Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
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lcsollrcr' iitl those tiri.r ilzrr.rt to takc a tip {ionr ouL Irrcnr:h sistcrs ancl not sacrificr comlbrt lbl stvlc- f)r'rc ol thc
shop's
liilc
lal.lulous b:rsic i-ricccs trouscrs. skilts. j;rclicLs, shilts llouncl which vou can
bliilcl an outfit. \vhcthcr lbi uolk or lirr lcistrlc.'I'l-ris spring/sr-rmmcr'. Ciornptoir rl, s (ill,rtrrrir't. rrill lrc [irr rr.sirtq,,rr ncutr:rl colouls ancl '{':rlsc t'irites' zrlong rr.itlr boick:r prints. Shapr:s *,ill ltc spiit bclu-ct'n tnilolccl silhoucrtcs ancl nrolc clcc onstlnctccl oncs.
Conrptoir" clcs (lotonnicr',s has uscd
rcai-iilir llo[h(]rs
:r.ncl ciaus^htcr-c
iu
it-s
xchl'rts firl mzrn\ \'eirrs. 'f his {Lrcus on thc mothr:r'lcllu-ig*htcr boncl has It:cl Lo a iirrli up rvith thc Iilcnch ci-ralitr
\{eclrcins clu \ Ionclc rrlridr dris )'car
rl-iLi
.\
chaliLr; callccl I.,iron ancl liirturing a linc ch'al ing of- a dog, u'ill bc ar':rilarl.rlr,' 1i'oru 20rir .\plil to il lst r\I:n: ,'Uso- C.ior-r-rptoir dcs (lotonnici's is lookin-- lor nerv r.r-ro{hcr :incl cl:rrrg^lrtci' combos to lcatrn'tr
-i'hclc
is
Balmoral dress:
Bering belt:
t137
ir thc \lalrlcbon('
stolc
ol1
f51
J158
Bever/y shoes:
PHRFFT STAffiT
[]rc Lonr Strrlicr' (.r,llccriorr
Space NK I 83a Marylebone High Street O2O7 486 8791 I www.spacenk.co.uk
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ri
tltc irtst lanqcs. cont:iining thc i:rrsl irrg-rcclie nts. cirn provokc an Lrnlolcsccn lcaction in sornc skin"
is.
lnorllhs. E\'c [,om plocllrcts ciln lto\\: bc fbuncl in a laurgt' ol luxulv sltas ancl shops alriuncl tl-rc torlcl.
incluclins thc blirncl'r ol SP:rcc NI{ on Ilalrlclronc llieh Strcet.
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introclLrction to thc lanq-c. Thc chic" ltitc tin contains tl,o :;nrirll pots ol livc Lonr's lcgcnclalv cleanser', along rrith onc pot oflnoistr.lriscr'. onc o1- hcl lescut' nursk :rnd hcr signatulc lnuslin
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l--.r.-)1:,1
on clczrnscr ancl lacc creanr. ;\1iL'r' all. trrr-r havc no lc:rson to knorv
FUMHIV &frfuTEffi
Filma Belt
Paul & Joe I 38 Marylebone High Street O2O 74AG 3930 I www.paulandjoe.coJm
r-'lLs
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availablc in :r sclcction ol- r"rcutr':rl coloLrrs zrncl can. tirclclblc. bc rvon.r uith most olhcl colours. r\lthor,rgh I.rcut|al, thc bch is r-cscuecl [lonr bcc-on"rinq boling bl tirc ovcrsizeci bu1tcll]r. orlr?lmcl]t at thc lront"
'l-his buttcrflr- illso mcalis that thc bclt kccps its shapc. r'callr. i'rc\;in-to clcfiuc thc rv;rist. -fhc itt lt buckles ull aI tlle llick" -fhc strbtlc, re.iined clcsign ot' thr: lxrttcrf'lr is such that the bclt is sar-cd h'om beina cxcllrsile lr 'litt|:-gillr.' urcl can bc l.orn lrr 1\'o1]ren oI nranv di{lclcnt ascs. 'l'hc ,r]ri Trrlrrr'lt :rdegr is tr rr, '
cxpcnsirr'
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'I'his llx'lL
ii,:r 1,.:l l-r: rr,'r,i:
;11i ()Ltt[11.
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is
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lcli'il
fi
is
palts. f196
must-rrisit
'f l'ris issr-rc's leatur-ccl bcalrfl ' proch-ic1 is r.ro csccption. 'l'l-rc l:rtcsl nclclitiol tr-r Avccla's successlui Outel Pc:rcc rangc.
this ct.roling mask is clcsiqrreci as a oncca-u,eek trc.itmcnl to hclp soothe skin reclncss ancl irritation, olten associirLecl u.ith selLsitivc .rcne-pl'o1rc skin, lrut zrlso a prodr,rct ol thc halsh rr.intcr-l'incl. That ma-kcs dris a great procluct fi-rr this time of year. Packccl u'itl'r the licshest.
salon. Paltnerecl
uith
l'ith
a cornplchensive
oPa'effi;G#;;trt84i
2t
tidult
les
ftWM
4.2
tl w1s7,.1iqfig5 rsl Q
thc conrpanr"s plant-basecl hair c:rre. skirr c;rle aucl urake-lqr proclucts. As er raug*c. :\'eclzr has long been lcror.r n lbr its cmphirsis on grrocl clualilv nzrtulalh base d pr-oclucts. proclr-rced u.ith a kcen ethical ;nyarcness. \\ihcn \ou purchase an i\l'ccla item. von lqrorv
ol
usecl
that all steps o{'its ploduction, li'om ingleclielt sourcinq to nanufhcture to packaeing, h;l.c bcen carriccl out to ecologicall-v au':l'c stanclalcls.
on its orvn or, most cffbctivelt, as par"t o1- a leo^ime of' Outcl Peace proclucts. \\rho l,oulchr't $'an1 bettel' skini)
t25
WE'RE
JANfiNru
Pr-rech
istv ilol)
err.rt
Li shorrlcl
li)r'
Irrr
slr,1,1lt
toolccl lcatl-rer' :tfc s0lnc of its nrr.rlc clistingr,rishing lcatnres. although thc clcsig^t'rCIs arc
:rlrva\.s couriug
rup
ol
tht, r-rrclinalr,.
If
vou
clon't n'ant to bur a hanclbag nhic:h vou iirc eoiuq t{) src on 20 crthcr ;rct-rpic cach clrn. thor look no iirrtlrt,rr'. 1'hc bouticluc st.{lcks a particulalh inrplcssivc sr,'lection ol'.]zrr-nin Puccli bzrg-s. such a.s this onc Holcvtr'. thc-r, on.l1'stoc'k a r,cr1 lirnitccl rrunrbcr ol' t-ar-h clcsiqr'. sonrctir-nes onlv onc. so it is ail'avs \rofth q-oinq- in ancl chcckinq oLlt thc cllir'e]rt sr:lcclion. .Jarriin Pueclr is :i Frcncl'r lzrl.rcl q,arrcrlr.rccl lrrr its t:n-rbcllishrcl ancl r,]iiirrr-si,i ail h an ci b :rgs. li: aclins an cl
clcsigns. Each
b:rg* is
crquisitcll
bag*s
can rnzrkc a
l'ith
r:hecr'{ ul,
, ('illl)lfrlrr'r rlilr V lirtirtq..'l-lti. rtt,,,tti 1hat, as l'cll irs bcing bcautilul, i:ach lrag is sulplisirrglr sturdv.J:unin PLrech
t389
ur):
ryri4 g" 9f
'
f ash
iona b Ie is also a
stiqm:i attached to
buf ing second hzurci cloihes. Not zrtrv tnore.
street lashioll indtlsrr-v has crcated a level of hornogencitv rvhich is bceinning to blced illto some scctors
o1'
particularlv hieh, and r'ou evcn stancl a good chance ol finditg ne\icr-\{orn
clesigrrel names at vasdv recluced prices. Suille(irttr's tltc itcrrts har ctt'l , r'ett l'racl the store labels removccl.
non' fbrv tr-ue alternatives lbr those n4ro u'ant to be a bit morc irldiviclual
-fherc
rlolk r'ttt:ritts morc distirrctivc. )oLr can customise volrr o\,vl"I clothes,
or ),ou can go vintaee. Thc standard o1' clothing in thc scconcl hlrrd sho1.,s itt tlri:;Lrt'rt is
are scveral exccllent charitv shops irr \,Iarv1ebone, as rvell as zr dcsigner resale shop - Catrvalk on Blarrdlord Stleet ' and thc rvceklv Callbagc-.
& Flocks
n-rarket.
ol
zrbating Todar"s
into rhc sccond ltatttl tnittkcr tltct c :rrc 'ir kel' mles rvhich 1'on lnust rememl)er:
,r'ou zrre goinq 1cl take a fbrav
Il
This is;r kcv qr-restiorr to ask,vor-rr-st:1['l-here's as prict iittle point bu-vine seioncl hand somcthinq l,hicll voLt ilr( ttevet'g,,itlg to 1\-c:t1'. urs thet-e is iluving it lr-rll chtal: thal it r-callv clor:str't mattcr" Thc o'11, esce'tion ro this r.6lc is if sorr-rcthins is so unbelievabll,
can be a Palticuliirh'good t't:sottrct: can brig-l-rtcn r-ql or"r:otrlpietclv change zin ontliL' for.bclts. bags. sciril.cs ancl.jcu,ellc1.r,- These iterns
zrncl scconcl hzrr-rc1 sl'rop,s
J
1
o
6
Ilspect seams, t-ollars and unclcrzu'nrs in p;u-ticulzrr. Takc notc of an1'pilling orr
sa1e.
llcfcrlc in o,r.ar-czr *.ill ogi:i anrthing- ttraL is ioo pool clLrzilirv to be solcl. Lzrrgel cl-ralitv shops also clean clothi-r-re
llathcr'. lct yotu'sclf be open to u,hatertr ther-c is. I{c--uiar' bcc,..,rc stock ran chartgc ver-v qr-ricklv :rncl is alrvavs l'ariccl. trips ars Jro ..,,,or,rr-r'r.,i.lecl buy, espc.ci;',11r' ,.r'ith clothinc :rncl lootlear'. \itu c:rtlnoi l-tltLtt'tr iltrtrls lo secotrcl hand
urollcl iracli.
\,\'hcner.r:r'\'our ualch'olrt: rrcr:cls t'cll'cshing urake srtr('\!u titlic I'ottt'tttln'rrrlccl
n the last issue, this column discussed how to exploit vintage and second-hand clorhing as a means ol gaining a more indir.'idual look in a
homogenised fashion market. Vintage
two of London's best resources for customisation: W Rouleaux and The Button Queen. W Rouleau-x is a
treasure-trove of ribbons, tassels, lace, brocade and much more while The
and second-hand clothes are not the only r,vay of producing a more individual effect. You can always customise vour clothes. Ivlarylebone is v-ery lucky to have
Button Queen has an unrivalled raage o{ well, buttons. You can do an aw{ul lot with a humble button, and The Button Queen is certainly the place to iook for
unusual examples. Customisation does not, ol course,
have to be limited to trim. You can alter the length of a garment, remove the sleeves, dye it or use fabric. You don't necessarily have to be a whiz rvith a sewing machine either. There are lots of little tricks which can produce maximum effect with minimum eflort. Nonetheless, if this is still all sounding a little too much like a textiles lesson, then just follow these si,r simple tips:
Not lbr nothing ctid the legendary Diana Vreeland aclvise that belbre you learre the house you should look in the mirror ancl *ren take one item awali Excess does nothing lor a garment or an oulfit. \4ake sure that ),-our customisation is not outialdish. It u'ill be a"1l the more ellbctive for it.
2
J
1
5
Change Say 1'or-r have bought a simple plain carcligan from a high street store. The buttons are the same colour as the garment. \{ell, changing the buttons is a simple but elGctive way of mfir-rg the cardigan unique. One trick r'vith a black or narl' cardigan is to bu,v buttons of all diferent colours, one yellow, one red, one green etc. The ellect is r,'ery Sonia Rykiel. And u,hat's more, you don't need any specialist equipment to ser+, on a button.
as my textiles teacher usecl to say This is very r-rseful advice. Never cut something until yoll are absolutely sure that 1'ou are cutling the correct amount or that,vou are cutting in dre correct place. Once somedring has been cut, it can't be put back tosether.
Flirt with current trends. If there Think hard. If the garment is something
is a major lbshion trencl * sa)' neon - lvhich lou are slightly intimidated by, add a subtle touch of it to a garment through vour clrstomisation rvithout going over the top.
rvhich you hope to keep for years, think hard before making any changes. Nlake sure your amendments are timeless and something you truly liIe.
shor-cs.
Go Short. The simplest customisation b)'far is to clrt olf lour old pair of jeans or trousers to make a pair of Il )ou are rea11y adventruous) \ioll can her-n them. If not, the fi'ayed look can sometitnes lvork.Just make
length. Ir!}
t's latc
i\pr'il
ar-rd
I'm at 2r castillg
Cornptoir
cles
lbl
n-roclcls at the
Hie'h Strcct. But this is no ordinary castins. It's lookine lor a local mother ancl claugl'rtcr dlto to takc part in dre alrtumn/u:intcr'08 adr,errising
campaign lor the Irench lashion chain. Similar castings are being held at Comptoir clcs Cotonnicrs shops arouncl the worlcl. Each searsor"r. 12 pails are sclcctccl fi:om :rround 10,000 applications. 'l'herc are certainll, no lack o{- intcrcstcd pairs attending the X{alvlcl;one casting -. 30 mothcls and dauglrter turn Llp on the night ancl onlinc applicalions are zrllor,r,ccl fcl- somc rirrc altcr-rvalds. In additior-i to being Ib:rtr.rrccl in the adr'eltisine matcrial, thc successhrl pair r.r'ill also llc Ibatr,Lred in
the brancl's Paris {irshion shor.r' in.]urrc:
ancl rvill
for there to be a spark betlvccn thern,' savs trlariarrrrc Romtst;rin. rnarraging dilector ol the brand. Cor"nptoil des Cotonniels is keen to promote this maternal bond ancl it is proud ol rlrc lact tlret thc br';rnd inrnqc ir rror cn-rbodied by thc sanrc olcl profession:rl n-rodels bnt r:rthcr l.r,v its orvn customers. "lhe il'Iarylebonc casting stzrrts at 5pln irnd thele are soon no shortagt:
N,Ieh.yn Vincent Photographr., is on hand to take the test shots arrcl quickly puts the pairs at easc as the,v pose lbr a ILr'v [i-ames. A special I'eatr-u'c of thc castilrg^ is that every pair l'ill havc ll)c opl)()r'tr-ulitV to Ialc| huv e prinr of thc photo as a keepsakc. So cven
thcv rlnrr't r,r'in rirc t orlpcririnn. rlro''ll stiU lrin c prool ol rlrcir nrolncur in the spotliglrt. Ihe castinp alsc)
proviclcs cverr.'body rvidt
et rcall,v good o1:portnnitv to brorvscr the rails. 'Ihc rurakcslrifi rnoclcls an' soon trvirrq on clotl'rcs ancl makirrg pur-chases.
il
of
the schor-rl rnn home to take thcir chanccs in fi-ont ol thc camcra. The atmospl.rcrc is Iirn ancl light. '\{'e\'c most
ol
THE COMPANY IS PROUD TO BE REPRESENTED BY ITS OWN CUSTOMERS RATHER THAN MODELS
ncvcr donc ant'thinq likc this beflore, bLrt it lcallv has bcen cnjovablc.' says Jarrc Roy u'ho h:rs elttullclccl rvidr hcr'
Dauqhtcrs langc Ii'on-l toclcllcrs to \\/omcn in thcir eallv thirtics. '1'his is in keeltine r'r'ith the ethos ol- the ltrancl, rvlrich lrrs li'atrncd thlcc gcrrcletions irr ils advcrtisements in the past. \\re'll harr to u'ait until latcr in thc r,c:u'to sec il one of t-hc \'Iaq'lcbone moLhcL ;r.trcl tl:rnghtcr drros rr'ill r'( plcscitl Lorrclon in ncst
scason's ach.ertisin-* campzrigrr. www.meresetfi les.com
I
\\Ihy mothcl ancl clauqhter cluos? For tcn vcars now the compzrnv hzrs ris,'tl rn,rrlrr'r'lrrrl tlau,lirrcl p:rir': in its a.dvcrtising c:arl:paiens and promotion:r'l mzrtclierl, altcl this has bccome an easill iclcntifial;lc I'e:rture of tlie blancl. "l'hc irnportant thing- is for mr.rthcls ancl d;rr-rgh'terc lo {.ook t,otarllr, flatrua]. and
'fhc Lk;mptoir
arrcl Camillzr.
l{J
1i'om