www.starsclasps.com. Spacers and
PowerPro beading thread: The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032,
www.thebeadmonkey.com.

wire 1

wire 2
wire 4

wire 3
wire 5

Fig. 5: Assembling the necklace

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2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 8

project

This bracelet celebrates the trio of women


in my family. Because the photographs are
so subtle, they will probably just look
like small, organic patterns from far
away, but I know I'm surrounded
by the women who love me when
I wear it.

sassy sisters
bracelet

TECHNIQUES
:: peyote stitch
:: ladder stitch
:: brick stitch

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 9

1) PHOTOGRAPHS. Choose one of the


buttons or charms on which youd like to
add a photograph and place it facedown
on the photograph; trace around it with
a pencil. Trim the photograph on the
pencil marks. Repeat for all the buttons/
charms and photographs. Use the thread
burner (or lighter) to carefully singe the
edges of the photographs to soften the
scissors line. Set aside.
2) CENTER SQUARE. Use 3' of thread
to string 6B and pass down through a
hole at one of the corners of the square.
String 5B and, leaving a 3" tail, tie a
square knot with the working and tail
threads. Pass through all 11B again.
String 1 wooden bead and 6B; pass down
through the hole on the square right
next to the one you last worked (Fig. 1).
String 5B and pass through the 6B and
the 5B just strung to form a loop. Pull
snug and pass through the wooden
bead (Fig. 2).
3) BASE. Work odd-count peyote stitch
off the wooden bead:
Rows 13: String 3C; pass through the
wooden bead and the 3C again. String
1C and pass back through the second
and first beads. String 1C and pass
through the second, third, and fourth
beads so that you exit toward the
center of the beadwork (Fig. 3).

Rows 46: Work odd-count flat peyote

MATERIALS

stitch, 3 beads across.


Rows 710: Work 2C in the middle stitch.
Rows 1114: Continue working 3 beads

across.
Row 15: String 1 wooden bead and pass

through the last two peyote-stitch


rows worked; pass through the beads
again to reinforce. There will be
exposed thread on either side of the
wooden bead, which will be covered
when you work the edging (Fig. 4).
4) Repeat Step 3 twice, then work
Rows 14 after the last wooden bead.
5) TOGGLE. Exit from the center
of the last row and use plum seed beads
to work a row of ladder stitch 2 beads
high and 6 beads long. String the 19mm
button and pass through the last ladder
stitch. Pass through the button and
ladder at least twice more. Continue
passing through the ladder-stitched
beads to firmly reinforce it.
6) EDGING. Anchor a new thread at
the base of the ladder. String 2A and
pass through 1C and the 2A again to exit
at the edge of the bracelet. String 2A;
pass under the first loop of thread and
back through the second bead. String
1A, pass under the next loop and back
through the bead just strung. Continue
this edging of brick stitch down one

5 g plum size 11 Japanese


seed beads (A)
5 g matte gunmetal size 11
Japanese seed beads (B)
5 g blue/purple gunmetal size 8
triangle beads (C)
8 red 5mm wooden rounds
7 ivory 6mm freshwater pearls
1 tagua nut 26mm perforated square
1 mother-of-pearl 19mm 2-hole button
Assorted 1015mm buttons
Assorted charms, found objects,
and other sentimental items
Photographs printed to fit on buttons
6 lb braided beading thread
White glue
Mod Podge or other clear-coat sealer

TOOLS
Beading needle
Pencil
Scissors
Thread burner (or a lighter)

FINISHED SIZE: 7"

side of the base. When you come to the


wooden beads, work the brick stitches
off the exposed threads. Once you reach
the square, pass through beads to work
the other side of the base toward the
button (Fig. 5).

Fig. 3: Adding
Rows 13

Fig. 1: Adding

Fig. 5: Adding
the edging

Fig. 2: Finishing the


wood-bead connection

Fig. 4: Working Row 15

the wood bead

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2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 10

7) SECOND BASE. Repeat Steps 26


to make the other half of the base off
the opposite corner of the square.
8) LOOP. Exit the center of the last
row and use plum seed beads to work
a row of ladder stitch 2 beads high and
8 beads long. Fold the ladder in half
and stitch the end of it to the last triangle you exited. Weave through the
beads several times to create a tight
cord, then stitch triangle beads to the
sides to cover the thread (Fig. 6).
9) Exiting from the folded end of the
ladder cord, string 30A (or enough
to accommodate the button) and pass
through the end of the ladder again
to form a loop. Exit from the next
pair of beads in the ladder and string
another 30A to form a second loop.
Pass through beads of both loops to
peyote-stitch them securely together

Fig. 6: Forming
the base of the loop

Fig. 8: Adding embellishments

Fig. 7: Creating the loop

(Fig. 7).

10) EMBELLISHMENTS. Secure a


new thread before the last wood bead
at one end of the base. Use seed-bead
loops to attach buttons, found objects,
and charms (Fig. 8). Make short fringe
with the pearls by stringing 1 seed
bead, 1 pearl, and 13 seed or triangle
beads, and passing back through the
pearl and first seed bead and into the
base. (Place a pearl under any object
that is not lying the way youd like, to
help prop it up.) Work all the way up

to the square, adding as many embellishments as you desire, then repeat for the
other half of the base.
Anchor a thread to the center
of the perforated square and make
an embellishment there as desired.
11) FINISHING. Examine the entire
bracelet and carefully melt away any
thread ends, then glue the photographs
to the buttons and allow to dry thoroughly
before applying a coat of sealer. !

RESOURCES
Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads:
The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032 or (651) 222-7729,
www.beadmonkey.com. Tagua nut square: On The
Surface, info@onsurface.com, www.onsurface.com.

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.


2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 11

detail

project

Evoking a spalike feel, these


earrings speak serenity.
But change the ring to
read love, pair it with
ruby crystals, and its
infused with a completely
different look and spirit.

serenity earrings
TECHNIQUES
:: wireworking
:: right-angle weave

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 12

BEADED BEAD
1): Use 3' of thread to string one 8mm
crystal, 5 seed beads, one 2mm round,
and 5 seed beads. Pass through the 8mm
crystal again, snugging the beads around
the crystal. Pass through all the beads
again to secure (Fig. 1). Repeat three
times, positioning the beads so that you
have two strands on opposite sides of
the crystal.
2):Pass through beads to exit from a
2mm round, string one 2mm round and
pass up through the 2mm round on the
adjacent strand. String one 2mm round
and pass down through the 2mm round
on the initial strand to complete a rightangle-weave unit; pass through the four
2mm rounds again to secure (Fig. 2).
Weave through beads to reach the
strands on the other side of the crystal
and repeat to form a second unit.
3):Pass through beads to exit from
one of the seed beads at the top of the
crystal. String one 3mm round and pass
through the opposite seed bead, so that
the 3mm round covers the hole of the
crystal. Continue passing through the
strand of beads and add a 3mm round
to cover the bottom hole of the crystal.
Pass through a strand of beads to exit

the first 3mm round. String 7 seed


beads and pass through the 3mm
round to form a loop. Pass through the
loop again to reinforce, then repeat to
add a 7 seed-bead loop to the opposite
3mm round (Fig. 3). Weave through all
of the beads surrounding the crystal
to reinforce, trim close, and set aside.
EARRINGS
4):Use an eye pin to string 1 bicone and
form a simple loop that attaches to an
ear wire. Use a head pin to string one
3mm round, 1 glass rondelle, and one
3mm round and form a simple loop.
Use an oval jump ring to string the glass
dangle, the eye of the beaded link, and
1 message ring; close the ring.
5) Connect 3 oval jump rings, attaching
the first jump ring to the message ring,
and the third jump ring to the seedbead loop at one end of the beaded
bead. Use a head pin to string 1 bicone
and form a simple loop that attaches to
the end of a 3-link chain. Use a round
jump ring to connect the other end of
the chain to the other seed bead loop.

MATERIALS
2 g white matte size 14 seed beads
4 Pacific opal 4mm crystal bicones
2 Pacific opal 8mm crystal rounds
2 light blue12x8mm recycled glass
faceted rondelles
16 sterling silver 2mm rounds
8 sterling silver 3mm rounds
2 sterling silver 22mm message rings
2 sterling silver 22-gauge eye pins
4 sterling silver 22-gauge head pins
2 sterling silver 4mm round jump rings
8 sterling silver 18-gauge 5x7mm oval
jump rings
" sterling silver 4mm heavy cable chain
2 sterling silver French ear wires
White beading thread

TOOLS
Beading needle
Scissors
Chain-nose pliers
Wire cutters
Round-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 6"

6) Repeat Steps 15 for a second


earring. !

Fig. 3:
Adding loops

Fig. 2: Working the


right-angle-weave unit
Fig. 1: Adding
the first set of beads
RESOURCES
Check your local bead shop or contact: Metal beads,
Swarovski crystals, message rings, chain, and findings:
Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137,
www.firemountaingems.com.

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.


2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 13

project

sjournee
flower
Named after one of
my daughter's friends, this
sculptural peyote-stitched
flower is pretty and versatile.
Personalize your design by
using your favorite button,
This piece, inspired by a
chain, crystal, and stone
Victorian beaded-flower form
rondelles.
created with lacy stitch (or
netting), celebrates form, dimension,
and beadwork history.

TECHNIQUES
:: netting
:: peyote stitch
:: picot

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 14

1) PETAL. Use 2' of thread, seed beads,


1 rondelle, and very tight tension to form
a sculptural petal with peyote and
square stitches:
Rows 1 and 2: String 5A, leaving a 4" tail.
Row 3: Peyote-stitch 1A in each stitch for
a total of 3A. Tie a knot with the working and tail threads to hold the beads
in place (Fig. 1).
Row 4: Peyote-stitch 2A in each stitch
for a total of 4A (Fig. 2).
Row 5: Peyote-stitch 1A, 1B, 1B, 1B,
and 1A. Make the step up for the next
and subsequent even rows by looping
the thread under the exposed thread
at the edge of the beadwork; pass back
through the last bead strung (Fig. 3).
Row 6: Peyote-stitch 1A, 1B, 1B, and 1A.
Row 7: Peyote-stitch 1A and 1B. Weave
through the next stitch from the
previous row to skip a stitch.
Peyote-stitch 1B and 1A (Fig. 4).
Row 8: Peyote-stitch 1B. Square-stitch
1C to the next Row 6 B. String 1 rondelle.
Square-stitch 1C to the next Row 6 B.
Pass through the next Row 7 B.
Peyote-stitch 1B (Fig. 5).
Row 9: Peyote-stitch 1A. String 1B;
pass through the next 1C/rondelle/1C
from Row 8. Peyote-stitch 1B and 1A.
Row 10: Peyote-stitch 1B. String 1C; pass
through the rondelle. Peyote-stitch
1C and 1B (Fig. 6).
Row 11: Peyote-stitch 1A and 1B. Pass
through the nearest Row 10 C, the
rondelle, and the next Row 10 C.
Peyote-stitch 1B and 1A.
Row 12: Peyote-stitch 1B. String 1C; pass
through the rondelle. Peyote-stitch 1C
and 1B (Fig. 7).
Row 13: Peyote-stitch 1A, 1B, 2C, 1B,
and 1A.
Row 14: Peyote-stitch 1A and 1C. Pass
through 2C from Row 13. Peyote-stitch
1C and 1A (Fig. 8).
Row 15: Work a hidden decrease at the
beginning of the row. Peyote-stitch 1A,
2C, and 1A.
Row 16: Work a hidden decrease at the
beginning of the row (Fig. 9a). Peyote-

Fig. 1: Tying a knot


to secure Rows 13

Fig. 2: Working the


Row 4 increases

Fig. 6: Working around the


rondelle in Rows 9 and 10

Fig. 3: Completing Row


5 and the step up

Fig. 7: Working
around the
rondelle
in Rows 11
and 12

Fig. 4: Skipping
a stitch midrow
in Row 7

Fig. 8: Row 13
(indicated in
green); Row 14
(indicated in
blue); Row 15
(indicated in red)

b
Fig. 5: Working square and
peyote stitches in Row 8

stitch 1A. Pass through 2C from Row


15. Peyote-stitch 1A.
Row 17: Work a hidden decrease at the
beginning of the row. Peyote-stitch 2C.
Row 18: Work a hidden decrease at the
beginning of the row. Pass through
the nearest Row 17 C. String 1C
and pass through the next 1C of the
previous row (Fig. 9b). Secure the
working thread and trim; do not
cut the tail thread. Set aside.
Repeat entire step four times
for a total of 5 petals.
2) FLOWER CENTER. Use the tail
threads to work decreasing circularpeyote stitch, connecting the petals:
Round 1: String 1A, pass through the Row 1

edge bead of a second petal, holding the

Fig. 9: Row 16 (indicated in blue);


Rows 17 and 18 (indicated in red)

petals so they curl in the same direction;


weave through Rows 1 and 2 of the
cond petal. Repeat to connect all
5 petals in a circle, adding a total of
5A. Step up for the next round by passing through the first Row 1 bead of the
second petal (Fig. 10). Note: If you run
out of thread, secure it and begin
working with another tail thread.
Round 2: Work 2 peyote stitches with 1A
in each. Work a decrease by passing
through the next 2A of Row1 in the
petals. Repeat around for a total
of 10A. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the
first bead added in this round (Fig. 11).

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page 15

Round 3: Peyote-stitch 1A in each stitch

for a total of 10A. Step up as before


(Fig. 12).
Round 4: Repeat Round 3.
Round 5: String 1A; pass through
the next 2A from Round 4.
Repeat to add a total of 5A.
Round 6: Peyote-stitch 1A in each
stitch for a total of 5A. Weave
through the final round again
to reinforce. Secure the remaining
threads and trim; leave at least one
tail thread intact.
Button: Sew the button to the seed
beads at the center of the flower,
keeping the thread hidden within
the beads. Secure the thread and
trim. Set the flower aside.
3) CHAIN. Tie the end of 3' of thread
to an end chain link using several
overhand knots. String {3A, 1C, 4B,
and 1C} twice. Pass down through the
nearest chain link and up through the
next. Repeat for the length of the
chain, weaving the seed-bead strand
through the chain links. Pass back
through all the seed beads to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim.

4) DANGLES. Use 1 head pin to


string 1 bicone; form a simple loop.
Repeat twenty times using the remaining bicone and round crystals
and the amethyst coin for a total of
14 bicone dangles, 6 round dangles,
and 1 coin dangle.
5) ASSEMBLY. Start 1' of new thread
that exits the tip of the upper-right
petal of the flower. Center the flower
on the chain and sew the tip to the
chains seed-bead strand. Weave
through the seed-bead strand to exit
near the center back of the flower;
sew the petal to the seed-bead strand
as before. Weave through the seedbead strand to exit near the tip of
the petals upper-left petal and sew
the petal to the chain. Opening and
closing the simple loops as you would
jump rings, attach 3 round and
7 bicone dangles to the chain links
on each side of the flower. Use 1 jump
ring to attach the lobster clasp to one
free end of the chain; use 1 jump ring
to attach the amethyst dangle to the
other end of the chain. !

ARTISTS TIP
t6TFWFSZUJHIUUFOTJPOBTZPV
stitch the petals, allowing the
beadwork to curve over your
thumb as you work.
t5SZVOFYQFDUFECVUUPOBOE
seed-bead color combinationsyou may happen
upon a beautiful surprise.
t.BLFTFWFSBMPXFSTBOE
stitch their tips together to
create an ornate necklace
or bracelet.

Fig. 12: Round 3

Fig. 10: Joining


the petals in
Round 1

RESOURCES
Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads: Beyond Beadery,
(800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com. Stones: Dakota Stones, (866) 871-1990,
www.dakotastones.com. Chain and clasp: The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032,

Fig. 11: Making


decreases in
Round 2

www.thebeadmonkey.com. Head pins: Ornamentea, (919) 834-6260,


www.ornamentea.com. Swarovski crystals: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads,
(800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

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page 16

project

golden oak
After the metallized oak leaf that I
bought in Tucson broke in my suitcase
on the way home, I decided to design
one of my own using seed beads. The
leaf is flanked by acorns created with
crystal-pearl drops and peyote-st itched
caps to create a nature-inspired necklace that rightly welcomes autumn.

TECHNIQUES
:: circular, tubular,
and free-form
peyote stitch
:: wireworking

See p. 21 for helpful


technique information.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.
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page 17

1) BEAD CAPS. Use 1' of thread


and A to work circular and tubular
peyote stitch, creating a bead cap:
Round 1: String 6A, leaving a short tail.
Tie a knot to form a tight circle.
Round 2: String 1A; pass through the
next 1A of the previous round. Repeat
around to add a total of 6A. Step up
at the end of this and the following
rounds by passing through the first
bead added.
Round 3: Repeat Round 2.
Round 4: String 2A; pass through the next
1A of the previous round. Repeat to
add a total of 12A.
Rounds 57: String 1A; pass through the
next 1A of the previous round. Repeat
to add 1A between each A for a total
of 12A (Fig. 1).

Weave through beads to repeat the


thread path for Round 7 only, pulling
tight with each stitch. This will tighten
and cup the beadwork. Secure the
thread and trim. Set aside.
Repeat entire step six times for a total
of 7 bead caps.
2) ACORN LINK. Place a bead stop
2" from the end of 10" of thread. String
1 bicone, 1 bead cap ( from outside to
inside), 1 bright gold pearl (large end
first), and 8B. Pass back through the
pearl, cap, and bicone, pulling tight to
form a seed-bead loop. String 8B; pass
through the bicone, cap, pearl, and
seed-bead loop. Pass back through the
pearl, cap, and bicone. Remove the bead
stop and tie a square knot with the tail
and working threads (Fig. 2). Repeat the
thread path as many times as possible
reinforce. Secure the thread and trim.
Set aside.

Repeat entire step three times using


bright gold and antique brass pearls for
a total of 2 bright-gold-acorn links and
2 antique-brass-acorn links.

3) LEAF BASE. Place a bead stop


2" from the end of 3' of thread. Use
size 15s and free-form peyote stitch
to create the base of the leaf.

Note: All the following bead counts are


approximate since youll be working
free-form.
Center vein: String 54C. Pass back

through the fortieth C just added


to form the bottom loop.
Right-side loops: String 32C; pass back
through the thirtieth center-vein C
to form a loop along the side. String
38C; pass back through the twentieth
center-vein C. String 28C; pass back
through the tenth center-vein C.
String 16C; pass back through the first
center-vein C (Fig. 3). Remove the bead
stop and tie a knot with the working
and tail threads. String 1B and pass
through the first center-vein C.
Left-side loops: String an even number
of C to closely (but not exactly) match
the last loop created on the right side.
Pass through the ninth or eleventh
center-vein C. Repeat to create a
series of 4 loops down the left side
of the center vein, always passing
through the C before or after the place

MATERIALS
5 g matte bronze size 15 seed
beads (A)
1 g gold-lined clear size 15
seed beads (B)
3 g metallic forest green size 15
seed beads (C)
7 mocca AB 3mm crystal bicones
2 bright gold 811mm crystal
pearl drops
2 antique brass 811mm crystal
pearl drops
3 Bordeaux 811mm crystal pearl drops
1 gold-filled or brass 2" head pin
2 brass 56mm oval jump rings
1 gold-filled or brass 612mm
lobster clasp
11" of brass 79mm textured oval curb
chain with unsoldered links
Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS
Scissors
Size 12 beading needle
Bead stop
Wire cutters
Round-nose pliers
Chain- or flat-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 16"


(EXPANDABLE TO 17")

Fig. 1: Working
a bead cap

Fig. 3: Adding
the right-side
loops

Fig. 2: Assembling
an acorn link

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page 18

EDITORS TIP

where the right-side loops attach. Exit


from the third C of the bottom loop.
4) LEAF EDGE. String 1C, skip the next
C of the bottom loop, and pass through the
following C. Repeat to peyote-stitch the
entire loop until you exit the second-to-last
C of the loop. Pass through the nearest C
of the next right-side loop.

If you dont have chain with


unsoldered links, use thick
brass jump rings that
coordinate with the chain to
join the links in Step 8.
to keep the work from buckling
too much. Step up.

Repeat peyote-stitching with 1C in each


stitch until you reach the point where the
current loop touches the next (about 9
stitches). Pass through the nearest C
of the next right-side loop and continue adding a peyote-stitched edge as before
to the perimeter of the leaf (Fig. 4). Exit from
the first down bead in the center
of the bottom loop.

Note: Dont worry about asymmetry with the


decreasesit adds to the character
of the leaf.

5) CIRCLES. Work rounds of circular


peyote stitch inside each loop of the leaf s
base using A and B beads:
Round 1: String 1A and pass through the next
down bead of the bottom loop. Repeat
around the circle, picking up beads at the
top of the circle to complete the round.
Step up for the next round by passing
through the first A added (Fig. 5).
Round 2: Use 1A in each stitch to work
the round, decreasing as desired

Repeat entire step seven times to fill each


of the 8 remaining loops with circular
peyote stitch. Each loop will require a
different number of rounds, depending
on the size of the loop and how h youd like
the final leaf to appear. You can fill in the circle fully or leave a hole in the center. If
desired, use A instead of B, working the final
round on one of the small loops. The beadwork will kink and buckle, which is desired
to give the leaf a more natural look.

Round 3: Use 1B in each stitch to work the

round, decreasing as necessary to keep the


work fairly flat. Weave through all
B beads again to close the circle (Fig. 6).
Weave through beads to exit from
a down bead in the next loop.

Fig. 5: Working
Round 1 of the
bottom circle

Fig. 4: Peyote-stitching
along the loops

Fig. 8: Making an
acorn connector

Fig. 6: Finishing the


circle with B beads

Fig. 7: Adding

UIFSVGFEFEHF

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page 19

6) RUFFLED EDGE. Start 3' of new


thread that exits from an up bead
(1C) at the top-left side of the leaf.
String 2B and pass through the next
1C. Repeat around the outside of the
leaf to create a slightly ruffled edge
(Fig. 7). Exit from the 1B at the top of
the center vein.
7) ACORN CONNECTORS.
String 1 Bordeaux pearl (small end
first), 1 bead cap ( from inside to outside), the bicone, cap, pearl, and 1B
on the leaf Weave through leaf beads
so you can connection (Fig. 8). Secure
the thread and trim.

Start 8" of new thread that exits from


1B at the join of the leaf s edge between the third and fourth loops on
the leaf s left side. Make another
acorn connector as before.
8) ASSEMBLY. Finish the necklace
with the acorn links, a dangle, and
chain:
Acorn links: Detach 4 links from the
chain, opening and closing them

as you would jump rings. Use


1 chain link to attach the bead-cap
side of 1 bright-gold-acorn link
to the loop of one of the acorn
connectors. Use another chain
link to attach the other side of the
previous link to the pearl side of 1
antique-brass-acorn link. Repeat
using the remaining acorn
connector on the other side
of the leaf.
Acorn dangle: Use the head pin to
string 1 Bordeaux pearl (large end
first), 1 bead cap ( from inside to
outside), and 1 bicone; form a
wrapped loop .
Chain: Open the end link on one 3"
piece of chain and attach it to the
free loop of the antique-brassacorn loop on the right side of
the necklace. Use 1 jump ring to
attach the clasp to the other end
of the chain. Repeat on the other
side of the necklace, using 5"
of chain and the remaining jump
ring to attach the acorn dangle
to the free end of the chain. !

ARTISTS TIPS
tBecause

the bead caps


use all the same color for
each round, its easy to
miss the step up.
One trick is to set out
the number of beads
you need for each round
before you begin. When
youve stitched the last
bead in a round, you
know its time to step up.

tJean

chose an autumnthemed colorway for


this necklace, but any
pleasing colorway will
workthink of spring
and summer.

RESOURCES
Check your local bead shop or
contact: Seed beads and Swarovski
crystal bicones and pearls:
FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.
Chain: Michaels, (800) 642-4235,
www.michaels.com. Findings and
FireLine braided beading thread:
The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032,
www.thebeadmonkey.com.

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com.


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page 20

techniques
RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE (Single Needle)

RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE (Double Needle)

PICOT

String 4 beads and pass through them


again to form the first unit. For the rest
of the row, string 3 beads, pass through
the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the first two just strung; the
thread path will resemble a figure-eight,
alternating directions with each unit. To
begin the next row, pass through the last
3 beads strung to exit the side of the last
unit. String 3 beads, pass through the last
bead passed through, and the first bead just
strung. *String 2 beads, pass through the
next edge bead of the previous row, the last
bead passed through in the previous unit,
and the last 2 beads just strung. Pass through
the next edge bead of the previous row, string
2 beads, pass
through the last
bead of the previous unit, the
edge bead just
passed through,
a n d t h e f i r st
bead just strung.
Repeat from *
to complete the
row then begin
a new row as
before.

Using one needle on each end of the thread,


string 3 beads to the center of the thread.*Use
one needle to string 1 bead, then pass the other
needle back through it. String 1 bead on each
needle, then repeat from * to form a chain of
right-angle units (A).
To turn at the end of the row, use the left needle
to string 3 beads, then cross the right needle
back through the last bead strung (B). Use the
right needle to string 3 beads, then cross the left
needle back through the last bead strung (C). To
continue the row, use the right needle to string
2 beads; pass the left needle through the next
bead on the previous row and back through the
last bead strung (D).

To make a picot, string three (A) or five (B)


beads and weave into the next high bead.
This sequence is woven into the gaps of
edge beading to create a lacey effect and is
sometimes used to transition to decreasing
stitches.

Tie off your old thread when its about 4" long
by making a simple knot between beads. Pass
through a few beads and pull tight to hide the
knot. Weave through a few more beads and
trim the thread close to the work. Start the
new thread by tying a knot between beads
and weaving through a few beads. Pull tight
to hide the knot. Weave through several
beads until you reach the place to resume
beading.

LADDER STITCH

Using two needles, one threaded on each


end of the thread, pass one needle through
one or more beads from left to right and
pass the other needle through the same
beads from right to left. Continue adding
beads by crisscrossing both needles through
one bead at a time. Use this stitch to make
strings of beads or as the foundation for
brick stitch.

F I N I S H I N G A N D S TA R T I N G
NEW THREADS

Start

FRINGE

Exit from your foundat i o n row of b e a d s o r


fabric. String a length of
beads plus 1 bead. Skipping the last bead, pass
b a c k t h ro u g h a l l t h e
beads just strung to create a fringe leg. Pass back
into the foundation row or fabric.

N E T T I N G (Single Thread)

Begin by stringing a base row of 13 beads. String


5 beads and go back through the fifth bead
from the end of the base row. String another
5 beads, skip 3 beads of the base row, and go
back through the next; repeat to the end of
the row. To turn, pass back through the last 3
beads (one leg of the last net). String 5 beads,
pass back through the center bead of the next
net and continue.

For a single-needle ladder, string 2 beads


and pass through them again. String 1 bead.
Pass through the last stitched bead and the
one just strung. Repeat, adding one bead at
a time and working in a figure-eight pattern.

STRINGING

Stringing is a technique in which you use


beading wire, needle and thread, or other
material to gather beads into a strand.

CRIMPING

String a crimp tube and pass through the


connection finding. Pass back through the
tube, leaving a short tail. Use the back notch
of a crimping pliers to pinch the tube into a U,
leaving a wire on each side
of the bend. Rotate the tube
90 and use the front notch
to form the pinched tube
into a clean cylinder.

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page 21

techniques
PEYOTE STITCH

WIREWORKING

To make a simple loop, grasp one


end of the wire with round-awire
with one hand, gently turn the pliers until the wire end and wire body
touch. Create a 90 reverse bend
where they meet.
One-drop flat peyote stitch begins by
stringing an even number of beads to create the first two rows. Begin the third row
by stringing 1 bead and passing back
through the second-to-last bead of the
previous row. String another bead and
pass back through the fourth-to-last bead
of the previous row. Continue adding 1
bead at a time, passing over every other
bead of the previous row.

Two-drop flat peyote stitch is worked the


same as above, but with 2 beads at a time
instead of 1.

Make a mid-project peyote-stitch


increase by working a two-drop over a
one-drop in one row. In the next row, work
a one-drop peyote stitch between the twodrop. For a smooth increase, use very narrow beads for both the two-drop and the
one-drop between.

To make a mid-project peyote-stitch


decrease, simply pass the thread through
2 beads without adding a bead in the gap."
In the next row, work a regular one-drop
peyote stitch over the decrease. Keep tension taut to avoid holes.

For circular peyote stitch, string 3 beads


and form the first round by passing
through the first bead. For the second
round, string 2 beads and pass through
the next bead of the previous round;
repeat twice. To step up to the third
round, pass through the first bead of the
current round. For the third round, string
1 bead and pass through the next bead of
the previous round; repeat all around,
then step up at the end of the round.
Continue in this manner, alternating the
two previous rounds. You may need to
adjust the bead count depending on the
relative size of the beads in order to keep
the circle flat.

For a wire-wrapped loop, cut the desired


length of wire and make a 90 bend 2" from
one end. Use round-nose pliers to hold the
wire near the angle and bend the short end
up and around the pliers until it meets itself.
Wrap the wire tightly down the neck of the
wire to create a couple of coils. Trim the
excess to finish.
BRICK STITCH

Begin by creating a foundation row in ladder


stitch. String 2 beads and pass under the
closest exposed loop of the foundation row
and back through the second bead. String
1 bead and pass under the next exposed
loop and back through the bead just strung;
repeat.

For tubular peyote stitch, string an even


number of beads and make a foundation
circle by passing through them two more
times, exiting from the first bead strung.
String 1 bead and pass through the third
bead of the foundation circle. String
1 bead and pass through the fifth bead of
the foundation circle. Continue adding
1 bead at a time, skipping over 1 bead of
the first round, until you have added half
the number of beads of the first round.
Step up for the next round by exiting from
the first bead of the second round. String
1 bead, pass through the second bead
added in the second round, and pull
thread tight. String 1 bead and pass
through the third bead added in the second round. Continue around, filling in the
spaces" 1 bead at a time. Exit from the
first bead added in each round.

To decrease within a row, string 1 bead and


skip a loop of thread on the previous row,
passing under the second loop and back
through the bead.

To increase within a row, work two stitches


in the same loop on the previous row.
For circular brick stitch, work increases as
needed to keep the work flat; at the end of
each round, pass through the first and last
beads to stitch them together, then string
2 beads to begin the next round.

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page 22

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