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Wirote Sarakarnkosol
PES/CEL
Relative ease of processing Versatility of application, leading to a wide range of dyed and finished effects Polyester/cellulosic yarns are used in sewing threads and slub effects for apparel. Woven staple 67:33 polyester/cotton (T/C) and 50:50 polyester/viscose (CVS) blends in numerous constructions form the wellestablished
Scouring
Avoid alkali hydrolysis with NaOH; Na2CO3 should be used.
Singeing
Avoid molten bead of PES (for exhaustion process, it has higher depth) Gas singeing is prefer than Plate singeing
Mercerizing
Concentrate NaOH can not damage PES at room temperature
Heat setting
Temperature should not exceed until CEL part is yellowing
Bleaching
H2O2 and NaClO2 is the suitable bleaching agent
Polyester
14
Cellulose
REDOX ABSENT REDOX PRESENT
Near neutral Neutral - Alkali Temp 80-100oC
Temp 30-130oC
pH
Temp
Ionic strength
AfterTreatment
Alkali
Normal
Electrolyte
COTTON
COTTON
COTTON
How to solve !
Careful dye selection to avoid dyes prone to thermomigration Adequate thermofixation conditions to ensure optimum penetration of the polyester fibres Thorough post-clearing to minimise residual staining of the cellulosic fibres Lowering the curing temperature in subsequent resin finishing Minimal application of softeners and antistatic agents at the finishing stage
Disperse dyes and disazo multisulphonated direct dyes at pH 6 Disperse dyes and reactant-fixable dyes with copper-specific sequesterant Disperse dyes and nicotinotriazine reactive dyes at 130C
Disperse dyes at 130C, then low-reactivity dyes at 8095C Disperse dyes at 130C, then selected vat dyes at 2060C High-reactivity dyes (VS or FP) at low temperature, then disperse dyes at 130C
min
Fixing Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6 Disulphonate dyes Salt
G
G 26
Bk 22 Bk 112 R 83
Bl 200 Bl 71 B 199
Fixing Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6 Disulphonate dyes Copper-specific sequesterant (Plexophor SFI) Salt
The trifunctional type (40oC x 15 min and then alkali 30 40 min): Indosol EF
Forms covalent bonds with cellulose Confers a higher degree of fastness to washing at 60oC even with deep shades
The tetrafunctional reactant resins (Pad Dry Cure 175 180oC) : Indosol CR
Confer the highest fastness, even to washing at the boil. Applied with an N-methylol reactant such as DMDHEU and an acidliberating catalyst e.g. magnesium chloride to give a commercial product sold as a cationic reactant resin. Not only excellent wet fastness but also improved crease resistance and good dimensional stability.
Rinse Soaping
Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 6 - 7 Nicotinotriazine reactive dyes Salt
Substituent X Cl Procion Red H-E3B (Dystar) Kayacelon React Red CN-3B (KYK)
Rinse Soaping Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5 Reactive dyes Salt
Bifunctional
Bis(aminochlorotriazine) Procion H-E (Dystar)
Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5 Vat dyes
40-60C Adjust pH to 4.0-5.5 Alkali 30-60 min Disperse dyes Reactive dyes Salt Rinse Soaping
Paddrythermofixpadsteam High-energy disperse dyes and selected vat dyes Paddrythermofix-jig develop High-energy disperse dyes and selected vat dyes
Disperse dyes High reactivity reactive dye Migration inhibitor Reduction inhibitor Hygroscopic agent (Urea?) Wetting agent Sodium bicarbonate or sodium formate
Disadvantage of urea
> 135oC
Disperse dyes Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye Dicyandiamide Migration inhibitor Reduction inhibitor Hygroscopic agent Wetting agent
Disperse dyes Reactive dye Migration inhibitor Reduction inhibitor Wetting agent
180 220oC with variation of time Caustic soda Hydros Common salt Disperse dyes Vat dye Migration inhibitor Wetting agent
Oxidise Soaping
Hard segment
Soft segment
Hard segment
Soft segment
Hard segment
Hard segment: For recovery, dimension stability and elastic of elastane Soft segment : For flexibility, stretching and elongation of elastane
Useful condition Above Tg : dye can migrate Under Tg : dye can be locked Tg = Glass transition temperature
Conclusion :
Polyester/Cellulose blends can be dyed with disperse dyes and other dyes for another blends with suitable dye class and dyeing condition for balancing the essential parameter to highest fastness and reproducibility Polyester/Elastane blends provide the lower fastness than those of original polyester, thus disperse dyes which use for dyeing blends must be selected for highest fastness and reproducibility