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Features of Micro-fiber or (Fine-Denier Fiber)

Effects of Fabrics:
Soft touch
   Excellent Drape property
Freshness
Comfortable
High Exhaustion of oil and others etc.

*1) Shin-Gohsen is a mixture (blending) of many kinds of Micro-Fiber


(Fine-denier) Polyester filament, following new touch were obtained.
   Peach skin touch
   Rayon touch (Rose pedal touch)
   New silky touch
   New woolen touch
(Definition of Micro-fiber (Fine denier

Less than 1 dtex (φ10 μm):


difficult to spin industrially, called ultra fine fiber or micro-fiber
Less than 0.1 dtex: called ultra micro-fiber
Less than 0.01 dtex: called super ultra micro-fiber

0.01 dtex 0.02


Applications of Micro-fiber
Shin-Gohsen (Complex fiber) Artificial Leather *1)   Garments, Bug, Shoes,
Silky touch (Suede, Smooth) Cap, Sports goods,
Rose petal touch Artificial Fur Furniture, Car seat,
Peach skin touch High touch materials Wall Cloth, Display tool,
Powder touch Polishing material

Flexibility
Fissionability *2) Wiping property
Aesthetic property Filtration property
*5) Reduction of Fluid resistance
Hydro-plane property
Non-adherent of        *3) Absorption property
Sea plants and animals Water Repellent property
Development of
Micro-Fiber
*6) Response property to Ultra micro-fiber
*4) Application using
Environment
Specific Property
Chemical reactive property
Response property to electricity
High strength
High Smoothing
*7) Reinforcement property
Disposition property
*8) Compatibility
to living body
*1) Application of high touch materials
Garments, bag, shoes, cap,
*5) Reduction of Fluid resistance: Glove for golf, Golf bag
Ski and Skate wear, Jump suits, Furniture, Car sheet,
Swimming race wear Wall Cloth, Display tool,
Polishing material,
Video deck, Tape recorder, Piano,
Water absorption roll, Mouse pad

*6) Application to 2) Application of Wiping


Response property to environment and filtering property
Chemical reactive property Wiping cloth, Wiper for spectacles,
Response property to electricity Cleansing cloth, Greasy sweat cloth,
High speed response gel fiber Dust cloth, Mouse pad,
Heat resistance/chemical resistance High performance Air filter,
Squeezing roll Filtering cloth/ Filtering materials,
Artificial muscle Anti-dusting wear, Anti-dusting mask,
Micro-scissors/ tweezer (for Catheter) Battery Separator,
Morter-less drive Side cloth for Quilt Down
Healthy underwear,
Anti-vermin bed cloth etc.
3) Application of Absorption and Water repellent property
Water permeable/ Water repellent Woven/ Knitted fabrics,
Water permeable/ Water repellent Construction materials,
Water absorbable/ Oil absorbable materials,
Water Absorbable towel, Water absorbable roller,
Stamp pad, Typing ribbon, Oil/ Water separation fabrics

4) Special usages
Polishing cloth, Sound control cloth,
Environmental control cloth for making sensitivity mood
Vivid printing , Map fabrics,
Distinction fabrics, Bar code fabrics,
Hot melt adhesive materials,
Air bug for automobile, Information built-in fiber,
Handy garments (Low bulky, Collapsible),
Signet stamp pad, Writing pad,
Cushion materials, Recycling Battery materials
*7) Application to Reinforcement and Disposition property
Ion exchangeable fiber; In-vitro Circulatory artificial liver,
Ammonia gas absorption filter, Image guide,
Fiber reinforced plastics, Fibriled paper,
Super electro conductive fiber with metal complex

*8) Using for Compatible living body


Artificial blood tube, Artificial bone,
Separation materials of blood, Cell culture carrier,
Base material for enzyme fixation, Artificial tendon
Molecular size of Disperse dye
Vacancy among molecular
of PES polymer

0.01 dtex
Electron Microscope

Visible ray

Distribution of Particle size


of Disperse dye

Vacancy among PES filament

0.02
Thickness of mono filament
Optical Microscope

Bulky Particle size in speck


Mesh of Fabrics (500 mesh)
Size / Scale of Disperse Dye and Polyester fiber

Visible Speck size


Naked eye

Causing Clog
0.03

by Coagulated Particle
Production Method Soluble to solvent Insoluble to solvent

Filament type : Before Separation After Separation

  Island-in-a sea type fiber

Separate type
  Separate type conjugate spinning
  Improved orthodox spinning type
  Weight reducing type
  Super draw type
  Drawing by Laser heating

Dissolved Remove type


Random type :
  Meltblow spinning
  Flash spining
  Fiblisation
  Polymer blend spinning
  Tuck spinning
  Burst spinning
  Bacterium spinning
  Others
:General Dyeing Process

Pre-treatment Polyester Micro-fiber

・ Weight Reducing Finishing


・ Relax Scouring
・ Heat Setting

・ Dyeing
Examples of Dyeing process
(Without Weight Reducing, Relaxing process)

Example 1;
   Desizing—Rinsing—Drying—Pre-heat setting—Dyeing—Drying--Finishing

Example 2;
   Desizing—Rinsing—Dyeing—Drying—Finishing

Example 3;
   Desizing—Rinsing—Drying—Softening—Drying—Raising finishing—Setting
   --Dyeing—Softening--Finishing

Example 4;
   Desizing—Rinsing—Drying—Pre-heat setting—Dyeing—Softening—Drying
  — Raising finishing—Rinsing--Finishing
Weight Reducing Finishing

1)   Purpose
   a) Roughing on the face of fabrics
   b) Softening by slender of yarn (less solidness)
   c) Loosing the organization of fabrics and giving drape property

2)   Care points
   a) Reduction rate: Generally 10-30% and taken care of over
reduction
   b) Not to happen Uneven reduction parts
c) Deterioration of strength of fabrics by over reducing
d) Yellowing of fabrics
e) Removal of decomposed polyester
f) Troubles caused by Accelerator for weight reduction
g) Wastewater treatment problem, especially accelerator
3)   Technical points

a) Procedures ; Many variations, such as Atmospheric pressure method,


High pressure method, Continuous process, Hanging method
b) Stable reduction rate ; Caustic soda 4-20%  
c) Using accelerator (quaternary ammonium salt)—
Control on Kinds of accelerator and Amounts
Control of treatment temperature, time and liquor ratio
             (95-130 ℃ 、 1:20—1:60 )
d) Uneven weight reduction relates to uneven dyeing
e) Management of raw fabrics----
         Scouring condition, uniform padding, pick-up rate, moisture rate,
f) Other care points ;
  ・ Less uneven scouring
  ・ Yellowing by residual accelerator
  ・ Removing oligomer, decomposed polyester---causing logging at beam
dyeing,
   staining on dyeing machine and broken the knitting needle
  ・ Lowering the yarn strength
・ Residual accelerator causes Tarring trouble with disperse dye
・ Lowering color reproducibility by Residual accelerator
  ・ Wastewater treatment, increasing BOD, and influence to activated sludge
Procedures and Characteristics of Procedures

Process Operation Strength Handling Amount Control

Atmosphere Boiling method -Batch X ◎ ◎ large ◎


Immense to NaOH soln. and wise easiest
boiling in loop method

  Atmosphere boiling method -Batch X ○ ○ small ○


With Accelerator wise easy
) Jet dyeing machine)

High pressure 130℃ method -Batch △ △ △—○ medium ○


) Jet dyeing machine) wise

High Pressure 130℃ method -Batch ○--△ X△-- △—○ least ○


with Accelerator wise
) Jet dyeing machine)

Continuous Pad-batch (roll( Semi-- ○ ◎ ◎ large ○


method continuo
.us

Continuous Pad-steam method continuo ◎ ○ ○--◎ medium ○


  us

Continuous Pad- cylinder dry continuo ◎ △—○ △ large △—○


  method us
Calculation Method of Caustic Soda
Weight reduction rate )%)=
(192 X weight of NaOH) / (2 X 40) / weight of fabrics X 100 =
192 / 80 X using amount % owf of NaOH
  192 : Molecular Weight of PES 、 
2 X 40 : Molecular Weight of NaOH
  Weight of NaOH : gram number

Merits of high Pressure method :


Even weight reduction
Uniform reduction at any woven organization
Available to smaller amounts of caustic soda
Shorten the treatment time

Merits by using accelerators;


  Shortening time
  Homogenize among lot to lot variation
  Reduction of caustic soda amount
Examples of practical weight reduction recipe

Example 1 ;  Jet dyeing machine


  NaOH 10-30 g/l
  Accelerator    0.5 g/l
  95℃ X 60 min. ) Boil X 30—60 min. ) Liquor ratio 1 : 30
  After treatment ;
  Sandzpan LKF (Sandoz) 430 ml /
Disperon 100 (Takamatss Yusi) 1073 ml /1,200 l
Soaping 95℃ X 20 min. Not to use acid in this case.

Example 2 ; 
  NaOH     30 g/l
  Hydrosulfite   5 g/l
  98—100℃ X 75 min.    Reduction rate ; 20%

Example 3 ;  High Pressure method


  NaOH    x % owf (by calculated upon equation)
  Accelerator    0.5-2 g/l
  Liquor ratio  1:30   130℃ X 60 min.
Example 4 ;  Jigger dyeing machine
  Scouring by Jigger Heat setting Weight Reduction  Rinsing 
Neutralization  Soaping
  NaOH     3%
  Accelerator      0.05%
  95-98℃   Passing 6-8 times

Example 5 ;  Winch dyeing machine


  NaOH     x % owf
  Accelerator      0.5-2 g/l
Dispersing agent   2 g/l
  Boil X 60-110 min.
 Neutralization by Acetic acid 2 g/l 、 Dispalon 100 1 g/l
 Hot rinsing, and rinsing

Example 6 ; Pad Steam or Pad  Dry  Neutralization Hot rinsing and


rinsing
  NaOH     10 % soln.
  Methanol or penetrating agent 0.5 g/l

Example 7 ;  Boiling in loop method


  Winding Andon type of polyester
  NaOH    30-40 g/l
  Liquor ratio   1 : 30   95-97℃ X 2 hrs.
Example 8 ;  Pad  Roll method
  NaOH    150-300 g/l  
  Pad Batching up (Rolling)   Φ70-80 cm
  Cover with vinyl-sheet, and holding at 80℃ X 6-7 hrs.  
Rotation by 1-12 r.p.m.

Example 9 ; Pad  Steam method or Pad  Dry method


  NaOH    300 g/l
  Neorate NA-30 (Nikka Chemical) 10 g/l
  40%   pick-up
  Steaming ; 130℃ 30 min. or Baking ; 150℃ X 5 min.

Examples of commercial products as accelerator ;


   Olinax ) Meisei Chemical )
   Sancleaner V9 ) Nikka Chemical )
   Catiosol NS-11 (Takamatsu Yusi)
Rinsing after treatment :
Rinsing Acid rinsing Soaping

Rinsing ; Removal of Na-salt of Tere-phtharic acid


Acid rinsing ; Removal of auxiliary 、
If insufficient removal of them, it will cause tarring problem
at dyeing
Acetic acid(90%)    2-3 ml/l    60℃ X 20 min.
Soaping ; Removing auxiliary
       Example of soaping agent ;
Marseilles Soap 2 g/l
         Dyedisper CD 2 g/l
         Mignol 802 3 g/l
All treated at 90℃ x 20 min.
lax Scouring
Purpose
a( Removing impurities, thickener, oil coatings ; 
   These materials causes uneven dyeing, if they are not removed enou
b( Giving swelling of fabrics ; 
Adding the higher added value and improvement,
such as Bulky property, Stretch property, Soft handling etc.

Care points
a) Rope creasing, broken creasing
b) Utilization of beating effects
c) Heating-up speed and higher temperature treatment

Technical Points
a) It is necessary to treat the fabrics in tensionless condition
b) Treatment condition must be differ by the fabrics woven organization,
by kinds of material, kinds of dyeing machine
c) In generally it is said first with weak tension, and not to happen creasing at low
temperature, then temperature increase and tensionless treatment and finally
slow cooling.
4) Example of recipe

90- 100℃

30 min.

60℃ 20 min. 60℃


Hot rinsing- cold rinsing

Nonionic detergent 1 g/ l
Soda ash 1 g/ l
Heat Setting:
1)   Purpose
   a) To reduce the shrinkage of the fabrics at dyeing
   b) To avoid the fixation of creasing mark

2) General Treatment condition : 


150-200℃ X 30sec.

3) Technical Points
   a) The higher temperature, the higher effect,
     though deteriorate of handling effect.
   b) Treatment temp. must be higher than dyeing temp. ,
     and after heat set condition.
4) Examples of Setting Condition
Regular Polyester:
100% Polyester fabrics 180—210℃ for 30 sec.
Textured fabrics    150—170℃ for 30 sec.
T/C, T/R blended fabrics 190—220 for 30 sec.

Modified Polyester:
100% Polyester fabrics 180—210℃ for 30 sec.
Textured fabrics 150—170℃ for 30 sec.

In some cases for polyester textured fabrics steam set is applied:


Textured fabrics 130±10℃ for 5—10 min.
Denier Number and Surface condition of Filament

Denier No. and Surface area

n m2/ g
Denier number and Relative dyeing depth
Dyeing Speed on Micro- Fiber
Dyeing on Complex Fiber (Mixture of Regular- / Micro-)

Dyeing rate of the dye in same bath

g rate (%(
Surface depth of the fabrics in same bath
Dyeing Technologies must be considered for Micro-fiber
Based on : Thin yarn Bigger surface area

Dyeing Speed
    Absorption of Dye is higher Dyeing speed is higher
Level Dyeing
    Dyeing speed is higher Difficult to even dyeing
Deep shades
Bigger surface area Difficult to get heavy shade
Barriness
Blended different yarn Different dyeing Causes barriness problem
Reproducibility
Blended different yarn Different dyeing  Lowering reproducibility
Handling
Thin yarn Soft touch
Lower Fastnesses
Thin yarn Bigger surface area Easily dye go out from surface
Rubbing and erasing problem
Bigger surface area Fibriled fiber taken out easily
Anti-creasing
Thin yarn Bigger surface area Easily creasing mark, rope mark
Dyeing Properties of Micro-Fiber
・ Surface area of materials is 2-5 times higher than conventional
  type polyester by means of thickness of yearn.

・ Then dye must be used 2-5 times higher than conventional dyeing for getting same
color value.

・ Resultantly fastnesses, such as washing, light, sublimation, rubbing


are reduced.

・ Then it is basic points and must be taken care of removal of unfixed dye and
auxiliaries from fiber.

・ The selection of dye must be carefully for consideration of level dyeing,


reproducibility of color and fastnesses.

・ For Mechanical finishing processes, suede finishing process or raising finishing,


it is necessary to use lubricant, smoothing agent or anti-electro static agent.

・ On the other hand, for to add performance or aesthetic( 審美的) finishing,


   it need finishing agents such as water-oil repellent agent, softening agent, anti-
pilling agent, anti-slipping agent, moisture management agent which must be
taken care of not to deteriorate of fastnesses,
Level Dyeing Technology

The Causes of Uneven dyeing often


Thin yarn Bigger surface area Higher Absorption of Dye  Higher Dyeing speed

For Level dyeing methods on simple fiber


Dyeing temperature ;
Control of dyeing speed---Control of heating-up speed
Higher dyeing temperature is better for level dyeing, for migration
  Dyeing machine operation :
Control of fabrics cycling (speed up)
   Control of Circulation of fabrics and dyeing bath
Longer liquor ratio
  Dyes and Auxiliary phase :
Dye of Larger migration property
    Better compatible dye combination
    Auxiliary having higher migration ability
Examples of General Dyeing Procedure

for pal
Dyeing Recipe;

Dye X %owf
Dispersing Agent 1 g/l
pH adjuster pH 5.0—5.5
ex. Acetic acid and
Na-Acetate 1-3 g/l or
Ammonium sulfate 1-3 g/l

If necessary, add followings


depending on material condition
Sequestering agent 1 g/l
Penetrating agent 1 g/l
Leveling agent 1 g/l

80℃
Selection standards of Dyes for complex micro-fiber ;

・ Solid dyeing on mixed micro-yarn and regular yarn at 120℃ dyeing


(Dyeing temperature for mixed is sometimes lower than simple fiber)
・ Compatible of tri-chromatic colors
・ Good levelness and good reproducibility on Blended different yarn
Different dyeing
・ Good fastness
・ Sometimes levelness and reproducibility are reverse properties.
    Which will be important for the purpose?
・ Dyeing temperature is mostly at 120℃ on Shin-Gohsen (Complex fiber)

Kayalon Microester, Sumikaron MF, Kiwalon Plyester MR


are specially developed for complex micro-fibers
Shade Deepening Technology

The reason why micro-fiber looks pale

1) Higher Reflectance on the surface


Refractive index of polyester is large, as the denier of yarn
decrease, the surface area increase rapidly.
Then the reflectance on the surface increase.

2) Shorter Length of Passage inside the filament


Light pass length in yarn is shorter comparing with yarn diameter,
then the absorbance of light in yarn becomes small.
Shade Deepening Method
Many technicians at fiber maker, dye maker and auxiliary maker have
tried to develop the shade deepening technology from their own situation.

1) Fiber maker; Modify the fiber property


  ・ Improvement of dyeing ability----- CD-PES etc.
(Co-polymerization; Styrene sulfonic acid)
  ・ Modify the surface of yarn-----Development of Porous PES

2) Dye maker; Development of dyes


・ Development of New chromophor with higher color value -----
ex. Hetero-cyclic compounds
・ Application of dyeing technology---- Combination technology

3) Auxiliary maker; Development of dyeing auxiliary


・ Development of finishing agent   (shade deepening agent ) like
addition of oil on the surface of the fiber
Development of Porous Polyester
(Micro-creator )

Creators are made by Plasma,


Before Dyeing or After Dyeing

Modified Polyester with dye site in fabrics


CH=CH2
Co-polymerization of stylene monomer with sulfuric group

SO3Na
Combination Technology:

Exhaustion Rate of Dye by Blending

Compatibility of Dye
%
Fluorescent Whitening Technology

• Principal of whitening Effect , Bluing Effects


• Whiteness and Amounts of Agent
• Quenching Phenomenon
• Machine Staining
• Commercial Products for Polyester
Principal of Fluorescent Whitening

%
Quenching Effects

100 %

Whit
Amount of Agent
Typical Commercial Products for Polyester

Blancophor EBL
Daitophor EFL
Fluolite XMF
Hostalux PE
Mikawhite ATN, HTN, HTS, STN, BBN
Mikephor ETN
Palanil White G, R
Tinopal ERT, ET
Uvitex ERN, EBF , EBX, EMT, EM-V, EDR, EBH, EBB, EVB, EFT
Many of Modified Products

Dyeing Temperature: 120-130℃


Time :   30-60 min.

Color shade: Greenish-----Reddish

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