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FABRIC TESTING
Every supplier must conduct tests to show that all fabrics used in Tesco products are safe, and suitable for their intended end use. All testing must be performed by a nominated Tesco laboratory 1 accredited by a recognised National Accreditation Body. In the UK this is UKAS (United Kingdom Accreditation Service) www.ukas.com Outside of the UK only laboratories accredited by organisations that have multi-lateral agreements (MLAs), or International agreements (ILAC) with UKAS shall be permitted. (See Appendix M) Where supplier laboratories are used they should be accredited either by UKAS (or recognised equivalent), or Tesco recognises the LACE accreditation scheme for supplier laboratories/ dye houses; www.xreference.co.uk and the Lab Cert accreditation scheme (provided by MTS, contact +44 (0)113 248 8830, info@hstts.co.uk ). All accreditations must cover the scope of tests being conducted and calibration must be carried out regularly.
Trade Descriptions Act 1968. Sale of Goods Act 1979 as amended by The Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994. The Rag, Flock and Other Filling Regulations 1981. The Nightwear (Safety) Regulations 1985, The Nightwear (Safety) Regulations (Amendment) 1987. EN 14878: 2007 Textiles Burning behavior of childrens nightwear.
Tesco clothing testing must be carried out by Intertek or SGS. Certain supplier in house labs and specialist 3rd party labs may be used with the special permission of Tesco UK Fabric Technical Manager.
Standard codes of practice required by Tesco: BS 7907: 2007 Code of Practice for the design and manufacture of childrens clothing to promote mechanical safety. BS EN 14682: 2007 Safety of Childrens Clothing Cords and Drawstrings on Childrens clothing specifications. BS 3084:2006 Specification for slide fasteners. EN ISO 3758:2005 Textile Care code using symbols.
3. Performance Testing
3.1. All components and fabrics must be tested and approved prior to cutting. Any bulk fabric cutting carried out before receipt of test reports is at the risk of the supplier. 3.2. All laboratories used for testing must be ISO 17025 approved, for the tests performed, by UKAS or an internationally mutually recognised equivalent (See Appendix M). 3.3. It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all fabrics, components and trims are tested to, and meet the requirements of the Tesco Performance Standards. This should be discussed with the relevant Tesco Technical Manager at pre production stage. 3.4. Tests required are listed under Tesco Textile Performance Standards. 3.5. Tests must be relevant to care code proposed for garment. (See Tesco Textile Testing Manual Part Two Care Codes.) 3.6. The Tesco Technical Manager may request additional testing at any time. 3.7. Testing must be performed using the test methods described in the relevant testing performance standard. 3.8. Suppliers pay for all testing. 3.9. New fabrics will not be considered for use unless a base test report confirming compliance with the relevant Tesco Performance Standard has been submitted prior to the order being placed. 3.10. The fabric sent for testing must be dyed and finished as agreed with the Tesco Technical Manager (to be from bulk production).
3.11.1. Fabric for physical tests: 2m full width, not cut from piece ends 3.11.2. Fabric for stability and colourfastness: 1m of full width of each colour way or design. 3.11.3. If Appearance after wash and Durability tests are requested, a minimum of two samples of each colour way, taken from bulk production, must be submitted. 3.12. The following information must be sent to the laboratory with fabric / garments for testing: 3.12.1. The Tesco reference number / style number. 3.12.2. Batch code to be used on ALL styles that are produced from more than one batch of fabric. 3.12.3. The name of the retail customer i.e. Tesco CE or Tesco UK. 3.12.4. The 5 wash care symbols on the label plus any additional care instructions. (See Tesco Textile Testing manual Part Two- Care Codes.) 3.12.5. The test must be clearly identified that it is for Tesco. 3.12.6. Claimed fibre composition 3.12.7. The name of the fabric colour way (as used on the Tesco contract) 3.12.8. The type of garment to be made from the fabric. 3.12.9. The Tesco performance standard to be tested against (with notification if the garment being tested has contrast fabric/ trims)
Childrens (6 months up to 14 years) pyjamas where pyjamas do not meet the design requirements of EN14878 Childrens (3 months up to 13 years) nightdresses
Childrens (13 years) nightdresses Childrens (3 months up to 13 years) dressing gowns Childrens (13 years) dressing gowns Childrens (3 months up to 13 years) 100% Cotton Terry Towelling bathrobes Babies and childrens nightwear not listed above
5.1. Specifies the flammability performance requirements for Childrens nightwear throughout Europe, however in the UK the requirements will only apply where the levels of flammability performance specified are higher than those of the UK Nightwear Safety Regulations 5.2. Requirements are divided in to 3 classes. Class A Childrens Pyjamas that do not meet the design criteria Class B Childrens Pyjamas meeting the specified design criteria Class C Babies Nightwear
5.3. The test method for flammability requires base fabrics to be tested.
6. Colour Fastness
6.1. All colourfastness to washing tests must be tested at the wash temperature on the garment technical label with a minimum of 40C. Drying instructions as per care label. 6.2. Wet and dry rubbing to be tested both ways. Especially on: Pile fabrics: test face and back. Corduroy fabrics: test face and back. Pigment dyed fabrics: test face and back
6.3. Garments with contrast fabrics and trims must achieve the higher staining result of 4-5, as highlighted in test standards.
7.2. An iron can only be used where the inherent creasing of the sample would cause inaccurate measurements. Some fabrics (particularly if the care instructions on the technical label are iron whilst damp) will recover a significant amount of their shrinkage after ironing.
9. Motif/Print Durability
9.1. See Appendix C for test method. 9.2. When the laboratory perceives a borderline, or significant change, the sample must be returned to their client in order that it can be forwarded to the Tesco Technical Manager for a decision on its suitability for use (See Appendix C). The decision to approve a borderline case is the sole responsibility of Tesco Technical Manager, not the testing laboratory or supplier.
10. Pilling
10.1. Not applicable to 100% cotton, 100% wool, and fabrics constructed completely from continuous filament yarns. 10.2. Tests specimens to be washed by laboratory before testing.
BLEND
RICH
It is required that the named fibre is 55% or over by weight of the total content
CONTAINS WITH A TOUCH OF It is required that the named fibre is 10% or over by weight of the total content. The full fibre content indication must be given in close proximity
Table 1
Fibres that can be disregarded when determining the fibre content of a fabric
Inadvertent impurities arising during manufacture provided they do not exceed 2% by weight of the fabric (or 5% by weight of impurities if the yarn used to make the fabric was produced by carding the fibres before spinning) This allowance may be added to the 3% manufacturing tolerance between declared & actual content if the impurities are of the same chemical group as any of the fibres named on the fibre content label. Fibres which are intended purely to produce a decorative effect, and which are visible and distinct, provided they do not exceed 7% by weight of the product Up to 0.3% of fibrous impurities in a fibre described as 'fleece wool' or 'virgin wool'
15. Wadding
15.1. Wadding fibres must not percolate through either the lining or outer fabrics after the garment has undergone washing and Appearance after washing tests. A suitable scrim/ fabric coating/ heat seal must be agreed in advance with the Tesco Technical Manager. 15.2. The weight of the wadding must be agreed in advance with the Tesco Technical Manager.
17. Nickel
17.1. Any metallic item (eg. Rivet, buckle etc), that comes in to direct contact with the skin, must comply with the EU Nickel Directive. Refer to the Clothing Technical Manual.
23.3. The pH of the fabric must be balanced or neutral so that the fabric performance is not effected and so that there are no chemicals left in the fabric that could cause an irritation.
24. Zips
24.1. All zips must conform to BS3084: 2006, table 1. The performance code and test numbers required are dependent on end use, therefore these are specified by the Technical Manager.
28. Batches
28.1. All batches are to be tested for Dimensional stability. All Batches to have a test report confirming consistency across the batches to the original standard, reports can be from nominated test house or from in house laboratory.
32. pH value
32.1. The pH value of finished goods must fall within the maximum permitted range of 4.8 to 7.5 in accordance with BS EN 1413 : 1998 / ISO3071. 32.2. The pH value of leather goods must be a minimum of 3.2 and a test report must be available to substantiate this. This is due to the acidic nature of leather tanning.