soups and stocks

How to Make Brown Stock

place cubes in a large resealable storage bag. Glace de viande can be frozen up
to 3 months (there is no need to thaw before using).

french onion soup

Serves 8

One of the best reasons to make your own basic brown stock is that it means
French onion soup from scratch is within easy reach. (You can also make the soup
with white beef stock, page 42.) Like many other bistro classics, French onion
soup has humble origins as a staple of thrifty households, where a pot of stock
itself born of frugalitywas the foundation for many family meals. Even those
with limited resources could make soupe a loignon since it calls for little else:
pounds of inexpensive and readily available onions, a crusty baguette (providing
a way to use up day-old bread), and a chunk of sharp Gruyre cheese, grated to turn
a little into a lot. Because there are so few components, each one is enhanced
in some way to contribute to the final dish. The homemade stock provides both
color and robust taste, as well as ensuring a silky consistency. Caramelizing the
onions gives them a wonderful sweetness (and more dark brown color). Toasted
bread adds a textural note, while gratined cheese introduces another pleasing
component. Similar to the burnt-sugar shell atop crme brle, the molten,
golden crown invites tucking into with a spoon. This recipe can be halved, but
since the soup freezes well, it is worth making the full amount.
For caramelizing onions

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 pounds onions, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into -inch-thick slices
1 teaspoon sugar
For soup

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

7 cups basic brown stock (page 50) or white beef stock (page 42)
3 tablespoons cognac
cup dry white wine
coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
For croutons

baguette, cut into 16 rounds ( inch thick)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

6 ounces gruyre cheese, grated on the large holes of a box grater (4 cups)

Caramelize onions Melt the butter in a medium Dutch oven or stockpot over

medium-high heat. Add onions and sprinkle with sugar. (The pot will be quite
full but the onions will cook down significantly.) Cook, stirring only occasionally
to prevent sticking, until onions are translucent, about 15 minutes. Reduce
heat to medium and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until onions have
turned deep brown, 30 to 45 minutes more. (If the onions are sticking to the
bottom of the pot, or browning unevenly, stir in a tablespoon of water. Adjust
heat if onions are cooking too quickly or too slowly.)

fig. 1.2 sprinkling flour over

caramelized onions

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fig. 1.3 topping soup before broiling

FRENCH ONION SOUP

Make soup Sprinkle flour over onions and stir to combine fig. 1.2, then stir in
wine and Cognac. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook 2 minutes, then
stir in stock. Partially cover the pot and cook until flavors have melded, 20 to 25
minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, toast croutons Heat broiler. Spread bread slices on a baking

sheet and broil, turning once, until lightly toasted, 2 to 4 minutes (watch carefully
so they dont burn). Brush both sides with the melted butter.
Broil and serve Divide soup among eight flameproof crocks or bowls. Float

two croutons in each crock and sprinkle with cup cheese fig. 1.3. Broil until
cheese is melted and browned in spots. Serve immediately.