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1. Introduction
In India, gold is religion.
India’s love affair with gold is timeless, spanning centuries and millennia.
“Gold to us Indians is that ultimate love object... not only does it adorn our bodies, it also
acts as a good investment... Gold is ancestral. From mother to daughter to
granddaughter, (father to son to grandson) gold has a tendency of getting passed down
from generation to generation. So for Indians at gold will never lose its ”.
Jewellery designs ary in different regions of India making the style unique to each
region. In south India the designs are inspired by nature – paisley motif of the mango,
rice grains, melon and cucumber seeds, etc. In western and northern India the Mughals
influenced the meenakari (enamelling) and kundan (seeting of precious and semi-
precious stones in gold) styles to give just give a few examples. Jewellery is crafted not
just for humans but also for the deities, ceremonial elephants, and horses. Hence the
varieties of gold jewellery in India are truly mind-boggling and bears testimony to the
excellent skills of Indian jewellers.
As long as women are fascinated with gold, goldsmiths will make money. The
only difference being that some will make more money than others. The jewellery
industry is going through a period of with more players scaling up operations, increasing
their global footprint through outsourcing and/or venturing into the most touted growth
area the domestic retail business.
India-made jewellery gained momentum in the US markets in the recent past and
industry experts believe that several global retail gaints like Wal-Mart and JC Penney are
likely to source jewellery from India. Besides players are now turning out to newer
markets like EU countries and South East Asian markets where Indian jewellery is more
lucrative than those from other countries.
India also has the cost advantage apart from skilled and cheaper force, which
makes it an attractive outsourcing option for global players. India’s market share in the
jewellery sector was $2.5 billion, which is just 4 per cent of the world market. So there is
significant scope to increase jewellery exports. However, the sustained rise in the rupee
is likely to eat into profit margins of exporters.
1.1 Gold
Gold is described and known as a precious metal. The combination of gold’s
relative scarcity and its obvious beauty has made it a very valuable commodity
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throughout the history of humanity. It is most probably the oldest precious metal known
to man. Wars have been fought over it and countless numbers have died trying to gain it
or protect it. Scientifically speaking, gold is an element, a metal, with an atomic number
79. Its physical and chemical properties make it ideal for a number of applications. It is
very stable and as a result seldom combines with other elements. In other words, it does
not corrode or rusi. It conducts electricity very well (only silver is a better conductor of
electricity). It conducts heat very well. Gold is very malleable which means it can be
hammered into shapes. Gold is so malleable that it can be hammered into a sheet so thin
that wires: a wire thread approximately 50 miles long can be drawn from a single troy
ounce of gold (31.1 grams). It is also one of the densest metals: a cubic foot of gold
weighs over 1,200 pounds. Gold’s chemical symbol is Au. It comes from the Latin word
aurum which means shining dawn, a reference to its bright yellow color and shiny luster.
The English has word gold its origins in Middle English.
Gold found in its native state is rarely pure 24k, but is usually associated with
silver and often with mercury. In its natural state of pure gold, the substance is very
malleable and can be hammered into very thin sheets. When the silver content is a high
percentage of naturally-occurring gold mass, the metal is called electrum, a natural alloy.
Gold is also found in tellurides and ore containing quartz wherein it is either visible, or
enclosed in particles of sulfide minerals such as chalcopyrite, pyrrhotite, pyrite and
arsenopyrite. In some high – production gold mines, the gold is not visible and can be
seen only on a highly polished surface when viewed through a high – powered
microscope.
Gold has no oxides and is not affected by oxygen in the atmosphere, as are other
metals. This is why gold does not tarnish – tarnish is the result of metal reacting with
oxygen in a process called oxidation.
Since gold alone is too soft to hold a form, gold is alloyed (combined with other
metals) in order to make jewelry. When gold is alloyed, its ductility is diminished, but its
malleability remains constant, except when large percentages of copper are added to the
alloy.
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Copper alone added to gold makes the pure gold harder and more difficult to
work; therefore, some percentages of copper and silver are usually combined in the alloy.
White gold-formerly made of an alloy consisting of gold, silver, and/or palladium (from
the platinum family)-is now also alloyed with nickel, copper and zinc to produce more
ideal melting characteristics.
What is a Karat?
A Karat (Karat in USA & Germany) was originally a unit of mass (weight) based
on the Carob seed or bean used by ancient merchants in the Middle East. The Carob seed
is from the Carob or locust bean tree. The carat is still used as such for the weight of gem
stones (1 carat is about 200mg). For gold, it has come to be used for measuring the purity
of gold where pure gold is defined as 24 carats.
How and when this change occurred is not clear. It does involve the Romans who
also used the name Siliqua Graeca (Keration in Greek, Qirat in Arabic, now Carat in
modern times) for the bean of the Carob tree. The Romans also used the name Siliqua for
a small silver coin which was one-twentyfourth of the golden solidus of Constantine.
This latter had a mass of about 4.54 grammes, so the Siliqua was approximately
equivalent in value to the mass of 1 Keration or Siliqua Graeca of gold, i.e the value of
1/24th of a solidus is about 1 Keration of gold, i.e 1 carat.
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Uses
Most gold is used to make jewelry and other art items. Because it is chemically
stable and conducts electricity so well, it is very important in electronics. Electronic
applications represent a significant amount of the United States annual gold consumption,
by dentistry and a variety of other applications.
Gold has been very important as the standard for currency. In 1792 the United
States Congress established gold and silver as the standard for the nation’s money. The
U.S. Department of the Treasury holds a major stockpile of gold.
Traditional mining of lode and placer deposits and by-product production of gold
from copper and silver mining will continue to be the main sources of gold. There is gold
in seawater, but recovering this gold is unlikely to ever be profitable. Recycling gold
from used electronics will provide only a very small amount of gold, though some do find
this venture profitable.
Indians faith in God and gold dates back to the Vedic times; they worshipped
both. The historian Pliny complained that ancient Romes bullion resources were drained
by her Indian trade. Indian merchants always demanded payment in silver during the
times of the East India Company; so much silver was exported from London that East
India Company teetered on the brink of financial disaster. According to the World Gold
Council Report, India stands today as the world’s largest single market for gold
consumption. In developing countries, people have often trusted gold as a better
investment than bonds and stocks.
Gold and silver have been popular in India because historically these acted as a
good hedge against inflation. In that sense these metals have been more attractive than
bank deposits or gilt-edged securities.
Deposit recent hiccups, gold is an important and popular investment for many
reasons
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? In many countries gold remains an integral part of social and religious customs,
besides being the basic form of savings. Shakespeare called it the saint-seducing gold.
? Superstition about the healing powers of gold persists. Ayurvedic medicine in
Indian recommends gold powder and pills for many ailments.
? Gold is indestructible. It does not tarnish and is also not corroded by acid except
by a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acids.
? Gold had aesthetic appeal. Its beauty recommends it for ornament making above
all other metals.
? Gold is so malleable that one ounce of the metal can be beaten into a sheet
covering nearly a hundred square feet.
? Gold is so ductile that one ounce of it can be drawn into fifty miles of thin gold
wire.
? Gold is an excellent conductor of electricity; a microscopic circuit of liquid gold
printed on a ceramic strip saves miles of wiring in a computer.
? Gold is so highly valued that a single smuggler can carry gold worth Rs. 50 lakh
underneath his shirt.
? Gold is so dense that all the 90,000 tonnes estimated to have been mined through
history could be transported by one single modern super tanker.
? Finally, gold is scam-free. So far, there have been no Mundra-type of Mehta-type
scams in gold.
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As South Africa depends on gold sales to balance her budget, her balance of
payment position influences the gold market in the world.
Between 1970 and 1980 came the massive rise from Rs. 184 to Rs. 1,330. During the
80s, it moved up another 240%. The trend of gold prices in India in the last few years is
given in table.
1998 4050
1999 4220
2000 4395
2001 4410
2002 5030
2003 5540
2004 6400
2005 7570
2006 9850
2007 13.800
2008 11.400
2009 15.500
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In 1963, the Gold Control Order was promulgated under the Defense of India Act
in the light of the India-China war. Under the Gold Control Scheme, the maximum
purity of all ornaments to be made in the country, whether from remolten old ornaments
of higher purity of from gold in any other form, was restricted to 14 carats in place of the
earlier 22 carats. Since its inception, the Gold Control Act of 1963 has had to be
amended, diluted and whittled down. Eventually in 1990, the Finance Minister repealed
the Gold Control Act. It was very widely welcomed by one and all, for understandable
reasons.
Gold smuggling into India was rampant as the gold price in India has been
historically higher than the international parity price. For example, on 27 April 1990, the
price of gold (10 gm) in Bombay was Rs. 3,400, whereas the New York price was only
Rs. 2,065. In other words, the Indian price of gold was nearly 65% higher.
The central problem of bullion trade in India is the excess of demand over supply.
As there was a total ban on import of gold, the excess demand was met through large
scale smuggling. According to the Bombay Bullion Association, more than half of the
annual requirement of gold in India (estimated to be around 200 MT) was met by
smuggled gold. However, the situation changed totally after 1992. The ban on gold
imports was lifted in March 1992. All returning NRIs can now bring gold up to 10 kg per
person. They have to pay a fixed duty. This measure is expected to reduce, if not
eliminate, gold smuggling, bring in revenue for the government and reduce the disparity
between international and domestic prices of gold.
You can safely invest in gold. But take care to keep your jewellery in bank
lockers. You can also raise loans on gold for your other portfolio investments. If the
Indian economy continues to be liberalized and unshackled fast, several new options may
emerge for investors to invest in gold bars, gold coins, gold funds, gold mining
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companies and gold options. It will also lead to the eventual equalization of domestic
and international prices.
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The karatage of the jewelry will tell you what percentage of gold it contains: 24
karat is 100 percent, 18 karat is 75 percent, and 14 karat is 58 percent gold. When
comparing gold jewelry, the higher the number of karats, the greater the value.
Europeans have long embraced 18-karat gold as their metal of choice, and with
good reason. Its rich yellow color luxurious look and feel have an extraordinarily sensual
appeal; many European women treat 18-karat gold like a second skin, even wearing it to
the beach!.
Always look for the karat mark or “k” that appears on the back of the piece. By
U.S. law, if a karat mark appears you should also see the manufacture’s trademark to
assure you that the karat marking is accurate. The country of origin should also appear.
In addition to the karat mark, every piece of gold jewelry should be stamped with
a hallmark or trademark of its maker, and sometimes its country of origin. These
designations assure you that you are buying genuine karat gold jewelry.
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Rose gold is alloyed with copper and perhaps silver. The proportions are about
one part of copper to three parts of 24-karat gold.
Other important factors to consider are the jewelry’s construction and design.
The techniques of construction can make a piece more durable and flexible for added
comfort. A well-made piece in a classic design will give you years of wear and
enjoyment and, if cared for properly, will last a lifetime. Unique design, intricate details,
gemstones or a special clasp may add to the price. Gold jewelry is mainly produced by
machine. Any additional hand finishing or textural interest raises the cost. Similar
looking pieces may have vastly different price tags. This is because different pieces may
have specific characteristics that make them unique.
Finally, check the diamond settings periodically for any damage to the gold
prongs or bezels. If you see a loose prong, or if the setting looks out of line, bring it to a
professional jeweler for repair at once.
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The more accurate XRF instruments measure the intensity of the generated gold
X-rays by wavelength dispersion analysis. The use of energy dispersive analyses results
in cheaper instruments but reduced accuracy. Reference alloy standards, of known
composition close to that of the test piece, are needed if accuracy is required in XRF
testing.
There are several instruments appearing on the market developed specifically for
gold jewellery assaying, such as the X-tester, and these are more reasonably priced. A
major retailer in India has equipped each of their stores with such instruments. The gold
content of each piece of jewellery is measured as it is sold, printing off a Certificate,
thereby guaranteeing carat age conformance and providing consumer confidence in a
country where national Hallmarking regulations do not exist.
reference samples and treated with acids. The color of the reacted area is compared to
that of the reference samples. It is not sufficiently accurate (about 15 parts per thousand
at best) and is only useful as a sorting test to differentiate between different carat ages. It
is less accurate at high carat ages and with white gold. A more detailed description of the
technique can also be found in Gold Technology, No. 3, and January 1991.
The density of carat gold’s reduces as carat age is lowered and this gives rise to
density measurement as a possible method of measuring gold content, using Archimedes
principle. However, density is also influenced by the other alloying constituents and so
the accuracy of the method is poor. Jewellery containing defects such as porosity would
further reduce the accuracy of density measurement. It is not recommended.
Summary
For high accuracy, consistent with marking/Hallmarking regulations, only Fire
Assay and ICP Spectrometry are sufficient. These techniques involve taking a physical
samples (a scraping) from the jewellery item.
For sorting jewellery into different carat ages, then the touchstone and electronic
gold pens are suitable cheap, quick techniques.
Electronic Pen Only gold Non-destructive 4-8% Not consistent Low %200
Density Only gold Non-destructive Poor Only for binary alloys Low %
500
1.18.1 Marketing
In most countries, national law requires gold jewellery to be marked with its
caratage or fineness. This is done by physically stamping the jewellery with a punch,
although laser engraving is also finding application. However, the caratage mark is no
guarantee of gold content in some countries where there is no independent system of
‘Hallmarkeing’. In such countries, undercarating is not uncommon! The USA, for
example, has laws that require jewllery, where market, to be marked with both the
caratege and the maker’s mark (for traceability) by the manufacturer or importer but they
are not policed or enforced strongly. Hence undercarating is not uncommon at the lower
end of the market.
1.18.2 Hallmarking
In other countries, there is a legal requirement for all jewellery to be tested
(assayed) by an independent third party. If found to be within tolerance, then the Assay
Office marks the jewellery with a number of marks including the caratage or fineness, the
maker’s mark and the Assay Office mark. This is known as a Hallmark.
Usually, the Assay Office guarantees its mark by law, so the consumer has legal redress
against the Assay Office, if an item is subsequently found to be of substandard assay.
CHAPTER - 2
PROFILE OF SUBRAMANYA JEWELLERS
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Rayakar is house hole name not only in Hairhar. but also in the entire state of
Karnataka for their good business practices, social service, educational institutions,
charitable trusts, temples etc.
The jewellery business of Rayakar family dates back to 1938 in Rayakar which is
in Harihar Taluk, in the name of Prakesh Jewellers by Rayakar
And in 1989 Rayakar family divided then in 1990 started a new show room in
Harihir City with the help of his elders of the family. At that time all the gold and silver
items were manufactures by them self. Their brother continued their own business of
Prakesh jewellery
Prabakar R Rayakar served about said well established firm for more than 18
years. In he though of starting his own business firm and obtained license. Since 1990,
Sri Prabakar R Rayakar, The proprietor, is carrying on the business with the vast
experience in jewellery business. The business is carrying on in a traditional way.
Since 1986, he never looked back every year there is growths in number of
satisfied customers, turnover and also project.
The sales management in the items applied to the process of distributing the
goods from the produce to the ultimate user of consumer. It covers selling advertising
and sales promotion and risk taking.
Sales management is utmost importance in the firms as the profits and customer
satisfaction cannot be ascertained without sales of the product.
Target for sales performance are set and they act as criteria for comparison with
the actual accomplishment. Sales quotas, expense control, personal development
objectives are the casual targets for the purpose of evaluation. It is essential that all
evaluation should be forward – looking and aims at future and improved performance.
As gold, silver and precious stones have higher reselling value the margin of
profit of the seller is limited. Hence, discount allowance has it limitations.
CHAPTER - 3
ORNAMENT PROFILE
Jewellery Made of Natural Materials
In early India, people fashioned jewelry out of natural materials found in
abundance all over the country-seeds, feathers, leaves, berries, fruits, flowers, animal
bones, claws and teeth. Even today such jewelry is used by the different tribal societies.
It appears that both men and women of that time wore jewelry made of gold, silver,
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copper, ivory and precious and semi-precious stones. By the third century B.C. India was
the leading exporter of gemstones, particularly diamonds. Gold was usually imported
into the country.
In India the ornaments are made practically for every part of the body. Such a
variety of ornaments bears the testimony to the excellent skills of the jewelers in India.
The range of jewelry in India varied from religious one to purely aesthetic one. Jewelry
was crafted not just for humans but also for the gods, ecumenical elephants and horses.
The craft of jewelry was given a royal patronge right from the ancient times. The rajas
and maharajas vied with each other to possess the most exquisite and the most
magnificent pieces of jewelry. Temple complexes supported many different styles of
jewelery scented sandalwood bead necklaces the prayer bead or the rudraksh (berry of the
elaocarpus canitrus) necklace, multicolored silk and gold thread necklaces.
Jewelry in India fulfils many functions and wearing it has several implications.
At the most obvious level, it is a form of adornment satisfying man’s innate desire to
beautify himself. However, jewelry also serves as an identity marker, as security, and as
symbol of social contracts. For Hindus, jewellery is associated with most religious
ceremonies; especially the samaskaras (Stages of life) such as the namkarna (naming
ceremony) or the vivaha (marriage). To signify marital status, Hindu women must wear
the mangalustra of the thali, which consist of gold pendants strong in a certain
combination with other beads. Traditionally, a goldsmith pierces a child’s ear with a gold
pin twelve days after it is born.
The mughals were showmen who reveled in the fantasy of ornaments. They
encouraged international participation by borrowing designs and getting their jewelry
fashioned abroad. In fact, documentation of Indian Jewelry exists only from this period
onwards. Enameling, embedding stones in gold and filigree work were some of the
different ways in which gold was embellished further.
Indians who prefer 24 carat gold have a variety of designs to chose from, whether
they are buying necklaces, nose rings, earrings (Four to seven pieces of jewelry can be
worn on the ear alone!) hair clips, waistbands or toe rings.
1. Bangle
2. Ring ornaments
3. Nose ornaments
4. Ear ornaments
5. Finger
6. Pachikam Jewellary
7. Navarathna Ornaments
8. Beads
9. Pearls
10. Dlamonds
11. Meenakari
12. Kundan work
3.2.1. Bangles
This arnament was undoubtedly a purely decorative accessory in the pre-vedic era and
even in the post-Vedic times until the medieval period. Medieval India gave Hinduism a
chauvinistic twist distorting Vedic concepts and introduced ritualistic beliefs. It was at
this stage that the bangle was transformed from a mere decoration to a symbol of
marriage. The bangle thus began to gain social significance and ritualistic relevance.
Hindu married girls always wear some bangles round both their wrists as it is
considered inauspicious to be bare armed. Bare hands are symbolically associated with
widows who have been denied the right to wear bangles or any kind of adornment.
Kushan and Gupta dynasties existed. Similarly, the bronzes of the Apsaras of the 9the
century or the 11th /12th century Uma of the pala period and Parvati show an absence of
this ornament of the nose. Evidence of nose rings and studs appear only in the 15th and
16th centuries.
The most common type of the nose ornament is not a ring, but an ornament in the
form of a stud know as phul. This is worn through a hole in the left nostril and secured
by a screw fitting on the inner side. Its size varies from a small gold ball or diamond to a
flat disc with a highly ornamental surface. Additionally, the stud may have small
attachments like a fringe of hanging chains or small pendants.
Large nose rings are also worn. They may be plain silver or gold hoops or
extravagantly ornamented with enamel, pearls and precious stones. Heavy nose rings are
usually supported by cards of fine chains hooked to the hair or head covering to hold the
ornament flat against the cheek; otherwise their weight would distort the nose. The bulak
from Mandi in Himachal Pradesh, worn by the local Dogra women is one of the largest
loop nose-rings worn in the country. It is decorated with granulation an set with stones
covering a large portion of the cheek and mouth.
The third basic type of nose ornament, usually of gold is pendant hung from a
hole in the central septum. Single rings are most commonly worn but some pendants
may be so large and complex that they hang over the mouth and must be lifted up when
eating. For a person not familiar with the culture of this land, nose ornaments may
probably seem the strangest of all the Indian jewellery.
The forms and size of ear ornaments vary enormously. They can be decorated in
an immense number of ways including embellishments with enamel, stones or pearls.
Almost any type can have additional small decorative chains and hanging miniature
pendants often in the shapes of small leaf, balls or bells. Some earrings are so heavy they
must be supported by a card or chain that passes over the ear or is hooked to the hair.
Other types of unsupported ear ornaments are worn from a hole in the lobe, which as a
result is permanently stretched to an unimaginable degree. The large disc plug of
Gujarati women and the various kinds of heavy earrings worn by the women of Tamil
Nadu are examples of these. Women of some regions have ears pierced with holes of a
diameter that almost amounts to mutilation and then wear enormous pendant earrings
made of gold.
3.2.5 Fingers
Rings for the hands have been found at practically all levels of Indus Valley
civilization. Mohenjodaro excavations have brough forth copper rings with several coils
but no gold and very few silver rings have been discovered.
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Rings, over the ages, have been worn on all the ages, have been worn on all the
fingers including the thumb. They Fulfilled the triple function decorative, talismanic and
signatory. The immumerable forms of metal rings can broadly be divided into those with
and without bezel (the part of the ring meant to hold a decorative decree, stone or seal).
While rings set with personal seals are less common today, the rings sct with stones are
ubiquitous.
The particular stone may be chosen for reasons other than mere appearance.
According to Hindu astrology, each of the nine planets in the Universe is represented by a
specific stone. By wearing the stone associated with one’s planetary sign, it is believed
that the effect can be enhanced or mitigated according to the nature of the planet. A very
popular arrangement of stones called Navaratna (Nine gems) is used in rings and other
ornaments.
In a special category is the larger thumb-ting or arsi with a circular mirror. Other
thumbrings, unequivocally courtly pieces in shape and material were worm from the late
16th to the mid 18th century during the reign of Shah Jahan. They were considered the
finest examples of Mughal jeweled gold. yet another type, now obsolete, is the Archer’s
ring of jade or gold, at times set with gems and embellished with enamel. Its Central
Asian origin accounts for its popularity among high raning men during the mughal
period. To the Romans the ring was the most important item of jewelry. They were the
first to use it as a sign of betrothal.
Today the rings have only fashion value. The traditional significance seems to
have diminished.
For the nose, single stone studs rate high, or the traditional design with a few
diamonds. Lops are on the decrease, unless they are family heirlooms used for weddings
and other ceremonies. For the feet, due to more women wearing closed shoes, the toe
ring in most cases is not worn except by the more orthodox and conventional women.
In the world of fashion and design there is an all round revival of styles of the lost
eras in garments as well as jewelry. One of the most popular revivals in the world of
ornaments is pachchikam jewelry, which dates back to the 18the and 19th centuries in
India.
Little is known of the history of Pachchikam and yet it’s beginning can be traced
to early European designs worn by the nobility in the 16th century. Although it has a
strong ethnic background, on closer observation one notices an affinity to the type of
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jewelry seen in portraits of British dignitaries in India. It was with the exchange of trade
and commerce that the intricacy of the art reached the shores of India. Where Indian
artisans added their style to change it into a work of Indian art.
Ruby: Pink red colored stone, known for its brilliance and rediance. Usually made up of
crystals of six sided prisms. It is highly valued as it is said to represent the sun god
(Surya), who is the master of the universe. This stone signifies power, authority, and
good health, father etc and is said to have a positive effect on the health and destiny of a
person wearing it. Jewelry and ornaments studded with ruby are very costly.
Emerald: Bright green colored stone. It is the representative of plant mercury (Budh) and
affects knowledge and learning. Like ruby, flawless and radiant emeralds are considered
the best. Rajasthan is known for emerald mining. Udaipur and Ajmer are main centers
of emerald mining. Emeralds from Udaipur are dark and hard while the ones from Ajmer
are pale. Emeralds are used in Kundan jewelry and the green colored Meenakari done on
the reverse side of the ornaments often matches their brilliance.
Pearl: A spherical organic material, obtained from oysters. Pearls come in a variety of
shades ranging from white, off white, pink red, brown, creamy etc. In traditional Indian
astrology it holds an important place and is referred to as the queen of the sea and
represents the moon god (Chandra). Pearl is said to have a soothing affect on the person
wearing it and significs purity and dignity. Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu are main
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pearl fishing centers. Traditional necklaces, earrings etc made out of pearls form the
traditional jewelry traditions of Maharashtra and Hyderabad.
Diamond: It is the hardest known material found on earth and the most precious of all
stones. It is graded according to its color, size, hardness and the degree of refraction. The
diamond represents Venus or Sukra and it brings beauty, wealth, and prosperity to the
person wearing it. The state of Gujarat in general and Surat in particular is known for
diamond cutting and polishing worldwide. 8 out of every10 diamonds used in jewelry
worldwide have been cut and polished in India.
Red Coral: Coral is obtained from coral reefs and generally comes in red or vormilion
color. It is made up of organic material from dead minute sea organisms. It represents
planet mars or mangal and controls activity, energy, ambition and dynamism. Red coral
is often worn in necklaces, amulets and rings. The coastal regions of India are known for
arnaments made from red coral.
Zircon: A smoked red or dark honey colored stone. Chemically it 3is a silicate of
ziroconium and crystal and occurs as a four-side prism. It is also known as Gomedha,
which represents Rahu, the ascending node of the moon. In India it is found in Kashmir,
Bihar, Kullu, Shimla and Coimbatore. It is representative of worldly desires and
aspirations, lazincss etc., it is not considered auspicious and is worn to ward the civil
effects of Rahu, which is also known as ‘head of the celestial dragon’.
Blue Sapphire: A navy blue brilliant stone. It is also referred to as Neelam and represents
planet Saturn or Sani. It influences on one hand good things like long life, ambition,
prosperity, leadership, wealth etc and misery, accident, failure, adversity on the other
hand. As the effect of this stone is highly temperamental, it should be worn under proper
guidance of the astrologer. The best and the brightest blue sapphires come from kashmir
and are called ‘mayur neelam’ because of their peacock blue colour.
Yellow sapphire: A yellow or pale white stone. It is also known as pushparaj and
represents planet Jupiter or Guru. It signifies knowledge, philosophy, religion, virtue,
future, distant travel etc. It is said that the person wearing yellow sapphire is bound to
have a increase in his mental and intellectual abilities.
Cat’s Eye: It is yellow or black colored stone with shining band, which is similar to the
eye of a cat. It also known as sutramani and vaidurya. Cat’s eye represents ketu or ‘tail
of the celestial dragon’, the descending node of the moon god (Chandra). Its influences
are similar to those of mars or mangal and include ascetism, liberation, enlightenment,
non-attachment etc. In India this gem is found in Tiruvananthapuram in Kerala.
3.2.8. Beads
The craft of making beads from different material is ancient and a large number of
beads have been found from various sitcs belonging to the Indus vallcy civilization. The
craftsmen of this civilization made beads out of wood, gold, silver, copper, clay and
ivory. The discovery of a hard of finished and semi-finished beads from various sites,
ivory. The discovery of a hoard of finished and semi-finished beads from various sites,
during excavations, reveal that bead making was a popular form of industry at the time.
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The mughal rulers were great patrons of jewelry making. Bead necklaces of all
sizes and shapes, made up of precious and semi-precious stones were a commonplace
during the Mughal era.
Bead making got an impetus during the arrival of the Europeans to India, who
demanded large amounts of transparent and semi-transparent beads. The british took
beads made of semi precious stones from India during the 19th Century.
The contemporary bead making craft tradition of India is vast and varied:
Beads are not only used for making necklaces and amulets etc but are also used in
embroidery. The process of making beads is simple but time consuming. The material
out of which beads are to be made is firstly chiseled to obtain a desired shape and size.
Then a hole is drilled into the material, so that a string passes through it, to facilitate
stringing of a number of beads together. However beads made from glass are created
during the process of glass blowing itself.
India has the largest production base for glass beads. Banaras is the main center
for the production of glass beads and is known for beads made from fused glass rods,
while purdilput is famous for its black glass beads. Beads from banaras are exported in
large quantities.
Mathura is also popular for its production of lovely galss and wooden beads,
which are strong together in various combinations in Rudraksh necklaces (Necklaces
used in ceremonies to praise Lord Shiva, made with a type of bried seeds). Ferozad
produces fragile and lightweight glass beads.
Indian craftsmen have known the making of silver beads since ancient times.
Karnal is known for hollow beads made out of silver. These days beads made out
sterling silver is gaining popularity.
Mizoram is known for necklaces and amulets made out of amber beads. The
beads used are quiet thick and heavy.
Fancy glass beads, colored glass beads and crafted metal beads are now becoming
a part of the jewelry worn by urban women in India. Beads made from semi-precious
stones continue to be popular in India. Beads come in an assortment of shapes and colors
and at times they are carved also.
3.2.9. Pearls
Humans have known pearls since ancient times. Indian astrology or Jyotish refers
to it as the ‘Queen of the sea’. Pearls are not only associated with wealth but are
symbolic or purity and dignity. Hindu mythology associates them with the moon god
(chandra) and a number of mythological animals like snake, elephant and hog. Though
the pearl is not a mineral, it is still considered as a maharatra or important gem amongst
the traditional Navaratna A number of myths are associated with the origin of pearls.
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Oysters produce nears. The process of nearl formation starts when an irritating particle
enters the oyster. The particle gets stock within the oyster and cannot be removed.
Unable to expel this particle. The oyster deposits extremely thin concentric layers of
calcium carbonate and meore. This deposit continues and between three to seven years a
pearl is formed. pearls come in different colors and sizes. They are white or black, with
tinges of yellow, red, pink, blue, brown and green. The most precious are the rosy pearls
form the persian gulf.p
There are three types of pearls-Natural cultured and semi-cultured pearls. Natural
pearls are the ones, which are formed in the oyster naturally. These pearls do not have a
perfect shape. Cultured pearls are produced with human intervention when the irritating
substance is manually placed into an byster. Natural and cultured pearls are mainly used
in jewelry. Semi-cultured pearls are the ones, which are made artificially, using material
like glass and plastic. These are better known as mother of pearls. Till 1908 only
natural pearls were used. The techniques of producing cultured pearls was created and
perfected in Japan and is still used.
Indian pearls come mainly from Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. Hyderabad
laid the foundation of pearl jewelry in the 19th century. Processing and grading of pearls
lays the foundation for making high quality ornaments and hyderabad specializes in it.
Hyderabed is the home of highly talented craftsmen, who manually grade and process
each pearl as; they are fragile and cannot be processed by machines.
The process of creating pearl jewelry begins with drilling a hole in the pearl
(vertical or horizontal) with a needle, which requires a high degree of perfection. People
from Chandampet, a village near Hyderabad have been doing this since generations.
Then the pearls are grouped according to their color. Pearls having pink, cream or gray
color are set aside while those having muddy color are treated with hydrogen peroxide.
The final step involves grading of pearls according to color, size, shape etc and about 100
varieties obtained. Finally, pearls are strung together by skilled knitters or patwas, using
silk or gold strings.
Hyderabad is the largest center for pearl trading in the world and sells about 40-50
thousand kilograms of pearls per year. Pearl necklaces in a variety of designs are
produced here. Typical designs being Satlada (seven standards of pearls set with
emeralds, diamonds and rubies, Kundan Ranihar (pearl sets with enamel kundan work).
The traditional Marathi jewelry is made up of pearls. Kudi a special earring worn
by the womenfolk is studded with pearls. So is the Nath or the nose ring, which is most
popular ornament from Maharashtra. It is a gold pin capped with a single pearl or gold
bead. A variety of pearl bangles, rings, necklaces etc are also made.
Pearl necklaces, earrings, bangles, broach, pendants, rings, nose pins and many
other ornaments produced in large quantity with a variety of designs, created in India are
famous world over.
3.2.10 Diamonds
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It is often said that ‘diamonds are for ever’ and ‘diamonds are a woman’s best
friend’. The above-mentioned statements coupled with the facts that numerous was were
fought for possession of diamonds, have made diamonds the most sought after precious
stone in the world, since ancient times. Diamond is the hardest known natural substance.
It is made up crystallized carbon. Diamonds are created through a process of
metamorphosis where intense heat and pressure within the depth of the earth’s crust
transform amorphous carbon into a solid mass of hard crystal and come to the surface via
Volcanoes.
Most diamonds are found in Kimberlite, which is volcanic rock. Diamonds are
not only used in jewelry making but for industrial purpose also. 80% of world’s
diamonds are not suitable for jewelry making.
Diamonds are graded and priced according to their carat, color, clarity and cut.
Carat is the standard weight for measuring diamonds. 1 Carat is equal to: 200 miligrams
or 1/5 gram or 100 points. However the size of a cut diamond does not have a hearing on
its price as the price is determined by unit price per carat i.e. a big cut diamond with a
low unit price per carat can be cheaper than a small diamond having a high unit price per
carat. The more colorless or transparent the color of a diamond is the costlier it becomes.
Clarity or flawlessness also determines the price of a piece of diamond. The cut of a
diamond depends on the craftsman. A diamond cutter determines the type of cut to be
applied, after seeing a rough stone. Cut refers to not nly the shape of the diamonds, but its
proportions and finish, factors, which determine the sparkle of the diamond. It is up to
the craftsman to enhance the beauty of the rough stone and it the final product, which is
evaluating for pricing.
The best diamonds in the world are mined in south Africa, Brazil and Namibia.
Cutting and polishing of diamonds is big business and India leads the world in this field.
8 out of every 10 diamonds used in jeweler worldwide have been cut and polished in
India. Surat is the nerve center of diamond cutting and polishing industry in India. There
is a rage for diamond jewelry these days, as diamond jewelry has become status symbol.
The coming of foreign players in the domestic jewelry market has not only increased
variety in quality and design, but also made it somewhat affordable for the common
masses to be lured by the radiance and sparkle of diamonds.
3.2.11 Meenakari
Enameling is the art of colorings or decorating a metal surface by attaching or
fusing pieces of different mineral substances, over it. Enameling is considered the most
alluring and technical of all metal decorations. In the past enameling was only done on
gold, but presently it is done other metals like silver, copper etc.
The art of Meenakari requires a high degree of skill and application. The piece
of metal on which meenakari is to be done is fixed on a lac stick. Delicate designs of
flowers, birds fish etc are etched or engraved on it. This leads to the creation of walls or
grooves, to hold color. Enamel dust of required color is then poured into the grooves and
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each color is fired individually. The heat of the furnace melts the color and the colored
liquid gets spread equally into the groove. This process is repeated with each colour.
As each color is individually fired, colors, which are most heat resistant, are
applied first, as they are re-fired with each additional color. As a rule, white is the first
color applied and red the last.
After the last color has been fired, the object is cooled and burnished or polished
with agate. The depth of the grooves filled with different colors determines the play of
light.
Both silver and Gold can be used as a base for meenakari. A limited number of
colors, like gold, blue, green and yellow, stick to silver, whereas all available colors can
be applied to gold, making it the preferred medium of enamcllers. The mccnakar often
work with a term of craftsmen. As meenakari is generally done on the reverse side of
kundan jewellery, the meenakar has to work with the goldsmith, the engraver or ghaaria,
the designer or chitteria and jadiya who applies the gems on the kundan or gold. The
finished produced is a marvel of the expertise of these different craftsmen and their
techniques. Jaipur is the main center of meenakari. Traditional Mughai colors like red,
greed and white, dominate the art of enameling from Jaipur. The rich, ruby red color
used here is highly sought after. Nathdwara, Bikaner and Udaipur are also famour for
their silver meenakari. Pratapgarh is known for glass enameling.
Kundan work is essentially Indian and it was brought to Rajastahan from Delhi
during the Mughal period. Craftsmen from all over the country came to Jaipur, Bikaner,
Udaipur and Jodhpur, under the patronage of royal houses. Numerous royal houses from
Rajasthan encouraged and patronized craftsmen to create exquisite kundan work on silver
and gold.
The entire technique of Kundankari lies in the skillful setting of gems and stones
in gold, which is rarely solid. The core of the ornament is made out of lac a natural resin.
The pieces, which make up the finished ornament are first shaped by specialized
craftsmen and left in separate hollow halves. Holes are cut for the gems, any engraving is
carried out, and the pieces are enameled.
Later lac is inserted into the hollow parts and is then visible from the front
through the holes left for the gems. Highly refined gold or kundan is used to cover the
lac and gems are then pushed into the kundan. To increase the strength of the joints and
to give it a smooth finish more kundan is applied.
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Traditional kundan jewellery has stones encrusted on one side and colorful and
intricate meenakari on the reverse. The beauty of kundan work lies in the precise setting
of stones into kundan and the overall look of the ornament.
Intricately designed carrings, necklaccs and pendants of all shapes and sizes are
made with kundan work.
Jaipur is the main center of kundan work. The famous Johri Bazaar is the nerve
center of this craft. Nathdwara is known for its silver kundan work. Bikaner is also
known for its kundan work.
Precious stones not only adorned the items associated with royalty, but along with
gold they were considered valuable gifts. Ancient rulers used to exchange gifts in the
form of gems and semi-precious stones. Wars were often fought to seize gems and
stones, which formed an important part of the booth extracted from the defeated rules.
In India people for astrological reasons have used gems as it is considered that
various planets influence them, which in turn influence human life cycle and human
destiny. Gems are also used in preparation of some ayurvedic medicines.
Hindu mythology has classified gems into three groups: gems belonging to
heaven (Swarg lok), gems belonging to earth (Mrityu lok) and gems belonging to hell
(Patal lok).
The gems belonging to heaven are worn by gods. The four important gems
belonging to Swarg lok are:
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Nearly 10% of the female population and 6% of the male population core estimated to be
allergic to jewellery. But it isn’t the gold. Silver or platinum used in jewellery that
causes the allergy. It’s the nickel is added to gold to give it greater tensile strength and
the malleability necessary for creating ornaments.
The rise in body piercing amongst youngsters is another contributing factor. The fact that
piercing is not just restricted to the ear’s, nose but has moved on the eyebrows. Chin,
Slips and Even the tonque makes the matter even more complicated.
The rise in body piercing amongst youngsters is another contributing factor. The fact that
piercing is not just restricted to the ear’s, nose but has moved on the eyebrows. Chin,
Slips and Even the tonque makes the matter even more complicated.
Besides, nickel is one of the most common elements in the environment and its is actually
impossible to avoid contact with it in everyday life Nickel is found not only in jewellery
but in several times used regularly such as catches, Zippest, Spectacle frames, hairctesps
and buttons. And is you think you are safe with money, then think again. Money can
give you dermatitis as silver loins are composed of cupro-nickel.
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Sadly, it is not just nickel, which can cause you to contract dermatitis chromium is
another culprit. “Allergy to nickel is common knowledge but the use of chromium
instead of nickel might also produce an allergy reaction, “Say Dr. Rajendra S.C.,
Director, National Skin and hour care centre. “Allergy to noble metals like gold, silver
and platinum is not common and actual allergy to gold is extremely rare”, he added.
The allergy itself may be a temporary condition and medicines can decrease the intensity
of the allergy. “There are several medicines which can control it and reduce its severity
but unfortunately there is no permanent were for it, “Dr. Rajendran added which means
that once an allergic reaction sets in, it remains with you for a lifetime.
It is not all gloom for those sensitive to jewellery. For those of us with sensitive skin, a
patch test is in order. A standard patch test includes nickel, which is a common test to
determine one’s sensitivity to nickel present in jewellery and other object.
Few women can avoid jewellery altogether but one can make every efforts to reduce
contact with nickel. For the sensitive a shift from 14k to 18k gold jewellery will result in
a marked improvement. These days other metals are finding their way into the jewellery
business titanium and niobium are fast gaining a reputation for safety.
On the other hand, if you are unfortunate enough to be allergic to the standard jewellery
available, you could take it as an opportunity to be different. Try jewellery made from
terracotta, shells, wood, plastic, quills flower or anything else that takes your fancy.
Designs vary from state to state and, indeed, from jeweller to jeweller. Nowdays,
you even see trendy westernised styles such as baby shoe pendants, earring and rings
with little cupids, teddy-bears and dolls and mobile. Whatever the design, the key
element kept in the mind when designing for babies, is that the piece should be 100%
safe. No rough edges or heavy pieces – the jewellery is invariably smooth, simple and
lightweight.
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And what happens when the baby outgrows his or her jewellery? No problem.
Bracelets and bangles are often adjustable and “grow” with the baby or they can be worn
as earrings. Waist chains can be converted into chains.
CHAPTER - 4
GOLDSMITHS OF Harihar
4.1 Introduction and Definition
The glitters and beauty of gold ornament hide the skillful hand behind the work.
They are most neglected workers too, in the eyes of government. The single largest
consumer of gold and diamonds ornaments believed to be India. The country has the
largest reservoir of one million trained craftsmen who are experts in evolving designs.
Consider, the goldsmith sitting in a small dark room, infront of him is an ordinary huge
earthware waterpot – his furnace. That small cup of clay and other traditional tools
serves as his curable. Yet, consider the masterpieces he creates with these simple tools
and his individual genius. His special skill lies in giving extraordinary beauty and grace
to plain gold Jewellary, enameling and creating Jewellery studded with precious and semi
precious stones.
Harihar one of the most important commercial city in the state. In Harihar people are
engaged in business, banking, hotels, factories, house building etc., ornament making is
also one of important business in the area. There is more than 3000 craftsmen in and
around the city most of them are working for the Jewellery shop and others are investing
their own capital they make ornaments and sells to the Jewellery shops. There are more
than 20-45 Jewellery shops and works in the city.
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CHAPTER - 5
PRICING STRATEGY
5.1. Meaning of Price
Modern economy is a money economy. In a money economy, the value of each
commodity or service is expressed in terms of money. When value is expressed in terms
of money, it becomes price. Therefore, price is nothing but value expressed in terms of
money price represents the money value of goods it indicates the amount of money that
we have to pay for good in the market.
Pricing decision has strategic importance in any enterprise. Pricing governs the
very feasibility of any marketing programme because it is the only element in a
marketing mix accounting for demand and sales revenue. Other elements are cost
factors. Price is the only variable factor determining the revenue or income.
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Thus, even in those days. It did make a some economic sense to invest in gold,
not only for one’s own security, but also as a part of the dowry so that the bridal – girl
could fall back upon it in times of emergency and need. In fact, most of the grandmsa
today, find their gold received as dowry as great asset to meet the present social
commitments of their children and grand – children.
Today, the scenario is somewhat different, and there is a need to examine it from
various angles before making an investment in gold.
The investment in shares was kind of speculation that god bracketed with
gambling and was not considered as a decent option. The real estate was indulged into
purely as a necessity to own a home, and not to buy are and sell it at premium. So, it left
more people with only one investment option, and that was in gold.
With the onset of a boom in the high-tech consumerism, there has been a market
shift in the common man’s priorities and preferences. A car, TV, VCR, Fridge, washing
machine etc. Are no more considered luxuries, but have become a part of daily living.
As such a common man has been weaned away from this craze for gold to a certain even.
Price Spiral
Although, as against the paper currency, the investment in gold still offer a stabler
deal, yet the price of gold having more or less spiraled doesn’t attract the common man to
the same extent, and he rather prefers to stake his money in “real estate”, shares and other
speculative avenues which offer better returns. In any case, often meeting his essential
needs, he is left with little liquid cash to play around with. An era of deficit financially
on the home front is very much the order of the day.
India is the biggest consumer of gold in the world. Its craze fro gold is going on
increasing no way what’s the price prevailing the middle class people are the most
consumer of gold compare to upper class people. Now in market the price of the gold in
around 8700 (22 karat) per 10 grams that is fluctuate daily, there is varieties of 10 to 50
rupees daily. The Mumbai Bullion Market gold rate is quoted in the Davangere
Jewellery shops.
The gold prices fluctuates daily therefore, the price what prevails today may not
be prevail tomorrow. In India, gold prices are calculated on the basis of the international
price, the premium of the Special Import License (SPL) and the rupee-dollar purity “in
the current scenario, domestic gold prices are moving due to the international price
fluctuation”.
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5. Govt. Policy: The govt. Policy also some time affect the gold price. Recently, central
government allow some banks and agencies to import and sell gold, thus it liberalize the
gold market. On the beginning of the every Year govt. increase the custom duty from
250 rupees to 400 per 10 gram on gold import. This will cause in price hike and gold
smuggling.
Marketing have recognised the importance of perception, learning and attitudes creating
psychological relations to price, at least in consumer goods. The social and
psychological factors must be recognised in the evaluation of pricing strategies. The
social and psychological influences are responsible to support. The consumers
inclination to price as an indicator or quality for certain products, e.g., cosmetics,
Jewellery and clothing.
Generally cost considered by the jewelers in fixing the price of gold ornaments as
follows.
A. Gold price: the gold price is the one of the important factor to fixing price of gold
ornaments. As a gold is an important/ major raw material used in making of gold
ornament. When customer gives raw material used in making of gold ornament. When
customer gives the order for making gold ornaments the jeweler take into consider the
rate of gold price prevailing on the day in the bullion market.
B. Wastage: in the process of making ornament the worker melt the gold and give it
to the machine work and lastly to design cutting works in this process the negligible part
of the gold is evaporate or miss or wasted it is called as ‘Wastage’. It is charged to the
price of gold ornament by the jeweler.
C. Labour charge: the charge incurred by the worker to making of the ornament is
changed as a labour charge and added to the price in the basis of work, hardness of work,
design and weight.
D. Store pearls and diamonds: If any of the gems and diamonds are studded in the
ornament. Their rates are separately calculated and add to the net price.
E. There is an profit margin for every ornament depending on the design and quality
of the ornament and prestige of the shop and its popularity. It may varied from one step
to other. The profit margin is not disclosed due to the secrecy maintained by the jeweler
as a part of the marketing strategy adopted by them.
Gold ornament = Gold price + Wastage + Labour Charge + Any other Cost.
The cost mentioned above may be change from shop to shop based on their
adoption of pricing strategy.
7.3 Conclusion
Here comes the concluding part of this project. The problems already studied in
the earlier chapters and they are not so serious nature and they can be over come by
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adopting or following the suggestion. In this project attempt has been made to
understand the consumer behaviour towards Gold Ornaments. The information provided
by the respondent believed to be accurate. As the “customer is the king” in the market,
suggestion given by him should be stressed more to provide him the best.
Modernization brings changes in almost all fields even the changes in customs,
culture, and ideology in human beings due to the passage of time. But the craze for gold
is not declined it is going on increasing. So there is good demand in future for the
ornaments, adoption of new technology, new design is necessary, even though there is
substitute for gold ornaments in the market i.e., silver ornaments, Rold gold ornaments.
But the gold is ‘Gold’.
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