Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
FIBER
A unit of matter characterized by Flexibility, Fineness and a high length to width ratio.
Natural Fiber
Natural Fiber
Fiber
Primary Properties
Length; length-width ratio Tenacity (strength) Flexibility (pliability) Acceptable extensibility for processing Cohesion Uniformity of properties
Secondary Properties
Physical shape (cross-section, surface contour, etc. Specific gravity (influence weight, cover, etc.) Moisture regain and moisture absorption (comfort, static electricity, etc.) Elastic character - tensile and compression Thermoplasticity (softening point and heat-set character) Dyeability Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, microorganisms, and environmental conditions Flammability Luster
9
Primary Features 4 2 2 1 4 4 2 3 3 0 4 4 2 1 4 4 4 4 4 4 0 4 4 2 3 2 4 4 4 4 0 3 2 2 4 4 4 4 4 4 2 3 4 4 3 4 4 0 3 4 4 4 4 4 0 3 Price Water Imbibition Elasticity Elongation Strength Length Fineness
2 2 2 2 0 4 4 4
4 4 4 4 2 2 0 0
4 4 4 4 2 2 0 0
Secondary Features 4 2 2 3 0 4 3 4 0 0 4 2 4 0 2 3 4 3 2 2 4 4 1 4 3 4 3 2 0 0 0 0 4 3 4 0 4 2 4 4 2 4 2 2 2 4 2 4 4 4 2 2 2 2 2 4 4 2 4 4 0 2 1 2 4 4 4 4 0 2 2 2
2 2 2 4 0 4 2 4
4 4 2 4 4 2 4 4
2 4 4 2 4 2 4 4
59 59 69 56 57 67 59 63 Grand Total
10
Aesthetic Apparance Light Stability Fatigue Resistance Flammability Softening Point Wicking Pilling Crease Recovery Crease Resistance Drape and Handle Bulking Power Laundering Static Dye Affinity Abrasion Resistance
11
13
14
16
Cotton
17
Cotton
18
Cotton: Advantages
Absorbent. Cool. Comfortable to wear. Durable. Economical. Does not melt.
19
Cotton: Limitations
Wrinkles unless treated. Susceptible to mildew and strong acids. May scorch.
20
Cotton
Cotton is hypoallergenic since it doesnt irritate sensitive skin or cause allergies Cottons softness makes it a preferred fabric for underwear and other garments worn next to the skin Cottons adaptability allows it to blend easily with most other fibres including synthetics such as polyester and lycra Cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to dye, making it very popular with fashion and homeware designers
21
Cotton
Cotton can be given a coating or a finish. For example, cotton used in fire fighting uniforms is coated and finished with Proban, a flame-retardant chemical treatment Durable press is a finishing treatment used in cotton garments to eliminate creasing and reduce the need to iron. It retains specific contours such as creases and pleats to be resistant to normal usage, washing or dry cleaning Cotton has a high absorbency rate and holds up to 27 times its own weight in water
22
Cotton
Cotton also becomes stronger when wet Cottons strength and absorbency levels make it an ideal fabric for medical and personal hygiene products such as bandages and swabs Terry cloth is a cotton fabric used to make common items such as towels. It can be safely washed in very hot water and with strong bleach and/or detergent Cotton keeps the body cool in summer and warm in winter because it is a good conductor of heat
23
Cotton
Cotton is often used in the manufacture of curtains, tents and tarpaulins as it is not easily damaged by sunlight Cotton breathes easily as a result of its unique fibre structure. This attribute makes cotton more comfortable to wear than artificial fibres unable to provide similar ventilation Unlike synthetic fibres, cotton is a natural product and contains no chemicals
24
Cotton Products
Almost all parts of the cotton plant are used in some way, including the cottonseed, lint (raw cotton fibre), stalk and hull (shell) Popular uses for cotton fibre include clothing apparel, home furnishings and industrial/medical products such as tents, bandages and cotton swabs Well known cotton fibre products include denim jeans, socks, towels, t-shirts, bed sheets and underwear Cotton fibre can be woven or knitted into fabrics such as velvet, corduroy, chambray, velour, jersey and flannel
25
Cotton Products
Linters are the very short fibres that remain on the cottonseed after ginning. Once removed and processed, linters are used to produce goods such as bandages, cotton buds, and x-rays The fibre from one 227 kg cotton bale can produce 215 pairs of jeans, 250 single bed sheets, 750 shirts, 1,200 tshirts, 2,100 pairs of boxer shorts, 3,000 nappies, 4,300 pairs of socks or 680,000 cotton balls
26
Flex / Linen
27
Linen: Advantages
Best wicking of natural fibers; therefore, cool to wear. Dries quickly. Natural, soft sheen. Strong and durable. Does not melt.
28
Linen: Limitations
Wrinkles badly unless treated. Susceptible to mildew and strong acids. Color frosts on creases. May be weakened with repeated creasing in the same place. May scorch.
29
Silk
30
Silk
31
Silk
32
Silk: Advantages
Luxurious. Lightweight. Dyes in beautiful, rich colors. Absorbent. Strong. Moderately wrinkle resistant. Resists mildew and moths. Does not melt.
33
Silk : Limitations
Weakened by sunlight, perspiration and chlorine bleach. Absorbs body oils and grease stains. Water spots. Yellows and fades with age. Subject to attack by carpet beetles unless treated. Affected by high temperatures. Loses strength when wet. Should be pressed with a press cloth. Color damaged by hair spray. Damaged by perfumes.
34
Wool
35
Wool
36
Wool: Advantages
Warm and comfortable to wear. Absorbent. Wrinkle resistant. Mold and shape easily when pressed. Water repellent. Flame resistant. Does not melt.
37
Wool: Limitations
Subject to attack by moths and carpet beetles unless treated. May shrink and felt when laundered unless blended or especially treated. Damaged by chlorine bleach. Damaged by dry heat. Loses strength when wet. Sensitive to alkaline agents. Should be pressed with a press cloth.
38
*Market share of man made fibers vs. natural fibers 1945 13% today 75+%
39
Melt Spinnig
Typical Melt Spun Fibers Nylon Polyester Polypropylene Disadvantages Separate drawing step (unless spin draw) Advantages High speed (275 to 1500 yddmin); (4000 yddmin spin draw) No solvents No purification problems
40
Melt Spinning
Melt Spinning simplest and economical melting the polymers molten polymer is extruded from spinneret ONLY limited to polymers which are stable to high temperatures. E.g., polyester, polyamides, polystryrene. etc
41
42
43
Dry Spinning
Typical Dry Spun Fibers Acetate Spandex Disadvantages Flammable solvent hazards Solvent recovery Slow (200 - 400 yd/min) Advantages Yarn does not require purification
44
45
46
Wet spinning
Typical Wet Spun Fibers Viscose Disadvantages Slow (70 - 150 yd/min) Washing to remove impurities Solvent and chemical recovery Advantages Large tows can be handled
47
48
Viscose
49
Viscose
50
Rayon: Advantages
Dyes easily. Versatile. Relatively inexpensive. Absorbent. Does not melt.
51
Rayon: Limitations
Wrinkles easily. Weaker when wet. Damaged by strong acids and mildew. May shrink or stretch unless treated. May scorch.
52
Nylon
53
Nylon: Advantages
Extremely strong. Extremely durable. Can be heat set to retain pleats. Wrinkle resistant. Resists mildew and insect damage. Does not burn easily. High elasticity. Very resistant to abrasion.
54
Nylon: Limitations
Builds up static electricity. Low moisture absorption. Grays and yellows with age and poor care. Picks up dye and soil in laundering. Absorbs and holds body oils and perspiration stains. Melts if too hot. Pills if spun.
55
Polyester
56
Polyester: Advantages
Wrinkle resistant. Retains heat-set pleats and creases. Superior wash-wear performance. Strong. Resists damage from abrasion, strong sunlight, weather conditions, moths, mildew and most strong chemicals.
57
Polyester: Limitations
Absorbs body oils. Accumulates static electricity. May pill and attract lint. Absorbs perspiration odor. Melts if too hot.
58
Spandex
59
Spandex: Advantages
Provides strength without weight. Resists perspiration, cosmetic oils and lotions. Has elasticity; great stretch and recovery.
60
Spandex: Limitations
Damaged by chlorine bleach. Absorbs little moisture. May yellow when exposed to light. Melts at relatively low heat.
61
Polypropylene
62
Fiber Strength
Fiber
Name
Natural Fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool Ma n-Ma de Fibe rs Acetate Acrylic Aramid (Filament) Aramid (Staple Fluorocarbon Glass Modacrylic Novaloid Nylon 6 (Filament) Nylon 6 (Staple) Nylon 66 (Filament) Nylon 66 (Staple) Nylon 66 HT Olefin Polyester (Filament) Polyester (Staple Polyester (Filament HT) Rayon Rayon HT Rayon HWM Rubber Saran Spandex Vinyon Kevlar Spectra Vectran HS
Wet
5.0 6.5 3.9 1.0
1.2-1.5 2.0-3.5 4.3-5.1 3.7-5.3 2.0 7.0 2.0-3.5 1.5-2.5 6.0-9.5 2.5 3.5-7.2 3.0-6.0 6.0-9.5 4.8 4.0-5.5 2.5-5.5 6.3-9.5 0.73-2.6 3.0-6.0 2.5-5.5 0.3 1.5 0.6-0.9 0.7-1.0 20.0 30-35 23.0
0.8-1.2 1.8-3.3 3.2-3.9 2.7-4.1 SAME SAME SAME 1.3-2.3 5.0-8.0 2.0 3.2-6.5 2.6-5.4 5.0-8.0 6.0 SAME SAME SAME 0.7-1.8 1.9-4.6 1.8-4.0 SAME SAME SAME SAME 18.0 SAME SAME
63
Specific Gravity
64
Thermal Properties
Fiber Melting Point
F
Natural Fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool Nonmelting Nonmelting Nonmelting Nonmelting
C
218 232 149 149
Man-made Fibers Acetate 446 Arnel Triacetate 575 Acrylic Aramid Doesn't melt: Glass Modacrylic 410
364 184 350 177 482 250 464 240 400-490 204-254 300-350 149-176 carbonizes above 800 F. 1400-3033 210 300 149 200-250 93-121
230 302
65
Thermal Properties
Fiber Softenting Melting Point Sticking Point
F
Novoloid Nylon 6 Nylon 66 Olefin Nonmelting 414 482 275
C
212 250 135
F
340 445 260 460 490 300 347 200 260
C
171 229 127 338 254 149 175 93 127
Polyester PET 480 249 Polyester PCDT 550 311 Rayon Nonmelting Saran 350 177 Spandex 446 230 Vinyon 285 140 Kevlar Nonmelting Spectra 285 140 Vectran 625 300 *Lowest setting on irons: 185-225 F.
66
Absorbency
67
Sunlight Resistance
Glass Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Flax Cotton Rayon Triacetate Acetate Olefin Nylon Wool Silk Kevlar Vectran
Excellent
To
Poor
68
70
71
72
Fiber Usage
Customer Term Comfort Textile Property
Moisture Character Flexibility Elasticity Thermal Character
Appearance Durability
Easy Care
Safety
73
74
75
76
77
78
79