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A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the
wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount
of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before
carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is
measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to
install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost
creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.
Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost
about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept
to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost
controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will
probably be good enough.
A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32
GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi.
R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of
modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.
No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be
disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout
the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety
precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark
plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to
consider the next upgrade.
A better but more expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which replaces the
standard ECU. Many people choose the Power FC as its less expensive than other
aftermarket ECU's, and it plugs straight into you old loom so there is no need to cut
any wires. All parameters of your car can be tuned with a Power FC but once again it
should be dyno tuned by a professional. Please note the power FC cannot be used an
automatic transmission.
Conclusion
This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T. Basically
at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and fuel systems but in terms
of car modification this level of tuning is offers great value for money. Many people
with these modifications with and a well sorted suspension and tyre packages have
12 run second quarter mile passes.
Stage 2 of tuning is where things start to get expensive as we need to upgrade many
of the standard systems. Nissan Skyline RB engines are known for the strength the
RB25 is no exception with regular maintenance and a safe tune 270rwkw is easily
possible. Some people push the limits with 300rwkw+ but if you want an engine that
will last 270rwkw is a safer limit.
Turbo Selection
There are many good turbo options available but I recommend a turbo that will bolt
onto standard manifold this will save time and money in the long run. Many people in
Australia have had there standard Nissan Skyline turbo high-flowed by GCG turbo’s
these turbos are popular because they use a ball bearing cartridge, and everything
bolts back into place. Turbo response is said to be similar to stock and power figures
average around 230rwkw or up to 250rwkw with cams. Some people have used
larger exhaust housings from the R34 GTT or the old single turbo 300zx and have
achieved 270rwkw+.
HKS in Japan have a range of turbo's for the R33 that come with all the parts needed
to bolt on. Suitable Nissan Skyline kits available from HKS at the moment include the
HKS GT-RS known to make 280rwkw and the HKS PRO-S known to make around
300rwkw the GTRS is cheaper and a little more responsive than the PRO-S. Another
popular choice since superseded by newer models was the 2535 which is similar to
the GT-RS.
Fuel system
If you haven’t done so already the fuel pump will need to be upgraded. Second hand
GTR pumps are a popular option as are new pumps from bosch, walbro, and tomei.
The GTR and Tomei pumps are a direct fit. You may also install a fuel pressure
regulator to increase fuel pressure.
Standard injectors will also need to be upgraded at this stage. You can either have
your standard injectors high-flowed, or buy after market ones from Nismo or
Performance company's. I recommend you use injectors that are a direct
replacement and don’t require any modifications s to fit. The JDM spec S15 Silvia
injectors are also a popular choice as they flow more and fit without modification.
Airflow meter
To improve the tunability of the engine its a good idea to upgrade your airflow meter
this allows for finer tuning which will result in smoother power delivery and make it
easier for the tuner to produce a higher peak power output . Popular upgrade choices
include the Z32 and the Q45. The Z32 is cheaper of the 2 but the Q45 will allow
more airflow. click for more information
ECU
If you have not done so already the ECU will need to be upgraded even with a SAFC
or similar the stock ECU will not do the job. As stated before the Power FC is a
popular option due to its price, ease of installation, and use. There are plenty of
other options that are superior to the Power FC and allow many other tuning
functions like launch control, and the ability to use a map sensor instead of the
airflow meter. But the FC is still a popular and is proven to perform.
Head Gasket
Running boost levels above 1.2 may require a new metal head gasket to lower
compression and improve reliability. Opinions differ on this subject so I think its best
to ask you tuner.