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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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I. PURPOSE OF GUIDE LS - 1
I. Purpose of Guide
Buttons
All buttons must meet the following minimum performance requirements:
Machine
Vendor must clean button attachment machines on a daily basis to avoid any fluff,
which could snag the thread and cause missing stitches/passes.
Bobbin
Vendor must clean bobbin area on machine to remove fluff and dirt twice a day (4
hourly) :
• During lunch break
• Before a shift change or before a worker finishes work for the day
Needle Size
The correct needle size must be used. Needle size prefer #11 to #16 is the best for
button attachment.
Needle size selection is also a key point to note and in recommending a particular
needle size to be used, the vendor need to take into consideration the garment
construction, fabrication, and number of ply being used to apply to the garment.
Condition of Needle
A faulty needle is one of the primary causes of button attachment defects. A faulty
needle must be replaced before production can be allowed to continue. Examples
of faulty needles are:
a) No bent needle
b) No tipped needle
Thread Tension
Thread tension must be adjusted in a right position.
a) not too loosen
b) not too tighten
Thread tension must be properly adjusted as it may cause missing stitches (i.e. 2
holes instead of 4 holes).
Button Attachment
• All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch buttoning machine.
• Button must in a complete stitch pattern.
• 100% check of complete stitch pattern for baby and kids.
• Only polyester or polyester/cotton wrap threads are to be used. 100% cotton
thread should be used for current dye programs only, when buttons are
attached prior to dyeing.
• All buttons must withstand a direct pull force of 17 lbs. for 10 seconds.
• Lockstitch buttoning characterized by 2 “Rabbit Ears” and Knot on back
side, prefer 1/4” thread length and must not be trimmed off.
• Button attachment must be attached with a minimum of 16 passes.
• When a bobbin case is refilled with thread, perform the first (1st) button
attachment on a piece of interlining before going into actual production.
• When the bobbin thread in the bobbin case is depleted, the last button sewn
from the depleted bobbin must always be removed from the garment.
3. The needle often A) The needle hits against • Adjust the position of the button clamp jaw
breaks the button in the area levers so that the needle enters the center of
around the holes. the holes in the button.
4. The finished state A) The needle thread • Increase the tension of the tension
of the stitches sewn remaining on the needle controller (thread discs).
on the underside of is too long.
the material is
extremely poor. B) The wiper clamps the • Adjust the timing to release the tension disc
thread with an excessive of the tension controller.
clamping force.
3. The button is not A) The button clamp jaw • Adjust so that the button clamp jaw levers
attached on the levers do not securely securely clamp the button.
predetermined clamp the button.
position on the
garments. B) The pressure of the leaf • Correct the leaf spring of the button clamp
spring of the button jaw levers so that the spring pressure is
clamp jaw levers is decreased.
excessive.
C) When using a button with • Replace the button clamp jaw levers with
round sole, the thread those with a thicker plate.
enters the section
between the sole of the
button and the surface of
the boss of the needle
hole guide. As a result,
the button fails to be
smoothly moved
during sewing.
1) BROTHER
* Please take note for model without an ‘E’ behind the number, is a
Mechanism lockstitch button sewer machine (model # LK3-B438).
b) Model # LK - B448E/BA-16
– B448E with a ‘E/BA-16’, is an electronic lockstitch button
sewer with auto button feeder machine.
– It can be used for attaching buttons with 2, 3 and 4 holes, and
has 22 different types of built in programs available.
– The adoption of Brother’s unique back tack sewing method
ensures that the thread will not unravel.
– A double-check function for button feeding prevents sewing
operations from continuing when no button has been set.
2) JUKI
a) Model # LK-1903SS
- 1903SS, is an electronic lockstitch button sewer machine.
- It prevents thread fray from the end of sewing.
- The machine provided as standard with 33 kinds of patterns and
the pattern can be changed over by one-touch simple operation.
Juki Corporation
Japan
Juki Corporation International Sales Division
8-2-1, Kokuryo-Cho, Chofu-Shi
Tokyo 182, Japan
Tel: 03(3430) 4001-5
Fax: 03(3430) 4909-4914-4984
Hong Kong
Juki (Hong Kong) Ltd.
Units 1901 & 1911 - 12
Level 19, Metroplaza Tower II
223 Hing Fong Road
Kwai Fong, N.T., Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 24237888, 24238608, 24237906 (Parts)
Fax: 24237121, 24237151 (Parts)
Singapore
Juki (Singapore) Pte Ltd.
159 Sin Ming Road
#07-02 Amtech Building,
Singapore 575625
Tel: 5534388
Fax: 5525565
Japan
Brother International Corporation
15-1, Naeshiro-cho, Mizuho-ku,
Nagoya 467-8561
Telephone: 81-52-824-3393
Facsimile: 81-52-824-3390
Hong Kong
Brother Corporation (Asia) Ltd
Suite 1103,
Chinachem Golden Plaza 77 Mody Road,
Tsimahatsui East,
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Telephone: 852-2723-4198
Facsimile: 852-2723-1776
Singapore
Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd
No. 1 Phillip Street #06-00
Lippo Centre,
Singapore 048692
Telephone: 65-538-0311
Facsimile: 65-538-7003, 1020
Generated by
When
Why
Procedure
• Please refer to the button attachment statistical process
control procedure for more details.
Generated by
When
Apply 100% check every two hours per day per order.
Why
Generated by
When
Why
The purposes are to ensure all the buttons are security attached
on the garments, as to avoid missing stitch and caused button
falling off. Additional it is a control measure in helping the
factory management to track running production.
Procedure
• Please refer to the button attachment statistical process
control procedure for more details.
PRE-PRODUCTION SETTING - apply 10 buttons per style to a mock / faux seam which is same construction as the
production
Maintain 20 lbs. for 10 seconds before Maintain 17 lbs. for 10 seconds after
Sample washed Sample washed Remarks
Pass Fail Type of Failure Pass Fail Type of Failure
1 1
2 2
3 3
4 4
5 5
Maintain 20 lbs. for 10 seconds before Maintain 17 lbs. for 10 seconds after
Sample washed Sample washed Remarks
Pass Fail Type of Failure Pass Fail Type of Failure
1 X 1 X
2 X 2 X
4 X 4 X
Production Control - apply 100 % check every two hour. The initial refilled and the ending of each bobbin thread, button must sewn on Interlining.
The initial
refilled & ending
Time Complete 2 "Rabbit Ear" Complete Stitch Pattern (Cross or Parallel stitches)
of bobbin thread
record
Output TTL Defective Action Taken Output TTL Defective Action Taken Nos. Of Button
Production Control - apply 100 % check every two hour. The initial refilled and the ending of each bobbin thread, button must sewn on Interlining.
The initial
refilled & ending
Time Complete 2 "Rabbit Ear" Complete Stitch Pattern (Cross or Parallel stitches)
of bobbin thread
record
Output TTL Defective Action Taken Output TTL Defective Action Taken Nos. Of Button
10.30 AM 200 1- Knot on backside too Adjust bobbin thread 200 1-Missing stitches, due Check bobbin case
Operator : Date :
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached
for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: Time: Time: Time:
9 10 11 12
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached
for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: Time: Time: Time:
9 10 11 12