Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Ciba SALCARE
Conditioning Polymers

Personal Care

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Contents

Conditioning Polymers SALCARE SC 10 and SALCARE SC 11 Chemistry Function Compatibility Features and Benefits SALCARE SC 30 Chemistry Function Compatibility Features and Benefits SALCARE SC 60 Chemistry Function Compatibility Features and Benefits Application Table Formulating Guidelines Base Formulations Safety

4 5 5 5 6 7 8 8 8 8 8 9 9 9 9 9 10 11 12 14

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

Conditioning Polymers

The SALCARE range of conditioning polymers are cationic and can be used in a variety of personal care products where a conditioning effect is required. SALCARE Conditioning Polymers work by means of electrostatic attraction. Hair has an overall slight negative charge due to the amino acid composition. Cationic polymers can adsorb onto the negative sites and form a film leaving the surface of the hair smooth and soft.

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

SALCARE SC10 and SALCARE SC11

SALCARE SC10 and SALCARE SC11 are cationic copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DADMAC) and acrylamide (ACM). SALCARE SC10 is the standard for efficient and cost effective conditioning, while SALCARE SC11 has been developed to give improved compatibility with anionic and amphoteric surfactants.

Chemistry
Product SALCARE SC10 INCI name Polyquaternium 7 Description SALCARE SC10 is a 50:50 copolymer of DADMAC:ACM, supplied as 8.5% aqueous solution preserved with 0.1 % Methylparaben and 0.02% Propylparaben SALCARE SC11 is a 30:70 copolymer of DADMAC: ACM, supplied as 8.5% aqueous solution preserved with 0.1 % Methylparaben and 0.02% Propylparaben

SALCARE SC11

Polyquaternium 7

Function
Conditioning efficacy can be demonstrated by the Rubine Dye Test, which shows the substantivity of cationic polymers to hair. Cationic polymer is applied to bleached blonde hair swatches, either as an aqueous solution or from a shampoo formulation, excess polymer is removed on rinsing and the swatches are then immersed in a dilute solution of Rubine Dye, which adsorbs onto cationic sites on the polymer backbone and therefore shows the presence of cationic polymer on the hair. SALCARE SC10 and SALCARE SC11 are both substantive to hair, and the intensity of the dye coloration (shown on the following page) demonstrates the efficiency of these products at low addition levels and in surfactant systems.

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

5g test product used for each swatch Blank = no polymer

The pictures demonstrate the substantivity of SALCARE SC10 and SALCARE SC11 on bleached blonde hair as 1% aqueous solutions, 0.1% aqueous solu-

tions and from the shampoo formulation shown below. These levels reflect the range of use levels recommended for the conditioning polymers.

Shampoo Formulation used for Rubine Dye Test

Trade name Deionized Water SALCARE SC10/ SALCARE SC11 Surfac LC Empigen BS/P Nipastat Sodium

INCI name Aqua Polyquaternium- 7 Sodium Laureth Sulphate Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Supplier

w/w % to 100

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 4.00 Surfachem Albright&Wilson 37.00 6.25 0.10

Sodium Methylparaben (and) Sodium Nipa Laboratories Ethylparaben (and) Sodium Butylparaben (and) Sodium Propylparaben Benzophenone-4 Citric Acid Sodium Chloride BASF

Uvinul MS40 Citric Acid Salt

0.15 to pH 6.5 2.00

Compatibility
The triangle compatibility diagrams shown on the following page reflect the increased compatibility difference of SALCARE SC10 and SALCARE SC11 with the anionic surfactant Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Equivalent concentrations of cationic polymer and anionic surfactants were used to construct these profiles. White areas represent areas of compatibility, blue areas represent areas of incompatibility.

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

SALCARE SC10

SLES

SALCARE SC11

SLES

H2O SLES = Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate

SC10

H2O

SC11

Features and Benefits of SALCARE SC10 and SC11

Features Liquid Product Film Forming Cationic Polymer Benefits SALCARE SC10 Ease of Use Ease of Wet and Dry Combing Reduction in Static Increased Creaminess of Lather in Shampoo Formulations No Build-up Effect DADMAC:ACM ratio 50:50 ratio Compatibility with Anionic and Amphoteric Surfactants Very Good Conditioning Benefits SALCARE SC11 Ease of Use Ease of Wet and Dry Combing Reduction in Static Increased Creaminess of Lather in Shampoo Formulations No Build-up Effect 30:70 ratio Increased Compatibility with Anionic and Amphoteric Surfactants Very Good Conditioning

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

SALCARE SC30
SALCARE SC30 is a cationic homopolymer of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DADMAC), and as such, is an efficient conditioner for use in after-wash applications.

Chemistry
Product SALCARE SC30 INCI name Polyquaternium 6 Description SALCARE SC30 is a DADMAC homopolymer, supplied as 40% aqueous solution. The high cationic content makes SALCARE SC30 self-preserving

Function
SALCARE SC30 is a cationic homopolymer, providing efficient conditioning at low use levels. It is ideally suited for incorporation into after-wash hair conditioners (typically emulsions) where the high level of cationic charge density allows the level of conditioning required for dry or damaged hair.

Compatibility
SALCARE SC30 is not recommended for use in conditioning shampoos based on anionic surfactants. The high level of anionic charge density leads to a reaction with the anionic charge of the surfactant and precipitates. However limited compatibility can be achieved with amphoteric surfactants.

Features and Benefits of SALCARE SC 30

Features Liquid Product Film Forming Cationic Polymer Cationic Homopolymer Benefits Ease of Use Ease of Wet and Dry Combing Reduction in Static Compatibility with High Levels of Alcohol Performance Conditioning, Ideal for Dry and Damaged Hair

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

SALCARE SC60
SALCARE SC60 is a solid grade conditioning polymer based on Acrylamidopropyl-trimonium Chloride (APTAC) and Acrylamide, which provides performance conditioning to formulations at low addition levels, making it ideal for use in ethnic hair care.

Chemistry
Product SALCARE SC60 INCI name Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/ Acrylamide Copolymer Description SALCARE SC60 is an APTAC:ACM copolymer, supplied as >95% active bead product. The physical form of SALCARE SC60 requires no preservation

Function
SALCARE SC60 is highly substantive and even at very low concentrations it provides very efficient conditioning effects. Due to this efficiency it is recommended for dry, damaged or ethnic hair care, where a high level of conditioning is required. SALCARE SC60 provides slip and lubricity to formulations, which makes it beside hair care products suitable for liquid syndet type products.

Compatibility
Clear conditioning shampoo formulations can be made containing SALCARE SC 60 at the recommended use level of 0.1% w/w and commonly used anionic and amphoteric surfactans.

Features and Benefits of SALCARE SC 60

Features Bead product Benefits Solid, without Dusting Highly Efficient at Low Use Concentrations Recommended Use Level 0.2% Ease of Wet and Dry Combing Reduction in Static Excellent Slip and Lubricity on Hair and Skin Ideal for Dry, Damaged and Difficult to Manage Hair

Film Forming Cationic Polymer APTAC: ACM Copolymer

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

Application Table
The table below just reflects a choice of typical applications for the SALCARE Conditioner products. Formulation examples of all applications are available upon request.

Application Hair Care 2-1 Shampoo Shower Gel Conditioner High Clarity Shampoo Cleansing Liquid Hand Soap Bath Gel Depilatory Cream Shaving Cream Skin Care Lotion Cream

SALCARE SC10

SALCARE SC11

SALCARE SC30

SALCARE SC60

10

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

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Formulating Guidelines
The SALCARE range of conditioning polymers are compatible with a wide range of commonly used cationic or nonionic ingredients, and show limited compatibility with anionic or amphoteric co-ingredients. When formulating emulsion products such as after-wash conditioners or skin creams, it is recommended that the SALCARE conditioning polymer be dispersed in the aqueous phase. The SALCARE range of conditioning polymers is not affected by moderate shear, such as high speed stirring or short periods of homogenization, but excessive shear conditions are to be avoided. When clear conditioning shampoo formulations are required and contain SALCARE SC10 or SALCARE SC11, haziness can be avoided by dispersing the cationic polymer in the water prior to addition of any anionic or amphoteric surfactants. If haziness remains a problem for a conditioning shampoo formulation containing SALCARE SC10, we recommend SALCARE SC11. SALCARE SC60 should be predispersed in some of the formulation water before adding to the formulation bulk. This prevents the formation of pockets of anionic/cationic precipitate which are difficult to redissolve.

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

11

Base Formulations
This formulation is for a medium active conditioning shampoo containing anionic and nonionic surfactants to give efficient cleansing. While the SALCARE SC11 gives good clarity and conditioning effects. Hydroxyethyl Cellulose provides viscosity for this formulation.

Conditioning Shampoo SC11-HC-SH-01

Trade name Supplier INCI name Aqua Polyquaternium-7 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Parfum CI 61570 Benzophenone-4 Sodium Methylparaben (and) Sodium Propylparaben (and) Sodium Ethylparaben (and) Sodium Butylparaben Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Citric Acid % to 100 2.00 22.00 10.00 0.10 0.0001 0.15 0.10

SALCARE SC11 Empicol LX28 Cetiol HE Fragrance Vibracolor Green AGR25 Uvinul MS40 Nipastat Sodium

Ciba Specialty Chemicals Albright and Wilson Henkel Care Chemicals Fragrance Oils International Ciba Specialty Chemicals BASF Nipa Laboratories

Natrosol 250HHR

Hercules

1.20 to pH 6.5

Method 1 Weigh Aqua into a clean dry beaker add Natrosol 250 HHR and warm to around 60C with constant stirring until fully hydrated. 2 Add SALCARE SC11, Vibracolor Green AGR 25, Uvinul MS 40 and Nipastat Sodium in turn, continuing to stir until the polymer is completely dispersed. 3 Add Empicol LX28 and Cetiol HE in turn, stirring between additions. 4 Add Fragrance at room temperature, and adjust pH with citric acid. Typical Properties Appearance: Clear Liquid Viscosity: 30006000 mPas pH: 6.57.0

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Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

The combination of SALCARE SC60 and SALCARE SC11 in this pearlized shampoo gives good combing and slip properties to dry and damaged hair.

Moisturizing Shampoo for Over-Worked Hair SC60-HC-SH-02

Trade name Supplier INCI name Aqua Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Lauramide DEA Propylene Glycol Stearate Glycerin Panthenol Polyquaternium-7 DMDM Hydantoin Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer Aqua Sodium Chloride Citric Acid CI 16185 Parfum % to 100 30.00 5.00 2.00 3.50 1.00 2.00 0.20 0.125 30.00 2.00 0.20 0.0001 0.20

Empicol LX28 Empilan LDE Pegosperse PMS d-Panthenol SALCARE SC11 Nipaguard DMDMH SALCARE SC60

Albright & Wilson Albright & Wilson Lonza Roche Ciba Specialty Chemicals Nipa Laboratories Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Salt (20% Solution) Puricolor Red ARE27 Honeydew Ciba Specialty Chemicals Fragrance Oils International

Method 1 Combine ingredients, Aqua to d-Panthenol and Puricolor Red ARE27, in a clean dry beaker and heat to 7075C with occasional stirring. 2 Cool to 50C and add SALCARE SC11 and Nipaguard DMDMH, stirring between additions. 3 In a separate beaker add SALCARE SC60 to 30 % of the amount of Aqua with rapid stirring, continuing to stir until homogeneous, then add to main batch. 4 Add Sodium Chloride solution, Honeydew and Citric Acid in turn, stirring between additions. Typical Properties Appearance: Pearlized Viscous Liquid Viscosity: 50008000 mPas pH: 6.06.5

Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

13

Safety
Studies on acute oral toxicity, acute dermal irritation/corrosion, acute eye irritation and bacterial reverse mutation (Ames test) were conducted in accordance with the Principles of Good Laboratory Practice (UK, OECD, USA [EPA-TSCA]), meeting the requirements of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals.

SALCARE Conditioner
Test Result SALCARE SC10 and SALCARE SC11* LD50 > 2000 mg/kg Very Slight Irritation Slight Irritation Not Mutagenic

SALCARE SC30

SALCARE SC60

Acute Oral Toxicity Acute Dermal Irritation/ Corrosion Acute eye irritation Mutagenicity/ Ames Test

LD50 > 2000 mg/kg Very Slight Irritation Irritant Effect Not Mutagenic

LD50 > 2000 mg/kg Minimally Irritant Non-Irritant Not Mutagenic

* SALCARE SC11 has not been tested on animals or humans, but is related to SALCARE SC10

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Ciba SALCARE Conditioning Polymers

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The information given in our circulars is based on the present state of our knowledge. It shows without liability on our part the uses to which our product can be applied.

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Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. Pub. No. CO.TB.0210.e.03 Edited in Switzerland in October 2002

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