36 Hours in Thessaloniki

Destination Trends |
By: Peter Minaki

Most travellers explore Athens and the Greek islands but few go off the beaten track to visit what many consider to be Greeces food capital. Athens may be the heart of Greece but Thessaloniki, a six-hour drive north of Athens, is its stomach! Begin the day by grabbing a koulouri, a sesame seed-coated bread ring resembling a thin bagel, from one of the street vendors before heading toward the White Tower the citys signature landmark, located on the harbour. The Lefkos Pirgos, as its known in Greek, was a prison where the Ottomans executed their prisoners. Thessaloniki was taken from the Turks in 1912 and the Greeks adopted the White Tower as a symbol of the city. The panoramic view from the top is not to be missed. Next, walk to the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, where Macedonian artifacts from the eras of Philip II and the better known Alexander the Great are proudly exhibited.

Easily found in the city centre are the Kapani and Modiano markets. Youll hear vendors cries as they tout their goods and as an honourary Greek, you will be encouraged to haggle and bargain for produce or examine the catch of the day. You will delight in the aroma of local cheeses, cured sausages and the exotic scent of spices wafting through the air, competing for your attention with the smell of roasting coffee beans. The neighbouring region of Halkidiki produces delicious salt-cured black olives, cracked green olives and olive oil that is too precious to be sold elsewhere. Bordering the market is the Serraikon Bougatsa caf, where you can take a break and enjoy a Greek coffee along with a bougatsa slice. A specialty of northern Greece, bougatsa consists of layers of buttered phyllo pastry, filled with anything from cheese and meat to chocolate or custard. The most popular is the krema (custard) thats cut into forkfuls and finished with a sprinkle of icing sugar and cinnamon perfect as a late-morning treat. Thessaloniki is a pedestrians city and Aristotle Square one of its most lively centres. Lined with cafs, this arcade is considered the citys main piazza for strolling and people-watching. Ask for directions to nearby Venizelos Street and youll reach the Bit Pazaar where most of the citys antique shops are located. The shops close at night but thats when the cafs, bars and tavernas come alive catering to students, artists and anyone on a budget looking for a good time. Ladadika (the former olive oil trading district) is a good bet for lunch. After years of neglect, Ladadika was revitalized through an influx of EU funds and became the it place for a decade. Although its now mostly a tourist haunt, some eateries like the Bakaliario tou Aristou remain popular with locals. This long-established family restaurant has been selling delicious battered and fried salt cod since 1910. Come early as seats fill up quickly. Thessaloniki is also known for its rich, syrupy desserts, and you can enjoy these at Hatzi, one of my favourite patisseries. Gaze into display cases lined with several kinds of baklava filled with an array of nuts soaked in honey and syrup, or behold the galaktoboureko a semolina-based custard sandwiched between layers of buttered phyllo and finished with syrup. Order the kazan dibi, which is sometimes called a Byzantine crme brule, a dessert made of a sugar crust topped with custard. At the Hatzi in the town of Paralia Nea Epivaton, youll see Thessaloniki from across the bay and be able to partake in the afternoon ritual of Greek coffee and sweets as the sun sets over Mount Olympus. For dinner, the Kourdisto Gourouni (the Wind-up Pig), located within sight of the Hagia Sophia Church, offers a selection of European beers plus a fine

Greek wine list that will enhance your mezedes (Greek tapas). These include local cheeses, seafood and vegetarian dishes made with in-house phyllo, like the wonderful kotipita filled with chicken and vegetables. As you savour your kotipita, take a moment to reflect on a city that allows you to time-travel from Alexander the Great through Hellenistic and Roman times, to Byzantine empire and Ottoman rule. Ancient ruins and untold stories lie beneath every step. And each kilometre will take you to another era, each step to another taste of this gastronomic mosaic.